DIY Roof Rack, Seanz0rz's Low Profile Rack

[Seanz0rz]

I love my old Surco rack. It has served me well, but it is starting to rattle again, despite me adding a few dozen screws a few years ago.

I have decided to build my own light weight, low profile roof rack.

Goals:
Light weight, <60 pounds
Low profile, <7 inches
Mounts for Lights and HAM antenna
Maximize storage area
Look damn cool


I have decided to use 1" EMT conduit. With an OD of 1.163" and a wall thickness 0.057", it is really close to what I would use in regular structural tube. Plus, I can get a hand bender for under 70 dollars!

I have acquired some of the conduit, (I will likely need a few more sticks since I changed from my original design), the bender, hole saw to notch the tube, and acid to strip the zinc coating off the tube for welding. If I feel motivated tomorrow, I will start making it!

Since Solidworks is my poison of choice:

Front view:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5452/9235980378_e37416e8d4_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9235980378/)

Side:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/9233200575_6256a6c741_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9233200575/)

Top:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/9233200661_aa3952547b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9233200661/)

Isometric:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5478/9235980556_55c234fccc_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9235980556/)


I am also trying out Flickr. I hate it so far.

[Good Times]

is the front spot opening specifically for your moonroof and also double for the light bar? how about reinforcing it with a lower tubing to attach it to?

thoughts on using alum to shave some weight? or doesn't make that much of a difference?

how about mounting points and hardware? how do you plan to mount it to the roof?

just throwing questions at ya since I'm bored :)

[Seanz0rz]

the forward opening is for the moonroof. I do use it enough to warrant leaving that section open. That forward bar actually sits just ahead of the opening and will have mounts that attach to the roof with industrial double sided tape. It will have light mounts for a future LED bar up front, plus lights on all the sides, etc.

Mounting will be through the factory tracks. I haven't drawn them up yet, but have them in my head. the front mounts will stick to the body ahead of the moon roof, but be detachable (so I can take the rack off if I need to)

I have no way to weld aluminum, so that's out. Currently, mass is at 45.37 pounds. With mounts, tabs, etc, it should be under 60.

hardware will be SS or grade 8, haven't decided. There won't be much, just to attach the rack to the roof.

Sadly, the happy faces will not be returning :(

[Seanz0rz]

mounts for the factory tracks:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/9234564989_ddc234e05b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9234564989/)

Something sorta similar for the forward mounts to the body, but without holes and probably lower profile. I will figure out those later

[Good Times]

cool!

[4x4mike]

I like the idea of a low profile rack. I built one, there is a thread here on UY, to fit within and below my Yakima bike rack. The idea was to have something up there that wouldn't make any noise and not stick up so much that it drew too much attention to.

A couple of questions about your design. Do you know what you're going to be carrying up there? Are those items worked into your design? I use mine for lightweight soft goods, firewood and the mount/cage for two Specter MWC's. Rarely is it all of that but if it were it would be close to 175 pounds. I've got a lot of reinforcement as well as expanded steel. Your design has a lot of open space. Are there any plans for cross bracing or reinforcement for your cross bars? The emt is strong but with enough weight in one spot you'll kink the bars. I've seen plently of Yakima and Thule bars bent with 100 pound loads.

Another question is the front extension. What about the wash board roads rough trails? Do you think that bar will stay put and not smack the heck out of your roof? I've had thick Yakima bars vibrate enough to allow ski bindings from skis that are in ski mounts touch my roof. I'd talk with guys that have the Baja Racks or ROLA racks that have a similar design. My old full size truck had a lumber rack on it when I bought it and the hoop that extended to the windshield would move around quite a bit on the freeway.

Looking forward to your build. I've been thinking about building another version of the rack I already have since I pulled my Yakima rack off. I don't need extra room up there but I've got ideas in my head.

[4x4mike]

These are old cell phone pics but here is an idea of what mine looks like loaded.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--jehVDNsUi8/TGhFHFLQ-yI/AAAAAAAAoL4/e5QIDw4Kl8s/s800/0716001639.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cvIiWMsCEFQ/TGhFH5irDyI/AAAAAAAAoL4/ICU9NBbPEV8/s800/0716001639a.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KfKHd2EFU-M/TGhFIWfTkjI/AAAAAAAAoL4/EEr0ppf3cZ4/s800/0716001640.jpg

I don't have much of any sides to my rack, just tie downs. The MWC cage is bolted through the expanded steel when it's used and everything else is just tied down real well. I know you've got your rocket boxes and pull pall. Make sure they can fit or that there is space for tabs for them.

[Bob98SR5]

sean,

how are you going to join the straight parts to the curved parts or is it one gigantic piece? do you have a tube crimper? thats what i'd use w/ the tube bender for the corners. do you have both?

[Seanz0rz]

Bob, each 10 foot section will have 2 bends in it, creating the "U" shape at the back of the top section and the front and back of the bottom. The very front section will have to be made in individual bends and then welded together because of the complex angles. . Everything will be welded together, and the butt joints on the tubing will probably get internal sleeves as well.

The planned use for the rack is primarily chairs, tents, empty water jugs, etc. Basically super light weight stuff, never more than 100 pounds, and probably never more than 50. I try to keep all my heavy stuff low on the vehicle.

I am not too worried about the front hitting the roof. It will be secured, and the tubing should be flexible enough to bend with the body if necessary.

I am going to wait until I get back from the trip this weekend to start. In the mean time, I will finish off the mounting brackets, light tabs, etc. Some of it will change when I get to putting it together, but it should be a good start.


edit: forgot to add, I will be putting down some type of expanded metal on top. I haven't picked anything out yet, but will soon.

