Monstaliner Twist

[Kryptoroxx]

About ready to take the dive on this one. Should be ordering in the next week or so and then it's off to the hobby shop to prep and spray the 4runner. Due to being stationed out in the middle of the desert (right below Mojave preserve) my paint has been destroyed by sand and sun. I have sprayed the RaptorLiner by UPOL before and was fairly pleased but then someone recommended Monstaliner to me. The whole 4runner is going to Monstaliner. Monstaliner is more flexible than Raptor when dry imo and supposedly more UV resistant. At the same time I am steam cleaning the underside of the 4runner and spraying chassis saver on everything that doesn't rotate or heat up. Also at the same time I will be applying the Limited flares to the sides of my 4runner.

The best part about all of this? I found a company that will ship my stock color from Toyota with no binders!!! That means no engine bay, door sills, or any other part that I would usually have to do detail work on. The fenders are getting painted Monstaliner's Killer Beej color as well as the bumpers. To top it all off I will also be tossing in a Satoshi grill at the end. I will be doing a writeup of the entire thing as it comes along. Complete cost I am estimating at $650 or so to include masking materials, sandpaper, paint, monstaliner, chassis paint, and time at the hobby shop. Hopefully I can persuade BattleWagonActual to join in the fun for masking. I've done that once before by myself and it is no fun.

[Seanz0rz]

Price isn't bad. Are you spraying it yourself?

Really curious to see how it looks and holds up. Might want to do the trailer in this, and maybe the lower half of the door panels.

[Kryptoroxx]

I can highly recommend it even before I spray this stuff. I got their samples in the mail and this is some tough junk. Definitely flexible. Samples come on cardstock and you can bend it around and it doesn't crack. I understand your hesitation though. I trust this stuff and I'm nervous about spraying the roof and gettting an even coat down.

If you do decide to go with something other than this monstaliner stuff or raptor stay away from herculiner (fades horribly) duplicolor's stuff, and whatever is sold cheaply. I think Raptor comes in at like 100 a gallon and a little over that for tintable stuff. You can't roll Raptor though. It won't come out right.

Yep I do my own spraying. Best rule of thumb is higher pressure = smoother texture. I will make sure I take some pics with the real camera instead of the phone. I honestly think it will take me at least a day to prep and sand. The spraying will be done in about 30 minutes. The only "bad" part about this stuff is that part of the drying process is a little bit of humidity. I might actually have to mist this stuff after letting it sit for a while. I don't think we've had humidity over 10% in a while. If I can get my neighbor out there to assist I might even film a piece of it.

[Kryptoroxx]

So a few more details. I've been collecting junk for the past couple of months with this in mind so I'm tossing together a budget of sorts for everything I'm going to do in 5 days of no work. The 99 Tall Springs kind of sprung up out of nowhere and I jumped on them.

99 "Talls" $140

Limited Fenders: $185
Limited fenders and door molding $75
3m VHB adhesive tape 15yd $35
Plastic Body molding rivets $5
Monstaliner tintable quart $50
"Killer Beej" pigment $20

Satoshi Grill Mod: $25
TRD Symbol off Ebay $10
Gutter Grill $10

4runner rustproof/paint: $427
3m Green tape 2 rolls x60yd $15
3m masking plastic 12'x400' $24
1a1 Toyota Anthracite 16oz pigment $90
2 Gal Monstaliner kit $258
1 qt Chassis Saver $40
Shultz Gun $60

General Stuff Needed: $35
3m organic filters 6001 $10
3m pre-filters $10
Plastic Gloves $5
1 qt MEK $10

So a little over $812 for total cost which I think is pretty decent considering the amount of work that I am doing. The only item that surprised me was the 1a1 pigment. It was a special order though and I really really don't want to do door sills. Currently the wife is chasing me around with a butcher knife so I will update when I start making orders. I hope to have the fenders drilled but not installed when ready to do the deed. Maybe I will even have the springs in too but we shall see.

[Kryptoroxx]

A couple of updates. I tried to get the paint ordered today but a strange thing happened on the way. I found this in a salvage yard a little while ago and this time I dragged it home to be built. My only small issue is that it is an ABS axle while I do not have an ABS axle. Thinking of doing the chilkat manual lever but it might be easier to come up with the wiring harness too with the button. We will see.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/35/9xjv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/0z9xjvj)

Funding has been brought on by the sale of this item which honestly is too much with the family additions.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/600/ta7s.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/gota7sj)

[Seanz0rz]

If you need a wiring harness, I still make them. Complete stand alone kits. I also have just the axle end if you are more interested in building one yourself.

