Rear Disc Conversion Question

[Kryptoroxx]

I was talking to a buddy at work about this next mod/idea and he thought I should weld the bracket onto the housing itself. I was going to follow this thread more or less and actually run the parking brake since my truck is a DD.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/106636-rear-disk-brake-conversion-pt-1-a.html

Seems like he had a solid setup but I did not like the idea of washers in a final install. I was going to tack another 1/4" or 3/8" plate beside the 1/4 and grind it down to where it was spaced correctly without the use of washers.

Lots of guys that have trail rigs just use pre-made brackets but they all use brakes designed for a much heavier vehicle whereas mine is almost stock.

So my idea (since I have a non-abs axle) is to weld a 3/8" bracket directly to the housing with gussets to support the force the caliper places on the bracket. This should be safer and more effective. In addition after looking at the original caliper mounts on the Mustang GT this welded bracket should mimic the mount fairly well.

Another thing that I noticed is that from a fat thumb observation the fact that I need to leave room for the nuts to be removed in the future should place the bracket in almost the perfect location to be a shimless bracket.

Like the OP from 4runner.org I went with Mustang GT calipers ($40 out of the salvage yard) and I just scored Brembo 25200 94 Montero Rotors for $39 for the set.....and free shipping. So financially I'm doing fairly well. Here are some pics just to give a reference.

My non-abs axle (which for once will make things easier)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/78db.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/na78dbj)

My mustang GT calipers with Toyota steel brake lines already installed (they were a perfect fit on the banjo fitting)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/hv84.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nehv84j)

Thoughts and/or comments? I will be primarily be working on the Monstaliner still for the rest of the week but I have a spare housing to which I can test fit the bracket to the housing so that when I go to install the calipers I simply line them up and drill the holes.

[Seanz0rz]

I was going to do this with the 4 pot stock front calipers, but figured it was more work than it was worth. Especially with the parking brake solution. It is still something I'd like to develop though, maybe when I have a bit more cash to spend prototyping it.

[Kryptoroxx]

I was going to do this with the 4 pot stock front calipers, but figured it was more work than it was worth. Especially with the parking brake solution. It is still something I'd like to develop though, maybe when I have a bit more cash to spend prototyping it.

I was in the same boat as you till I was sitting in the salvage yard looking at the setup on the mustang. Their parking brake setup should be really easy to mimic. It is a simple Y pull design if I am not mistaken. I probably should have pulled the ebrake cable and just bought the system but I'm sure I can find one if needed. The question is how much tension/play will be necessary to work on our setups. So here are pics that might help the setup take shape.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/k6qc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nak6qcj)

The force is exerted by the cable forwards through the caliper so the cable either has to be run under the axle tube.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/838/8a30.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/na8a30j)

Relative placement (or the best I can do with what I have at the moment). So the cable would run very differently. I think taking the brackets off the back and tacking them on the front would give the ability to figure something out. Parking brake pulleys might help?

I took a few pics of our stock setup just to compare and put everything out there and it's quite different but with a little work I think it would work quite well.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/ln8y.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nhln8yj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/pk5b.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nhpk5bj)

So ours is a push pull but at least the main cable comes down on top of the center of the axle. Now it's just a matter of routing the cable reliably to that location.

[4x4mike]

I've seen a couple of conversions through the years. I built a 14 bolt with a Detroit locker on my last truck and considered doing a disc swap. The big caliper to use was the Cadillac El Dorado as it was appropriately sized and had a mechanical parking brake. I don't have a huge need to discs on the 4Runner but it would be cool. I'm looking forward to see what you come up with. A before and after weight savings would be nice to know as well.

[paddlenbike]

I have seen more third gen rear disc brake conversions lately. I see a popular combination uses Mustang calipers and Montero rotors on a custom bracket.

Here's another iteration, Toyota rotors and calipers on a custom bracket:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/axles-tires-wheels/802841d1363790502-toyota-rear-disc-brake-conversion-brackets-pair-made-usa-100_9131.jpg

People generally struggle to get the pedal modulation to feel right.