[Seanz0rz]

I've changed my mind a few times since I posted up last.

I have decided on this:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/9332665306_c078703f44_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9332665306/)

Right now it is at 40 pounds. Once it is all done I expect it to be around 50-55.

[Robinhood4x4]

I've been out of the country for a few weeks and am now just catching up with all the posts. Looks good Sean. Sooner or later I'll be make a rack for my float tubes.

One thing I've been toying with is something I picked up from looking at a friend's old school range rover. Since it was built to be driven in africa with no air conditioning, it has a double layer roof. Basically, the roof has a second skin of sheetmetal that allows air to free flow underneath it, thus keeping it cooler inside. Since I live in Arizona, I'm thinking I could do the same with my roof rack, so instead of using expanded metal, I'd use a thin sheet of aluminum.

On a side note, Mike, I didn't know you fly fished!

[Seanz0rz]

I'll have to look into that. Having a dark colored truck in the desert is pretty stupid... Maybe a sheet in the .090" range? I would never put a heavy point load, just chairs and such.

[4x4mike]

Yep, I love it. Used to do a lot of tubing but like river and stream fishing the most. I had a buddy that used to own a shop so I was always outfitted. He's got a cool trailer he uses offroad that holds two float tubes inflated on the top. He's in Colorado with it right now and two weeks ago in Wyoming. Needless to say I'm jealous. I'll do a write up on my trip to Oregon we have in a few weeks. Wheeling, fishing and tractor driving.

[Seanz0rz]

Got started today!

First bend!:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2808/9359190385_83b8a296d1_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9359190385/)

But I screwed it up! bent on the wrong side of the line, whoops! I will still use the piece elsewhere.

Front half of the bottom:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3785/9359192281_34129081f0_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9359192281/)

Bottom completed:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3695/9361973268_0b8edb63fc_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9361973268/)

Second mistake, I didn't have enough foot pressure on the bender and I kinked the tube. This was the second bend in the tube to make the U shape for the top. I used the good bend in this piece to make half of the light hoop.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/9359196165_76e13afaf3_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9359196165/)

Bend for the light hoop:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5465/9359198611_d3899219a3_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9359198611/)

I still have 2 more bends to do, but it got way too hot and humid outside for me to work, and my shade went away. Maybe tonight I can finish that up. I also need a couple of more sticks of conduit. I am thinking of using 3/4" rigid metallic tubing (nearly the same OD as the 1" emt) for the load bearing cross bars. they are approximately .100" wall.

[Seanz0rz]

Went and picked up the rest of the pieces I need. I will have a little extra left over I might use to do some braces or something.

It's kinda like training your replacement and then getting laid off or fired...
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/9363595234_905fff7a28_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9363595234/)

Primer and paint:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2865/9360818723_83c9d74947_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9360818723/)

Galvanized metal is a pain to paint over. Hopefully this primer works out well, seems like I have used it before on another project, but I can't for the life of me remember what!

[4x4mike]

That's the same paint I use for my sliders, racks and skid plates. It will stick to anything. A couple of things about it. It's actually dark gray and not black. Stir the heck out of it. Cut it with a bit of thinner because it's like a thin tar. Use the 99 cent brushes as this paint does not wash out.

I used it on the galzanized pieces on my recent bike rack build. Went on with no problem. I would let the rack sit for a day or two in between coats as it takes a long time to cure. Gloves are also a must because it sticks to the skin like no other. See my slider paint post and my first birthing a baby post.

[Seanz0rz]

Yep, it is the black version of what I use on my bumpers and sliders. I've used the black before in a spray, wonder if it is thicker than the silver on a quart?

Woke up late today, we'll see what actually gets done.

[4x4mike]

I've used the spray and the brush on in that color. I like the brush on because you can put it on thick but the texture/finish isn't always as consistent as the spray. For my sliders I brush the bottoms and side but spray the tops. It gives it a better look yet still protects.

I've seen your silver and I'd venture to say the black is thicker/stickier. If you thin it I'd start with just a little and go from there. Having it too thick will require more curing time. Plus if the rack does get whacked the paint will want to chip more than it would want to be scratched. This layers mean you'll have a bigger chip.

[Seanz0rz]

I'll probably thin it with a few drops, since it will be hot when I paint. We'll see how it does. I usually do a good base coat to seal everything up, and then a top coat for appearance. In reality, I won't be painting for at least a week.

I'm going out to work on it in a minute. It is damn hot and all my shade is gone. Why do I choose to do fab stuff in the summer?!

[Seanz0rz]

Today was one of those days...

Started out by truing the lower hoops. Now they match! I also cut one down to make the overall dimension 7' or 84". Easy enough.

I set up my zinc stripper solution. 1 part muriatic acid, 1 part water. Ends of the tubs went in the water to produce bare metal surfaces to weld on. Welding zinc can cause significant amounts of harmful fumes, and is best avoided.

Ohhhhh, bubbles!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/9405580366_7ea3f0561b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9405580366/)

In an accompanying bucket, I put a higher level of water and some baking soda to neutralize the acid when it was done. After that, parts got rinsed with the hose.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2839/9405580996_feca3d992b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9405580996/)

The acid did a GREAT job at removing all of the galvanizing on the tube.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7395/9405652316_266d88cc15_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9405652316/)


I went to notch parts and that was a disaster. For some reason, my drill press will not hold the tapered chuck. Since it was dropping the hole saw on a regular basis, it ripped a couple of teeth off. I'm done with it.

