RA64 Celica build

[corax]

so if you were to get a 3rd gen ('81-'85) Celica, would you opt for a Liftback . . .
http://www.dragtimes.com/images/4649-1985-Toyota-Celica.jpg

. . . or notchback, and why?
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d0/Toyota_Celica_GT-S_coupe.jpg

I imagine the liftback is easier to get a cage into and it's easier to just toss cargo in the back. The notchback has history as being Toyota's choice (http://www.groupbrally.com/toyota.shtml) for rally duty back in the day and separates cargo from the passenger compartment.

I might just be day dreaming (or not), but I've had an RA65 Celica on my short list for long enough that I might give some serious consideration to the right one if I can find it (cheap, needs work, body straight)

[04 Rocko Taco]

I voted liftback because I think it is a cooler looking car. Also I think it would make a super cool car to make a sleeper out of. cage it and mod the heck out of the engine... niiiiice.

[DHC6twinotter]

I vote for liftback. Better looking car, IMHO. I do like those split 4 spoke rims on the notchback though.

[corax]

cage it and mod the heck out of the engine


That's what I'm kinda thinking - slow build while keeping an eye on the rulebook. Keep the 4 cylinder so it doesn't get pushed into an "open" class, seam weld the shell and try to keep it as light as possible (the liftback is only 30 lbs heavier). Ultimately it'll probably come down to what body style is available - after the AE86 Corolla, these seem to get beaten on and chopped up fairly harshly

[Seanz0rz]

i voted liftback and here is why:

i have always wanted to love the notch. i see them around town or in a junkyard and i really WANT to like it. but then i look at that trunk, and that C pillar that resembles a fox body mustang, and it just reminds me of that late 70-80's uglyness that everything had.

for some reason, the liftback was spared the ugly rear deck with its weird trunk creases. to me, the notchback looks pure post-oil-embargo 1970's, where cars were producing half the horse power, and were ugly. the liftback somehow looks much more 1980's cocaine dealer, which is much, much cooler.

either would be a blast, but i don't think i've ever seen a clean example of that car, unmolested by JCwhitney.

[paddlenbike]

I say whichever you can find for the right price and condition. Or get a 2nd gen Supra with the nice 5M-GE inline-6. :) Same car as the liftback Celica but the Supra has IRS and the nice engine.

[Obi..]

Lift back, period. Bigger version of the Hachi Roku IMHO and handled way better than my 2nd-Gen 1980. Notchbacks are sweet, stylish no, Just remember like the 2nd-Gens, that added weight is the same as with a truck versus a 4Runner, when you break the backside loose, you better be able to countersteer the thing and quick.

Market rate on fixer-uppers is up there though, easily $6,000-$10,000. I looked over a huge radius and got only 3 nationally.

Post up what you find and what sources you're using in your search b/c I am shopping again for a Cressida or Corolla and have come across a few of those here.

Watch the classifieds in T.O.R.C.: http://toyotacluborg.proboards.com/index.cgi? as well as H/R: http://hachiroku.net/forums/ and I'll call some friends to help look if you want me to.

[Obi..]

:) Off to play some Gran Tourismo.
http://assets.pakwheels.com/forums/2010/attachments/Cool---Classic-Cars---Latest/76484-gran-turismo2-on-pc--celica3-gt-88.jpg

[corax]

I dig the '84/'85 Supra, and love me some inline 6 engines, but if I decide to rallycross the thing later, the Supra's 5MGE would bump up into a class I don't want to be in. Whereas I know I can build a screaming quick 22RE.



Market rate on fixer-uppers is up there though, easily $6,000-$10,000. I looked over a huge radius and got only 3 nationally.

Post up what you find and what sources you're using in your search b/c I am shopping again for a Cressida or Corolla and have come across a few of those here.



I found a notchback with a blown headgasket for $400 about 3 hrs from me & a few liftbacks (running, some rust) for less than $2k within a 2 hr drive. My main resource has been the statewide craigslist search engine (http://www.statewidelist.com/) and specific search terms (i.e. 1985 Celica).

This is pretty much the main reason I'm looking at the notchback, I haven't seen any broken / non-running liftbacks yet
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2058/2156005915_a462021bf3.jpg

[YotaFun]

That is one sick looking car, I saw a notchback on craigslist around here recently in red.

It wasn't in too bad of shape either

[corax]

Here's a clean one from the Oregon Trail Rally, this was stage 6 "Ketchum"
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Rally%202012%20OTR/th_100_4912.jpg (http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Rally%202012%20OTR/?action=view&current=100_4912.mp4)

Just got back from an awesome weekend sweeping, still have to go through all the pics/video and decide what's worth keeping - I'll post some up when I get a chance.

[corax]

maybe tomorrow this beauty will be mine :hillbill:

"have title will not start not runnnig car died needs to be gone"
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/5L85K35J43E73F13H9c71309c745eb2431525.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/5N65Ka5Mf3E63I43J9c71c5943258845c148a.jpg

(love the Saab grill zip-tied in, might keep that for awhile if I get it)

[Seanz0rz]

wow Keith, if you buy that, you will have all the respect i could possibly muster. sure you wouldnt rather have a squareback? i got one ill sell you real cheap!

[corax]

It'd be a waste to take a squareback and thrash it around a rallycross course. This, on the other hand, is rough enough that I won't feel bad if I twist it up a bit.

[YotaFun]

Let the project begin!

[Obi..]

It'd be a waste to take a squareback and thrash it around a rallycross course. This, on the other hand, is rough enough that I won't feel bad if I twist it up a bit.


Like the saying goes...

"Cage and Rage!". Cage the sucker and hammer on it like no tomorrow. :D

[corax]

mine

https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/406167_3626766980943_1776253072_n.jpg

[YotaFun]

I just saw facebook and figured you updated this, ooo can't wait to see what goes on!

[04 Rocko Taco]

DEFINITELY keeping an eye on this. Congrats Keith!

[corax]

first thing's first - it was at the pressure washer within 10 minutes of leaving dude's house. Then I spent the latter half of this day vacuuming out the interior and trunk. The PO cut the rear half of the headliner out because he said some rats got into it + the thing looks like it was infested with spiders at some point. Now it's to the point where I'm not afraid to sit in the driver's seat (with a cover on it so the duct tape doesn't stick to my legs), but the passenger seat still needs to get pressure washed. This is where I think I'm going to be drawing some inspiration from, but without as much lift -> JRally's Celica (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/39512-New-adventure-Toy%28ota%29-in-AZ)

In particular, I like the non-flip-up headlights (partly because the ones on mine don't work & cost bank to replace + it's different)
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii232/jrally/GlossGrille.jpg

And I'm pretty sure I'm going to copy his rear roll bar at some point. I don't think there's enough room to safely extend it forward without risking cranial injury in an accident (not much headroom at all).
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii232/jrally/ChocolateCage.jpg

I'll start a separate thread once I get the engine running and start on. The first month or so is probably just going to be maintenance and getting it dependable, though there is a rallycross in 2 weeks if I can get it ready ;)

[YotaFun]

You sure the motors aren't just a little rusted up? some cleaning and some lube good to go?

This is going to be an awesome build up

[DHC6twinotter]

Looks awesome, Keith! I'll be watching this for sure!

[04 Rocko Taco]

What runs right under the seats? I know you need clearance, but, depending on how you wanted to go, you could recess a bit in the floor, I mean 3-4" and basically make a sunken bucket to mount the seats in, and that would give you room to finish out a cage.

[corax]

Avi, I'll probably take the headlight motors apart and fix them for now. I read that the biggest thing that fails is the limit switches (work the same as the e-locker limit switches). If/when I decide to ditch the wedge front end I can at least sell them to recoup a bit.

Chris, I don't think there's anything under the seat really. I know there's not any room between the seat and the floor boards, but I don't want to reduce the limited ground clearance I have either. If I can find one cheap I may try to pick up a fixed back (non-reclining) seat and hard mount it. That way I can lose the seat track and gain that bit of space back.

I diagnosed the no-start 2 days ago. I don't have any spark and the ignition coil gets hot within a minute of two of turning the key on - the ignitor is shorted which keeps current flowing through the coil and killing it. So I'm hoping to get a coil & ignitor from one of the local Pick-N-Pulls this weekend (along with a hood and grill, the hood on there now is bent a bit & may get hacked up to make a fill plate for the moon roof that I want to remove). Yesterday I stopped at one of the other local yards and made my first score, a 1st gen MR2 wing

edit: here's my first junkyard score already mounted
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/396590_3640853973109_320522425_n.jpg
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/255230_3640854413120_1078890915_n.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

looking forward to seeing it progress. btw, i LOVE the wheels! 80's toyota wheels are the best!

[corax]

It has the 80's style fantabulous Supra wheels on the rear and some generic American Racing wheels on the front. One thing I just recently learned is that it might be difficult to get rims for this. It uses an 8mm offset wheel which isn't very common, the bolt pattern is a standard 4x114.3 though I might luck out.

