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paddlenbike
06-19-2007, 12:47 PM
So the transfer case decided to start leaking, literally overnight. The leak is coming from the output between the transfer case and the front driveshaft. Any ideas how difficult this is to repair? If it's anything like replacing the rear output seal on the back of the transmission on my Supra, it will require a special seal puller. Any ideas?

Ken

MTL_4runner
06-19-2007, 02:48 PM
I haven't done this on mine, but looking at the FSM it doesn't look too bad. After removing the driveshaft (and before you even get into doing the seal) check the play on the output shaft just to be sure it is in fact a seal issue and not bearing play. The seal should come out with a hammer and a big screwdriver. Installing the new seal you'll need to be careful not to damage the lip so it seals properly (if you need a drift to fully seat the seal, use a 1/4" or 3/8" socket extension that has well rounded edges). The seal should be should be pretty cheap from the dealer (about $10 or so) and make sure you put some oil on the seal lip and the shaft so you don't have a "dry start" which can prematurely damage a new seal. It also helps to have a big impact gun to get the staked nut off (use a punch or dremel tool to open up the staked portion first, then use the impact gun).

http://members.lycos.co.uk/morphiasx/truck/diag.jpg

PS Ken, you might want to add your truck specs to your sig line. :tapedshut:

paddlenbike
06-19-2007, 11:00 PM
Thanks Jaime. Found a link for an 03 Tacoma that should have the same xfer case as the 4Runner:
http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/tr/oilsea/comp.pdf

MTL_4runner
06-20-2007, 03:45 AM
Thanks Jaime. Found a link for an 03 Tacoma that should have the same xfer case as the 4Runner:
http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/tr/oilsea/comp.pdf


The way the seals are installed didn't change much so either should work fine. It would be great if you could take some pics and do a small writeup when you're done so we can see how you made out. :thumbup:

One more word of advice.....it's more expensive but get a new staked nut from the dealer when you do this because often you bugger up the old one pretty bad while taking it off. If you're lucky, when the old nut is tightened it will fall on a new section of the nut's edge and can be staked again, but sometimes it doesn't so it's always better to have one on hand just in case.

Mojo_Risin
01-16-2008, 02:52 PM
Bringing this to the top to see if you ever fixed your leak and how it went. I have the same issue right now and am wondering if it's a job I can handle or if I need "expert" help.

jjrgr21
01-16-2008, 05:14 PM
my 98' taco had that leak for 5 years

paddlenbike
01-17-2008, 07:57 AM
Bringing this to the top to see if you ever fixed your leak and how it went. I have the same issue right now and am wondering if it's a job I can handle or if I need "expert" help.


Yup, leak fixed. The repair was very straight-forward. Unbolt the four bolts connecting the front driveshaft to the companion flange on the transfer case, unstake the large nut and remove the companion flange assembly. I used a $5 seal puller at Harbor Frieight to remove the old seal and replace it with a new one.

Now, it sounds easy, but unstaking the nut is a serious PITA! Basically, you have a thick, heavy nut that is dented at the factory to keep it from moving. I don't know how they expect you to undent this thing; anything small enough to fit in there (like a screwdriver) will just break and anything larger just chips the metal away. I basically picked at the nut until I carved away the staking...took a whopping 2-3 hours for me to do just this part.

Perhaps someone here will have some grand idea how to deal with this issue, because I sure don't! (An air chisel would probably work great.)

Would I do it again? Absolutely. Just plan on spending some time on the staked nut. (Don't forget to buy a new nut from Toyota when you picking up the seal.)

MTL_4runner
01-17-2008, 08:27 AM
Now, it sounds easy, but unstaking the nut is a serious PITA! Basically, you have a thick, heavy nut that is dented at the factory to keep it from moving. I don't know how they expect you to undent this thing; anything small enough to fit in there (like a screwdriver) will just break and anything larger just chips the metal away. I basically picked at the nut until I carved away the staking...took a whopping 2-3 hours for me to do just this part.


The way I used to get those nuts off is to use a cutoff wheel (a dremel should be ok too but very slow going because the nut is thick) to grind the "dented" portion off and then use an impact gun to back the nut off the rest of the way. We would often reuse the nut again because they never would tighten to the same clocking again so a new portion of the nut would be made available to stake.

