Changing CV boots

[MTL_4runner]

Well, as I mentioned in the Tundra brake thread, I had my truck come off the floorjack and it put a nice slice in one of my inner CV boots. All the boots had been previously weeping grease since I did my OME lift and the boots are pretty dry since the truck did quite a few years in AZ prior to arriving in Canada. I read there was a boot kit available at the dealer, but I'll be curious to see how many millions of dollars they want for it at the dealer up here (I'm sure it will be alot more than the $40 I hear people are getting them for in the states).

Anyone else done this before on a 3rd gen and have any pointers?

Here's a good writeup I found (except the pics are for manual hubs):
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

I've done plenty of CV boot changes on other vehicles so I'm not worried about the mess.
.....just wish I had access to a parts washer because it's so much cleaner that way!

[bosco659]

When I changed my oil two weeks ago I noticed that the outboard CV boot on the drivers side was ripped. I priced out aftermarket boots and they were about $20 each (need to change inner and outer). I then found a brand new CV axle assembly at Partsource for $90 plus taxes. I bought the axle, now I just need to install it. No way I was going to mess around with all of that grease for that amount of savings. I would imagine that the boots alone would be worth the same as my axle at the stealers. Maybe if I am bored I will rebuild the old axle as a spare. I think that the RHS and LHS axles are the same.

[Bighead]

Write-up for ADD axle: http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods/Toyota/cvboot/CVBoot_replacement.htm

I don't have the boot kit part number in front of me but it cost me ~$25 for the kit (2 x boots, grease, clamps) from my local dealer about 2 years ago .

[MTL_4runner]

I don't have the boot kit part number in front of me but it cost me ~$25 for the kit (2 x boots, grease, clamps) from my local dealer about 2 years ago .

Was that price from the dealer?

Thanks for the writeup link!

[Lee]

jamie its very easy.

i would go get a new one (not even reman'd) at advance auto parts if you have that store near you. its $80 and they are brand spanking new. i run them and theyre great :thumbup:

one tip ill give ya is when youre finally ready to get the cv out, stick a pry bar at the base of the shaft, and use your legs to kick it out. it'll pop right out rather quickly and easily.

[MTL_4runner]

Lee, are there Advance Auto Parts stores down in Boston?
Do they require a core on those $80 CVs?

[cplvc]

Here's a quote from Evan at Northridge Toyota in California (UY sponsor) this is from TOF on 6.01.2006.

COMPLETE INNER & OUTER KIT (04438-35060)$25.16, INBOARD KIT (04438-35040)$15.66.

I bought the inner/outer kit from them around 6/24/06 for $27.24(w/tax).
__________________
phone # 818-734-5600
email evann@northridgetoyota.com

[MTL_4runner]

Lee, are there Advance Auto Parts stores down in Boston?
Do they require a core on those $80 CVs?


Looks like I answered my own question:
http://www.insiderpages.com/store_finder/results/advance_auto_parts/Boston/MA

That kit for $25 is pretty cheap though.... :headscratch:
Need to think how much getting messy is worth. :hillbill:

[MTL_4runner]

I called the dealer up here and asked how much for the CV inner/outer boot kit. The guy says "well, looks like that's only gonna run you about $91 CDN plus tax". I said you gotta be kidding, that includes the entire front axle right? He says "Nope, that's $91 for just the boot kit". :laugh:

Ok, time for plan B.

[GSGALLANT]

Yep Jamie, That's close to the price I paid on the east coast. I have rebuilt both axles on my 3rd gen. So far, so good. On my '93, I went aftermarket, and it still cost me about $45 per axle. The difference is, I had to redo one of my axles two months later when one of my new boots ripped again. Luckily, the store I bought them from gave me a new one for free. I did, however, have to pull and rebuild the axle again. It'll be a dealer item for me next time.

[Lee]

Lee, are there Advance Auto Parts stores down in Boston?
Do they require a core on those $80 CVs?
hey jamie

sorry im an idiot, i thought this said "changing cv's" i didnt realize you meant just the boots :(

[KZN185W]

Just an fyi on the boot materials. The downey ones are a lot more flexible than the oem ones. i forgot about the price.