Took another junkyard run today. Still didn't find an ignitor & coil, so it's still not running. I did manage to mount the spoiler though (see post #23) and put a straight hood and the proper grill on.

Before:
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548053_3640853013085_1074731331_n.jpg

After (still deciding on which hood vent style I want to go with):
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/255210_3640853413095_247371289_n.jpg

[Obi..]

^Unless I'm mistaken that looks like the OE blue under the spray painted hood? Hit it with some WD-40 and see if it's a scuff and spray or a lazy spray. If it's a lazy spray you could bring the color back out.

Hit up http://toyotacluborg.proboards.com/ to shop for some rims. I'll ask around here for ya too. *Don't run standard sized tires on it, p-metrics only, unless you do lift it. I had issues with tire scrub a few times.

[corax]

http://www.deadpixelstudios.co/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/its-alive.jpg

IT'S ALIVE!
after sitting since '07 it started on the 2nd crank and settled into a nice idle.
now I just have to tow it to work to drain all the fluids, mount some new rubber, and maybe figure out why the headlights don't work

[Obi..]

I got two parts sources out here, let us know man. The wife said it needs a racing stripe on the hood or a huge whip antennae!

[corax]

We'll see. I have a couple ideas for paint that I'm mulling around in my noggin' - the obvious one would be from post #8 in this thread

[corax]

I took it to work last weekend to start on getting it road ready. Here's the list so far:
- rear diff fluid change
- transmission fluid change
- flush engine oil & changed twice
- flush cooling system and fill with Red Long Life Coolant
- new brass battery terminals
- NGK G Power Platinum spark plugs and NGK wires
- brake fluid flush (looked like apple cider)
- new Bosch wiper blades
- throttle body cleaned
- cleaned rear drums & lubed contact points
- lightly resurfaced the front rotors & lubed caliper slide pins
- "fix" the passenger door latch (http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=24853.msg384593) so it won't unlock when closing the door without holding the handle up
- major engine degrease (the pressure washer at work is good enough that it also started taking the flat black off the JY hood)
I also found out the oil pan is so dented up that it takes 1 quart less than it should to fill & the drain plug is about 3" higher than the bottom of the pan so I can't get all the oil out (already have an idea for a guard to prevent that in the future).

One of the last things I checked before I had to leave was ignition timing. This is where it got weird as it seemed to drive decent otherwise. The distributor was set to fully advanced and the timing light showed it to have 45 degrees advance at idle (with the check connector jumped). I didn't even know an engine could run with that much advance at idle. When I tried to set it to 5 degrees it would run like dog poo and I couldn't get the idle speed to come up with the idle air screw on the throttle body. Also at 5 degrees the distributor was near the end of its range (fully retarded in the bolt slot). I think I have it figured out though, it seems the outer ring of the pulley has slipped relative to the crank which is why the timing seems so far off.

Between last weekend and today I picked up most of my junkyard list (still need seats). Next weekend's list when I tow dolly it back to the shop again goes something like this:
- oil pan & pickup
- cut and weld in a new radiator core support
- new radiator that I scored from the JY (has a lifetime warrant sticker on it :))
- crank pulley
- valve cover gasket & pcv valve (to replace the giant mound of red RTV the PO made around the PCV)
- exhaust gasket after I thread repair one of the holes for a missing exhaust stud

And I also have a spare metal moonroof panel which will get welded in when I eventually remove the moonroof. For that I'm thinking many very small tack welds to prevent warping the mostly flat roof with fiberglass strand body filler to seal it up and keep water out of the interior. I still need to figure out what to do for roof bracing since there are none - the moon roof itself is the roof bracing. Right now my best idea is double wide shelf track with the open end facing up (for safety) with one piece running straight down the middle and another running side-to-side behind the front seats. My thought is to use bare metal shelf track, bent it to contour and tack weld it to the perimeter roof frame. Whatever I use for bracing will also get bonded or glued to the roof panel.
http://s7.cdn.hardwareandtools.net/is/image/HardwareandTools/075381028011?wid=225&hei=225

[Obi..]

*Bracing vs. punching 4 holes and doing an inner-outer-exo-cage? Not saying entirely exo-ing it, but you could always go through the far roof corners and rock the upper bars on the outside. Maybe I'm over-thinking here.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_izn9zMxjKpw/S4sjvqzxqPI/AAAAAAAAEFg/sQ1_WkKmKcg/DSCN0719.JPG

[corax]

The bracing is to keep a large span of otherwise unsupported sheet metal from vibrating and offer a little bit of support. The roof itself is a perimeter frame design with nothing inside the edges due to the considerable structure of the moonroof (which is glued to the roof panel & bolted to the sides).

After a bit of searching it turns out that all I have to do is find a MkII Supra or 3rd gen Celica without a sunroof. I can unbolt the bracing from there and swap it right in. I might also try measuring an old Cressida or similar next time I make a JY run and see what I can adapt. For now, I have plenty to keep me occupied otherwise. BTW, I measured it & taking the moonroof out will gain me just over 1" of headroom.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/roofpanel01.jpg

[Obi..]

Got it. FWIW I fixed the wording errors on my post above, stupid auto-correct went haywire.

Go for the headroom if you need it. I'll see if I can find a pic of the autocross cage design I had in mind. It was made to exceed their specs and even met the rally and NHRA rulebook(s).

[strykersd]

- "fix" the passenger door latch (http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=24853.msg384593) so it won't unlock when closing the door without holding the handle up


Great idea! I'll have to try that on my 4runner!

[corax]

- "fix" the passenger door latch (http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=24853.msg384593) so it won't unlock when closing the door without holding the handle up


Great idea! I'll have to try that on my 4runner!


It'll work, the latch may not look exactly the same, but I did that mod to my 4runner when I first got it and to my pickup before that. Once you have it apart, trip the latch as if you're closing the door with it locked and then unlocked and you should see what you need to do.

[corax]

Still working on it, and after spending 2 hours sitting at the DMV yesterday it's finally street legal :clap:

I had some trouble setting ignition timing. It didn't make sense that it would idle nicely when my timing light showed it to be at 45 degrees BTDC. This is what I found, the crank pulley (and timing marks) weren't really accurate anymore. I got a new (used) crank pulley, filled the wallowed-out keyway with JBWeld, used a dial indicator on cyl 1 to find true TDC and slid the pulley on. I turned the pulley till the tdc mark lined up and zipped the bolt down with my impact.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/s720x720/564505_3720130394970_6761584_n.jpg

I could have also done it this way (1.5" vacuum drop will put it right at 5 degrees BTDC):

Many racers and engine tuners have opted for state-of-the-art diagnostic equipment but have forgotten one of the simplest, as well as one of the most accurate tuning tools...... the vacuum gauge.

Vacuum Gauge Connection
Connect the gauge to a "manifold" vacuum source, NOT "ported" vacuum, that rises as RPM increases. Start by first warming the engine and note the idle vacuum reading. Normal vacuum at idle should be 19-21 inches for a six cylinder, or 15-18 inches on a low compression engine.

Ignition Timing
Slacken the distributor clamp bolt, and with the engine still at idle, advance or retard the ignition until the highest steady vacuum reading is obtained. Then retard the timing until the vacuum gauge reading drops slightly, approximately one half to one inch. In some cases, you may need to retard the timing up to two inches to prevent pre-igniton (pinging).

I also fixed this problem . . .
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/557912_3720130914983_615950627_n.jpg

. . . by cutting and bolting in a new section that I got at the junkyard
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/625572_3720131394995_271831452_n.jpg

the list is still growing, I fixed or replaced
- fixed the pop up headlights so they actually pop up
- radiator
- leaky exhaust manifold gasket
- cleaned the 2 tubes of dried RTV off the valve cover & PCV valve
- valve cover gasket
- valve lash adjust (spec=.008"Int & .010"Exh, but it ranged from .015"-.003")
- new rear axle/wheel bearing makes it sooo much quieter at highway speed
- oil pan (the drain plug was level with the "full" mark on the dipstick)
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/539091_3768196836601_1886804684_n.jpg

The front end still has a lot of "ocean motion" going into turns. So next up are shocks, tie rods and alignment. Oh, I also picked up a set of matching wheels :D just need to find some used tires to go on them. 2 weeks till the last rallycross of the season . . .

[DHC6twinotter]

Looking good, Kieth! Lots of good tips and info in this thread. Thanks!

[YotaFun]

Awesome progress Keith, looks like your getting all the work done at your shop, must be slow lol

[corax]

Awesome progress Keith, looks like your getting all the work done at your shop, must be slow lol


Actually, it's been getting done on Saturdays and evenings. Last month I was flat rating at 177% productivity :banana: . . . waiting for the bottom to fall out after summer

[YotaFun]

I'm working at the wrong dealership...
I barely break 40, even working a Saturday...

I need to start pounding pavement and find myself some work

[CJM]

Wowza its coming a long way! Seems once you fix one thing, 5 more crop up tho. Least thats how it goes for me lol.

@Avy, that sucks-but at least you dont hate your job.

