School me on suspension, 98 4Runner [Archive]

Seanz0rz

03-31-2015, 08:08 PM

I rebuilt the front suspension with mostly OEM parts about 55k miles ago. New bushings, ball joints, etc. Recently (really since my roll) the truck handles horrible. It has this post-bump float, just like an old caddy. As my passengers can attest, it is quite scary.

The bad:
-It pitches (back comes up, front goes down, front comes up, back goes down) and rolls (left to right lean), but it also yaws badly (think turning in an office chair).
-This would continue (or get worse) until you removed your foot from the gas.
-I hear pops and clicks when I make a turn. Usually just one big pop. CVs appear to be fine.
-Upper Right BJ is puking pretty good.
-I know my rear shocks are in need of replacement. I installed new air bags and that helps with the Caddy handling somewhat, but the front feels the same. The rear shocks are too soft for my vehicle and simply do not do their job. The air bags are a band aid but somewhat effective.
-All rear suspension links have original bushings and are probably shot.
-I have never had a good experience with an alignment shop. They usually fail to tighten the bolts sufficiently to prevent the power steering from moving the cams around. Driveway alignments are obviously not working well for me.
-I have no front sway bar. I keep breaking end links.
-Sometimes, especially coming to a stop, the steering wheel needs to point some other direction than 12 o'clock to continue in a straight line. I feel like the alignment is moving under this condition, I've always had it pull to one side under braking but never found out why. Pads wear evenly.
-The truck leans to the right. It has done this for 7 years. Never could figure out why.

The good:
-Lower balljoints look pretty good. Just the usual amount of grease.
-Front shocks are newer and feel good still, not worried about those at all.
-Inner and outer tie rod ends are newish. They feel fine.
-Truck tracks straight on the road with no problems. Isn't hard to steer and doesn't have a problem returning to center.

Here is what I am looking at doing to the front end:
Poly bushings top and bottom. I don't even care about squeaking at this point. That's what the radio is for. ~$50
New upper BJs ~$80
New bushings for the power steering rack (they aren't that old but they don't look great). ~$25
Reinstall the sway bar with new bushings and new HD end links. ~$150-200
Install my steering knuckle braces
Get a good alignment and have them tighten the bolts properly.

So I have a few questions.

I see some people mention they went with Tacoma Lower BJ's. What is the difference?

Should I go with a uniball upper arm? I don't want to spend alot of money, but would it be worth the ~$600 (an extra $470) for the allpro upper arms?

Any good recommendations on front end links? I am about to just build them myself.

Am I missing anything? I am not expecting this thing to drive like an S-Class, but I shouldn't be afraid for my life every time I do drive it. It has become a white knuckle ride for sure. I am at the point where I am seriously regretting saving it after the roll.

Or do I give up and go LT like Troy?

troyboy162

03-31-2015, 11:08 PM

Man I don't know what could be doing that too you. I've had torn lower control arm bushings, clapped out rear links, driveway alightment and still never had any weird smptoms other then pulling to the right under hard braking.

The allpro arms are good for tire clearance and using extended travel shocks. The upper ball joint it the first part to bind.

The symptom where your steering isn't always in the same place after a stop is the smoking gun I'd say but of course that can come from all the sources you already know...lovely lol.

Tacoma LBJ are the same I think from when web researched, but they allow you to run Tacoma outer tie rods that are stronger and bigger. You trade turning radius though.

I don't regret long travel, but for the love of god don't get FOA shocks lol. At one point Mcm sold my kit for 2300 on sale. He wanted just 600 extra to upgrade to ADS shocks and they are top notch like king shocks

Kryptoroxx

04-01-2015, 09:27 AM

I did the tacoma lbj and otr. If there is any difference in the lbj it's very slight however the otr's are a good size bigger. Like troy said it effects your turning radius but imo it's not that big of a deal. I used to own a 1st gen taco so I am very used to the turning radius already.

I'm with troy on rhe smoking gun. However the Cadillac float feeling is definitely your shocks. Your shocks are worse than toast I'd say. BattleWagonActual had the same thing going on and after new shocks (well we lifted it) it rides like a champ now.

When I dropped his rear shocks out I could extend and compress them with a couple fingers of pressure lol.