[Kryptoroxx]

If you need a wiring harness, I still make them. Complete stand alone kits. I also have just the axle end if you are more interested in building one yourself.

I may be interested. I will have the locker and gearset in hand tomorrow and I will make a decision then. I appreciate the offer though. This is something I haven't pulled off before so help/advice is awesome. I figure the hardest part is going to be finding 4.30 gears for the front that are in the case.....or replacing the gears. Never done ifs front drivetrains before either. I know for a fact that I have 4.10 gears front and rear though. I did the research on that.

Tomorrow I will try to convince the wife to let me go sandblast the new springs and the axle housing so that I can paint them with por-15 while they are all disassembled.

[Kryptoroxx]

Another piece of the puzzle came today thanks to BattleWagonActual who scored a locker for me for $250!! It's in good condition with no play and smooth operation. Unknown miles but they have to have less than my 247k lol. Add that to the $100 I paid for the axle tube and a total of $350 for an almost complete axle that I can build with my rear axle is not too bad. Ordering new seals and stuff tonight in celebration lol.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/28/6y3z.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/0s6y3zj)

[Seanz0rz]

Great deal on the locker!

[Kryptoroxx]

Great deal on the locker!

I couldn't agree more! Considering there is a couple of flies in the ointment.

#1 I have an ABS elocker housing....but my truck isn't ABS so I have to fabricate a spacer for the axle shafts to work as they should (but it's possible). I am still looking for pics but unless I find something that says they have to be exact I'm going to find some 3" exhaust piping and cut it to the size I need.
#2 My all assuming butt thought that rear axle kits were $65 bucks for both sides. I was wrong so the wife was unhappy about that.
#3 I had a ton of extra work as the hobby shop won't let me beadblast painted items so currently I am working on the axle to get it ready for POR-15

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/35/dv57.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/0zdv57j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/r81w.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mrr81wj)

The bright side of things is that the axle housing is in great shape. I didn't see anything that is going to be a problem. Just a few knicks on the end of the axle on one side. Very little rust as you can see and none of the studs are stripped either. Now I'm still shopping for a 4.30 front end so that I can just drop my case and install a new one (is that how the 7.5" works?)

Monstaliner is getting a call tomorrow for their piece of the pie. The LED lights from Volt are on their way. I went with the 7.5" bar and the 2 pods. I'm crossing my fingers but I'm going to try and stuff the 6.5" bar behind the satoshi grill if it is remotely possible. I am admittedly a little out of budget on this whole thing but I sold the truck I rebuilt from a wreck so I feel like a good project is in order.

In other slight news I found that I should have an easy time with the fenders. Most of them line up with a feature on the body so making sure that they are exactly in place shouldn't be as hard as previously thought. I found the plastic thingamajigs and I have lots of VHB tape. I also found the darn front bumper pieces pretty close by. I'm getting excited for a lot of this work.

[4x4mike]

Here is my write up: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?8389-4x4mike-s-e-locker-retrofit

I have ABS but understand your upcoming challenge. I'd stop into a parts store and pick their brain. I assume the ABS/non ABS axle shafts are the same lengths but you need to make sure. I had to replace my axle bearings at one time and it required the replacement of some axle seals, ABS ring and spacers. I didn't get to far online or at the dealer but my local CarQuest was on top of it. They had the diagrams and measurements I was after. Since you have the ABS housing perhaps all you need is the ABS ring pressed onto the shaft. The ring will fit in the housing but you need to make sure the entire thing will fit in the housing.

I thought I had some pictures but all I found was a crappy photobucket video. It shows what is at the end of the shaft, behind the backing plate.

http://s36.photobucket.com/user/mezamichael82/media/4Runner%20axle%20bearings/MOV07210.mp4.html

[Kryptoroxx]

Here is my write up: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?8389-4x4mike-s-e-locker-retrofit

I have ABS but understand your upcoming challenge. I'd stop into a parts store and pick their brain. I assume the ABS/non ABS axle shafts are the same lengths but you need to make sure. I had to replace my axle bearings at one time and it required the replacement of some axle seals, ABS ring and spacers. I didn't get to far online or at the dealer but my local CarQuest was on top of it. They had the diagrams and measurements I was after. Since you have the ABS housing perhaps all you need is the ABS ring pressed onto the shaft. The ring will fit in the housing but you need to make sure the entire thing will fit in the housing.

