4th gen roof rack

[Robinhood4x4]

I've been threatening to build a roof rack for more than 5 years now and I'm getting tired of lugging around my big box of recovery gear in the back so finally, design and fabrication begins. With my 2nd gen 4runner I built a rear bumper with a tool box but I probably won't get around to building one of those for a while. So this time, I'm going to build a low profile box that will sit flush with the top of a new roof rack. Also, for the past year I've had a couple LED backup lights sitting in my drawer so it's time to mount those too.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-QR8wmpH/0/L/i-QR8wmpH-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-2fNQfSH/0/L/i-2fNQfSH-L.jpg

The front is to the right in the pictures and the box is shown without the cover, otherwise it wouldn't look very exciting. I wanted this thing to be low profile sitting flush with the top of the factory rails but with a 4" tall box, that's not going to happen. It'll end up being a couple inches above it. Also, the lights are 5" tall so they'll be a little taller than the rack itself.

The main rails of the factory rack use a channel that allows the cross beams to slide back and forth. I'll use these channels to interface with the 4 vertical brackets you see on the sides. Very simple, just 2 bolts at each corner. Total weight without the box is 23 lbs. The box will be made from aluminum since I have a friend who has a sheetmetal brake and can tig Al for me. The rack itself will be steel because I can do that work and I don't want to bother him too much.

For now, I'm still trying to figure out what kind of latches to use for the cover of the box. Ideally, they'd be draw latches that snug the cover against some seals, but also low profile and lockable. The last requirement is the hard part because I don't want to use padlocks because they'll clang around and make noise.

I'll probably get material sometime in the coming week and then start fabrication in 2 weeks.

[Robinhood4x4]

I got some work done on the roof rack over the last few weeks. Although it might not look like much, it took me all day to cut the sheetmetal and draw the guide lines for bending. To cut the aluminum I used a jigsaw and then a hand file to smooth it out. Here's where I start bragging because I'm impressed with how well it came out :o. Over the whole 41" length the cuts are probably out of straightness by less than 1/16". Every angle is almost perfectly square and the length measurements are almost perfect. It almost looks like it was cut with a sheetmetal shear.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-GbMLK37/0/L/i-GbMLK37-L.jpg

You may be wondering why there are so many pieces. In addition to the main box, I'm also making a small one for "dog bags" so I don't have to put them in the passenger compartment. The other set is for my friend. In chatting with him I mentioned I could make one for his pathfinder, so I'm making two roof racks. This coming weekend I'll head over to my friend's house to bend the sheetmetal and the tubing. Then after that, I'll start welding.

[Kryptoroxx]

Nice!! I like the design and it's simple. Sounds like your mounting system is fairly easy

I've been meaning to look up how a press brake works as I will want one when I make the lower storage for the bbq.

As for the locking system maybe you can use a padlock. Just use a short rubber bungee bolted on either side so it holds the lock tight to the mounting surface. Then you can use whatever level hasp or closing mechanism you like.

[4x4mike]

Much attention to detail Steve. I like that about your projects.

As for a lock you might want to look into lock kits for tool boxes or gun cabinets. I know Homak sells a nice cylinder lock I had looked at for a project once. Another thing to consider is a lock and latch from a truck tool box. Like Weathergard or Delta. They are typically pretty nice and more weather resistant.

Link https://www.google.com/search?q=weatherguard+toolbox+lock+latch&biw=1280&bih=939&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=kVvGVNmvM4q1oQSDuoCoAg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg

[Seanz0rz]

I vote medeco can locks, but I deal with those every day. Cheaper alternatives are Best and Chicago.

[Robinhood4x4]

Anything rubber won't last more than one summer here in AZ and I don't want to have to replace a bungie cord all the time, but that is my backup plan. My friend and I have pretty much scoured the internet for latches and have possibly found one from a company called Sierra Pacific, but they don't sell to the public. However, we did find an industrial hardware store locally that can purchase from them so we're finding out about prices.

[Kryptoroxx]

This caught my eye in a picture and I thought you might be interested.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Lock-Magnum-Security-Lock-and-Guarded-Hasp-M736XKADCCSEN/202260772

It certainly has potential.

[Robinhood4x4]

Thanks but way too big. The box is only 4" high and the lock is 5". Plus it would effectively triple the cost of whole project since I need two.