I tried to use a bench grinder, but it only has a fine grinding stone, so on to plan C.

Corax (Keith) recommended this website: http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

I will use that to create my template for the cuts I need to make. Less than ideal, but I'm trying to work with what I have.

I also spent Saturday getting the welder wired up to the house, so no more 18hp V twin whirling away next to me while I weld!

Hopefully tomorrow will be more productive.

[4x4mike]

Good job on the acid. I welded through it while holding my breath while being blasted by a fan.

[DHC6twinotter]

I watched the acid clean up the galvanized pipe, and it was pretty cool!

[Seanz0rz]

Mike, I've done that on smaller jobs, welding gates and fence posts, that kind of stuff. But this is a lot of welding, and it needs to look reasonably nice as well.

My back was hurting pretty bad last night, so I took some wonderful pills and slept in. I feel better, so now it's time to get out there and notch all my tubes!

[Seanz0rz]

Today was a much better day...

The pattern I made sets the saddles exactly parallel, and the correct distance between them. Every piece should come out nearly the same:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/9412106996_f614342d8e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9412106996/)

Not even close to half done:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3779/9409339655_055e38f939_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9409339655/)

I have 7 done, I still have 8 more small ones, as well as the 5 cross bars and 3 forward uprights. Not bad. I lost my shade for the day and I can feel myself roasting in the sun, time to call it a day and work on something entirely different.

[Seanz0rz]

Finally got a chance to work on it a bit more today.

Got the rest of the pieces in the above post cut. Not too bad, just hard holding on to them and not taking a finger off!

Welded up the hoop and made sure it was all square, equal, etc, etc. It looked pretty good, so I added the first of the cross bars (rear most). This one will be attached to the roof, and is actually 3/4" Rigid Metallic Conduit with a .100 wall thickness.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/9461805262_94ee28395d_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9461805262/)

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5487/9459024679_003a4348d1_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9459024679/)

I added in the next cross bar, and skipped the one after that to get the next thicker bar welded in so I could retire the strap that was keeping the sides from bowing out.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/9461803770_85726d8121_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9461803770/)

As far as I got today:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/9461803120_d9aed2d6a1_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9461803120/)

Next time, I will add in the 2 remaining cross bars, and test fit it on my truck. Once it is up there, I will measure for the mounts, fabricate them, and weld them to the bars. Then I will get started on the basket part of the rack. A bunch of work left to do, but it is looking pretty nice. I will have to clean up many of the welds. Welding on thin tube sucks!

[4x4mike]

It looks like it's coming along nicely. Nice having shore power I'm sure. Are you using gas or flux core? I used flux core with my emt and I wished I had gas to run less power and keep from blowing holes. I had a tank that expired and just turned it in instead of re-upping. The cost of tank fill ups is a bit high for something I don't use a lot. Even if I did use it more there would still be a lot of cost involved.

I don't have a lot of experience or great work welding round to flat or fish mouth gussets. It's a bit tricky for me. My bike rack took some time to make it look good. I had drilled 1 inch holes, fed the emt through then welded the emt to 2" square tube that was twice as thick. It turned out all right but had to keep the heat on the square section.

[Seanz0rz]

Using gas. It's not so bad. I only really blew one hole in it, where the notch didn't fit right. I also forgot to turn on the gas a couple of times, and forgot to grind off some of the zinc.

[paddlenbike]

Looks good Sean!

How's the VW coming along? I saw the Nacho Drive Westfalia van on Expo got a Subaru engine transplant, which somehow led me to youtube (it always does) of a guy that put the 230-240 hp Subaru SVX 3.3L F-6 in his Westfalia van. The best part was he filmed two videos--one of him doing a full throttle pull onto the highway up a slight incline both before and after the engine swap. It took him something like 47 seconds to hit 55MPH with the VW engine and something like 10 seconds with the Subaru engine. I have never seen such a night and day difference, I can't imagine how much better his V'dub drives now.

[Seanz0rz]

I haven't touched it in months. It needs brakes, seat belts, and some other small things to drive, including re-upping the registration and insurance (its PNO now). Engine runs OK, but needs a major tune up and all of the vacuum leaks need to be fixed, valves adjusted, etc. Needs a new muffler, all new window and door rubber and seals, etc. I figure all of the body stuff is about $1-1.5k.

I think the goal is to stuff an EJ in there at some point. I could do it super cheap right now (about $2000) and use my current trans, or spend about 5k on a really nice install with a subaru transmission. It is on the way back burner. I would sell it but I'd lose money on it at this point, and it is not really in the way too much. I would like to get it down and back on it's own wheels so I can move it around.

Someday...

[paddlenbike]

Wish I had known you were thinking of an EJ swap. My friend just scrapped her Forester. It had a blown headgasket and a bad trans, but the motor you could have repaired.

[Seanz0rz]

I'd like to have the engine and trans together, along with the ECM and other necessary parts.

[4x4mike]

Rumor has it that it is hot in your neck of the woods but a MIG arc is around 6000 degrees so welding is always hot.

How's the rack coming along? Done by Pismo? Integrated air coupler flag mount?

[Seanz0rz]

It will be done by Pismo, with the flag mount. Whether or not ill be there is questionable right now.

It's too hot to work. I have been getting horrible sleep lately too, so waking up early is harder than normal. It was 104 and humid. Just finishing up the winch wiring left me exhausted and dehydrated.

[4x4mike]

Questionable attendance? My wife is on me about going and my back. The plan is to run away if need be just to make it. I told her I hauled Ken there fresh out of a walker and he did okay.

