PDA

View Full Version : Seanz0rz's 2005 Lexus LX470



Seanz0rz
04-09-2016, 10:52 AM
Since rolling the 4Runner in September, 2014, we have been looking into replacing it with something newer and more comfortable. We pretty quickly decided on a 100 series Land Cruiser or its Lexus sibling.

2005 Lexus LX470 purchased with 169,000 Miles

Blizzard Pearl (070) w/ Ivory leather
Engine was replaced at 168,xxx due to a blown heater tee causing catastrophic overheating. It is said to have 110k miles.

Lots of cool gizmos including the Night View system which I haven't found very useful yet.

Here are the pictures, since that's what everyone is waiting for anyway.

Full album can be found here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskxUAJWi

The fleet:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1536/26330026145_f575934646_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/G7Ggs2)

The source of the previous engine's demise. A three dollar part:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1668/26263801431_ec9e54280c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/G1QR9B)

I love that third row!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1587/25727257333_ed083f10ed_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FcqVhi)


Plan is right now to get her cleaned up, current on maintenance and then on to the mods!

I never did one of these threads for the 4Runner, I always just based it on project. Hopefully I can keep this up!

paddlenbike
04-09-2016, 02:40 PM
Congrats Sean, looks like a nice rig!

malteserunner
04-09-2016, 05:18 PM
Very nice! I came thiiiis close to buying a 100 series, before I found my 80. You'll love that V8!

Kryptoroxx
04-10-2016, 07:03 AM
Ooooo purrty. Nice lookin rig man!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Good Times
04-10-2016, 07:55 AM
sexy!

paddlenbike
04-11-2016, 07:49 AM
What are your current thoughts modification-wise?

Seanz0rz
04-11-2016, 08:37 AM
Usual suspects.

Lift will probably be OME. Or AHC override from Slee.
Tires I'm thinking 275/70R18 BFG AT KO2.
Bumpers, sliders I'm undecided on.
TJM Airtec snorkel
Gamiviti rack
Nav delete (this should be fun...)

paddlenbike
04-11-2016, 01:34 PM
I must admit, I am jealous of your tailgate.

I googled AHC to find out how it worked but all I saw were threads on it not working. Is it an airbag system for the rear only?

Seanz0rz
04-11-2016, 05:51 PM
AHC - Auto Height Control, lets you raise and lower the vehicle front and rear hydraulically. Sounds great, BUT, there are some caveats to that. You can go to Low (~-1") or High (~+2") only up to 19 mph. After that, it will go back to normal. Slee sells an override kit so you can keep it in High. I think keeping it in low on the freeway might help with the mpg a bit. The reliability is likely pretty closely tied to the amount of service it saw in its life. Mine had quite a bit of dealer service and the system seems to work. It will also auto level as you load the truck. Pretty neat in concept, although I don't think this generation really hit the mark. Maybe it is better in the new ones?

The adaptive suspension works pretty well. It was in #2 when I test drove it and it was floaty and comfortable. I now have it in sport (4) so it feels more like a truck and generally more grounded to the ground.

I suspect I will end up going to a standard suspension with new torsion bars, rear springs, and shocks with some airbags to supplement in the rear. I think that would be much more reliable and ultimately cheaper.

Surprisingly, there isn't much out there suspension wise. Might come up with some home brew solutions.

Seanz0rz
04-12-2016, 06:53 AM
Doing more research online last night and it looks more like WHEN than IF it will fail. Chasing the system can be a pain and requires techstream. I will probably pull it sooner than later so I can still sell working components.

paddlenbike
04-12-2016, 07:10 AM
That's the impression I got too. I found zero articles explaining how it worked (mechanically) and hundreds about it being broken. Sounds like OME is the way to go.

It will be fun to watch your build; the 100-series is a nice platform.

Good Times
04-12-2016, 10:43 AM
Sean we can talk this weekend about all of the stuff you're gonna do to my 100! haha :)

toyotech
04-12-2016, 05:59 PM
Surpised you didn't look into the GX. Either way. What will the vehicles purpose be? Replacing the runner completely and taking over its duties ?

Seanz0rz
04-12-2016, 06:20 PM
It will take the 4runner's place. My days of rock bashing are over and I just want to explore the deserts and mountains.

We looked at the GX but we both liked the increased room of the LX, plus I really hate that rear door on the GX.

toyotech
04-13-2016, 05:22 PM
It will take the 4runner's place. My days of rock bashing are over and I just want to explore the deserts and mountains.