[Robinhood4x4]

Ok, I made a lot of progress this weekend. On saturday I went over to my friend's house so he could bend the aluminum, weld it, and bend some steel tube. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures of the sheet metal being bent, but I did get some of the tube bender.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-stSqhJC/0/L/i-stSqhJC-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-fJLfQPj/0/L/i-fJLfQPj-L.jpg

I think my friend hammered the joint together but this is how straight I had to get the edges after cutting it with a jigsaw and filing it flat. Any gaps make it much harder to weld with a tig.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-h66Gg9d/0/L/i-h66Gg9d-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-RTdzLhs/0/L/i-RTdzLhs-L.jpg

All done.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z7x8Jnv/0/L/i-Z7x8Jnv-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-VmptVRZ/0/L/i-VmptVRZ-L.jpg

Today, I got a little bit of a late start since I had to wait around until 10a to do some shopping at Costco, but once I got back I didn't stop until 9pm. I got the two halves of the bent steel welded together and then the fish mouthed center support was added.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-dFBsd9n/0/L/i-dFBsd9n-L.jpg

Speaking of fish mouth, I don't have a fish mouthing jig so I did it the old fashioned way with an angle grinder.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-sbLw8D9/0/L/i-sbLw8D9-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-VcBWqzh/0/L/i-VcBWqzh-L.jpg

Next were the straps to hold the box down. The trick to bending flat stock in a vice is to make sure it is square with the vise jaws.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-nRV9Fkj/0/L/i-nRV9Fkj-L.jpg

Here it is 80% done. The next 10% should go fast, but the last 10% is always the slowest and hardest to get done.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-mp4mdBM/0/L/i-mp4mdBM-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-c2nNNBP/0/L/i-c2nNNBP-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-Db7zcXJ/0/L/i-Db7zcXJ-L.jpg

Things left to do:

Make supports for the backup lights and dog box.
Weld on the supports that bolt to the factory rails.
Attach the piano hinge to the box and cover for the main box and dog box.
Pick up the latches whenever they come in and attach them.
Paint the frame.
Bolt on the boxes.

Was there some kind of a football game today? :o

[4x4mike]

Great work Steve. It looks very clean and straight. Any plans for tie downs? Or sides of sorts? Any other details like antenna mount/tab, additional lights, possible fairing tabs? It appears that the rack mounts with the box to the rear. Tabs here and there might be easiest before mounting and paint.

[Robinhood4x4]

No tie downs or sides. My ratchet straps fit around the 1" outer frame so that's going to be my tie down. And for sides...I've never seen the advantage of having sides since the ratchet straps hold everything in place pretty well. The only thing I might do is add one more 1/2" cross bar to reinforce the longitudinal 1/2" bars, plus, where they cross will provide another tie down point.

[4x4mike]

I hear ya. My rack and shelf have bent nails for tie downs, no sides. I was just trying to picture it on top of your rig.

I was thinking about you today and all kinds of questions came up.
-Do you still have your 2nd gen?
-What ever happened with your friends FJ40 project?
-Did you get around to modding your 10-22?

[Kryptoroxx]

Well done!! Very well thought out. Looking Forward To Seeing It mounted.

[Robinhood4x4]

Here's a teaser that addresses almost everything, including what the rack looks like on the truck. I have to get ready for work now...

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-fwG7Mch/0/L/i-fwG7Mch-L.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

I like it! The way the box is situated you could even cook up some kind of fairing if the rack ends up making noise.

I haven't been able to get a lick of work done on mine. Busy week and with everything going on even my weekend is shot. I won't be making the hammers this year either.

[4x4mike]

Ha! Awesome, thanks. So does the old girl get out much?

[Robinhood4x4]

I hear ya. My rack and shelf have bent nails for tie downs, no sides. I was just trying to picture it on top of your rig.

I was thinking about you today and all kinds of questions came up.
-Do you still have your 2nd gen?
-What ever happened with your friends FJ40 project?
-Did you get around to modding your 10-22?

Ok, since I've been in this building mood I've been pretty busy lately so it's been hard to update this thread. Once I get into these moods I end up work from morning until 9 or 10p...it's just too much fun!