[4x4mike]

On the full size Chevy's it was manditory to use a proporitioning valve. Not a huge deal but it did add cost to the project. It did however allow adjustment to make everything operate perfectly.

I know I've seen some caliper ripped off their mounts while wheeling. These are usually aftermarket or DIY setups. In a DD it's one thing that would concern me, especially in an accident. If they ripped off it would be bad news. The picture above might work but looks half the thickness I'd want.

[Seanz0rz]

When I was looking at doing mine, I was considering 3/8" thick for the mounting brackets, and using 3 of the 4 bolts on the axle. That right there made it a bit thicker than I could really cut with what I have on hand. Sending it to get laser or plasma cut made it too expensive.

For me, brakes are the one thing that should never be anything less than 100% perfect.

[4x4mike]

I'm with ya on the 100% part. Even if it was stout if the pedal didn't feel right I'd be pissed. Stuart has a plasma and there are a couple of shops around here that do drop in work. I'd pay their hourly instead of trying to wing it myself.

[Kryptoroxx]

I have seen more third gen rear disc brake conversions lately. I see a popular combination uses Mustang calipers and Montero rotors on a custom bracket.

Here's another iteration, Toyota rotors and calipers on a custom bracket:


People generally struggle to get the pedal modulation to feel right.

I am doing the mustang/montero setup. The way I figure it the OP that I am following did the Tundra brake upgrade first so when he did disc in the rear he ran out of pressure (it's a theory at least) creating too soft of a pedal. I want to do the rear disc setup to see whether I really need the bigger brakes up front. I think converting the rear will probably be all I need (at least for the time being).


When I was looking at doing mine, I was considering 3/8" thick for the mounting brackets, and using 3 of the 4 bolts on the axle. That right there made it a bit thicker than I could really cut with what I have on hand. Sending it to get laser or plasma cut made it too expensive.

For me, brakes are the one thing that should never be anything less than 100% perfect.

Right now I have access to a torch and welder capable of 3/8" so that's what I'm going to try and do. I want to truss it a little as well but I agree that the DIY kits are too fragile. I think a 3/8" with a truss or two should be pretty bulletproof. That's what the mount on the mustang was.

For the parking brake I think I am going to go grab a mustang setup and see if I can route it up and out of the way to simplify the parking brake. It might just be the best answer to a simple problem.

[Seanz0rz]

FWIW, the Tundra brake mod is really only good at preventing fade and the inevitable warping of rotors. I haven't compared piston sizes, but I suspect they are very very close in size.

To avoid locking up the rear brakes, I think a proportioning valve is a requirement. If you feel adventurous , you could go with an LSPV from a later 4Runner.

Oh, and make sure you get the bleed screws at the top. If not, bleeding will drive you up the wall...

[Kryptoroxx]

FWIW, the Tundra brake mod is really only good at preventing fade and the inevitable warping of rotors. I haven't compared piston sizes, but I suspect they are very very close in size.

To avoid locking up the rear brakes, I think a proportioning valve is a requirement. If you feel adventurous , you could go with an LSPV from a later 4Runner.


Oh, and make sure you get the bleed screws at the top. If not, bleeding will drive you up the wall...

That is some very good information. I know that my 4runner has the smallest brakes that were available. I had 15" rims stock and as always I have the 4 banger engine. I've never had serious problems stopping however I do have a bit of brake dive. It would be nice to balance the brakes out better if possible with the rear setup.

[Kryptoroxx]

I am still working on this. Getting parts together is proving to be easier but more detailed than I thought. I am going to have to get some custom brake adapters made unless someone can point me in the direction of a place to buy brake adapters either online or in the socal area. I was recommended the hose shop in indio I believe for the custom parts but if there is a way for me to piece them together I would prefer that.


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/gdvu9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfgdvu9j)http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/gdvu9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nfgdvu9j)

Rotors look good. I was trying to figure out whether I could even make a template without slicing the drum brake out. I don't think there really is. However there is a welder close by that has a plasma setup so the 3/8" is a possibility. I am unsure of what the brackets would cost. If I have a template made up out of wood that will work 100% I think it could be a reasonable price. It's the repeat adjustments that would get expensive imo. Thoughts?

