Cheap Power Brake Bleeder

[MTL_4runner]

This entire writeup should be credited to GSGALLANT since he came up with it! :thumbup:

After searching the threads to find out that the motive power bleeder was the best method to flush my brake system, I started making calls to try to find a power bleeder locally. After many calls, I found no local suppliers, and wanted to avoid paying full price + shipping + exchange on Canadian Dollar for one from the US, so I decided to try and figure out a way to make a tool that would essentially do the same thing.

What I came up with works (in my opinion) as well as I would expect the power bleeder to work, and only cost me $15 (Canadian) to build. I started off by buying:

- One flexible plumbing reducing coupling (the large end is just under 2" in diameter and is made to fit over 1 1/2" PVC pipe, and the small end fits over the 3/4" end of the 1/2" to 3/4" metal elbow.)
- One 1/2" to 3/4" metal elbow.
- One 1/2" metal nipple.
- One 1/4" to 1/2" metal reducing coupling.
- One 1/4" male quick connect fitting.
- You also need a source of compressed air with a pressure guage and regulator.

See this link for some photos -> Brake Bleeder Adapter (http://www.flickr.com/photos/10599256@N04/sets/72157601047473166/)

I assembled them together as shown in the photo called "Adapter".
The photo called "Reservoir" shows what the opening on my brake reservoir looks like.
The photo called "Adapter on Reservoir" shows the adapter installed on the reservoir.

Once I had the adapter built, I removed the cap on the brake reservoir and used a turkey baster to remove as much of the old brake fluid as I could. I then topped up the reservoir (above the max line) with new fluid.

Next, I installed the adapter to the reservoir (See image in link above), and connected my air compressor quick connect fitting to the adapter. I adjusted the regulator to 10-15 psi, then cracked open the rear passenger brake bleeding fitting and let the fluid flow until new fluid came out. I closed the bleeder, and repeated the same on the rear driver's side brakes.

Once the rear brakes were done (bled a little over half a liter of fluid out), I removed the adapter from the brake reservoir and topped the reservoir up again (the level had dropped to approximately the MIN line). I re-installed the adapter, re-adjusted the air regulator to 10-15 psi, then bled the front brakes (passenger side then driver's side).

Once the front brakes were done (bled a little over 1/4 of a liter of fluid out), I removed the adapter from the brake reservoir and topped the reservoir up again (the level had dropped to halfway between the MIN and MAX lines). I then re-installed the reservoir cap and called it a day. The whole process took approximately 1.5 hours (including removing and re-installing wheels.) I used 1 liter of brake fluid.

Hope this helps you guys. I definitely recommed this method for flushing your brakes. The adapter mentioned above will fit the reservoir on 2001 and 2002 4Runners with hydraulic brake boosters. The fill port on reservoirs on systems with vacuum brake boosters may be different.

[YotaFun]

Great write up!
Just have a quick question Jamie.
You said you tried this and it worked for you.
You have a 96 Runner with a vacuum brake booster.
Did the adapter as shown above work as well or did you have to modify yours?

[MTL_4runner]

No, I haven't tried it yet, I need to make one for mine. It should work fine as long as you get a solid seal on the reservoir neck. When I get the parts and build one for my 1996 soon so I'll post up if I needed to modify the recipe at all. In principle this bleeder will work on any vehicle which has a reservoir you can pressurize.

[firebane]

hmmm good idea but the only down fall is that of some people don't have compressed air but I can see how this would work, but I could come up with another idea that could make this work without compressed air.

And with the fitting instead of a elbow if you used a "T" you could theoretically put a resevoir on top to hold fluid that would be underpressure from the air and not have to worry about a top off.

[Erich_870]

hmmm good idea but the only down fall is that of some people don't have compressed air but I can see how this would work, but I could come up with another idea that could make this work without compressed air.

And with the fitting instead of a elbow if you used a "T" you could theoretically put a reservoir on top to hold fluid that would be underpressure from the air and not have to worry about a top off.


That's an interesting idea, but wouldn't that mean you'd over fill your reservoir, so taking the adaptor off would mean spilling all that extra fluid?  Maybe I'm not seeing it right in my head :)

You could probably find a connector that would allow you to use a bike pump if you didn't have a compressor :)

Erich

[MTL_4runner]

If anyone has any improvements to the design they did in practice, go ahead and post em up for everyone to benefit. I'm just going for the basic function at first, but if I figure out anything slick to add on I'll be sure to post pics and a writeup if necessary.

[Seanz0rz]

i see this ending up in a wiki at some point.

ill have to check it out on the 98 i have when i do the brakes later this summer.

thanks for the tip!