We looked at the GX but we both liked the increased room of the LX, plus I really hate that rear door on the GX.

Sweet. Hopefully I'll get to check it out next years Mojave trip!,

Seanz0rz
04-24-2016, 04:41 PM
Cleaned the steering wheel in prep for one of these (http://smile.amazon.com/Superior-58-0700T-Superskin-Steering-Genuine/dp/B00C5TCB06?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00):
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1705/26599734566_6cabb8abd2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GwwAnd)

All told, it took about 6 hours and I am not crazy about the finished product, but it is still better than a sticky steering wheel. At least this should stay cool in the summer. I bought the C size, but I suspect it is a little loose around the wood parts. It's a hard call. Overall I am happy with it, but it was a pain to install and I either missed a few holes (I couldn't find any I missed) or it had a few extra (more likely). Quality is OK, but the thread is crap. If I did it again I'd buy some better thread.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1499/26599732906_663675cb83_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GwwzSA)

Spent a bunch of time cleaning the carpets. It's better but I think I will have to pull the interior panels, especially on the 3rd row/cargo area and clean them and the carpet underneath. Lots of sticky spills. I'm actually fairly pissed off at the PO for calling this vehicle "clean". I think my OCD will cause me to strip it and clean it at some point. Probably when I go to do my wiring.

I added Weathertech mats on front and second row. Still torn on doing the 3rd row/cargo mat, I don't care for the big lip at the front. I will probably come up with a nice home-brew solution.

Anyway, here are the pictures:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1624/26560566681_72ff010439_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gt4R7R)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1549/26599733856_5a32841171_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GwwA9Y)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1468/26560566361_ba84b9e466_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gt4R2k)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1464/26599733566_85e20ab177_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GwwA4Y)


I did have a look at the jack and tool kit. This is one of those details that sets the LC/LX apart from any other vehicle in the Toyota catalog.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1541/26532861292_347d24b1fb_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GqBRgJ)

There are the usual suspects: jack tools, spare tire tools, lug wrench. Then the oddities. Philips screw driver, 8/10mm combo wrench, 12/14mm combo wrench, spark plug socket, tire spoon. This is not your average tool kit...

Finally, I added the "If you rear end me, I am at least going to screw up the front of your car really bad" hitch. I will pick up a 2" ball soon. And I threw in the license plate frame I got for x-mas after the 4Runner roll for good measure.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1530/26599732396_ff2854bd79_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GwwzHN)

Next up is... probably some boring maintenance stuff... I doubt I'll do anything exciting to it in the next couple of months.

YotaFun
04-24-2016, 06:04 PM
As long as you don't have the cooled center console, taking the interior apart to do the carpet is as easy as it is in the 3rd gens.
What was exactly wrong with the original steering wheel, you said sticky, can you elaborate?
I am pretty sure that the steering wheel from the 05-06 Camry, the 4th gen 4Runner/GX, as well as the 05-09 Tacoma share the same steering wheel just slightly different styling it you end up changing it out.

Seanz0rz
04-24-2016, 06:19 PM
Steering wheel was just dirty and had a little wear at 9 o'clock. I also really dislike the wood on it. This should be more comfortable and much cooler in the summer time.

Bob98SR5
04-28-2016, 11:00 PM
Steering wheel was just dirty and had a little wear at 9 o'clock. I also really dislike the wood on it. This should be more comfortable and much cooler in the summer time.

Sean,

Who made your wheel cover? If its Wheelskins, they'll send you more thread if you email them.

Personally it looks like the cover is too big.

Bob

Seanz0rz
04-29-2016, 06:36 AM
Bob,

It is a cheap Superior Superskin. I'm too cheap to shell out for a Wheel Skins one. This is really to keep the steering wheel cool in the summer and hide the wood. I might redo it some day but honestly, it's doing its job just fine. I really don't expect it to last longer than 3 years.

I have to say, they say measure the largest circumference of the wheel, but you should really measure the smallest. If there is a gap, no big deal. If it overlaps or is not tight, it sucks.

Seanz0rz
04-29-2016, 05:17 PM
Replaced the Hood Struts:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1573/26116228123_364a8d298d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FMNuKe)

OG units (I believe to be original) were leaking and would barely hold the hood. Nearly broke my arm the other day.

Also replaced the cabin air filter and engine air filter. Both were disgusting.

