Inspecting u-joints

[slomatt]

My 4Runner has had a bit of a vibration from 50-60 mph for a while, and today I decided to pull the rear driveshaft and check the u-joints since this seems to be a common issue. The joints in the double-cardon are fine and there is no play in the rear (diff side) joint, but I did notice that the rear joint does "stick" and try to return to center after being moved.

This is a bit hard to explain, but if you pivot the joint on the axis that goes through the ears on the driveshaft it moves about 15 degrees and then encounters some resistance. If you let go at this point it returns to center, if you push past the resistance it moves as you would expect. If you pivot the point around the axis on the diff flange it feels like butter and is smooth with no stickiness.

Ideally the diff-side u-joint should be in a straight line with the pinion, so it would make sense that the needle bearings could wear in so that they return to center within a small range of angles. So...

Question 1: Could this stickyness in the join cause a vibration? Is it worth replacing? The joint is tight, it just doesn't move consistently through the entire range of motion.

Question 2: It looks like a u-joint from Toyota is $50, which is pretty high. Any recommendations for other quality alternatives? One nice feature of the stock joint is the center grease zerk.

Here are some options I've found:

Toyota 04371-60070 $52 @ camelbacktoyota.com

Spicer 5-1510X U-Joint Kit $32 @ Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-51510X-5-1510X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B000CKR6RS/ref=au_pf_ss_1

NPJ P387 $16 @ Napa
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/U-Joint-Rear-Driveshaft-at-Rear-Axle/_/R-NPJP387_0325343180

The Napa joint has a center zerk, but the quality is questionable. The Spicer part should be good, but it appears that the zerk is on one of the caps which is not ideal since it is exposed and could be sheared off. Best bet is probably to fork over the $52 for the Toyota part and not worry about it for another 100k miles.


I couldn't find a good set of part numbers for u-joints for the 3rd gen 4Runner, so I'm hoping this thread will be a useful resource for others in the future.

- Matt

[Seanz0rz]

This is where I think some of my vibration is coming from on my truck as well. I haven't had the time to check the d-shaft, but will when I pull the rear axle for the diff seal. I know I have never greased the dshaft in the 65k I've owned the truck, and I doubt it was done before then. I will likely replace the ujoints just for the sake of them being done.

[troyboy162]

only the ujoint at the pumpkin is replaceable. The cardon joint doesnt have any ujoints that will fit is what I have heard. I always thought I would try a creeper joint if mine wore out

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/creeper-joint-drive-shaft-u-joints.html

[Kryptoroxx]

Not to jack a thread but is there a sound that is associated with a bad u-joint? When I'm coasting in gear (stick) I get a clicking noise kind of like the sound you hear whenever a drawbridge drops in the movies....except without the loud slam at the end. It's been around for an oil change or two but I've been under to inspect and there doesn't seem to be any looseness or excessive play. I've got 247k or so on the driveshaft so if it were in need of repair I wouldn't be too surprised. Seems like a lot of usually unquestionable parts need replacement as I inspect them.

[Seanz0rz]

I get a vibe when I lift off the throttle. Basically shifting load from one side to the other. Maybe this weekend I'll get to work on it.

[slomatt]

Not to jack a thread but is there a sound that is associated with a bad u-joint? When I'm coasting in gear (stick) I get a clicking noise kind of like the sound you hear whenever a drawbridge drops in the movies....except without the loud slam at the end. It's been around for an oil change or two but I've been under to inspect and there doesn't seem to be any looseness or excessive play. I've got 247k or so on the driveshaft so if it were in need of repair I wouldn't be too surprised. Seems like a lot of usually unquestionable parts need replacement as I inspect them.

Does the clicking sound change with the speed you drive or is it constant? You might want to check out the CV joints on your front axle shafts, and jack up the rear diff so you can spin the tires and see if it is coming from inside the differential.

- Matt

[Kryptoroxx]

It does change with speed indeed. Happens more at higher speed although it is most noticeable at low speeds. If it is differential play it might be a great thing that I am installing an elocker.

stamped and snail mailed

[slomatt]

After the battle replacing the front O2 sensor I figured that replacing the u-joint would be easy, but it wasn't. The bearing caps were pretty much seized in place, and I ended up breaking my bench vise trying to press them out. Not happy about that. I'm going to drop the driveshaft off at a shop that has a hydraulic press and let them deal with the fun.

On the other hand the new lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends went in with minimal hassle. The inner tie rods move smoothly and have no play so I decided not to replace them.

- Matt