I thought I had some pictures but all I found was a crappy photobucket video. It shows what is at the end of the shaft, behind the backing plate.

http://s36.photobucket.com/user/mezamichael82/media/4Runner%20axle%20bearings/MOV07210.mp4.html

You hit the nail on the head without even trying. I changed my search parameters in google and found a new thread on 4runner.org that confirmed my suspicions that the ring gear was just pressed onto the axle shaft. Now here is the elephant in the room so to speak. Can I just use the ABS axle seals with my Non Abs shaft....and build it up the same as if it were an ABS axle just without the rings on the axle shafts....

I also read through your write-up. I'm kind of tempted to just mod my axle housing as I have access to everything I would need as far as tools. That way I could sell the housing off on my neighbor (who has ABS but no e-locker) or someone else that needs a really clean elocker housing. I did a little more work today and I will be finishing up the coats tomorrow with the POR-15.

Cleaned and prepped:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/829/dlsl.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n1dlslj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/850/f1sq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nmf1sqj)

1st and 2nd coat:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/823/bbm9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mvbbm9j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/541/xfwu.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f1xfwuj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/837/xweh.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n9xwehj)

[Kryptoroxx]

More parts are showing up at my door! I checked on the axle today and that POR-15 is pretty smooth stuff. I'm going to do 2 more coats probably and call it a day. The lights from Volt showed up today and from what I have observed they seem very well made. I won't be able to mount them up for a little while but I am taking leave soon to accomplish all the work I have before me.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/59/ac4f.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/1nac4fj)

Also I finished with the POR-15. The coats after the 1st one are pretty easy to apply and the desert causes it to tack up pretty quickly. I'm thinking of painting the springs fire engine red just to make them look pretty for a couple months.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/827/bocr.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mzbocrj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/577/vlcg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/g1vlcgj)

Also wanted to add for people viewing this that both Volt LED and Magnet Paints (Monstaliner) provided me with a veteran's discount. Volt was a 10% off the top and Magnet was free shipping (on a 28lbs order....a lot). I appreciate both company's gratitude and wanted to give them a thumbs up for it. Enterprises that support or give veterans a discount are growing smaller it seems so I remember and recommend such companies.

[Kryptoroxx]

For starters I'm getting to the E-locker....but it's farther down on the list (and yes Sean I am interested in the pigtail control....just working on funds). I'm beginning to work on the body and since I needed a small project before I start drilling holes in the side of my truck(that's gonna peak my blood pressure for sure) I decided to work on the satoshi mod....with a twist.

Used the Dremel for the slice and dice:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/v6up.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfv6upj)

Did the zip ties a little differently and fitted the mesh:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/z6n5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfz6n5j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/854/kev5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nqkev5j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/827/wtx5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mzwtx5j)

Got the filler in place and sanded it back down to where I wanted it:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/0s12.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nf0s12j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/vazj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ndvazjj)

Then I remembered a trick that I used when I messed with fiberglass in the car audio world. It's called a milkshake and it's 60/40 filler to fiberglass. The great part about it is the self leveling so you can paint it with a brush. Once it self levels it stays that way because the filler dries before the fiberglass holding the glass in place till the resin sets. Caution....if you mess with fiberglass do it in an open area or wear a mask for pete's sake. That stuff will land you on the moon if you breathe it in. This is what it looks like:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/vjj2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mrvjj2j)

And this is what the results are. A reall smooth and sandable (kinda...you have to work at it) area that is nearly ready for paint. Just need to rough it up a bit. Tomorrow I will have final pics along with install.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/829/9lz60.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n19lz60j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/855/90nj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nr90njj)

The only other thing I settled was how I was going to install those led lights. I ended up scoring a set of hella fogs to go along with it for 20 bucks to add to the doggy pile of lights. Since I do not have an aftermarket bumper in the mail I decided on eliminating the middle bar of the valence and installing the lights there. Since there is not enough support for the lights I have a buddy who will help me fab a "light bar" down there and it will help steady the lights on the road. Any reason that's a bad spot?? I know it's good for the fogs but I have never worked with spot or flood beams so advice is very welcome. I took a pic to give you an idea of what will go down.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/62/z8pz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/1qz8pzj)

[Seanz0rz]

Cool. I'll look for the parts tomorrow and be ready to start when I hear from you.

Grill looks good. I want to redo mine some day, it's showing it's age.

[Kryptoroxx]

In the middle of trying to make the grill look perfect with sanding I realized that in about a week I will be painting it with bedliner....so the perfect idea flew out the window lol. I think it came out well though despite the rough cut appearance.


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/854/pyil.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nqpyilj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/854/w52g.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nqw52gj)

Now on to the fender flares..:mad:

[Kryptoroxx]

Cool. I'll look for the parts tomorrow and be ready to start when I hear from you.