4x4mike
04-30-2016, 05:26 PM
Cabin filter

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/3e/d7/bf/3ed7bf49a25fe32b1d2d4c3674edddc0.jpg

Seanz0rz
04-30-2016, 05:39 PM
I never understood why the 3rd gens didn't get one. Hell, even many 100 series didn't get it, even though there was a spot for it.

YotaFun
04-30-2016, 05:49 PM
When did cabin filters become a thing in cars anyway, like how early on?
I don't think my gen Camry got it till 05', same with Chris's Matrix
I love having it on the Camry, I wish the 3rd gens too came with it.

Seanz0rz
04-30-2016, 05:56 PM
My 97 CR-V had a cabin filter.

Seanz0rz
05-01-2016, 06:02 PM
Installed the dash cam. I didn't get pictures of the install, it was pretty uneventful. I tapped the positive going to the auto dimming mirror (but checked first that it does not turn off when in reverse like my Fusion does).

Used one of these: http://smile.amazon.com/HitCar-Inverter-Converter-Charger-Recorder/dp/B00U2DGI10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

Used an existing mounting bracket screw for ground.

Everything tucked up nicely in the cavity forward of the sunroof controls.

Installed:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1586/26155999084_dc182c00ab_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FRjkgs)

Can't even see it from the outside. (Not a great picture).
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1553/26761571295_426e8473ac_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GLQ3MD)


There is a bit of glare, I might build a box around it, but I don't really think it is a problem. This video is the worst of it. (click to go to the video)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1572/26668123302_7efe3fa002_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GCz6Xm)

toyotech
05-01-2016, 08:54 PM
A dash mat will fix that.

Seanz0rz
05-20-2016, 06:56 PM
UPS man dropped off the screen today:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7370/26535886763_62d0619281_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GqTmD2)

I'll have much more on this in another post in a few weeks. For now I'm just playing with it.

I did spend a day cleaning the 3rd row up. Found alot of sticky stuff (coke or coffee or something) and a little bit of broken glass on the passenger side. Looks like that right rear cargo window was broken at some point. Replacement is Lexus and matches the others. I don't think it happened very long ago.

Sticky glass:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7486/26536024293_c401f59a45_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GqU4we)

I hope my seat belts don't explode!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7485/27140347865_c781c5c4ac_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HminSa)

This weekend I'll toss the HID's in her and if I feel up to it, a wash, clay bar, and wax.

Good Times
05-20-2016, 10:16 PM
Sean, where'd ya get the hood struts? I need to replace mine too! Also my rear tailgate window struts too. :) if you found a killer place let me know!

Seanz0rz
05-21-2016, 08:50 AM
http://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/

They sell thru Amazon as well, I went with that so I get my 3% rewards.

I went with the StrongArm brand. It seemed to rate just a tiny bit better than the house brand. Also note that some are sold as each, some are sold as pair.

malteserunner
05-21-2016, 11:24 AM
We used to sell Strong Arm lift supports. Good quality, as we had very few come backs for warranty.

Bob98SR5
05-21-2016, 11:27 AM
Sweet, Sean. I was just researching vendors for lifts. Thanks!

Seanz0rz
05-21-2016, 11:38 AM
I seriously doubt they will last as long as the OEM units, but for the price difference, they are hard to beat.

Bob98SR5
06-03-2016, 02:35 PM
Hey Sean,
So I got the lifts last Saturday and began the process. Couple o' things if you haven't looked and assuming they're assembled the same way as my 98 4Runner:

- The bottom bracket has a pin, plastic push-type grommet bushing w/ a flange at both ends, and a snap ring. So yes, those snap rings are a pain to get off without taking off the bracket itself. That's exactly what I did when I realized:

- You need a ladder to keep the hatch up. Or a wife with one arm propped up and a beer in the other hand waiting for you to finish the job :P (j/k) But I think yours is just a window. But perhaps the same effect that a single shock can't hold the weight of the window or hatch in your case can't hold the weight up.

The bottom bracket bushing in my case was about 60% destroyed. Called a few parts dealer with no luck. I ended up buying a flange polymer bushing from igus.com:

Energy Chain Systems® and polymer plain bearings Reference no. W16-5020-1955

Pos. Number Part no. Description Price/Unit Total
1 3 JFM-0608-08 iglide® J, flange bushing (metric) 1.30 USD 3.90 USD
2 3 JFM-0608-10 iglide® J, flange bushing (metric) 1.30 USD 3.90 USD

I'll let you know if it works or not.

