Fuel tank

[Ric]

What are your thoughts, Im needing to either replace my fuel tank with a stock one, or, have one built (with a skid plate) I would rather have one built, so that it can be any size I chose, (maybe 18-25 gal.s) but if i go that route, what about the sending unit ? will it read corectly on the dashgauge ?
If i just replace the stock tank, then i would have to have a nice skid plate made, and it will still sit really low, as we all know :hillbill:


What would you do ??? and why ?

[neliconcept]

Since I saw your design, I think it could go either way, but if you do the sensor right and get a great readout from that to the gauge and maybe gain some more capacity in the mean time, i think a rear mount tank would be a better bet and may increase some clearence and departure angles. Stock tank is just easier to replace so its always an idea as if you def need it now that would be the way to go but im not sure how bad yours is, even though im sure its bad how you drive lol

[sschaefer3]

I would replace your tank with a stock one and build a really nice skid for it. At first I used to pound out the stock one. Then I made one out of 1/8" and still had to pound dents out of it. Finally after the Rubicon I made one out of 3/16" with dual (double) 3/4" DOM tubes instead of the stock mounting brackets on all 5 mounting points. I have never had to deal with it since. That was 2+ years ago. Problem is that the gas tank skid was a labor of love, it is gorgeous and there is only one. If you were to sell it, no one would buy it as it took to much time to build it and it was a very complex build.

Then again I have 4" of rear lift, but that is not all that rare these days with all these IFS trucks with 80 coils out back. They have the same lift as I do. Those FJ60/62 leafs climb so good it us unreal. A 3" wide spring under leaf does not wrap what so ever and still has 10+" of travel,most of it up, which really confuses people. The FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60, FJ62 were some awesome Toyota Trucks and I am extremely proud to bring what they had to a 1999 4Runner. My swap was nothing more than re-building the 4Runner into an FJ55/FJ60/FJ62. Some truly great vehicles still in use today all over the world even though then have not been made for years.

[Ric]

Blake,
Ive been told by a yota guy, that the gauge on the dash is read electronicly, as long as the float, sending unit is placed somewhat in the center of a custom tank, it should read right. but he wasnt possitive.

Steve,
Im so glad you replied, i know you have beat the,, well you know what out of yours and taken on trails that Im still scared to run, lol
thats some great advice, I may end up doing what you said, i appreciate the insight about making it out of 3/16 and using DOM tubing :thumbup:
Steve, do you think if I did a 2" bodylift, I could somehow raise the stock (a new one) up maybe an inch ? i was under there the other day, and "looks" like it could be done, but Im not a fab guy, you have the experiance fabbing, not me :hillbill:

again, i appreciate the thoughts.

[neliconcept]

ahh gotcha, I really dont know anything about it so I couldnt give you the correct insight you need, however you have plenty of knowledge here to help out. You know if you need help with it when im out there, I will definitely lend a hand.

[Bighead]

Blake,
Ive been told by a yota guy, that the gauge on the dash is read electronicly, as long as the float, sending unit is placed somewhat in the center of a custom tank, it should read right. but he wasnt possitive.

Steve,
Im so glad you replied, i know you have beat the,, well you know what out of yours and taken on trails that Im still scared to run, lol
thats some great advice, I may end up doing what you said, i appreciate the insight about making it out of 3/16 and using DOM tubing :thumbup:
Steve, do you think if I did a 2" bodylift, I could somehow raise the stock (a new one) up maybe an inch ? i was under there the other day, and "looks" like it could be done, but Im not a fab guy, you have the experiance fabbing, not me :hillbill:

again, i appreciate the thoughts.

If you throw a body lift on there are you going to keep a stock skid plate? If so, then every little bit of ground clearance will help but I don't know how hard it would be to raise the tank. If you are going to use a beefier gas tank skid plate then I wouldn't worry about trying to tuck the tank up any higher.

I have one of Steve's old gas tank skids but have not installed it yet. Now that I have the LC coils in the rear, I decided to see how the stock skid holds up with the additional ground clearance I have in the back. If it starts taking a beating again, then I'll put the beefier one on.

[SteveO]

Raising the gas tank is a major PITN.
There is a crossbar that the fill tube for the gas tank goes over.
Take a look at this picture, and you can see a round bar that goes from fram rail to frame rail.
http://www.hunt4steve.com/OR/99_4Runner_Ltd/RrSusp/leafs/16a_.JPG (http://www.hunt4steve.com/OR/99_4Runner_Ltd/RrSusp/leafs/16a.JPG)

You would have to work around this bar, or cut it out to raise the tank. I had considered this when I had my tank off. But, removing this bar or tampering with it means a lot of work, and possible reducing the strength of your frame.

With my rig riding on 37" tires, I don't worry about ground clearance anymore. :hillbill:

[Ric]

i greatly appreciate all the insight,and thoughts, (even the pics :D )please keep them coming.

Blake,
you aint kidding about the knowledge here, thats why Im asking here :thumbup:

Bighead,
yes, i will be replaceing the stock skidplate, Im thinking real hard about what Steve said. With the DOM tubing as braces.