[MTL_4runner]

sorry im an idiot, i thought this said "changing cv's" i didnt realize you meant just the boots :(


So Lee, was that $80 for a CV joint or the entire left/right axle?
If it is just $80 I may just pay a bit more and save myself some labor/mess.
Still weighing my options right now (sucks shipping stuff up here!)

[DoubleZero4x4]

Having done CV's on my Camry's in the past, I can tell you I still have the boot kits (sold the cars) because for the extra $ it was worth it to just do the swap of the whole axles.

[d0ubledown]

i got my boot kit from the stealership. 91 canadian bones sounds about right. from what i remember, it came with both inner & outer boots, both inner & outer grease, c-clip and clamps. i decided to change the boots instead of the whole axle as im rather anal about using oem parts and i know a complete shaft would have well..shafted me from the stealer. i havent had any issues with my oem kit so far.

its a fairly straight forward process. just make sure you've got a big bucket and lotsa brake clean or parts cleaner to get all the joints nice n clean. might also look into getting those special pliers used to pinch one of the clamps...but i just used vise grips. and as mentioned on the 4X4wire site (the one i used), it may take a significant amount of prying action against the diff side of things. pop it out of the hub first by yanking the spindle towards you.

if you do decide on replacing the whole axle, try pythonparts.ca. ive used em many a time for reman'd parts such as my tundra brakes and PS pump. unlike canadiancarparts.ca, python doesnt charge the core...so you could still reboot your spares later on if you want, instead of returning it.

[MTL_4runner]

One question for you guys that have done this....

I have seen conflicting info as to what exactly the size of the axle nut is (some say 35mm others say 36mm). So which one is it? I'm using a pretty big impact gun (IR2131) and having the wrong size will either not fit or I'll render the nut useless by rounding off all the corners. If anyone could answer this definitively from past experience, I'd really appreciate it.

I'm still leaning toward the boot kit because I used to do these pretty often as a mechanic and as long as you have the right tools (I'm getting a set of CV boot clamp crimping pliers) it usually goes pretty quickly. My current axles are in pretty good shape and should last until I sell the vehicle so I think getting the complete kit from the dealer in the US for $25 sounds pretty good to me. I also need a few other things from them too (like a new heater core and parking brake bellcranks) so I'll order everything at once to make it easy.

[GSGALLANT]

I use a 36mm, Jamie, because a 35mm is not really easy to find here on the east coast. With a nut that size, you'd have to try really hard to strip it using a socket 1mm larger, though. I don't bother using the impact on that nut. It's only on at 175 ft-lb. Because of the dust cap, there should be no dirt or rust on it. A 2ft breaker bar spins it off no problem. I put the parking brake on, and block the wheels when I do it.

I couldn't find boot clamp crimping pliers, so I bought some large end-cutters, and ground the cutting edge down to make it more blunt (so that it would squeeze the clamp instead of cutting it.) Works good, and only cost $5.

Don't forget to get some blue loctite for the 8 lower balljoint bolts.

[MTL_4runner]

So 35mm is the correct size but alot of people use 36mm due to availability? I'm probably going to just get a full impact CV axle nut set (which usually comes with 29, 30, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38 mm sockets.....I think my Civic uses a 32mm for the axle nut on it), but if I find a smokin deal on a 35mm socket by itself, I'll get that instead. That impact gun I have makes short work of even the most stubborn nuts and bolts so it will come zipping off with the right sized socket (might as well use it if I have it right!).

Thanks for the crimping plier tip, good ingenuity!
You sure you're not a yankee in disguise? :spit:

[Lee]

sorry im an idiot, i thought this said "changing cv's" i didnt realize you meant just the boots :(


So Lee, was that $80 for a CV joint or the entire left/right axle?
If it is just $80 I may just pay a bit more and save myself some labor/mess.
Still weighing my options right now (sucks shipping stuff up here!)
the 80 is for the entire cv axle assembly. no core, just 80 bucks for a brand new one with a warranty (ive tested this and they will indeed give you a new one if you break it!)

