3.4L timing belt

[CJM]

I have a noise, I believe its a lifter on the right side of the motor. However further checking it, possibly a bad hydraulic tensioner by the t-belt. I know the t-belt is very much due, about 110k due actually lol. It looked fine when I had it all apart for the plug blowout incident about 40k ago tho, but 40k is alot of miles since then.

On ebay I found the guy selling the OEM kit minus all the cam pulleys and junk for $264 or I can buy his kit using non OEM parts for $150. Also going to find out what the local parts distro gets for all of them.

Worth the extra bucks to buy the OEM stuff? Chances are Im only going to change the t-belt, hydro tensioner, waterpump, and thermostat. Probably trying to get by without doing to seals possible as I dont want to yank the plenum to chance out the camshaft seals on the left side if possible.

Heres the kits I found

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Truck-3-4L-V6-Timing-Belt-WaterPump-Pulley-Kit-/180651555010?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0fabf8c2&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4Runner-T100-Tacoma-Tundra-V6-TIMING-BELT-WATER-PUMP-KIT-Genuine-OEM-Parts-/190580750996?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5f7f7a94&vxp=mtr

Any special tools I will need besides the special tool to remove the tension (which I have thankfully)?

Thoughts gang?

[mastacox]

Definitely buy all OEM or you'll regret it later, it isn't the kind of thing you'll want to have to do again in 30k miles.

It's an excellent price on the parts also (assuming legit); Toyota of Dallas would cost in the range of $400.

[CJM]

Yea I was thinking about that. OEM would be best idea even if its 100 more, Im sure parts store would get me quality parts too but meh I like toyota stuff usually myself its usually better.

Im gonna pick up the other belts aftermarket. The seller has a kit with toyota belts, Im not paying another 100 bucks for 3 belts that may or may not fit my truck (who knows if my 3.4L uses the same ones the 4runner/taco uses). They are super easy to change and should run me less than 50 for all 3 gates or goodyear branded belts.

I changed the oil today and used rotella 15w-40 (same as I used in my quad) and it quieted that lifter a bit.

[fenrisx]

I can confirm the OE kit from aircabinman is legit. I used the same kit a few years back.. I've also recommended his kit to several people, and originally had someone recommend it to me.

[CJM]

Thanks fenris.

[DHC6twinotter]

The kit I used was also by aircabinman. My kit was all OEM and included the accessory belts. I paid $303. Everything was correct, and nearly 30k later, I've had no problems.

When I did my timing belt, I didn't use the special tensioner tool to release the tension. I tried, but I ended up cracking the tensioner bracket. It wasn't a big deal since I was replacing it anyways. I ended up cutting the belt off after I had all the timing marks lined up, and installed the tensioner that cam with the kit. It wasn't that hard. A 14mm (or maybe 12...can't remember) ratcheting wrench will make it easier to remove the AC compressor bracket.

You will also need a special tool to hold the crank in place as you remove the crank bolt, but maybe you plan on using the starter bump or air tool method instead.

[CJM]

Yea IDK how thats gonna go tbh with the crank. Maybe an air tool, maybe use the starter.

Isnt there a write up somewhere on this?

[DHC6twinotter]

This video is pretty good:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Xv11NRc5Xg

When I did the timing belt on my 2nd gen, I built a tool to keep the crank from turning when I removed the crank bolt. My 3rd gen is a 5spd, so when I did the timing belt on it, I just parked it in 5th gear.

Also, Toyota recommends a new crank bolt be used, which did not come in the kit I purchased.

[CJM]

Why am I replacing the crank pulley anyways? Just GP? Cause the kit I found doesnt list the crank pulley in the parts list.

Edit: Oh I see, in order to yank off the waterpump huh?

Found this, imho its worth the cash http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schley-Tools-3-4L-Toyota-Harmonic-Damper-Puller-Holder-SL64400-/230940336390#vi-content

[DHC6twinotter]

Yeah, the crank pulley is re-used and you don't need a new one. Just a new crank bolt. The crank pulley has to be removed so that the lower timing cover can be removed, and to allow space for the timing belt to slip on/off the crank gear.

EDIT: The video shows the radiator removed. I didn't do this and had plenty of room to work. The only downside to not removing the radiator is you run the risk of poking a hole in it with a wrench or something.

[CJM]

Yea I dont think Ill remove the rad, just too much trouble. Plenty of room to work in there with it in there.

[whitewater T4R]

Hope you have some meat behind you, when you go to torque the crank bolt back down, it's spec'ed at around 220 ftlbs. Double check your torque wrench to be sure it has that capacity, and that you have the leverage to pull that much.