[Kryptoroxx]

ha so I have been reading a lot. Seems like everyone loves the conversion off road but no one has figured out the parking brake or soft pedal. Without getting on too high of a soapbox I think a little bit of forethought needs to go into modding your brake system as you guys said. If it's not perfect I would be pissed!

So here's my ideas on perfecting this mod.

1. Proportioning valve- reason for this is obvious as you need to balance the brakes for prolonged use.

2. Residual valve- many have complained about having a soft pedal and or pumping issues. This should help out at least for pumping.

3. Braided steel lines all the way around. Should just help retain all the pressure possible.

4. Mounting the brakes correctly according to their design- I pulled mine from the junkyard and saw how mine were mounted before attempting this. Also saw how the parking brake was plumbed and took the parking brake system as well. When mounted like they are designed things should work more easily (eg parking brake)

5. Sufficient strength in the mount.- I saw some mounts from ruff stuff that were pretty beefy but they are still a bolt on ordeal and it seems the brakes used in their designs don't fit the 4runner very well. Can't have these things shearing while I am driving. 3/8" plate on the design welded on the axle tube with a truss on the backside should do it.

Ran into an interesting comment on the rear disc conversion though. Someone commented that you couldn't put discs on a semi floating axle without messing up the bearings. Didn't make sense to me at all as some production vehicles don't have a full float rear but yet have disc brakes.

Any thoughts? The pile of parts in my garage is growing quite large to minimize down time but I would rather wait and do it right rather than rush and have to do it again.


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[Kryptoroxx]

Well some progress has been made. I now have all the calipers and what I had been worried about is a non issue. I wasn't sure about the clearance between the axle and the panhard body mount but someone took some pics and everything will clear.

My neighbor scored some 13wl calipers in a salvage yard so I promptly traded my painted abs axle tube for the calipers. So far they seem to be in great shape. I was cleaning/polishing them as I am going to paint them. Completely not necessary but I need something to do while the parts pile grows larger.

Tomorrow I should rebuild them and then tape them off for painting.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/0hur.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mr0hurj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/850/m1um.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nmm1umj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/856/2coi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ns2coij)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/849/87g8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nl87g8j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/853/53ep.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/np53epj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/829/crb4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n1crb4j)

I thought the pistons looked pretty good but there were a few small knicks but nothing that went across the whole piston. Polishing isn't quite done but I stop working when it hits 95 deg outside (0900-1000). Thankfully when I go to install all this stuff the temp should be staying sub 100.

BTW I have never rebuilt calipers before. Any tips or tricks? I looked up a few threads and everything seems pretty straight forward.

[slomatt]

Rebuilding calipers is pretty easy. There is a trick to removing the pistons. You first take off the piston seals, then put a block of wood into the caliper in front of the pistons. Stick the nose of a blow gun into the brake fluid hole on the caliper and give it a shot of compressed air, this will shoot the pistons out of the caliper. The block of wood is there to make sure they don't go flying out and get damaged or lost, watch your fingers.

- Matt

[troyboy162]

take a couple pictures of the rebuild part if your hands arent too dirty please :cool:

[Kryptoroxx]

Will do and thanks for the block of wood tip. I had heard about the compressed air but not that part.

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[Kryptoroxx]

So removing the pistons was a rewarding although violent procedure lol. I couldn't find any wood skinny enough so I used a mouse pad which happened to be laying around. I was able to snap a couple of pics of my attempts at sealing the piston holes since they stubbornly wanted to only come out one or two at a time.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/856/idsa.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nsidsaj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/829/qviz.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n1qvizj)

So I used the 7/64" hose to stuff into the holes at the bottom of the piston wells and then I ended up using rags pretty much soaked in brake fluid to stuff in there as tight as possible to seal it well enough to pop the other pistons. Now if the piston directly in front of the brake fluid input blew I would put that back in and hold it with a c-clamp type vise grip as the hose and rags did not work. Once I had a method to my madness I had all 4 out in less than 10 minutes. The first one took me 30. BS'ing and jaw jacking took up another hour and a half at the hobby shop and it was time to leave lol.