[firebane]

So this is my first idea without the secondary resevoir which would rely on you making sure your brake resevoir was full after each bleed... now you'd have to make sure you had enough line to reach the entire vehicle for the bleed but I can't see why it wouldn't work...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v394/thevagabond/brake.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

Firebane, build it and give it a test run for us. :thumbup:

PS You might want to add your truck specs to your sig too. :tapedshut:

[firebane]

heheh next week, I'm going on Vacation sorta heading your way.. to Winnipeg :D

[Bob98SR5]

jamie,

i have a writeup that is pending on this very topic! ill post pics later

bob

[CJM]

Interesting concept, truthfully I have bled brakes many ways. I tried a regular bleeder, a power bleeder, gravity bleeding and such.

Believe it or not, what works the best is still having 2 people do it and using one to pump and one to bleed.

[GSGALLANT]

Interesting concept, truthfully I have bled brakes many ways. I tried a regular bleeder, a power bleeder, gravity bleeding and such.

Believe it or not, what works the best is still having 2 people do it and using one to pump and one to bleed.

With all due respect, this method is way easier than having two people do the pump-hold-open-close-release and repeat method. I've tried it both ways also. Also, using this method, you ensure that you will not damage the seals in the master cylinder, which is possible while doing the pedal pump method if you allow the brake pedal to sink down lower than it typically does, and if there is any corrosion on the MC piston.

I have used the exact same adapter to bleed my friend's 99 Tacoma (3.4L with vacuum booster), as well as on my '93 4Runner (3.0L with vacuum booster).

If you don't have a compressor, buy a locking tire chuck to put on the end of the hose, and connect the hose to the valve on one of your tires. Instant compressed air source! The only downfall is you'll have to buy a pressure regulator also, so that you don't explode your brake fluid reservoir with the 30 psi in your tire. After you're done bleeding the brakes, use your bicycle pump to top up your tire pressure again (the bleeding process doesn't use much air volume at all).

By the way, Jamie... Thanks for reposting this here. I had it on Yotatech, but never thought to bring it over when I joined here.

[MTL_4runner]

I gotta agree with GS regarding manual bleeding vs power bleeding. I just finished building mine and it's basically a poor man's version of the air powered shop brake bleeders we used to use when I worked as a mechanic. The power bleeders are far more convienent and effective IMHO than the old pump and hold method and it makes a 2 man job into a one man job which is a huge plus if you're all by yourself.

The one I made from GS's directions fit my brake reservoir perfectly so it's pretty safe to say it fits all 3rd gens and may even fit all Toyotas since it seems that cap is a fairly standard size. I modified the design a bit in that I only used the flex coupler (about $6), the 3/4" to 1/2" elbow (about $2.50) and a 1/2" to 1/4" thread reducer (about $1.50). All said and done I was out the door for less than $10 CDN for the tool (I had an extra air hose coupler at home so the price of that isn't included, nor is the teflon tape I used to connect them all together). I just did a quick test with 10 psi air pressure and it held fine with no leaks so it should be all good for doing a little power bleeding this weekend.

[GSGALLANT]

The only reason I had to use a 1/2" nipple and a 1/2" to 1/4" coupling, was because Canadian Tire was out of 1/2" to 1/4" bushings... which you were able to find. I was in a rush, so I had to improvise. I'm never going to go back to the pump and hold method.

I actually had to bleed my brakes this week after I rebuilt my rear 3rd member and replaced the axle bearings and seals on my '93. 10 minutes from start to finish and I was done. Can't beat it.

[MTL_4runner]

I actually had to bleed my brakes this week after I rebuilt my rear 3rd member and replaced the axle bearings and seals on my '93. 10 minutes from start to finish and I was done. Can't beat it.


Nice, can't wait to give it a try myself! :thumbup:

[MTL_4runner]

The one I made from GS's directions fit my brake reservoir perfectly so it's pretty safe to say it fits all 3rd gens and may even fit all Toyotas since it seems that cap is a fairly standard size. I modified the design a bit in that I only used the flex coupler (about $6), the 3/4" to 1/2" elbow (about $2.50) and a 1/2" to 1/4" thread reducer (about $1.50). All said and done I was out the door for less than $10 CDN for the tool (I had an extra air hose coupler at home so the price of that isn't included, nor is the teflon tape I used to connect them all together). I just did a quick test with 10 psi air pressure and it held fine with no leaks so it should be all good for doing a little power bleeding this weekend.


I actually found that 15-20 psi worked best for me (don't go much more than that though!)

