Couple Suspension Questions

[91ToyTrck]

First off I drive a '91 xcab v6 5spd with 33x10.50 bfg ats.

I'm starting to save to purchase some suspension upgrades and wanted a few facts and opinions. I'm thinking of purchasing a complete OME suspension (shocks, torsion bars, steering stabalizer, and rear springs - along with some bj spacers). Is this a good setup or would there be an easier and cheaper way to gain as much or more suspension performance.

I'm sure some are going to suggest the 63 chevy springs, but I don't have a welder or tthe experience to do something like that on my DD. I'm looking for easier the better when it comes to upgrades, but still good performance for the weekend.

The front is basic because of keeping the IFS. I already have manual hubs (stock), removed swaybar, picking up low pro compression buumpstops, sonoransteel ifs truss, and idler arm truss. I'm also looking for some shocks. Suggestions?
PS: Budbuilt skid, belly, and crossmember too.

The rear has always boggled me because of the options. ome springs, replacement factory springs, shackle lift, deaver 3 leaf aal, and some combination. Whats the best suspension that isn't going to kill my wallet and offer great travel and performance? Besides the shackle lift they are all about the same price. I'm also adding a u-bolt flip kit and shocks mounted like / \. Suggestions?

Thanks in Advanced

Chris

[91ToyTrck]

I know this is a new site, but surely one of my newly aquired friends over here have to have some ideas, thaughts, or ideas for me.

[91ToyTrck]

* ideas, thaughts, or suggestions *

I'm Tired

[slosurfer]

I don't know much about the rear (as I have coils), but for the front, I would suggest keeping the stock tbars for now unless you have a really heavy winch bumper combo. Also if going with bj spacers, you will only need the low pro compression bumpstops. The droop (upper bumpstops) should stay stock if not shimmed a little. For front shocks the OME N98 shocks are what I have and I have been happy with them. Seems like you have a good list going. :thumbup:

[blknblu]

Here is what I did. BJ spacer up front with Rancho shocks to maximize travel. Low profile compression bumpstops and stock extension bumpstops. Stock t bars. Downey 3 inch lift springs in the rear with stock shackles and 3 different sets of shocks because I'm an idiot.

Here's why: The ball joint spacers give you options. You can install them and 1) reset the t bars to stock setting and gain 1.5 inches of lift with the same ride as before the install 2) reset the t bars BELOW stock setting and maintain current height (or a bit lower if you desire) and gain a bunch of articulation and softer ride or 3) reset t bars above stock setting and gain maximum lift but sacrifice travel and ride quality. You DON'T need heavier/thicker t bars. They don't "lift" anything. They only provide a higher spring rate (read "stiffer") to provide added load carrying ability. Perhaps useful with a heavy aftermarket bumper and winch.

In back I got the Downey's based solely on economics. At time of purchase they were $186.50 a PAIR. OME were $200-210 EACH. I see that currently Downey is up to $199/pr and OME down to $145-169 each depending on medium or heavy duty. There is also Alcan with a very good reputation and Deaver that you seem to have some info on. Looks like you have to contact Alcan for a quote and I couldn't really get any straight poop on our application from Deaver but you could check with Schaefer as I think he is a dealer. People on the web rag on the Downey's but frankly I'm happy with them. They hold the truck up, flex OK and have generally held up so far. They have 2 and 3 inch lift (same price). I got the 3 and they did settle an inch but I also have the 4runner top and a 135# aftermarket rear bumper on it. For lots of flex we pretty much have to go with the longer springs (ie chevy/mazda swap) otherwise you can gain some with the shock mount idea you mentioned and longer shackles but not much. I stuck with my stock shackles as I just wanted to see where I would end up just with the springs first and for now I'm good with it.

The story on the 3 sets of rear shocks: set 1, me putting the cart before the horse, set 2, I don't know how to use a tape measure, and set 3, ahhh just right!!. You asked in another thread about Rancho's and I think most who have them is due to the ready availability of info on comp/ext measurements. They also come in at a decent price point. But Rancho's aren't web cool. Personally I think shocks are about the same in certain price ranges. There are $25-50, $75-100, and $150-the $ky is the limit. Good luck.

[91ToyTrck]

So, What are some suggestions on shocks? I can get the Ranchos at the local parts store and probably get a hook up on because of the people that work there. Should I buy Ranchos all around for the truck including the steering stabalizer? Do they even make them for my year truck?

I'm not against the Downey Springs. I'm not really partiial to any one spring over another. I'm basically looking for the best performance at the best price. I'm not a cheap person but I also don't agree with spending twice as much for the same performance. I have been looking at every option. I'm planning on adding an aftermarket rear bumper as well to my truck. It's really a toss up between the Downey and OME springs because I want total replacement.

[dlbrunner]

The Downey torsions are 26 mm
The OME torsions are 24.5mm (IIRC)
The Stock torsions are 22 mm (or 23?)
The OME are inbetween the Downeys and Stock. I am going to go against the popular opinion and throw my view out here.. I ran the Downey's on my 89 Xtracab and I loved them for a couple of reasons.
1. Most of the wheeling I did (and still do a little of) was long range on dirt (300 miles per trip on dirt) and over washboard or uneven roads, the shocks would begin to fade with the stock bars, they would also heat up like you would not believe.

2. The IFS on that generation of truck has no real flex per say, but on rougher trails where you are moving slow, I try to pick lines that keep the front end somewhat level and make the back do more of the work. While not always possible it can help. Also when you are cycling the suspension, the weight of the truck twisted up will move the IFS components. The weight and force of the vehicle will stuff one of the tires close to the bumpstop, even in slow stuff, I had this happen with the downey's, the droop tire will actually fall to its limit because the spring is pushing the components in the downward direction.