So here's the results from the initial breakdown
I have 8 perfectly good pistons and some of my mech friends agreed. They were dirty as hell but they cleaned up pretty nice. I haven't finished cleaning in the picture.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/843/6qvbc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nf6qvbcj)

The cups were undamaged and not rusted. I have yet to get the inner seals (these need replacing) out but I have a long weekend and after I rebuild these things the only other thing I have to do is paint them.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/829/zk28.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/n1zk28j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/853/5jrv.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/np5jrvj)



On top of that I found out that the hobby shop has a plasma cutter which is great. When the 4runner is down that means I only have to bring the metal stock with me and a few tools of my own but I don't have to get the wife or a buddy to drive me all over the mojave to get the disc mounts done. I should be able to do it all in shop. I might even have access to a mill to help out with the mounts. This has been a good day!

[Kryptoroxx]

Ok so I decided to do my early morning workout and then just smell up the garage until my calipers were done and ready for painting. First thing I did was clean the pistons and check those out.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/840/x110.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ncx110j)

Next was just general cleaning and removal of the seal inside the piston sleeve.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/850/gcpl.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nmgcplj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/2608p.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mr2608pj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/yo9aq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ndyo9aqj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/840/gs6l.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ncgs6lj)

So now everything was clean and I was satisfied with the condition of everything. I did not see the truck these came off of. I swapped BattleWagon for 'em.

Here's the reassembly of the caliper. There's a little pink package of grease that comes with the rebuild kit and it's a great amount just for the caliper.

Not pictured is the installing of the inner seals as it's hard to see them really. They come pre-greased so they just slip in. Just make sure that you don't roll them.
I actually had to re-insert this one since I forgot the grease. The pistons take a decent amount of grease.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/trrre.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/netrrrej)

Next comes the rubber boot. Grease this as well and just slip it on. There are two styles that come with the kit. I used the newer one as it looked beefier and installed easier. It is installed in the background as I forgot to take a picture specifically of this step. This is just a trick I used to get the keeper ring (which was not installed when I was dismantling the calipers) It simply slides over the very back part like shown in the next picture

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/za4f.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mrza4fj)

First piston completed.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/f6yl.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mrf6ylj)

So after I finished both I was looking at speedy's video comparing it to the job I did and noticed how much shinier he got his. I think he took off whatever coating is there from the factory as well as the dirt and stuff. I decided to coat my calipers with zinc phosphate to increase paint adhering to my calipers. They don't look any different if you ask me but I have great hopes for the paint.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/8ruyo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nd8ruyoj)

This is the kit part number that I used for the rebuild. All in all it was a piece of cake. Wait till you see what the Ford Mustang rebuild looks like. It makes this look like finger painting.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/819/pf4e.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/mrpf4ej)

When will the painting be done?? I have no idea. I purchased the G2 paint and supposedly you can't use it above 70F. At my house it isn't dropping below 100F even at night so I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Lots of prep work for the paint, I like it.

Last time I painted calipers.... it was Liberal use of carb cleaner and brake cleaner, let it dry, paint. :hillbill:

[Kryptoroxx]

Yeah I did that too and then I tested it for brake dust and there was still plenty. I also did not have much to do that day.

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[Kryptoroxx]

Wow!! Couldn't believe my luck yesterday. Battle wagon and I hit up a few yards since we both have kids too small for fireworks and we found everything we were looking for....and I have an additional project waiting. I couldn't leave the york 210 sitting there when it was 50% off. 23 bucks and I got to lug that sucker home. Didn't think it was going to be so heavy. It works but I will clean it up and redo the seals and whatever else looks dried out. I might even paint it since I have everything setup. Seal kit is only 25 bucks.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/06/ynavynud.jpg

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[YotaFun]

Nice Find! I need to hit up the junkyard and try to find one myself!

[Kryptoroxx]

Nice Find! I need to hit up the junkyard and try to find one myself!