Grill looks good. I want to redo mine some day, it's showing it's age.

Thanks. It's probably going to be the beginning of May honestly for the controller. I've got to get the axle ready and receive my front diff in the mail. I'm going to be running around to salvage yards trying to pick up parts for rear disc brakes. I think the benefit outweighs the cost at this point since I have time to build the axle.

[Kryptoroxx]

Parts are starting to fall off the truck in prep for painting. I found out last night that mek is outlawed in California....so that makes my job harder. The window visors were the worst. Thank God I am painting because the adhesive tape has been baked on. Goo Gone wasn't penetrating at all so I ended up just breaking them and scraping a lot of paint.
Picked up the rest of the supplies needed for now which included some 5qt buckets, graduated measuring cups, epoxy, and some stainless steel hardware for the fenders. I was going to try to install all the fenders at once but now I think I will do one a day or so. There's lots of prep and fitting before sticking them on there. Gonna try one tonight and see how it goes

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

Mek equilivent is now industrial coating remover or something like that.

[Kryptoroxx]

I got some tsp as well as the acetone so I should be able to make it all work. I'm starting to get excited over all of this. I put in leave for next week to get uninturrupted time to finish.

For attaching the fenders I am using two bolts through the skin of the vehicle and then Toyota plastic fasteners and 3m tape everywhere else. Not exactly stock but should be enough.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Kryptoroxx]

Man progress is slow on the fenders. Very tedious work marking the holes and double checking them. I am sealing each hole with gray gasket maker before I stick it to the panel. Making sure it's on there good and tight is quite a task. I'm working from the back to the front as the mudflaps in the back are the only parts that do not require any drilling.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/163/1j5a.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/4j1j5aj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/834/h2zf.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n6h2zfj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/rlbz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ndrlbzj)

[Kryptoroxx]

Probably just need to move this over to a build thread because it's gone way beyond just doing the whole Monstaliner thing but in any case. I received my front diff in the mail as well as the pure A1A tint and all the studs and stuff I need to convert the rear axle. For now though the axle has been put on a little bit of a hold till I can roll enough dough together to do the front cv axles and get the rear axle service kits. Might as well get all that over with at one time.

Now on to progress. When I say the rear door was the hardest I really mean it. One side took me 4 hours of nudging, adjusting, and swearing to get straight. Front door was so easy I really did them in about 30 min apiece. Ran out of daylight otherwise I would still be out there.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/p81h.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfp81hj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/835/w4al.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n7w4alj)

Should finish up tomorrow.

[Seanz0rz]

Looks great!

I've often considered adding the Limited flares (not so much the door cladding), but I have a different idea in mind now.

[Kryptoroxx]

So in a moment of chagrin I discovered that the bumper pieces I acquired were for a 99 fat lip....so I am in the middle of adjusting fire. I think I have a cool idea.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Kryptoroxx]

Looks great!

I've often considered adding the Limited flares (not so much the door cladding), but I have a different idea in mind now.

I will tell you this as fair warning. It will spike your blood pressure. However I am mostly pleased with the results minus one of the front fender pieces that is fubar'd. However the driver's side came out nicely and the bumper pieces needed no special treatment. They fit really well with only a small gap. I view them as front spoilers that will help keep my runner on the ground during high speed chases.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/kfh5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n8kfh5j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/vvs3.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/navvs3j)

[Kryptoroxx]

And final results after going through and fudging stuff this way and that. I'm pretty happy with it and with a little paint it'll look really good.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/lv5v.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nflv5vj)

[Kryptoroxx]

Here's a pic of when I picked the truck up in Everett WA to show the real differences.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/263/img00404201009261537.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/7bimg00404201009261537j)

[paddlenbike]

I am a big fan of fender flares on 4Runners. The look reminds me of the FJ80 Landcruisers that just about everyone on the planet thinks is a fabulous looking vehicle. The fender flares, whether they are the Limited-style, oversized SR5 fenders or the black Highlander flares, all make the 4Runner look much more rugged, IMHO.

[Seanz0rz]

I'm not super crazy on the look of the 80, but I do like the look of limited flares on the 4Runners.

For me, I have another option that I've been wanting to do forever, but never had the tool to do it. If everything goes to plan (plan Q at this point...), I might have it this summer, and that will be one of the first mods I do with it.

If not, I am going to look into the Limited flares and then fiberglass the parts that connect to the lower cladding. I'm not a huge fan of that, plus my passenger doors are all smashed up.

