MPG woes

[Kryptoroxx]

So I have a 2.7 4x4 4runner and my mpgs are a little on the low side. Its kind of a wallowing pig in mud compared to the 3.4 anyway but on to my thoughts.

My tires measure 31.9in so those are well over the stock 30?(not sure but I have a base model). They also stick out from the side of the truck 1.5in so that doesn't help either.

I found the bigger problem tonight when I checked my valves. The picture tells all bit intakes are supposed to be .006-.010 and exhausts are .010-.014. Here are mine.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/avurudy4.jpg

So x's cost me money.

I don't think I have toasted any valves but is there a way to tell? The valve cover had some toasted oil near cyl #4 but everything else is a nice golden brown. I will have pics tomorrow.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Kryptoroxx]

Here are the pics from the engine and valve cover. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/12/u3ame9e4.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/12/me5enune.jpg

Also having a bear of a time removing these shims. I have the tool needed but I am having first time troubles. Apparently the 3rz uses the same shims as the 5vz so anyone have any tips?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

Hopefully Yotafun will chime in. I don't know much about engine internals, especially the specifics of these engines.

Avy, can you help?

[Kryptoroxx]

Well there is more good news and bad news.

The good news is that I while I am out of spec I can still correct it. I also found a nifty excel sheet that did all of the math for me. I took a look at all of the equations and they seem legit. Later today after my back feels better I will do the math manually.

Findings: (intake spec-.005-.010 and exhaust spec. 010-.014)

I11-.007
I12-.007
E11-.004 .1135
E12-.007 .1125

I21-.008
I22-.008
E21-.005 .1155
E22-.006 .1140

I31-.008
I32-.008
E31-.005 .1135
E32-.007 .1125

I41-.006 .1120
I42-.005 .1120
E41-.007 .1155
E42-.006 .1155

So for calculations the equation looks like this N=T + (A-V):
N= New Shim size
T= Old Shim size
A= Measured Valve Clearance
V= Desired Valve Clearance

I ended up needing 1x #4, 4x #5, 4x #6, and 1x #7.

The shims that were bad were all exhaust and one intake. Hopefully the #4 valves are not toast. I do not have any of the indicators of that besides the toasted oil stuck to the bottom of the valve cover.

The bad news is that what I have discovered from my research is that I will probably have to rebuild the head if I keep this thing on the road for another 400k :-P. As the valve wears against the seat it needs less and less of a shim to operate correctly. So when you have all your calculations done there will be numbers for your shim. Lower numbers mean start saving for rebuilding your head and getting a new valvetrain. I glanced at the prices on LCE and this stuff will tingle a bit. It would almost be cheaper to just order one of their performance engines.

So here are my tips for valve clearance checks and shim removal.

#1 You are going tp get filthy and keeping your hands clean will be important. Make sure you have rags

#2 My biggest problem was not being patient. The shims will be suction stuck in the shim buckets. When you have everything set up and you are using a small flathead to pop the shim give it a few seconds or ten.

#3 Have a strong skinny magnet available. After you pop the shim using your screwdriver the book says tweezers or pliers. There might be room for this on a bench but on the 2.7 and I imagine even less room on the 3.4 a strong magnet will help immensely. I was also using a dental scraper (I use it for getting heavy carbon out of delicate areas when cleaning weapons). It helped but be very careful. If the valve prop fails that valve spring has quite a bit of pressure behind it and will break the scraper. Then you are trying to find a tiny piece of metal in an oily mess.

#4 Best not to do it during a block party or kids birthday party. Even with the right tools this is a royal pita and you should swear. Its theraputic for the Toyota.

#5 this is a gimme but write down everything. Make sure to organize it so that you can write it down clearly. Your piece of paper is going to get fubar'd.

#6 I didn't realize that when you remove the shim the cam will rotate in but not rotate out of the shim bucket. Probably best to measure the shim and record it and then slide it back into position if you do not have shims available on scene. I did not do this and I am sure I will pay dearly for this.

#7 Keep your shims! It might be that after doing the math you can swap shims within your engine to make it all work. These puppies are 9 bucks apiece after shipping. Lucky I only have 16.

#8 Position the tool around the cam shaft farthest away from the bearing. Rotate to depress the valve spring towards the interior of the engine. The other little tool is a prop and I put it right by the bearing as the cam is just a tiny bit thicker there and will help you get the shim out. It takes practice to put the prop on the shim bucket edge but after getting the first one it isn't too bad.

#9 the rearmost valve springs are simply a pain. It took me an hour to get two shims out on the backside. There is no room to play with and you are performing by feel alone. Just leave them for last or after you have the hang of it.

