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limited924runner
06-03-2007, 08:40 PM
ok here is the deal i have a 1992 toyota 4runner 3.0l v6 with a 5spd. this last winter when it was really cold the truck would not start would turn over but not fire first thought was water in the tank or moister in the lines frozen once it warmed up the truck started right up with no problems so we had another cold front coming in and so i filled the tank and added fuel line antifreeze and once again once it hit and was below freezing it would not fire again and as soon as it warmed up started right up and worked great. i have not had any problems until today my wife was driving it and it was between 85 and 90 degrees out today here in portland and she was driving it just died so she started it back up it idled for a second and died i got there started it up and reved it and the second i hit the gas it choked and died started it and died then it wouldnt start any more so i towed it with my f250 and while i was being towed kept poping it into gear trying to start it and nothing so about 7pm once it cooled down outside a bit i went out and it fired right up it is like when ever it is really cold or really hot it is not getting fuel the truck has a newish fuel filter just did a tune up in november any advise would be amazing thanks a bunch

ok so i just got around to checking in to the truck and seeing if i could figure it out i removed the cover over the fuel pump so i could hear it runing from in the truck and i started the truck and let it warm up and once warmed up i herd the fuel pump just stop and the engine died so i turned the key off and started it again the fuel pump ran for about 5-10 secs and turned off again... what could be causing the fuel pump to cut out?

Tofer
06-03-2007, 09:36 PM
damn using the "W" word already....

Robinhood4x4
06-03-2007, 09:51 PM
Perfect timing because I just read about this in TLCA mag. The pump gets power from a relay that in turn gets a signal from two sources. One is the air flow meter and the other is the ignition when the key is turned to "start". If the engine stalls, the relay shuts off power to the pump so it doesn't get flooded and reduces fire risk. I'd say the easiest place to start is checking the relay. Also check the fuse as the contacts can get oxidized preventing a good signal. Both of these causes can be heat related.

Another heat related problem is the pump itself. It could be just getting old and time for a new one. Keeping the tank full can help cool down the pump, but that's just a bandaid fix until you replace it. From the article, " If it is the pump that is the problem, this normally progresses to a rig that stalls at idle and does not want to restart and finally to one which stalls at speed."

Hope that helps. Oh and use punctuation.

limited924runner
06-04-2007, 09:58 AM
Perfect timing because I just read about this in TLCA mag. The pump gets power from a relay that in turn gets a signal from two sources. One is the air flow meter and the other is the ignition when the key is turned to "start". If the engine stalls, the relay shuts off power to the pump so it doesn't get flooded and reduces fire risk. I'd say the easiest place to start is checking the relay. Also check the fuse as the contacts can get oxidized preventing a good signal. Both of these causes can be heat related.

Another heat related problem is the pump itself. It could be just getting old and time for a new one. Keeping the tank full can help cool down the pump, but that's just a bandaid fix until you replace it. From the article, " If it is the pump that is the problem, this normally progresses to a rig that stalls at idle and does not want to restart and finally to one which stalls at speed."

Hope that helps. Oh and use punctuation.





rofl there was a ? at the end. thanks a bunch i found out the pump it self has a thermal switch in it so when it heats up it shuts off. i am pretty sure this is the problem thank again for your help though.