4x4mike

04-01-2015, 02:20 PM

Sean haven't you needed rear shocks for awhile? If those are gone it could be a big part of the problem. Your 4Runner is a lot heavier than mine and you have taller rear coils but from my experience I would NOT go with the Tundra 5100's for the rear. Compared to my Tokico Trailmasters they are much softer and your added weight along with bags I don't think they would keep up or last. They work for me but when I'm loaded down and have air in the bags there is a noticeable change in the ride. It's probably a valving thing.

I think you're in a tough spot. I've read other builds that have gone with many different after market parts and it seems like it takes awhile to get everything dialed in. Almost like there isn't enough documented past the Tundra/5100 combo for the front.

For starters I'd look into rear shocks, reinstalling the sway bar with 2nd gen end links and eye balling your alignment to see where it is.

Seanz0rz

04-01-2015, 07:04 PM

I bought new shocks not long ago. Less than 2 years. They just don't have the right valving. Far too soft, like the bilstein 5100 for the rear. I will be going back to the Toyota Tokico black shock.

troyboy162

04-01-2015, 07:14 PM

You might be ready for stiffer springs. I had pretty good luck with them and the 861 springs, but I have more weight out back. That might have tamed them a bit.

I've got lower arms with poly bushings, the old rear shocks, and OME with 883 front struts if you want to try any of those.

Seanz0rz

04-01-2015, 07:55 PM

I'd be interested in the lower arms. Are you planning on keeping them or could I buy them from you?

troyboy162

04-01-2015, 07:59 PM

I'd sell them if you want them. $100 sound OK? You can have the upper Bushings as well. I never installed them

Seanz0rz

04-01-2015, 07:59 PM

I should add that I've been considering stiffer rear springs. I was looking at some OME 0" lift HD springs for the front of an fzj80. But I'm not sure those are the ones for me.

Seanz0rz

04-01-2015, 08:01 PM

Sounds good. I'll text you.

troyboy162

04-01-2015, 08:12 PM

How tall and what's the coil # rating? The 861 are very tall even when all my weight ccrushes almost all of the progressive winds.

Seanz0rz

04-02-2015, 02:49 PM

I'd have to find my notes. I just remember they were OME for the front of an 80 with no lift but a higher spring rate.

YotaFun

04-02-2015, 03:24 PM

Just give up on trying to figure out why it pulls every time you brake, I have beaten my head to a pulp and still haven't figure it out.
I was thinking maybe the tundra brakes since it has always done it since I installed those brakes, but I can't understand if everything is wearing evenly.

The pitch is largely associated in my mind with your front sway bar disconnected, your description sounds just like how mine reacts when the front is disconnected, and I am lighter then you.
I have *cough* wab-fab quick disconnects (from my younger days of no research), you can build them for half the cost and still be stronger then stock.

I really do recommend the all-pro arms, and I would also recommend getting some lower control arms and putting new bushings in, and for the rack getting the poly performance bushings, I really don't hear the squeaking that everyone describes, every now and then my uni-balls will do that from sitting stationary too long.

I would still get an alignment done, but if the problem is them leaving bolts loose, bring the tools with you and double check the tightness before you proceed off the lot, the truck still sits on the ground when those bolts get loosened to move them.

I feel the rear of my truck is too stiff when going down the road, but then again I am not hauling as much as you or have a rear bumper, but even when I had my heavy metal cart top and all my tools and all my fluids (was my mobile garage) I had the back sagging and it still wasn't bad, I am using the very cheapest land cruiser shocks I could get off of rock auto.

As far as the front maybe a stiffer spring then the tundra? I don't know how many miles you have on them, and I am not sure if your goal is super flex like mine but considering all the weight you have in the front with the bumper and the winch it might be a consideration?
As far as the lean, that seems to be a repeating record as of late, I have compensated a little using my adjustable coilovers to get that corrected...

I stuck with the 4Runner lbj, inners and outers, I have never had an issue with a tie rod end breaking. How does the rest of the rack feel? I haven't really had the ends go as much as the rack itself.

How are the wheel bearings? odd question I know but I think that is my issue as to why I might have a brake pull.

If you have stock rear links i am sure those bushings are shot and need replacement, let me see if I can find the link to them, I ordered new ones for mine after my rear diff disaster, the rear end of the truck feels very stout now.

Seanz0rz

04-02-2015, 05:13 PM

I was questioning the rack today in my head. I don't feel any play in it and it doesn't leak, so I am inclined to keep it original. I hear horrible things about the rebuilt racks.

