Rear 3rd Member Studs Replaced with Button Head Bolts?

[Seanz0rz]

My rear 3rd member has been leaking for years, it is leaking through the threads on the studs. I plan on pulling the axle to fix the leak soon and actually bought new studs a few years ago. I am actually thinking that using a button head screw installed from the inside to use as a more robust stud.

Has anyone done this and has a McMaster PN or specs on the screw? I can figure it out but don't have much free time to go digging before the weekend.

Thanks!

[YotaFun]

I'll be watching this, I have had the same issure as well.
I believe it is something like this you are looking to do correct?
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-toyota-differential-stud-eliminator-kit-140056-1-kit.html

[Seanz0rz]

Exactly that.

I did find an old stud, M8 - 1.25 x 37mm

[Kryptoroxx]

I've got the list. Hang on a minute. This is one of the greatest upgrades known to mankind

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[Seanz0rz]

You rock!

If I order today, I should have them tomorrow! Thanks!

[Kryptoroxx]

Couldn't find my list so I pulled it from Pirate 4x4 where I got my list. I think all of the serial numbers were correct if memory serves. Check them though lol. A fair warning that this modification takes a long while. Screwing the buttonheads in from the backside takes a while. I think it took me an hour to do all of the holes. I also tried to use the same system for the longer bolts but there's no way to get them to thread from the backside sadly.

McMaster PNs
Socket Cap Screws Class 10.9 $9.28/25
PN 91239A442
Lock Washers $2.89/100
PN 91169A200
Nuts $8.81/100
PN 90685A045
Permatex Ultra Grey ~$6

Total 26.98 and enough to do more then 2 axles.

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks! I have nuts and washers, so I just need the bolts. I will buy the zinc played ones to avoid the rust on black oxide.

[Bob98SR5]

I have this issue too. Watching this thread as well

[Seanz0rz]

I ordered these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#91352a158/=16vwyvy

I also have new long studs for the elocker, though I might end up welding up the holes and redrilling, trying to get those straighter than I did when I did it the first time.

[Dawa]

I just received a '98 pearl dark blue 5sp runner, haven't done allot of off roading;

So, do the stock "wheel studs" become ripped out if the hub's when you threaten to pull the wheels off by wheeling, this is the fix that y'all are talking about?

Thanks
Newb


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[malteserunner]

Perhaps a thread sealant could be used on these bolts??

[malteserunner]

I just received a '98 pearl dark blue 5sp runner, haven't done allot of off roading;

So, do the stock "wheel studs" become ripped out if the hub's when you threaten to pull the wheels off by wheeling, this is the fix that y'all are talking about?

Thanks
Newb


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Welcome, Dawa. These guys are discussing differential studs, not wheel studs.

[Dawa]

Aha, thanks!

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[Seanz0rz]

Perhaps a thread sealant could be used on these bolts??

That is the real problem here. The factory studs have a thread sealant on them. When I removed the diff to do an elocker swap, I removed the studs and did not properly seal them when I reassembled. It has been leaking ever since (2007?).

Dawa,

I have yet to see a complete failure of wheel studs on these vehicles. If you are missing some, or feel they may have been damaged, it is pretty cheap preventative maintainence. Otherwise, it is not necessary.

The lower ball joint and 4 bolts connecting it to the steering knuckle, those fail all the time and should probably be inspected and replaced, especially the bolts, as they are very often over torqued.

[Robinhood4x4]

Hmm...must be user error. My elocker diff studs are bone dry after 10+ years! Now where's that flipoff icon...:cool:

[Seanz0rz]

100% user error!

[Kryptoroxx]

I ordered these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#91352a158/=16vwyvy

I also have new long studs for the elocker, though I might end up welding up the holes and redrilling, trying to get those straighter than I did when I did it the first time.

Lol I remember seeing pictures of those I think.


I just received a '98 pearl dark blue 5sp runner, haven't done allot of off roading;

So, do the stock "wheel studs" become ripped out if the hub's when you threaten to pull the wheels off by wheeling, this is the fix that y'all are talking about?

Thanks
Newb


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No we are talking about the 3rd member. It's the pumpkin in the middle. It doesn't pull out but over time it will tend to seep a little oil unless the seal is perfect.

Many things break before wheel studs thank goodness.

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[Seanz0rz]

http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10571-3rd-member-nut-torque-possible-FSM-mistake&highlight=diff+torque

3 years later and I run into this problem again. Going for 30 ftlbs this time.

[YotaFun]

http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?10571-3rd-member-nut-torque-possible-FSM-mistake&highlight=diff+torque

3 years later and I run into this problem again. Going for 30 ftlbs this time.

I remember this conversation too lol!
Hopefully works out.

[YotaFun]

I also tried to use the same system for the longer bolts but there's no way to get them to thread from the backside sadly.

Looks like McMaster has threaded rod.
I have alway had issues with the longer studs staying in or stripping out.
MAybe with something here we could thread a rod through and then a nut and lock washer on the back side with some thread locker give us another option?

[Kryptoroxx]

Looks like McMaster has threaded rod.
I have alway had issues with the longer studs staying in or stripping out.
MAybe with something here we could thread a rod through and then a nut and lock washer on the back side with some thread locker give us another option?
That could work but the clearence would have to be checked. It might work but to be honest I haven't had my diff off in a year....but it also hasn't been leaking

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[Seanz0rz]

Putting nuts on the back side of the long elocker studs might hit the locker fork. I know you have to lock the diff to remove and install it, otherwise the fork hits the housing. Maybe a thin nut might work?

[Robinhood4x4]

I think putting nuts on the back side is a bad idea. Too much risk for one to come loose and then that $.10 nut would take out your entire diff. I wouldn't trust any thread locker or nylok nut. The only way I would trust it is if you weld it on.

[4x4mike]

My retrofit doesn't leak but I'm now wishing I had put some thread sealer on the studs. At the time I was doing my work I was thinking about using this kit: http://www.trail-gear.com/product/4659/differential-stud-eliminator-kit#.WNkbKfnytpg

but changed my mind. Sean, do you think your seal went bad? Or that your studs stretched?

[Seanz0rz]

I know for sure it was leaking through the bottom elocker stud and 1 other standard stud. I'm guessing once I pulled them out to do the modification, they no longer sealed.