#10 Another gimme but take a look at the spark plug seals, valve cover seals, and the little grommit seals that go on the bolts. It might be time to replace those.

I think that about covers it. I learned a lot yesterday. Battlewagonactual missed all of it but that's ok. His clutch is slipping quite badly. We might take a look at his valves next and I will make sure to take pictures.



stamped and snail mailed

[04 Rocko Taco]

Nice tech and good info, keep us updated on the results.

[Kryptoroxx]

Will do. I am waiting on parts currently but they should arrive by Friday. Wife has got me booked for most of the weekend but I will try to get her put back together before next week.

stamped and snail mailed

[Kryptoroxx]

I've got shims and the main part of the gasket in today. I should have the seals for the bolts in. Sadly I'm headed to long beach tomorrow evening and tonight was taken up with constructing a baby bouncer lol. In other news I also received my Monstaliner chip set!! I'm trying to find a color that goes well with the green metallic like color.

[Kryptoroxx]

OK all good news today. Everything is back in place and my little 2.7 purrs quite well now and the throttle response definitely feels better. I have to push less on the gas pedal to make speed and that is definitely an improvement. She was feeling a little sluggish before. While waiting for time to do the valve shims I ran into a thread over on TTORA that directly addressed my 2.7L which helps. Apparently 240k maintenance pretty much sums up what I have done recently plus a few things like main cyl flush, slave flush, and radiator flush. I also should probably replace the fuel filter.

Anyway on to the main point. Finishing the valves. The first pic is how I was lining up the tools to remove and in addition it helps to do it this way when installing shims as well because the edge of the bucket lines up with the bearing support wall. BTW I don't have three hands...my wife is helping by taking pictures lol.

**Final Tip**
If you do like I did and remove all the shims that need replacement be very careful to either A: make sure the cam lobes do NOT rotate into the buckets or B: You devise a way to depress the buckets to where you can rotate the lobes out of the buckets.

My version of B was to use two flat head screwdrivers and slide them in where the valve spring prop would go on each valve for the cyl you are working with. With a little force the valve bucket will depress allowing the cam to rotate out. Since I didn't have three hands and my wife gave me the long look when I asked for help BattleWagonActual came over and rotated the engine for me. So if you are by yourself some fancy foot action and or genetic manipulation (growing another arm and hand) might be required.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/513/6fs3.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/e96fs3j)

For the most part I had no trouble at all getting the shims in however I did have to position the shim to where it nearly fits and then release the valve bucket as gently as possible and then push the shim into place. Then the valve spring did the rest of the work for me.

At the very end I used carb cleaner and a rag to clean off the top of the head and the bottom of the valve cover so that the new seals would seat nicely and cleanly. At the front where the metal half moons are I put a little bit of RTV high temp to ensure that no oil would squeak through.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/197/4fui.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/5h4fuij)

This just shows the tools I was working with for the most part. The top two pieces are from LC Engineering and made especially for the Toyota Valves with bucket under shim so I am pretty sure they could be used for the 5vz. Cost isn't too bad but I think they were 50 bucks. Considering that my shims ran 90 bucks and the dealership would have started at 500 bucks....we are still in the positive lol.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/268/ujw1.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/7gujw1j)

When I get back this weekend I will check for oil leaks and such with a final report. Much to my dismay my 22r is screaming for attention with a timing belt job :(

Also if anyone is interested attached is the excel spreadsheet that did the calculations for me so download and make your life easier. I believe that this could also be very easily modified to accommodate the 5vz.

[Seanz0rz]

Great tech here, thanks for the post!

Also, glad you got it back in one piece. Every time I take apart the truck I end up with more pieces than I started with!

[Kryptoroxx]

Thanks!! I could have sworn I said timing chain for the 22r but I must have been cross eyed or something lol.

I have not put the skid plate on yet so there is still the possibility of having extra parts....especially if some savage or bud builts showed up at my door magically lol. I did have lots of pieces that were replaced. I am not sure what to do with the shims honestly. If they are that expensive then maybe someone could use the sizes that I have.

I will report back on the mpg and other items of interest. I am planning seafoam for the crankcase and the gas tank to help clean everything out, flushing the brake system, flushing the clutch line, replacing the fuel filter, flushing the radiator, and I need to do drum shoes (although I would much rather convert to disc, but the money tree lost a couple of branches)


stamped and snail mailed

[Seanz0rz]

put the shims up on ebay or in the classifieds here. I know there are alot of people who like to collect parts.

as for disc brakes, it just isn't worth the cost on our rigs. I really looked into it, but the slight increase in performance and lessening of the PITA factor isn't worth the few grand it costs.