[corax]

Wowza its coming a long way! Seems once you fix one thing, 5 more crop up tho. Least thats how it goes for me lol.


I think it's more likely that I'm just finding the bugs that the PO ignored. I drove it to work today and the CEL didn't come on once, so, even more progress - kinda seems like the more I drive it the better it gets, to a point.

[CJM]

I think it's more likely that I'm just finding the bugs that the PO ignored. I drove it to work today and the CEL didn't come on once, so, even more progress - kinda seems like the more I drive it the better it gets, to a point.


Thats pretty much how things go when you buy used. Some take care of things, others just let them go and dont care. Ive been in cars I dont even understand how a person could stand to drive it b/c it was so bad. Its like how do people ignore the screeching of bad brakes?

[corax]

Still working on it. Today though I took it up the highway to the state truck weigh station to get front & rear axle weights (scales work & display even when the station is closed). Front axle is 1450 lbs, rear is 1150 lbs for a total of 2600 with 1/4 tank of gas in it.


I also decided to take some measurements of air pressure acting on the body. I used a 0"-5" Magnehelic pressure differential gauge & all measurements used cabin air pressure as an atmospheric pressure reference.

Here are the links I usually like to give when talking aero refinement - they discuss using wool tufts and directly measuring pressure with a differential air gauge. (BTW, Autospeed has some pretty damn good "real world" tech articles)
- Aero Testing - Part 1 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Aero-Testing-Part-1/A_108656/article.html) Aero Testing - Part 2 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Aero-Testing-Part-2/A_108674/article.html) Aero Testing - Part 3 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Aero-Testing-Part-3/A_108675/article.html) Aero Testing - Part 4 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Aero-Testing-Part-4/A_108676/article.html) Aero Testing - Part 5 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Aero-Testing-Part-5/A_108677/article.html)
- Modifying Under-Car Airflow, Part 1 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Modifying-UnderCar-Airflow-Part-1/A_2455/article.html) Modifying Under-Car Airflow, Part 2 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Modifying-UnderCar-Airflow-Part-2/A_2456/article.html)
- Undertrays, Spoilers & Bonnet Vents, Part 1 (http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2159/article.html) Undertrays, Spoiler & Bonnet Vents, Part 2 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Undertrays-Spoiler-Bonnet-Vents-Part-2/A_2160/article.html) Undertrays, Spoiler & Bonnet Vents, Part 3 (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Undertrays-Spoiler-Bonnet-Vents-Part-3/A_2162/article.html)
- Blowing the Vortex, Part 1 (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_3058/article.html) Blowing the Vortex, Part 2 (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_3059/article.html) Blowing the Vortex, Part 3 (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_3060/article.html) Blowing the Vortex, Part 4 (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_3061/article.html)

Here's what I came up with (yes, engine and trans placement is a bit off in this pic - I didn't draw it):
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/blueprintaeroside1.jpg

Negative numbers indicate vacuum, positive are pressure - so negative is lift if it's on the top off a surface, positive downforce. You could pretty much draw an arrow on the end of the line farthest from where it touches the body. The lines approximate magnitude: a longer line indicates more pressure/vacuum. Each measurement was taken 6 inches apart on the body down the center line. So the first measurement is the corner right where the hood transitions to horizontal, the next measurement is 6" behind that.

I noticed a couple interesting things. Notice how the high vacuum area right at the very leading edge of the roof line creeps down the windshield a bit? It's nothing of consequence, but I didn't really expect to see that. Trunk lid pressure with & without the MR2 wing stayed fairly consistent, no real pressure build up as I expected. Also, pressure on the top and bottom of the wing section almost cancelled each other out - though it should be noted that ALL readings were at 50 mph and air flow may change to make the wing more or less effective at higher speeds, I'm also not sure if pressure readings on a wing are entirely accurate (due to how they operate).


http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/images/large/3263/Toyota-Celica-Twin-Cam-Group-B_2.jpg
LOVE this Group B wing and it doesn't seem like it'd be very difficult to fiberglass up (minus the vent through the middle). After seeing the data from my own wing testing I may have to add another project to my ever growing list . . . maybe using a late 70's Camaro/Firebird spoiler as a starting point

[Seanz0rz]

way cool Keith! I want to try that on my VW when/if I get it running!

a few weeks ago I saw a very old lady driving a VERY mint Celica. Probably has only been driven to the grocery store and doctors since the 80's. Paint looked brand new, it was super clean. Made me want one even more!

[corax]

way cool Keith! I want to try that on my VW when/if I get it running!


When it comes time, if you want to borrow the gauge just let me know

[Obi..]

I keep looking at this page lately b/c of this thread http://www.autoblog.com/2012/03/08/watch-a-restored-1980-toyota-celica-rally-car-put-through-its-pa/

[corax]

That's a good video, but what do you really expect from the Aussies? Give them something internal combustion and they're bound to exceed expectations . . .

BTW, there is some real Celica Group B porn is in these restoration pics: Makela Auto Tuning 1984 Toyota Celica Turbo #TC35 (http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?nav=gallery_view&gallery=projecttoyotacelicaturbotc35&g=13) or Makela Auto Tuning 1984 Toyota Celica Turbo #TC18 (http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?nav=gallery_view&gallery=project1984toyotacelicaturbo&g=13)

[Obi..]

Cool, thanks. *WTF w/ pics 7, 13, etc, is that a car or a fiberglass and plastic boat? Stuff's over 1/4" thick in places? Did they lighten it up so bad they needed to add the weight back in?

EDIT: Nevermind, I remember now, they rolled that in '94 or '95 IIRC? That amount of bodywork just to save a historic vin#, I dunno.


Search by VIN or Frame #:JT1CBTA6400000261


No records found.

[corax]

I have a few projects on the burner, but this is the first and quickest to get done. Another rallycross just got added before the end of the year (non-points though since the season is over), so I hope to get a few more things finished before then.

If you've ever watched the master cylinder & brake booster while someone stepped on the pedal you might have been surprised with how much the whole thing moves. This is all firewall flex. Here's one quick video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaAwT20cFws) showing this, here's another (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=874Svcqr0tQ). I measured about 1/4" with medium pressure and no brake booster assist (engine off). Multiply that 1/4" by the leverage at the brake pedal and now you have probably closer to, if not over, an inch of pedal movement wasted. So I wanted to eliminate that. This master cylinder brace took less than an hour and about $5 in parts. It is adjustable via the bolt head at the end of the master cylinder. This drastically increased brake pedal feel. It wasn't bad to begin with, but now it's much firmer without any loss in braking - I don't have to push harder, it just takes less distance at the pedal.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/MCbrace01.jpg

I used the stock PS reservoir bolt hole + another slightly below and to the rear. I also have 2 holes to drill through the strut tower to further reinforce it. You'll notice in the pic above I had to notch the reservoir bracket slightly.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/MCbrace02.jpg

There are master cylinder braces made for a bunch of different makes, some are quite large because the master cylinder is farther laterally from the strut tower. Luckily, the Celica's master cylinder is very near the strut tower so I didn't have to worry too much about any leverage being exerted on the brace.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/MCbrace03.jpg

[YotaFun]

I know your building up this awesome car, but I was looking through craigslist and came across this guy http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3341212708.html

[jrallan26]

I had a 82 celica exactly like your build. My main issue, the car constantly had an exhaust leak. Other than that, great car.

[corax]

I know your building up this awesome car, but I was looking through craigslist and came across this guy http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3341212708.html


That is a sweet looking Celica. The ones from the late seventies have a lot of potential, but you have to look to find body or interior parts for them anymore.



I had a 82 celica exactly like your build. My main issue, the car constantly had an exhaust leak. Other than that, great car.


Exh manifold leak was one of the first fixes I had to do. I'm really digging it though. It's a fun little car to drive, not the quickest from a stop but it will take a corner nicely at speed.

[corax]

One week until the Celica's inaugural rallycross. So today I bought a big truck mudflap for $15 and cut 4 oversized mudflaps out of it because the organizers have warned, "This site is an old gravel pit (https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ll=45.624258,-122.486916&spn=0.012426,0.01929&t=h&z=16) ? so there are lots of rocks of varying sizes, and it may be rough on your car or at least your tires." I'm hoping my BFGoodrich Radial TAs do alright, but if they don't, I have road hazard ;) I couldn't find a really short stubby phillips screwdriver, so pics will come later as I'll need to mount them at work.