[CJM]

10 bucks says I can fit an impact in there when I do it. But I also have a huge torque wrench at my buddys shop. Thanks.

[YotaFun]

On the Runners/Tacos if the Rad is out you can get a impact in there, Its been too long since I have touched a T100 to remember how big the engine bay is and where the engine sits

[CJM]

I think theres plenty of room to cram a 3/8 impact gun in there if not a 1/2 one. When I had it apart last time I easily had enough room to work.

Explain to me more how the wrench trick for the crank pulley bolt works Avy.

[YotaFun]

Breaker bar, put it on the pulley and rest it on top of the drivers side of the frame and tap the key to get the engine to do a quick turn, usually it cracks that bolt loose, sometimes it doesn't though

[CJM]

Thought thats how ya do it, just wasnt sure. Thanks man.

[mastacox]

I found that I didn't have enough room between the pulley and radiator to fit an impact gun, so I actually removed the radiator. But I was building the whole engine top end anyway so it wasn't much extra work...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Engine%20Rebuild/Day%204/IMG_6931.jpg (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/mastacox/media/Engine%20Rebuild/Day%204/IMG_6931.jpg.html)

[CJM]

Well I did the timing belt at my buddys shop, but a few things didnt exactly go according to plan.
1. The harmonic balancer aka crank pulley separated. Internally there is the large dampener in there that is polyurethane in. The back of the pulley was fine, but that internal part was making my noise. Once we yanked the bolt out it was clearly evident. btw we used a 3/4 impact gun to take that bolt on and off, forget the complicated holder/tool whatever that sucker isnt going anywhere.

After a brief conversation with Avdian (thanks again, been awhile since we spoke) it was either do the job best we could as I need the truck RFN or wait and order the pulley which isnt really an option as its saturday and Im positive even if they were open that they would have it in stock. Truck was already all apart as well. So after talking to my veteran mechanic buddy we decided to do 2 things: 1. Use heavy duty gray silicone that he uses for import oil pans, this stuff is so strong he put it on a honda oil pan and BUSTED the pan trying to remove it about a month later for another issue the car had, 2. We red loctited 2 grade 8 bolts in there to hold it. I highly doubt its going anywhere, it does let go cant be any worse than before. I know its not the right way but literally it was either this or I wait till tues or weds when it comes into toyota and then do the job. Considering all factors Im sure it will be fine. Im annoyed in general this was my issue tho and nothing else

2. The timing belt, although worn after about 120k wasnt really bad. it wasnt even that worn actually! Amazing..

3. In order to use the impact gun we took off my grill, breaking it worse than it was in the process. Eh wtf do you want the truck is almost 20yrs old. Still annoying tho.

[Seanz0rz]

So are you going to replace the pulley when you get a new one? or hope this fix lasts until the next time?

[CJM]

Depends on how much that sucker is.

Trust me when I say this: Ive fixed other things in the improper fashion and never had an issue, but one never knows. If you think about it, how else is the stupid piece attached in there anyways? Is what I did stronger than the original...Id like to think so. If that stupid part was only held in by what equates polyurethane, then the RTV+bolts+loctite is much stronger in the end.

I REALLY want to sell the truck in the next few months anyways so we shall see.

Im still really pissed this was my issue and not the timing belt..

Even better is the fact I have the bill from the last t-belt done by the local dealer. wait for it..they didnt use a gasket at all on the waterpump.. just rtv.. thats excellent no?

[Seanz0rz]

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~pulley~crankshaft~13408-62040.html

[CJM]

Exactly, for that price its gonna stay that way. I googled it and found a dorman replacement for about 180..still Id trust my setup for that price. In the next 6 months this truck is going down the road to someone else, have a buyer lined up who will use it as his farm only truck so. I need a fullsize truck and a V8 by now.

Im still pissed this was the issue..

[CJM]

If I didnt have bad luck i wouldnt have any luck at all.

For the heck of it while out today I decided to double check and make sure the coolant tank was full. I expected it to empty some as it might have filled the rad slightly as is sometimes the case.

The rad is bad, it has a crack about 3 inches long on the top of the tank on the pass side. I cannot source a rad locally, I called everyone and they all said within at least 2 days and they wanted $$$ for what equates to prob a junk rad.

Off to rock auto I am getting overnighted (still 2 days cause its sunday today) a spectra pro rad. meh spectra is only so so but I dont have much else of a choice here.

if its not one thing its another..