Ignition Hot Wire Location and Color Code

[Cheese]

My associates are riding me to get my pile trail worthy again, so it starts tomorrow.

First things first, getting a functional gas gauge.

I have a cell and sending unit. The sending unit has ground, hot and sender. I know where to hit the ground and sender, but I am looking for an ignition hot, perferably back in the truck, to tap to run my gauge.

I am going to doubt that it takes much power to go, I am not really excited to run a lead specifically for this as that has been a bugger in the past.

Anyone with magic books want to call a color and location?

Also, after I check the 93 FSM link, anyone want to remind me the colors for the three wires that go to the stock sending unit?

Thanks.

[Cebby]

I don't have an FSM handy, but there are two large ignition hot wires in the steering column harness. If memory serves they are substantial (by comparison to other surrounding wires) and white. I "think" only one stays energized in the run position though (while both are energized with the key in the start position but not running). It has been a long while, but that's what I recall from my few years installing alarms/stereos.

EDIT: it appears that the wires for the 94 are black with stripes (black/yellow and black/red)

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/2023.html

[Cheese]

Thanks.

The sending unit is in the cell, so I am looking for something in the rear of the truck given a choice.

I need something that is hot when the key is in START or RUN.

Off to work.

[Robinhood4x4]

I take it your fuel pump isn't in the tank or close to it then. Otherwise you could tap off of it. I can't think of anything back there that's hot off the ignition.

[Cheese]

External, domestic pump, the joys of a cell.

That won't be too much juice tapping the positive on the pump?

Had to come back into town for food and parts.

Thanks.

[Robinhood4x4]

I can't imagine a sender would use that much electricity. You could always test how many amps it uses with a multimeter.

[Cheese]

I could test it, I have a meter, but I am really not sure exactly on all this electrical stuff.

It is now hooked up to the hot lead to the pump and it works!

I now have to fill the truck full, open the rear of the truck and calibrate the sending unit for full. Then I have to run it down to empty and recalibrate the other screw. Some days I miss stock trucks.

Thanks guys.

[AxleIke]

Holy shit batman!

This thread brings a tear to my eye, a tear.

I've no constructive advice at this time.

Lastly, and with joy in my voice, i cry out: ****ing Finally.

[AxleIke]

And i see we are a bulletin board with censorship. I salute thee Big Brother.

[Cebby]

And i see we are a bulletin board with censorship. I salute thee Big Brother.


Seems the word filter has a mind of it's own. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it lets the f-bomb go, but grabs a-s-s. :D

[Cheese]

The other day I found out I could be a son of a bitch, but not a motherfucker.

The reality was amusing.

[Cheese]

Well, I am back on this.

The pump quit. It is pulling juice to the least resistence and starving the pump. The gauge works, yes. The pump was pissed.

So I am now running a lead from the truck, I found out I have the wrong sender after talking to the company and I hope I can calibrate it close.

I am pissed, but working.

Yeah toast!

[Cheese]

Poop on a stick.

Stock gauge is mechanical. Only ground and send signal, varied resistance, bingo.

New sender has hot, ground and send. Ground and send are connected to the right wires in the nbody harness. Hot now has an ignition hot primary line with a 10A fuse.

Called the manufacture, sending unit needs 12 to run regardless of what gauge needs. Also found my "custom" sender is rated at 70 and 0 ohms. I need 3 full and 110 empty, even says that in the literature, or close to that.

Hooked up, messed with it, the adjustments move it, but cannot move it to the right place. On top of that, I think the resistance is wrong and backwards.

Yahoo.

[AxleIke]

sucks.

I will see what i can think of. We had a nifty thingy in a lab project that did what you need, reversed the varience from, in that case, going from 0-12, to 12-0. I will look into it.