I also recently finished up the strut tower bar, well kinda finished it. I need to make the triangulation bars that go back to the firewall, then the top plates will get welded to the body.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5193.jpg

Even though I kept the bar as low as possible (almost touching the top plate), I had to clearance the hood a little bit anyway. While I was banging on the hood, a friend at work took it upon himself to remove the cruise control in the interests of weight savings since I said I don't use it anyway.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5194.jpg

[corax]

I popped the Celica's cherry at the rallycross yesterday. The BFG Radial T/As did alright considering the course had a lot of "wet-cement" mud and ruts deep enough that the oil pan had to plow through it all. The engine's torque worked well in the mud, but it definitely needs a bit more pony-power to get up to speed. A nice skid plate and tow point on the front are also on the short list now - my first main goal was to NOT get stuck & pulled out by one of the sweep team that showed up, my second main goal was to not need to install my spare oil pan. My photog friend said I was getting air a bit on some of the back stretch, honestly, I couldn't see well enough through the grime on the windshield at points to know it shouldn't have been pegged ;)

in car video: 12.11.03 rallycross 1st run (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-48xEZfLKM#)

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/521795_4105708994194_1105002786_n.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

Awesome! Congrats on the podium finish!

what software are you using to edit your videos?

[jrallan26]

After watching the video I noticed the shifter moving about. You may want to check your transmission mount.

[corax]

Awesome! Congrats on the podium finish!

what software are you using to edit your videos?


Yeah . . . funny thing is, there were only 3 cars in my class :D - the missed gate cost me 10 seconds and slowing down to go around the stuck Mazda2 cost a bit of momentum through the muddy rutted section. Usually, they'll take the best 2-out-of-3 or 3-out-of-4 times and add them together, since there were 40-something cars running we only got 2 runs each and both time just got added.

I'm just using Micropoop Windows Live Movie Maker - pretty simple program to use. The pain in the butt part is that the Contour records in Quiktime and there is something on the desktop that puts a "Medialooks" watermark on the video that I can't remove, so I have to open and convert the video on the laptop first before trimming it down on the desktop.



After watching the video I noticed the shifter moving about. You may want to check your transmission mount.


That's mostly just slop in the shift seat & bushing. There's actually a product to eliminate it that should also work on any of the truck "W" series transmissions (at least on the forward shift "W" trans, the Celica is a W58). It uses a new Marlin shift seat and a brass bushing that gets epoxied in place to eliminate the space where the shifter slides into the shift rail. More reading here: http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=13011.0]Billym W58 Shift Bushing (http://)

[Seanz0rz]

for videos, im still trying to find a video editing program for windows thats somewhere between adobe premiere and windows movie maker. no such luck..

[YotaFun]

Thats awesome Keith!
Congrats on the successful first run!
Looks like your head was hitting the roof a little bit there lol.


Quick out of the loop question, when you got done in that video it looked like you stopped behind a Toyota Matrix?
If thats the case was that a competing car? and any details on it?
My bf just picked up an AWD 06 matrix, if I see people are doing rallycross with it, he is going to have to hid the keys!

[corax]

Thats awesome Keith!
Congrats on the successful first run!
Looks like your head was hitting the roof a little bit there lol.


Quick out of the loop question, when you got done in that video it looked like you stopped behind a Toyota Matrix?
If thats the case was that a competing car? and any details on it?
My bf just picked up an AWD 06 matrix, if I see people are doing rallycross with it, he is going to have to hid the keys!


Thanks! Yeah, the roof is a bit low, I actually have to recline the seat a bit more than I normally would with the helmet on. A friend of mine has agreed to trade a Corbeau seat he has (needs seat frame repair) for some Dirty Drifters (http://www.dirtydrifters.com/) stickers I have. The seat should give me a bit more head room until get rid of the sun roof and weld in a filler panel.

Actually, it was a Scion xD that was driven down from Olympus WA. An ACP (http://www.acpracing.com/) fan IIRC, and his first rallycross also. So, yeah, mount up a set of snow tires on spare wheels and find out where the nearest race is to you. FWIW, one of the competitors was driving a rental car . . .

[Crinale]

for videos, im still trying to find a video editing program for windows thats somewhere between adobe premiere and windows movie maker. no such luck..
Have you looked at Premiere Elements? Most of the power of premiere with an easier interface and <$100.

Good times Keith, looks like a lot of fun!

[corax]

some pics my friend, Chris Daley (https://www.facebook.com/Chris.Daley.Photo) took. I'm not sure which ones I want to buy/barter for yet . . .

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/196129_294151480686675_436364565_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/318847_294152120686611_1475181315_n.jpg

check out the old skool Pontiac Ventura in the background, they ran that huge piece of V8 powered steel
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/542731_294152100686613_1183175680_n.jpg

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/549138_294151617353328_295887241_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/481831_294151580686665_1496067160_n.jpg

[YotaFun]

I personally like the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd the best.

Those are all awesome shot though, you really have me wanting to do some rally cross now, heck the Camry has some nice tires for it (its a BS tire that looks to have a similar pattern to your BFGs)

[Crinale]

I just got a chance to watch the video with the sound on, your car is QUIET! I couldnt even hear it revving most of the time even in that super slick mud..

Wish we had rally cross around here.

[corax]

I personally like the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd the best.

Those are all awesome shot though, you really have me wanting to do some rally cross now, heck the Camry has some nice tires for it (its a BS tire that looks to have a similar pattern to your BFGs)



Check out the rest of my friend's album (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.294150864020070.52051.246274535474370&type=3) from that day. If a lowered auto-cross Miata, mid-70's Pontiac Ventura muscle car or any of the other normal daily drivers can do it, I'm sure the Camry would do fine.

Snow tires seem to be the standard "go-to" for most of the rallycross crowd (in lieu of actually gravel tires which are spendy). I'm currently keeping an eye out for a set of 15" rims that I can mount some used snows onto in spring.



I just got a chance to watch the video with the sound on, your car is QUIET! I couldnt even hear it revving most of the time even in that super slick mud..

Wish we had rally cross around here.


Yeah, I got a couple comments that I need to learn to use more of the silly pedal cause it's so quiet, but it was to the floor most of the time. The 22RE's torque was great in the muck, I just need to try to get a few more ponies out of the engine to get it up to speed quicker. I'm starting to get parts together for an exhaust, I'd like to run 2.5" from the header to cat and then 2.25" back through a SpinTech muffler.

Try these links for something near you
- http://www.calclubrallyx.com/
- http://californiarallyseries.com/

[YotaFun]

I would rather have an AWD or RWD for something like this but I might try it with the Camry.

I have a set of snow tires for the Camry but they put the car too low to the ground for me to want to actually want to drive it off the road.
The Stock size tire is a
205/65/15 measuring at around 25.49
I have two sets, my normal DD tires and then the snow tires

I do have a third set of tire that are a little bit larger and wider that I like.
they are
225/60/16 which measure out to 26.62
It is an aggressive tread that is similar to what you have on the Celica now and feel out the wheel well nice and put the car a little higher up for a decent stance.

I would love to have that STI and really deck that out to have fune.
Its amazing to see all of that going on, I am guessing the Mazda 2 that was out there was the rental? lol!

I am having a hard time trying to figure out what the #9 car is.

Sorry for the hijack Keith, this is an awesome sight to see and def looks like a boat load of fun!

[corax]

Not a hijack at all. FWD & AWD generally post better times than RWD, and are fairly evenly matched on a short course like rallycross. I picked RWD for more smiles per mile. You don't need to drink the AWD Kool-Aid.

The 9 car (https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/390069_294151264020030_828432989_n.jpg) is one of my favorites. It's officially called "Patches" on the Rally America site and is a 1986 Toyota Corolla. It's often rented out to race the regionals. BTW, the 86 car is driven by John Reed, one of the top tuners in the country, and is powered by a 3S-GE "BEAMS" engine (https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/549063_294151344020022_1836245412_n.jpg) (2L, 11.5:1 compression, 210hp stock . . . except his has the full Motec package of course, so who knows)

Here's another photo album (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.366478693426789.83922.356186201122705&type=3)

and a short video of one of the Subies
12 11 03 1010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMiWU9bZ2po&feature=youtu.be#ws)

[Obi..]

3rz Swap it? :D

[corax]

Thought about that, but doing so would automatically put me in a modified class at which point I could probably pick a better engine to swap (2JZ for example, if I were going that route). I'm building for Rally Prepared