[paddlenbike]

If not, I am going to look into the Limited flares and then fiberglass the parts that connect to the lower cladding. I'm not a huge fan of that, plus my passenger doors are all smashed up.

It would probably be easier to find the standard SR5 flares. They look like the Limited flares only they lack the door cladding (like mine).

[Kryptoroxx]

It would probably be easier to find the standard SR5 flares. They look like the Limited flares only they lack the door cladding (like mine).

I was looking for those but they are a little on the rare side. I found the last two lower pieces I needed yesterday and scored some mustang gt rear calipers for cheap.

The lower pieces are going to take some work as people hit them with their feet getting in and out. Should have them done today though.

[Seanz0rz]

I've only ever come across a few in the junkyards, and they are usually very torn up from whatever impact sent the vehicle there.

[4x4mike]

Apparently the limited flares also have self destructing clips from what I've read.

[Seanz0rz]

If I do them, I will probably glue them on. This way, if I hit em hard enough, they will just fall off instead of taking the whole fender with it.

[Kryptoroxx]

Apparently the limited flares also have self destructing clips from what I've read.

They are made out of polyurethane. They are tough but not indestructable. The clips have more strength to them than you would think. I see many limited fairings that are unusable because you can't get them off. The clips are also square so....if you do want to use them the drill hole has to be perfect or you are an absolute artist with a dremel. I ended up using lots of 3m tape and a few bolts to attach everything.

stamped and snail mailed

[paddlenbike]

Clearly you guys aren't familiar with the Harbor Freight drill bit that drills a square hole. It's part of the multi-tool set that also includes a meat thermometer, pregnancy tester and e-bible, all-in-one.

[Seanz0rz]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALiqAXiTQBg

[4x4mike]

Awesome.

I had a girl friend in high school and her Dad was a woodworker. He had a tool that would drill squares but it was more of a round drill inside of a square chisel. The tool was similar to a drill press. As you advanced the drill it would cut within the boundaries that the square chisel was allowing resulting in a square hole.

[Seanz0rz]

Mortiser. They are pretty cool! great way to make square holes, especially for furniture.

For sheet metal, you can use something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121317178094?lpid=82

Requires a hole to be drilled, then, providing you have access to the backside of the sheet, you assemble this through the hole, crank it down (either with a screw or hydraulic ram) and it will punch the perfectly square hole.

Bit expensive, but if you are doing alot of square holes, it's the only way to go. If you need square holes in anything thicker than 16 gauge, you need to start looking at a broaching operation.

[Kryptoroxx]

Mortiser. They are pretty cool! great way to make square holes, especially for furniture.

For sheet metal, you can use something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121317178094?lpid=82

Requires a hole to be drilled, then, providing you have access to the backside of the sheet, you assemble this through the hole, crank it down (either with a screw or hydraulic ram) and it will punch the perfectly square hole.

Bit expensive, but if you are doing alot of square holes, it's the only way to go. If you need square holes in anything thicker than 16 gauge, you need to start looking at a broaching operation.

I was looking into these and for most of the holes you could get access to the backside butthere are some where you do not have access to the backside......and there are other suitable methods for sticking these things on.

I am considering leaving the bottom piece out as I am planning sliders and I'm not shot in the head about drilling that far down on the body.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[Kryptoroxx]

The action starts tomorrow!! I'm on leave and taking stuff in general off the 4runner to make it faster to mask and paint. The first day will be the undercoating though and then we will see how far I get on sanding and masking. Thursday and friday will be monstaliner days with the last day being the spring install. That will finish off this thread and I will be moving on to the whole drivetrain next. I have a few more questions when it comes to that as I don't have a whole lot of experience. I learn one repair/mod at a time and that has served me pretty well.

[Kryptoroxx]

Well not a whole lot to tell honestly but the springs are done and the undercarriage is all clean so now I can see where I need to paint with the chassis saver. I'm going to hit as much of the frame as I can anyway but I wanted to see what kind of shape the undercarriage was in before I started just painting carte blanche. Everything was still drying as dusk was approaching so I waved the white flag for today.

Now I've got a reverse rake because of the 99 v6 springs when I've got a 4 banger lol. I suppose I could lift the rear with a spacer just to make it look a little more normal but I did get lift in the rear as well.

BEFORE:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/kfh5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n8kfh5j)
AFTER:
(https://imageshack.com/i/nh0yz8j)http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/0yz8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nh0yz8j)

[4x4mike]

It's looking real good. I like seeing the dedication and time you're giving your 4Runner.

[Kryptoroxx]

I appreciate it. It's a lot of fun working on her however I think after these projects are finished I should leave her alone for a while. Otherwise my 4runner might not have an owner lol.

