Project Headgasket (finally)

[slosurfer]

So, after a little over a year, I am finally going to dive into my headgasket repair. I'm looking over the fsm now and will probably start tearing down today (work is slow right now). I have a few questions right off the bat, and I know I will have more questions as I go along.

1. Parts list?
I was thinking of getting this gasket kit from Parts Dinosaur, thoughts? http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product122.html

What about their head bolt kit? Any good or look for something else? http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product248.html

I did the timing belt/water pump stuff about 30,000 miles ago, so I will probably be replacing some of those as well.

Anything I am not thinking of?

2. Fluid question... I think I have very minimal fluid mixing (oil and coolant), what do I do about cleaning it out? I know I will drain everything to do the repair, but what steps are needed to clean everything out?

3. Any tips, tricks, links that might help me would be greatly appreciated. :wrenchin:

I plan on using tons of baggies, blue tape, and pictures. Everything will be getting tagged and bagged (especially since I don't even have parts yet).

[Obi..]

Knock Sensor and vac lines also. Possibly also the intake tube (rubber) accordian that goes from the airbox to the intake. It tends to crack along the 6-o-clock position. As long as you're gonna be in there, same for the PITA hose at the back of the valley where the vac line valves, etc are.

Far better to just go ahead and spend a little on them since you don't want to get it all done to find out 3000 miles down the road one died.

Also plan on needing replacement injector harness clips. THey tend to disintegrate when removed after being that old. There's an OE# for them, you get the harness w/ the connectors, just pop the pin clip out so you can remove the new pins and just re-pin your's in.

[Crinale]

Hopefully your cam gear bolts are not as tight as mine were, I thought i was gonna break something before that bolt came loose. My advice, loosen those bolts (you will probably need a VERY heavy duty impact, or a long cheater bar) before you pull the timing belt.

Also, there is no reason to not replace the timing belt and water pump since you will be in there anyway, and they are cheap. Otherwise, good luck! :P

I know I already said this on facebook, but if you come across anything you need, I still have my 91 and there are a few good parts still in the engine.

[slosurfer]

grrrrr... need to find my impact gun! The bolt for the power steering pulley isn't reverse thread is it? Snapped my strap wrench trying to get it off!

also, where the fuck and how the fuck do you get to the block coolant drain bolt?

[04 Rocko Taco]

not a lot of help Stover, but as far as the fluid drain it all, new cheap oil, and just water in the radiator, then drive it a 100 miles or so, and change again, this time put in nice oil, and coolant.

[YotaFun]

Chris,
The kit looks decent, I will look at work tomorrow to make sure its not missing anything.

Def go ahead and replace the belt and pump, your in there so might as well.

Rocko Chris hit the nail on the head for fluids.
Throw in some cheap oil and just water and get it running, then drain all and refill.
I personally would do it twice, but I am one who goes overboard with things like that.

You pretty much got the process down it looks like, just take your time, your not flat rating this job so no need to rush, go over all your vac lines and make sure none of them need replacing, I am already have a few rolls of vac lines sitting waiting to be put on the Runner.

Also someone mentioned the Knock sensor harness, your def going to want that, it will break, they always do, the 3.0 and the 3.4

[slosurfer]

Awesome, thanks for the tips! :thumbup:

Definitely trying to take it slow. It's the little things that piss me off, like wasting tons of time trying to find the block coolant plug (only to just pull the lower drain hose so I could get the radiator out), and the stupid power steering pulley bolt that won't come undone. Seriously, I snapped the strap on my strap wrench trying to undo that bolt! Hoping that my impact gun will work (and that I can find my gun in storage).

[stormtaco]

well it is about time slow poke, i thought you were going to turn it into yard art :rofl:

[slosurfer]

:lol: :lol: :lol: Ass! :D

[4x4mike]

If need be and you want to pay shipping I can mail you down an impact. It's a full sized 1/2" type so keep that in mind if space is an issue. I've been through many impacts through the years. Some were junk others needed more air than I could give it. I've settled on an IR 231C which is nice and cheap for the amount of power it has (at 100 psi and 30 gallons). I've also got an IR TI-2135 and it's super powerful and has been worth the money it cost.

[slosurfer]

Thanks Mike, I found my impact gun (it was sitting in storage with other car stuff). Couldn't get that pulley nut off with my compressor at 120psi, but it popped right off when I hooked it up to my co2 tank at 200psi. :wrenchin: Now to get the damn pulley off :(

[paddlenbike]

Chris, be on the lookout for block erosion where the gasket blew and cylinder gasses passed between cylinders. Myself and many others got free 3.0 engine blocks from Toyota for this reason. You might be able to take a good straight edge and at least do a rudimentary check before you start slapping headgaskets on.