[Kryptoroxx]

put the shims up on ebay or in the classifieds here. I know there are alot of people who like to collect parts.

as for disc brakes, it just isn't worth the cost on our rigs. I really looked into it, but the slight increase in performance and lessening of the PITA factor isn't worth the few grand it costs.

Hmmm I didn't think it would cost that much. I was going to go to the junkyard for most of my stuff.

stamped and snail mailed

[Kryptoroxx]

Just a quick update and this will apply to the 3.4 or the 2.7 as well. I needed to do my oil change and tire rotation anyway today but before I went I put half a can of Seafoam and had the engine running and driving for about an hour before I went in and changed it. Man did it make a difference. I also have been running Lucas synthetic oil stabolizer (about a pint each change) while I run a 10w/30 Mobil One Synthetic. Next paycheck will be new belts and flush on the radiator and the brakes if finances will allow for me to do that. So here's what's been done so far.

Gear oil change
Tranny and xfer oil change
Valve adjustment
Complete Seafoam treatment (vacuum, crankcase, and fuel tank)

Results have been a much smoother idle and "lighter" feel in the skinny pedal. I know my mpg has gone up but I am waiting to see by how much. I will calculate next tank.

[Kryptoroxx]

*Update*
Discovered 2 things wrong with my initial tranny oil change. It's the wrong type. I should have done more research but everyone swears by the Redline MT-90 GL4 for the w59 so that's what is sitting in my garage right now.

Also might be looking at changing out an o2 sensor or MAF. I am still trying to work out if mine are reading properly. I am doing more research but at least I have my scan tool helping me out. Unfortunately I am not an expert on reading the data displayed so BattleWagon was giving me a hand for a little bit tonight trying to see what's up. I'm running below 20mpg all of a sudden and I'm chasing down the why.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/cKsRQe.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipcKsRQej)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/674/Je3ugg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/iqJe3uggj)

This is going to take more research but I want to get this sorted out before Colorado. I am still fighting to get the time to do the regearing (which may or may not help) from 4.1 to 4.3. I think since I run a slightly oversize tire it will help however if I have a failing coil, a/c compressor, bad o2 sensor, bad maf, or anything else it will definitely hurt fuel econ. It could also be a failing fuel pump. All of a sudden my truck will die at idle sometimes....it just started a couple of days ago. Not too worried about it on base but if I'm on my way to colorado where I can't do it myself that pump could hurt the pocketbook a lot.

[Seanz0rz]

What the regear will do: Going numerically higher with the bigger tires will take you closer to a stock final drive. The reason I haven't regeared (other than the cost) is the highway mileage. Since I am turning about 2000 rpm at 70 (or close to), I get good highway mileage. I get trash mileage in town and climbing hills since the engine struggles at acceleration and there is not enough torque at low RPMs to push me up a hill. I require a down shift to make it up at speed, or I'm required to go very slow, but still in a lower gear.

what all that means: With bigger than stock tires, numerically low ratios will net you a lower cruising RPM and possibly an increase in MPG on the highway. Numerically higher ratios will give you more torque at slower speeds, and possibly better MPG at slower speeds at the expense of cruising MPG. Obviously dozens of other factors, but that is what I have found to be true over the last nearly 8 years of owning a lifted truck.

I can't pretend to understand anything about O2 sensors. They are witch craft as far as I'm concerned. I replaced mine a while back when fuel economy hit the bottom. They helped a bit, but there are probably other issues.

I too have the truck nearly stall at idle, especially after coming off the freeway. I suspect the idle air control valve is failing, but it could also be a leaky/stuck fuel injector. I don't think it is the fuel pump since I have no problems close to redline, even for slightly extended jaunts.

[Kryptoroxx]

I think I might just get some fuel system cleaner and see if that doesn't help. I've been watching youtube videos of all the problems I might have and it makes me wonder if they do maintenance at all. It seems to be a fuel issue but I chased down prices on all the parts that it could be with no real answer yet

Fuel pump $368
Fuel Injector set (these are balanced from LC) $200 with a $48 core charge
Ignition Coil Set (paradise racing has a whole bunch of these used for $60 a pair (worth it to me as lots of guys go buy cherry 2/3rz engines and then send them off to paradise for forced induction...and they are OEM)
A/C Compressor I think I found some Denso's for 250 or so but I am going to wait till the summer prices drop. My compressor isn't that loud yet.

I'm going to check my plugs and wires tonight if I get some time. I also have to get my rollbar ready today. I am painting some rocker panels this weekend and I know there will be lots left over for me to paint it....but I have to be able to paint it so I have to fabricate it today...or at the latest tomorrow so I can paint and cure the paint the rest of the weekend.