On the other top half (piston end), there's a different shaped flange, same type of pin, snap ring, but a large wave washer. No plastic bushing. All parts appear to still be in good shape.

If you can remove the snap rings w/o removing the brackets, I'd say that's the way to go. But I tried for nearly a half hour before I said fuggit and unbolted the 4 loctite'd bolts and finished the rest inside my place. Good thing too because the first snap ring flew off but luckily it hit something that absorbed the impact and it was obvious where it landed. Had I done that street side, this thread would've been a rant!

Bob98SR5
06-03-2016, 02:36 PM
Hey Sean,
So I got the lifts last Saturday and began the process. Couple o' things if you haven't looked and assuming they're assembled the same way as my 98 4Runner:

- The bottom bracket has a pin, plastic push-type grommet bushing w/ a flange at both ends, and a snap ring. So yes, those snap rings are a pain to get off without taking off the bracket itself. That's exactly what I did when I realized:

- You need a ladder to keep the hatch up. Or a wife with one arm propped up and a beer in the other hand waiting for you to finish the job :P (j/k) But I think yours is just a window. But perhaps the same effect that a single shock can't hold the weight of the window or hatch in your case can't hold the weight up.

The bottom bracket bushing in my case was about 60% destroyed. Called a few parts dealer with no luck. I ended up buying a flange polymer bushing from igus.com:

Energy Chain Systems® and polymer plain bearings Reference no. W16-5020-1955

Pos. Number Part no. Description Price/Unit Total
1 3 JFM-0608-08 iglide® J, flange bushing (metric) 1.30 USD 3.90 USD
2 3 JFM-0608-10 iglide® J, flange bushing (metric) 1.30 USD 3.90 USD

I'll let you know if it works or not.

On the other top half (piston end), there's a different shaped flange, same type of pin, snap ring, but a large wave washer. No plastic bushing. All parts appear to still be in good shape.

If you can remove the snap rings w/o removing the brackets, I'd say that's the way to go. But I tried for nearly a half hour before I said fuggit and unbolted the 4 loctite'd bolts and finished the rest inside my place. Good thing too because the first snap ring flew off but luckily it hit something that absorbed the impact and it was obvious where it landed. Had I done that street side, this thread would've been a rant!

Oh yea, do one side at a time for reference's sake.

Seanz0rz
06-04-2016, 06:33 PM
Thanks! I will need to be replacing my 4Runner liftgate ones soon and my plastic bushings fell out years ago.

Started planning out my front end service. So far I'm still under 1k, but it is going to be expensive. I will be pulling it apart before I purchase so I can order just what I need. It will be at least a month until I can do that. (Why do I always pick the summer to do major repairs?)

habanero
06-05-2016, 04:43 AM
Thanks for the lifty vendor Sean and for the dash cam quick review, and for the tips Bob.

Bob98SR5
06-12-2016, 11:43 PM
Sean,

Got those lift shocks in. Man, I just got so used to pushing that lift gate up and now I have to watch out that my chin doesn't get whacked when the gate comes up by itself! Ok exaggerating a bit, but it's nice to have the gate come up all by itself.

Some more tips:

- For the 98 4Runner, the e-clips (they're not your traditional c-shaped snap rings) are 5mm
- Buy this tool. A little overkill for 4 clips, right? HA! Wait til you lose 3 out of 4 b/c you're too cheap to buy the right tool for the part! :D Not to mention, making a trip or two to get those metric 5mm e-clips. Tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W94UEQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

After trying it both ways, I recommend just unbolting both the brackets and removing those clips on a bench. Installing those clips while standing up and NOT using the right tool will all but guarantee a clip or two flying off. Ask me how I know. If you choose not to buy the tool, you'll have better success getting those clips on.

- Bolt the bottom one first, then the top. You can push the gate up even further so that the top bracket will neatly slide underneath and then you can bolt in. I did this by myself, no ladder.

garrett
07-09-2016, 07:45 PM
Bob, which lifts did you end up getting? The website shows 2 compatible part numbers for a 98 4Runner...

Bob98SR5
07-10-2016, 07:25 AM
Sean, this is what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030DIRIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Be careful getting those e-clips out.

Seanz0rz
07-10-2016, 08:00 AM
You mean Garrett.