Wheel bearings aren't that old. I replaced them maybe 5 or 6 years ago?

Tundra is plenty stiff for me, and I have quite a bit of preload on it where the bottom seat is at on the adjustable shock. In all the years I've had them, only in the past 9 months or so has this been an issue. It did it once before the roll and I played with the alignment cams, filled up the air bags, replaced the front shocks, and it was better. Now it's worse than it's ever been (at least before the new bags went in).

I am very interested in the rear bushings. I haven't seen an aftermarket kit.

I think the plan now is to get the All Pro upper arms, urethane bushings on the lower arms, reinstall the sway bar and get an alignment. After that... I'm not sure.

YotaFun

04-03-2015, 01:25 PM

Seanz0rz

04-03-2015, 04:09 PM

Thanks. I will be ordering parts soon.

Kryptoroxx

04-03-2015, 05:17 PM

Lower Lateral Link Bushings:
http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Bushing-Lateral-Control-48720-35040/dp/B00C6MYBAA

Upper Lateral Link Bushings:
http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Bushing-Lateral-Control-48702-35050/dp/B00C6MVPH2

I actually had them saved in my favorites -_-
I really need to go through my favorites lol
Thanks! I'm saving them to mine. They're still ok but I will be looking to replace in the next year or so.

Also since we are conversing about suspension I know that the uniball arms are pretty slick but would you recommend them back east? I know this year will be my last out in the desert and while I would love to eventually find some used uca if they get eaten by salt that would be a no go for me.

YotaFun

04-04-2015, 07:28 AM

Def recommend new bushings on the links, definitely tightened the rear end of the truck up good.
My lower arms are adjustable on one side with ballistics fab joints.

They have been holding up great, the only problem is they might wear a little faster then out west, for example I replaced them once from when I got them from the previous own and they had about 40K on them already.

Its been about 45k so far and they are still tight, and I really don't notice any noise that some have heard from them.
I have recommended them to plenty of guys out here, I would just spray some lubricant on them every now then...

Kryptoroxx

04-04-2015, 04:11 PM

Thanks for the info. Makes me feel a lot better about trying to find them vs just sticking with stock arms. Ubj are expensive and I would rather pick up uniball both for capability and ease of rebuild.

Seanz0rz

04-18-2015, 01:01 PM

I have sourced nearly everything. Waiting for the front UCAs to ship, and I am still looking for some decent endlinks for the front. I found some on T4R but he is not making any until August and sounds like sometimes people get something different than they wanted.

I will price out making my own end links in a little while and see if it is advantageous to do so. Otherwise I might visit WabFab for this.

I was going to do the rear end today but I feel too crappy to get out there and do real work. Caught a chest cold somewhere between work and doctor/hospital visits last week.

I did manage to source the shocks that are provided in the Sonoran Steel Lift Kit. I loved these shocks until I finally killed them a few years back. They were perfect for my setup (or at least the best I have found so far).

Here is all the info on those rear shocks, plus some pictures. They are from the rear axle of a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser:

Part Number Description
48531-69486 MARK 48531-60480 (07/1996 - 12/1997)

These are the same that shipped with SS 1 lift kit. The above description is a lie! They are marked 48531-60430.

Even though these are shown to come with the three (3) cushion retainers, they do not. Or at least neither of my shocks have them. I hope I still have mine or can find something to make them work. Toyota wants around 10 dollars a piece for them, NO THANKS! Only two are necessary anyway... I am sure I can find something to work in their place, even if it is just some HR Bar with a hole drilled in it.

Pictures!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7723/17003369710_74c91e0e4d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rUwHqJ)

New Cushions:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5347/17004740289_fe474f3900_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rUDJRp)

The all important 48531-60430 mark, not to mention seeing Tokico stamped on there as well:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8735/17164966816_b8dc23fc58_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/s9NWBJ)

They will go on next weekend if I am feeling up to it. It would be nice to have everything done in one weekend, front and rear.