If I can do it you gotta. If it's because of a new job you have to work that date in during negotiations.

[Seanz0rz]

Lexi is starting a new job and will have to work Sunday. If we come, it will be for Friday and Saturday, ducking out either late Saturday or SUPER early Sunday. If I decide to come up alone, then who knows, but that is a lot of gas to get up there and back, and leaving her behind kinda sucks for both of us.

It was 102 today, and working over a hot car engine was bad enough. Molten metal would be a deal breaker today. Maybe tomorrow I will work on the rack!

[4x4mike]

I know what it's like to leave early.

If it makes you feel any better it's a long ass drive for me and I'm rolling solo. Parts of it are easier plus it's just a weekend. Lots of room to sleep, easy to pack, whatever I want to eat and whatever I want to listen to.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Any updates on this thing Sean? Work all looked good so far.

[Seanz0rz]

Got busy with other projects, but I will get back to it very soon.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Slacker.... what are you doing right now? Get to work!

[Seanz0rz]

Busy with household stuff. Had to move a ton of furniture from grandma's place, and a bunch of other home type stuff. Now I'm working on a possible kickstarter and trying to make money wherever I can. Still no luck on the job market.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Well best of luck with the kickstart.

Hang in there brother.

[4x4mike]

Kickstarter? Very interested to see what you've got cooking.

I'm sure you've posted about your 3D printer's limitations before but I've got an idea for you.

Actually I've already read about people suggesting this but no one is jumping on it.

The front mud guards for my fender flares have dropped off the face of the earth. There are guys online willing to pay twice retail for a set. I don't know if there has always been a demand for them, guys removing the running boards, but it seems like there are interested buyers out there. For one our buddy Bill just bought another 4Runner with the same flares and will be needing a set.

This is JA's website where he has them pictured: http://www.top4runners.com/ja/additions1.html

Part numbers: 00547-35966DF (driver side), 00547-35961PF (passenger side)

If you think you'd like to look into it let me know and I can get some measurements for you.

[4x4mike]

Here is a link with current interest.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/150996-mudflap-pt413-35966-df-help.html

[Seanz0rz]

8x8" is my max, so I would have to split that into 4 or more sections, and they would shatter at the first rock. I guess you could make a mold and try to repop them in silicone or something.

as for the KS, it is what we talked about at pismo. That's all I want to release now. PM me your addy and you will get a package in the next couple of weeks.

[Seanz0rz]

One of my New Year's resolutions is to finish projects.

Got out there today and cleaned up the rust that had accumulated over the last 5 months or so. That took a few hours. I then finished welding up all of the cross pieces.

I then fitted the risers and top tube on the rack, marked where I had to remove the galvanizing:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/11845928275_f4ac224fc5_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11845928275/)
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3769/11846728756_d39fa5cd76_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11846728756/)


After all that grinding, I tacked it up and did the final welds:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/11846725066_9271e814c5_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11846725066/)

Tomorrow it will get cleaned up and inspected, and some welds need to be ground down. Welds aren't exactly pretty, but they will hold. I also plan on drenching it in paint, so that should hide some of the ugliness.

[Seanz0rz]

Didn't work on it today. Earlier this week, I got food poisoning or something, and ended up pulling all the muscles in my back, stomach, and chest. Working yesterday made my back way worse. I am actually having a hard time walking, and bending and getting back up takes quite a long time.

I did manage to remove the Daylighters from the old rack and inspected them. The rubber gaskets were toast, and the covers were as well. I ordered new ones from KC, less than 30 bucks, most of that being the covers. I also ordered a DDM HID kit for them, so they will get swapped when I refurbish the housings, then I can mount them up all fresh and new.

Now I have just about everything I need to finish up. I will have to make some tabs or something for wiring, and I still need to figure out mounts, etc. Tomorrow I will actually remove the old rack and mock this one up to see about those things.

[Seanz0rz]

Got the front done today.

Right side tacked up:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3745/11879362533_d5f07c757a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11879362533/)

All welded up:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7323/11879932506_823962d284_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11879932506/)

And where the Daylighters will live:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3821/11879075705_7c988a1a42_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11879075705/)

In between the lights, I will put in a panel, but I haven't decided on tinted acrylic or black ABS. Acrylic I would have to buy, I think I am all out of sheets big enough for that. I have the tint though. I have a sheet of ABS, but I don't think it would look as good. It is nearly a 2 foot span between the two lights.

I could also fill it in with some very thin sheet metal that I have, maybe 28 or 26 gauge.

Next time I will be tossing it up on the truck and seeing how it all fits. Rear mounts will be easy, fronts not so much.

[Good Times]

lookin good sean! what's the weight lookin like? bet those bends are no fun to do :)

[Seanz0rz]

Weight isn't bad. I'll see if I can toss it on a scale before I mount it. Solid modeling had it at 45 or so pounds. I'm estimating 55 when its done.

[Kryptoroxx]

I think it looks pretty good and the weight sounds even better.

A metal grating might be a good idea if you put a floor in it. It would help keep the weight down and water would not puddle in it.

If I could weld worth a hoot this would be a fun project!


stamped and snail mailed

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks! I am aiming for something light but strong. I was amazed how much stronger it got after it was welded together. I expected it to still be a bit flexible, but it isn't.

As for a floor, I looked at expanded and flattened metal, as well as some welded wire products. For right now, I will leave it open. I have lived with the open floor on my current rack forever, it really isn't that big of a deal. I might make some clip in panels.