[4x4mike]

Thanks Mike, I found my impact gun (it was sitting in storage with other car stuff). Couldn't get that pulley nut off with my compressor at 120psi, but it popped right off when I hooked it up to my co2 tank at 200psi. :wrenchin: Now to get the damn pulley off :(


200PSI! Git'r dun.

[Crinale]

damn, 200psi?? good thing it didn't blow up XD

[slosurfer]

Pulled the sparkplugs. #6 was a little damp (not bad), but #1 had coolant pour out when I pulled it!



200PSI! Git'r dun.


I think the main problem is that all my lines and fittings are 1/4" and should be 1/2", but all my work stuff is 1/4". I need to get a dedicated air line with 1/2" fittings. Hoses are rated well over 200 psi as well as the gun

[slosurfer]

I guess I will find out more when I tear it down more, but here's how the spark plugs read... Should I be worried?

1. Totally wet! Coolant poured out when I pulled it!
2. Normal
3. Dry, but heavy deposits
4. Normal
5. Dry, but some deposits
6. Kind of wet, assumed it was coolant (this was the first I pulled and expected it to be wet, since that is the one that the HG usually blows in)

[4x4mike]

I got your message about wiring. We usually go down in November but I'm not the one that keeps the calendar. I let you know if I find out anything but by all means, don't wait on me.

[CJM]

1 and 6 def mean blown HG of course. The deposits on the others could just be normal or a tiny bit of coolant made its way there.

Have the head checked and possibly decked I was you.

[jrallan26]

Air tools are your friend.

[slosurfer]

My air gun and the co2 turned up to 225psi will not budge the cam bolts or crankshaft bolt. My valve on the co2 tank is now broken so I can't turn it up to 300psi. :( Need to find a good compressor. FYI, my hose is rated to 300psi, so don't freak out. That's how I got the crankshaft bolt off to do my timing belt last time

[stormtaco]

use some heat on it map gas works better too
or put the ratchet on it hook a chain to it and the tacoma and hall ass should come off then :rofl:

[YotaFun]

Not recommended, but you can also take a breaker bar thats long enough to lay on the frame and tap the starter over, not going to lie, when I do timing belts in the trucks and runners thats what I do...

[DHC6twinotter]

When I did the timing belt on my 2nd gen, I built one of those tools to keep the crank from turning. It worked great for keeping the crank from turning, but I still had put a pipe on the end of a breaker bar, and I had to literally hang off the breaker bar to break the bolt loose. I broke a couple of sockets, but it finally gave.

I never removed the cam bolts on my 2nd gen, but when I did the ones on my 3rd gen, I used one of those cam tools to keep the cam sprocket from turning.

[slosurfer]

Not recommended, but you can also take a breaker bar thats long enough to lay on the frame and tap the starter over, not going to lie, when I do timing belts in the trucks and runners thats what I do...


That's what I did with the van, but it's a manual. does that trick work with autos?



When I did the timing belt on my 2nd gen, I built one of those tools to keep the crank from turning. It worked great for keeping the crank from turning, but I still had put a pipe on the end of a breaker bar, and I had to literally hang off the breaker bar to break the bolt loose. I broke a couple of sockets, but it finally gave.

I never removed the cam bolts on my 2nd gen, but when I did the ones on my 3rd gen, I used one of those cam tools to keep the cam sprocket from turning.


I have a tool I built somewhere too for the crankshaft pulley that I need to find

[YotaFun]

Yeah, my trucks and auto, keep it in park and tap the starter like you were starting the truck normally, just tap and your good, if that doesn't do it, its time to get a little heat on it

[Crinale]

Chris - I checked and the one I had a new intake elbow on was my short lived silver one.. So I do not have one worth using. Sorry.

[slosurfer]

Chris - I checked and the one I had a new intake elbow on was my short lived silver one.. So I do not have one worth using. Sorry.


Thanks for checking!