Seanz0rz

04-18-2015, 01:28 PM

From McMaster:

1 2 packs 91290A234 Black-Oxide Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Fully Threaded, Alloy Steel, M12 Thread, 60 mm Long Monday morning $2.48 pack 4.96
2 2 each 4483T441 High-Strength Ball Joint Rod End, M12 x 1.75 RH Female Thread, 12mm Ball ID, 24mm Long Thread Monday morning $18.66 each 37.32
3 1 each 1078N14 Class 10.9 Steel Fully Threaded Rod, M12 Thread, 1.75mm Pitch, 1 Meter Long Monday morning $11.71 each 11.71
4 1 pack 90685A110 Class 10 Steel Hex Nut, M12x1.75 Thread Size, 19mm Wide, 10mm High, packs of 25 Monday morning $9.52 pack 9.52
5 1 pack 98026A032 Grade 8 Steel Flat Washer, Oversized, Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, 7/16" Screw Size, packs of 25 Monday morning $6.19 pack 6.19

Merchandise total
$69.70

Not a horrible price for all of that, I suspect about 85 or 90 with shipping/tax.

Kryptoroxx

04-18-2015, 09:02 PM

Hey thanks for the part numbers!! I think the land cruiser shocks could work perhaps. I only have 2" in the rear....I love the Tokico ride though even though the shocks are too short for the spring.

I looked up some part numbers recently for the studless diff mod as many call it. Nobody seemed to make something for the elocker though so I have sourced my own part numbers to halt this slow leak I have.

Seanz0rz

04-18-2015, 09:06 PM

I have all the parts to replace all of my studs with new ones, but that's a lot of work to stop a small leak.

Kryptoroxx

04-18-2015, 09:30 PM

I have all the parts to replace all of my studs with new ones, but that's a lot of work to stop a small leak.
Yeah it is but I will feel better about it when it's fixed. First i have to get some 6t jack stands.

I will also likely never have to touch it again. It's about 30 bucks in parts and I will have enough bolts to do it again if need be.

troyboy162

04-20-2015, 01:15 AM

have you tracked down the weird wobble?

My third leaks too, but Id guess its just a few drops per use of the truck. So far its low on the priority list of fixes

Seanz0rz

04-20-2015, 05:16 AM

The front end feels loose, but all the bolts are tight. I went after it with a flashlight and a mirror looking for cracks and found none. New bushings are here just waiting on all pro arms.

For the rear I think the main culprit is the shocks. Also picked up new bushings. I might start that tonight if I feel up to it.

Seanz0rz

04-26-2015, 04:09 PM

Rear bushings are in. I drove it with new bushings in 3 of the 4 links and it felt so much better, but problem not solved.

The rear bushings where shot! The left UCA looked OK. The Right UCA had one torn bushing, I believe on the frame side:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8700/16661978273_5b0949dd9e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/romZDt)

Those pressed out pretty easily. To press the new ones in, I greased up the bushing really well, then pressed it in. It worked out OK. Uppers took me i think 4 hours total, including messing around looking for tools and figuring out how to do it right.

The lowers were a bit more difficult. First, don't try to remove the nut. The nuts have 4 protrusions on the flange side that lock into the mounting bracket. Loosen by the bolt only!

I hear there are at least two different styles of LCA bushings. Up to mid 97, they were just rubber bushings like the upper arms. After that, they are captive bushings like the front control arms. I had purchased the bushings for the "early" so I needed to get rid of the entire captive bushing.

My lowers had significant degradation of the frame side bushings. I could wiggle them in my hand. The axle side was a tiny bit better.

The inner sleeve pressed out very easily:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7690/17282204445_63d79c6dae_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/skaPha)

I then took a hack saw and cut through the outer sleeve, then pressed them out. I cut where the tube is welded to the outer most sleeve, so even if I cut into the arm itself, it would not fail there.

Bushings were pressed in with the tabs pointing to the shaft of the arm, again, with lots of grease:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7697/17256237836_52607bd690_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/shSJj1)

Not much in the way of pictures. Each rear arm took me 3-4 hours to do, and were really a pain in the ass having to cut out the sleeves. If you have the proper press adapters, you may have more luck just pressing out. Mine were REALLY in there.

I am waiting for cushion retainers for the rear shocks, then I start on the front end.

4x4mike

04-26-2015, 08:28 PM

Oh man, I had no idea they were that hard to do. Now I know I'll ignore mine until they start rattling around.

Actually from the outside mine look fine and I remember taking a look at them when I did my rear axle swap but that was years ago now. A press is something on my want list.