So yes, I do still have the old 2nd gen but unfortunately I only drive it about once a month to keep it running. Last week, however, I drove it every day for 3-4 days to get it back into shape for emissions testing and wouldn't you know it, the battery dies on me at work. I can't complain too much though, considering I got 7 years out of the optima blue top.

My friends FJ project has been stalled for the past few years. I'm actually very disappointed in it because it's now in pieces and I have a feeling he won't ever get it back together. I should have known better because he has a short attention span and once he gets bored with one toy he moves on to another. Hopefully one day he'll get back into so I can help him get it back on the road. I don't care if he sells it afterward, but to destroy a classic is a terrible thing to do.

I'll update the 10/22 thread, but it's done for now because I've discovered the joys of an AR 22.

[Robinhood4x4]

The other day I stopped by the steel place because I figured out the plates I cut for the mounts were .25" too short for the box. It's hard to tell how high I needed to make it since the roof is curved. While I was there, I noticed these pre-made tabs that looked like they would fit in the rail slot. What do you know, they fit perfectly and I saved a bunch of time not having to cut flat stock and drilling holes. I had some 1/4-20 nuts laying around so I welded those to the tab and called them done.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-JDNW9F6/0/L/i-JDNW9F6-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-sWjRtSS/0/L/i-sWjRtSS-L.jpg

Locating the mount plates to the frame took a lot longer than I thought it would. What I ended up doing was bolting the plates to the rails and then tacking the frame right in place on top of the 4runner. Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of this.

Next, I made the mounts for the backup lights. The holes are for the wiring and I'll end up siliconing the wires in place.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-6RQ6SmT/0/L/i-6RQ6SmT-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-LCZ2tqD/0/L/i-LCZ2tqD-L.jpg

Because of the low clearance between the rack and the roof, I welded the box bolts to the rack and ground them down flush.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-8m2pjBv/0/L/i-8m2pjBv-L.jpg

And here's the finished product.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-CXSMn5g/0/L/i-CXSMn5g-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-TX2BrkB/0/L/i-TX2BrkB-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-4wPMRSG/0/L/i-4wPMRSG-L.jpg

And lastly, I think we found the perfect latches and they ended up being slightly less than $10 each, out the door. (By the way, I'm totally impressed with this picture I took)
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-DJ2h73s/0/L/i-DJ2h73s-L.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Looks great!

That pic of the lock should be in their catalog.

[Robinhood4x4]

That pic of the lock should be in their catalog.

I know, right! :cool:

[Robinhood4x4]

So after more than 100 man hours I'm 99.9% done! Finally! I spent the past week prepping, painting, wiring, soldering, heat shrinking, and box finishing. This project took way longer than I thought it would...I figured 1 weekend, maybe 2 and I'd call it good.

Ok, here we go.

Here's the finished box. The foam I got from the trash bin at work, but I think it's a little too thin.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-FS7dQnp/0/L/i-FS7dQnp-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-4C8Swsn/0/L/i-4C8Swsn-L.jpg

This is the original box that I kept in the cargo area and all the stuff that went inside it.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-Qzgw374/0/L/i-Qzgw374-L.jpg

Obviously, the air compressor and water won't fit and the first aid kit will remain in the truck so it doesn't get too hot. It'll be interesting to see how hot it gets in the box during the summer here in AZ.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-zqBn3pn/0/L/i-zqBn3pn-L.jpg

Here are the T-nuts I made for the rail. It looks dang near factory.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-HNjMLBD/0/L/i-HNjMLBD-L.jpg

I ended up getting an ON-OFF-ON switch from OTRATTW. http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-REAR-ROOF-LIGHTS-ROCKER-ONLY-VVPZCRR-1A4.html

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-zSLBxZ5/0/L/i-zSLBxZ5-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-L23sbn5/0/L/i-L23sbn5-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-DBR57Lk/0/L/i-DBR57Lk-L.jpg

It's wired so that the down position will activate the rear lights only when in reverse and the red switch LED will illuminate. The center position is completely off. The up position is manually on and the green and red switch lights illuminate. It's also always hot so it doesn't need the key in the ACC position.

Finally, the finished product:
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-wXxzhNq/0/L/i-wXxzhNq-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-6QbGn6x/0/L/i-6QbGn6x-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-68JVpjb/0/L/i-68JVpjb-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-mQfLpqS/0/L/i-mQfLpqS-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-vR5vPQD/0/L/i-vR5vPQD-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-FxM3cTG/0/L/i-FxM3cTG-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-K7Q8F84/0/L/i-K7Q8F84-L.jpg



Now for the 0.9% work left to do.