I ordered some polyurethane bushings for the sway bars and steering rack. They have been simply demolished by years in the desert. We might not have rust here but rubber gets destroyed by sand and sun.

[Kryptoroxx]

HOLY COW this stuff is hard to get off!!!! I look like a freakin dalmation. This morning I inspected the frame and then proceeded to de-grease/final clean the frame and rinse it once more as there was still dirt in some spots. First time really using Marine Clean (yes that's the name) and man does it live up to it's name. I don't recommend getting it on your skin as it burns. Here are the frame after Marine Clean shots. My frame is in spectacular condition imo.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/e5d3.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfe5d3j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/835/o0v9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n7o0v9j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/m6mz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nem6mzj)

If you have access to a lift I would highly suggest you use it....or if your 4r is high enough for you to maneuver under that should be good enough. Mine isn't lol. This paint is thick and goopy. Perfect for brush application as you can lay it on fairly quickly with a little work. Fills little holes nicely and stays put so you're not getting dripped on all the time.

First Coat: There's a second coat coming but I will do it at the shop where I can lift the runner up a little more.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/u9af.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nau9afj)
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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/lqpi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nelqpij)

There's a lot of the frame that I couldn't really access either because it was on the ground or just because the truck is completely together. My goal is to get the high impact areas that are exposed. Maybe someday I can lift the body off and do an awesome job but it's not going to be this time.

[Kryptoroxx]

If you plan on doing a bedliner exterior inviting friends and having some beer ready for them would be a great idea. My arms are SMOKED. All of the sanding/scuffing is done so tomorrow I just have to check the tape, wipe it down with acetone, tack cloth it, spray the primary color, and then roll the fenders out. Here are some progress pics I took when I was taking a break.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/1of7.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n81of7j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/835/4ynf.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n74ynfj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/mf8z.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/namf8zj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/6b3p.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nd6b3pj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/a99o.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/naa99oj)

[Kryptoroxx]

I would say I have pics tonight.....but I don't. My phone died while I was painting but tomorrow the 4runner comes home amd I will tell my tales of lore from the world of the hobby shop.

stamped and snail mailed

[Kryptoroxx]

I think it is coming out pretty well. I'm letting everything cure before I tape off for the fenders. Here are the action shots and some follow up. I ended up spraying in a rather privaledged area due to high winds tearing through the area. Next up will be the fender prep and rolling. Monstaliner is super easy to spray. The texture can be smoothed out a bit with air pressure. I achieved a fairly smooth texture imo.

This is what it looks like in the can.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/835/4roy.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n74royj)

After color and catalyst.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/87qf.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ne87qfj)

First coat.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/ktzu.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfktzuj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/6c99.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/na6c99j)


And that's where my phone died. This morning after 4 coats.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/834/tb7i.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n6tb7ij)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/jewi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ndjewij)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/0w0x.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/na0w0xj)
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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/n722.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfn722j)

and the driveway for a before/after comparison.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/834/dp5v.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n6dp5vj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/834/tdurd.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n6tdurdj)

[YotaFun]

And final results after going through and fudging stuff this way and that. I'm pretty happy with it and with a little paint it'll look really good.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/lv5v.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nflv5vj)

I applaud you sir, I went the lazy route and I stuck my limited flares on with Black RTV....
Maybe one of these days, If I ever get a new drivers door, I will probably install them the right day, but yours look awesome!


HOLY COW this stuff is hard to get off!!!! I look like a freakin dalmation. This morning I inspected the frame and then proceeded to de-grease/final clean the frame and rinse it once more as there was still dirt in some spots. First time really using Marine Clean (yes that's the name) and man does it live up to it's name. I don't recommend getting it on your skin as it burns. Here are the frame after Marine Clean shots. My frame is in spectacular condition imo.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/lqpi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nelqpij)

Looks Good, I have to go over mine again this summer, Glad to see and Anthracite Metallic 4Runner getting some love!



http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/834/dp5v.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n6dp5vj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/834/tdurd.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n6tdurdj)

Looking Good! I like How it turned out, doesn't look too think but still looks like it can take a good beating!

I love seeing projects like this, Hopefully I can start out myself soon, this is inspiration!

[Seanz0rz]

Texture looks great! I can't wait to see it in person. Might be a good option for my trailer.