Here's how it sits as of this morning. Going to really tackle the camshaft bolts and crankshaft bolt today (have to at this point). Also, going to have to tackle the exhaust, been soaking what I can reach with pb blaster... wish me luck

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-29_17-39-38_795.jpg


Tell me about injectors. What do I need to do since I have them out? Also, the #1 injector had a broken piece, not sure if that was a problem or not.(same cylinder that had fluid pour out when I pulled the sparkplug)
Here's a pic of it

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-29_17-40-45_531.jpg


I will get pics of how the camshaft area looks on both sides. It's interesting what areas are really clean and where it is really dirty

[slosurfer]

Finally got the camshaft pulley bolts off! Tried impact gun over 200psi, heat, etc... Finally, got it using my own redneck strap wrench. Broke loose surprisingly easy with just a 3' cheater pipe.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-30_12-29-15_549.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-30_12-39-53_287.jpg

[rworegon]

Send those injectors out to www.witchhunter.com (http://www.witchhunter.com) for cleaning. They'll pre-test, clean them, flow test, and replace gaskets for $21 per injector. I've used them and they do great work.

[DHC6twinotter]

Chris, plastic caps on my injectors were broke too, although not as bad as yours. Mine were mostly just cracked, but still hanging on to the injectors. The dealer doesn't sell just the caps, but I was able to buy the caps from the place rworegon mentioned.

[slosurfer]

Thanks for the link!

Got the other head off yesterday! #6 leaked as well (not as bad as #1)

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-31_14-17-07_75.jpg

This bolt gave me a fit for hours, finally went and got a rounded off bolt kit and finally got it off. It connected the exhaust to the exhaust manifold and was the innermost one, with no way to reach it with a grinder or saw. Wish I would have bought the bolt kit sooner!

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-31_13-04-45_313.jpg


Now that I have the heads off, not sure what to do. Can I take it to a place just like they are to be cleaned, checked, valves checked, lifters, etc... or should I break it down myself. Kind of hoping that I can take it somewhere to have it fully gone over since it has 144,000 on it and has never been messed with. Thoughts/advice?

[slosurfer]

#1

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-30_17-48-34_645.jpg

#6

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-31_14-16-49_531.jpg

[paddlenbike]

When I did the headgasket on the Supra, I took the entire cylinder head to a shop because it needed to be decked very precisely for a metal headgasket. I also paid to have them vacuum test the head to check for any valve leaks. They didn't find any, so I just replaced the valve stem seals for good measure and cleaned up what little carbon deposits were there. Runs over 7000 RPMs has a way of keeping the valves clean, ya know? :) The entire shop bill was pretty low.

[slosurfer]

When I did the headgasket on the Supra, I took the entire cylinder head to a shop because it needed to be decked very precisely for a metal headgasket. I also paid to have them vacuum test the head to check for any valve leaks. They didn't find any, so I just replaced the valve stem seals for good measure and cleaned up what little carbon deposits were there. Runs over 7000 RPMs has a way of keeping the valves clean, ya know? :) The entire shop bill was pretty low.


Did you take it all apart yourself and clean and check the valves, lifters, springs, bushings, etc... with the micrometers and angle gauges? Check for valve regrind etc? Or did they do all that?

I was already planning on having it decked, just wondering if I should have someone go through all that too

[paddlenbike]

It was pretty easy to take apart. In my case it was a Toyota inline-6 with double overhead cams, so the process was basically to unbolt the camshaft bearing caps in a specified sequence and remove the cams, and then the valves will basically slide out. I never worked on my 3vz-e, so just confirm when you loosen the camshaft caps that the spring pressure pushing on the valves does not launch the camshaft. From there just keep track of where each valve goes, clean with a brass brush, and reassemble with new valve stem seals.

The vacuum test will reveal if the valve seats need to be ground-down. That's probably something best left for the professional.

If the cost of your repair approaches $600-700 or so, you might want to think about dropping in a 5VZ. I've seen them go for $800 because they aren't in demand.

[slosurfer]

It was pretty easy to take apart. In my case it was a Toyota inline-6 with double overhead cams, so the process was basically to unbolt the camshaft bearing caps in a specified sequence and remove the cams, and then the valves will basically slide out. I never worked on my 3vz-e, so just confirm when you loosen the camshaft caps that the spring pressure pushing on the valves does not launch the camshaft. From there just keep track of where each valve goes, clean with a brass brush, and reassemble with new valve stem seals.

The vacuum test will reveal if the valve seats need to be ground-down. That's probably something best left for the professional.

If the cost of your repair approaches $600-700 or so, you might want to think about dropping in a 5VZ. I've seen them go for $800 because they aren't in demand.


