Adjusting clutch pedal after slave/master cylinder replacement

[Bob98SR5]

New tech, nothing earth shattering. Will go into 4runners.org too.

Ok this is something I neglected to do after installing these parts 9 months ago with Lance. So I had a mechanic take a look and he said a bunch of nonsense, so I finally decided to dive into my FSM (which is what I should've done in the first place and done it myself) and fixed the problem.

First thing you need to do is to determine how far off your pedal height is off and why. I have the specs in my FSM, but really, just make the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal. So couple things you need to remove is the cotter pin off the big brass pin (whatever its called, i dont know) off the clutch pedal. Remember the direction and orientation of the big brass pin. Tip: shake the pedal, big brass pin comes off easy. After removing BBP, shake the C-shaped silver push rod assembly off the pedal.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/14023207059_bc559f6cd7_o.jpg

Next remove the harness off the clutch cancel switch. Press on the one clip and gently remove upwards. Nezt, I loosened the nuts holding the pushrod nut (12mm) and the clutch cancel threaded nut (14mm).

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5471/14186726516_ac191ab0a2.jpg

So in my case, the pedal was too low to the floor causing me to put alot of pressure on the clutch. It felt bad and shifts were hard to engage. So after removing and loosening the above parts, I pushed the pedal up to the right height. Total eyeballing. Then I turned the push rod pin and threaded it so that the c-part of the push rod assembly actually lengthened so the holes aligned. Once done, I inserted the brass pin to hold everything at that position. I then rotated the clutch cancel bolt out as the clutch cancel pin was now compressed and touching the (now higher) clutch pedal. After adjusting that, I tightened down the pushrod nut and the clutch cancel nut, but not all the way.

I jumped and started to determine how it felt. It felt like the way it was before the swap. So all was good and I tightened down the nuts for good, plugged the harness back in, and reinserted the BBP and the cotter. All done. 30 minutes - 45 mins tops.

[slomatt]

Great post! Coincidentally I was planning on adjusting my clutch tomorrow. Did you notice any change in the amount of pressure required to push in the clutch?

[Bob98SR5]

Great post! Coincidentally I was planning on adjusting my clutch tomorrow. Did you notice any change in the amount of pressure required to push in the clutch?

Matt,

This was one of the things I should've done after swapping in a new clutch and slave cylinder as written below:

http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10499-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Slave-Cylinder-replacement-and-bleeding&highlight=master+cylinder

This adjustment was related to and after an install shown above, so not related to adjustments to the clutch (are you talking about replacing the clutch?). After adjusting the length of the push rod and clutch cancel switch, the pressure was much, much more smoother and less of a chore to press the clutch pedal. Previous to the fix today, I think it was so far in and low that I was really pushing the action/fluid to the limits and that's why it felt harder to push the clutch in and shift into gear. Everything is just peachy now. Good luck on your pedal adjustment tomorrow.

[Kryptoroxx]

It really is that simple isn't it. I am completely in your debt. I replaced my clutch and ever since I have not been able to engage my cruise without pulling back on the clutch pedal with my foot. When I looked down under there I saw that the nut was welded and figured that it was non-adjustable. Where's the face palm smile?

[Bob98SR5]

It really is that simple isn't it. I am completely in your debt. I replaced my clutch and ever since I have not been able to engage my cruise without pulling back on the clutch pedal with my foot. When I looked down under there I saw that the nut was welded and figured that it was non-adjustable. Where's the face palm smile?

Between the FSM pics/diagram and actually looking at it, I spent about 10 mins back and forth just to understand what nuts, parts, etc needed to be unbolted or loosened. Good luck on your adjustment(s).

[slomatt]

The instructions in the manual on how to measure the pedal height are very vague and just specify that the height from the floor panel should be 6.692–7.086" (6.574–6.986" if measuring from the asphalt sheet). Assuming that you measure from the top of the pedal straight down to the floor then mine is in spec, which puts it slightly forward of the brake pedal.

I loosened the lock nut on the rod and experimented with screwing the bracket out (lengthening the rod). This had the effect of moving the clutch engagement point higher in the pedal travel (away from the floor). I ended up making 4 complete turns which puts the engagement point roughly in the middle of the pedal travel.

Pedal weight is not noticeably changed, but I now don't have to push the pedal "through the floor" to engage the clutch, though interestingly there is no way to adjust the bottom stop (clutch safety switch) so it is still possible to push the pedal down that far. Also interesting is that I've always had an issue where the pedal does not actually depress the clutch safety switch so you can't start the car, years ago I put a rubber bumper on the pedal to add 1/4" of length so it compresses the button. Perhaps something is bent, or, am I missing some adjustment to the lower switch?

- Matt