3. Even without a bumper or winch the front end can bottom out when slowly dropping over a small ledge, just from the rolling momentum. This alwyays spooked me.

4. With the Downey's I only cranked in about 3/4 to 1" of lift. Since I did not apply the max preload, I did not experience the stiff ride that a lot mention. I noticed no difference while driving on road, but off road they were a definite improvement.

You really need to look at your own application. If you are going to do day trip type stuff with an emphisis in crawling, the less stiff units might be best. If you go for a long weekend and load up with gear, then the heavier duty spring might be your choice.

When you replace the torsions, don't forget to order the long adjusting nuts. I got mine from the stealer. They tend to break during disassembly.

Now for the disclaimers-
I did not wheel the p/u in as many rocky/flexy conditions like I have with the 4runner. so I have no field experience with stiffer torsions on the 4runner.

Downey makes desert racing stuff, high speed, jumps etc... so the suspensions have different requirements on those applications. The guys who are out crawling every weekend probably notice the small amount of flex lost by running stiffer bars, I contest it can't be all that much, but in that realm every inch counts. (as I found out last weekend)

[91ToyTrck]

I'm really recieving a lot of good information from this thread. I really appriciate the facts and life experiences that everyone has thrown into this topiic as well. I had yet another shock question (actually two) :

All dealing with Rancho
1. what length for the front? or part #? I'm not going above 2" on the front...probably only 1.5"
2. Since I'm planning on doing the shock relocation /\ and u-bolt flip kit, should I go ahead and purchase the adjustables? I'm buying the kit from Budbuilt that allows for many different mounting points and I could move the shock out (more straight) for daily driving and then more in (more angled) for offroad use. I'm sure once I have it one way I'll leave it, but are the adjustables really worth it over a basic shock?
3. Does Rancho make a steering stabalizer for my year truck?

Is it dumb to want the same shock all the way around a vehicle? I had Ranchos before but only for breif moment, but never disliked them. I might be able to catch a deal buying all them from one place 8-)

[blknblu]

All dealing with Rancho
1. what length for the front? or part #? I'm not going above 2" on the front...probably only 1.5"
2. Since I'm planning on doing the shock relocation /\ and u-bolt flip kit, should I go ahead and purchase the adjustables? I'm buying the kit from Budbuilt that allows for many different mounting points and I could move the shock out (more straight) for daily driving and then more in (more angled) for offroad use. I'm sure once I have it one way I'll leave it, but are the adjustables really worth it over a basic shock?
3. Does Rancho make a steering stabalizer for my year truck?



Not sure if I'm reading you right, but are you thinking "adjustable shock" means adjustable length? They mean adjustable firmness. I'd suggest you get your shock relocation kit in place then stuff and droop BOTH sides of your truck and measure your ext/comp numbers and go from there. You can drive around with your old shocks for a couple days if need be if you have to wait for some shocks to be shipped. One of my 3 sets of shocks stories is related to this: My shock mount points are not the same on driver and passenger side so of course I stuffed and drooped the longer side and pronounced it good, ordered shocks, installed them, went for a test spin around the neighborhood and on the first bump I come to... THUNNNKK!!! With that mod you're planning, I'm thinking you should be equally split but you never know. Remember what I forgot, " measure twice and cut (buy) once"

[91ToyTrck]

I was thinking that but I don't know why. I guess because I write these things while I'm at work in a daze sometimes. I don't see why the Rancho wouldn't be a good buy for me. I ran them and Superlift shocks on my '92 and I never had a problem out of them.

No one has answered my other question yet. Do they make a steering stabalizer to go along with the shocks? and What should I buy per front and rear?

[norcalsvx]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid223/p832d1d997a0c1261b192812d15ffc588/eadda4ed.jpg

i run the MOE torsions, BJ spacers, TC brace, Downey idler brace and dual shock set up, my rear is all stock with 33x10.50's bfg muds works great for me

[91ToyTrck]

I'm soon to have some of those pieces on my truck. I ment to run down to Advanced and ask about the Ranchos, but I didn't have the time. Which ones would yall suggest I purchase for the front and rear?

[slosurfer]

I would not suggest the rancho adjustables for the front because they are basically a single valve stage that you can adjust, rather than a multiple valve stages that work in compression and rebound. I know I saw somewhere what ranchos work in the front with IFS, I will try to find the # later tonight. ONce again, I don't know what ones for the rear of a truck.

[91ToyTrck]

I appriciate you looking ... are we talking 5000s , 9000s , or RSXs ?

That's more what I was meaning about type of Rancho. I don't know which kind are better. I only used my truck on the road when I had the Ranchos, but I'm sure a certain type is better for a DD/Trail rig.

[blknblu]

Rancho application guide for stabilizers
http://www.gorancho.com/flash/docs/2005_steering_stabilizer.pdf
Rancho application guide for shocks
http://www.gorancho.com/flash/docs/2005_shocks.pdf
Rancho shock specifications by part #
http://www.gorancho.com/flash/docs/2005_specifications.pdf

I've got 5000's. IMO you don't need that other stuff. Others may disagree. 5167 for the front. Rears will depend on your mount relocation install. Again, I'd suggest you install that first and take actual measurements.

[slosurfer]

I would agree with the 5167 for the front, I only use the 9000's (adjustables) on the rear of mine because of the variety of uses that I use the 4runner for.

[91ToyTrck]

I'm definately planning on installing the relocation with the stock shocks and then having a friend help me take some measurements. I want to make sure that I have enough shock to keep the flex going as far as possible.

I really appriciate the links to the Rancho sites. Thank you very much.

How do you like the ride offroad with the Ranchos? Do you get good travel from your suspension?