[4x4mike]

It seems you have a lot going on. You're mentioning a couple concerns (problems?) as well as replacing items.

I'm going to start with the diagnostic screen shots. You posted them up because you seem to be under 20 mpg, correct? Is this 20 mpg number from your calcs or the program? What were you using before the program? Just so you know most of the regular posters here get below that and have perfectly functioning vehicles.

Also, were the screen shots taken just after start up? After being driven and warm? You've got two screen shots with differing RPM while some of the numbers remain the same.

I've got an Ultra Gauge and I have it set up a little different but below are some of my numbers. These pictures were taken in the Spring, at start up in the morning.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UF9GIiwSEo4/U15YZzyMaZI/AAAAAAAA_i4/vAFTcTo52rY/s800/20140428_052132.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-523RhiMjvoo/U15YajQ_a3I/AAAAAAAA_i4/FqZRCUKFoQQ/s800/20140428_052140.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m2MuUaTH_7c/U15YcSBzZmI/AAAAAAAA_i4/HgPbAVAlhI4/s800/20140428_052147.jpg


I'm not sure what I was really after when I took the pictures other than a baseline for a typical start up. A few days a week I have a 2 mile drive to a park and ride. The drive is short enough that in the colder weather I don't enter closed loop before shutting it off. As a result my gas mileage takes a dive.

The first picture doesn't show much other than what my running MPG is. It's on the low side due to those short cold trips. Currently in the summer it's better. Second pic is showing my warm up high idle and that the temperature is in the mid 50's. Third shows a typical warming up timing. I had no idea what it was before the UG but it's good to know what my baseline is. My MAF is on grams/sec but you get the idea. The bottom 4 fields are the short and long trim along with the voltage to the O2 sensors. These numbers are typical for warm up.

I'll look to see if I have some driving screen shots to compare. Hopefully these will be something you can compare to.

[Kryptoroxx]

I am starting to think that mine might be from a similar situation. My commute consists of a 3 mile distance with speeds usually below 35mph. I do this twice a day and that's my usual driving. On the off hand chance I will drive to yucca valley or down the hill giving my engine a chance to run at 70 for at least 30 minutes.

[4x4mike]

Here are a few while driving. The RPMs seem a little high but it's a data point for the tire size/RPM talk above. These were at 61.5 mph and 2450 RPM. I think cruising at 68 I'm around 2400.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W0qX9gdNmuQ/U15YUGjOVpI/AAAAAAAA_i4/Qz2E8_T4hVM/s800/20140427_141242.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8082s45d_Y0/U15YVIXQIDI/AAAAAAAA_i4/OBbbjfKeG38/s800/20140427_141253.jpg

I'm not sure how long I had been driving here but freeway timing is at least 30*, for the most part short term fuel trim is at or near zero and if you look at it just right the sensor voltages add up to around 1.

I'm not sure how your phone program works but the UG took awhile to learn the 4Runner. This is one of the reasons I haven't put it in my wife's car. The OBD ports are the same but the protocol is different so the fields have to be tailored for the particular vehicle. After a few tanks of fuel I got the range and gallons dialed in. One thing that is still off is the horsepower and probably the torque. I haven't cared much to tinker with it but maybe someday.

[CJM]

Im with Sean on this:
-When I went to larger tires abnd wheels (265/75/16 and 16 wheels ") it dropped my overall cruising rpm around 70mph to about 2700 vs the 3000rpm I was getting with 31" tires (31x10.5x15 and 15" wheels). But I suffer around town slightly, truck is sluggish. However I have 4.30 gears and different gearing in my trans vs you guys so it might be similar or not.

My mpg over the winter was HORRIBLE, were talking about 11-12mpg overall. There was alot of idling, the heater core was slightly clogged and the flapper valve was no good as well and cracked. I also was commuting using 4wd. HOWEVER once winter was mostly over and I had fixed all of that I still was getting piss poor mpg. Bought a new upstream sensor cause the old one got melted and now that it was summer when I did it I was getting between 14.5-16mpg.

All my driving is local roads about 50-60mph with some stop and go and then a stretch of about 5 miles of highway at 50-60mph with some lights.

[Kryptoroxx]

I threw half a can of SeaFoam in the tank to clean things up a bit. It's been at least 3 months since I have driven the 4runner anywhere except that 3 mile trip. I will wait for the results. I know I'm going to have to run out to Yucca tomorrow or Saturday for some rusty metal primer so it should burn through.