Kryptoroxx

04-26-2015, 08:50 PM

Wow!! I guess the good news is you have more than likely found your problem. Too bad it's a pita to fix.

My buddy has been trying to talk me into making adjustable upper and lower arms with creeper joints but I am hesitant to pull the trigger to make such an important piece at home. Plus I highly doubt that the joints would last any longer than the bushings.

Seanz0rz

04-27-2015, 05:29 AM

I can say for sure the joints won't last as long. BUT, they are easily rebuildable.

I tracked down the bushings for the panhard bar from sonoran steel. I believe that's the last of it!

YotaFun

04-28-2015, 04:20 PM

I still can't believe it was so hard for you, I have multiple sets of arms, I know I had two sets of 97' and I feel like I have a 99' set as well, I will have to look and see if the part numbers on the newer ones match.

Mine were done maybe 5 minutes a side, just for reference mine is a 97' without the collar I guess.

I def think the rear link bushing are a must do for anyone, just due to time and how old a 3rd gen is now, even if it has low miles and has sat a while those bushing are going to be worn, another bushing to replace is the bottom of the front struts where it connects to the lower control arms, they tend to wear fast and separate from the bottom due to gravity in and of itself, The original struts were shot, the tundras were still good, but the adjustable needed them, which I found out happen to be the same bushing as the stock struts.

I never checked the sway bar bushing, guess I should, I might be making a call to Sonoran myself!

Krypt, its not to hard to make them, I made a set of adjustable lowers and just beefed the upper ones

Seanz0rz

04-28-2015, 07:29 PM

I think if I had the proper slug to press out the old bushings, it would have been easier. The socket I had was maybe .063 too small.

Kryptoroxx

04-28-2015, 08:50 PM

I can say for sure the joints won't last as long. BUT, they are easily rebuildable.

I tracked down the bushings for the panhard bar from sonoran steel. I believe that's the last of it!
I did a bit of research and you were more than right about longevity but I did find these which I believe are also rebuildable....but even if they aren't the smaller sizes are quite reasonable. The 1.25 is the largest they carry. Just thought it might be interesting to see fully adjustable links with the stability and reliability of rubber bushings.

www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sale-QA1-Adventure-Series-Rod-Ends-w-Bushing-1-Inch-14-Male,9387.html

YotaFun

04-29-2015, 02:58 PM

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Forged-Chromoly-20-Ballistic-Joint_p_1966.html

here are the ends I used on one side of my lower links when I rebuilt them.
they are holding up pretty well so far.

Seanz0rz

05-02-2015, 03:31 PM

Ordered and replaced the bushings in the Sonoran Steel Panhard bar. I am not pleased with the design in the least, but it is done and should serve me at least another 9 years.

For those wondering, the bushings are ~$16 shipped to your door. Not bad.

I ordered the wrong washers from McMaster, so I ended up making my own out of 1/8" hot rolled bar, cut in 2" squares with 9/16" holes drilled in them. Waiting for paint to dry so I can install them tomorrow morning and button up the rear end.

Kryptoroxx

05-03-2015, 11:20 AM

Hey if it works....it works. I hope you found your gremlin man.

Seanz0rz

05-03-2015, 11:43 AM

Yeah. From an engineering standpoint, it makes me cringe. From a garage, git er done, standpoint, it still makes me uneasy.

Going out to put shocks on now. I will probably fit the front sway bar and endlinks too.

Seanz0rz

05-03-2015, 05:27 PM

Rear end is finished! It actually feels connected to the vehicle again, not this vague, distant thing clunking around.

Here's a tip for getting those rear shocks in:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8786/16740635303_b588e4d661_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rvj8Da)

It will take (7) 8" zip ties to do (one on each end, 5 for the band. If you are good, you can reuse 4 of those for the next shock. Bolt up the bottom, then cut and aim the shaft to the whole as it expands.

I also fitted my front sway bar again. I will get pictures of the adjustable links when I pull the front apart later, but needless to say, the truck rides so much better with it on.

I will start pulling the front end apart tomorrow night after work.

YotaFun

05-05-2015, 04:35 PM

Glad to see progress, my parts collection is growing and I have set myself a goal for My29th, as I need to be on the road to North Caroline to catch a Train so to speak.

DO you by any chance have a part number on those bushings from sonoran or do they have a number on them that we can research?