Cams are already pulled. The lifters and shims can be pulled out by hand, but the rest is held in by keepers (supposedly need an SST to pull them). Going to try to get some quotes to have them Cleaned, pressure tested, resurfaced heads with valve job including adjustment

[paddlenbike]

2E engine toyota removing valve keeper valve spring the easy way.mpg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MzVvLNC6xk#)

[CJM]

Honestly: If your already in there, see whatt he cost of a reconditioned head is from the shop. They guarantee them and they are fully rebuilt, you just give them your core.

Why mess with it later when you can have pretty much brand spanking new ones for a bit more money?

[slosurfer]

Hmmm... Looks like he is just breaking stuff...

[paddlenbike]

Chris, go to youtube and search "toyota valve keepers" and you will find several similar videos.

[rworegon]

Call your local Toyota dealer and ask what machine shop they send head work out to....very few dealers do it inhouse.

Here it was NAPA and I took in the heads with the lifters still in them, the cams, the cam shaft bearing caps, etc. for the 5vz-fe heads along with the new valve stem seals. They pressure tested them for leaks, tore them down, cleaned them, inspected valves, installed new valve stems, checked valve clearance, and resurfaced them for about $200 out-the-door. I had to pop the cams back out to reinstall the heads.

[rworegon]

A couple of other things I'd suggest: Reseal that water bypass tube in the valley between the cylinder banks, replace the knock sensor wire, and any hard-to-get-to water or vacuum hoses.

[slosurfer]

Call your local Toyota dealer and ask what machine shop the send head work out to....very few dealers do it inhouse.

Here it was NAPA and I took in the heads with the lifters still in them, the cams, the cam shaft bearing caps, etc. for the 5vz-fe heads along with the new valve stem seals. They pressure tested them for leaks, tore them down, cleaned them, inspected valves, installed new valve stems, checked valve clearance, and resurfaced them for about $200 out-the-door. I had to pop the cams back out to reinstall the heads.

That's about the price I have been seeing online, and that's exactly what I want to have done. Didn't even think of having to reinstall the cams back on them before taking them in, I'll have to check with them on that when I call.



A couple of other things I'd suggest: Reseal that water bypass tube in the valley between the cylinder banks, replace the knock sensor wire, and any hard-to-get-to water or vacuum hoses.


Yep, I was already looking at that bypass tube and thinking of doing just that. Knock sensor wire is also on the list, and I was going to start figuring out what water hoses to replace back there.



Honestly: If your already in there, see whatt he cost of a reconditioned head is from the shop. They guarantee them and they are fully rebuilt, you just give them your core.
Why mess with it later when you can have pretty much brand spanking new ones for a bit more money?


Basically, that is what is being done, except they thoroughly go through everything and replace what needs to be replaced, and I keep my head

[YotaFun]

Call your local Toyota dealer and ask what machine shop the send head work out to....very few dealers do it inhouse.



I don't know about dealers out there but my dealer and dealers around here haven't sent there stuff to a machine shop in ages, it gets replaced (not my decision) talk to a few local mechanics, I am sure there are a few good shops around you.

[rworegon]

I don't know about dealers out there but my dealer and dealers around here haven't sent there stuff to a machine shop in ages, it gets replaced (not my decision) talk to a few local mechanics, I am sure there are a few good shops around you.


Yea, the dealer here is probably the same. They did give a recommendation to their credit.

[YotaFun]

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-10-31_14-17-07_75.jpg


Sorry for the more off topic, but that water pump is the same one used on the 3.4l
I picked up a water pump gasket for a friend and noticed that on the package it said 90-95 3vz...
It just clicked that they are the same.

[slosurfer]

Wow, just got a quote to have the heads fully gone through and adjusted for $750 :yikes: I believe that he said that included new exhaust valves, since he assumed it would need them.


Another shop quoted me about $100 each to have them cleaned, visually inspected, and resurface the head (goes from there if they need to tear into it)....

Sucks that I keep hearing of prices on the internet of ~$100 per head to have them fully done

Edit: Another one $110 to surface it (no visual inspection or anything) and an extra $50 to pressure test it

[Crinale]

usually when people talk about $100 each they are getting a hookup from a friend or colleague..

[slosurfer]

Place in Morro Bay will machine the heads and look for cracks for $80 for both, came recommended from a shop that I use. No pressure test, but it's a start and a good price.