Also I have found the definitive culprit for my stutters, stalls, and crappy driving when I was talking to battlewagon tonight. He has been having problems too and our base has been known for buying and selling S*it gas. We both filled up the same day and got the same grade. So I'm going to rule out my truck as being faulty for the moment.

In other news my rollbar is ready to paint (well at least mostly). I made the washers for the wheel well and re-welded the feet on with the right amount taken out. Honestly it was a lot easier than I thought it would be and my welding is improved. Instead of looking like a line of spot welds I was able to work the puddle and meld the metal. Still working on a seam but for welding about 5 times total I think I am doing fairly well. I will be adding a tube clamp to the roll bar so it will remain removable in the future.

I am going to do the re-gear before I go to Colorado and it boils down to one thing. Torque. The 5vz has a little to spare where I do not and I will be traveling up and down the mountain grades. The little that 4.30 will give me will be more beneficial than the advantage of a slightly larger tire imo....plus I will have an e-locker to boot. If everything goes well it shouldn't take me more than a day and a half to drop both diffs and perform the modifications.

[Kryptoroxx]

I will have pics tomorrow but I came up with an idea and I had the parts available so I changed into my part time geek clothes and modded my old Samsung Captivate from 2010 to a tablet. It took all day to flash roms and find roms that still had download links that worked but in the end I finally found what I was looking for and was able to load up my app that pairs with the obdii reader.

Why turn it into a tablet? The phone calling features that are unnecessary when there is no sim card are simply not running saving a TON of battery life. After I had all the installing sorted my new gauge pod dropped 3% in 3 hours with wifi enabled. I imagine that battery life will be similar with BT enabled.

I kinda cheaped out on the mounting but I used velcro and the case that my wife had left over from that phone and stuck the case to the dash right over the 4way and defroster button. I will come up with something better later. I imagine that I can use some thin gauge metal and make a bracket that slides between the dash pad and the dash without too much trouble.

Also MPG related I am looking towards the replacement of my fan clutch. Did a bit of research and while my fan clutch has not gone out....my fan turns on and stays on when I crank the engine. It might be sucking a few miles out of my tank. Fan clutch is about 150 so I'm not looking forward to it but less stress on the engine is a good thing. I will report back later on this.

[Kryptoroxx]

Here are the pics I promised. It's right where I can see it easily without it being a distraction and it was quick. I suppose I will see whether I like it or not on the trip tomorrow. I have 9 hours to drive and I will be smelling the grass for a couple of weeks lol. Then I come back and move two blocks over and then roll right over into training and the holidays.

Not sure how closely you guys follow the military but my extension has the general's approval so now it's up to Headquarters of the USMC whether I get to stick around for a chance at promotion or not.

Oh yeah the pics!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/xWuT9c.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exxWuT9cj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/746/VOUzy9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/kqVOUzy9j)

[Kryptoroxx]

So far I have logged a days worth of driving and have an average of 19.2 climbing through the grades. I have the top rack and rocketbox with me so I figure I am doing OK. I will forever be in pursuit of excellence though.

stamped and snail mailed

[Kryptoroxx]

The way back from colorado averaged 19.4 for the duration with a 30mph headwind so I would say I am doing fairly well. I am fairly certain a wideband O2 sensor and piggyback afr tuner will help just because I noticed my fast mileage would get better at WOT rather than continuing to decrease. Trouble is there are only 2 available for r he 3rz. One is manufactured by apexi and the other is urd.

[Kryptoroxx]

Small update* I sprung a small leak and lost about a quart over 2k miles (most of which were on the Colorado trip). Trying to decide whether I actually have a bad seal or whether it's from going to a 5w30 oil. I had been using high mileage oil and then swapped over to the penzoil synthetic to see how it performed. Honestly I believe I saw 0 for actual gains. The oil still looks pretty clean but 500 miles before the next change I will add half a can of the seafoam to keep cleaning the engine. I believe that this will be the last time that I do it.

Next oil change will also include an in depth inspection for oil leaks and items of that nature.

[Kryptoroxx]

Small update* I sprung a small leak and lost about a quart over 2k miles (most of which were on the Colorado trip). Trying to decide whether I actually have a bad seal or whether it's from going to a 5w30 oil. I had been using high mileage oil and then swapped over to the penzoil synthetic to see how it performed. Honestly I believe I saw 0 for actual gains. The oil still looks pretty clean but 500 miles before the next change I will add half a can of the seafoam to keep cleaning the engine. I believe that this will be the last time that I do it.

Next oil change will also include an in depth inspection for oil leaks and items of that nature.Well shit. Looks like I have to continue this thread. Popped a misfire in cyl 1 last night. I'm not even sure when I'm going to be able to shut her down to do the valves (if that's possible).