I bought the Strong Arm brand. They were a few dollars more but generally had better reviews.


Since this is my Lexus thread, I should apply an update.

It is currently under a car cover waiting for time and money for front brakes/etc. I am commuting with the 4Runner right now.

I did buy a Nav replacement screen. It is best described as a disaster. It was installed for 1 week then it came back out in favor of the stock unit. It has great potential but I honestly need something that just works.

I will be working with a local company on armor soon. I have better access to a good CAD system so that should move that process forward.

garrett
07-16-2016, 03:08 PM
Hey Sean,
So I got the lifts last Saturday and began the process. Couple o' things if you haven't looked and assuming they're assembled the same way as my 98 4Runner:

- The bottom bracket has a pin, plastic push-type grommet bushing w/ a flange at both ends, and a snap ring. So yes, those snap rings are a pain to get off without taking off the bracket itself. That's exactly what I did when I realized:

- You need a ladder to keep the hatch up. Or a wife with one arm propped up and a beer in the other hand waiting for you to finish the job :P (j/k) But I think yours is just a window. But perhaps the same effect that a single shock can't hold the weight of the window or hatch in your case can't hold the weight up.

The bottom bracket bushing in my case was about 60% destroyed. Called a few parts dealer with no luck. I ended up buying a flange polymer bushing from igus.com:

Energy Chain Systems® and polymer plain bearings Reference no. W16-5020-1955

Pos. Number Part no. Description Price/Unit Total
1 3 JFM-0608-08 iglide® J, flange bushing (metric) 1.30 USD 3.90 USD
2 3 JFM-0608-10 iglide® J, flange bushing (metric) 1.30 USD 3.90 USD

I'll let you know if it works or not.

On the other top half (piston end), there's a different shaped flange, same type of pin, snap ring, but a large wave washer. No plastic bushing. All parts appear to still be in good shape.

If you can remove the snap rings w/o removing the brackets, I'd say that's the way to go. But I tried for nearly a half hour before I said fuggit and unbolted the 4 loctite'd bolts and finished the rest inside my place. Good thing too because the first snap ring flew off but luckily it hit something that absorbed the impact and it was obvious where it landed. Had I done that street side, this thread would've been a rant!

Oh yea, do one side at a time for reference's sake.

Bob, got my new lift supports installed. Thanks for the tip on the snap ring tool, made it so easy.

My plastic bushings were about gone, did the igus.com ones work for you? Also, on mine, the plastic bushings were on the top brackets, with the wave washers on the bottom. Is this opposite of yours?

Bob98SR5
07-18-2016, 11:04 PM
Garret,

I haven't had a chance to put those bushings in. I would have to look at the truck about the wave vs plastic bushing placement tomorrow. I'll let you know.

Bob

Bob98SR5
07-20-2016, 06:37 AM
Garrett,

I made a description mistake: My wave washers are on the bottom bracket.

garrett
07-20-2016, 08:36 AM
Garrett,

I made a description mistake: My wave washers are on the bottom bracket.

Cool. Also, i ended up going with this method to replace my broken plastic bushings: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/158371-tip-those-replaced-their-lift-supports-rear-tailgate.html

Seanz0rz
12-26-2016, 10:24 AM
I used my long weekend to design and build a mount for my Yaesu FT-7800 face plate.

On the printer (excuse the blur):
https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/759/31893911215_03f2bda266_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QAmCCX)

From left to right: Print failed due to power outage, print successful but locking tabs were too low, print failed to adhere properly to the bed, final successful print.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5607/31053523284_9cbc8d8483_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Pj6qzS)

Whipped up a quick 45 degree bracket:
https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/397/31053519284_f385509bb8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Pj6poU)

Installed:
https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/708/31746151732_d041beca72_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QnijTE)

I can still remove the face plate if needed:
https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/731/31893907655_c915970c41_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QAmBzz)


This is just a prototype. I will reprint in nylon this spring when the temps rise and the PLA plastic starts to fail. I am sure I will make some changes (I already have to both parts, but these are usable).

paddlenbike
12-27-2016, 07:40 AM
3D printing sure makes a better end-product than some L-brackets and deck screws. Looks great Sean.

toyotech
12-27-2016, 08:39 PM
That is a clean install!

RobG
12-27-2016, 09:04 PM
Sean,

Looks Great. How did you attach the bracket to the center console? Do you need a special head to print Nylon?

Seanz0rz
12-28-2016, 04:24 AM
Thanks!

