Hybrid Roof Rack (sorry 4x4mike)

[Kryptoroxx]

First of all I have been fighting with a design for quite some time although lighting didn't strike my bowling ball brain of mine till 4x4mike's build thread caught my attention.

Second of all I didn't want to thread jack but I could always use some input. I have someone to assist me with the welding which should help tremendously. Here is my wish list for my roof rack

1. Full roof length- I don't have a sunroof to worry about so this does make it easier in the design area.
2. Weight- I wouldn't put more than 400lbs up top anyway but I want to save the 400lbs for gear....not the rack.
3. Hybrid design- I have an 8ft Yakima Rocketbox that is particularly awesome for road tripping since it helps with the aerodynamics and protects stuff from the elements without a tarp crackling in the wind.
4. Light mounts- This is part of the whole camping out of the truck deal. Ideally I would like the ability to mount 4 corner lights (probably pods) to illuminate for trail and campsite.....and maybe just maybe I can talk the wife into a nice 20" light bar up front later.
5. Low Profile- Again without the lighting bolt I wasn't sure how I was going to do this while still being able to mount the RocketBox but mike's basket is the inspiration for this build without a doubt. Is it wrong that I feel like the design engineer from one of the big 3 for copying a design?

So far this is what I have in mind. Granted it's just a frame but it will be developing. The rack is 7.5' long and 45" wide with a roof clearance of .5" which should clear the roof curve but just barely. Middle supports are .5x1x.060" and the main frame is 1x1x.090".

206207208

[4x4mike]

Here are my 2 cents and a suggestion.

A full length rack that could hold 400 pounds is going to be pretty heavy. If it's something you're going to use all the time it will work out well. If not it's a bit too much in the overkill column.

Our buddy Stuart built a rack I like. When I thought about redoing mine I was going to do something similar. His basket is about the same size wise, maybe smaller than my original version but it's removable. He built two crossbars out of rectangular tube with angled down feet. This is a picture of the shape of the crossbars:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U5JSTukmAaI/Uj_TRfrnKaI/AAAAAAAA7NU/Ne6Zwkle7B8/s800/DSC_2835.JPG

At the time of that pic he only had one bar made but all he needed it for was a flag mount, already very versatile. He ended up making another cross bar and welded tabs along the inside of the bars allowing a basket to be supported and bolted in. He built it that way because he has a canoe that is best held by cross bars. With his design he has cross bars as well as a basket and can mix and match for his needs.

Here it is with two Rotopax and a solar shower. Nice and low like mine.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qvlMWC_DgxM/UyevyWoL98I/AAAAAAAA_Y4/THyWYi4LWhg/s800/DSC_3730.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h4Ff1r3sz3U/UyezToPPcqI/AAAAAAAA_Y4/q2P_NkHAKbo/s800/DSC_3817.JPG

I do like the design of the images you posted but maybe consider making it in pieces. Like three crossbars with basket sections between them. Sean would need to chime in about extending a rack over the sun roof area as he's got feet that rest on the roof and not the rack tracks. I assume they sit still but I would imagine there would be vibration on fast dirt roads.

The baskets would have to be made so that the cross bars would be in the correct mounting locations for the Rocketbox but other than that you'd be golden. Another possible benefit with smaller pieces is the construction and storage. For me welding longer pieces to other longer pieces is harder because I'm not consistent with the heat and things tend to get out of square. If it was a large piece it would be much harder to get back aligned.

In your other posts you talk about getting everything outfitted for getting out. Trailers, Rocketboxes, hitch racks, etc. Full length racks look cool but see if you really need that much roof space. Once you venture far out from the tracks you bring on some added complexity. A Rocketbox can hold a lot of stuff and can be mounted to something within the tracks.

[4x4mike]

The rack is 7.5' long and 45" wide with a roof clearance of .5" which should clear the roof curve but just barely. Middle supports are .5x1x.060" and the main frame is 1x1x.090".


I have no idea on the dimensions of my rack or the material used. We have a couple nice steel suppliers locally and I bought a bunch of remnant material and I've never measured it. I do know that I built it so it would sit close to the roof and I bent part of the rack when I got up there and started walking around a few years ago. I've since bent it back using blocks of wood and stomping around on it again while it was removed from the roof.

Build your feet pretty stout so you don't have any bending. Width wise mine is just narrower than the rack tracks and any wider I would worry about bowing the material when it was loaded and romped offroad. I wanted mine to be somewhat lightweight so these were concerns while building.

[troyboy162]

Have you run out of space in the vehicle yet? Its should be the final frontier of space used. Poor gas milage and high center of gravity make it the worst place to put things. Firewood and gas are the only things I put up there these days and I can't fill a 1/2 rack on my worst days.

[4x4mike]

I'm with Troy. Four people, two of them in car seats, does change things but you have to get creative with space. The car seats mean you're not able to fold down the seats. Even with one seat and the 4Runners 50/50 rear seat, you're down a bit if space. Firewood, solar shower and light items are what go on my rack if I can help it. I can fit everything inside for 3-4 days, any more days requires more space for the family especially if we're boon docking.

One of the main reasons I extended my rack was for looks. When it lived inside of the Yakima setup it looked at home. Outside it looked off and required a front factory bar. I had the material in my scrap box so I built a 'front'. I leave it on because I have frequent trips to Home Depot for items like lumber and hitching up my trailer is not worth it.

Figures that last weekend when I had my rack off for welding and painting my weekly HD trip yielded three, 8 foot 2 X 6's. I would have loved to have them on the roof but I had to put them inside, over the kids heads, under the passenger seat head rest and almost on the dash. I've done worse but it's nice always having something up there and it's nice when it doesn't have too many trade offs.

[Seanz0rz]

I tend to use mine more to transport the odd home depot dimensional product or steel from IMS. That being said, I have found times when I threw stuff up there. Stuff that you don't want in the cabin, like gasoline, wet clothes, etc etc. or lightweight stuff like empty water jugs, chairs, tents, etc.

400 pounds dynamic load (that is, 400 pounds of stuff going down the highway) is way excessive, and IMHO dangerous. 150-200 is the max I would ever put up there, depending on rack weight.

Here is my thread: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10437-DIY-Roof-Rack-Seanz0rz-s-Low-Profile-Rack

I have been very happy with the 1"EMT. It's close enough to 0.60 wall tube that it doesn't matter. The load bearing cross bars used 3/4" RMC, which is nearly the same OD and has a wall thickness around 0.100. I am actually surprised how rigid the rack is once it's all welded up.

I will eventually toss my RTT up there, and that would be the heaviest thing I would ever put on the roof.

If you want my solidworks files in something sketchup can digest, let me know. I never completely finished them, but they are a decent starting point. Solidworks reads it out at ~40 pounds, so it is probably around 50.

[Kryptoroxx]

Sorry guys I am reading everything but it's a really long work day. I have answers for questions and as always the advice/ideas are awesome.

I just can't type very well on a phone. It's smarter than I am.

[Robinhood4x4]

I tend to use mine more to transport the odd home depot dimensional product or steel from IMS. That being said, I have found times when I threw stuff up there. Stuff that you don't want in the cabin, like gasoline, wet clothes, etc etc. or lightweight stuff like empty water jugs, chairs, tents, etc.

That reminds me. When I build mine, I'd like to make a compartment for "doggy bags", if you catch my drift. That way when we take the dogs walking and we pick up after them, it doesn't have to be in the truck with us until we find a trash can.

[Seanz0rz]

I always liked the idea of the xterra's roof basket. Not sure how well it worked.

[Kryptoroxx]

So here's the big post.


Here are my 2 cents and a suggestion.

A full length rack that could hold 400 pounds is going to be pretty heavy. If it's something you're going to use all the time it will work out well. If not it's a bit too much in the overkill column.


I don't think I was very clear on that honestly. I was considering the 400lbs as the load dynamically. I think you and Sean are correct. The rack would probably weigh around 100lbs...and that's way more than I want to heave even once. I would like to keep the platform attached but the fairing and lights will probably get stored inside the rocket box when not in use.



I do like the design of the images you posted but maybe consider making it in pieces. Like three crossbars with basket sections between them. Sean would need to chime in about extending a rack over the sun roof area as he's got feet that rest on the roof and not the rack tracks. I assume they sit still but I would imagine there would be vibration on fast dirt roads.

The baskets would have to be made so that the cross bars would be in the correct mounting locations for the Rocketbox but other than that you'd be golden. Another possible benefit with smaller pieces is the construction and storage. For me welding longer pieces to other longer pieces is harder because I'm not consistent with the heat and things tend to get out of square. If it was a large piece it would be much harder to get back aligned.

I like the multi-piece idea. I might be able to use clamps like what I'm using for the roll bar mod (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-Interlocking-Inner-Diameter-ID-Tube-Clamp-p-66.html) although I would have to find them in a square shape.
I'm sure that the measurements might be a tad off but I have been running in and out of the house with a tape measure for over a day trying to make it to scale.

With keeping the feet grounded I would use the molding tape that I used on the fenders. If it can hold the limited fenders to my truck it can keep the feet grounded as long as the rack isn't warped too badly.



In your other posts you talk about getting everything outfitted for getting out. Trailers, Rocketboxes, hitch racks, etc. Full length racks look cool but see if you really need that much roof space. Once you venture far out from the tracks you bring on some added complexity. A Rocketbox can hold a lot of stuff and can be mounted to something within the tracks.

I know and one of the reasons that I come up with a lot of ideas is because I am feeding off of everyone's input as well as what I have done. I have a ratio of ideas to money that is close to a 1000:1. I have to do something out here in the desert otherwise I would go absolutely looney.


I have no idea on the dimensions of my rack or the material used. We have a couple nice steel suppliers locally and I bought a bunch of remnant material and I've never measured it. I do know that I built it so it would sit close to the roof and I bent part of the rack when I got up there and started walking around a few years ago. I've since bent it back using blocks of wood and stomping around on it again while it was removed from the roof.

Build your feet pretty stout so you don't have any bending. Width wise mine is just narrower than the rack tracks and any wider I would worry about bowing the material when it was loaded and romped offroad. I wanted mine to be somewhat lightweight so these were concerns while building.

I'm still working on the feet. I would like them to be attached to the main frame so I might just have all the feet in the track attach to the cutouts for the yakimas. Keeping the rack height low enough and getting the feet in the tracks is the problem I am facing but I will figure something out.


Have you run out of space in the vehicle yet? Its should be the final frontier of space used. Poor gas milage and high center of gravity make it the worst place to put things. Firewood and gas are the only things I put up there these days and I can't fill a 1/2 rack on my worst days.

YES! One of the reasons I want to do a full rack is because I want to use the rocketbox and the rack at the same time.


I'm with Troy. Four people, two of them in car seats, does change things but you have to get creative with space. The car seats mean you're not able to fold down the seats. Even with one seat and the 4Runners 50/50 rear seat, you're down a bit if space. Firewood, solar shower and light items are what go on my rack if I can help it. I can fit everything inside for 3-4 days, any more days requires more space for the family especially if we're boon docking.

One of the main reasons I extended my rack was for looks. When it lived inside of the Yakima setup it looked at home. Outside it looked off and required a front factory bar. I had the material in my scrap box so I built a 'front'. I leave it on because I have frequent trips to Home Depot for items like lumber and hitching up my trailer is not worth it.

Figures that last weekend when I had my rack off for welding and painting my weekly HD trip yielded three, 8 foot 2 X 6's. I would have loved to have them on the roof but I had to put them inside, over the kids heads, under the passenger seat head rest and almost on the dash. I've done worse but it's nice always having something up there and it's nice when it doesn't have too many trade offs.

I am sure that I will not use it every day but there are many times I have had to put all kinds of stuff inside.....when I did not want to. My 4runner has smelled like all kinds of stuff.


I tend to use mine more to transport the odd home depot dimensional product or steel from IMS. That being said, I have found times when I threw stuff up there. Stuff that you don't want in the cabin, like gasoline, wet clothes, etc etc. or lightweight stuff like empty water jugs, chairs, tents, etc.

