Factory paint matching

[4x4mike]

So I mucked up part of my bumper on a trip recently and have been slowly trying to get it back to a before state.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v8hhiI0VGiQ/U9Wjcc8AB1I/AAAAAAAA-64/NGAfeYZSgWM/w958-h636-no/DSC_4866.JPG

I ordered a replacement factory 'end cap' in unpainted form. I couldn't find any non-chrome versions locally so I decided to buy new. I figured this was a good way to go anyway because the part would be straight and I wouldn't have to strip any paint.

I found paintscratch.com and ordered up a kit that had pre mixed factory paint in a can. For $43 I got the material I needed which is cheaper than having it sprayed at a body shop.

I need to do a little more research but thought I'd ask some questions in case anyone has some painting experience. My color is a metallic and while it's not likely for me to match the metallic portion I plan to get close. I've sprayed two light base coats and while the metallic looks okay the surface texture is a little rough. Not so much the metallic part, at least I think, but more of the paint texture. It seems I've never had this experience with say an off the shelf Rustoleum metallic. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to be and the clear is the shiny part I'm waiting for. 95% of my painting on the 4Runner is semi gloss black from a can and looks don't matter.

The website mentions wet sanding which I've done and am fine with but the instructions seem to be for paint that may not be metallic. If I wet sand am I just going to wipe out the sparkle? I was trying to get smooth coverage along with consistent flake but I'm afraid it will muck it up. The paint finish also seems to be very matte. I purchased the clear coat for the custom paint and plan to spray that once I feel the color is correct. I'm hoping the clear coat will shine it up enough to match the factory finish.

Seeing that the part is hanging in my warm/hot attic with a couple light coats, how long should I wait until I wet sand? Ken said he waited 5 days when he sprayed his wheels. Any precautions for wet sanding a metallic paint? I only bought one can of paint so I can't sand, paint, sand too many times before running out. I'm hoping on a light sand then happy ending.

[Kryptoroxx]

Wet sanding will muck it up. If you have to sand to correct drip you're going to have to spray again. If it's orange peel then spray it with clear. You can wetsand clearcoat.

The clearcoat should also correct the matte look to a nice shine.


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[4x4mike]

Thanks. I haven't called the company yet but the finish on the piece does look like the wet sanding will effect the metallic. I don't have any drip just somewhat of a not smooth finish. I'll take a close look tonight under some bright light and make the decision. I might also do a small test area on the bottom to see what it does.

I do imagine the clear will add the shine. I just don't have much experience with clear. Well not much of a positive experience. The clear did come with 2 different nozzles so maybe that will help.

[Seanz0rz]

In the past, I've wet sanded metallics but only in prep for a final coat before clear. I'd bury it in quite a bit of clear if you can, then wet sand then one more coat of clear, then buff it all out, if you're after a shiney bumper.

[paddlenbike]

In the past, I've wet sanded metallics but only in prep for a final coat before clear. I'd bury it in quite a bit of clear if you can, then wet sand then one more coat of clear, then buff it all out, if you're after a shiney bumper.

My experience with the wheels was wet-sanding did make the surface look matte and it took away the brilliance of the metallic sparkle. But I think the idea is to use that wet sanding to get all of your previous layers of paint smooth, then you follow up with one final coat of base/metallic that you don't sand. Then you end up with a surface that is both smooth and still retains the shine. The clear coat will obviously accentuate that.

But throw everything I just said out the window if the instructions say otherwise. Different products have different requirements, and the experience I just described was with Duplicolor primer (a step you didn't need to do), Duplicolor Wheel coating, then Duplicolor clear coat.

[CJM]

I just did a fender using spraypaint, its not prefert but VERY close. What I did was since I have a metallic color I sprayed the metallic and then cleared it (again spraypaint) about 6x. My only complaint was the spray method I used created a slightly off look I guess you could call it-you can see it was spraypaint if you look closely.

Anyways I cleared it then I started wet sanding a week later to make sure the stupid spraypaint was dry. Started at 600, then moved to 800, then 1000 and finally 2000. Then I buffed it using heavy and then rubbing compounds and then finally waxed it.

For spraypaint its a damn close match and only off slightly in the shade of the color. Conversely the patch I had to do to my rocker panel in front of the rear tire turned out better. It was a hole I had to cut out of rust about 3x3" and the area already has a rough finish. I didnt go nearly as nuts doing it as the fender b/c you dont see it really as much (sure doesnt stand out like a fender). All that got was a coat of red primer, sanded with 800 then 1000, paint, sanded down again and then clear and then sanded and buffed. My friend honestly thought I paid to have it done.

Prep and application is key in painting, getting it to match is tough. Also using a real spray gun works better than a can of course BUT you gotta have a dryer, then another dryer at the gun and the hose better be new cause if it has anything it it you will be sorry.