Bracket is attached with some 3M VHB mounting tape.

I can print this nylon with my 3D printer right now, just need a spool and maybe some more experience. It turns out nylon is a bit of a pain to print with. Since I'm doing such large items with it, I might need to build an enclosure to maintain the heat properly. This will prevent warping and layer separation. At least that's what they say.

4x4mike
12-28-2016, 09:03 AM
Looks great Sean. Pretty cool to have a tool that can create something so custom. Like more than just bending and grinding some steel.

The heating thing makes sense. Hopefully it's not a PITA to dial in.

Seanz0rz
12-28-2016, 07:36 PM
I am very happy with the printer. I am looking into buying a mill and lathe to do more work in aluminum, brass and steel, but the plastic will do nicely for now.

Seanz0rz
01-08-2017, 05:26 PM
Fixed my squeaky window:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/mystery-squeak-solved-cargo-window-loose.968328/

Seanz0rz
06-24-2017, 08:23 PM
Been awhile since I posted up here. Not much in the mods dept.

Installed my Chinese knockoff snorkel last night. I sanded it and repainted it because the surface finish was so terrible! Came out very nice!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4239/35129583380_8bad9718c3_k.jpg ('https://flic.kr/p/Vwhif5')
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4285/35476736766_4a7ef61c1c_k.jpg ('https://flic.kr/p/W3XxRh')

Grill is a custom design, 3D printed with the LEXUS logo painted white. Really came out nice!!! I am super happy with it!


When I was working on the air box, I noticed my heater tees were wet. Both are broken! They were replaced about 14 months ago right before we bought the truck. Mechanic must have broken them? Very lucky I noticed on a Friday. Amazon Prime got me new parts and coolant within 6 hours for not much more than what the dealer wanted. I will be changing those out tomorrow.

4x4mike
06-25-2017, 06:06 PM
Clean looking install. Was it hard to do once you got over having to drill a giant hole? I don't know anything about the 100's so I don't know if it's a totally custom install.

Seanz0rz
06-25-2017, 06:35 PM
Very easy. In some ways, easier than the 3rd gen safari snorkel. There is an intake tube in the fender I should have removed before drilling the hole, lesson learned. Hardest part was getting the rubber hose onto the air box. Once that was done, it was cake.

I did not drill the A Pillar. I used some VHB tape to attach the bracket. That, along with the 5 studs through the fender, should be fine. If I need to drill the pillar at a later time, it will mean taking off the snorkel, but not the end of the world.

habanero
06-26-2017, 08:08 PM
Nice work, the printed grill is a very nice touch.

RobG
07-02-2017, 11:38 AM
Looks Great Sean! So when do the water forging tests start?

Seanz0rz
07-02-2017, 11:44 AM
Thanks!

Hopefully I will never test it in water! I finally got it back on the road Wednesday night after finding both heater tees cracked. Mechanic who replaced the engine over tightened the hose clamps. They were just over 1 year old. I replaced with metal tees and constant tension hose clamps. Now that's done, I still need to do an oil change, tire rotation, and to reset the preload on the front wheel bearings. Someday...

Seanz0rz
11-10-2017, 05:17 PM
Gamiviti roof rack:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/38289559422_142928c532_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21kw12C)

Went with the Expo++ with light bar drop and bare metal.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4547/38289559132_a7962c0703_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21kvZWC)

Just realized I don't have a picture installed on the truck, so I will have to get one tomorrow.

I 3D printed some brackets for my rack-mounted turn signals:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4517/37605512634_4548a85866_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Zi55Ku)

RobG
11-10-2017, 07:55 PM
Looks Good Sean,

So does it come in 3 pieces and you weld it together?

Seanz0rz
11-10-2017, 09:47 PM
One piece. I was welding on the light tabs to match my light bar.

Seanz0rz
11-12-2017, 03:20 PM
Why does everything take 5x longer than it should?

Got the turn signals installed on the rack and wired up.

Entered the body through the tailgate harness. I just cut into the plastic and pushed my wire up through then taped it back up. Worked great!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/38372363931_edbf4c534e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21sQoVz)

I tapped the input to the trailer harness for my left and right turn signals. I also ran a wire up for a future 3rd brake light on the rack.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/38372367721_d757d7ae15_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21sQq3V)

Used a 4-pin waterproof connector so I can disconnect the rack from the vehicle cleanly.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4553/24502002328_a0750ae47c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DkaaE1)

I still have some wire to clean up but this will get me through the next few months until I can finalize all of the rack wiring.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4548/37658656384_3c51c059bd_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZnLsx3)

Lights are plenty bright for daylight and at night really perform.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/24501998788_613c5751ba_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Dka9AY)

4x4mike
11-13-2017, 09:41 AM
Nice looking rack. Great job on the lights as well.