[Kryptoroxx]

It looks great the way it is. I just think sheet metal is going to rust out on you eventually

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

I won't put sheet metal on the bottom, just up the leading edge for air flow. I'm thinking tinted Lexan or acrylic will do nicely, and I will try to get it close to the roof as well, make it as streamlined as possible.

Today I will toss it on top and see what my mounts are going to look like, so I can build those tomorrow. Also finish up the light tabs and clean up all the welds tomorrow to get it ready for paint mid-week. Once I get it finally mounted to the truck, I can run all the wiring for the crimping party on Saturday at a friend's house. I'm excited!

[Kryptoroxx]

I've got popcorn so I'm staying for the show

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

It is really hard to say goodbye to the old Surco. It has been on my truck since nearly the beginning, and has become such a part of the vehicle. I will really miss it.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2820/11916827865_af2ac927b3_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11916827865/)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/11917105693_839405ea5c_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11917105693/)

Obligatory topless picture:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/11917712406_208c110dd2_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11917712406/)

Test fit:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/11916815495_8a34dbc31e_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11916815495/)
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3709/11917267584_e0d21a7cbe_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11917267584/)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5533/11917698706_53623e4286_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11917698706/)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/11917695816_1a4c78a933_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11917695816/)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5513/11916802035_05e70163b2_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11916802035/)

Ignore the peeling clear coat. That is another project for another day.

I did find that the rack is slightly warped. I might try to straighten it or just call it good.

I left enough room between the rack and hatch for the coming strobe light mounts. The rack fits really nicely and I am very pleased with it. Legs will be extremely short, maybe half an inch? I want to keep this low.

[Kryptoroxx]

I have the same problem on my 4runner with the clearcoat. Monstaliner is what I'm doing to fix it.

Rack looks great! Keeps a low profile and goes the whole length. Best of all it doesn't cost 700+ bucks although the whitson rack does look nice.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

http://whitsonmetalworks.com/full-length-3rd-gen-rack/

I do love that rack. It sits a bit closer to the body because it is curved. I will do a best fit for mine.

[4x4mike]

Looks good Sean. Glad to see you finishing it up.

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks Mike. I know you've been wanting me to finish it for some time ;)

Right now, I am waiting for this to finish:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3827/11934097275_c4f2bd86c0_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11934097275/)

Waiting sucks...

[4x4mike]

Safety first...I suppose.

[Seanz0rz]

Welding zinc coated things (galvanized) is not only unhealthy, especially without fresh air, it just makes for awful welds. And when it is on thin material, it just makes it even worse. This piece is pretty thick, ~0.100, but I still rather have nice welds. Also, the galvanizing on this is VERY thick. The EMT you can remove it with a wire brush on either a drill or bench grinder or a flap disk on an angle grinder. On the RMC, it is very thick, like galvanized iron pipe. It required an aluminum oxide grinding wheel, and it still took a while to get down to steel. The chemical way is so much quicker and less effort. While I was waiting, I fixed a garden ornament.

[4x4mike]

I hear ya. The EMT I used on my bike rack was similar. I took the grinder to it but didn't get much off as I needed the OD about where it was. I was out on the driveway, holding my breath with a fan pointed in my general direction. For the most part I survived.

[Seanz0rz]

The 1/2" twist or so that I have is really upsetting me. What I found is that I can elastically flex the rack to be straight, but it does not want to stay in that position. I cannot put enough force into it to cause any permanent deformation. I think I will build a bit more allowance into the mounts and then just push them down and call it good. If the back is not level, it is very noticeable. If the front is not straight, it is less obvious due to the curved windshield, etc. It isn't much, but it has thrown a wrench into my plans and making everything take much longer than planned.

[4x4mike]

My little rack the length of the factory roof tracks and the width of the tracks. It's not totally straight/flat. Part of the reason is that it's so many pieces but also because I got up there right after I built it and kind of bent it. When I bolt it down I tighten each 'foot' down one at a time and the last two, doesn't matter which side or where I start, I have to push it down to get bolts in it.

I don't take it on/off a lot so it doesn't bother me. In fact just sitting up there it's only about an inch high on one mounting surface. I assume it's somewhat loaded once bolted down but it's been in use for awhile now and I haven't found any cracks or other problems.


Is yours that much out of whack? What about cutting it in a somewhat hidden spot here or there to straighten it out then reweld? I did that on my hitch basket after I over loaded it with firewood while wheeling. Cut then reweld and it's good to go.

[Seanz0rz]

There is enough flex to get it to cooperate. I welded up the mounts, they are cooling. Now I need to put them up on the vehicle, bolt them down, then position the rack just right and tack them. Once I get those welded, I can move on to the front mounts, which should be fairly easy to make. Unfortunately, my welder doesn't reach where the 4Runner is, so I will have to dig out the generator for those tacks. Bleh.

[Seanz0rz]

Feet are tacked on:

Middle feet:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3785/11939210344_64b868a630_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11939210344/)

Rear feet:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3821/11939212284_3633d0fd22_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11939212284/)

Once those are welded, I will probably work on the light and antenna tabs, get those all welded up, then toss it back up and measure for the front mounts. Once those are done, it will come off, get all cleaned up, painted and then wired. Almost there.

Today seemed like I worked all day but got nearly nothing done. Not sure where my time went.

[Seanz0rz]

Today was a light day.