Seanz0rz

05-05-2015, 05:45 PM

Send him an email. I think they might have had a number but I don't think I even took pics.

Just pulled the wheels and stopping for dinner. Goal is to get skids off, calipers hung from something not the UCA, and get the LCA/knuckle and UCA/knuckle separated. Tomorrow I hope to get the knuckles stripped down and the gussets welded on. Thursday maybe reassembly, otherwise this weekend.

Seanz0rz

05-09-2015, 12:20 PM

Getting the front done this weekend. Already found one big problem that will be solved by new upper arms. I hate the front end, so much work!

I'll try to grab a few more pictures of this than I did of the rear end. It is hard when I am working by myself.

YotaFun

05-09-2015, 06:30 PM

I don't know if you mentioned front end slop as far as feeling loose, but this is another thing I will be doing that completely skipped my mind when thinking about your front end problems, http://www.yotatech.com/f2/how-replace-steering-rack-guide-pictures-215931/

Seanz0rz

05-09-2015, 08:25 PM

Interesting. I'll have to look into that more.

troyboy162

05-09-2015, 08:27 PM

have you guys bothered with that one? I know my guide is the old style, but it seems to be working fine.

paddlenbike

05-09-2015, 09:02 PM

have you guys bothered with that one? I know my guide is the old style, but it seems to be working fine.

Interesting, I had never heard of that repair. Do we know what year Toyota switched to the solid design?

YotaFun

05-10-2015, 07:23 AM

Just an extra insurance in my mind, again this seems for some reason to be a northeast thing, thinking again a moisture thing.
I will be doing it soon, I feel I oculd have saved my previous rack and racks before that by doing this mod.

Ken, not sure on the year, pretty much you should be able to look at the rack and if the hex head is sticking out instead of being sunk in you have the old style, opposite, new. I feel like 01 the Tacoma may have gotten it but I don't think the 4Runner ever did...

Seanz0rz

05-17-2015, 07:01 PM

Braces welded on. I won them at Pismo half a dozen years ago or more.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8844/17798941641_7fe029c0da_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t7Qefa)

Burning out the bushings:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5469/17798941951_cef48a654b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t7Qekv)

New endlinks. Total about $65 for both sides, with extra hardware:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7679/17798927601_653031e869_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t7Qa56)

All put back together:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7760/17772183656_43e281c746_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t5t62A)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8811/17798922261_30e6e85438_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t7Q8u2)

It goes in for alignment next week, then I will see how she drives. In the quick trip around the block, the front end feels grounded to the ground. Seriously though, it feels like the wheels are actually connected to the vehicle.

I found my upper control arm's forward bushing on the right side spun in the sleeve. The outer sleeve of the bushing was spinning in the control arm. That's where my clunk was.

My lower BJs are gushing a bit of grease, but they felt pretty good still. I might try to pump some new grease inside the boots, but they are pretty OK as is.

Kryptoroxx

05-17-2015, 08:28 PM

Dang man! That's a lot of work and you found the gremlin too. Great work and looks like you won't have much maintenance to do for a while lol.

4x4mike

05-18-2015, 08:33 AM

So shiny.

Man you've really torn into things, I hope all the work pays off. Did the new a-arm bushings press in easily? Require a press? I don't remember if you mentioned what bushings you used. OE or after market. I don't think I'm due for this maintenance but have some bushings sitting in a box in my garage and have wondered.

Any thought on some Nylock nuts for the links? That course thread and top bushing look like they might have issue about holding onto that nut.

Seanz0rz

05-18-2015, 09:06 AM

The poly bushings did not require a hydraulic press, in fact it is too cumbersome to put on a press easily. OEM bushings will require a press but no fire. Poly bushings reuse the outer and inner sleeves (pain in the ass), but future replacement will be easier.

I used this:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10452-installing-polly-bushings-in-lover-control-arm

And purchased the ball joint press in the link. Worth the 80 bucks.

I purchased:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNB3M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN7AKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00386UHWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for the end links. I will be putting some thread locker on them once I figure out if they are at the right height. The threaded rod was put into the rod end with red loctite so they will not back out.

I didn't sleep last night, too much pain. Took today off of work because I can barely lift my arms or walk. Truck went for alignment this morning, so I will report back this afternoon on the results.