I used this list and saw a bunch of them here in socal. Took me about 25 vehicles to get a 210. Found two 209s though.

Here's the list. might be the only thing heep sites are good for.

http://www.links4jeeps.com/writeups/york/York_Donors.php

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[YotaFun]

Thanks for the link!!
Already have my buddy searching the local junkyard lists, I've convinced him to do the same project lol!!!

[Seanz0rz]

I have a bracket if anyone needs it. Free to a good home. I will post it up when I get a chance. Mike gave it to me, I went a different route, so I'll pass it on.

[Kryptoroxx]

Now I wish I had a 3.4 lol. Several have done brackets but none have taken pictures and/or kept the a/c. I want my a/c to stay. I think I have a general idea though. The harder part is the pulley since the 210 is a v belt and we use a serpentine. The clutch that is a serpentine is 145 bucks.....and I am not willing to heave that much over for it.

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[4x4mike]

York 210's are very plentiful up here. I've bought 3 from a Volvo part recycler ($25-$40) and they are all in great condition. I've never had the need to rebuild one. If yours pumps air I'd spend your time fabbing a bracket. The bracket Sean has isn't for a 3.4, it's a York bracket for it to bolt into a Volvo. It's useful because it's a thick piece of steel with mounting holes for the 210. It would need to be cut unless you're putting it in a Volvo.

Put the black wire to power and see if the clutch engages. Then plug the discharge port with your thumb while rotating the pulley to see if it pumps air. Clean it up, drain the oil and replace and then do the oil mod(s) and install.

[Seanz0rz]

Should have made that more clear. Lol. I'll post pics this weekend. It would make a good start for a mount. If you're interested krypto, it would be nice to document the process on a 4cyl and do some drawings for others.

[Kryptoroxx]

Should have made that more clear. Lol. I'll post pics this weekend. It would make a good start for a mount. If you're interested krypto, it would be nice to document the process on a 4cyl and do some drawings for others.

Let me look at the pics then lol. I have seen lots of builds on the 3.4 and the brackets look pretty nice!

I am planning a passenger side mount and moving the coil packs to the mount as well. Seems that is what most guys did while keeping the a/c. Every one of those builds I could find did not take a single pic of the mount. When I do it there will be lots of pics....and you might get to see how bad I am at welding lol.

I will take a good pic of what I have in mind tonight if I get the chance.

Also this is in line for after the rear axle and brakes otherwise I'm spreading the wallet too thin.

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[YotaFun]

Does the company that offered the bracket and fan pulley even in business anymore?

[Kryptoroxx]

Does the company that offered the bracket and fan pulley even in business anymore?

Not sure but I found this

http://shop.illusivefabrications.com/engine-driven-compressor-parts/york-210-mounting-bracket/

This is adjustable and for 15 bucks I hardly think it is a huge expense. From what I have seen with the brackets mounted on the 3rz this is a big part of the mounting process.

This is where I saw the best pics for a bracket. I asked him if he had some of just the bracket. The only problem with his build being that he eliminated the belt driven fan and had extra clearance to put another belt outside of the normal setup.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/124530-4runner-build-35s-ifs-4.html

This member over on yotatech has the best idea for getting a v-belt on a serpentine system. I am fairly certain I could make this happen although I gotta say the pulley would kind of sketch me out. Don't those things rotate on a 1 to 1 ratio with the crank?

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/york-oba-3rz-c-261522/

In addition according to pirate 4x4 there are several threads that aren't too kind towards a certain manufacturer but that a 6 rib serpentine belt clutch can be found with several fleet truck part stores. I am currently searching to see if I can find a 4 rib solution but I think I would have to install another idler pulley in order to give my a/c compressor and the york enough wrap to get some grip.

There was also an idea that basically I find a power steering pulley (which is a similar size) and have it machined to fit over the v belt on the york. Then all I have to do is weld it in place.

The details surrounding all of this are certainly daunting but one good thing about having to save money for every project is that you have enough time to work out some kinks before you make mistakes with cash.

[Kryptoroxx]

Read something interesting and it would be pretty awesome if true. With a serpentine belt as long as you have enough ribs there can be extra ribs on the pulley?