[Lee]

So 35mm is the correct size but alot of people use 36mm due to availability? I'm probably going to just get a full impact CV axle nut set (which usually comes with 29, 30, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38 mm sockets.....I think my Civic uses a 32mm for the axle nut on it), but if I find a smokin deal on a 35mm socket by itself, I'll get that instead. That impact gun I have makes short work of even the most stubborn nuts and bolts so it will come zipping off with the right sized socket (might as well use it if I have it right!).

Thanks for the crimping plier tip, good ingenuity!
You sure you're not a yankee in disguise? :spit:
dont waste too much money, fyi, because the 36mm works just fine.

[freejake3]

I had the same experience with my CV's. One boot ripped quite early after my initial change and getting a new one from AutoZone was no problem. Now I have to save another 80 for a trail spare.

[Joshs98runner]

I did my cv axle yesterday, it was my first one and seemed tricky but once you figure out the tricks to hammering it out it was a breeze. I went to checker and just bought a 35mm socket, stuck my impact wrench on it and it zipped off without any effort or pressure from the brakes. I also bought a new axle unit from Advanced Auto Parts for $80, it was brand new, looked like good quality, came with the snap ring/dust shields and a new nut ready to go, all I needed was a new 2" cotter pin. I was very happy with the result of using the part from Advanced, for some reason the part listed as a unit for non-abs and my truck has abs, I couldn't find any difference at all in my old axle vs the new one because the actual abs parts are in the hub with the wheel bearings...

[MTL_4runner]

It definately sounds like the advanced auto parts axles are the easiest way to go. Can you guys that changed them out give part numbers so it's easier to make sure you got the right part when doing it. It probably doesn't matter ABS vs Non but it would still be nice to know in advance.

[Lee]

abs vs non doesnt matter and there is only ONE brand new cv with no core that they sell. :) ill check my receipt and see if i can find a p/n

also you can reuse your cotter pin, thats why they dont give you one :)

[Joshs98runner]

I will look for a part number if I remember tomorrow, mine came in a blue box if that helps any, but Lee is right, I don't think they sell any other brand new units that don't require a core. Yeah, you can re-use your old cotter pins but I never do because I like to have new ones with clean bends in there every time...maybe I am just weird but the last mechanic I worked with was the same way.

[d0ubledown]

i used a 35mm dedicated axle nut socket found at the KMS tools. not sure if they have it out that way...but you'll probably have better chances going through an auto store than ordering a 36mm from sears which is what i was going to do. no need for an impact either...just jam the brake with a steering wheel club or whatever up against the drivers seat..and break it with a breaker bar.

try pythonparts.ca...they dont charge core so you dont have to worry about sending em back. good prices too. and you'll still have your oem ones to rebuild if you want to down the road...

[MTL_4runner]

Thanks for the info Sonny. I'm heading down to Boston in August anyway and with the canadian dollar as strong as it is, I'll just try and pick up a pair of axles from Advance Auto parts (can't beat $80 and hopefully they have them in stock). That's why I wanted to be sure I was getting the right P/N since a part return would be a major PITA for me.

[Lee]

give me a shout when youre in town :thumbup:

[garrett]

FWIW i saw a 35mm socket at pep boys today... dunno if you have pepboys up there or not....

[MTL_4runner]

FWIW i saw a 35mm socket at pep boys today... dunno if you have pepboys up there or not....


How much was it?
I think there's one on the way down.

Lee, I won't have much free time, but I'll definately give you a ring and see if we can't meet up. :thumbup:

[garrett]

I want to say $20 but I really can't remember.

[Lee]

FWIW i saw a 35mm socket at pep boys today... dunno if you have pepboys up there or not....


How much was it?
I think there's one on the way down.

Lee, I won't have much free time, but I'll definately give you a ring and see if we can't meet up. :thumbup:
cool! :thumbup:

[Lee]

hey jamie i finally got a chance to pull out my receipt for the cv and it looks like it has 2 numbers that could be p/n's... they are:

15870420
or
NCV69142

:thumbup:

[MTL_4runner]

Awesome, thanks!