Rally Stock Category
Stock Rear Wheel Drive (SR)
Stock Front Wheel Drive (SF)
Stock All Wheel Drive (SA)
Preparation allowances:
1. All Cars must be equipped as from the manufacturer, with only
factory installed and port‐installed option packages. Options that
were only part of a package must be present with the entire package.
Complete option packages may be installed after purchase of the
vehicle.
2. Tires must be DOT approved. Tires marked ?For competition only?,
?Not for street use? or similar, are not allowed. No part of the tire
may be modified or altered from its original form, either through
addition or subtraction, other than normal wear. Tires must be the
original size plus/minus 20mm cross section and 5% aspect ratio. No
studded tires are permitted unless ice or snow is present. Studded
tires may not be homemade using bolts or screws. Only street‐legal
studs are allowed. Tires may not interfere with any parts of the car
(fenders, fender liners, suspension, etc).
3. Any air filter may be used, but it must fit in the stock location.
4. The additions of protective equipment are allowed with the following
exceptions:
a. The modifications must only provide protection to the car and/or
occupants and provide no performance advantage.
b. Mud flaps may only be made of urethane and other flexible
plastic derivatives (i.e. no carbon‐Kevlar)
c. Skidplates protecting suspension and drivetrain components may
only be made out of metal, composite materials or plastic
derivatives.
d. Driver restraints and roll cage may be added.
e. Additional or replacement hood and trunk latches are permitted.
All latch systems must be secure.
5. Dress‐up and convenience items which do not give a performance
advantage, reduce the weight of the car, or weigh less than the
replaced standard part they are replacing are allowed (i.e. shift knobs,
pedal covers).
6. ABS and/or traction control systems may be electronically/electrically
disabled but not removed.
7. Vehicle lights may be replaced with alternate bulbs and housing.
Auxiliary lights may be added. The total number of lights shall not be
less than standard.
8. Any brake pads may be used.
9. Fuel may be any type of unleaded, E85, or diesel fuel commonly
available at the pump. Alternative fuels must be pre‐approved by the
event RallyCross Safety Steward prior to the event. No other alcohol
fuels or nitrous oxide are allowed.
10. Any clutch disc or pressure plate may be used provided it fits all the
other unmodified, stock components.
11. Exhaust systems from the catalytic converter back may be removed
or replaced with the following requirements:
a. The exhaust must exit to the rear of the driver.
b. The exhaust must comply with local noise restrictions
12. Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following:
Wheels must be of the same diameter and width as the OEM wheel.
Wheel offset (backspace) must be within 0.375"(9.5mm) of original
equipment wheel offset.
13. Shocks/dampers may be replaced with OEM or aftermarket
replacement units intended for the specific year make and model
used. The stock spring must be used as it was on the OEM unit. The
spring perch must be factory welded to the damper or use the exact
attachment method and position as OEM. Adjustable dampers are
only allowed if the OEM unit was adjustable and must retain the same
number of adjustments or fewer as OEM. Remote reservoir shocks
are only allowed if they are exact OEM units.
14. The front sway bar may be added, replaced or removed. A
replacement front sway bar may serve no other purpose than
originally intended by the vehicle manufacturer. In the case where
the front sway bar is also a suspension locating link, stock geometry
and methods of attachment must be maintained.
15. Any wheel alignment settings may be used provided the settings can
be accomplished within the unmodified adjustment range as
delivered from the factory. Any alignment techniques allowed by the
factory service manual from the vehicle manufacturer may also be
used.
16. Aftermarket replacement batteries are allowed provided they are the
same type, group size and location as originally equipped.
17. Spare tires, tools, jacks, and any related covers may be removed.

Rally Prepared Category
Prepared Rear Wheel Drive (PR)
Prepared Front Wheel Drive (PF)
Prepared All Wheel Drive (PA)
Preparation allowances:
1. All Rally Stock category modifications are allowed.
2. Any sway bars and their mounting may be used or removed.
3. Any brakes may be used.
4. Exhaust systems from the cylinder head exhaust ports back May be
replaced with any material with the following requirements:
a. The exhaust must exit to the rear of the driver.
b. The exhaust must comply with local noise restrictions.
5. The intake system upstream from the throttle body may be replaced
with any material. Forced induction components cannot be changed
or added (turbochargers, superchargers, intercoolers). Turbocharger
boost regulation systems, either electronic or mechanical, may be
modified or replaced.
6. Short shift kits are allowed.
7. Front and/or rear strut tower bars are permitted.
8. Any dampers may be used but the damper must mount to the original
mounting position using unmodified mounting points. Springs may
also be replaced, but they must be of the same type and use original
mounting points. Threaded collars and camber plates are allowed.
9. Electronic engine controls may be modified or piggybacked, but not
replaced.
10. Any tire is allowed except homebuilt studded tires.
11. Any front seat may be used, provided the seating surface is fully
upholstered. This does not permit the substitution of a passenger?s
seat with a child or miniature seat of any type. Any substituted
passenger?s seat must be sufficiently large and strong to be capable
of adequately accommodating an adult, such that it could be used as
the driver?s seat. Cars may have no fewer than the original number of
seats. Seat belts are required in all cars; however; the number of
attachment points may not be less than originally equipped.
Installation of shoulder and lap belts is strongly recommended.
Additional belts must be installed per the belt manufacturer's
recommendations.
12. Any non‐metallic bushing is allowed.
13. Wheels are unrestricted.
14. On carburetor equipped cars, any bolt on intake manifold or
carburetor may be used. Any air filter system and associated parts
may also be used.
15. Vehicles may substitute one differential with a mechanically governed
limited slip or locking unit of an alternate type. This includes spools
and welded stock differentials. This does not allow the use of a
differential with external controls (electronic or otherwise) to
regulate slip or locking. Differentials must be contained in a stock
unmodified housing/third member with stock or optional ring and
pinion ratios available for the specific model, body, and year of the
vehicle only. 4wd vehicles may not substitute more than one
differential with an alternate type.
16. Batteries may be substituted with any type. Relocation of the battery
or batteries within the engine compartment or trunk area/luggage
compartment behind the rearmost seats is permitted. Longer battery
cables may be substituted to permit relocation and holes may be
drilled to accommodate mounting of the battery and cables.
17. Accessory drive pulleys and belts may be replaced.
18. Any clutch disc or pressure plate may be used.
19. On automatic transmission vehicles, any torque converter may be
used.

[Crinale]

Keith, you realize a well sorted 2/3rz can make the same power levels as a 2jz right? and it will fit a lot easier into your engine bay. There are daily driven 2rz's (can take more boost due to the shorter stroke) in the 7-800hp range.. Personally I would go that route for a little less weight in front.

and looks like the nearest rally cross events are out in Johnson Valley and in the Palm Desert, both of which are about 5-6+ hours drive for me..

[corax]

Yep, in fact there's a local up here that swapped a 2RZ into his 3rd gen Celica. IIRC, he left the internals stock and was claiming 28mpg. I like the 2RZ's over-square design and I know there's plenty of potential for it. One downside is that the exhaust and intake are on opposite sides than the 22RE. No big deal, but crossing the exhaust over would kill a little bit of ground clearance and create something to snag (less so if I used oval tube). The BEAMS 3SGE, however, has the exhaust on the correct side, is a "square" engine and has nearly, or over, 200hp to start. Plus, I've found a seller online that is selling the BEAMS with a 6 speed manual, harness & ECU for ~$1500.

Either way, that's a conversation for further down the road. For now I want to stay in the lower rallycross classes which means I keep the 22RE. BTW, I just realized that Engnbldr (http://www.engnbldr.com/) is only 3 miles from where I live :)

[Obi..]

@Crinale, thanks, I though I lost him there for a second. ;)

@Corax, BEAMS IS NICE, but has it's quirks too. :D

Back to reading and dreaming of hoonage.

[Crinale]

Ah, gotcha Keith :thumbup: that BEAMS engine sounds interesting though.. the 3sge is an interesting motor, did that ever come in a front engine rwd setup? I thought it was just in non turbo 2nd gen mr2s and corollas and such..

[corax]

It was available as front engine/RWD in the Altezza / RS200 (we never got those here).

According to BEAMS owners group (http://www.beams-redtop.com/history.htm):

The fourth generation 3S-GE, also known as the BEAMS 3S-GE began production in 1997. The first version was equipped with VVT-I and produced 197 bhp (147 kW, 200 PS) @ 7000 rpm. It was available in a few models sold only in Japan - the MR2 G and G-Limited, the Celica ST202 SS-II and SS-III and the Caldina. BEAMS is an acronym which stands for Breakthrough Engine with Advanced Mechanism System.

In 1998 a second version was released with dual VVT-i (variable timing on both the intake and exhaust cams), titanium valves, battery-backed injectors and a slightly higher compression ratio (11:1 instead of 10.5:1). This engine powered the Altezza RS200 and produced around 207 bhp (154 kW, 210 PS) @ 7600 rpm.

The two variants are easily identifiable by colour. The cam covers on the earlier model are red and on the later model, black. They are often referred to as the "Red Top" and the "Black Top" respectively.

The "Grey Top" BEAMS 3S-GE was an available engine option in the Rav4 in Japan. Even though the valve cover on this engine is black, it is referred to as "Grey Top" to differentiate it from the Dual-VVTi "Black Top" in the Altezza. Power output is 177 bhp (132 kW, 180 PS) @ 6600 rpm.

[corax]

I recently traded a sticker for an old Corbeau Forza seat, today I sorta kinda got it installed.

I attached some shallow channel to an extra pair of seat sliders that I have - the channel is welded and bolted to the sliders so it's pretty solid
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03821.jpg

bolted that to the seat
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03822.jpg

and bolted the seat into the car
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03823.jpg

Then I took it all out of the car and put the original seat back in. The upright seating position is OK, except my head is still hitting the roof - I was hoping this seat would drop me low enough to gain a bit of head room. AND, the stock 3 point seat belts wouldn't work very well will the high bottom bolsters, too much space between me & the lap belt (that could be fixed by feeding the buckle through one hole and the belt through the other). So I think I may sell this seat & go on the hunt for a good reclining seat or maybe something else . . . mainly looking for something with a bit more side support

[Obi..]