Here's what mine looks like:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/Tundra%20Brakes/4runnertundrabrakes008Large.jpg

Here's what I checked the pressure with:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/Tundra%20Brakes/4runnertundrabrakes009Large.jpg

[GSGALLANT]

Yeah, the fluid would definitely come out faster at 15-20 psi, but I get a bit nervous at pressures that high in a plastic container filled with messy brake fluid. I stick to about 7-10 psi, but it's all about what makes you comfortable.

I have to get one of those swivel connectors for the end of my hose also... those things are convenient.

[914Runner]

Do you guys have a problem with brake fluid shooting out of the coupler when you disconnect the house or how do you slowly de-pressurize the reservoir?

I think I might build one tomorrow, but have a regulator right on the bleeder so its easier to adjust the pressure than going back to the compressor. Would a open/close valve on the bleeder help at all?

Just some thoughts.

[MTL_4runner]

Yeah, the fluid would definitely come out faster at 15-20 psi, but I get a bit nervous at pressures that high in a plastic container filled with messy brake fluid. I stick to about 7-10 psi, but it's all about what makes you comfortable.

I have to get one of those swivel connectors for the end of my hose also... those things are convenient.


The safe range is really anything below 20 psi, but I agree 15 psi would be a good safe limit number to use and most of the time I had it pretty close to that. This is the same pressure range the big name bleeders (Snap-on, etc) use with the one exception that they usually have a chain under them to secure the device to the master cylinder and to create the seal. As long as you stay below 20 psi I'd say there was pretty much a zero chance of doing damage to the brake reservoir. I just found that the higher psi number seemed to free trapped air bubbles that much better (also hitting the caliper with a rubber mallet while bleeding helps too).

I don't know how I ever used my air tools without those swivels (esp the air ratchet). I got mine at Canadian Tire (Campbell Hausfeld brand) but I know Princess Auto hs them too.

[MTL_4runner]

Do you guys have a problem with brake fluid shooting out of the coupler when you disconnect the hose or how do you slowly de-pressurize the reservoir?

Nope, just pull the quick disconnect and it depressurizes instantly. The fluid stays right where it was.

I think I might build one tomorrow, but have a regulator right on the bleeder so its easier to adjust the pressure than going back to the compressor. Would a open/close valve on the bleeder help at all?

A better pressure regulator (ie on that goes between 0-30 psi for fine tuning) built on to the device would be a good idea. Perhaps one used for airbrushing would work well?! Hopefully someone will come up with a futher mod (cheap is the key) that accomplishes this. No, I don't think an open close valve would be helpful at all.

Just some thoughts.


Answers in red above.

[CJM]

Sorry to reply so late, 1 person yea its easier but the 2 person method has never failed me and most shops dont even bother with the little widget b/c its an unnecessary waste of cash, who only has 1 person at a shop?

I think its a good idea, but I can have a whole brake system bled and done with another person in about 5 minutes and I dont even have to get out from under the truck. I guess I am old fashioned, never ruined a seal either.

[garrett]

made mine! just need to get a regulator...

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/stingray1478/4Runner/Random/IMG_0452.jpg

[garrett]

would this same process work for bleeding the clutch MC and line?

[MTL_4runner]

would this same process work for bleeding the clutch MC and line?


Yes, just keep the pressure fairly low for that (5-10 psi).

[garrett]

what size tubing do i need to fit over the bleeder valves to direct the fluid?

[MTL_4runner]

what size tubing do i need to fit over the bleeder valves to direct the fluid?


I didn't use any myself, just put a nice size oil pan under the caliper or drum (obviously with the wheels off) and then hose the area off with brake cleaner after. The constant pressure will keep the bled fluid fairly consistent on where it goes when it exits the bleeder screw.

If you want to use something on the bleeders, use clear vinyl tubing (1/4" ID?) not rubber vacuum line. I can't remember what size I used in the past but ask someone at the parts counter to grab a tundra/4runner caliper for you to test the different line sizes on before you buy it.

[garrett]

i ended up measuring the valve and 1/4" I.D. is the correct size to use.

this was freakin' easy! i just got done doing mine following GSGALLANT's instructions, but i also used 1/4" ID tubing to direct the fluid into empty water bottles. no mess whatsoever!

great write up! i wish oil changes were this clean!

[GSGALLANT]

I also use 1/4" tubing on the bleeders when I do it. It's especially useful when you're bleeding brakes to get air out (as opposed to just flushing the system). If you run the tubing in an upside down U-shape, with the high point of the tubing higher than the bleeder screw, it makes it really easy to see if there are any air bubbles coming out.

[CJM]

Next idea is to someone make a self contained unit that adds fluid as you remove it, now that would be cool.

[GSGALLANT]

The link for my pictures (that Jamie posted for me in the first post) has changed. New location for the pictures of my bleeder is as follows:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10599256@N04/sets/72157601047473166/