I fear it's my valves. It's more than intermittent after engine warm up but clears around 2500 rpm with moderate throttle. There is a leak in the exhaust which I'm sure doesn't help bu t at least I don't have to worry about the exhaust manifold. The header looks like it's in good shape.

Troubleshooting order: (open to other suggestions as well)

Seafoam
Oil change
Injector cleaner
Spark plug/wire check
Valve clearance (If it gets warmer)
Compression check
Pull the head and redo the valves.

Shit. Right in the middle of the semester. Lol because yota.



Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[4x4mike]

I don't have much experience with valves but do you think the first half of your list will do anything for them? Any codes?

[Seanz0rz]

I would look into replacing the wires first thing. On mine when the wires are bad, any moisture causes a miss fire. Always clears up once the engine warms up.

[Kryptoroxx]

I don't have much experience with valves but do you think the first half of your list will do anything for them? Any codes?Codes are p0300 and 0301 which are random misfire and then the specific misfire.

The gre at thing about this thread is I was able to look back at previous measurements.

I spoke to LCE today and he recommended that I adjust the valves first. He knew the 3rz well and it's a common problem that people don't adjust them as needed. I've probably gone 45k since I did them last so I imagine that they are out of spec.

If I do need to redo the head it looks like I'm going with one of their valve kits just to do a complete refresh on the head.

I am going to check the wires too but they looked pretty good when I was going over everything from smoking the bambi this summer.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

My wires always looked OK but they would ground out to something. It was extremely frustrating to diagnose.

As for the valve adjustment, seems kinda crazy to me but go for adjusting them. Doesn't take terribly long and is generally otherwise free.

[Kryptoroxx]

My wires always looked OK but they would ground out to something. It was extremely frustrating to diagnose.

As for the valve adjustment, seems kinda crazy to me but go for adjusting them. Doesn't take terribly long and is generally otherwise free.It's cheaper than a new head that's for sure. If my exhaust valves are too tight or intakes it would keep them from closing and allow lost pressure and a misfire.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Kryptoroxx]

Good News?? :indecisiveness:

Well I've loaded the parts cannon. I figure at 277k there are a few things that need replacing which include plugs, wires, coil packs (a known culprit on higher mileage and impossible to diagnose), and I will also be adjusting my valves but the most likely culprit could have been found today as I researched. I didn't even thing about a bad fuel injector. I am going to be testing that tomorrow when it gets warmer. A set of those is 200 but I figure since I haven't done anything except oil changes for the past 3 or 4 years.....the 4runner was feeling like a cheap whore.

I did do Seafoam today and I checked plugs and swapped them just to check the cheapest of the cheap. The idle smoothed out but the #1 plug was messed up. Could be fuel or ignition at this point.

[Kryptoroxx]

Here are the pics. Tthis is after a seafoam treatment but all the cylinders seem to 've doing ok except 1. If valves needed adjusted drastically I think I would see other cylinders with firing issues. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/0e21ccf52154a820d02fbc87a91aec76.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/2e2fa4212d238d5615e1d251660e4efd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/4b9cb6a47e14ebf70f32ac7b36ac826f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/03593ee977354bf0843ed682c07e4fc0.jpg

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[Kryptoroxx]

Here are the pics. Tthis is after a seafoam treatment but all the cylinders seem to 've doing ok except 1. If valves needed adjusted drastically I think I would see other cylinders with firing issues. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/0e21ccf52154a820d02fbc87a91aec76.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/2e2fa4212d238d5615e1d251660e4efd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/4b9cb6a47e14ebf70f32ac7b36ac826f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/03593ee977354bf0843ed682c07e4fc0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G892A using TapatalkThe fuel injectors came back as working correctly so I am hoping that the ignition parts fix the misfire. Its probably time to adjust the valves anyway but I think the misfire will probably go away.

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[Seanz0rz]

Such a pain to track down. I hope you have a garage to work in!

[Kryptoroxx]

Such a pain to track down. I hope you have a garage to work in!


Sadly I haven't had one of those to work in since I left the service.

You should see where my tools are stored. I've got what used to be organized in a two car garage in a 10x10 shed dangerously stacked lol. I'm "hoping" that I can start improving the house perhaps this summer but I think it would have to start with a retaining wall on the house and fixing the driveway so it's not sloping off into city drainage.

[YotaFun]

Coming late into the game on this.
I would lean towards the valve adjustment just by looking at the one soot covered plug.
I haven;t worked on a 2.7l in ages.