I'm not quite sure what to do for wire management. These pictures are a little old because I have since fully encased all the wiring in split loom tube, so don't be alarmed. Anybody have any ideas on how to restrain the wires? For the wiring on the frame, I'm thinking of just adhesive ziptie pads. For the rack, I can't do that because they're plastic which won't hold up to the sun, not to mention the adhesive in the sun and rain. For up there, I'm thinking of stainless steel safety wire just wrapped around the rack and wires. Any suggestions?

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-NjPGJCC/0/L/i-NjPGJCC-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-27Nf3Ls/0/L/i-27Nf3Ls-L.jpg

Oh, and I didn't put the dog box up there yet because I still have some finishing to do on the sheet metal.

[Seanz0rz]

For the rack, use SS zip ties. They will look the part and keep the wire secure.

[Kryptoroxx]

Standing ovation for you!! Looks very clean and the design makes a nice addition to the runner.

[paddlenbike]

Steve, as always, looks very professional!

[4x4mike]

Would you entertain the idea of running the wire through the interior? I'm not sure where you tapped power but running the wire down the kick panel, under the door trims, behind the rear quarter panel plastic to the back is pretty easy. My first go runs with coax was done this way and for the most part I just pushed the wire under the plastic without removing the plastic.

I'm not sure if you mentioned it earlier but how to the wires make it to the roof? if you run the wire to the rear inside, then up the D pillar you can snake it through the door or drill a small hole to exit right near the lights. Your exposed wire/loom will be very short and probably not even need to be tied down. Did you run wire through the tube between the lights? If so this cleans it up as well.

Most of my electronics are powered from a Blue Sea block under the stereo. My rock lights for example run from the block, under the center console on top of the tranny tunnel and out through the shifter hole in the body. The lights are all over but the main wire I loomed and zip tied to the cable housing of the parking brake all the way to the rear axle, then over the spare and I was at the back. It looks almost factory and is up out of the way. This method reduced the amount of drilling and sealing had I run it a different way.

[Robinhood4x4]

Thanks all.

SS zipties sound good...I'll have to price them out.

The wires go through the firewall grommet and then along the frame rail, but now that you mention it, it probably wouldn't be too hard to route it somewhere else and ziptie them. However, at this point, I'm burned out and don't want to do much more work on it. Maybe later.

This is how it's routed for now, but it might change later.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-cSRcQGv/0/L/i-cSRcQGv-L.jpg

And here's the schematic.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-cfWr8RS/0/L/i-cfWr8RS-L.jpg

[Robinhood4x4]

Update: I've tried a few things to cut down on the wind noise and have found a solution.

My thinking is that the noise is coming from the one lateral cross member right in the middle of the thing. It's not the box because I've test driven it without the box and the wind noise is still there. So, to smooth out the turbulent flow I mocked up a laminar flow inducing co-planar platen. Or in other words, I duct taped a big sheet of cardboard to the top of the roof rack. Actually, it only covered about 10 inches aft of the cross member.

At freeway speeds, it seemed to make a difference so I went back to the garage and duct taped more cardboard to the front of the cross member. Back to the freeway. On the on ramp at 50 mph, it seemed quieter yet. Then 55 mph, then 6...fooomp! I hear the cardboard rip off. Dang it, that was a good piece of cardboard too.

About a month went by and I was too lazy to work on it anymore, until yesterday. Yesterday, I thought about it and because of more laziness I decided I didn't want to attach aluminum sheet to the rack because that would mean I'd have to remove the roof rack so I can gain access to the bottom for drilling and tapping. Instead, I went with the fairing idea.

That was a lot easier since I only had to drill and cut a few things. Here it is, works like a charm. I can hear a little buffeting up there, but much better than before. Plus, I think it completes the look of the rack, something was missing before.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-SK99DWN/0/L/i-SK99DWN-L.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

Update: I've tried a few things to cut down on the wind noise and have found a solution.

My thinking is that the noise is coming from the one lateral cross member right in the middle of the thing. It's not the box because I've test driven it without the box and the wind noise is still there. So, to smooth out the turbulent flow I mocked up a laminar flow inducing co-planar platen. Or in other words, I duct taped a big sheet of cardboard to the top of the roof rack. Actually, it only covered about 10 inches aft of the cross member.