Because I found this.

http://www.truckerac.com/tcci-clutch-york-style-tac--020804.html

[4x4mike]

Your first link is similar to what Sean has. What Sean has is that plus more. Cut it up and it's probably all the steel you need for the entire mount.

[Kryptoroxx]

Your first link is similar to what Sean has. What Sean has is that plus more. Cut it up and it's probably all the steel you need for the entire mount.

That sounds like a good deal then. I could pick it up whenever I pick up the harness for the locker.

Does anyone know how much contact a pulley needs on a compressor? I could add the york onto the my current a/c belt and it would look almost stock....kinda.

Finger painting with a cell phone lol. Who would have thought.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/08/e3u3etam.jpg

A little closer so you can see the belts better and why I am asking about how much wrap for the pulleys. I am once again on complete unknown territory lol.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/08/hy3ehujy.jpg

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[Seanz0rz]

I'll look it up when I get home, but I think you want at least 1/4 circumference. Depends of course on load, tension, width of belt, etc. Since more than one is unknown, you'll have to guess.

[4x4mike]

I'm not sure about the 2.7 but I'd think about using your alternator. Use a combo pulley: http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/pulleys.htm

This will allow you to retain all your stock belt configuration and their systems. The combo pulley gives you a v groove to work off of. With a combo pulley, a tension pulley and the York pulley you're in business. Kind of like this (not mine): https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YVqfNBPNIU8/UTd2LJAbkwI/AAAAAAAA1_4/oqJ5wRAO5t0/s800/DSC02576.jpg

This is mine, I've got about 1/2 wrap.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fm_oTm024Cg/UbdKK4RSLaI/AAAAAAAA59E/RDICSYsaClY/s800/DSC06365.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Those installs look great! Unfortunately on the driver side I have my power steering. There might be room for it over there but it would be really tight. I will look into it though. If I could make a custom combo mount for the power steering and the york that might work. I took a pic just for reference but pics don't really help in situations as this. They don't quite capture the full effect (or I don't have the talent to do so) of what space is or isn't there.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/eme2e8u2.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

Krypto, any time you want to pick up the harness, let me know. Give me a day or two heads up, and I'm usually home by 1730.

As for the belt:

Shigleys doesn't have a ton of info on contact area. At least that would apply to a garage mechanic. I haven't checked Machinist handbook (didn't have time at work today, 10 hour days in the shop suck).

What I am seeing though is probably 1/3 the pulley needs to be in good contact with the belt. That's a contact angle of 120 degrees. Less contact angle means more belt tension, shorter bearing life, shorter belt life, etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belt_%28mechanical%29

[Kryptoroxx]

I'm sure this will in no way be accurate but I think this might be the best way to run the belt since I believe the driver side is out of the question. Best part is though I can re-use a tensioner pulley and increase wrap on the two compressors as long as I can somehow mount it in line. Here's my original belt configuration.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/849/u2gs.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nlu2gsj)

Here's what I have as a solution to adding the york and ending up possibly without enough wrap on the pulleys.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/842/t7dgx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/net7dgxj)

At least that's the idea lol. Not sure why it came out like that....but it was a lot bigger when I was editing it.

Also on coming down to get the harness. I will definitely let you know a couple days out at least. I will have to plan it a couple of days out as well. Right now I have no firm date but I will shoot for around the 19th or 20th if that's ok with you. It's the only time that I can get off of work while we are training. Otherwise it will be over by the end of August and I will have much more flexibility as to when I can cruise down the hill.

[Seanz0rz]

Sounds good, I finally got the right connector so I will solder that up when I have some free time.

The belt looks like it will work. Count on using some 0.030", 0.020", or so shim stock to get the pulleys in the correct line. It takes more effort to shim it, but it is easier than getting the bracket dead on. You can also use a standoff too long and grind it down to be perfect. You may want to investigate lowering the idler a tiny bit to get more wrap on the AC pulley. AC belts have a tendency to squeal, especially when exposed to dust.