It doesn't hurt to do general maintenance also, to help with the carbon build up on the valve and is to do seafoam, or if you can pick up some GM top engine cleaner.
Have been using the GM stuff recently on a lot of higher mileage 3.6l in the GMS and it seems to be helping out alot.

What is Toyota's recommended interval for valve adjustment?

[4x4mike]

When I had an injector go out I got a CEL. The injector bench tested okay but I chalked it up to it being cold. The engine would run fine at start up but misfire once it warmed up. I only replaced the one one faulty injector and not all 6.

[Kryptoroxx]

Coming late into the game on this.
I would lean towards the valve adjustment just by looking at the one soot covered plug.
I haven;t worked on a 2.7l in ages.

It doesn't hurt to do general maintenance also, to help with the carbon build up on the valve and is to do seafoam, or if you can pick up some GM top engine cleaner.
Have been using the GM stuff recently on a lot of higher mileage 3.6l in the GMS and it seems to be helping out alot.

What is Toyota's recommended interval for valve adjustment?

If I recall correctly it is 60k and I did my valves at 233k? At 275k I wasn't expecting to adjust or have such a problem. I figured 300k or close to it I would want to get back in and adjust them.


When I had an injector go out I got a CEL. The injector bench tested okay but I chalked it up to it being cold. The engine would run fine at start up but misfire once it warmed up. I only replaced the one one faulty injector and not all 6.

I checked mine when it was cold as well. I'm going to do my ignition and valves and see where I stand. If I have a bad injector I'll just get the set from LCE. They're bosch and balanced plus the OME injectors are 200 apiece.

But the basement just flooded so I'm not sure really when I'm going to get back to the truck either. Wish me luck.

[Kryptoroxx]

Just a few pics from my adventures. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/fad0f9c9021410ac5c1404b60aa10f13.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/657c7c4b81ef16552e6dc03ac761d83a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/e77948085af20fbafc2741add58d1d75.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/cc876900bbdf942ca595a21d10175c5c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/2124388d5d4385366872a65adbc6aef8.jpg

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[YotaFun]

phew, that is one super dirty throttle body

[Kryptoroxx]

phew, that is one super dirty throttle bodyIt's character..... Lol!

I cleaned It up. I did not scrub too hard though. There is a silicone or some kind of smooth surface under all that gunk.

Got some work done today though. Valve cover is clean and ready for installation.

I do have some valves to replace. Everything was technically within spec but I think I can scoot the ones on the bottom up a size and get away with it. I haven't measured yet. It was getting cold so I went in before I caught a cold.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/a3a6c42be01d9b358a9530d00f5846a0.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180224/7537dd74e86064347c30c27948434c62.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

362
So I need a few shims.....lol

I hit the 1k post mark!! yay me lol.

[Seanz0rz]

362
I hit the 1k post mark!! yay me lol.

Amateur...

[Kryptoroxx]

Amateur...

Bahahahaha

Well I'm getting better at pulling shims. It only took me an hour to do the whole engine. Sadly it didn't make the shims any cheaper. I did go ahead and pull the trigger on the air raid tube as well. My tube has been falling out for the past year or so because it's a little on the short side. I figured I might as well fix that while I've got everything apart.

[Kryptoroxx]

Bahahahaha

Well I'm getting better at pulling shims. It only took me an hour to do the whole engine. Sadly it didn't make the shims any cheaper. I did go ahead and pull the trigger on the air raid tube as well. My tube has been falling out for the past year or so because it's a little on the short side. I figured I might as well fix that while I've got everything apart.It lives!! Got rid of the miss and the valve adjustment gave her some pep in her step. Now to get rid of the holes in the exhaust. Damn salt.

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[Seanz0rz]

Great news! Mine will live tomorrow!

[Kryptoroxx]

Great news! Mine will live tomorrow!

.....and it's dead again. Master and slave cylinders blew out.....f'ing parts whore of a truck.

:heart-borken::dejection::mad-new:

[YotaFun]

.....and it's dead again. Master and slave cylinders blew out.....f'ing parts whore of a truck.

:heart-borken::dejection::mad-new:

As I was told by someone some time recently, we need to stop expecting reliability from these older higher mileage vehicles...
I sympathize though, at least it not an engine issue this time?

[Kryptoroxx]

As I was told by someone some time recently, we need to stop expecting reliability from these older higher mileage vehicles...
I sympathize though, at least it not an engine issue this time?

I agree totally but I also have to remember that while I have spent 700 for parts (including the clutch system replacement) and bled very little during repairs, that a car payment is a LOT more expensive than 700 annually(cross your fingers for me). Plus I am using it as a DD so the reliability is 2 weeks out of the year downtime. That probably still beats any of the big 3 with newer vehicles.