400 pounds dynamic load (that is, 400 pounds of stuff going down the highway) is way excessive, and IMHO dangerous. 150-200 is the max I would ever put up there, depending on rack weight.

Here is my thread: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10437-DIY-Roof-Rack-Seanz0rz-s-Low-Profile-Rack

I have been very happy with the 1"EMT. It's close enough to 0.60 wall tube that it doesn't matter. The load bearing cross bars used 3/4" RMC, which is nearly the same OD and has a wall thickness around 0.100. I am actually surprised how rigid the rack is once it's all welded up.

I will eventually toss my RTT up there, and that would be the heaviest thing I would ever put on the roof.

If you want my solidworks files in something sketchup can digest, let me know. I never completely finished them, but they are a decent starting point. Solidworks reads it out at ~40 pounds, so it is probably around 50.

I will think about it but for right now I'm trying my hand at designing it on my own. I'm still learning and Sketchup isn't the best program I've worked with but it is free. I like AutoCAD but the last time I worked with it was 12 years ago too.


That reminds me. When I build mine, I'd like to make a compartment for "doggy bags", if you catch my drift. That way when we take the dogs walking and we pick up after them, it doesn't have to be in the truck with us until we find a trash can.

Ya know I thought about this with wag bags but I hadn't thought about storing them up top. If I can do a bolt together fairing or a one piece that would keep something light like that from flying away that would be well worth it.

So now on to the evolution of the design. I tried to make a model of the rocket box but the cube that I replaced it with looks much better lol. I just wanted to give everyone an idea of how big it is and what the position of it is on the truck. I have the rocket box in the most forward position the factory rails will allow and the back end of the rocket box still hangs over a little in the back. I suppose if I wanted to get really fancy with the rack I could make my own mount for the rocket box into the roof rack. It's a pair of u-bolts with a tie plate on the inside of the box.

It is a lot more developed now but I am sure that it will change several more times but this is a rough idea I was envisioning. The rocket box opens on the passenger side so the driver side would be left open for the bulk items.

I am trying to keep it as simple as possible while making it a flexible rack. The fairing was a tossed on item and I'm not even sure I would use one however it might help with mpgs and noise.

I haven't gotten to the side rails/tie downs yet. I am mulling a couple of ideas over in my head.
1. Big spike tie downs (I do like that idea)
2. Aluminum angle bolted in with slots cut for tie downs
3. a tiny .5x.5" railing around the edge with supports 1" high
4. 300lbs tie downs welded to the 1x1" square tubing at various locations (kind of expensive)
209210211212

[4x4mike]

I have maybe $40 into my rack and at least half of that is paint.

I lucked out with using the nails. In my mind I was envisioning something that looked like that and didn't like what was available to purchase. Cruising HD I saw them and bought a handful. I need to buy more as I put them on my trailer in the places I always need tie downs.

[paddlenbike]

I am also a fan of Stuart's design, mentioned in the first page of this thread. If you leave the sliding nuts in the roof tracks, taking his load bars on and off is pretty quick and easy. Those load bars are useful for Home Depot trips. Then his modular basket that bolts to the load bars is nice because you it's not too heavy to put on only when you need it. I think his setup is pretty quiet too. My Yakima setup was so noisy I couldn't take it anymore.

[Kryptoroxx]

I am also a fan of Stuart's design, mentioned in the first page of this thread. If you leave the sliding nuts in the roof tracks, taking his load bars on and off is pretty quick and easy. Those load bars are useful for Home Depot trips. Then his modular basket that bolts to the load bars is nice because you it's not too heavy to put on only when you need it. I think his setup is pretty quiet too. My Yakima setup was so noisy I couldn't take it anymore.
If you had the round bar setup I agree with you 100%. My parents had those when I was a kid. You could tell how fast we were going by the whistle. My dad gave me a set of the aero bars off his old windstar to me and they are very quiet.

I also like Stuarts design and a little rack would work great till the fat rocket box covered up 75% of it.

One of my friends had an interesting idea for the rack. Put solar panels under it so that when you have it unloaded it would collect energy. Not sure if it would work or not but it made me think a little.

Good news in another area! It looks like I'm getting my extension so I will be in the usmc till Dec 2015. It at least gives me a shot at promotion which is what I want. If I get passed over I will more than likely be heading back to kentucky to finish engineering and try and get an internship/job with toyota. Maybe it's a pipe dream but we can all dream right?

[Kryptoroxx]

I have maybe $40 into my rack and at least half of that is paint.

I lucked out with using the nails. In my mind I was envisioning something that looked like that and didn't like what was available to purchase. Cruising HD I saw them and bought a handful. I need to buy more as I put them on my trailer in the places I always need tie downs.

I will see what I can do for budget but I highly highly doubt I will do as well as you did. I am estimating under 150 all said and done. The top rack will very likely be the last thing I do for a good while though. I have to get out and use the truck now. I will have a locker, a place to put extra fuel, extra light, and that's all I need to start getting out and about on some of these group trips. The only other thing I might get beyond what I have talked about is some bolt on recovery points as I only have the stock hook.

[Kryptoroxx]

So I've torn apart the design lots of times and came back with the same problem of being able to keep the rack completely under the yakima bars and the stock rails. Randomly while I was searching for extruded aluminum it just about hit me like a freight train but I could use the securing system out of a moving truck which is L-track or E-track. E-track I don't have awesome experiences with and it wouldn't work for the yakima racks but the L-track will. I might have to attach different feet to the yaks but they will work with that and then on top of that I have a great system to make tie downs with that are flexible and lightweight.

While this idea may or may not happen I think I have a better solution and still stay within the 60lbs range. Here are the models I have developed. Not sure about all the lights but I definitely like the frame better. It's a little more complex but the weight distribution keeps the weight bearing along the stock rails and supports the expanded metal better. The rack support also reflects where the weight will be placed on the rack. What I like best is that the rack frame is only 2" higher than the stock roof rails so very little height is added to the rocketbox mount to keep a low profile and keep some mpg where I can.

In regards to mpg I might make a fairing that extends all the way to the roofline but I'm not sure how much that will help. The overall drag would primarily come from the yakima racks and rocketbox anyway. 2" wouldn't turn the 4rnr into a school bus would it?

[Good Times]

Any reason why you want to use your yakima racks? Is it for the basket? If so why not just make your own cross bars that work off of the E/L Track and call it a day? Having the low profile rack is really great! Liking your design a lot!

[Kryptoroxx]

Any reason why you want to use your yakima racks? Is it for the basket? If so why not just make your own cross bars that work off of the E/L Track and call it a day? Having the low profile rack is really great! Liking your design a lot!

Main reason for using the yakima racks is the quietness of the bars even when sitting up so high. Second is weight. They are made from aluminum and might weigh 2 lbs apiece. I doubt I could do any better in the noise or weight dept plus they lock which gives a small deterrent to thievery.

As a small update I went through all 39? pages of the homemade roof racks on expedition portal (whew my eyes were tired) and I think my frame design is overkill to say the least. As I went through though I thought about the possibility of bending the crossbars to match the roof among other ideas. Anyone who wants to design their own roof rack needs to read that thread. I am still fighting with the feet design up front as well as width of the rack itself.

In short I have something to do for the weekend besides work out and run.

[Kryptoroxx]

I finally found what I was looking for in the way of the track but I didn't expect it to be so freakin expensive. I'm still shopping around for that kind of thing but I completed the frame rebuild and I decided to attempt a rough estimate on weight and expense. So far it looks like I'm not doing badly at all but I will definitely get extra as any steel supply is pretty far for me...actually what the hell am I thinking....Walmart is far for me.

Anyhoo here is the list so far with approximate weight and cost.

Main Sub Frame and Forward Feet:
Size and length: 8.2' of 1.5x.75x.125" Hot Rolled Channel
Weight: 1.17 per ft = 9.59lbs
Cost: $17

Outer Frame:
35' of 1x.5x.060" Carbon Rect. Tube
.557 per ft = 19.5lbs
Cost: $30.38

Main Cross Brace:
3.2' of 1x1x.120" Carbon Square Tube
1.43 per ft = 4.57lbs
Cost: $10.78

Auxillary Cross Bracing:
6.1' of 1.5x.5x.060" Carbon Rect Tube
.763 per ft = 4.65lbs
Cost: $12.68

Expanded metal:
48x96" weighs 25lbs
I have no idea so far. It's not pricy though

Light Mounts
2x2 Aluminum Angle
.557lbs per ft = 3.34lbs
Cost: $10

Cost of other stuff involved in the design:
100" of L-Track $65 bucks was the best price I could find
The tie-downs are 4 bucks a pop

LED lighting= pure wallet searing pain (around $250)

So with that being said I end up being right around where I want to be with weight @ just over 66lbs and for cost of the rack itself I am sitting pretty with around $110 for metal. I figure the expanded metal with be about 30 bucks. Add in the 65 bucks for track and 40 bucks for tie downs and it's at $215 bucks roughly before tax. There is a LOT of extra metal already in the budget. I got an extra 6' of everything as I am sure not everything will be up to par immediately.

So why the aluminum for the light mounts? Eh well lets be honest. If I told the wife that I was going to drop 600+ on a roof rack that I had to build and half of it was lights I think my future would be limited to just having 2 kids. It also saves a smidgen of weight and it keeps it as a bolt on affair which means I can add them later with a drill and some grade 8 hardware.

The 3d model isn't quite ready yet as I really scaled it down a lot. I sucked the edges in quite a bit so that the overhang over the stock rail location is only 1" instead of 3" as well as adjusting the sizes of steel tubing so that it wasn't quite as robust as before. I am still quite certain with the .120 wall cross member being notched in the center will hold well over 250lbs and the front portion should hold in the neighborhood of 150 with a little flex. I won't ever put that up there but overbuilding within reason is just fine.

I am debating whether to keep the fairing or not. I kinda like the idea of being able to increase my 3rz's hp by 100 just by picking 10 stickers but on the other hand I'm not sure how much good it will really do.

[Kryptoroxx]

Well I haven't updated in a while on this build but I have been working on the design slowly and making sure this is what I want and need. I have been giving the component idea serious thought and after tearing the www apart I was not able to come up with a 1x1" OD clamp like I found with the 1st gen roll bar. Also the shelf has been giving me food for thought as well with the amount of strength that was found in the racks I am making my shelf out of. All of the tubing was 1/2" but yet it took tons of abuse so I scaled my roof rack accordingly or at least I tried to. Here's the new frame design hot off the press and a little bit of pic goodness with my shelf.

One specific question. I did find 1" round tubing OD clamps ($30 apiece...) but assuming all things are equal that will fit in the square tubing as well correct? I know I'd have to fill some material in but my mind is arguing with itself on whether that's crazy enough to work or not.

My other idea for a connector is sleeving it. square tubing comes in a variety of sizes and I should be able to pull that off (and for less than $60 bucks plus shipping).

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/EBn10T.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipEBn10Tj)

Still slicing away but planning on how I will end up fitting it all together. I am considering trying to make it adjustable but I am not quite sure how I would pull that off. I am going to be capping the ends with plate steel that should provide a little lateral control for cargo not to fly out the window and also to provide vertical support with a triangle brace on each side. I very much doubt I would put any serious weight on top of the rack considering people's heads will be directly in front of the rack.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/tw20nm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/extw20nmj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/674/5Xn7tD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/iq5Xn7tDj)

The shelf is a total of 30" which is all the way to the tailgate. Plenty of space up top and below to spread out the gear.

[4x4mike]

One specific question. I did find 1" round tubing OD clamps ($30 apiece...) but assuming all things are equal that will fit in the square tubing as well correct? I know I'd have to fill some material in but my mind is arguing with itself on whether that's crazy enough to work or not.

My other idea for a connector is sleeving it. square tubing comes in a variety of sizes and I should be able to pull that off (and for less than $60 bucks plus shipping).