[mastacox]

Take a look at Clearwater Cylinder Heads (www.cylinder-heads.com (http://www.cylinder-heads.com)) if you're having trouble getting any good rebuild options. They sell remanufactured (rebuilt to Toyota factory spec) cylinder heads for the 3VZ-E for $275/ea. and include return shipping labels for your old ones as a core. I got my heads from them and they were a breeze to work with.

Here's the 3VZ-E heads:
http://cylinder-heads.com/details.cfm?itemid=2255

[slosurfer]

Thanks, I'll check that place out!

On another note, I need to clean the block surface and piston surfaces, as well as the cylinder walls. There is surface rust on the two cylinder walls that were leaking, what is the best way to clean that? Internet is seeming to say steel wool and wd-40 or penetrating oil. Just wanted to double check before I started on that.

[rworegon]

When I did my HG here is how I cleaned the block and pistons:
- Plugged the oil and water ports with chunks of lint free rags packed tightly just below the working surface....just be careful to get it real snug so they don't fall into the block
- Coated the block surface with carb cleaner (HG cleaner is available, but carb cleaner worked good)
- Fired up the shop vac and gently scrapped the block surface with a gasket scrapper and rotated the crank clockwise until each piston came to the top and scrapped them off

My cylinder wall only had a light coat of surface rust so a rag and the carb cleaner (or wd-40) took that off. Not sure the best way to attack yours.

I did the final cleaning with isopropol alcohol to get all the oils off before setting the fresh HG. Pull all the galley rags before re-assembly! :)

Jaime may have mentioned how he cleaned his in his thread:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=2241.0

[slosurfer]

thanks rworegon!

Checked with a few mechs and they said steel wool and pb blaster should work, just stuff the bottom of the cylinder good to catch anything


Also, looks like I found a hook up for the heads to get decked and pressure tested. Also, the guy next to my dad's shop will help me adjust the valves. Just need to install the cams when I get the heads back and take them down to him

[mastacox]

Honestly I'd avoid using steel wool on your cylinder wall unless you're using really fine stuff or you have really bad rust. WD-40 and a rag should get any surface rust out, and it won't affect your factory hone/cross-hatch. Steel wool could scuff the surface and I'd be worried about any scratching.

[slosurfer]

Yeah, it's the really fine stuff. It is a little more than surface rust so I need to get it and make sure it isn't pitted. The dude isn't going to start on the head until I let him know the cylinder walls and block surfaces are good to go. I should be able to do.that this weekend

[Obi..]

*Ohh-ohh, I forgot to mention, when you have the chance since you already have the plenum off, pull it apart and clean the crap out of it. I pulled my air injection tube off on the tune-up and the entire inside shaft for it was all carboned up and the two outlet holes were barely open. I got about a kid's superball size wad of basically carbon encrusted tar out of it and a whole lot more from soaking it. The thing jumps to redline so much better after doing it.

I might have to come visit ya down there soon to lend a hand. :D
*Visit Lil'Bro and Sis-n-Law @ same time.**Collect my damned laptop/cutting board ya owe me too. :flipoff:

[Obi..]

*Ya can still grab a 3.4w/Trans or 4.0/Trans and if ya got the right 340 in there just swap over the cases.


Just so it's been said and put out there for all to see you're as insane as I am for saving this engine. ~Freight to Creswell Oregon and letting someone else tackle it's not too much more. ;)

:ban:

[slosurfer]

Looks like this thread may end with no HG repair...

Cleaned the rust out of cylinder 1....
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-11-05_12-27-36_683.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/2012-11-05_12-27-53_107.jpg

pitted pretty bad!

Also, the headshop leak tested the heads and many of the valves leaked, so they need valve jobs, not just a clean and decking...

Time to start researching options

[paddlenbike]

3.4

I honestly think you would be money ahead, not to mention you'll like the power and gas mileage a whole lot more.

[slosurfer]

3.4

I honestly think you would be money ahead, not to mention you'll like the power and gas mileage a whole lot more.


After just quickly looking at the cost of reman 3.0 short and long blocks, yeah, I kind of think so. Wiring kind of scares me, but there are a couple places that sell custom harnesses

[slosurfer]

wait, where did those links go you posted?

[paddlenbike]

I deleted them because you'll want more than just the block and heads...you'll want a complete engine with ECU. The links I sent were just block and head, but here they were:
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/3387493240.html
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/3387491596.html

[paddlenbike]

I did a quick search and around a grand seems to be the typical price. Here's one in Fresno that went for under $900 with 113,000 miles.
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178612

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w272/bart671/5vze007.jpg

[YotaFun]

I have an engine harness and ECU I will selling eventually for a 97 4Runner....
Wanted to sell it with the engine but if this is the direction you want to go, maybe we can work something out!