[Seanz0rz]

Welcome to the club. Mine is currently pissing itself in the driveway. Some major coolant leak, I am thinking water pump since the front of the bottom of the engine is wet. It literally never ends...

[4x4mike]

Sucks guys.

John, is it still crazy winter there or will your working conditions be better than last time?

Sean, 3rd gen or Lexus?

[Seanz0rz]

3rd gen. Drove it for a week then parked it for the weekend. Came home Monday to find a huge puddle. I am not pleased.

[Kryptoroxx]

Sucks guys.

John, is it still crazy winter there or will your working conditions be better than last time?

Sean, 3rd gen or Lexus?I was working in the rain this time lol. It is getting better or it was till the clutch fork snapped. It's going into the shop. I just don't have the equipment necessary to fix that.

I was hoping that my woes would be over.

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[Seanz0rz]

Bummer man. I feel your pain, every day there is an even bigger puddle under the 4runner. It is the gift that keeps on giving.

[Kryptoroxx]

Bummer man. I feel your pain, every day there is an even bigger puddle under the 4runner. It is the gift that keeps on giving.I saw the photo. I haven't done my water pump either so I have a sneaking suspicion that it will be coming soon.

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[Kryptoroxx]

Good news! Someone knock on wood for me.

Hopefully none of you were watching something NSFW and now won't have any more kids....

Anyhooo, the shop did a good job on the clutch fork and it feels great. I went through my exhaust shims and found the exhaust tick I had. Unfortunately the exhaust tick was covering up some faint intake ticks.....

Not sure if they're worth going after till it warms up. They are very faint but I know a tick when I hear one!

I've got exhaust parts sitting in the shed. Hopefully the roar will be gone soon and I have a battery cage coming to me since mine loves to shift about all the time.

I have two dash cams to install! A $1500 hit and run was done on my wife's car so next time....I won't be paying for anything.

I should be ordering some bushings for the rear links here in the next couple of weeks. When I talked to the shop they were happy to offer their press up for service lol. I should really do all of the bushings but I don't feel like pulling my arms at the moment and she still holds an alignment.



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[Kryptoroxx]

All is well in Candyland again. The tick is gone, clutch fork is replaced, and once again I am plagued by only a seeping steering system lol.

I am going to be trying to build my exhaust today or at least part of it. I can't exactly replace it all in one day but at least I can get started.

[Seanz0rz]

I purchased some of this stuff:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NVW1LM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The land cruiser guys swear by it. I had a pretty bad leak on the driver's side of the rack. I figured it wasn't much to give it a try before replacing either the seals or the rack itself. So far, it's worked! I haven't driven very much with it in, but it has no longer stained the driveway.

[Kryptoroxx]

Hmmmm I will give it a shot. For now mine isn't leaking with the Lucas but I am keeping an eye on it.

Seems like the new exhaust system recovered a lot of my gas mileage. Time will tell though.

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[Seanz0rz]

So far so good. I just finished up my timing belt service, no leaks while it was sitting over a month and no leaks in the few days of driving it.

[4x4mike]

So Sean, the Lucas kept you from buying a new rack? IIRC it was leaking pretty bad. Great if it works.

[Seanz0rz]

Mike,

I used the below product from ATP. It came highly recommend form the 100 forum on Mud. So far it seems to be working well. No new drips from the torn boots, and I haven't had to add fluid since doing it. If it gives me another year or two out of the rack, great. I don't have a reason to replace it other than the leak, so hopefully this works for the long haul.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NVW1LM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[4x4mike]

That's right. I saw Lucas in John's post so I forgot.

Good to hear it's holding.

[Kryptoroxx]

Next project is ditching the fenders and doing butyl rubber in the wheel wells. I did the inner splash guards but ie noticed that the plastic liners are showing wear.

Another chapter for the monstaliner will be had. It still looks great but the touch up will be nice. Same deal as before with the stock color being used. I'm taking off the hood and the rear hatch this time.

There's some peeling in a few small areas and just some tape area where it didn't clean up nicely. Another gallon will do it some good.

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[Seanz0rz]

I had mine (especially the horizontal surfaces) fade out a bit. I was going to try to wax it, just never have time to do so.

[4x4mike]

Wax the Monsterliner?!?

I would imagine it would be very hard to get it off the surface. What about spraying on a product like 303 protectant?

[Kryptoroxx]

Wax the Monsterliner?!?

I would imagine it would be very hard to get it off the surface. What about spraying on a product like 303 protectant?I'm with Mike on this. Wax doesn't seem like it would work very well.

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