At freeway speeds, it seemed to make a difference so I went back to the garage and duct taped more cardboard to the front of the cross member. Back to the freeway. On the on ramp at 50 mph, it seemed quieter yet. Then 55 mph, then 6...fooomp! I hear the cardboard rip off. Dang it, that was a good piece of cardboard too.

About a month went by and I was too lazy to work on it anymore, until yesterday. Yesterday, I thought about it and because of more laziness I decided I didn't want to attach aluminum sheet to the rack because that would mean I'd have to remove the roof rack so I can gain access to the bottom for drilling and tapping. Instead, I went with the fairing idea.

That was a lot easier since I only had to drill and cut a few things. Here it is, works like a charm. I can hear a little buffeting up there, but much better than before. Plus, I think it completes the look of the rack, something was missing before.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-SK99DWN/0/L/i-SK99DWN-L.jpg
Glad you have been able to cut down on the noise with yours. I have not been so lucky with mine. I think it might be one of those things with having a full length rack lol. I have thought about a fairing at the first crossmember though.

[Jaydee914]

I had a lot of wind noise with my rack and found a couple of solutions. Similar to Robinhood, I used a piece of styrene between the front of my rack and the first cross bar. I have a mesh rack and simply covered that entire section, and the noise is gone. What also helps is to look at your side rails and find the small arrows. If you can move the front of the rack back to this point, your noise should be gone - tougher with full-length racks, of course.

[Robinhood4x4]

The roof rack works.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-nLDxRqn/0/L/i-nLDxRqn-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-KZ6jMbN/0/L/i-KZ6jMbN-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-HCSwqJX/0/L/i-HCSwqJX-L.jpg

[4x4mike]

Nice load you've got there. I was able to take my Fish Cat 4 out for a spin yesterday. It's a similar float with the large foam pieces which I prefer. I like being a little higher for casting and it's a plus when the water is cold.

[Robinhood4x4]

You fish?! Where were you all those years ago when we did the YT mammoth trip? I was the only one out there fishing.

Prior to this tube, I had a Caddis navigator IV that I used for years, but it finally got some holes in the tubes so I used that as an excuse to get a new one. I liked that tube because it was really light and compact. This new one also has some big foam for the seat and the back rest which is good and bad. The thing doesn't squish down as compact as my old one and it probably weighs twice as much. But it does keep me out of the water more.

[4x4mike]

Yep. I'd say it's about 50/50 fly and spinning. I do enjoy some solo float tubing but with the kids I've been doing a lot of crank baiting. Both kids have had poles since the age of one and by two were able to kind of cast. They are now 3 and 6 and have it down. Their attention spans are shorter than mine so it's just messing around kind of fishing but with water outside of our door it's a quick fun activity.

On Monday the boy and I headed up to some higher lakes in the South Lake Tahoe area and enjoyed some dirt roads and quiet lakes.

[boyfester]

I had a lot of wind noise with my rack and found a couple of solutions. Similar to Robinhood, I used a piece of styrene between the front of my rack and the first cross bar. I have a mesh rack and simply covered that entire section, and the noise is gone. What also helps is to look at your side rails and find the small arrows. If you can move the front of the rack back to this point, your noise should be gone - tougher with full-length racks, of course.

Can you take a picture of the styrene that you're talking about? I can't see it in any of the videos that I shot at Cleghorn since your light bar is in the front. I get quite a bit of wind noise at highway speeds with the Yakima rack even with the plastic dam in the front.

[Jaydee914]

Yeah, I'll take a picture today and post it for you.

[Robinhood4x4]

One more reason for having a flat roof rack! You never know when you're going to have to help a friend move a giant cabinet across town.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-hJX9tdD/0/L/i-hJX9tdD-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-PVwtDC4/0/L/i-PVwtDC4-L.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

My next one will be flat for sure.

[Kryptoroxx]

One more reason for having a flat roof rack! You never know when you're going to have to help a friend move a giant cabinet across town.

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-hJX9tdD/0/L/i-hJX9tdD-L.jpg

http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-PVwtDC4/0/L/i-PVwtDC4-L.jpg
Still looks like it did the job well though.

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