[corax]

Wiring kind of scares me, but there are a couple places that sell custom harnesses


I'm sure you've already seen or heard about Toy Only Swaps (http://www.toyonlyswaps.com/) - I dealt with them about 1.5 yrs ago buying a used transmission for the 4runner through CL. The trans made noise, but I honestly don't think they knew that and I got no hassle getting my money back. FWIW, the owner seemed to me like a real stand-up guy that wanted to build a good reputation.

[slosurfer]

I have an engine harness and ECU I will selling eventually for a 97 4Runner....
Wanted to sell it with the engine but if this is the direction you want to go, maybe we can work something out!


Thanks dude! Right now, I have a lot of researching to do first. I really would like a v8, but the ease of the 3.4 swap makes it seem like the more reasonable route to go.



I'm sure you've already seen or heard about Toy Only Swaps (http://www.toyonlyswaps.com/) - I dealt with them about 1.5 yrs ago buying a used transmission for the 4runner through CL. The trans made noise, but I honestly don't think they knew that and I got no hassle getting my money back. FWIW, the owner seemed to me like a real stand-up guy that wanted to build a good reputation.


Yes, I was looking at them yesterday. I like the fact that they are in CA, and using their wiring harness and crossover pipe, might save me a lot of time and headache.

[paddlenbike]

A 3.4 would really make a nice addition to your 4Runner Chris. And down the road you can go ballz out and drop on a supercharger. :devil:

I saw a 1991 2nd gen with the factory spare tire cover yesterday at a detailing shop. It was the same color as yours, in absolutely mint condition and the only mods were a leveling kit and a Toyota brushguard in the front. Reminded me how good these trucks look.

[Obi..]

^Ditto.* Reminder though, he don't care if his Runner looks pretty. He replied once upon a time to one of my posts that his solution was a thorough coating of dirt and dust.

**25% NSFW*
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gEJm1FCXJ9E/UJl0ofV2uvI/AAAAAAAABWQ/gVm50NNq4no/s500/Waterboy_2.jpg

Let me know if ya do wanna make it pretty, I got a good parts supplier now who's easier to deal with than a couple of others.

[Obi..]

:D :ban:
http://img.fw1.biz/resize/63521/1.png/300/300/0/FREE%20SHIPPING
http://swapit.gov.au/images/news/ERIC_lockup3-m.jpg
http://www.swapitqld.org.au/imageGen.ashx?image=%2Fmedia%2F7723%2Fbig_for_smal l.jpg&width=546&height=325
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_V9xRK7-7br4/RvdKmX5jSGI/AAAAAAAAAfM/wNJkgwGWUcI/s1600/Swap+it+like+it%27s+hot+banner+black+n+white.png
http://www.interstateteam.com/images/project/swapit_proj_MASTER.jpg

[Obi..]

I'm sure you've already seen or heard about Toy Only Swaps (http://www.toyonlyswaps.com/) - I dealt with them about 1.5 yrs ago buying a used transmission for the 4runner through CL. The trans made noise, but I honestly don't think they knew that and I got no hassle getting my money back. FWIW, the owner seemed to me like a real stand-up guy that wanted to build a good reputation.


Yes, I was looking at them yesterday. I like the fact that they are in CA, and using their wiring harness and crossover pipe, might save me a lot of time and headache.


*Justin's shop is in Creswell, Oregon. FWIW I just sent him an inquiry about a 3.4 Swap for mine. Might be an idea to give you my running engine and throw in a 3.4?? (Seeing as I might keep mine instead of buying new. Just an idea.)

[slosurfer]

Yeah, I'm not sure why I was thinking they were in CA :laugh: Long day yesterday....

and, thanks, but, no thanks, I always swore if the motor was done that I would never put another 3.0 back in it

[Obi..]

All good, so long as you don't pull a Cebby then we cool.

;) Hi Mike!

Bonus will be maybe by then I'll have free time and we can all hit PPHHR.

[Crinale]

All good, so long as you don't pull a Cebby then we cool.

hahaha... seriously... I do wanna wheel with your 4runner again sometime in the forseeable future XD

[paddlenbike]

I always swore if the motor was done that I would never put another 3.0 back in it


:thumbup:

[slosurfer]

so this might be a stupid question :laugh: , but how do I go about pulling the engine and trans now that the heads are off? Do I need to reinstall the heads so that I can put the engine lift hooks back on for the engine lift? Is there a way to lift the block out of there and leave the trans in place? Would it just be easier to pull the trans too?