Oh one more thing, if your gonna wetsand Im not sure how others do it. But an old school painter told me he used warm water and a bucket of water and dawn dish soap and ill be damned it worked great for me.

[4x4mike]

Thanks for the input guys. I plan to take a look at it tomorrow and go from there. I'm thinking a wet sand, final paint then let it sit in the warm dry attic for the weekend. Next week I'll try the clear. CJM, I know what you mean from what you described. I've painted a few bicycles with cans and HPLV guns and have differing experiences. I've got driers/filters but painting is such a PITA.

I only need this to be as shiny/good as the rest of the bumper. Lucky for me it's dark, low to the ground and has many different angles.

[CJM]

Forgot to add, that part of the bumper is plastic right? Id use adhesion promoter as well clean everything with prepall or mineral spirits.

[Kryptoroxx]

Nope...I definitely put a dent in mine before I did the monstaliner. It's metal.

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[CJM]

Ah metal makes it damn easier to paint then. Plastic sucks b/c paint dont wanna adhere or flex unless you use the right paint.

[4x4mike]

Yesterday I had a little time so I got some warm water and dish soap going in a container. All I had on hand was 1500 wet sand paper so I stuck it in and let it soak. The piece had been hanging in the attic where it's warm but there is no light. My attic is semi finished with a floor and pull down ladder access so it's a great place to put stuff where it won't get in my way or become victim to small children.

Here is the piece prior to wet sanding.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wc0xhufzsUY/U_l62LK8ZGI/AAAAAAAA_i4/DjQOw_UyotM/s800/20140822_103554.jpg

In direct sunlight I could tell it was the paint trying to adhere to where I had sanded the piece prior to painting. I gave it a quick buff with 600 and wiped it down but I guess this was the aftermath.

The wet sanding was great. No mishaps and the metallic stayed put. I lost minimal paint and nothing down to primer. I left while the get'n was good and hosed it off and left it in the sun. After 30 minutes I sprayed the remainder of the paint I had and hung it back up.

Today I sprayed the clear and right away I noticed a lot or orange peel in the clear finish. The can states the product flashes at 2-3 minutes so I used that as a guide. I ended up doing about 4 coats, not the entire can, and it looks pretty good. The orange peel is hard to capture but it doesn't look bad at all. Everything is very consistent.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zU0H-TwLvek/U_l7oIvAFqI/AAAAAAAA_i4/h4Of5zBteFo/s800/20140823_214112.jpg

Like Marc did, I think I'll let this chill in the heat and then maybe the sun for a bit then give it a good rub down. The paintscratch website had more info on the clear than my paint. I haven't held the piece next to my bumper yet but it looks good. If anything it will look better because it's fresh and shiny.

[CJM]

Sadly your pics aint working Mike :(
Sounds like you did a good job.

[Kryptoroxx]

I will wait for pics but if it doesn't match perfectly a little bit of time with road/trail grit and you won't be able to tell the difference ;)

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[4x4mike]

Hopefully the pictures work now. I had to get a Google+ account so my Youtube account stays active. I had it pretty locked down which locked the pictures.

[Seanz0rz]

Looks good, it is so hard to tell how paint looks from pictures. Since your truck is a bit faded, the orange peel shouldn't be a problem. I always take some polishing compound on a paper towel and rub it down real quick, followed up by a plain, dry paper towel. It is abrasive enough just to polish it out. Don't go crazy with it though. Goal for me is usually the 18" approach. As long as it looks good at 18", i'm happy.

[Kryptoroxx]

Hey that does look good!! I'm with Sean on the 18" rule.

[CJM]

Looks great Mike! I'm with you guys on the 18" rule too, my truck was newer and nicer I'd care more but it's old and beat up lol

[4x4mike]

I'm trying to upload a few pictures right now and it's taking forever. In the meantime I'm get'n a ton of info and a few laughs from this guy. He's saying his Caprice has orange peel in the texture of the steel.

I'm also digging his jacket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPc_KDU_ECM

[4x4mike]

At least the orange peel is consistent.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VYc1zj-TWto/U_uP5Oax5wI/AAAAAAAA_m0/6ls4lqfZ-JE/s800/20140825_120652.jpg

I'm going to wet sand it tomorrow and see how it looks. If it's acceptible I'll hit it with the rubbing compound. I'm thinking that if I have to wet sand a ton I may respray some clear but we'll see. I have a feeling it will look good at 18" and I'm happy with the metallic and the coverage.

[4x4mike]

Well crap. Let me preface this by saying I'm not a super patient guy. For some things I am but for the most part I don't sit still or like waiting. As such, painting is not one of my favorite things to do. My house, furniture, etc. Spray paint on skid plates and sliders is more of my speed.