Where are you needing to use this clamp or sleeved section? Why do you need this junction? For removal, storage?

I like your new design. Are you set on using the Yakima bars for the box? The reason I ask is that the bars, feet and track all add height to you rack which is already up from sheet metal. If it were me I'd mount the box to the rack. You might need to make or use some sort of block to raise the box from the rack but it's doable. I used to work for a company that sold Yakima and Thule and came up with all kinds of custom mounting options. Sometimes people were all about the looks. If the box was high and loud they didn't care how it looked as long as it could be made quiet.

[4x4mike]

BTW, you need a shelf thread. I thought you had one but saw in some other post that you had one started.

Start one up, I've got some questions for you.

[Kryptoroxx]

Where are you needing to use this clamp or sleeved section? Why do you need this junction? For removal, storage?

I like your new design. Are you set on using the Yakima bars for the box? The reason I ask is that the bars, feet and track all add height to you rack which is already up from sheet metal. If it were me I'd mount the box to the rack. You might need to make or use some sort of block to raise the box from the rack but it's doable. I used to work for a company that sold Yakima and Thule and came up with all kinds of custom mounting options. Sometimes people were all about the looks. If the box was high and loud they didn't care how it looked as long as it could be made quiet.
Removal would be the primary use and storage would be secondary but honestly I'm not sure it would work out so well. The front feet will not have any bolts so tension has to be maintained from the rear bolts and I fear if I use either of those methods the tension will be lost and the front end would bounce. I am already planning rubber feet (1/4" should do the trick) to keep tension without stripping any bolts. All the feet will have a layer of rubber for weatherproofing. I don't have any rust in there and I plan to keep it that way.

I have given securing the box directly to the rack some serious thought. My only thought is if I did that two of my cross members would have to be in specific areas (not a huge problem but a consideration) so I could secure the box. You're right about the height though. The more I think about it the more I like it though. It might come down to testing it when I build it.

[4x4mike]

If it were me, one thing I'd consider is mounting the box directly to the rack. Previously you mentioned the top being expanded metal. One nice thing about that is that you can mount the steel to the rack in many many places. Another nice thing is that you can mount things directly to it and for the most part there is a hole there.

I'm not sure how many holes are already in the bottom of your Yakima box but if you use them all you'll have a solid mounting. If you use them along with large washers or a bar inside of the box and another under the expanded metal you've distributed the load in many more places than the few holes using the factory mounting option.

I've seen many broken boxes in my day. When someone drives into a garage or goes wild with too heavy of a load in the box the box breaks from the mounts. One thing I never liked is the holes in the bottom of the box. You only need a couple to mount it and the others are where cracks start. If you link them together with a bar and some bolts you've spread the load and have it secured in a larger area.

I've mounted fuel cans and full water jugs directly to my expanded steel with little to no movement. If the steel is light enough it will flex and eventually stretch in that spot but if you only mount the box in one location you can beef up those areas without adding an actual cross member. I'm thinking more of a 1" metal piece that stiffens the area and can bridge between rack members. If you wanted you could make it a little thicker or double it up at the box mounting points (holes) and thread holes. Mounting the box would be easier because you could just sink the appropriate length bolts through the box (with a lock washer) and call it good.

I'll try to dig up some pictures. I have some with my water jug mounted as well as a 5 gallon metal gas can. All are done with 5/16" hardware and have been tested offroad.

[Kryptoroxx]

The way it attaches is a common u-bolt that secures inside the box and there are two mounting options for each U-bolt. It's fairly flexible so mounting it to the rack is definitely an option. thanks for giving me an idea of the strength with expanded metal. I figured it would pull through somehow.

[4x4mike]

I'm very aware of the inside of the boxes. At the age of 15 I was the youngest at a shop and found myself in one on at least two occasions. We'll leave it at that.

Here is the image I'm trying to paint. Build your rack like the image above shows. Under the holes of the box weld 1" strips of steel to the underside of the expanded steel. If possible tie those strips or additional pieces or gussets to the rack members. Put the box on the rack and mark on the steel strips all of the mounting holes for the box. Drill and tap those holes, adding additional metal if it's necessary (or just weld nuts) for proper thread engagement to the strips. On the inside of the box use similar strips on the inside of the box to tie the mounting hardware together. Yakima used to use credit card shaped metal pieces to do this job but it only tied two holes. I'm thinking the entire strip.

If you use some cap headed hex screws you'll have a clean flat interior and be able to ditch the plastic wing nuts. You could also sandwich some 1" webbing under the interior strip to use as tie downs. When the box is not in use all you'll have is the strips welded to the underside of the expanded steel yet still a flat top side of the rack.

[Kryptoroxx]

I'm very aware of the inside of the boxes. At the age of 15 I was the youngest at a shop and found myself in one on at least two occasions. We'll leave it at that.

Here is the image I'm trying to paint. Build your rack like the image above shows. Under the holes of the box weld 1" strips of steel to the underside of the expanded steel. If possible tie those strips or additional pieces or gussets to the rack members. Put the box on the rack and mark on the steel strips all of the mounting holes for the box. Drill and tap those holes, adding additional metal if it's necessary (or just weld nuts) for proper thread engagement to the strips. On the inside of the box use similar strips on the inside of the box to tie the mounting hardware together. Yakima used to use credit card shaped metal pieces to do this job but it only tied two holes. I'm thinking the entire strip.

If you use some cap headed hex screws you'll have a clean flat interior and be able to ditch the plastic wing nuts. You could also sandwich some 1" webbing under the interior strip to use as tie downs. When the box is not in use all you'll have is the strips welded to the underside of the expanded steel yet still a flat top side of the rack.

I am very sorry about your negative experiences with yakima boxes but that has to be the funniest thing I've heard all day!

You're right though. There's too many positives to mounting it directly to the rack and then I can sell off the old yakima rack setup to someone else. I'm sure there's someone out there with a 3rd gen that would like quiet bars instead of the round ones. I'm sure that the box will be somewhere near at a reinforcement bar in at least 2 locations which would be good enough for me. On top of that it saves me 60 bucks or something like that in build budget. That track wasn't cheap at all.

Hopefully I will learn more as I gain experience with fabbing my own stuff up. Mike you have had some great ideas to incorporate that simplify my overly complex scheme.

Also I decided to leave the sleeving and joints out. I am mounting lights and such which will make it difficult to make truly easy to remove and re-install. It will end up staying up there more than likely. I will make the appropriate connections so it is not impossible to remove but in the end it will be easier to build as a one piece.

[4x4mike]

I will add that by the time I left that shop I managed part of it and was 24 so I feel I came out on top. As a group we transitioned to snowboard bags as they still fit a person and were much quieter when the victim started to go crazy.


I'd hang on to the Wingriders and Wingbars until you know it's all going to work. I think I mentioned it above but I'd use most if not all of the holes in the cargo box to be able to call it good.

[Kryptoroxx]

I will add that by the time I left that shop I managed part of it and was 24 so I feel I came out on top. As a group we transitioned to snowboard bags as they still fit a person and were much quieter when the victim started to go crazy.


I'd hang on to the Wingriders and Wingbars until you know it's all going to work. I think I mentioned it above but I'd use most if not all of the holes in the cargo box to be able to call it good.

I almost coughed up my dinner reading the second line. This sounds like something that would happen at my shop without a doubt. We had a guy that would fit in a gym locker (the 3 ft ones) so that was used liberally.

Man Mike you do know your racks! You're the first person that actually knew what they were called. I will definitely use all 4 corners. I was just talking about the holes being close to actual support bars for the rack itself and not the reinforced expanded metal. I will see if my Sketchup skills are good enough to come up with an actual finished product on the computer screen tonight and tomorrow.

[Kryptoroxx]

Here we go. Sketchup was nice to me tonight. Wish to hell I had the 600 bucks to just buy the pro version so when I go to design armor and such when I finalize my plans I can just send it to the laser cutter. Don't know how much that would cost....but I'm sure it would be worth it.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/S3kIaO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipS3kIaOj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/JZU80Q.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0JZU80Qj)

There is just one concern I will have to address and that is the outer edge of the rack. Since I designed it with a half inch lip I may or may not have to add blocks to clear the edge of the rack. I intend to mount the box as far over to the right as possible to save space on the rack. But this model at least gives me a heads up. It is as much to scale as I am able to do.

[Kryptoroxx]

So I've been doing a lot of thinking, reading, and searching about warping metal when welding and how to try and keep it from happening
...or at least limit it.

Would using a mitered joint be effective in limiting this? What I mean by mitering is cutting a triangle out on the inside of the bend and then bending the angle I need. Anyway the bending would leave one solid outer wall to resist twisting, warping, and the like. The downside would be that I would be driving with two 12 ft sticks of steel on the roof racks. In Kentucky I wouldn't have a problem but what about cali?

[Seanz0rz]

Tie a red flag to the end of it and you're fine.

[Kryptoroxx]

Tie a red flag to the end of it and you're fine.
That's what I was going to do as a guess but I would rather not have to deal with the chp.

[Seanz0rz]

I will be starting a new roof rack design soon. Not sure what direction I will go, but I think more of a flat rack than a basket. I'd like to be able to toss the RTT up there on occasion

[Kryptoroxx]

I have been meaning to upload the results of my solidworks efforts on the roof rack and here it is. For now I am going to leave it without expanded metal as it's 40lbs as is and most of the stuff I will be carrying is going to span the braces anyway. I'm picking up some .5 sq for closing up the big gaps but since the stuff is so cheap I can afford to get plenty. Right now I'm just picking up 24ft because it's about that much a foot. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/zz7wmc.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipzz7wmcj)

Another tiny project I wanted to do is shackle hangers since a plate bumper is a long ways off for me. I am thinking of doing some really lightweight minimalist ideas to keep the front end from diving around though. This week I am going to be pricing out some laser cutting on this. I imagine it won't be cheap but I guess I could see on the price. This particular one is designed for the rear rather than the front. I am starting to really enjoy the SolidWorks experience (is there such a thing?) and it's getting much easier to design according to how that program works.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/qyFekm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paqyFekmj)

I am not the one that originally came up with the idea however spent some time tweaking the design this weekend with plywood and came up with something satisfactory for my own twist.

[Robinhood4x4]

Are you going to laser cut the outline and then weld in the gusset? Since it's going to be cut with a computer you might as well have it all done in one step. I'd recommend a nice round fillet instead of the hard angles of the gusset to minimize stress risers.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-FQpqdq5/0/L/i-FQpqdq5-L.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Are you going to laser cut the outline and then weld in the gusset? Since it's going to be cut with a computer you might as well have it all done in one step. I'd recommend a nice round fillet instead of the hard angles of the gusset to minimize stress risers.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-FQpqdq5/0/L/i-FQpqdq5-L.jpg
I was just trying to eliminate hard edges but you bring up a good point. Haven't messed with arch much yet but I have to learn sometime. Thanks!

[Kryptoroxx]

Are you going to laser cut the outline and then weld in the gusset? Since it's going to be cut with a computer you might as well have it all done in one step. I'd recommend a nice round fillet instead of the hard angles of the gusset to minimize stress risers.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-FQpqdq5/0/L/i-FQpqdq5-L.jpg

Hate to double post but I have to ask the question. What is a stress riser? I'm guessing that it's the stress introduced into the piece by the heat of welding.

I am not an engineer and not even a professional welder but I design and build off my idea of function so any and all tips anyone has are always considered and appreciated.

[Seanz0rz]

I think the best way to explain it would be to show you this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndSR_S0JmdU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BZnn5OYcBc

If you have ~hour, watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdCh5W8mP-U

Here is a more scientific explanation:
http://www.engineersedge.com/material_science/stress_concentration_fundamentals_9902.htm

When I was in school, we would use test coupons to find material properties. They were tested to failure. The failure point was always at the end of the necked down section where the tool was allowed to rest at the start or end of the cut. This area was probably .001 or less deeper than the rest of the section. Since it was the thinnest section, the stress was higher in that section and failed first.

http://www.corrosionpedia.com/images/uploads/dc9a16018aa3472fbdc0ec72f429db3e.jpg?width=400

[Robinhood4x4]

Yup, what sean said. Basically, any inside corner increases stress.