Turn/Strobe brackets:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2856/11956280743_fccdfe7f35_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11956280743/)

Eight tabs, all ready to be cut:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/11955986585_c3b7fe4a15_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11955986585/)

Rear tabs (not sure what the camera was trying to focus on, it's been doing that lately):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5538/11955985025_2285a1707b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11955985025/)

Front tabs:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/11955983565_afd1402d7d_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11955983565/)

Daylighter tabs:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/11956405494_9bd2944b00_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11956405494/)
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3714/11956272523_129cd9f449_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11956272523/)

Got some of the grinding done today. Tomorrow I will finish up the grinding, get it all ready for primer, and hopefully start priming. At least with the super low humidity and relatively high temps (80F and 5%RH), everything should dry pretty quickly.

Also got some KC parts in the mail. Waiting on a couple more parts, then the lights will get refurbished. Besides being somewhat iconic on my vehicle, and the way I find it in a parking lot, the Daylighters were a gift from my late uncle and have become quite special to me. They will remain on my truck for as long as possible.

[DHC6twinotter]

Looks great, Sean!

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks Dan! Back in NC now?

[DHC6twinotter]

Yup! Pulled in about an hour ago.

[Seanz0rz]

Oh, another question or thought. I had decided on the hammer black rustoleum, but seeing the rack in bare metal makes me think it would look better in hammer silver that matches my bumpers and sliders. I have a day to decide. I guess I could always repaint it later.

[4x4mike]

To each is own. The hammer black is more of a gray but still darker than your bumpers.

[Seanz0rz]

Still out on the color, leaning more to black, but who knows.

Lunch break. Had to trim the Daylighter bolts so they would not hit the sunroof.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3747/11971290036_a9a58d3b7b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11971290036/)

Also got the front feet all welded up:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/11970867624_a3ce00d844_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11970867624/)

The front feet are designed to remain attached to the vehicle with the rack removed. Each will be connected with 2 1/4" cap screws. The feet will attach to the roof with some heavy duty double sided tape.

[Seanz0rz]

Last pic before paint!

NMO mount:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/11972791623_579f1a2ffe_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/11972791623/)

I am really looking forward to having this done. It has come out very nice and I am very happy with it.

In the above pic, you can see a hole in the tube. There are several more, all to run wires inside the tubes. I know that will be tricky. I am investigating the best way to fish the wires through, but i am thinking something like thin string trimmer line or some 14 AWG THHN wire.

[4x4mike]

I just bought a new road bike frame set and it had internally routed cables. It's about keeping the appearance clean and for aerodynamics but it was a dosey getting everything routed. Specialized ships the bikes with cable sheaths in the frame which you're supposed to slide the cables through. I ripped a sheath and had to play go fish. After about 2 hours the first night I gave up and got another sheath. In the end it required some fishing line and a homemade grabbing tool fashioned out of a wooden kabob stick.

I would use machinist wire as you can bend it here and there but you can also use a magnet or magnetized screwdriver or something similar to grab it. If you think you might be routing additional wire in the future run it know or leave a string in there or something similar.

[Bandit Runner]

When I built my roof rack, I pulled all the wires through the tubing. What I did was tie a small weight (a fishing sinker works well) to a string. Drop the weight into the opening you want the wires to come out, and feed the string through the tubing until it gets to the opening by the light hole. Fish the string out of the hole with a bent piece of wire. The string should be long enough so that both ends are outside of the tubing. Now tie the string to all the wires you want to pull through the tubing, and gently pull on the other end of the string to pull the wires through. You might need another person to "push" on the wires, while you pull the string.

I was able to get the wires around corners and bends using this method. Good luck

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/Roof%20Rack%20Build/PICT1921_zps8b1daf2b.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/Roof%20Rack%20Build/PICT1922_zpsa024e4a5.jpg

Final results (no wires showing at all):
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/PICT1996_zps8cd67ce8.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/PICT1998_zpsc1f228e2.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/PICT2000_zps6d76c83a.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/PICT2001_zpsf6eee072.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/PICT2002_zpsbfe824c4.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/PICT2004_zps2576d2a8.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii93/woltejt/PICT2005_zps197a1adc.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

Paint is done! At least for now. I know I will have to do some touch ups soon, and then probably another full recoat come summer time.

Working on the wiring now. All the paperwork is done, now I just need to run the wire through the tube. I don't foresee too much trouble with it. Tomorrow I will run wires then mount it up on the truck. Driving to a friend's house so he can help me crimp up the weather pack and other connectors with the appropriate crimper, and get everything all wired up as far as the roof is concerned. There will be some more work to get everything connected inside. It will be very nice to have roof lights again, it has been several years.

Bandit, you posted right as I did. Thanks! That rack looks really good btw. I used your guide to do the headlights as well, thank you for that.

My backup plan is similar to yours. I will try pushing the wire first. 2 of my runs have 2 bends to go through, the third has one bend and the 4th no bends. It should be fairly easy to run. If that doesn't work, then I will resort to the string and weight.

[Seanz0rz]

Saturday Morning:
Paint is "dry", and I told my very good friend John I would be at his house about 12pm. Time to run some wire!
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5512/12075761435_339be76819_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12075761435/)

Ended up using rebar tie wire to fish the wires through the rack. It was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated, but no big deal. Took longer than I had thought.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/12076062043_84a7e312ef_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076062043/)

Running the wires, I found the paint was indeed, NOT dry. It actually still isn't dry. I knew this and have experienced it before, but never to this degree. I blame the extremely dry weather and very cold nights (mid 30's), despite the mid 80 days. When the wire was done, we tossed it up top, screwed it down and I drove the 45 miles to Johns. From there, there aren't alot of pictures. Total time at his place was 11 hours, with a few of those doing another car's fog light harness. We finished about midnight.