OK, you got my curiosity piqued now.


What was the sticker b/c it had to have been an old school collectible one, right?

I only ask b/c after some of us out here sold stuff off at a recent SWAP Meet and now we see O.S.S. is selling them on ebay. I got $25 for the 4 pictured below and thought it outrageously overpaid, apparently not. he's making a killing reselling them.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/271007874379?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
http://compare.ebay.com/like/390457689257?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
http://compare.ebay.com/like/320830371156?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
http://compare.ebay.com/like/320961494310?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

[corax]

OK, you got my curiosity piqued now.

What was the sticker b/c it had to have been an old school collectible one, right?


No, not really collectible. Just a regular sticker I got from one of the Dirty Drifter (http://www.dirtydrifters.com/index.php) co-drivers at the Olympus Rally. Just like the one on the wing of this Subie
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/374649_254844571243527_906805372_n.jpg
Dirty Drifters: A dedicated crew of motorsport hooligans! We have no particular mission or end outcome to our crusade, just a shared unquenchable thirst for sleepless nights filled with gear oil-soaked agony only to absorb minutes of dusk light glory!

[corax]

I like idiot lights. I'd rather not have to keep looking down at the gauges just in case something is going bad when a light can come on instead to warn me. So I pulled my cluster at lunch today to install some LED warning lights for coolant temp & oil pressure. The oil pressure switch for the engine is faily universal and can be snagged from any car in the junkyard that doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, just look for a small single wire sensor near the oil filter. I haven't decided on a coolant temp switch yet - one from a GM would work (and uses a fairly universal NPT pipe thread), but those come on at 228 which is a bit high. The Supra 7MGTE aux fan switch is what I have on my 4runner's warning light and that comes on at 220 (about 7/8 of the way to pegged on teh gauge), but i haven't had much luck finding one yet. Either way, the temp switch will probalby get mounted to the intake below the factory temp gauge sensor, there's already a plug there which would make it easy if it's tapped for pipe thread. Both sensor types (oil & coolant temp) work by giving a ground, so the LEDs can get power locally and I just need to run 1 wire for each circuit into the engine bay.

I skipped a couple steps, but it's fairly straight forward getting most clusters out. The cluster's clear plastic part is held on by little catches around the perimeter and 2 screws on the bottom - start at one corner & just work your way around a little bit at a time until it's off. Be careful not to touch the oil pressure needle or you'll mess up the gauge . . . actually, try not to touch any of the needles if possible. Once the clear plastic is off the front, remove all the screws from the back so the gauges come out of the cluster body. It helps if you draw the rough shape of the cluster on a piece of paper and lay the screws out on the paper approximately where they came out of: there are different diameter and length screws.

this is what it looked like apart - plenty of room in there
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03824.jpg

this is with the holes drilled & LEDs installed - connect the B+ red wires together, those go to switched ignition power. I was careful where the holes were drilled so there wouldn't be any interference from the cluster housing once it was reassembled.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03825.jpg

route them around and out of the way, make sure the wires won't get pinched between the back of the gauge and the cluster housing (like the red & black wires are doing on the temp gauge in this pic). make sure they won't block any of the back-light bulbs or get near moving bits (speedo)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03827.jpg

Snip a small bit of plastic off this tube so the wires don't push the gauge face out when it's assembled. The other option is to drill a hole in the back of the cluster housing. Before you reassemble everything, make sure there are no plastic bits floating around from drilling your holes. Also make sure the gauge face is clean of any fingerprints or grease smudges.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03828.jpg

wires fished out the back and cluster reassembled. Most of the screws make an electrical connection to one gauge or another, so make sure they're snug but no overly tight. I waited to get the cluster back together before tightening the screws so I wouldn't be pressing on the gauge needles. The B+ wire (white in my case) is going to get a small eyelet and attached to the switched ignition screw to the right of where they come out (see the screw that says IG+ next to it)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03829.jpg

finished product. Now I have a yellow light to warn me if the temps creep up & the red is for oil pressure, both near their respective gauge, all I have to do yet is install the sending units and run the wire (there will of course be a 2 pin connector at the cluster to ease removal in the future). Oh yeah, now is a good time if you want to try to polish the cluster plastic to make it pretty.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/DSC03831.jpg

[Crinale]

Nice! Being born in the 80s and not really being around old cars much, I forget that little things like idiot lights weren't always there.

[corax]

Nice! Being born in the 80s and not really being around old cars much, I forget that little things like idiot lights weren't always there.


. . . and it doesn't have a clutch pedal interlock - it'll start without having to step on the clutch pedal :D
Must have been made in a time when people were less likely to sue for their own mistakes

[DHC6twinotter]

So much good tech in this thread! Thanks for posting this, Keith!

[Crinale]

Nice! Being born in the 80s and not really being around old cars much, I forget that little things like idiot lights weren't always there.


. . . and it doesn't have a clutch pedal interlock - it'll start without having to step on the clutch pedal :D
Must have been made in a time when people were less likely to sue for their own mistakes


haha, although my BMW will start without the clutch depressed too, and its an 86. But I just never think bout those things..

[04 Rocko Taco]

my '84 runner has no clutch safety switch either, my wife nearly ran me over when I asked her to turn it over one time in the shop. lol.

[Crinale]

my '84 runner has no clutch safety switch either, my wife nearly ran me over when I asked her to turn it over one time in the shop. lol.
lol, that would have been an interesting situation to witness..

[corax]

latest project: electric fans

I got the idea to use a BMW dual temp switch from this thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028 and chose the 195*/210* switch - I'll decide over the next few days if this was the right switch to use.

BMW 80 / 88* C (180/195*F) dual temp switch Part # 61318361787
BMW 91 / 99* C (195/210*F) dual temp switch Part # 61311378073
With that switch, I built a triple relay system to control the fans. When the low temp switch is closed the fans run in series, keeping them at a lower speed. When the high temp switch trips both fans run in parallel with their own power & ground. I'm hoping for increased efficiency with both fans running during low speed operation since air will be getting pulled through the entire length of the radiator (less cycling to high speed) + it won't have the "short circuit loop" if only 1 fan was running where air gets drawn in from the back-side of the non-active fan, across (not through) the radiator and back through the single active fan - if that makes sense. For now I'm using a 50A Maxi blade fuse. Low speed operation draws about 5.5A with an initial spike of right around 30A (the spike only lasts a split second). On high speed the fans draw 17 & 11 amps respectively with a nice heavy initial spike of nearly 90A.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/fancontroljpg.jpg
For the diode in the diagram above I used a 50V 3A epoxy rectifier diode from Radioshack (p/n 276-1143)

I was lucky enough to find a thermostat housing with a sensor bung cast into it. To mount the BMW switch I tapped out the existing hole to 3/8"x18 NPT (originally 16mm x 1.5 IIRC). I tapped a brass adapter to 14mm x 1.5 to accept the sensor & threw it all together. The only thing I don't like about this setup is that there might be an air bubble below the sensor tip since it doesn't extend into the coolant. Oh yeah, I didn't want to spend $20 for the all the pieces to put the BMW connector together so I took male blade connectors and pushed the part the the wire would normally go in onto the sensor posts and then lightly soldered.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5259_zps9a6f45e4.jpg

Switched ignition voltage for the relay coils comes from the + post on the ignition coil - it's powered directly from IG2 relay, so nothing is getting taxed. In the future I may move the relay power wire to the Fuel Cut Relay (fuel pump power) so the fans only run when the engine is running - that way the fans won't drain the battery if I stop the engine but leave the ignition on. I couldn't find any other circuits in the car that only get power with the engine running. I haven't run the wire into the cabin for the high speed over-ride switch yet.

This is how I mounted the fans onto the radiator, the holes on the radiator sides were already there. I drilled the shroud for the studs by setting the fans on the radiator, putting the drill bit through both holes on the piece (works as a guide) and then just punching a hole through the plastic. It's double nutted so the side rail doesn't get deformed or tweaked when the fan is tightened down.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5247_zpsf0bfae75.jpg

the bottom had to be trimmed a little bit to get the fan up against the radiator. Any significant gap between the fans & the radiator will reduce how much air actually gets drawn through the radiator + it's a little tight by the power steering pump, so extra clearance is welcome.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5250_zps73a12c31.jpg

All mounted up & wired. These fans really are a near perfect fit for the radiator.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5252_zps8dd53092.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5261_zps90508a1e.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5263_zps058acaee.jpg

There's just enough room between the p/s pump and the fan to slide the belt past, so it's close but I'm not afraid of it ever hitting
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5266_zpsd2e57b65.jpg

[corax]

finally fixed the center pedestal on the 1st gen MR2 wing so it reaches down to the trunk lid. The center post isn't actually screwed down, just resting against the lid, which should be fine - it's not going anywhere

the main component, about 1.5 rolls of this. Pro tip: warm it up in a glass of hot water before trying to knead it together (works to make regular JBWeld mix easier also)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5275_zps709bd928.jpg

minor frame to keep the JBWeld in place, every nook & cranny was filled with the JB. the tape is to keep the JB from permanently attaching itself to the paint (a little bit of wax on the tape helps it to release later)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5273_zps90a82e78.jpg

I kept adding small pieces until it was the general shape I wanted
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5277_zps597f2f77.jpg

Some of the extra material knocked down with a rasp, sanded, painted, & good enough for me. I added a bit of black FIPG (RTV) around the bolt holes because water was leaking into the trunk lid frame and into the trunk itself.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5279_zps29dae12d.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5280_zps49225776.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_52811024x768_zps7844796f.jpg

[04 Rocko Taco]

I really like the fans! Near perfect fit for sure, and good work on the wing support!