[Crinale]

That is a good question, there has to be a way... personally I would probably just bolt a sturdy chain using the head studs and hoist it up that way, especially since this is a boat anchor now.

[Obi..]

^That, well sort-of. Two smaller chain pieces bolted into two head stud points each then the engine lift using both chains, if you can use the hoist w/ the adjustable (balancing) arm even better. Leave the trans in and unbolt it. The things weigh a lot more than you think, even compared to a 5-speed.

FWIW I talked to TOS this morning, he has a 3.0 sitting there as well as some other stuff. Give them or a local recycler a call if you still want to go 3.4.

[paddlenbike]

The writing is on the wall...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lSF-h2S23eo/UJsQNcQgarI/AAAAAAAAHhs/8A11wSLGofo/s800/SC34-2.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V5IwOIbkMLw/UJsQNai2VNI/AAAAAAAAHh0/dyk07l4fnag/s800/SC34.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TSDYqkSbvYk/UJsQNy3bpuI/AAAAAAAAHh4/lb0J2gd7ERY/s640/SSPX1505.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w0uxg1JWIjw/UJsQNaraCFI/AAAAAAAAHhw/7Mj7Pmdcdyc/s800/0307or_02z%252B1998_Toyota_4Runner.jpg

:wrenchin: :thumbup:

[YotaFun]

The writing is on the wall...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lSF-h2S23eo/UJsQNcQgarI/AAAAAAAAHhs/8A11wSLGofo/s800/SC34-2.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V5IwOIbkMLw/UJsQNai2VNI/AAAAAAAAHh0/dyk07l4fnag/s800/SC34.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TSDYqkSbvYk/UJsQNy3bpuI/AAAAAAAAHh4/lb0J2gd7ERY/s640/SSPX1505.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w0uxg1JWIjw/UJsQNaraCFI/AAAAAAAAHhw/7Mj7Pmdcdyc/s800/0307or_02z%252B1998_Toyota_4Runner.jpg

:wrenchin: :thumbup:


I wish My engine was still that clean, makes me want to keep the engine from that other Runner I have and rebuild it and then throw it in the 4Runner...

[slosurfer]

I need $3000
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=84361.0

and it's only 20 minutes away...
Maybe he needs some tile work done LOL

[04 Rocko Taco]

I need $3000
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=84361.0

and it's only 20 minutes away...
Maybe he needs some tile work done LOL


You just gotta float the 3 grand till you part out the rest of it... Come on, dooo eeeet.

[Obi..]

IIRC he sold that this Spring, the ad's from 2011. PM first before getting your hopes too high.

Another thought, ask Marlin or Mikey if they got anything sitting around?

[Marc P]

Maybe you should look at just getting a 3rd gen....they are pretty cheap these days. You would get the better motor, better suspension, and a newer rig.

[slosurfer]

IIRC he sold that this Spring, the ad's from 2011. PM first before getting your hopes too high.

Another thought, ask Marlin or Mikey if they got anything sitting around?


Last post was august this year and ut was still for sale. I will have to check.

[paddlenbike]

True, but he has a nicely modded rig that just needs an engine. I really liked my 2nd gen...a 3.4 would just make it that much sweeter.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I think 3.4 powered 2nd gen is the way to go.

[Marc P]

Not too close to you, but cheap..

http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/parts-accessories/164652.htm

[04 Rocko Taco]

Down to 700 for the motor.... not a bad deal Stover.

[Marc P]

This is what you need!! Have some of your LA homies pick this deal up quick!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/engines-trannys-t-cases-sale/1100971-5zve-3-4-swap-parts-so-cal.html

[slosurfer]

Awesome, thanks for finding these!

My main problem right now is lack of cash. We took a trip to Boston and then the big job that was supposed to start when I got back, ended up getting delayed, so I came home to no work, an election everyone was worried about, and dead vehicles. I haven't worked in 3 weeks, so I either need to find a deal that is willing to hold it for me for a few weeks, or just hold off and start looking again when we get caught up.

At least the election is over, so my phone should start ringing again. Every presidential election, I get slow until it's over. People just don't want to start a project when they don't know what's going on.

Keep posting links to deals that you find though, who knows, maybe I will find someone cool willing to work with me, so I can get this thing rolling again

[CJM]

Id do the 3.4L swap.

