MechanicallyDecline's 1990 4Runner repair(s) log

[MechanicallyDeclined]

This is my spot to post and document any and all issues that I come across with my 4Runner and need advice/help with. Instead of eventually making multiple threads, I figured 1 spot would be better.

Where to start, my oh my. I have 2 repairs that I need to address ASAP and a book full of smaller issues as I posted in my introduction thread.

First 2 main issues, timing chain guide, chain, H20 and oil pump replacement (guides are broke) and a very frustrating and helpless feeling of intermittent starting. Timing chain will be replaced once money is available for me to attempt this daunting chore. Research has already begun with documented how-to's as well online videos. The starting issue I need to figure out asap.

The family ran to the store tonight to get a few things, only to come back to the 4Runner and have it not start for 45 minutes. It can also happen 2x in a day, then not happen again for months.We've had this problem for a while and its time to tackle this issue. It can take anywhere from 5 minutes to leaving it over night and getting a ride from where ever for it to self fix itself. Things I can rule out, battery (new), battery cable and connectors (new), starter and alternator both tested fine.

When I turn the key to acc, as you will see in the attached video, lights come on, gauges all work but when I turn it to the start/on position, all I get is a click, 1 single click, (possibly from a relay?) and that's it. No starter involvement at all. If anyone can help me diagnosis this issue, I would greatly appreciate it. As it is, my wife is apprehensive driving it for the obvious reason of being stranded with our 17 mo. old.

I'm hoping to get this and the timing chain addressed before tackling any other issues with this vehicle. Thanks for any help you can give me.

http://youtu.be/XyN3SafhrHY

[Seanz0rz]

I had a similar issue with mine giving me only one click. It would start later that day. Turned out to be a loose ground at the battery. Maybe start by checking connections and making sure everything is tight and free from corrosion.

Also look onto replacing the starter contacts.

[Robinhood4x4]

What kind of starter is it? When was it last replaced or the contacts replaced? How did you test it?

In addition to the battery contacts that Sean suggested, I'd look heavily into the starter. Check the wires going to the starter too. Your lights dim when you try to start it, meaning something is trying to draw a lot of current. There's only one thing I can think of that would pull that much current and not start a fire, and that's the starter.

If it's not a toyota factory starter, replace it with a toyota factory starter. If it is a toyota starter, replace the contacts. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to check the battery, even though it's new. Might be a bad battery.

[CJM]

Smacked the starter w/a hammer while trying to start it yet? It kicked over the starter is no good.

Sure you also dont have some sorta alarm maybe cutting off the starter? those old aftermarket ones are junk and cause all kinds of issues.

Turning the key multiple times and it doesnt even try to crank or cranks but wont go enough is worn contacts. You can get the contacts at the dealer and its REALLY easy to replace them.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Pulled the starter, what a pita! Went to take the cover off to clean the contacts but encountered a bolt that couldn't clearance another part of the starter. Stripped and stuck.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/ewayota/16AC4B9F-E594-4DD1-B418-093FE1663DF9-1627-0000005FB27BB84F.jpg

From the looks of it, this starter has been smacked a few times before with a hammer. Going to go pick up a starter.

When I pulled the starter off, this cap came off, not sure where it goes. There's a connector inside it. Any ideas?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/ewayota/BF297A29-EFD6-4D5A-9BA0-0B3CAF68D24E-1627-0000005FC2483AFA.jpg

[CJM]

Pull a junkyard start if possible, the ones at the parts stores have failed me over and over and over. BUy some contacts online or at the dealer and betcha the junkyard one is as good as new.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

I just picked one up with a lifetime warranty. Need to get it going today as its the only family vehicle. Still scratching my head on the plastic boot thing.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Out with the old, in the with the new. Once I got the new one in, connected the battery cable ground, then the signal wire (I think thats what its called, still had a couple loose wires left. One looks like it hasn't been connected to anything in a while, the 2nd is the same rubber boot cover looking thing with a wire inside the cap.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/ewayota/3A156804-9905-45A7-9ECB-B8123C275774-268-0000000CA8243883.jpg

After I hooked up what I knew I needed to, I removed the negative ground from the side of the engine bay, took some 80 grit sand paper, cleaned off the copper/brass wire tab and sanded down the mounting surface on the bay. Reconnected the battery and started it up.

This is where I may not have done anything wrong but the rough start makes me think so.

http://youtu.be/y9b5MA8jQNM

[CJM]

Well your battery is going out more than like,y by the 3rd time you started it it barely had enough juice to crank over. It sounds to me like the starter might not be on all the way or something is wrong as it kinda grinds a bit when you turn it on and off.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Update, went to start it up today, battery acted like it was dead. Slow cranking and never starting. Grabbed the jumpbox and it acted the same way. Tested the battery on the multimeter and its at 12.45. Just for safe measure, put a neighbors battery in from his 94 4Runner that I know works, same thing.

