PDA

View Full Version : Play In Steering Wheel



Swissdrums
06-20-2007, 11:27 PM
With my 94 4Runner on stock suspension and 32's...

I feel like there is an extrememly large amount of play in the steering wheel. I can turn to the left or right about 10-20 degrees without the wheels moving a bit.
Is there anyway to tighten this up for more control?

Thanks
-Mike

Seanz0rz
06-20-2007, 11:29 PM
what do the bushings look like?

they are probably original and need to be changed out.

MTL_4runner
06-21-2007, 06:11 AM
what do the bushings look like?

they are probably original and need to be changed out.


The setup on a 2nd gen isn't the same as a 3rd gen.

Start looking at things like the idler arm, inner/outer tie rods, pitman arm, etc. Have someone sit in the truck and turn the steering wheel while you look for movement in the linkages which might cause slop when turning the wheel.

Swissdrums
06-22-2007, 04:16 PM
Here is a vid...maybe you can get the idea...i just dont know what to do from there

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/Swissdrums/th_P1020655.jpg (http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/Swissdrums/?action=view&current=P1020655.flv)

MTL_4runner
06-22-2007, 04:29 PM
Thanks for the vid, I wish more people did that, it helps alot.

Is there that much play in the steering wheel without getting any movement in the pitman arm below? If so that steering box is shot and needs to be rebuilt or replaced to get your tight steering back again. It's clear from the video that the issue is after the rag joint but it doesn't show how much movement was in the pitman arm when the steering wheel was being moved like it was in the video.

Swissdrums
06-22-2007, 04:33 PM
when i was turning the steering column with my hand, there was not play...while i was behind the wheel, the front wheels were moving slightly

MTL_4runner
06-22-2007, 04:46 PM
when i was turning the steering column with my hand, there was not play...while i was behind the wheel, the front wheels were moving slightly


Ok, if you're telling me you were turning the input shaft that much by hand and the pitman arm wasn't moving at all, then yeah, that steering box is definately toast and needs to be replaced. Also make sure your steering stabilizer is in good condition as well.

Here's the pitman arm I'm talking about (lower part of the photo in black):
http://images.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/129_0404_steer_12_z.jpg

Swissdrums
06-22-2007, 04:48 PM
uh oh...just what i didnt want to here, i hate throwin moneny into this thing.
Thanks for the help

GSGALLANT
06-22-2007, 05:09 PM
Something to try before replacing the steering gear box, is tighten the steering gear backlash. Looking at the steering gear from the top in the engine compartment, you should see an adjustment screw with a lock nut (near the center of the steering gear). Loosen the lock nut, and turn the adjusting screw clockwise to tighten the steering freeplay (or counterclockwise to loosen it). Adjust it in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) and check steering wheel freeplay between each adjustment. When it feels OK, hold the adjusting screw from turning, and tighten the lock nut. Hop in the truck and make sure steering is still smooth, with no binding from lock to lock. NOTE: If you tighten it too much, it will decrease the truck's ability to auto-straighten the wheels when you come out of a turn (similar to if there's not enough caster in your alignment). If you notice this, turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise a bit to fix it.

MTL_4runner
06-22-2007, 05:39 PM
Something to try before replacing the steering gear box, is tighten the steering gear backlash. Looking at the steering gear from the top in the engine compartment, you should see an adjustment screw with a lock nut (near the center of the steering gear). Loosen the lock nut, and turn the adjusting screw clockwise to tighten the steering freeplay (or counterclockwise to loosen it). Adjust it in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) and check steering wheel freeplay between each adjustment. When it feels OK, hold the adjusting screw from turning, and tighten the lock nut. Hop in the truck and make sure steering is still smooth, with no binding from lock to lock. NOTE: If you tighten it too much, it will decrease the truck's ability to auto-straighten the wheels when you come out of a turn (similar to if there's not enough caster in your alignment). If you notice this, turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise a bit to fix it.


Good call GS, I forgot those had the adjustable backlash on top.
Definately do that first before you go replacing anything.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/steering/3onvehicl.pdf

Swissdrums
06-22-2007, 08:09 PM
Thanks guys, i just adjuted the bolt and felt a lot less play in the wheel, i was careful not to do it to much, but it is a lot better then before.
I re attached my airbox and coolant...I went to turn the car on and it just keep turning over.
This is when i get angry
I checked everything over a million times... :(
Thanks for the help with the steering, now a whole nother problem!

GSGALLANT
06-23-2007, 06:43 PM
Well, glad to hear the backlash adjustment worked for you.

Did you have any starting issues before at all? You didn't unplug any of your electrical system connectors (wire to distributor, etc...) or anything when you removed the airbox, did you?

MTL_4runner
06-24-2007, 07:10 AM
If you pull a spark plug after cranking do you smell any gas on it?

Swissdrums
06-28-2007, 01:28 PM
it was the airflow meter...got fried :( Its all replaced. The only issue with the rig not is the power steering leak...