Weld stress is something a little different. That's the HAZ or Heat Affected Zone.

[Kryptoroxx]

I think the best way to explain it would be to show you this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndSR_S0JmdU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BZnn5OYcBc

If you have ~hour, watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdCh5W8mP-U


Here is a more scientific explanation:
http://www.engineersedge.com/material_science/stress_concentration_fundamentals_9902.htm

When I was in school, we would use test coupons to find material properties. They were tested to failure. The failure point was always at the end of the necked down section where the tool was allowed to rest at the start or end of the cut. This area was probably .001 or less deeper than the rest of the section. Since it was the thinnest section, the stress was higher in that section and failed first.

http://www.corrosionpedia.com/images/uploads/dc9a16018aa3472fbdc0ec72f429db3e.jpg?width=400

Very interesting! Definitely appreciate the explanation guys. I will keep that in mind for future ideas I might try to design. There are a lot of times I wish I could just leave the military and go finish my education now instead of later but I've got a good thing going right now and a retirement check will do a lot more good when trying to finish my education than a separation payment.

[Kryptoroxx]

Yup, what sean said. Basically, any inside corner increases stress.

Weld stress is something a little different. That's the HAZ or Heat Affected Zone.

Thanks again for the tips. Made the changes and I was surprised that working with curves was easier than polygons. Contacted a few laser cutters in the area (well as close as I could get to my area) to see what pricing would be.

[Kryptoroxx]

So one more tip. The only cutter to get back to me had a shop minimum of 150 which is fine. Firing up a million dollar machine for tiny amounts of time wouldn't be worth it to them.

However once he saw the design he recommended water jet instead of laser due to the thickness and small size. Not entirely sure why on the size issue but the water jet does thick metals much better. Now I'm in the process of finding a company that looks like it would be willing to make a small order.

[Seanz0rz]

I know our laser at work doesn't do great with features that are smaller than material thickness. For example, the thickness of material around the hole is about as thick as the material. You usually end up with wonky parts at that point. On a material standpoint, there is just too much heat being applied to too small of an area.

You should be able to find a job shop that will do it.

[Kryptoroxx]

I know our laser at work doesn't do great with features that are smaller than material thickness. For example, the thickness of material around the hole is about as thick as the material. You usually end up with wonky parts at that point. On a material standpoint, there is just too much heat being applied to too small of an area.

You should be able to find a job shop that will do it.
There are a couple of water jets in the area and then there's also west coast broncos in yucca valley and they have a 5 axis plasma table. I tried to drop by today but they were already closed. I will see if I can call tomorrow and set up some email communications. If they are willing to one off my parts I might just use them for convince sake. They are a custom off road shop that makes custom bronco parts and suspensions. It should be right up their alley.

[Kryptoroxx]

There are a couple of water jets in the area and then there's also west coast broncos in yucca valley and they have a 5 axis plasma table. I tried to drop by today but they were already closed. I will see if I can call tomorrow and set up some email communications. If they are willing to one off my parts I might just use them for convince sake. They are a custom off road shop that makes custom bronco parts and suspensions. It should be right up their alley.

....and every single one of them did not respond. Talked to a few shops that had plasma tables. Got blown off by one shop but then found the little guy next door to them and while he doesn't have a plasma table what he does by hand is very impressive.

He also has a shop rate of $40 an hour which I find extremely reasonable. I actually have re-vamped the design so I can work with his equipment and off of his suggestions. He talked (and taught) me a few things and then said he was really busy at the moment but in a couple weeks he should have several of the pre-runner jobs out of the door so he would have more time. This is the kind of guy I was looking for. If you need a fabricator in the yucca valley area All Terrain Fabrication is really worth checking out.

Oh yeah so today I went and got myself a few goodies. Tomorrow I am going to finish a few projects hopefully and perhaps I can get started on the outer part of the top rack. I scared the heck outta some of the socal drivers today as I had multiple 12ft sticks of steel up top lol. It flexed the top rack when I would hit bumps. Not anything dangerous but it made tailgaters think really really hard about their life expectancy.

I also wandered around Harbor Freight for the first time (don't judge me) and found a couple of very useful items including some more magnetic squares (man I love those things!!) and a knotted steel wheel for the grinder.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/ajA2Vn.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idajA2Vnj)

[Kryptoroxx]

Made lots of progress but sadly none of it was on the top rack.

I do however have a functioning welding cart and my table is much sturdier after putting the dual locking Castors on.

Tomorrow I will be starting to do the math on the cuts I need to make to do the outline. After seeing the steel in person this is going to be more of a platform than anything else. I have no doubts to its strength though. I should have this ready for mojave as well as shackle hangers for the front at least.

Man my math is rusty lol. I'm having to Google everything.

[Robinhood4x4]

If you need any help, let us know.

[Kryptoroxx]

Well a sanity check would be awesome since my wife is great with latin and classical knowledge a ruler and protractor are not her greatest assets.

So this is how I'm measuring the cuts. First of all the middle of measurement x will be the middle of the triangle. When I look for the angle of A I do this by taking 180 deg minus the inside measurement of the angle. In my first angle I'm looking at 150 deg so the angle I would use is 30 deg right?

I included an illustration to help out.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/Ko69ga.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9Ko69gaj)

More progress has been made. I am starting to finish up the cargo shelf and I am also putting the finishing touches on my welder cart. I don't get much time to work before the sun goes down and gets chilly. Soon I should have some pics but right now I'm just trying not to mess these up.

[Seanz0rz]

Looks good to me. I always take the compliment to the inside angle (30 deg in this case), divide by 2, and that's your cut from perpendicular.

[Kryptoroxx]

Ok got that part right!!! Thanks Sean.

I am going to build this tomorrow to give me a hand with these cuts. I figure that it will help immensely with making these inside cuts. I don't think that it would be very easy to take this into the hobby shop where the chop saw is if I want to leave the outside wall.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Angle-Grinder-Stand-For-Safe-Use/

I suppose I could make the cuts with a sawsall. What would be perfect is a band saw but I do not currently have access to one of those.

[Seanz0rz]

Get yourself one of these in aluminum:http://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200456134_200456134?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Construction-_-Measuring%20Tools-_-433607&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=433607&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=433607&gclid=CjwKEAiA8_KlBRD9z_jl_fKBhQkSJABDKqiX8qeK8l6Y kbU1qZRls-M9PfEW2HbCDi5OP10mPY277BoCvKLw_wcB

It will allow you to mark the angles on the tube. I cut all mine with a 4.5 angle grinder and cut off wheel.

[Kryptoroxx]

Get yourself one of these in aluminum:http://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200456134_200456134?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Construction-_-Measuring%20Tools-_-433607&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=433607&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=433607&gclid=CjwKEAiA8_KlBRD9z_jl_fKBhQkSJABDKqiX8qeK8l6Y kbU1qZRls-M9PfEW2HbCDi5OP10mPY277BoCvKLw_wcB

It will allow you to mark the angles on the tube. I cut all mine with a 4.5 angle grinder and cut off wheel.

I have been using one of those for years but with wood lol. The thought didn't even cross my mind that it would work for what I'm after (although it probably should have)

THANKS!

I am still considering building the guide to help steady my hand but I might give the first cut a try and see how it goes free hand.

Here's some pics from last night's work. I have built on a hook for my leads with the welder cart. My goofy butt miscalculated the space I needed for the castors to clear the frame and ended up adding camber to my wheels. The cart is VERY stable and while it takes up a bit more room I am satisfied with the result given the fact I planned out nothing with building it.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/51pDg1.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ey51pDg1j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/6D0AtJ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ey6D0AtJj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/NIUVqt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7NIUVqtj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/VCUGD2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idVCUGD2j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/zPZ88f.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eyzPZ88fj)

[Seanz0rz]

My advise for the grinder is let it do the work and never force it. That's how people get hurt!

[Kryptoroxx]

Pressure also flexes the blade and gives you a wider and concave cut.

And if you're unlucky like one of my friends the blade busts at 13k and imbeds itself in your face.

Yep the blade does the work. Easier that way.

[Robinhood4x4]

Well a sanity check would be awesome since my wife is great with latin and classical knowledge a ruler and protractor are not her greatest assets.

So this is how I'm measuring the cuts. First of all the middle of measurement x will be the middle of the triangle. When I look for the angle of A I do this by taking 180 deg minus the inside measurement of the angle. In my first angle I'm looking at 150 deg so the angle I would use is 30 deg right?

When you make your cuts, make sure you measure the length to the longest edge of the steel, not to the middle of the angle. Otherwise you'll end up short.

[Kryptoroxx]

When you make your cuts, make sure you measure the length to the longest edge of the steel, not to the middle of the angle. Otherwise you'll end up short.
Not sure I am following but if you are referring to making the cut on the far side if the line to account for the kerf of the cut off wheel then yes absolutely I agree.

Not sure what the kerf of the cutoff wheel is yet but I imagine it's somewhere around 1/16th.

[Kryptoroxx]

When you make your cuts, make sure you measure the length to the longest edge of the steel, not to the middle of the angle. Otherwise you'll end up short.
Wait....lol I think it just clicked.

In my case since I am making a octogon I will always measure to the outside of the shape in order to get the correct legth of the sides.

[Robinhood4x4]

Wait....lol I think it just clicked.

In my case since I am making a octogon I will always measure to the outside of the shape in order to get the correct legth of the sides.

Yup, that's it. (Not that I've ever made this mistake before...)

[Seanz0rz]

Even though metal is a bit more forgiving than say wood in this respect, it's easier to grind a little off than it is to fill big gaps. On something like this, I'd cut .0625 larger then grind the angle perfect.

[Kryptoroxx]

Even though metal is a bit more forgiving than say wood in this respect, it's easier to grind a little off than it is to fill big gaps. On something like this, I'd cut .0625 larger then grind the angle perfect.

I agree especially on stuff that isn't very thick. Need to pick up a digital protractor so I can easily check the final angle after I make my cuts. I just found one on Amazon for 20 bucks or so.

[Kryptoroxx]

Small update. Made an arm for the grinder. Didn't copy the plans exactly but it came out nicely and it is square.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/22/70affd4710083afcf9c6c3c95b9fef48.jpg

[4x4mike]

I remember guys making stands like those back in the day. I don't really remember the purpose but I think it was for notching. What are your plans for it?

[Kryptoroxx]

Yep I made it for notching my angles. I think of it as an extra hand. I want to make my outer frame out of only 2 pieces of steel.

Sadly the tubing came in 20ft sticks instead of 12ft so I think I actually have enough left over to take a stab at making a ladder for this top rack. We shall see though.

[Kryptoroxx]

**Update**

I spent most of the day working on the outer frame making sure the angles were right and everything....somehow I still have to bust two welds tomorrow to relieve the stress out of the frame. Honestly I don't know how it happened but it did. On to the pics...

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/SdPjL0.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlSdPjL0j)
It was a little troublesome to work with the longer pieces of steel but it paid off when I could nudge the angles and have them come out perfect.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/dbk5y8.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exdbk5y8j)
I found that before welding I actually needed .4 deg. more to come out with a perfect angle. I think the most my rack is out is .2 or .3.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/00qSch.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ip00qSchj)
First attempt at a level workspace....fail
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/Dx99Pj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pdDx99Pjj)
Second....
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/XQ8Vzb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pdXQ8Vzbj)
Third....and I still wasn't super happy with it but I didn't have 4 buckets (which would have been perfect)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/e18IiY.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ide18IiYj)
You can see the dip in the front right corner....grrrrrrr. It messed up the subsequent weld which will probably take a little bit of time to correct....but this thing will be flat.

[Seanz0rz]

Looking great! It is a nightmare to get stuff close to flat when nothing is level, flat, straight, etc.

