2012 GRJ71 4.0L V6 powered 70/71 series Landcruiser Maintenance

[B4_685]

Hey guys - not sure if there’s a dedicated thread for this series but I have a ‘71 Series short wheelbase Land Cruiser with solid axles and was looking for a thread to post to.




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[B4_685]

DRAG LINK end replacement:


Remove steering damper bolt (17mm) from the drag link end.

Remove balljoint cotter pins and castle nuts (19mm).

Invert Castle Nuts and re-thread them
on loosely and use a tie rod end puller to pop joints out of pitman arm and knuckle by putting tension on the bolts and sharply hitting the pitman arm/knuckle with a heavy hammer to shock it loose. The castle nut prevents damage to the threads if you are rebuilding the units as well as protecting your feet when the joints separate violently.

Clamp drag link rod assembly in a vice and loosen the retainer clamps. (Tip:-Measure length/threads for ease in re-installation. I used a paint marker)

Use a pipe wrench to remove threaded ends. (PB blaster or homemade ATF/Paint Thinner (50/50) worked for me to help unthreading.)

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Part numbers for info:

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Thread in new link ends and re-fit bar to vehicle. (Measure thread depth to where old links were) Ensure that you brake-clean all bores prior to assembly to ensure proper fitment and friction during reassembly of tapered joints.

Mount balljoints using supplied hardware and torque them to spec. (67 ft-Lb). Fit new cotter pins.

Reattach steering stabilizer - I had to repeat this twice as some grease had got into the tapered joint - clean it out and tap the end with a brass drift to ensure a snug fit. It also helps if you wire brush the threads and apply a small amount of wd40 to the thread only. Torque to spec : (54 ft-Lb)

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To align steering wheel : ensure drag link end clamps are loosened. Jack front end up and align wheels to where they are pointed straight. Check steering wheel angle. Twist drag link bar to adjust left-right angle of steering wheel to tire relationship. Tighten bar clamps when satisfied. Alignment should not change as the toe rod in the rear is responsible for toe in/out.

Grease ball joints then test drive and re-adjust as necessary.


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[4x4mike]

I don't think there is a dedicated location for your rig, unfortunately. I had to google your model, looks like a great machine. Do you have a 2 door or 4 door? Where are you located?

[B4_685]

I don't think there is a dedicated location for your rig, unfortunately. I had to google your model, looks like a great machine. Do you have a 2 door or 4 door? Where are you located?

Hey mike,

Expat working in the Middle East - 2 door version - hard to come by as they are definately a utility vehicle minus the bed. Very solidly built and nimble - used for desert offroading :)


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[B4_685]

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Auburn Gear Pro 9.5” cone style LSD takes a thrashing in the desert - pictured one is chipped after LSD spring retainer failed sending bits into ring. Once cleaned and repaired with new retainers and springs, re-installed this unit and it’s running perfectly (despite chip).

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Replacing radius arm bushings:
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[4x4mike]

Very cool, I like it. Appears to be a stout little rig.

[B4_685]

Auburn Gear Pro series 9.5’ spring retainer let go - thanks to Jeremy from justdifferentials for arranging a repair kit for me:

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Failure point is the thinnest section around the spider gear pin.

Repair: remove carrier from third member after cracking loose the ring gear bolts.

Remove ring gear to access the window in the carrier.

Fabricate a set of plates that will sandwich the new retainers, compressing them so it can be tapped in to place - sounds easy but took all day [emoji849] - had to buy a heavy duty G-Clamp as the springs when compressed exert a shitload of force. TIP - use a vice to compress them then use the clamp to hold it and position the sandwich so you can tap it into place. Also, I used some old brake pads (from the front disc brakes) and removed the brake lining with an air hammer. You need high carbon steel as it will have to be stout in order to keep the springs compressed while you tap it into the window of the carrier. Dont use mild steel cos it will deform when you release the vice.

Once the sandwich is in place, reassemble and torque to spec - doing that tomorrow cos its 45 deg outside and I’m beat [emoji29]

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Dad Checking runout after setting backlash
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Final assembly
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[B4_685]

Time to re-gas Icon shocks with Argon instead of Nitrogen [emoji41]
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[B4_685]

Dropped the diff oil and swapped the third member with my spare after hearing a wierd noise in the rear end - spring retainer broken at the thin point near the cross pin. Luckily had a rebuilt spare pre-loaded with new hardware and lashed correctly to put in [emoji2937]

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2012 Land Cruiser 71

[B4_685]

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Tested out new diy ramps

Water pump was weeping and making wierd noises on deceleration. Replaced pump, idlers, tensioner pulley bearing, belt and thermostat. Also replaced radiator cap to top it off.....
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Removed shroud and fan
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120,000km time for a new water pump
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New pump
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Tensioner pulley and idlers were very worn
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Popped em out to find out that the bearings were not easy to source locally - except the tensioner which I pressed in. Had to pay dealer prices for new idlers...
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Tensioner pulley
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New pump, 3 new idlers and a new tensioner bearing back in
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2012 Land Cruiser 71

Edit: idler bearing and belt details:

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[4x4mike]

Very cool. Thanks for sharing.