Seanz0rz
11-13-2017, 10:05 AM
Nice looking rack.

That's what he said.

Thanks. Still alot more work to do but it's getting there.

paddlenbike
11-13-2017, 03:24 PM
Nice job Sean. It's starting to look more like "your" rig.

Seanz0rz
11-14-2017, 05:08 PM
Thanks!

Today I put in LED Tail/Brake and Turn bulbs in the rear. Very nice! Pictures are useless for lights. Put in a digital flasher as well. I have on order LEDs for the front, as well as some good halogens for the headlights that will hopefully be better than the HIDs I have in there now. I have new housings waiting for a projector swap, but that is a bit down the road. Probably a good winter project. Or summer...

paddlenbike
11-15-2017, 12:38 PM
Today I put in LED Tail/Brake and Turn bulbs in the rear. Very nice! Pictures are useless for lights. Put in a digital flasher as well. I have on order LEDs for the front, as well as some good halogens for the headlights that will hopefully be better than the HIDs I have in there now. I have new housings waiting for a projector swap, but that is a bit down the road. Probably a good winter project. Or summer...

I thought all the LX470s had HIDs? Maybe the projector headlights made me assume so.

Seanz0rz
11-15-2017, 02:38 PM
Unfortunately, none had HID headlights. And the projectors are garbage, even with halogens. 2 dim candles stuck to the front of 5600 pounds

paddlenbike
11-15-2017, 03:01 PM
Unfortunately, none had HID headlights. And the projectors are garbage, even with halogens. 2 dim candles stuck to the front of 5600 pounds

How are the projectors held in the light assembly? It would be nice if you could retro some Acura TSX or Honda S2000 projectors in their place....those are awesome factory HID systems.

Seanz0rz
11-15-2017, 04:54 PM
People used to use SC430 projectors. Some guy on Mud started making some brackets for the MiniH1 projectors. Also has some D2S brackets but he is not selling them. I'll go with a quad swap so I'll have 4 bi-xenon projectors and a stupid amount of light.

corax
11-15-2017, 05:52 PM
I have a box with about a half dozen RX350 HID projectors collecting dust in my garage (low beam) - any use for them?

4x4mike
11-17-2017, 08:29 AM
Sean,
So it came with factory projectors and you dropped in some HID's?

Seanz0rz
11-17-2017, 12:11 PM
Keith, I don't have much use for them. I know they are sought after. I'll hit you up on back channels.

Mike, it has factory halogen projectors. They are bad enough with the bulbs they were designed around. If you put HID bulbs in it, they output is more, but quality is less. The solution to that problem is to swap in projectors designed for an HID bulb. I'll be using the same projectors I used in my 4runner swap. The output is very good. Especially for the price/labor.

paddlenbike
11-20-2017, 08:03 AM
I'm a big fan of HIDs. I've seen comparisons that describe the difference in lumens between halogen and HID, but those numbers collect the amount of light at one location in front of the vehicle and do not account for just how wide the field of view is with HID compared to halogen. It's like a factor of three or more.

The Acura TSX I had was known for having some of the best factory HIDs available (as evidenced by the number of swaps that use these lenses), and while the German-made Bosch units in the van aren't as good as the Acura, the van is up high and thus the light travels further before it is cutoff by the cutoff shield inside the housing of the projector. So as good as HIDs are, I feel like you can take far more advantage of the available light when it's in a vehicle that sits up high. That makes the 4Runner (or LC) a perfect candidate.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/381/31896318512_e2d7df465a_b.jpg

There is a streetlight behind me in the photo, but the light out front is from the headlights. Had this photo been taken from the 4Runner, only the fence and perhaps a little to the side would be illuminated, and it would have been dim and much more yellow-ish in color. The 4Runner will get HIDs someday

Seanz0rz
11-20-2017, 05:24 PM
The 3rd gen 4Runner is SOOO easy to swap! You can go all out, but for about $300, you can have an amazing retrofit. Mine are not really all that pretty, but the function is excellent.