My roof rack wasn't straight and it bugged me big time. I won't be making that mistake twice!

[Kryptoroxx]

Looking great! It is a nightmare to get stuff close to flat when nothing is level, flat, straight, etc.

My roof rack wasn't straight and it bugged me big time. I won't be making that mistake twice!

Yeah I consider myself lucky that it wasn't worse than what it was....although if I would have had my head on straight I would have used my sheet metal clamp to ensure they were flat....oh well.

I am giving some serious thought to the idea of building a ladder on the rear hatch. I have enough 1x1" and the other necessary supplies like VHB tape and thin sheet metal for the brackets. I'm just not sure on how to bend the square tubing. I suppose I could make slices and weld them back together like I did on the rack. Anyone else have a good idea? Never tried to bend square tubing before.

[Robinhood4x4]

I would have tacked it all together flat on the concrete. Put down a small square of thin sheetmetal to protect the concrete from scorch marks.

[Kryptoroxx]

I would have tacked it all together flat on the concrete. Put down a small square of thin sheetmetal to protect the concrete from scorch marks.
Lol my garage is less level than my top rack as it is!!

[Robinhood4x4]

It doesn't have to be level, it just needs to be flat and that concrete is flatter than the dip in your steel. Besides, you're using jackstands which are following the contour of the concrete anyway or at least in 1" increments if you're compensating with the adjustment in the jackstand.

[Kryptoroxx]

It doesn't have to be level, it just needs to be flat and that concrete is flatter than the dip in your steel. Besides, you're using jackstands which are following the contour of the concrete anyway or at least in 1" increments if you're compensating with the adjustment in the jackstand.
The dip in my steel came from a crooked bend more than likely. I was thinking about it this morning. Hopefully soon I can get outside and fix it.

[Kryptoroxx]

It doesn't have to be level, it just needs to be flat and that concrete is flatter than the dip in your steel. Besides, you're using jackstands which are following the contour of the concrete anyway or at least in 1" increments if you're compensating with the adjustment in the jackstand.
I ended up slicing two more welds to release the stress in the rack but I didn't have to cut all the way through any pieces. I just had to tweak them a little and everything welded up really nicely. Still working so I will report back later.

[Kryptoroxx]

Got 90% of the welding done today and so far so good. It took me perhaps 20 minutes to fix the frame and then it was on to the interior. Overall I think I only heat tweaked one piece and it's the center of the X frame in the back. There is very little to no flex in the frame when I was pressing on it which is good. The frame is also very lightweight. I can easily lift it with one arm. I highly doubt I will get a lot of work, if any, this week so next weekend I plan on finishing this thing up.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/Db5RXo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paDb5RXoj)
So I actually had to break one of the welds loose on this one. It was half an inch out of square (measuring mistake)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/nEOdj5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0nEOdj5j)
All the crossbars in taking a break
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/eCrIVt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9eCrIVtj)
Starting the measurements
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/GgRpFa.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipGgRpFaj)
So you might notice that one x does not look like the other. After I tacked the first one I realized I had measured 16.25 as center when it should have been 18.25. I didn't have enough steel to sacrifice the mistake so I just went with it.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/913/rA4cN7.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pdrA4cN7j)
Fully welded on both sides. It is pretty darn flat. Minus the weld beads it should be very flat but I might have tweaked the center of the 1x1" Which ever way it arcs though will be the top of the rack. That will give me something to fight the weight with.

I also noticed it is a little narrow to fit much up there besides the rocket box so when I go to test fit everything I may end up adding wings on the side to the edge of the roof. Right now it is the width of the tracks plus an inch.

[4x4mike]

Looking good Mr. Roxx. I've found it's hard to keep things flat and square. I don't weld enough to have a routine down to combat warping due to heat. It sounds like you're figuring it out and moving right along.

[Kryptoroxx]

Looking good Mr. Roxx. I've found it's hard to keep things flat and square. I don't weld enough to have a routine down to combat warping due to heat. It sounds like you're figuring it out and moving right along.
What I've found to somewhat effective is tacking several pieces in place and then hopping around doing random sides letting the welds cool and tighten (didn't believe that till I was doing my angle welds. I could watch it on the digital protractor) and then flipping the piece and doing the other side.

[Kryptoroxx]

So in light of my incredible bad luck and poor foresight as well as a how to on reinforcing the roof that I found my project has taken a slight detour to dismantle the interior and remove the headliner.

The bad luck that I have is because out of all the days I remove my stock rails it rains the very next day....which leads to one of the reasons I removed the headliner. The other is apparently there are people who have ripped the roof from putting too much weight on the roof up front. So I am reinforcing it just because I am modifying the rack system.

It will also allow me to create a new attachment system by drilling more holes up front and welding nuts on the backside of the steel strip I am mounting to reinforce the roof.

[Kryptoroxx]

I picked up the steel. I just went with hot roll as I don't see the small strength advantage making a huge difference. It was a nice cheap 15 bucks. On payday I will be picking up all the hardware. I should only need some fender washers and some metric bolts.

Can I use rivnuts on this project? I would like to be able to remove the roof rack after everything is back together. I have no experience with rivnut so I have to ask.

[Seanz0rz]

What do you want to do with the rivnuts? Hold the front of the rack to the roof? That should work OK just seal the crap out if em!

Do you still have your headliner down? Can you take a bunch of pics for me?

[Kryptoroxx]

What do you want to do with the rivnuts? Hold the front of the rack to the roof? That should work OK just seal the crap out if em!

Do you still have your headliner down? Can you take a bunch of pics for me?
Exactly, and hold the 3/16 flat bar up as well lol. There will be plenty of sealant used lol. I used caulking last time and that seemed to work well.

If they work like they look they do I insert them into the bottom of the flat bar and then bolt through the roof correct? I will be using vhb to holt the weight of the flat bar to the roof I just need something to bolt to that will tighten without a wrench being down there.

And I can take some pics for you. Just need to get done with work first lol.

[4x4mike]

Rivnuts are nice but I would use the factory tracks to hold down the main portion of your rack. Like Sean said, sealed up rivnuts for the front supports would be a nice idea.

I'd stick with your plan of reinforcing the roof and the underside of the factory rails. The rails and holes are already there and beef up where you feel is necessary.

[Seanz0rz]

Weld nuts would be better. Or tap the 3/16 bar.

[Seanz0rz]

I'm at work so not much help from me today. YouTube is probably your friend for ideas.

[Kryptoroxx]

Rivnuts are nice but I would use the factory tracks to hold down the main portion of your rack. Like Sean said, sealed up rivnuts for the front supports would be a nice idea.

I'd stick with your plan of reinforcing the roof and the underside of the factory rails. The rails and holes are already there and beef up where you feel is necessary.
I am using all of those supports but I am extending the holes and reinforcement up to roughly directly above the drivers head and hopefully tying in to the front cage support. It might take a little bending but it is very possible from what it looks like.

Hadn't thought about rapping the metal itself. That's the kiss method. I like it.

[Kryptoroxx]

Ok photos of the roof. I don't have the sunroof so hopefully it's still of some use to you guys.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/yTQ5VR.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exyTQ5VRj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/gbL0ry.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exgbL0ryj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/xejzrk.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idxejzrkj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/Ji2IYG.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5Ji2IYGj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/s6QWp1.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exs6QWp1j)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/TXNkyi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idTXNkyij)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/ilaw6H.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0ilaw6Hj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/YXMFag.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0YXMFagj)

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks, That helps! I have no idea what shape the structure above the windshield is suppose to be. I still don't know if I even got mine close.

[Kryptoroxx]

No worries. I had to order all of the hardware since no one in this town carries a decent selection of taps or metric hardware so I might get as far as cutting the support bars down but that's it. Everything else will have to wait till next weekend.

[Kryptoroxx]

Small and tiny update.

Picked up another tool to help get things straight. A fella on Craigslist has this old craftsman drill press .5" drive for sale for 35 bucks.....he'll uv a deal. Rpm's are perfect for steel. It's not a big press but it's perfect for my purposes and much better than wearing out my little 3/8" drill.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/01/ace11c1ff6ca2673e0906a1ec46990ba.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Got my lights in for the rear. I was looking at how much I had to disassemble and figured now was as good a time as any since it's apart already. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/833b662d5f6e27d0c70b4e35ad104319.jpg

These are the 3w version. I heard reviews about the 9w getting hot so I figured it was best to play it safe especially since I have 12 of them. Also heard it's good to run a 22 ohm resistor to regulate the voltage going to the lights.

I'm going to look up how it would be best to wire these up. Also thinking about making a few switches for the ceiling lights and tailgate lights. Thoughts anyone?

[Seanz0rz]

Nice! How tight is the beam? Was looking at these for rock lights but heard reports that they were too much of a spot.

[Kryptoroxx]

Nice! How tight is the beam? Was looking at these for rock lights but heard reports that they were too much of a spot.
Testing on a temp platform proved more challenging than I first realized but I was able to get a few decent shots.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/4997bf6e2583ddf3b5cf760095d6dc55.jpg wall @ 7 ft or so

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/90c64a5fe6fb44d7bb956742ac0ef359.jpg pinpoint light. These little things are bright for what they are.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/c2247b9aa1a3c4934d4b921fb9203a3b.jpg complete dark @ about 3 ft.

Seems to be largely a flood pattern if you ask me.

I figure if I put 4 in the tailgate, 4 in the ceiling on top of the led already in the dome light, and then sink 2 on each side to illuminate under the shelf I will have a fairly bright area. Also to simplify wiring it seems to make sense I do two switches and leave the ceiling lights wired with the door light.

[Kryptoroxx]

All of my parts are in!! I have steel for the roof and I have a buddy available to help me this weekend whenever I get time lol.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/05/6dfa2cfcc7b055c852aa27bb0a4bd974.jpg

So I have rubber for the roof as a cushion and isolator on the inside and outside of the roof.

I picked up some fender washers so I can put space in between the roof so it doesn't rattle.

The bolts are the rack but I went ahead and spent the cash on stainless and also purchased a high quality tap since I will be making so many holes.

I still have sealant left from when I did the monstaliner.

I'm starting to see where so many people have scrap steel. I have a bunch and I haven't even been welding for 6 months.

[Robinhood4x4]

I think the SS screws are going into regular steel, but just in case they're going into more SS, be careful. Stainless on stainless galls and will basically weld itself together. You need to use anti seize.

Instead of tapping, would it be easier to just weld a nut where ever it needs to go?

[Kryptoroxx]

I think the SS screws are going into regular steel, but just in case they're going into more SS, be careful. Stainless on stainless galls and will basically weld itself together. You need to use anti seize.

Instead of tapping, would it be easier to just weld a nut where ever it needs to go?

They are going into regular steel but thanks for the heads up!

Reason for tapping instead of nuts is because I will have no access underneath to hold a nut and I could either do weld nuts or just tap the metal. Tapping the metal was cheaper and easier too lol.

It will all become a lot clearer when I am actually able to grab my buddy and do this. The goal is not to increase capacity of the roof....just distribute it a lot more evenly.

[Kryptoroxx]

Very little got done today but measurements and the two bars ended up being 7ft long on the dot. Now if only toyota had put the roof holes on some kind of normal interval. I swear every one of them is a different measurement.

My buddy and I did a little more jaw jacking than work but at least no beer was involved so nothing crazy happened.

Tomorrow I should get all the holes done. Trying to decide whether I should cut out all the threaded inserts or not. They are weld nuts on the underside. I could leave them but the bar would sit much more flush to the roof if I cut them out.

[Bandit Runner]

Got my lights in for the rear. I was looking at how much I had to disassemble and figured now was as good a time as any since it's apart already. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/833b662d5f6e27d0c70b4e35ad104319.jpg

These are the 3w version. I heard reviews about the 9w getting hot so I figured it was best to play it safe especially since I have 12 of them. Also heard it's good to run a 22 ohm resistor to regulate the voltage going to the lights.