John is a friend of mine from Cal Poly. He did my first stereo install over 7 years ago. His work is always top notch, not to mention he had the crimper for the AMP connectors for the Blitzpro lights, as well as the weatherpack connectors for the roof harness. I owe him big after the work he put in!

I had him shorten the side light harness for a cleaner install:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/12075753365_26880f750f_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12075753365/)

My roof turned into a work bench:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2864/12076055813_7d238a3eef_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076055813/)

Weatherpack:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/12076149474_308b726e13_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076149474/)

Got it all buttoned up at 12:15AM Sunday, and I drove back home. Sunday was a wasted day, my legs were like jelly after 12 hours of standing, mostly on the rear bumper, rear tires, or sliders.

Monday afternoon I went back out and worked on the interior portions. It is a pretty big bundle running down the D pillar now, so much so it was difficult getting the panel to snap back into place.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/12076388716_4231b3a531_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076388716/)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/12076046363_b270710b88_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076046363/)

Relays for each zone. There are inline fuses under the panel that I didn't get a good photo of. The big red wire from the right connects under the seat, as seen in my compressor install.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5537/12076047933_9a5dc71efe_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076047933/)

Roof passage:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5517/12076380646_5e1ce7786d_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076380646/)

Brown and yellow go to the rear wing. Installing the rear rack lights on the rack itself put them too far forward and made them useless. At 12AM we crimped the wrong sex connector, so John will mail me some proper fitting connectors soon.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3822/12076377736_84dc82dbf6_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076377736/)

[Seanz0rz]

"Finished" product:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3753/12076135644_88f75e7129_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076135644/)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7365/12076374196_dd24ab0807_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076374196/)

Loose connectors for now. They will eventually run through the high mount brake light lens.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3734/12076131714_cf316de763_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076131714/)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3742/12076128804_b8beff98d6_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076128804/)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3673/12075727055_64a0874088_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12075727055/)

Roof connectors:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3719/12076364716_59b8214390_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076364716/)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/12076362396_6c1c03596b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076362396/)

I am not happy with the zip tie here, but it is necessary. I am looking for another way to secure the bundle.

Everything is sealed up with silicone, and will probably be touched up later this week to ensure no water penetrates the roof.

Still need to do something with this wire, since I couldn't run it through the tube. I am thinking some single screw cable clips will work well.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5535/12076359626_3930d3fc50_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12076359626/)

Waiting on more parts to rehab the Daylighters and install them. Also need to install a wind deflector. She growls at 35 and above.

I am sort of indifferent on the color so far. We will see what it looks like with the deflector and with all the paint touched up. She might get a coat of silver if the black doesn't grow on me.

Thanks for reading. I should get light parts today, hopefully have them completed tomorrow.

[YotaFun]

Looks great Sean!
I'm jealous but I know the hard work that went into it.
I was def hoping you would keep with the theme and go silver on the paint lol!

Curious though on the wiring in the d-pillar, would it not fit in one of the holes to run in behind the metal instead of on top of it?

[Seanz0rz]

My fitment issue on the D pillar was really at the headliner. The 2 clips on that corner of the window did not want to engage without popping out. I think as the heat softens the split loom, it will be fine. I don't know why I didn't duck it into the pillar sooner, I guess I followed the factory wiring on the outside when I did the turn signals years ago, and didn't even think of it this time.

Also, thanks for the kind words. It WAS a lot of work. I will let it sit with the darker color for a while, if it doesn't grow on me, I will pull it down and paint it silver.

[Kryptoroxx]

Hey man that came out really well. It tempts me to go get some tubing and give it a shot but I am pretty sure my wife would kill me. I really like the lights as well. The function is there as well the cool factor. Very well done and I will probably end up copying a bit when I do get around to it. How much weight do you think it will support?

[Seanz0rz]

I think it would easily support 100 pounds on each mount, so 400 pounds or so. It would support a RTT I think. In terms of dynamic load, I would keep it under 100 pounds, just because of the factory mounts.

Rack weighs about 40 pounds I think.

Got the rest of the parts for the Daylighters tonight, and they are already reassembled.

[Seanz0rz]

Daylighter HID upgrade: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10558-KC-Daylighter-HID-conversion-EASY!&p=109983#post109983

[4x4mike]

Looks good Sean. I like the color but I'm partial to it. I've found it needs heat and UV to dry and yes it will stay soft for over a week. I've got finger prints on half the stuff I paint with hammer finish, especially if it's brush on.

It's dark at my house. Where are the night shots?

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks! I have plenty of experience with the brush on stuff, but this is softer than my past experiences. Wonder if the primer had something to do with it?

Still waiting on the Daylighters to go up, and the rear lights won't be operational until the weekend at the earliest. The general consensus is "stupid bright".

[Bandit Runner]

Looks really good! I have a set of the Blitzpro lights on the rear of my rack too. I really like them.

[DHC6twinotter]

Looks awesome, Sean! I like the lights mounted on there. I like the black color too.

[Seanz0rz]

Daylighters are wired up:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3665/12094868533_a191bdfb3a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12094868533/)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/12095165596_6621494f61_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12095165596/)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5489/12094889794_c9b1b589e8_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12094889794/)

Tried to make a wind deflector. I hated it.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/12094525195_34b05d7e68_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12094525195/)

Instead, I went after the growl that exists above 35mph. I put tape between the cross bars and the roof and drove on the freeway. No more growl! Stopped by Home Depot on the way home and bought some thick weather stripping and placed it between the cross bars and the roof. I will test drive it tomorrow.