[Crinale]

Looks good there Keith

[corax]

I really like the fans! Near perfect fit for sure, and good work on the wing support!


Yeah, those fans move some serious amount of air (I don't think the high speed circuit has kicked on yet in traffic), but the gauge starts creeping up to the 3/4 mark before they start, so I just ordered the 180/195 dual temp switch to install instead. I may use the higher temp switch for my instrument cluster idiot light - maybe make it a 2 stage light where it glows dim and then gets brighter.

New project. I've never really considered any car "mine" until I cut some holes in the hood ;)
Using the info I gathered here (http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=21925.msg387044#msg387044), I tried to keep the holes as far forward on the hood as possible. The very forward edge of the holes are about even with the back of the electric fan shrouds so they are well within the area of low pressure. I'm not too worried about a bit of water getting on the distributor, if it becomes a problem I can simply make a splash shield out of some thin lexan.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/hoodvent01_zpsc51cee5c.jpg

Now I'm just waiting for the paint on the exposed metal edges to dry before I can pop in the vents.
bonus points if anyone can guess which model gave up their hood vents for this.

*edit* here they are installed
I'm thinking they'll probably get pulled and given a bit of flat black so they don't stand out so much
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/hoodvent02_zpsc8169d0c.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/hoodvent03_zps2ce361ed.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/hoodvent04_zpsce8baffb.jpg

I got the ones I used off fleabay for $10, or I might have tried to squeeze these on as well (rear hood vents from a 85-92 TransAm)
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRasTcNa2c5Ge7_tnMM60qrm-ukMtjdqn8gm-4SZ45FQwRXTA0s_DFaWahQtg

I was also looking for LeBaron Turbo (top, supposedly very heavy) or Lumina Z34 vents (bottom) while I was junkyarding . . .
http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/Pictures/Subaru/Underside%20aero/vents%20-%20lumina%20vs%20lebaron.jpg

. . . or older TransAm fender vents . . .
http://www.pictures.musclecarjungle.com/d/8986-3/1976-trans-am-fenter-vent.jpg

. . . then there's always the T-Bird Turbo coupe vents
http://www.pictures.musclecarjungle.com/d/13950-2/1988-thunderbird-turbo-coupe-hood-scoop-intake.jpg

[corax]

I decided to install the upper intake & bigger Cressida throttle body, and wait on the lower intake/teflon gasket until I get my injectors cleaned & balanced by Witch hunter (http://www.witchhunter.com/). So it was a perfect opportunity to finally install the temp switch for my idiot light (http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?topic=25102.msg389847#msg389847). I decided to go with a 210* switch that (nearly) fits perfectly in the blocked off hole below the temp gauge sensor. A master list of temperature switches showing how they activate, at what temp, & the thread pitch can be found on the Wells site (http://www.wellsve.com/custom_searches/ds_fans.php?showall=yes)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5296_zps364a5d34.jpg

I say "nearly" fits perfect because, while it threads in fine, the second shoulder from the tip bottoms out on the casting. The solution is to open up the casting flange at the bottom of the threaded hole with a 1/2" drill bit. The shoulder on the temp switch is exactly .500" so a bit of file work may be necessary to give it a bit more clearance if you don't drill it just right. Oh yeah, my skinny Craftsman drill rested up against the manifold and helped me drill it straight, a thicker drill might make the bit go in on an angle - be careful of the threads. (whoever did whatever to this engine must have used a gallon of red RTV - it is EVERYWHERE)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5297_zps47ebd8a6.jpg

Installed (blurry one)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5298_zps9dce9fc4.jpg

I cut down and re-threaded (5mmx0.8 die) the adjustable linkage off a 5M Cressida to give me a bit more length than the original 22RE linkage. This way the angle of the throttle plate when I crack it open off idle won't move quite as fast as it would if the linkage pivot was further counter-clockwise (trying to eliminate some of the jerkiness in traffic). The link lever itself was already drilled & trimmed down in this pic.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5299_zps92ef75b8.jpg

I also fitted a 2.75"-3" 90* silicone elbow that I found on fleabay for $20ish. It fit just right with the smaller end on the throttle body and is solid enough that I haven't even bothered to brace or support the AFM yet.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5304_zpsfc4d02e9.jpg

In the pic above you can also see the blue temp sensor hose adapter that I ended up using for the electric fan switch - it didn't work as well as I would have liked mounted in the thermostat housing.

I also got rid of all the shifter slop with this little wonder from w58bushings.com (also should work in other "W" series transmissions). Now it "clicks" into gear every time I shift :D
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5318_zps37306363.jpg
FWIW, I found it MUCH easier to cut out the rubber part of the shift rail bushing with the shifter housing removed - working through the hole for the shift seat was a pain

[corax]

bit of an update. The belly pan skid does it job nicely
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/frontskidplate_zps8b4fc44b.jpg

haven't had to use the pull point yet
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/towpoint01_zps23e46624.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/towpoint03_zps4a204cc9.jpg

steel braided brake lines make me smile - added bonus: the GTS IRS kit comes with a hose that's not needed on the solid axle Celica, but fits the clutch slave cylinder perfectly
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/steelbraidedRF_zps004e7130.jpg

got around to installing the port matched lower intake & Witch Hunter (http://www.witchhunter.com/) reconditioned blue top 23250-34030 (http://www.witchhunter.com/flowdatapix/d2325034030.jpg) injectors. World of difference in how the car idles now, before it was pretty rough at idles and had partial misfires from 1k-2k RPM under light to medium throttle. When I started it, I actually though it might have stalled because it was so smooth. These increased fuel flow from 186cc to 216cc, so I adjusted the AFM to tune it a bit
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_54461024x768_zps05adc507.jpg

port matched a later ('91 up?) 22RE "straight" style intake. the purpose of these air dams (not on the earlier castings) in front of the individual runners intrigues me a bit + there's no slight bend after the throttle body like the earlier upper intake
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_54391024x768_zpsbdcae719.jpg

also got rid of the linkages and switched to having the cable pull directly on the throttle body (instead of on a bell crank which moves a linkage which pulls the throttle body as you can see in the previous post)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_54731024x768_zpsebfa16c4.jpg

got tired of the lack of head room so I pulled out the sunroof and cut off the lip which remained
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/roofpanel11_zps149c6b98.jpg

flanged a piece of roof, which I removed from a junkyard car with a hammer and sharp chisel, using my newest HF purchase
Flange tool from HF, that will make the filler piece fit perfectly flush
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/160x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18293.jpg

this also shaved ~50lbs off the car. Mark Levinson premium Lexus speaker magnets to hold the panel in place
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/roofpanel14_zpsa23d1142.jpg

tacked just before Bondo
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/roofpanel15_zpscaeb3b57.jpg

The next project (of many) is to put the 3 yr old DieHard Platinum battery I found on the used battery pile at work (which tested perfect after a nice 6hr charge cycle) into the trunk which should shift me to slightly better than 45% of the weight in the rear :cool:

[Seanz0rz]

Is that skid plate high density polyethylene?

[corax]

Is that skid plate high density polyethylene?


ULTRA high density PE ;)
only cost a few bucks at tapplastics.com, and I picked it up at one of the local stores

[Seanz0rz]

ohhhhhhhh! ULTRA!!! fancy!

I was thinking about doing that for my belly of the truck, since it doesn't see a lot of rocks.

[corax]

I used 1/2" thick with a 3/4 metal lip on the top side for support. The bottom/ horizontal piece is supported on the sides and uses nut clips so I can take it off for oil changes better - it also slides forward into a pocket, of sorts, so the leading edge can't possibly bite into the ground or get torn back.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_5309_zpsdb9da413.jpg

these are the clips that I used on the bottom piece, can't think of the proper name at the moment
http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/u-clip-nut-28445-2899393.jpg

[CJM]

Speed nuts

[corax]

That's what they're called - just wasn't coming to me.

Mostly finished the roof, I might sand it a bit more at some later date and possibly paint it all one color (I'm thinking silver to keep interior temps down). This should help me pick up at least 10 seconds at the next rallycross :sarcasm:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/roofpanel18_zps3054422c.jpg

Now I just need to bend up the main hoop for a roll bar & burn on a pair of back stays before installing a set of Corbeau retractable 4 point (actually it's a 3 point since that denotes the number of attachments, but 4 straps across my body) and finally installing the seat I got for free many moons ago. (http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10025-RA64-Celica-build&p=104662&viewfull=1#post104662)

[CJM]

I seriously am jealous just how cool this car is by now.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I just finished rereading this entier thread, and this is one seriously cool car. I've always thought it was a really neat project, and am jealous of the fun rallycrossing! Keep it up!