I'm going to look up how it would be best to wire these up. Also thinking about making a few switches for the ceiling lights and tailgate lights. Thoughts anyone?

FYI, I have 14 of these lights on my roof rack, but in the 9 watt version. Not to discourage you, but after a year, I've had 3 of them get water inside them and stop working. I'm thinking about getting some clear epoxy and sealing them all up better. Good luck with yours.

[Kryptoroxx]

FYI, I have 14 of these lights on my roof rack, but in the 9 watt version. Not to discourage you, but after a year, I've had 3 of them get water inside them and stop working. I'm thinking about getting some clear epoxy and sealing them all up better. Good luck with yours.

Thanks for the heads up on that. These are all going on the inside but I might just do the epoxy thing like you're saying as a precaution.

Got a lot done today although it won't look like it in the pictures. I measured stuff until my eyes crossed and then drilled a few holes. Now I have 4 additional holes in my roof and a couple of metal bars running underneath the roof all drilled and tapped. The drill press helped a little but a couple of my holes were off by a little despite the accuracy.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/6dkTeZ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ex6dkTeZj)
Fitting test. The good news is about halfway down the roof there's a cross beam that I was able to slide the bar over helping me further distribute the weight. The best part is it's forward of the roof rack rails.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/BvPUNy.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idBvPUNyj)
The rails run from the rear crossmember all the way to the front and when all the bolts are in you can feel that the solidarity of the roof is improved.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/lMDMIY.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eylMDMIYj)
I spent a lot of the day standing on my rear tire with my buddy on the inside checking for fitment. Everything fits fairly well but it's not perfect. I had a few things get out of line. Nothing however that wouldn't thread.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/Y6ASPl.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paY6ASPlj)
It's hard to see the second hole in the pic but it's there. It was easier to drill the new holes than it was to measure and drill the stock roof rack holes. I ended up using a 5mm drill bit and installing the metal bars and using the drill bit to mark the length. Then I would pull the bar out and then center the holes and drill the bar. Worked pretty well for anyone who might try this.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/907/mZHw9N.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p7mZHw9Nj)
The pictures as I said don't show a whole lot but there was a good bit of progress made. Next weekend I will be mounting the roof rack. I think my mounting system is going to change for the forward mounts. The channel steel might work fine in the back but for the front there is so much slope that I think I will end up fabbing something up from scratch to work with all the angles.

[Bandit Runner]

Oh, If all the light are inside, then you should be fine. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[Kryptoroxx]

Oh, If all the light are inside, then you should be fine. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

So am I as long as this mounting nightmare doesn't get me first!

So we will go with good news first.

-The rack fits squarely on top of the holes and maybe just a tad wider so that's good.
-The main beams of support will mount with channel steel directly below them so the weight of the load is directly supported by multiple mounts (4 of them are perfect, 6 are very close)
-The rack sits about 3/4" inch above the roof w/ 1 1/2" channel steel so that's within the concept of low profile. If that's too low I have no idea. Definitely would like some experienced opinion here. I would like to leave it as is but I'm not locked to that height.
-The rack can easily be lifted up onto the roof. I think it weighs around 40lbs?

Ok now we move onto the bad stuff....but first we have pics.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/K65Pju.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exK65Pjuj)
Of course I failed to take a picture of the overhang but It's about an inch into the windshield or so. 93.5" is the total length iirc.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/pzVWOl.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcpzVWOlj)
I think the shape looks good but it might be a tad narrow. Easily fixed but I'm not sure if I want a behemoth top rack. I just want to have some usable space after I secure the rocket box up there.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/FA9DWb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exFA9DWbj)
Good clearance between the tailgate. It looks like about an inch to an inch and a half.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/yaY5xO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipyaY5xOj)
The channel steel might be one of those good concept, bad idea type things. Might be going to a set of custom bent flat steel mounts with a small gusset and just making them one at a time by measurement.

I don't think I could fill that by welding. It looks to be more than 1/4 gap although I should have measured lol. I think it's closer to .5
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/XMkh6O.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idXMkh6Oj)
Again really hard to see but the holes I drilled came out really well. Almost right on. Definitely going to end up using a bent up piece of flat steel to mount with on these. The height is right at 2.5" in the front and the second hole behind it is 1.75"
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/s6p6kZ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ips6p6kZj)
Picture of the lowest part of the rack.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/BUF1lp.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idBUF1lpj)
My eye level shot. It looks pretty flat to me.

So now we talk about the bad news.

-Mounting is going to be more difficult than anticipated.

I have considered making the mounts attach to a strip of steel so it effectively sandwiches the roof in between the steel on top and the steel on bottom but I'm not sure that would be any more effective than just making mounts where the fasteners will go.

I have officially decided that my led bar for the front will get mounted under the front bar. I have more than 6" of room before it becomes an obstruction of view with the windshield.

The backup lights I wanted to mount will have to be mounted onto a raised portion I will add on in order to clear the tailgate and make a backstop for cargo.

What kind of nails did you use on the side 4x4mike? I considered a ton of things including e-track railings but I think the nails will end up being the optimal side rail and attachment system.

[Robinhood4x4]

-The rack sits about 3/4" inch above the roof w/ 1 1/2" channel steel so that's within the concept of low profile. If that's too low I have no idea. Definitely would like some experienced opinion here. I would like to leave it as is but I'm not locked to that height.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/yaY5xO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ipyaY5xOj)
The channel steel might be one of those good concept, bad idea type things. Might be going to a set of custom bent flat steel mounts with a small gusset and just making them one at a time by measurement.

I don't think I could fill that by welding. It looks to be more than 1/4 gap although I should have measured lol. I think it's closer to .5

3/4" of clearance is probably fine, but you can test it by propping the rack up on 2x4's and standing on it. Measure the deflection and you'll know if you have enough clearance. However, I wonder if you're going to get wind noise from that gap. Somebody else here, maybe it was sean, had a small gap and had wind noise. I threw mine up on the roof on Sunday, to see how it was, and it too had a slight bit of wind noise, but I'm not sure it's coming from. It could be the 1/4" gap between the box and the roof or maybe the box itself, or something else; I need to do some experimenting once it's painted and mounted up there.

As for the channel, you have a couple options. It's physically possible to fill that gap, but I don't recommend it because you'll need so many passes that you'll end up warping the main rack. Plus, it'll look amateurish.

You can cut off the top leg of the channel and just weld the vertical part to the tube. I think this is the way I would do it. The other way you can go is to put that channel in a vice and whack the top leg with a hammer and bend it down. I like the first way because I don't think the top leg is necessary for strength and it'll look cleaner without it.

[Kryptoroxx]

3/4" of clearance is probably fine, but you can test it by propping the rack up on 2x4's and standing on it. Measure the deflection and you'll know if you have enough clearance. However, I wonder if you're going to get wind noise from that gap. Somebody else here, maybe it was sean, had a small gap and had wind noise. I threw mine up on the roof on Sunday, to see how it was, and it too had a slight bit of wind noise, but I'm not sure it's coming from. It could be the 1/4" gap between the box and the roof or maybe the box itself, or something else; I need to do some experimenting once it's painted and mounted up there.

As for the channel, you have a couple options. It's physically possible to fill that gap, but I don't recommend it because you'll need so many passes that you'll end up warping the main rack. Plus, it'll look amateurish.

You can cut off the top leg of the channel and just weld the vertical part to the tube. I think this is the way I would do it. The other way you can go is to put that channel in a vice and whack the top leg with a hammer and bend it down. I like the first way because I don't think the top leg is necessary for strength and it'll look cleaner without it.

I didn't think of that but I'm going to test it out. Long day of work tomorrow so it might not happen till the weekend. I'm a solid 215 so I think that would effectively test the deflection on a point like that. It is certainly more than what I will load in such a concentrated form.

I didn't really want to fill that with weld either. I think I will end up making my own feet. I have about 4 ft of leftover 3/16 x 1" flat left and I can easily make the feet with the necessary angle and the height I need it to be.

While I am getting better at welding I have to keep in mind that it is much different than wood. Welding is a fusing process that is simply amazing and much stronger.

[4x4mike]

I have no idea what sized nails I used. They are from Home Depot and in a bin where you buy them individually rather than in a box. These pictures will give you an idea of size. They are thick enough I don't get any deflection. The smaller nails on my cargo rack would bend if I really cranked down on them as they are smaller nails.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/Roof%20Rack/DSC07718.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/Roof%20Rack/DSC07721.jpg


FWIW I have less clearance between the bottom of the rack and my roof and it's quiet. I did notice when I put the front piece on my rack I hear the wind going through that section when the sunroof is propped open. Nothing from the back section and nothing touches when the rack is loaded up.

[Kryptoroxx]

I have no idea what sized nails I used. They are from Home Depot and in a bin where you buy them individually rather than in a box. These pictures will give you an idea of size. They are thick enough I don't get any deflection. The smaller nails on my cargo rack would bend if I really cranked down on them as they are smaller nails.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/Roof%20Rack/DSC07718.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/Roof%20Rack/DSC07721.jpg


FWIW I have less clearance between the bottom of the rack and my roof and it's quiet. I did notice when I put the front piece on my rack I hear the wind going through that section when the sunroof is propped open. Nothing from the back section and nothing touches when the rack is loaded up.
I think I have a better idea now thanks. Pretty sure they're a smaller landscaping spike. I have an interesting idea cooking for this that should work but I have to check a couple of things first.

Will have some progress soon I hope. Haven't had time to really do much except get home, shower, play with the kiddo, and sleep.

[Kryptoroxx]

I settled on my mounting system and I'm sure it will work and blend with the rest of the design. Tomorrow is the day.

[Kryptoroxx]

I got 3 mounts done.....

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/14/5dd93e6eed71aa87358b6a9b4110d1eb.jpg

I'm going to do the 4 corner mounts to get the rack mounted but after that I will be doing the other 3 per side. It took me forever to get the angles right and the rack level (or as level as it will get on the 4runner)

[Kryptoroxx]

Lots of work done today but I made it a short day so I could spend some time with the family

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/15/3fd1f7ef7f4794fef967f898262c0768.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/15/ae3a4f87d61682a09b684c1d9648a585.jpg

So the front and rear mounts took a lot of fidgeting to get straight but in the end I ended up making the lower mount off the truck and then tacking the rack to it while it was on the 4runner. The holes match nicely and now I can make the center mounts with very little effort and I can do the front mounts next weekend.

[Seanz0rz]

Looks great!

I am liking that you deleted the roof rails. I will likely do the same since mine were bent in the roll.

[troyboy162]

Thats a great Idea. The stock rails dont distribute the weight very well anyhow. You can sell your stock rack as whole as well. Seems like quite a few 4runners came with the holes but no rack.

[Kryptoroxx]

Thats a great Idea. The stock rails dont distribute the weight very well anyhow. You can sell your stock rack as whole as well. Seems like quite a few 4runners came with the holes but no rack.
Seriously that was the hardest part. I spent 3 hours planning, measuring, and centering the rack deletion....and then that much time again fitting 4 mounts. Now granted there are many ways to skin a pig but I started a few different strategies before settling on what's in the pictures.

It's not so much the cutting of angles as it is the constant changing of angles. There is no constant angle across the whole roof. I ended up cutting square ends and then cutting the angle in after a fitting or two.

[Kryptoroxx]

I don't know how it happened but I cut 4 pieces and they were almost perfect the first time. The rack bolts down for the rear. Now I have to do the fronts. I was going for a sleek type look while still remaining functional and I think I've done fairly well for a first stab at fabricating a large piece. I definitely like working with the 1.5x.5" tubing. It's very strong when rotated on the long side.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/16/316a65381fbfe1cd66e8d218cd962574.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/16/7a7f54523ca2a02a47302425f49ac764.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/16/572de0f233bf4903b5cc427b0f252c3d.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/16/30031d4fe520f235c197274c316b62a1.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Got a little done today. I cut and fit the front feet. I was kind of disappointed that after all the measuring I was off by .25" on. one of the holes I drilled. It still fell within the 1" wide bar but I generally like to have better accuracy than that. Given what I've had to measure accurately some of my holes have been off but most of them drill on target. I played around with the drill press and I found that to get a perfect hole I have to measure a quarter high and an eighth to the left in order for my hole to be perfect. I suppose that's what I get for spending 35 bucks for a drill press lol. It still does help drill holes in steel so it is still worth it.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/17/d2340ccc2f547e24fae1c61dab071aa0.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

Looking good!

