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View Full Version : Question on timing belt, water pump and etc



mkgarrison5
06-05-2007, 05:28 AM
hey guys. gotta 02 tacoma xtra cab 4x4 with the 3.4 v6. its getting ready to turn over 90k miles so the 100k mile mark is coming soon probably by late summer. as far as timing belt area related the stuff below is what i am going to have done to it

timing belt changed
new water pump
new thermostat
new upper and lower hose

any other ideas? i figured they would last another 100k miles when i get that done.

MTL_4runner
06-05-2007, 05:35 AM
Nope that looks good to me.
If the belts need changing too, that would be the time to do them as well.

mkgarrison5
06-05-2007, 06:22 AM
oh yeah i meant to add that too. they have tiny cracks in them and they make a lot of noise after a good rain.

MTL_4runner
06-05-2007, 06:40 AM
oh yeah i meant to add that too. they have tiny cracks in them and they make a lot of noise after a good rain.


The tiny cracks on the V-grooves definately signal time for replacement.

gpcollen
06-05-2007, 07:42 AM
You may consider this part of the hoses mentiones but replacing the clamps at the same is a good idea. In addition, I had the small hose off the thermostat housing / WP leak after I did mine. Change that hose and clamp too if inclined.

Badlands
06-05-2007, 09:58 AM
Did everything on your list AND the belts.

-B

mkgarrison5
06-05-2007, 10:27 AM
thanks guys. i just got a an estimate back at around 500- 550$ for water pump, t-belt, driving belts, and thermostat installed... not too bad since it will be done again in another 100k miles.. if my truck lasts that long lol

mkgarrison5
06-05-2007, 12:19 PM
also the yota guys told me to hold off on the upper and lower hoses. he said that he rarely sees them go bad less than 150-200k miles.. ill just keep an eye on them.

MTL_4runner
06-05-2007, 02:55 PM
also the yota guys told me to hold off on the upper and lower hoses. he said that he rarely sees them go bad less than 150-200k miles.. ill just keep an eye on them.


I'd agree with that.

Albuquerque Jim
06-05-2007, 04:04 PM
I think it is recommended to replace the cam seals, crank seal, the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner at the same time. :thumbup:

gpcollen
06-05-2007, 04:11 PM
I think it is recommended to replace the cam seals, crank seal, the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner at the same time. :thumbup:


All of mine were fine at 125K

mkgarrison5
06-06-2007, 05:48 AM
I think it is recommended to replace the cam seals, crank seal, the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner at the same time. :thumbup:


if i had the $$ i would but i may wait till 200k miles to do that stuff.. i need to keep it as simple and as cheap as possible.

MTL_4runner
06-06-2007, 06:13 AM
if i had the $$ i would but i may wait till 200k miles to do that stuff.. i need to keep it as simple and as cheap as possible.


I've mentioned this before, but I would wait on that stuff too. Most of the time if you change your oil regularly and the motor hasn't been overheated, the seals will last well past 300k miles before they begin to leak/weep. To add to that, the best install job on the seals is usually done at the factory. So when a mechanic replaces them and happens to damage one in the process of installation (we're all human), you can have a leak develop later even with a brand new seal. I would recommend to tell the mechanic to only replace the seals if they are visibly leaking/weeping and otherwise hold off. If the seals are still good even at your 3rd timing belt change (90-100k per interval), I'd say change them at that point.

Albuquerque Jim
06-06-2007, 08:32 AM
I think it is recommended to replace the cam seals, crank seal, the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner at the same time. :thumbup:


All of mine were fine at 125K
How do you determine if the tensioner and pulleys are still in good condition?

MTL_4runner
06-06-2007, 08:41 AM
How do you determine if the tensioner and pulleys are still in good condition?


That's alot harder, but I usually spin them by hand and if they are smooth with no audible noise and have no "gritty" feel to them when you apply pressure to them when spun, then they are probably ok to run until the next timing belt. There is obviously no guarantee on that though.

mkgarrison5
06-06-2007, 09:38 AM
can you tell by sound when the motor is running if the pulleys are going bad?? when it rains i hear mild sqeeling type noise but i think its just bc the belts need replacing but if they are tight they shouldnt be slipping

MTL_4runner
06-06-2007, 10:06 AM
can you tell by sound when the motor is running if the pulleys are going bad?? when it rains i hear mild squealing type noise but i think its just bc the belts need replacing but if they are tight they shouldn't be slipping


The timing belt doesn't slip at all so usually by the time you hear squealing actually coming from the timing belt area, you'd only hear it for a few seconds before the timing belt snapped from the heat generated by running over a seized idler pulley. :laugh:

Seriously, I'd bet money those are the accessory belts, not the timing belt that is squealing (the bearings may be noisy or howl when bad). I'd buy the idler pulleys anyway then you have them on hand if you need them when the T-belt gets replaced. If the idle pulleys are really bad enough to squeal, then you'd be able to feel that right away when turing the pulley by hand. If you don't use the parts, just return them to the dealer and get your money back when the job's done.

mkgarrison5
06-06-2007, 11:14 AM
can you tell by sound when the motor is running if the pulleys are going bad?? when it rains i hear mild squealing type noise but i think its just bc the belts need replacing but if they are tight they shouldn't be slipping


The timing belt doesn't slip at all so usually by the time you hear squealing actually coming from the timing belt area, you'd only hear it for a few seconds before the timing belt snapped from the heat generated by running over a seized idler pulley. :laugh:

Seriously, I'd bet money those are the accessory belts, not the timing belt that is squealing (the bearings may be noisy or howl when bad). I'd buy the idler pulleys anyway then you have them on hand if you need them when the T-belt gets replaced. If the idle pulleys are really bad enough to squeal, then you'd be able to feel that right away when turing the pulley by hand. If you don't use the parts, just return them to the dealer and get your money back when the job's done.



um did i say timing belt???? i meant drive belts sorry for the confusion i know the difference lol bad communication i guess... how much are the pulleys and at 90k miles you think they would really need replacing?? i ll just wait till i get the DRIVE belts put on before i decide with the pulleys lol

MTL_4runner
06-06-2007, 11:19 AM
how much are the pulleys?
No idea

and at 90k miles you think they would really need replacing??
Not likely but it's better to have them and not need them than vice versa.
If you're having a mechanic do the work then he can just get tham from the dealer as needed.


Answers in red.

mkgarrison5
06-06-2007, 11:27 AM
how much are the pulleys?

GOLDS
06-08-2007, 08:07 PM
I have done 2 timing belts on 3.4's so far. one on my old 96 runner and more recently on my 96 taco at 150k and 230k respectively. One thing to consider is that both times the bearing in the pulley that is on the tensioner arm was shot(noisey). I don't know if this is common... but I have seen it twice now

BruceTS
06-09-2007, 03:03 PM
If your gonna go through the trouble to replace the timming belt, then replace both pulleys at the same time. I have my kit ready to go, just waiting for the belt to break......

Timming belt
both Idler pulleys
water pump (new type with metal gasket)
thermostat
crank seal
Toyota red coolant