BruceTS
01-17-2008, 06:21 PM
I ground down a chisel to the same width as the slot, then left one side flat and tapered the other. You simply take a hammer and tap it between the nut and shaft to unstake. Usually takes about 2 minutes....

Bob98SR5
01-17-2008, 06:31 PM
Oh NOW you chime in with your good ideas, Bruce! :hillbill: :D

BruceTS
01-17-2008, 06:39 PM
LOL....... never dawned on me to say anything, since it's pretty much a routine thing....

I've always unstaked and reused those nuts.....

Tanto
01-17-2008, 08:49 PM
^^ Not everyone has the skills to swap an engine/tranny out in 2 hours, Bruce!

LOL

Mojo_Risin
01-29-2008, 01:35 PM
Thanks for the info - sorry for the delay in respones - never got a notification anyone replied...

Anyway.... What size is the nut that needs unstaked?

4x4mike
01-29-2008, 01:50 PM
It's 30 mm.

Seanz0rz
01-29-2008, 02:50 PM
It's 30 mm.


for someone who just bought their 4runner, that was a pretty good answer!!! go mike! (im not sure that its 30mm, but that would be about right in my mind.

20005spd
01-29-2008, 03:03 PM
i would get that nut from toyota. any ol 30mm that same thread would probably work, but its just a nut it wont be expensive.

4runnerchevy
01-29-2008, 06:28 PM
I have never had a serious problem with em'. All this talk has got me thinking about stripped nut on the steering box and what it was a hassle to get it. McMaster..no, Grainger...no, Lawson...no, Fastenal...no, Metric sites... No, Toyota... yes, not in stock. Got it ! Now I am thinking :headscratch: it is the same nut(a little different). Thanks !

4x4mike
01-30-2008, 07:53 AM
for someone who just bought their 4runner, that was a pretty good answer!!! go mike! (im not sure that its 30mm, but that would be about right in my mind.

Well I was there to see Ken work on his and I had a co-worker that had his actually fall off. It has been sitting on his desk for a couple of days. I thought I remember it being a 30mm but I meausred the one that was sitting around to make sure before I posted.

4x4mike
07-29-2010, 09:13 PM
Well it's a good thing that I know the size of the nut because it's my turn for this repair. Ken used my impact to yank his nut off so I know I have the socket and about how difficult the repair is. I'll try to take some pictures to update this thread.

paddlenbike
07-30-2010, 09:43 AM
That "nut" weighs about 2 lbs. Find some mean nasty tool in your garage and cut out the staked portion.

4x4mike
08-05-2010, 09:30 PM
Well I replaced my seals. There are 2 seals and one nut. I'll just post pics of the parts and their respective part numbers. This repair took all of 35 minutes and 20 of those minutes was wrestling the driveshaft. I dislocated my shoulder last month so it's not 100% and hurts when trying to support weight like bench pressing a 30 pound shaft. The staked nut was nothing, it took about 7 whacks with the first smacking device I picked up. After the whacks I put the impact to it and presto. Seal press tools are great for getting the seals in but are not necessary.

This seal goes in the flange.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_6hyBcEQWF14/TFuNtfydJGI/AAAAAAAAXn0/9aXfiYszxvk/s800/DSC08097.JPG


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_6hyBcEQWF14/TFuNzLdhoJI/AAAAAAAAXpE/hNc-WW-Fj78/s800/DSC08107.JPG



This is the bigger one you need a puller for. It came out on the first try and can actually be pushed in without tools.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_6hyBcEQWF14/TFuNvgQDxfI/AAAAAAAAXoU/sRG73n6fju4/s800/DSC08101.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_6hyBcEQWF14/TFuNwJG1Z5I/AAAAAAAAXoc/mzmRRk6OEtk/s800/DSC08102.JPG


Here is the nut. My old one looked brand new and it didn't get buggered up taking it out so I kept it just in case.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6hyBcEQWF14/TFuNuMgrN_I/AAAAAAAAXn8/essTHy5NGQE/s800/DSC08098.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6hyBcEQWF14/TFuNuo0t9zI/AAAAAAAAXoE/SRjNotgi1IM/s800/DSC08099.JPG