[Robinhood4x4]

Are you center punching the location of the holes before drilling?

[Kryptoroxx]

Are you center punching the location of the holes before drilling?
Sadly yes. I chased down the source and I will try to explain but probably fail at explaining.

The drill has a torque twist to it naturally but the allowance for the movement comes from the way the drill is secured to the press frame. There is a horizontal and vertical clamp that is used but there is nothing done to arrest the twisting movement caused by friction with a surface. So as a result it twists down and to the right with the drill bit rotation. I am starting to think it's an eighth down and eighth right as that would be an equal movement but anyway.

The twisting motion is centered around the depth gauge and it is the depth gauge that stops it from rotating further. If I stuck a small piece of metal in there it would stop the rotation but I would not be able to raise or lower the bit.

[Robinhood4x4]

Got it, makes sense.

Looking good, by the way. When do you think you'll be done?

[Kryptoroxx]

Sorry I had to run and then it's been a whirlwind of activity. Things that still need to be done are:

Weld the front 4 mounts (I cut them yesterday)
Weld in the tie downs (bend and cut nails)
Mount the rocketbox and make sure I have 4 beams to mount to (I have 5/8" tube to make mounts from)
Drill and run wiring for lights
Grind all the welds down
Primer/paint (self etching primer and chassis saver paint)
Remount the rack


So the wiring is going to end up being a larger conduit than originally anticipated but it will be a project unto itself. I am going to use a 15 pin bendix military connector and will drill a hole close to the front feet for easier wiring access. I plan on having reverse lights, side lights, and a 40" light bar (eventually), and a few circuits for jic.

All that being said I will probably be done Saturday sometime...hopefully?? Sunday definitely

[Kryptoroxx]

So today in a lucky day I got off at noon, came home, and told the wife I wasn't coming in till dark lol. I stayed true to my word too!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/vX5aAe.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idvX5aAej)
I figured out a method for not getting slag on my windshield and side windows. Sad thing is that it isn't exactly flame proof but....it does work for tacking stuff up. I call that a win.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/Iev5rt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjIev5rtj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/F0wFww.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exF0wFwwj)
Everything all tacked up. Not really thrilled with the gaps that the front had but it ended up working out.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/sygqOi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0sygqOij)
Let the grinding begin!! I started grinding at roughly 1330
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/a6CX6I.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eya6CX6Ij)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/toa2vw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idtoa2vwj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/905/dejG82.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p5dejG82j)
I finished at 1700. I took the liberty of bevelling the edges where I could. I will finish them up with a dremel here before painting. At one point after I turned off the grinder my hands still felt vibration lol. I can whole heatedly vouch for bosch grinders though. I was grinding nearly the whole time and it never even got hot. Most of the welds needed little attention. Some of the welds where there were larger gaps took some more attention but there were no pinholes and it didn't look like there was any cold lap so I'm gonna consider this project a success since I could bolt it to the roof and take off.

So with all good amounts of progress I had a minor setback or design issue. The good news is I have time to figure it out. The bad news is I have to figure it out. The bottom of the rocketbox is not as flat as I thought so I have to either come up with a new mounting area or I have to add some rubber feet to the front and rear of the rocket box so it doesn't flex itself to pieces over time.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/l9rcfb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0l9rcfbj)
Rear of the box
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/2jlulr.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hj2jlulrj)
Middle
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/aNGV2H.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1aNGV2Hj)
So it only touches in the middle and really on one side. It lines up with zero of my cross members directly as well in its current position. Also the actual mounts are not even close vertically as you can see where the holes are.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/pR07Aq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idpR07Aqj)
This is the position I want it in from the top which actually gives quite a nice area for cargo junk on the other side. I don't have to add anything on.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/V5vQQm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exV5vQQmj)
View from the back to show the overhang which is really nothing.

As I see it I need to construct an adapter bracket for the rocketbox. Since I can still lift the rack with one arm weight really isn't an issue but I like the fact that the rack is flat. It allows for the greatest cargo flexibility. The bad part about a bolt on bracket would be the fact that the box is no longer secured with a lock and key. Someone could unbolt it and take off with the whole thing.

I suppose I could use long (like 6 or 7") u-bolts and just run them under the crossbars around the adapter, and through into the box. I am very open to ideas though.

Still to come:
Nails....lots of nails
More welding!
More grinding!
Primer/Paint

It's looking more and more like Sunday. Won't be able to get to this till noon tomorrow. Once I finish this I will be starting the harnesses for the lights above the headliner.

[Robinhood4x4]

Is there anything special about the factory mounting locations of the box, like are they reinforced with steel? I'd think that you could drill some more holes in the box where it touches the rails and reinforce the inside with some flat steel bar. It's hard to tell, but I think you could then run a bolt up through the rails where the head would be exposed, but the locknut on the inside of the box wouldn't be so thieves wouldn't be able to unscrew the bolt.

Alternatively, you can make an adapter like this. The bolts go in from the top and screw into the rails so you'll need to weld in nuts to the bottom side of the rails.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-6d9KkBs/0/L/i-6d9KkBs-L.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Is there anything special about the factory mounting locations of the box, like are they reinforced with steel? I'd think that you could drill some more holes in the box where it touches the rails and reinforce the inside with some flat steel bar. It's hard to tell, but I think you could then run a bolt up through the rails where the head would be exposed, but the locknut on the inside of the box wouldn't be so thieves wouldn't be able to unscrew the bolt.

Alternatively, you can make an adapter like this. The bolts go in from the top and screw into the rails so you'll need to weld in nuts to the bottom side of the rails.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-6d9KkBs/0/L/i-6d9KkBs-L.jpg

Sadly there isn't anything except plastic anywhere on the inside. I just don't want to make the box bend when I bolt it down. The plastic is already about 18 years old lol.

The pictures at night didn't help any either I'll bet. It's kinda tricky to picture but the box is kind of like a slightly flattened banana on the bottom. The middle is flat but the two ends rise for aerodynamics.

I like the idea of reinforcement inside and then making a type of cradle for the box. That shouldn't be too hard.

This is waiting for after the trip as I don't think I will have anything up there except the fuel can, wood, and a waste can.

I've got a lot of cutting, bending, and welding to do lol.....and then wiring.

[Kryptoroxx]

So I did a little shopping and thinking while watching my daughter and I came up with a few ideas that are worth mulling over at least.

So my idea is to use the outside bar to put two u-bolts in the middle section where the folds that go width wise are. I know those are used for rigidity but no idea what they're actually called lol.

The other two will go on the diagonal bar on the belly bottom of the box. For securing purposes it's not a whole lot but wait!! There's more!!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/901/aNGV2H.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p1aNGV2Hj)

Where the box starts to lift from the bars I am going to find a place where I can put a couple of rubber feet to help support and then run a bar of reinforcement on the inside. That should keep the load both secure and balanced while in travel.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/2jlulr.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hj2jlulrj)
Just illustrating where the feet will go
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/l9rcfb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0l9rcfbj)

I know the original mounts did not include stuff like the rubber feet for some more support but Yakima probably didn't test out an 18yr old rocket box on washboard either. The rubber feet I found are of various heights and are usually used in speaker cabinets. I figure if I get them a hair long (no more than 1/8") then I won't have to worry about rocking front to rear breaking the box in the center.

U-bolts
http://www.amazon.com/National-N222-356-3-Inch-Square-Plate/dp/B00D8G5DBE/ref=sr_1_52?ie=UTF8&qid=1424541927&sr=8-52&keywords=u+bolt+square

Rubber feet
http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Elcom-9145-Rubber-Cabinet-Foot/dp/B00AEBHXY6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1424542676&sr=8-4&keywords=speaker+cabinet+feet

[Robinhood4x4]

Sounds like it should work.

[Kryptoroxx]

After I was able to work on the rack today I got a fair amount done. Not too much left to do but clean up some welds and paint this sucker.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/912/Ekd0U0.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pcEkd0U0j)
Once I made a system for bending the nails I was able to get them almost identical to each other which is nice. I did 40 nails. I used 18 lol. Since they were 10 cents apiece and Home Depot is 40 minutes away I figure I'm still on top of the margin. I will find a way to use them sometime.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/911/KprPDO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pbKprPDOj)
These things welded so easily I was surprised.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/Jw2KbP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0Jw2KbPj)
I don't know why everyone bashes on the harbor freight magnet squares. I think they're handy and it made getting the nails in at an angle a breeze.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/dozCwF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eydozCwFj)
I am still not sure how it happened so I will file it in blessings but the way the measurements worked out was.....spooky. I didn't have to re-mark and I didn't do any math in advance. I just said well the nails are 5.25" and I want a 4" gap....and it worked out.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/NDpSSI.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9NDpSSIj)
Kinda finished....I think it came out fairly well. Thanks to the magnets the nails are at the same angle and height for mounting. They aren't mathematically perfect....but not many will be able to tell either.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/SCzcnq.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjSCzcnqj)
Back to the rocketbox problem. This time the pics are during the day with the tie downs mounted.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/cYLQ7t.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjcYLQ7tj)
This is the back's height off the rail.http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/hJuwVi.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/iphJuwVij)
This is the front.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/633/ngfjpb.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlngfjpbj)
And a side profile.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/forIJk.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exforIJkj)
It occurred to me while I was looking at the rocket box that there is no way to tie anything down with the rocketbox sitting on the rack. So I quickly added a center bar just for that purpose.

I suppose that I could use some of those nails on the cross bars for tie downs going lengthwise.

Tomorrow is a tiny bit more welding, grinding, and we are going to start painting. Hopefully I can get started on the wiring harnesses for the LED lights as well.

[Kryptoroxx]

CRAPPY WEATHER I SHAKE MY FIST AT YOU!

Seriously of all the days to turn cold and rain it had to be the day I was primering.....grrrr

I made progress anyway and here it is. Trying to get all the little slag balls off was frustrating to say the least because it's like that gopher game. Just as you think it's over....there's more annoying little critters to bop on the head.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/ZNoE7j.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exZNoE7jj)

I decided that I wanted to add a few more tie downs since I plan on putting led lights on the front and rear. I brought the total to 26 lol.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/538/dBnjC9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/eydBnjC9j)

Welding Finite. I am done and done.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/537/AxwEET.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exAxwEETj)

Self etching primer after putting some of that Marine Clean stuff on and scrubbing to get all the oil off. Worked pretty well.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/YBvCR2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p8YBvCR2j)

The rusty metal primer is some of the toughest primer I have found for metal imo. I happened to have a can floating around so I tossed it on after I ran out of self-etching. All I have to have is some primer on the metal for the chassis saver paint to work.

That's all that's left. Well that and mounting everything up. I am waiting on the leds and wiring till a later date when I can determine what my needs are versus my wants. I need to get this rig out on the trail instead of working on it all the time lol.

[4x4mike]

Wow, those are some big nails.

I find I get more slag and spatter on acute joints and areas around pieces like the nails. Bummer part is that they are harder to remove than if they were on spots like butt joints. I know running MIG would take care of a lot of this for my case, along with better technique. Before I go to town with a grinder I hit the spots I can with a slag hammer/chipper. Sharpen the end and it will knock off most of the spatter. I then prefer a small Roloc disc as it's abrasive enough to remove and smooth without taking off too much metal. If it still needs more I use a sanding disc on the grinder.

Since you have a trip coming up just run the rack and actually use it. Afterwards you'll know what more you need and how well your setup works.