I was really patient with this bumper piece. I actually read instructions, prepped and let it sit when need be. Part of this was because I was too busy to work on it but I took it on as a project and wanted it to come out nice. It dried hung in my attic and was looking really good. I wet sanded a bunch and it was smooth and consistent.

After wet sanding last week I was drying it off and I noticed a flake of paint on the towel. I freaked out at first but though maybe it was from one of the threaded holes as it was the same size. I found nothing, oh well. I decided to hit the painted surface with rubbing compound as it was the next step and found where the chip came from in the process. It was right on the corner and bend, basically at the exact spot you look at when you look at the piece. Damn. I have the factory touch up paint so I decided to take my time, build it back up and sand it down since I was at that stage. I'd make it look as good as I could since I was already neck deep into this thing. In the end I was impressed as it turned out real nice.

That chip repair took about 3 hours over 3 days. Like I said I took my time and made sure it was ready before the next step. I ended up doing the entire piece twice with rubbing compound and I was really happy with how smooth it was coming out. It dulled up but the wet sanding scratches were out and things were still smooth.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9Cll7s4Wdec/U_9vx0KrmgI/AAAAAAAA_w4/-wEQuARhQkQ/s800/20140826_215327.jpg

The next step was polishing but it had to sit for awhile again. So i put it back in the attic since my garage has about 8 projects in it along with clumsy hands. I placed the piece on a cardboard box with a terry cloth towel on the top. I was in the middle of packing for a camping trip so I was pulling things down from the the attic and I didn't want to drop something on it or scuff it.

Fast forward four more days and I got a hair up my butt to install the piece. The directions stated 21 days before polish and I figured I'd test fit in the meantime and that polishing would be easier to do installed. I go upstairs, pull the piece down like it was a ticking time bomb and brought it to the work bench. I gave it a slight upward movement to knock the towel off as my hands were busy and it didn't move. I proceeded to pull it off only to see that the towel was stuck to the piece embedded in the paint. S of a B!

I pulled the towel off like a band aid stuck to a scab all the while cursing like a sailor in my head. On the outside I may have been shedding a tear. Now what? &^$#*(@$$^@^$*(@(*&&^!

Since I figured it was a goner I took my anger out with some more wet sanding. I may have sanded it a bit much but I didn't care. Two spots were kind of bad, one larger than the other. On the bend where the towel draped down was much lighter but felt pitted. )(@#%@&$$&@*^%!

This is after some wet sanding anger management and some non-sh*ts given.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WpOVGgWc8iA/VAfX12NLsDI/AAAAAAAA__g/uDwHIdC-C-U/s800/20140903_173724.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5BQZfnoPr2U/VAfYGfZxToI/AAAAAAAA__o/SuE1h8YVI6w/s800/20140903_173732.jpg

Waiting the remainder of the 21 days was out the door. I had some liquid polish so I gave it a good rub down while telling it who was boss. It shined up pretty nice but the towel damage (really towel damage!?! This whole thing started with rock damage) was still visible. The polish kind of embedded itself in the 'new surface' and shows as well.

I have no idea why the old piece looks so much shorter. I didn't notice until I viewed this picture. Everything mounted fine so it must be the angle.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oiHEoAkbDLg/VAfYnNP54cI/AAAAAAABAAk/rEQOhzeuF8U/s800/20140903_192100.jpg

BALLS!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0ZD4lImQPw8/VAfZrAN_OrI/AAAAAAABAAY/tP6KdRIE5nk/s800/20140903_194532.jpg

So it's on and I'm done. Kind of pissed especially since I was telling myself I was going to turn a new leaf on patience, HA! Who was I fooling? I guess it matches the rest of the truck since it's old and not perfect anyway. I've got some money into it and was striving for almost perfect but now it's at the 18", like mentioned above, plus a shot of Patron with a beer chaser. I could have gotten this same ending, after this much time, at a U-Pull or overpriced on eBay. Live and learn.

[Seanz0rz]

Looks good, besides the flaw. Get some touch up paint with the little brush like nail polish and touch it up. Won't be perfect but shouldn't be noticible.

[CJM]

That sucks. Lesson learned tho-I wouldnt have covered it. I left mine to dry for a solid 2 weeks in my basement.

[4x4mike]

I figured it would have been fine considering I had already used rubbing compound. It went on fine and buffed out with no visible damage or removal of the clear coat or paint. Ironically I colored it so it would get damaged.

[Kryptoroxx]

I think it looks pretty good man even with the blemish. You have more guts than me. I had fading paint all over and I knew I wouldn't be able to make it look good again without taking it to a shop. This is one of the reasons I used the Monstaliner. Flat is always easier to accomplish a nice looking coat with vs. gloss. So with that being said well done.