[Lee]

i ran the p/n's and it looks like NCV69142 is it :thumbup:

[MTL_4runner]

i ran the p/n's and it looks like NCV69142 is it :thumbup:


Lee, I really appreciate you tracking that down for me. I don't get much chance for a screwup so I need to get it right the first time I buy the parts down there or I might as well take the $160 and just flush it down the loo. :D

[Lee]

if you want, i can pick it up for you if youre worried about it??

whatre you comin down to beantown for?

[MTL_4runner]

if you want, i can pick it up for you if youre worried about it??

whatre you comin down to beantown for?


I might.....let me get back to you on that.

Coming down to visit all my family (I'm the only one north of the border).

[Skrillah]

Jamie, let us know how the install of the new axle goes. I'm looking to replace my cv's as they are getting old and starting to creak and make grinding noises.

[MTL_4runner]

Jamie, let us know how the install of the new axle goes. I'm looking to replace my cv's as they are getting old and starting to creak and make grinding noises.


I'll be sure to post pics of the install (as always) when I do mine.

[cplvc]

I changed a CV Axle ( from autozone) today on the driver's side. I learned from BruceTS (he made it look easy) when he helped me with the pass side. It took me a few tries before I was able to pry the shaft out of the diff and popping it back in took a few tries as well. Sorry no pictures of all the work, I just wanted to get it done.

MTL_4runner, here's a picture of the 35mm socket I bought from pepboys per Bruce's advise it was $13.99 + tax.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s129/cplvc/Socket/24cddafe.jpg

btw thx BruceTS!

[Lee]

a prybar makes the cv pop out in a couple tries. if you line it up right, you can give the prybar a kick and itll pop right out. not the cleanest method but it works!

putting it back in can be frustrating if you dont line it up right in a few tries, i personally get annoyed very quickly at this :laugh: but keep at it and it will slip in.

[cplvc]

Lee,
I used a pry bar, I was just frustrated at how many times I had to pry, while Bruce did it in one pull of the pry bar and one push to pop a new one back in. It took Bruce 15 mins while I took 2 hours :king: And juggling around the hub wasn't fun as I was trying to push the axle in. Getting the 4 lower arm bolts in took a few tries as well, just wasn't lining up easily. It was a good experience overall, I'm sure as I do more I'll get it done faster.



a prybar makes the cv pop out in a couple tries. if you line it up right, you can give the prybar a kick and itll pop right out. not the cleanest method but it works!

putting it back in can be frustrating if you dont line it up right in a few tries, i personally get annoyed very quickly at this :laugh: but keep at it and it will slip in.

[MTL_4runner]

Lee, do those CV axles from Advanced need anything swapped over from the old axles (dust boots, seals, etc)? or are they completely ready for install out of the box?

[Lee]

nope, theyre brand new complete assemblies. just no cotter pin or castle nut or anything like that.

[Lee]

Getting the 4 lower arm bolts in took a few tries as well, just wasn't lining up easily. It was a good experience overall, I'm sure as I do more I'll get it done faster.
yeah i am clumsy as hell with those. my buddy is like bruce, he can do it like hes blinking :laugh:

a tip to get those 4 bolts back in is to take the prybar and use it as a handle at the top of the coil to bring the assembly down to the lower arm :)

[cplvc]

Yeah after careful maneuvering of the hub and pulling on the upper arm I got the bolts in.

Now back to MTL's questions as I don't mean to hijack his thread.


a tip to get those 4 bolts back in is to take the prybar and use it as a handle at the top of the coil to bring the assembly down to the lower arm

[MTL_4runner]

nope, theyre brand new complete assemblies. just no cotter pin or castle nut or anything like that.


Nice, good to go then!

[MTL_4runner]

i ran the p/n's and it looks like NCV69142 is it :thumbup:


One last question and I promise I'm done....
What years is this part number valid for? (ie do all 3rd gens use the same CV axles?)

[Lee]

well thats the p/n i got for my 01, but yes it works for all years :thumbup:

abs doesnt matter, year doesn't matter :)