[Kryptoroxx]

Wow, those are some big nails.

I find I get more slag and spatter on acute joints and areas around pieces like the nails. Bummer part is that they are harder to remove than if they were on spots like butt joints. I know running MIG would take care of a lot of this for my case, along with better technique. Before I go to town with a grinder I hit the spots I can with a slag hammer/chipper. Sharpen the end and it will knock off most of the spatter. I then prefer a small Roloc disc as it's abrasive enough to remove and smooth without taking off too much metal. If it still needs more I use a sanding disc on the grinder.

Since you have a trip coming up just run the rack and actually use it. Afterwards you'll know what more you need and how well your setup works.

Mig would definitely help but honestly I'm fine with running flux. It is more cleanup but I'm not renting a tank either which is kinda pricy. I have gotten better with technique but what really helps imo is making very good precise cuts. If it dry fits well it will bead easily. Gaps are where I start having a less than smooth bead. Personally I do the "c" method for corners and butt welds. I stich for verticals and circle seems to work for overhead but I tent to shy away from overhead if I can. I need to burn hot on overhead and slag just doesn't feel good on the skin.

I suppose I could just mount it and go. I hadn't really thought about that. It's dry enough I wouldn't have to worry about rusting. I will probably just top coat it black today and worry about good paint later.

I tried to get the same nails as you did ha ha. These were .10 apiece at home depot. I had to burn them in on at the 4 setting (125 amps?) with the hobart. They are definitely on there for good.

[Seanz0rz]

Welders at work use medium quality putty knives that have a full tang. They scrape and hammer on the back of them to remove the spatter. Works really well actually.

[4x4mike]

While MIG would help I'm in the same boat as you. To make it most cost effective I'd have to go with a big tank and I don't really have the room to store one that big for how little it would actually be used. I've grown to be fine with the flux especially since I'm just doing hobby type welding.

If you spend a lot of time and effort rushing a paint job and find you have work to do it's that much harder. Little areas for tabs and such aren't bad but if you find you've got some flex or vibration you need to brace you'll be stripping a lot of paint. The thicker you put it on the worse it looks covered up.

I like the spray and brush on Rustoleum Hammer stuff, the name escapes me. It's super thick so it lasts plus it goes on everything. I think the only two things I've used primer on for the 4Runner, since I've had it, are my bumper and my axle housing. If I think I need a base layer for whatever reason I use $1 Walmart black and then top with hammer. My sliders get a work out and I've got years of layered paint. When I get in the rock it chips of and leaves a divot from the missing paint. A light sanding then brushed on hammer and it's back in business.

[paddlenbike]

Nice work. I can already see that I will be the only guy on UY that has no cool, custom-made roof rack. Where is the darn :headbang: emoticon when I need it?

[Kryptoroxx]

Nice work. I can already see that I will be the only guy on UY that has no cool, custom-made roof rack. Where is the darn :headbang: emoticon when I need it?
Appreciate it! It's been quite an experience and my only remaining question is whether to do expanded metal or not. The holes in the rack are kinda big lol.


While MIG would help I'm in the same boat as you. To make it most cost effective I'd have to go with a big tank and I don't really have the room to store one that big for how little it would actually be used. I've grown to be fine with the flux especially since I'm just doing hobby type welding.

If you spend a lot of time and effort rushing a paint job and find you have work to do it's that much harder. Little areas for tabs and such aren't bad but if you find you've got some flex or vibration you need to brace you'll be stripping a lot of paint. The thicker you put it on the worse it looks covered up.

I like the spray and brush on Rustoleum Hammer stuff, the name escapes me. It's super thick so it lasts plus it goes on everything. I think the only two things I've used primer on for the 4Runner, since I've had it, are my bumper and my axle housing. If I think I need a base layer for whatever reason I use $1 Walmart black and then top with hammer. My sliders get a work out and I've got years of layered paint. When I get in the rock it chips of and leaves a divot from the missing paint. A light sanding then brushed on hammer and it's back in business.

I will look into the hammer stuff but just so it doesn't look like trash I have a can of plain black rustoleum I will lay on top.
Sliders are probably going to happen at some point this year but right now I'm not doing wheeling where I know I would need them. I am adding 906 springs to the rear for this next trip. Mine are shot.

[Kryptoroxx]

I couldn't leave it primed so I went with flat black. I will try to get everything bolted down tonight.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/ffd1a48ecb86b2f575a6c03ba32b92f5.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

Looks great! Want to come help me with mine?

[Kryptoroxx]

Sure I'm down. We can work out a weekend if you like. I will say my roof reinforcement plus the feet on my roof rack didn't line up quite as perfectly as I would have liked......but they all went in without serious binding do I'm happy.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/4d60d6e3c26ce5dbd513685e3797ba07.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/c52bb534304cc6fd341dd4750808365d.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/24/cbdb3c573ed28b39e2636f9294b4bc73.jpg

The paint job is atrocious lol. It looks like I taught my daughter how to spray paint and let her at it.

[Seanz0rz]

That looks really nice!

I am still debating reusing half of my old rack or just starting fresh.

[Kryptoroxx]

Thanks man. You all helped with the design so a lot of the credit goes to the suggestions that you guys had. I am really excited to get this out in the trails.

As for your rack sean I think you had a good looking rack. It was functional and sleek. However I understand the desire to come up with something different as well.

I was really really happy with how easy cutting and welding the angles went with my outer frame. It gave me a very straight base to work with and it didn't warp hardly at all.

I have one bar in the center that is a 16th of center and it's bugging the crap out of me. It may get fixed and it may not. I really want to put the interior back in.

[Seanz0rz]

Don't bother for 1/16. At work, being within .063" is a good day.

[Kryptoroxx]

Don't bother for 1/16. At work, being within .063" is a good day.
This is very anti ocd lol

[Seanz0rz]

When you make (very secure) boxes, 0.0005" does not make a difference.

[Robinhood4x4]

What would drive your OCD worse is seeing the step in the paint where you had to re-weld. Anywhere the paint was ground off (or sanded off), rewelded, and repainted will show up worse than being 1/16" off.

[Kryptoroxx]

What would drive your OCD worse is seeing the step in the paint where you had to re-weld. Anywhere the paint was ground off (or sanded off), rewelded, and repainted will show up worse than being 1/16" off.
This is also a good point lol. I'm fairly pleased so far. It doesn't make much noise although it certainly isn't silent. It does not rattle at all and there is no looseness to the fitting either. It's ready for action.

[Kryptoroxx]

This is also a good point lol. I'm fairly pleased so far. It doesn't make much noise although it certainly isn't silent. It does not rattle at all and there is no looseness to the fitting either. It's ready for action.
I have to retract the doesn't make much noise. It howls pretty good in side winds. I discovered this with the front starting to move into the desert.

Here are some night pics of the lights though.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/3b7b20830150a9c3503e718666d9fbc5.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/4c3a42d1bda2233359b237a2b3cb37fd.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/c82cf9a8917e803ba3e96a55d85cdf1f.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

Looks great!

I got rid of my noises (at least as best I could) by using tape to dam up areas where I thought the noise might be coming from. Then I filled those spots with thick weatherstripping from Home Depot. It probably wouldn't have lasted more than a couple years, but it was easy to install.

[Kryptoroxx]

Looks great!

I got rid of my noises (at least as best I could) by using tape to dam up areas where I thought the noise might be coming from. Then I filled those spots with thick weatherstripping from Home Depot. It probably wouldn't have lasted more than a couple years, but it was easy to install.
Pretty sure it comes from all the nails lol. The 4runner isn't very aerodynamic anyway but I might try taping a valence to see if it helps.

[Kryptoroxx]

Ok I've had the chance to use the rack multiple times and for what I've had to carry it's been great. All of it has been long pieces of metal or wood. Easy to strap down, safe for the road (the 4x8 sheet of mdf was a little sketch because the nails stick up beyond the level of the rack), and most of all solid. No noises or flex to speak of besides the wind lol. This thing howls like there's a straw stuck in my gas tank and it's getting sucked out.

My solution?

Add more metal. That's right after mulling it over the expanded metal will both add strength and versatility to the rack. I'm also going to work on a faring location to see if I can nail down this wind problem. The rack is low enough of a profile that I can make the front end into a sunk basket of perforated metal so I can carry some stuff out of the way (like straps and stuff) and then the rest of the rack can be covered in a large diamond expanded metal so I can attach small stuff, my rocket box, and other items worry free. I don't think I will ever be removing this sucker again....lol.

[Seanz0rz]

I'm telling ya, get some blue tape and go to town on where you think it might be whistling from. Mine was between the roof and the cross bar since they were so close together.

[Kryptoroxx]

I'm telling ya, get some blue tape and go to town on where you think it might be whistling from. Mine was between the roof and the cross bar since they were so close together.
I like that idea. I was just going to use cardboard and some duct tape.

[Kryptoroxx]

So a little progress today although not as much as I'd like. I discovered where the howl was coming from.

It makes sense now that I think about it. Since the rack extends to the edge of the windshield it is on the leading edge of the roof so there's two directions of airflow to consider. Straight on and diagonal from the windshield. My rack sits where those airflows intersect or at least those nails do on the trailing front edge of the rack.

Long story short I guess I'm going to make a storage locker of sorts up there or something. The material has to be solid to stop the whistle.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/09/4906a37ca951226ebd3d63457a429825.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Well I think I got rod of the whistle. Decided a box up front would just make more noise especially since I do not have the capability to make curved surfaces easily.

So I slapped the expanded metal up there and welded everything up and bam...no more noise.

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I used some more of that hammered paint. I really like that stuff. Tough scratch and easy to spray.

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[4x4mike]

Hammer paint holds up really well. I always have a can or two in the cabinet as it's so useful and actually lasts.

The expanded steel looks good and glad to hear you got rid of the noise. Will you still be able to mount the Rocket Box?

[Kryptoroxx]

Hammer paint holds up really well. I always have a can or two in the cabinet as it's so useful and actually lasts.

The expanded steel looks good and glad to hear you got rid of the noise. Will you still be able to mount the Rocket Box?
Oh yeah easy as pie and I can choose anywhere on the rack that happens to suit the load configuration as well. I stopped to think about shovels and stuff as I would hate to take the rack back down. I can carry stuff like that elsewhere. The roof rack doesn't seem to be a good place to carry those anyway. Placing solid heavy objects up high like that can lead to injury, broken windows, and the laziness of not wanting to put it back up there.

I am going to have the hammered stuff as my go to paint for stuff I build unless it has to be coated some other way.

[Kryptoroxx]

I will say I forgot one thing and I noticed it when it was raining. I forgot to run the bolts with silicone when I put them back in. Oh well. Easy fix. There isn't a lot of rain here. Some of the Allen keys were stripping a little since I have to use a round head tool on them.

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[Kryptoroxx]

Full length racks are awesome! I've put all kinds of stuff up there that I would normally need a trailer for. I still haven't added lights and I still plan to do a light bar up top but a lot of things are on hold till I graduate.

I have been thinking about designing a quick release (perhaps with some aero feet!) for the whole rack so I can take it off when it's not needed or if I need access to the roof (like how I need to touch up the Monstaliner under it).

It is still very solid though and very useful though. Very little road noise but I do suspect that it has robbed as much as 2-3mpg from the truck. It's of the reasons I was thinking about a quick release.

In other news I have 3 semesters left and I'll have a BA in Economics. More importantly though I have a couple of businesses interested in my graduation date. Not sure where I'm going to end up but it will be a better place lol.

[4x4mike]

2-3 mpg! Mine doesn't extend past the sunroof, which I always have propped open so I think my rack doesn't rob anything from mine.

[Kryptoroxx]

2-3 mpg! Mine doesn't extend past the sunroof, which I always have propped open so I think my rack doesn't rob anything from mine.
I honestly think it does. Either that or I have some other issues that haven't thrown a code yet. I had a check engine light come on for a second or two the other day but I haven't cleaned my o2 sensors in a while either

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