SteveO,
Im wondering if once the tank is out, would it possible to add some sort of spacer where it mounts ? raising the tank an inch or so ? then with a real skid plate, it should be good.
love the pic, lol

[Ric]

anyone know where to buy a replacement tank ? other than the dealer lol, i thought i had a site saved, but cant find it.

[Cheese]

I have moved my tank, personally.

I have a custom fuel cell, custom sending unit, custom vented blah, blah, blah, personally.

I also have a 4-link with coilovers on a rock crawler.

My advice? There is no reason, absolutely none at all short of pure lust to move the tank on your truck as it sits. I guarantee you will be farther ahead putting a good skid plate on the stocker and just dealing with hitting it.

Moving the tank is a pain, building a custom tank is mucho spendy, there is some tinkering that goes with a custom sending unit to make the stock gauge work, or you can get an aftermarket gauge.

This doesn't even begin to scratch the surface of emissions. My truck is still registered in Wisconsin...

[Ric]

Cheese,
i appreciate your thoughts, and wisdom, Im pretty sure Ill just be keeping it in the stock location, i just need a new tank, mine is soo busted up, dented, the gauge dont even work anymore, Im thinking Ill end doing what Steve suggested, with the DOM tubing braces.
but still needing a tank, lol and probley wouldnt hurt to get a replacement sending unit/float.

My original thought was to have a tank built, built with a skid plate, then use a sending unit/pump from something that had a stock tank the same size, in hopes the gauge would read correctly, but as you said, it gets spendy, lol. And we are thinking about buying a house, so there goes my modding money.

and this folks, is why i love this place, so much wisdom.. thankx to all of you for sharing your thoughts and experiances. :thumbup:

[Cheese]

A custom sending unit is easily sourced and not so expensive.

Paying someone to break and weld Aluminum in some odd ball custom shape after nuking a bunch of structural frame parts and then reconstructing something to hold that much fuel will not happen cheap, fast or easy.

You would be much better off trying to mangle the stock sender or ordering custom.

This stuff is a pain if you do it yourself. On a rack with good tools, I would just do it and gripe. If you are paying someone, have them make it in the shape of the Toyota emblem, it isn't your headache at that point.

[Mossyrocks]

Ive toyed with the idea lately and I've decided to just replace mine with another stocker and skid the hell out of it. Mine only fills up to 5/8ths now (roundabout) and it keeps wondering into my D/S :)

The only reason I considered moving it is because of that awful yota lean which is only gonna be worse with a big skid under it, but I guess Ill make do.

[sschaefer3]

You can't really raise the tank for the extra room in a body lift as stated due to that round tube. I did raise the front 1/2" when I cut that cross member out and rebuilt it with the Front Range one and the tube I put back in. Remember the crawler puts everything back a lot further, there saw no more room left.

Just make a good skid out of 3/16" follow the contour of the tank and you'll never have to worry about it again. If you hug it tight enough and get your rear drive shaft re-tubed with .120 wall DOM of a slightly smaller diameter, that will be gone as well.

It is a fairly complex thing to make but your buddy can do it, just be prepared for a shop bill with some time on it. Another Denver area shop made another guy an 1/8" one and billed him $750.00. Now you know why I never made any for sale.

[Ric]

Steve,
again, thankx man, IMO $750 is nothing compaired to running out of gas, or almost running out, (a few times now)Im pretty sure Im gonna go with your suggestion, and just skid it like crazy, with the DOM tubing.
Id rather pay for it once, and never worry about it again. :thumbup:

[Mossyrocks]

Im thinking of taking off my fror skid and belly panning the whole thing to be honest.

Might be worth looking into since your gonna have a lot of labor under there. No point in doing it twice.

[sschaefer3]

The only 2 skids I have on this my 4Runner are the skid under the T-case, as I cracked that open already being a spaz on Chinamans and the gas tank skid. The T-Case skid I need because the Front Range cross member just holds the drive train, it does not and was not designed to take hits. He makes a nice skid for a Tacoma, but a 4Runner is really different so you have to make your own.

Yeah I think it would be wise not to "overskid" just skid what you need to skid. The tube I used was 3/4" OD DOM and I welded two side by side to you wound up with a double tube 3/4" x 1.5" piece. 5 legs/arms what ever you want to call them on a 3/16" pan has proven to be maintenance free.

All I do is take the 4Runner out on the trail, run it, drive it home and park it for 2 weeks and then do it again. I typically drive the red truck around as it's easier to get into, load and everything else.

I sold our FJ-62 yesterday, it's going to Baja California to be used as a Surf Wagon. Now I am down from 4 fully locked and built trucks to 3. That is a good thing. Someday I'll even post pics of the Rock Buggy, since you were in the Military I bet you'll think it's cool. It's different that's for sure.

[Mossyrocks]

Ive got the fror xmember and skid under mine with minor trimming of the xmember. No body lift. Skid went in just fine, but its the 3.4 auto. Not real sure about the 2.7s under the runners.

[sschaefer3]

The crawler made it more complex, the white 96 I swapped, installing the crossmember was really easy. He still needs a skid for the thing and a crawler. Then I guess I get to "re-do" it.

:confused:

[Mossyrocks]

I looked under mine today and wondered about that... It does change things a bit.

I am gonna be installing a crawler one day, long ways down the list but at least its on the list.