[Kryptoroxx]

The texture is pretty rough honestly as far as feel goes. It's definitely grippy but it looks pretty smooth? Not sure if that makes sense but I am DONE!! Here's the eye candy lol. Tips and tricks down at the bottom as well as one disappointing fact.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/lyc4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nhlyc4j)
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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/xpvd.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nhxpvdj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/a5om.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/naa5omj)
and a comparison pic because I just realized there are 5 pages of posts now.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/xfhw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfxfhwj)

Tips and Tricks:
1. Do get a two gallon kit. Our 4runners will take almost two gallons and with beefing up the underside a little or tossing additional on the front you can eat up the two gallons.

2. Spray if possible. I know they preach this is a roll on kit and it is probably the best roll on look out there....spraying is still king. You can see in the pics what the spray looks like and then what the roll on looks like. They end up about the same thickness if you ask me. I sprayed at 85psi to achieve that finish. I rather like it.

3. If you are spraying clean the power mixer attachment in between gallons. I didn't and what was a flawless finish turned into bigger globs every now and then shooting from the gun.

4. A gallon kit goes a long long way. I was able to coat the entire 4runner plus some with a gallon. However subsequent coats will be needed so order accordingly. The stuff is really good but it's not really cheap.

5. Make sure you have a respirator. Even if you are spraying/rolling outside this stuff will still make you loopy while applying it.

(https://imageshack.com/i/n6fxqhj)6. Acetone or MEK....make sure you have at least one qt. I recommend two. If it gets on your clothes....they are f'd....your skin....it takes a few days to come off if you don't get it off with acetone or MEK. Soap does nothing to this stuff.

7. Go ahead and get a quart of Chassis Saver. It's good stuff and while you're coated in bedliner....why not add to the mess?

8. The misting thing is a mystery to me too....but it works. I used a garden hose and nozzle not pointed at the truck so it was like a nice gentle rain. It hardened it up in the desert quite nicely. Tonight I will be misting the fenders so I can drive my beauty tomorrow.

9. Before you do this 3 days before a trail.....the paint takes 7 days to cure. Just FYI.

10. Take your time. The pot life on this stuff is pretty amazing. Roll or spray slowly. Quality over quantity.

11. Use quality tape. I had bleeding when I did the fenders. However that could be from the uneven surface of the monstaliner too.

12. Beer might be required to get up the courage to take a scouring pad to your 4runner. After the fenders and doing this I am sure I will die 5 years sooner.

13. This stuff takes concentration and is very detailed to do a solid job. Don't shortcut anything and you will be happy with the results.

14. If you have any drilling of your panels to do....do it before. This stuff dries hard as nails.

15. If you can bribe a friend to help this is a good thing. Ideas and extra eyes help a lot. BattleWagon was helping me out here and there. Getting Acetone delivered while in a paint booth is a tall order lol. He also gave me the idea to do the door sills. So big thanks to him. Otherwise I would have been SOL for a bit.

16. If you're unsure about the amount give these guys a call. They were so helpful my wife was able to make the order for me since I was on the range every day that week.

The disappointing fact is that Monstaliner does not stick to rubber very well. If you're thinking this would be a good thing you're right if you are talking about tires. I was trying to apply it over those little rubber bits on the limited flares lol. Just use caution and you can still get it done.

[stormtaco]

that looks really really good i dont like the fenders personally but the whole truck looks good

[Kryptoroxx]

Thanks! I am happy with the result but I am kind of surprised at the reactions I get from strangers lol. Most of them start with a single question....is that bedliner? Yep.....then some strange face. Its my truck.

The way I figure it the idea makes more sense than vinyl or maaco. I beat the cost of either pretty well and the finish is way tougher and protective than either. Plus no more waxing, no more chips from rocks, and no more scratches and dents from careless parkers. Done deal.

stamped and snail mailed

[4x4mike]

I applaud all the hard work. I like the fact you've ended up with something you wanted and is suited for your needs. I can't go on a trip without getting scratched and chipped.

What's it look like in places like door jambs? I assume you sprayed with the doors closed and the doors cover those little areas. Is it a reasonable transition? Another question is weight. I know guys always scoff and say bedlining a vehicle adds 100's of pounds to it. Do you think this is the case for you?

[Kryptoroxx]

I applaud all the hard work. I like the fact you've ended up with something you wanted and is suited for your needs. I can't go on a trip without getting scratched and chipped.

What's it look like in places like door jambs? I assume you sprayed with the doors closed and the doors cover those little areas. Is it a reasonable transition? Another question is weight. I know guys always scoff and say bedlining a vehicle adds 100's of pounds to it. Do you think this is the case for you?

Its a fairly reasonable transition. Some got in but not a whole lot. I did intentionally paint the step area to increase durability with muddy boots and such. I will snap a couple of pics so you can see how much got in.

