4x4mike
08-11-2013, 09:49 PM
Paddlenbike posting the other day about replacing the o-ring on his MAF sensor reminded me of an MAF mod I did.
His link http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?861-paddlenbike-s-2000-4Runner&p=108197&viewfull=1#post108197
I used to have to pull my MAF near every trip because I'd get a check engine light after a dusty trail. Part of my problem is that I was always cleaning the incorrect portion of the sensor and second, my sensor wasn't properly screwed down. Some where during my routine cleanings I tore out the threaded insert for one of the MAF sensor screws. The insert looks like a small .22 bullet and is knurled. It maybe pressed into the air intake tube with heat or just force but it stripped out of the air tube. For about two years I left it attached to the screw and just used one screw to hold the sensor in.
Ken's post reminded me of an update. I finally got around to removing the old screw and insert. I used an ez-out to remove the screw and then JB welded the insert back into the air tube. I replaced the screws with stainless steel hex head screws of the same size. I did this with the similar small screws on my IAC valve because those got buggered up pretty quickly.
I like the hex heads because a hex key has a lot more contact and doesn't strip like the Phillips screws. Even if it does the head can be notched so a straight blade screwdriver can be used to pull it. I used the hex heads here also because they make it possible for the sensor to be moved with a tool the size of a tooth pick and without the removal of the cruise control box. I always carry metric hex keys in my glove box but not always sockets and extensions. I suggest stainless because the black oxide screws do corrode pretty easily and that may have been the issue with my factory screw. It may have grabbed on to the insert too well and stripped when it was trying to be removed.
Above is a screw that is partially stripped on the head and the other has been drilled out. Their replacements are below them.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j2VEaw4cjas/UghgQr7KCpI/AAAAAAAA6to/0XwGq49C8YQ/s800/20130811_131611.jpg
This is a hex key in the upper screw. Plenty of room without removing any other components.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6e82BP2-r7I/UghgR_UhFdI/AAAAAAAA6tw/vyl-xtqLgXU/s800/20130811_131919.jpg
His link http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?861-paddlenbike-s-2000-4Runner&p=108197&viewfull=1#post108197
I used to have to pull my MAF near every trip because I'd get a check engine light after a dusty trail. Part of my problem is that I was always cleaning the incorrect portion of the sensor and second, my sensor wasn't properly screwed down. Some where during my routine cleanings I tore out the threaded insert for one of the MAF sensor screws. The insert looks like a small .22 bullet and is knurled. It maybe pressed into the air intake tube with heat or just force but it stripped out of the air tube. For about two years I left it attached to the screw and just used one screw to hold the sensor in.
Ken's post reminded me of an update. I finally got around to removing the old screw and insert. I used an ez-out to remove the screw and then JB welded the insert back into the air tube. I replaced the screws with stainless steel hex head screws of the same size. I did this with the similar small screws on my IAC valve because those got buggered up pretty quickly.
I like the hex heads because a hex key has a lot more contact and doesn't strip like the Phillips screws. Even if it does the head can be notched so a straight blade screwdriver can be used to pull it. I used the hex heads here also because they make it possible for the sensor to be moved with a tool the size of a tooth pick and without the removal of the cruise control box. I always carry metric hex keys in my glove box but not always sockets and extensions. I suggest stainless because the black oxide screws do corrode pretty easily and that may have been the issue with my factory screw. It may have grabbed on to the insert too well and stripped when it was trying to be removed.
Above is a screw that is partially stripped on the head and the other has been drilled out. Their replacements are below them.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j2VEaw4cjas/UghgQr7KCpI/AAAAAAAA6to/0XwGq49C8YQ/s800/20130811_131611.jpg
This is a hex key in the upper screw. Plenty of room without removing any other components.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6e82BP2-r7I/UghgR_UhFdI/AAAAAAAA6tw/vyl-xtqLgXU/s800/20130811_131919.jpg