[4x4mike]

I know this rear disc conversion thread has turned into your OBA thread but I thought I'd add a few more pictures. These pictures are of the 210 I had on my 1990 full size Chevy truck with a 350 and are 10 years old now. I used part of the same style bracket that Sean has. I cut it up except for the side that had the compressor mounting holes. At the time I was living somewhere else than where my tools plus I didn't have welder.

I purchased a Kilby combo pulley
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/Chevy%20York/14.jpg

Here you can see the cut bracket. I elongated the mounting holes in the bracket to allow the compressor to move up and down on it as a way of tensioning the belt.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/Chevy%20York/3.jpg

Again, no welder which meant pieces were bent, holes drilled and bolted together. I was 18 when I put this together and didn't know what I was doing so there was some trial and error. It always worked but in the beginning I'd have to upsize bolts or bracket supports to larger ones due to cracking.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/Chevy%20York/ry3D480.jpg

A York system is very easy as well as forgiving. My current setup on the 4Runner has the pulleys around 1/8" if not a bit more out of plane with no problems. I've never had a belt slip on either setup nor squealing. For you I'd find a place in the engine compartment where the compressor fits. If possible I'd leave all the stock components where they are and work around them. Modify the bracket you arm wrestled Sean for and find a way to bolt it in. Without an idler pulley for the York you free up some space so try to design something along those lines. Once it's bolted in, use a piece of string or rope to measure for a belt then head over to Napa or the like to find the proper belt that works within your bracket. Them plumb it up and you're good to go.

[Kryptoroxx]

I opened the thread up to it when I showed a picture of the york and honestly it seems as though all of you guys run one lol. I am very glad for the tech being discussed on any of my ideas no matter how crazy. When I get the chance I really need to write a tech article or two as I know I am not the only one with a 2.7 but there is very little out there documented.

I honestly think when I do this bit of my build I might remove the radiator and support so I can get a clean shot at the front end of the engine. I have thought about it and decided on the serpentine clutch route for 65 bucks after I do the rebuild kit (from somewhere besides kilby) and if I can move the tensioner to between the compressors I will. If not I will hook it up and see if it runs.

It's time for bed lol. I have 5 miles to run tomorrow with a bunch of guys 10 years younger than me.

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[Kryptoroxx]

So there's good news for now at least. Wife let me get all of the tools I lacked to do the mustang caliper rebuilds. I tried with that I had but I firmly believe in the right tool for the job is very very true. I have been needing an expanded set of snap ring pliers and a pick set anyway.

What I am hesitant about buying(simply because of the amount of use they will get) are the flaring tool and the 3/16 tube bending pliers. They are more than 20 apiece and I do believe that this will be the only time I will use them. It's not like I muck around with brakes all the time. The hobby shop might have them but some of the more specialty tools have been used by those who used more brawn than brains.

I also started sleeving my led lights and re-writing the truck. 0ga is done but I have yet to find another hole in the firewall for the aux box bundle. If I could get a drill to bear than I might just drill another hole. Any suggestions? The goal is to separate the custom wiring from the factory.

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[04 Rocko Taco]

I know a lot of people will hate, but honestly check with Auto Zone, or some other parts outfit out there about tool rental. I know my store here has some flare wrenches as part of thier rental inventory.

Also every single time you say hobby shop, I picture a bunch of dudes sitting around working on model airplanes and shit.

[Kryptoroxx]

I know a lot of people will hate, but honestly check with Auto Zone, or some other parts outfit out there about tool rental. I know my store here has some flare wrenches as part of thier rental inventory.

Also every single time you say hobby shop, I picture a bunch of dudes sitting around working on model airplanes and shit.

Now that I think of it you're right. The military calls some stuff wierd names sometimes. The Auto Hobby Shop is one of the best MWR(morale welfare, and recreation) programs if you ask me. Besides having many many specialty tools they have 12 4 post lifts, 2 2 post lifts, 4 short lifts, mig, tig, oxy acetelene, haz mat disposal, paint booth, diagnostics, smog, tire machies, flywheel/brake resurfacers, and a handful of good mechanics to help if you get stuck. Hell of a better way to spend beer money than getting drunk imo lol.