Pulled the starter, guess I'll take it back for another one and see if that is the problem. Just for curiosity, I checked the flywheel as I had read that could be the problem but didn't see any broken teeth.

[CJM]

No broken teeth is a good thing.

Id say the starter is DOA if anything have it checked if you can. But parts store starters never seem to last.

IDK what kinda starter you need (toy Part number) but I have a starter for a 3.4L that might work. It needs contacts but Id sell it for really cheap. I yanked it out of a good 97 4runner for the contacts.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Quick parts # search shows there different starts. Took the starter in to have it tested and it came back fine. Gonna figure out how to pull the positive cable to the starter and replace that. Slightly frustrating.

[Seanz0rz]

What about the starter relay? could that have bad contacts in it?

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Update.....Good news, and bad news...

Good news, I got it started. Went and replaced the + and - cables, hooked it all up and viola!

Bad news. When I went to start it the first time, nada. Just like I had posted in the video. Got out, checked all the cables, and the signal wire, got back in and it started. Hmmm. Got out, jiggled the signal wire, no start. Think thats where my problem was all along. Not quite sure the best way to go about fixing that as I have zero idea where it comes from, just to where it obviously ends.

Other bad news, I think I figured out where the rubber boot goes. Noticed I don't have any oil pressure reading on the gauge now. Thinking that's the sending gauge wire. If it is and there is suppose to be a connector on the unit, is the wire part replaceable by itself? Meaning, is there a connector I can just put on the unit and plug that wire into or is it a whole ball of wax type deal?

The white/gray wire, not sure what that has to do with still.

[CJM]

If its just the sensor gauge wire Id leave it be. The gauge is totally inaccurate anyways (mine is never high unless first warming up and then barely goes above middle when running). If you really want to fix it, cut the end off both ends and put a crimp on connection on them and wrap it up some electrical tape. Wanna get mroe fancy, solder the connectors on.

perhaps the signal wire is loose at the starter as obviously jiggling it at the starter and the truck started. Take the end off of it and see if you can crimp the ends tighter or replace it with a space type connector or something. Been there done that on various stuff before and it usually works.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

If its just the sensor gauge wire Id leave it be. The gauge is totally inaccurate anyways (mine is never high unless first warming up and then barely goes above middle when running). If you really want to fix it, cut the end off both ends and put a crimp on connection on them and wrap it up some electrical tape. Wanna get mroe fancy, solder the connectors on.

Problem is, there isnt anything on the sending unit to connect it too. If there was a piece there, its MIA. Its the least of my worries at the moment, but it will bug me.



perhaps the signal wire is loose at the starter as obviously jiggling it at the starter and the truck started. Take the end off of it and see if you can crimp the ends tighter or replace it with a space type connector or something. Been there done that on various stuff before and it usually works.


I assume its a little loose, crimping it makes me a little nervous lol. What are you referring to with "space type connector"? I've kicked the idea around of trying to find one and possibly splicing the connector into the existing wiring.

[CJM]

http://www.chromesphere.com/coleco/coleco_Graphs/Thumb_7mm_Spade_Connector.jpgSpade I mean.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

That might work, I'll need to take another look. Dawned on me that crimping is out of the question since the connector is inside a plastic clip. I bet its a spade on the inside of the clip.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Gonna have to wait till my next day off looking for a connector. Until then, I think my alternator is going south. Noticed once the weather started getting colder, in the morning the 4runner had a hard time turning over. Throw the jump box on and jump it and it would be good the rest of the day. Same thing happened this am. Slow crank, checked the signal wire on the starter just to double check, same thing. Jump box and viola. Let it run for 5 minutes, turned it off, then started it again. Started right up. I had the alternator checked already but maybe once the 4runners good for the day it gives a false reading?

[CJM]

Battery is going south.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

So got to thinking, haven't really stopped thinking about it yet. Here are my thoughts, dismissing the alternator and battery. Electrical draw over night or a co worker mentioned starter relay.

Reason for throwing out battery, I tossed the battery in another 4runner after starting with an older battery, new battery fired up quick. Voltage checks in over 12.4 every time I check it too.

I don't know much about the relay. Everything I've read about the relay is if its bad, the starter wouldn't crank at all. Just click.

Over night draw, going to start the 4runner tonight, let it run for 10 minutes, turn it off and unhook the battery. Will reconnect in the am and see if it starts.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Just unhooked the battery after a trip to dinner. Threw the multimeter on it before I disconnected it. 12.77 on the multimeter. Ill hook it up in the morning and see if it starts.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

It started. Looking like a overnight draw on the battery. Will need to find the time to pull fuses and locate it.