I know the bedliner added weight however it wasn't nearly 100s of pounds. What it did do (uninteded improvement) was quiet the truck down but a good amount. The body panels sound very solid when you knock on them. Rough estimate would be maybe 30lbs of actual added weight. The material has to dry which takes weight away but Monstaliner cures with humidity so there has to be some weight added back in for the chemical curing process.

I will say there is a drawback for a couple of days is the smell. When you get within 6ft or so you can smell the material curing fairly strongly and you can smell it in the cab too. Monstaliner says it takes 7 days to cure fully but I am pretty sure it has cured here in the socal desert already. I mist it every day a couple of times and the curing smell has decreased every day. Also the texture has changed from a grippy texture to a plastic like texture. I imagine this stuff is a poly of some sort. There were no rubber chunks in the mixture. The texture is created from a chemical process with a hardener.

[Kryptoroxx]

Here are the pics where a little bit of the spray got into the door jambs. You could easily hand paint Monstaliner in there if you wished but it would definitely add to the project time. If you get this stuff on anything you don't want it on it's hard to get off wet but impossible to get off dry.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/vy8bg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nevy8bgj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/834/ken9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n6ken9j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/743yi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nf743yij)

[BattleWagonActual]

Being one who's actually seen the results in person, I must say the pics don't do it justice. Everyday I walk outside I see the finished product, since Kryptoroxx is literally my next door neighbor, and everyday it makes me want to fast forward and do mine already. But seeing as I have a newborn and a wife that's telling me my projects are on hold for the moment it might be a little bit before I can do this project.

To those that say this adds so much weight, I don't see how it can. It's two gallons of paint and a little tiny can of catalyst probably no more than 20-30lbs for the whole kit. Like he said it will lose some to the chemicals seeping out during curing, but seeing as how it needs moisture to cure, I'm fairly certain it breaks about even with its canned weight. I think a lot of people are comparing it to some of the other brands, most of whom used rubber chunks in their paint to make the uneven "bed liner" look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

I don't buy the crazy claims of increased weight either. Especially considering the sound deadening qualities. I wonder how many pounds of dynamat these guys have in their truck, how many pounds of particle board that make up their sub boxes, etc, but they complain about a couple of gallons of paint.

As for the watering, the Urethane requires the moisture to cure. I don't think you are adding much in the way of weight to it.

I like the idea of the coating, but I don't think I would want it over the entirety of my truck. I think something like the lower 1/4, basically duplicating the lines of the limited flares and cladding, would be my choice. I do like the two tone, always had a soft spot for two tone paint jobs.

[BattleWagonActual]

I completely understand that doing the entire truck isn't for everyone. But seeing as mine is a solid black with a few paint chips up high, I might as well do everything in one swipe, especially if there's some added benefits. One little addition I plan on doing though is picking up a spray can of their red and taking my time to tape off a TRD on the usual rear panel spot but painted in, rather than decal. It'll be unique and for once I won't feel like I'm the one copying my neighbor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Seanz0rz]

I like that idea. If done right, it will be really cool!

[Kryptoroxx]

I completely understand that doing the entire truck isn't for everyone. But seeing as mine is a solid black with a few paint chips up high, I might as well do everything in one swipe, especially if there's some added benefits. One little addition I plan on doing though is picking up a spray can of their red and taking my time to tape off a TRD on the usual rear panel spot but painted in, rather than decal. It'll be unique and for once I won't feel like I'm the one copying my neighbor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think your idea is really good as well but I did want to add that it might be the only way to do it after monstaliner. I know decals stretch and proper adhesion might be possible....but I seriously doubt it. It's too bumpy. Doing it with a brush and some nice bright enamel paint would definitely be very sharp looking.

[BattleWagonActual]

That's definitely the plan, I have no intention of attempting to put a decal on over the monstaliner. I'm probably going to pick up a decal in order to make a template of sorts, but that would be it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[YotaFun]

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/xpvd.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nhxpvdj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/a5om.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/naa5omj)


Diggin' your choice on color, something different and stands out!


That's definitely the plan, I have no intention of attempting to put a decal on over the monstaliner.

Like the plan, should look good!

[Kryptoroxx]

Diggin' your choice on color, something different and stands out!



Like the plan, should look good!

Hey thanks yota! I will am going to go test out the suspension somewheres around here and take some photos of her.

Hey Battlewagonactual I figure a file folder with packing tape lining the inside of the stencil should hold up pretty good. That should help with the color bleeding and making clean lines on the truck.

stamped and snail mailed