It's not free but for about 40 bucks a day you have access to all that. I will check into the tool rental idea though. It would help if I could depend on the tool working correctly lol.

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[Kryptoroxx]

Well I suffered a small defeat the other day as I was able to break down the calipers but unable to re-assemble them. The snap ring was just impossible to insert so I got a pair of reman calipers for 100 bucks. Not too shabby but I really was shooting for saving that cash for something else.

Additional pressure is coming from an unexpected vacation in October to Granby CO. Not sure if I can get this all put together, tested, and reliable by that time. I think it's possible but the rear axle will have to go together with no hiccups.

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[Kryptoroxx]

Well here's a blast from the past. The desert heat has been broken and that means it's time to paint calipers lol. I gotta do it quick before it gets too cold. I pulled everything out of the boxes they've been sitting in and hopefully tomorrow they look a little nicer. I don't consider this a necessary mod but it's something I wanted to do.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/JoINxp.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exJoINxpj)

I set it all up tonight so I can get up early at 0530 or so and get the paint done before I lose my window of opportunity. Good news along other fronts as well considering I will be moving to a new(well new to me at least) place later in October. So more room for the expanding family and I am also pretty sure I will get that two car garage as well. That's not for sure but I am fairly certain I am right.

I still have a lot to acquire for this project and I've gotta say it's definitely the most expensive one I have undertaken on the 4runner. I still need the front rotors, pads all around, and the specialty brake parts. All the calipers have been either acquired by luck or by cash. I am also certain I will be paying a pretty penny for the brackets and the welding since I do not trust my skills to pull it off. Hopefully I can finish everything by early next year or that's what I'm shooting for at least.

[Kryptoroxx]

And here's the results. Still waiting to apply the decals on the tundra brakes as this paint is finicky and hides blemishes till you get the caliper in full sunlight. I've done two full coats and two touchups and I am satisfied with how everything came out. In an hour or so I will go back and check everything one final time and then lay the decals down.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/99yfYO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ey99yfYOj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/TDoxPA.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0TDoxPAj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/jRTu75.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idjRTu75j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/0qee4u.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hl0qee4uj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/TPRC93.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p8TPRC93j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/ZtHzU7.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idZtHzU7j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/SQYZis.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eySQYZisj)

[Kryptoroxx]

and the final pic before they get put away till I have the rest of the parts ready.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/PjxdNJ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exPjxdNJj)

[Seanz0rz]

Looks great!!!

[Kryptoroxx]

Man brakes aren't cheap!! I had to shop around for some deals but I'm down to needing the custom parts honestly. I have a solid design for the bracket however I'm going to rough one out of some 1/4" that I have leftover. Going to see battlewagon today since he has a spare axle tube now for the spacing for the axle holes. I just want to verify everything twice before I start cutting and drilling. Adjusting a little is easier than scrapping it and starting over.

Parts/price list so far:

Adjustable brake balancer $40
25' 3/16" hard brake line $25
Stainless steel brake lines $40
2lbs residual valve $30
98 mustang gt calipers Napa premium $100
Brake pads $30
03 tundra calipers $100
Caliper rebuild kit $20
98 montero rotors $30
Tundra rotors/pads $118
Mustang parking brake cable $30
Flaring tool $15
Tubing bender $20
Tubing cutter $15

Still needed:
Custom rear brake lines
Tundra hard lines
Rear disc bracket


Went with Callahan rotors and pads since they were economical and have a decent reputation. I'm getting excited that this is getting closer. It's getting closer to time for me to do the brakes in the runner anyway so the clock is ticking.



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[4x4mike]

It does all add up. All my projects seems like cheap, quick and easy projects. In the end they end up costing more than I thought they would and always take longer.

[Kryptoroxx]

It does all add up. All my projects seems like cheap, quick and easy projects. In the end they end up costing more than I thought they would and always take longer.
Definitely. My rear shelf is taking forever but it has been pretty cheap so far. Just a lot of labor. I have to take some leave here soon so I will probably finish it then.

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