[CJM]

Use a test light and see if you can pinpoint the draw. If not might need to find someone with an amp clamp or buy one yourself.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

For now ill put the multimeter on the battery, then pull fuses till the draw disappears. Once I know what fuse it is, then ill need to get technical. Been watching how to's on YouTube but its always a simple light switch lol

[Robinhood4x4]

Sounds like a good plan.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Quick update. Still hunting down the starting issue. Ended up fixing the + cable that runs from the batt to the fuse box. PO did a hack job on splicing in new wire. Attempted to replace the whole wire but was unsure of how it actually came out. Bolt holding it in looked like it would be a PITA to get out, so I properly spliced in a new section.
Didn't fix the issue, talked to a buddy who has recommended replacing all the grounds. That will be address soon.
Today though, driving home with the family, took a right had turn, 4Runner dies mid turn. Was able to coast into a dirt lot. Tried to restart, would crank but not fire. Finally was able to tow it home this evening and will be diagnosing it for a possibly faulty fuel pump. I'll check the fuse and relay as well as listen for the pump to kick on before going any further. I'll probably take the time to replace the fuel filter and possibly plugs and wires with rotor and cap while I'm at it.

Need to get this figured out so I can dive in over my head on replacing an auto trans on my wife's escort. Fun times.

[Robinhood4x4]

I don't remember if the gas pump is in the tank, but if it is, you might want to replace the gas level sending unit while you're in there. It wears out over time.

[CJM]

Bad ground for sure, maybe bad fuel pump. Make sure to replace sending unit, not worth the headache later.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Ok, guess the listening test doesn't work. Fuel pump doesn't turn on until the key is turned to start, so that test is mute. Went to locate the fuse but it isn't labeled. Any idea which fuse the FP is ran off of? Also, did a search at autopart stores online for the sending unit but have struck out. All I have found is a repair kit but no replacement kits.

[CJM]

I think its the fuse labeled efi maybe, not sure honestly.

[Robinhood4x4]

This is the part of the sending unit that wears out. The wiper wears a hole through the resister where it spends most of it's time, which in my case was from 3/4-1/2 tank. I'm not sure what the repair kit fixes.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-4KJ6xmB/0/L/i-4KJ6xmB-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-vx7jCjP/0/XL/i-vx7jCjP-XL.jpg

[MechanicallyDeclined]

From what Autozone shows, the repair kit is just fuel lines. The gauge itself is working just fine, so I have little concern with it at the moment. It is a "while your in there" job, but I think I would rather spread that money out towards other items needing to be addressed.

Side note: is there anyway to change the settings as to how long a "session" lasts on this forum? Theres been times where I've been reading other threads before posting in here and I've been autologged out.

[Robinhood4x4]

I assume that when you log in you click the box that says "remember me" or something like that? I'll ask the other staff members.

[Robinhood4x4]

Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like there's anything we can do about it. This is the first we've heard of this particular problem with the software. There is a known problem where if you try to post a bunch of pictures, it might loose the post, but nothing like this.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Nothing big, I have the remember me tagged, just noticed last time after typing up a post it mentioned I had to be logged in to post.

Anywho, been trying to get this fuel pump replaced. Drained the tank, have it unbolted, fill tube is unscrewed and the main fill tube is off. Haven't been able to get the secondary fill tube disconnected yet, old hosing and its stuck pretty good. Any suggestions on how to get it to loosen up a little?
Found an access panel under the rear seat and disconnected the fuel line but am having issues with a wiring harness connector. Can anyone shed some light on how this is suppose to disconnect? Push the tab in and pull is what I'd assume but have failed repeatedly on this.
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/mechanically_declined/4runner/21AC835B-1001-400F-8816-14EC3B60DC2B-17699-00000513CBCAB75E_zps11452691.jpg

Trying to stay positive on this but I'm getting a little frustrated at the moment. This is the most complicated fuel pump I've replaced, granted its only the 3rd lol.

[Crinale]

its just push tab and pull, but it is probably just filled with road grime and dirt... disconnect the negative battery terminal (just to be sure) and spray the connector with brake cleaner to try to remove the grime, wd40 might work too but let it sit to be sure all the residue has evaporated before you plug the battery back in.

[Seanz0rz]

skip the brake cleaner and get some electrical contact cleaner. It isn't as harsh on the plastic and will clean up the terminals as well! I have also had to pry them off with a small screwdriver.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

So I assume that tab needs to slide under the squared plastic cap? Rather ask a dumb and probably obvious question than break that and make the job harder.

[MechanicallyDeclined]

Update:
Got the new pump in, then lost spark. Pulled the wires, no spark a any of them. Feared the timing chain broke, pulled the distributer and turned the motor over while watching the rotor. Rotor spun, whew!

Next thing I did was checked the resistance on the ignition coil. I may redo this test to make sure that I did it properly but was getting a fluctuation between .6-1.0. I'm not sure what the acceptable range is suppose to be.

Followed that up with a text to a buddy who lives out of state. He mentioned that it could be the ignitor but am unaware of its location or testing procedure.

Any other ideas just in case?