This one is for all of you on the east coast, shoveling snow!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/12094988473_3e173d80e5_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12094988473/)

Feels so much better having the Daylighters on the roof again. I am glad I spent the money to rehab them.

I still need to find a home for the license plate. It used to live on the roof rack, but now I don't really have a place for it.

[paddlenbike]

Looks great Sean. You are going to be well-illuminated in camp.

You said you put tape between the roof and cross bars and your 35 MPH + growl went away. What did you mean by that? My Yakima roof rack with bike attachments was so noisy with that similar growl that I finally took it off and put the stock rack back on. I could not figure out why it was making so much noise.

[Seanz0rz]

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/12095195315_23475541eb_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/12095195315/)

Not a great picture, it's dark outside. The cross bars are so close to the roof it was causing a noise like blowing across the mouth of a bottle or jug. Except louder.

I might add a deflector from the roof up to the bottom of the rack. The sunroof is a bit noisy.

[paddlenbike]

Interesting. My cross bars were probably 5" off the roof and it howled like crazy. It didn't do that when they were new, but I can't imagine what could have changed, they're just tubes.

[Seanz0rz]

Basically, you're looking to interrupt the air flow that is causing the noise, essentially spoiling the flow. Since our roofs are so flexible, I think mine was vibrating and causing the low pitch noise. My old rack whistled. I've seen on other racks that a flat piece of material behind the leading tube smooths the flow. Very difficult to give an exact solution, just use your instincts on where you think the noise might be coming from and use some temporary solutions like blue tape and cardboard.

[YotaFun]

Thanks for shoving the good weather in my face Sean :-P
I do have 4wd and a big lifted vehicle I don't have to worry about the shoveling part hehehe

Back to the rack, it looks great especially with the daylighters back on, and its awesome you found a fix, and it makes sense on why it made that noise there.

[Seanz0rz]

Since I pretzel'd mine in the roll over, it is time for 2.0

Here is something I drew up real quick. Ignore the sides being too long.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7509/15629079014_8c12e6e5f4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pP67Fy)

I don't think I like it, but it is a step towards something. Maybe round tube would look better? I dunno.

[Robinhood4x4]

Yeah, round always looks better...more professional. Square tubing looks ok if the corners are bent and not welded but at that point you still need a bender so might as well go round.

[Kryptoroxx]

Since I pretzel'd mine in the roll over, it is time for 2.0

Here is something I drew up real quick. Ignore the sides being too long.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7509/15629079014_8c12e6e5f4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pP67Fy)

I don't think I like it, but it is a step towards something. Maybe round tube would look better? I dunno.
Since you are looking for more of a platform than something with sides you could run 1x2 on the sides and either notch the cross braces in using 1x1 or 1x1/2. That would give you strength while ensuring you aren't making it a boat anchor.

I spent a good bit of time comparing weights on the different sizes available till I found something that worked for the design.

You could also look into the atv ramp rack. It was first seen on a land cruiser. Looked pretty stout for putting an rtt up there.

[Seanz0rz]

I've seen the j-moose rack (I think I STILL have the bookmark somewhere). I am looking for steel that I can put my RTT on easily. I am not a huge fan of working with aluminum at this point, mechanical and chemical fasteners have let me down for structural stuff.

I actually might use the aft-end of my roof rack (relatively undamaged) and build a new front for it.

[Kryptoroxx]

I've seen the j-moose rack (I think I STILL have the bookmark somewhere). I am looking for steel that I can put my RTT on easily. I am not a huge fan of working with aluminum at this point, mechanical and chemical fasteners have let me down for structural stuff.

I actually might use the aft-end of my roof rack (relatively undamaged) and build a new front for it.
There's an rtt in the hobby shop right now. Let me get my haircut and I will go take a good look at how it mounts and stuff. Maybe take a few pics too.

It's on the back of a danger ranger lol


Fast forward 15 minutes.....

All you need to support the rtt is what looks like 1x1x.090 so still pretty lightweight. There were only 4 contact points for the tent to the rack and the rtt itself had its own aluminum 1x1 and the aluminum sheet.

No wonder they are so expensive lol.

Anyway if you made an outer of 1x2x.060 and then supported with 4 or 5 cross braces of .5 sq then I think you would have a rather lightweight support solution. Certainly lighter than my rack.

[Kryptoroxx]

mounts for the factory tracks:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/9234564989_ddc234e05b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9234564989/)

Something sorta similar for the forward mounts to the body, but without holes and probably lower profile. I will figure out those later
Can you snap a few pics of your forward mounts when you get a chance? I've got something in mind but it's kinda tricky to build imo and just as difficult to describe.

So my idea is made out of flat steel. The bottom has a hole drilled for the foot and then forward of the hole is a v shape out of flat steel that is the mount but the bottom of the v is an angled cut to compensate for the angle on the roof.

Clear as mud right? Lol

[Seanz0rz]

I'll snap a pic when I get home.

[Seanz0rz]

Didn't get a chance to get a pic, there are a couple pics in this thread that had it in it, and this pic from my roll over thread.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/15309063631_6b47537e71_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pjNXfX)

[Kryptoroxx]

Didn't get a chance to get a pic, there are a couple pics in this thread that had it in it, and this pic from my roll over thread.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/15309063631_6b47537e71_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pjNXfX)
That's a pretty good pic actually. I should have looked in the roll thread. Re reading your build though reminded me that at some point I will have to drop wiring through the ceiling lol. I've got an idea for that though methinks.

What you did is about what I was thinking. I will do some figuring and see what I can come up with. Wish I had a tool that would assist me in finding the angle where my feet are going to be lol