[corax]

pics from Sunday's RallyX (also finished the flip-up headlight delete/bumper recess/custom grill). The Gravel Pit mud was deep with the consistency of freshly poured concrete and a couple ditches waiting to swallow the front suspension if you were unfortunate enough to hit them straight on (my front UHMW skid is decidedly bow shaped now). I was plagued with some intermittent terrible grinding from the front wheels. When I got home and pulled the front wheels I found all the noise was caused by about a pound of gravel (including pieces as big as my thumb) jammed into the caliper grinding into the wheels - I guess it's time for wheel scrapers or 15" wheels so the gravel doesn't get stuck in the calipers

https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10514504_10152254360844576_1106773423044225933_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10349084_10152254354339576_8990420855682273711_n.j pg

this was one of those ditches - see how the back end is getting light coming out of the ditch? yeah, it hurt a bit
https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10494769_10152254354099576_1745347561434977721_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10447138_10152254350969576_8454857810076205470_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10447395_10152254353984576_3104899392144349740_n.j pg
https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10489760_10152254348984576_8564548298080096384_n.j pg

my passenger was screaming & laughing the entire time
https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10491086_10152254348894576_4591615208512078029_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10406859_10152254362899576_8934408949343465091_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10349962_10152254351109576_570327602609560345_n.jp g

here's some video, rewind it 30 seconds for some turbo VW Synchro van action
http://youtu.be/fA1Kot6vAOk?t=2m47s

[DHC6twinotter]

Awesome pics, Keith! That Synchro is awesome, but I really like that old-school Volvo (I think) at 4:10.

Looks like a lot of fun!

[Kryptoroxx]

Man I always wanted one of the supracelicas as my first car. I know that's an 85 but it reminds me of what I wanted. Probably why I'm still breathing versus wrapped around a telephone pole lol.

Really cool project though. I enjoyed reading the thread.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

[paddlenbike]

That looked like it should be more fun than the law allows. Some of my favorite 80s cars in there too...Celicas, MR2s, Corolla GTS's...nice.

RWD definitely looks to be the most fun.

[corax]

I really like that old-school Volvo (I think) at 4:10.


I believe that's a Volvo 122 - built and driven by Christopher Conrad, it entered it's first full stage rally just a couple weeks ago in Idaho
More pics here: https://www.facebook.com/ConradRally or here: https://www.facebook.com/christopher.joseph.conrad

[04 Rocko Taco]

Not quite a zombie thread since it is only 3.5 months old, but I just re-read this thread again, and wondered if there were any other updates or new pics of the car. ( I know you havent been on in a little over a month, but hoping you see this)

I really need some inspiration for my project! (Of course my first project is cleaning out the damn shop, so I can get a project in there. haha)

[corax]

I still jump into the forums every now and then, but I mostly just lurk.
a couple updates . . . I stripped a leaf sprung Toyota Van F-code (7.5") axle down to the bare housing and built all new brackets for the Celica's 4 link. It went from 3:76 gears to 4:30 gears for some quick shifting low geared fun. The center section also got a solid pinion spacer, Supra LSD and Weir LSD rebuild kit for way more bite than the factory gave it. Drums got ditched as my first attempt at a custom disc conversion using CAD and having parts laser cut worked out rather well. I also switch to generic "conventional" 5" OD springs for more selection and tuning
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/Axle/axle%2014_zpsb16f6rgn.jpg
240SX rotors, Maxima calipers. IF/when I switch to 5 lug, all I need is 5 lug Van axles and 5 lug 240SX rotors. I also recently picked up a pair of 300ZX calipers (bigger piston) which will bolt onto my adapters - '85 300ZX came in 4 or 5 lug + bigger rotor, so same option for switching lug pattern, though I would need new adapters to use the bigger rotor.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/Rear%20Disc/r%20disc%2008_zpsf3uwkaiw.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/Axle/axle%2015_zps1hofikxf.jpg

I need an air compressor yet before I can start on the next major project - cutting my 1/4 panels off and grafting Conquest TSi box flares on
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/100_5966_zpsipo65iwq.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/11067124_10204769517170911_7383433981888841000_n_z psqkq4itjl.jpg

[DHC6twinotter]

Looking really good Keith! I love how you are able to source parts from all over the place. Toyota van and Nissan parts on an old Celica....I would have never guessed!

BTW, I'm living in the NW now and wouldn't mind checking out one of your rally races. Is there an online schedule or something posted somewhere?

[corax]

BTW, I'm living in the NW now and wouldn't mind checking out one of your rally races. Is there an online schedule or something posted somewhere?

Where in the PNW? There's a National Challenge happening on July 25th and 26th in Chehalis, WA. The rest of the RallyX's will likely be in Vancouver, WA near the Oregon border. If you come out bring a helmet, or borrow one of the loaners, and take a few ride-alongs - they're free, and most everyone will let someone sit in the silly seat for a ride.

There's also a stage rally near Shelton, WA with fully cages cars going stupid fast through the woods near the end of September. If you wanna check that out, let me know and I'll give you some tips on spectating (not sure if I'll be working that event).

Oregon Rally Group, click on the Rallycross tab on top: http://oregonrally.com/

[DHC6twinotter]

Cool! Thanks for the info! I live in Eastsound, WA (San Juan Islands). I'll have to make it to one of those events.

[corax]

The Celica is currently down for the count - I got tired of adding 1-2 qts of oil per week daily driving it (it always burned a bit of oil, but got really bad with the high revs of 4.30 gears). I even missed the last 2 events of the year, both were new venues - one at Oregon Race Park and one at DirtFish Rally School (as part of the first SCCA RallySprint in the PNW in over a decade).
(pic from my last event)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/11952795_10153170009059576_8608105168956652642_o_z psqpwif0lc.jpg

It might be down, but not out, just time to strengthen and upgrade - I have 4 months till the next event.
Interior is stripped, sound deadening removed with the help of 15 lbs of dry ice/alcohol, and today I'll start on seam stitch welding to stiffen up the chassis. Some of the interior might be going back in, probably the center console and carpet.
The engine & trans will also get yanked one of these weekends so I can seam stitch weld the engine bay and strut towers (part-out on AFM, header, big 5M TB & matching late-style intake manifold, etc).
(all the deadening is piled up in the passenger side)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Celica/12415687_10206068798412130_912377349_o_zpsxulaslhh .jpg

[Seanz0rz]

What's the plan for the engine and trans?

Hopefully I'll get to see this thing in action some day!

[corax]

Hell, I'll let you drive it at a RallyX if the timing works out

Toyota 3SGE Blacktop BEAMS (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_S_engine#Generation_5) with an Aisin J160 6spd manual trans


In 1998, the fifth version of the 3S-GE was released, found only in the Japanese-delivered Altezza RS200. The 'Black Top' as it came to be referred to as, was fitted with a dual VVT-i system that adjusted timing on both intake and exhaust camshafts and came in two different spec levels dependent on which transmission it was coupled to.

The MT version that came equipped with the J160 6-speed manual transmission featured larger diameter titanium intake valves measuring 35mm, larger exhaust valves measuring 29.5mm also made from titanium, a larger 33mm bucket and a compression ratio of 11.5:1. It made 210 PS (154 kW; 207 hp) at 7,600 rpm and 22.0 kg·m (216 N·m) at 6,400 rpm

The 6 spd is geared a bit lower overall, so it looks like I might need to change rear gearing again
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th
J160: 3.874 2.175 1.484 1.223 1.000 0.869
W58: 3.285 1.894 1.275 1.000 0.783

[4x4mike]

Hell, I'll let you drive it



I guess I missed the part where you said you were adding a roll cage :fangers:

Just kidding, kind of. I just got excited there was a new post.

The floor of the Celica looks really good. It seems when I see pictures like that it's to fix bad rust or damage from a collision.

[corax]

I guess I missed the part where you said you were adding a roll cage :fangers:


Bwahahaha.
Actually though, a rear cage is on the list of projects - I need new rear upper shock mounts (I have less than an inch of rebound right now), and I can tie the upper mounts into a rear cage to run longer shocks ;)

[corax]

some work from last year . . .
chassis gutted and stitch welded to stiffen things up a bit
http://i.imgur.com/UzqdlFK.jpg

a little bit of harness work - every circuit was stripped and a better harness was created the way I wanted it done
every branch was cable laced (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_lacing) for durability before being covered
http://i.imgur.com/8xpCi72.jpg

3SGE BEAMS getting test fitted
http://i.imgur.com/e6HOXjL.jpg

finished product
http://i.imgur.com/2JW7rYG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oVJXQ8O.jpg

couple pics, just because
http://i.imgur.com/vJ88Gcr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fBS2rs3.jpg