As for removing the 3.0 without heads: Get a tow chain and wrap it around that sucker and use a cherry picker or get creative with a sturdy tree and a block and tackle Chris.

[Obi..]

Remember my bringing up V Sport before, well, here ya go, comes w/ a 3.4 and a 5-speed. I'm sure they're down to work out terms or possibly want tile work. :D

http://slo.craigslist.org/ctd/3379288384.html

[slosurfer]

If we didn't already have a nice, comfy, stock (but very capable offroad) family vehicle (our Tacoma), then I would be more apt to go directly to a 3rd gen. I've worked hard to get the 4runner to where it is now, lifted, locked, and geared, so adding a sweet powerplant to it would be iceing on the cake. At least then, it would really start making sense to finally work toward long traveling it.

Supposedly, the guy who works next to my dad's shop could get me a 3.4 ready to go for $1250 (supposedly it has everything I need, but I'm not sure if it includes the wireharness/ecm/smog stuff etc... I will have to research more so I am more prepared of what exactly to ask him about next time I talk to him.

One other quick question, to do the 3.4 swap, should I pull the tranny and mate it up with the 3.4, or just leave it in and hook it up when I put the 3.4 in?

Once this becomes a reality, I will start an actual thread for whatever swap I do. For now, I will continue here, since this is something everyone with a 3.0 will deal with at some time :)

[paddlenbike]

I agree, a 3.4 in your truck is perfect. I look forward to reading about your buildup.

[Obi..]

You can leave the trans in until it comes time to install the engine. It's been two years and I know you do need the T100 ECU to make them work together, I cannot remember what else like torque converter, solenoids, needs changing. Then ya just undo the trans cross member, lower the trans down and back a little and install the engine. People do it different ways but me I like the engine in first, or if room, both together via a chopped front apron. Leaving the trans in just keeps things together in one pile of WTF-AM-I-THINKING? until the day you actually start the job.

Seeing the pile as one thing is less overwhelming. Hope that makes sense?

[slosurfer]

You can leave the trans in until it comes time to install the engine. It's been two years and I know you do need the T100 ECU to make them work together, I cannot remember what else like torque converter, solenoids, needs changing. Then ya just undo the trans cross member, lower the trans down and back a little and install the engine. People do it different ways but me I like the engine in first, or if room, both together via a chopped front apron. Leaving the trans in just keeps things together in one pile of WTF-AM-I-THINKING? until the day you actually start the job.

Seeing the pile as one thing is less overwhelming. Hope that makes sense?


Thanks dude! That makes sense! Plus, like I was talking with one guy at a shop today, I might as well continue with my trend of taking this motor out one piece at a time. LOL

[Crinale]

You can leave the trans in until it comes time to install the engine. It's been two years and I know you do need the T100 ECU to make them work together, I cannot remember what else like torque converter, solenoids, needs changing. Then ya just undo the trans cross member, lower the trans down and back a little and install the engine. People do it different ways but me I like the engine in first, or if room, both together via a chopped front apron. Leaving the trans in just keeps things together in one pile of WTF-AM-I-THINKING? until the day you actually start the job.

Seeing the pile as one thing is less overwhelming. Hope that makes sense?


Thanks dude! That makes sense! Plus, like I was talking with one guy at a shop today, I might as well continue with my trend of taking this motor out one piece at a time. LOL


hahaha... gonna pull out the crank so you can remove the pistons and rods and just have an empty block bolted to your transmission? XD

[rworegon]

Thanks dude! That makes sense! Plus, like I was talking with one guy at a shop today, I might as well continue with my trend of taking this motor out one piece at a time. LOL


Seems Johnny Cash built one a piece at a time, might as well take yours out one small piece at a time. :)

[YotaFun]

hahaha... gonna pull out the crank so you can remove the pistons and rods and just have an empty block bolted to your transmission? XD


Be easier to clean out the cyl walls and hone them out if there is no pitting.

[Obi..]

Be easier to clean out the cyl walls and hone them out if there is no pitting.




Be easier to throw a set of stainless cylinder sleeves if there is pitting.

[Obi..]

Come on already Stover, out with it! Did Wifey give the OK yet or not? ;)

[Crinale]

Be easier to clean out the cyl walls and hone them out if there is no pitting.


I was just asking within the spirit of removing the engine one piece at a time as

[YotaFun]

I was just asking within the spirit of removing the engine one piece at a time as


I know I was just being a smart @$$ :-P