4x4mike

05-18-2015, 09:50 AM

Great, thanks. That a-arm kit is the one Bob gave me that he ended up not using. I figured I'd snatch it up in case it's needed one day. I have the steering rack kit in a box as well (it was a Pismo raffle win) and I replaced my sway arm bushing the day before I left for Pismo last year.

Thanks for the documentation and Troy's link, I'm not sure I remember that one.

Seanz0rz

05-18-2015, 10:14 AM

If you have any other questions, let me know. I didn't document much of it this time.

Seanz0rz

05-18-2015, 05:40 PM

Still waiting on a freeway trip, but so far it is SO MUCH BETTER!!!

paddlenbike

05-18-2015, 10:22 PM

Still waiting on a freeway trip, but so far it is SO MUCH BETTER!!!

Glad you got it figured out Sean.

Seanz0rz

05-19-2015, 08:56 AM

The ride at 70 is amazing. It is now mostly drivable again! Just need to track down some rattles and get some insulation on the roof.

Kryptoroxx

05-19-2015, 12:37 PM

The ride at 70 is amazing. It is now mostly drivable again! Just need to track down some rattles and get some insulation on the roof.
70 is max speed isn't it? Lol

Seanz0rz

05-19-2015, 04:54 PM

Kryptoroxx

05-19-2015, 07:14 PM

Yeah, I'll keep mine under 100...

The ride is amazing. I am finally happy that I spent all the time and money fixing it after the roll. I feel like I have my 4Runner back now!

Now, who wants to go wheelin?
Lol now you ask ;)

I can do close by stuff but right now my schedule is tight. Busy schedule and I'm getting my chance at promotion this year so all my records have to be really squared away.

Seanz0rz

05-19-2015, 07:23 PM

I'm booked this weekend, plus memorial day is crazy on the mountain. Maybe weekend after.

Kryptoroxx

05-19-2015, 08:12 PM

I'm booked this weekend, plus memorial day is crazy on the mountain. Maybe weekend after.
Sounds good. Big bear seems to have a whole lot of trails I didn't know about.

Seanz0rz

05-19-2015, 08:19 PM

It's more than just john bull. Even the fire roads are fun. I'm down for a gold mountain run but my wife hates the rocks, especially the rock garden.

Kryptoroxx

05-19-2015, 08:53 PM

It's more than just john bull. Even the fire roads are fun. I'm down for a gold mountain run but my wife hates the rocks, especially the rock garden.
That would be a little much for my truck I believe. Pretty sure I would want sliders unless I went to 33" and even then sliders would be nice.

Seanz0rz

05-20-2015, 05:48 PM

I'll figure out something fun to do in a few weeks. Both skid mounts on the LCA ears are broken, so I will have to figure out another spot to attach the skids to.

4x4mike

05-20-2015, 09:57 PM

Why don't you guys come up here for a trip. Trees, cool air, mountain streams.

troyboy162

05-20-2015, 11:46 PM

we gotta do a rubicon trip at some point.

Seanz0rz

05-21-2015, 06:06 AM

Some day...

It's hard for me to get more than a day off. Even missing Monday I am paying for it the rest of the week even when a coworker helped out a bunch. A vacation from work for me is nothing more than procrastination. If we hit a slow spot (I think I remember August being pretty slow?) then we would love to come up north.

Seanz0rz

05-21-2015, 06:43 PM

I now have these ABS codes:

31 - Right Front Sensor
32 - Left Front Sensor
34 - Left Rear Sensor
49 - Stop Light Switch Circuit

49 I think is because of the LED tail lights. The others I am not sure. Any suggestions?

YotaFun

05-21-2015, 07:04 PM

did you unplug the sensors when you did the arms or links?

Also weird question but does your speedo still work?

Seanz0rz

05-21-2015, 07:29 PM

Speedo works great! I did unplug the front two sensors, but I am not sure what the rear sensor threw a code for, I haven't touched them in ages.

I think it may have started when I pulled out of the driveway on my test drive. The light came on then and I checked both sensors and found that the right front was not screwed in all the way, so I fixed that and expected the light to go off, but it didn't.

I cleared the codes. (remove jumper, jump E1 and Tc, turn IGN to ON, press brake pedal >6 times in <5 seconds). I will see how it does tomorrow. It got a little hairy when a big rig pulled out in front of me today at 60mph. I locked up the fronts for a second expecting the ABS to take care of a panic brake. Good to know I can do that though!