Gun Safes

[Robinhood4x4]

In doing my research into gun safes I came across an interesting thread. This is apparently a Liberty Centurion safe. It is believed the burglars used a sledgehammer or axe to break through the safe and it took about 5-6 minutes. One person was working on the side and another worked on the door.

http://www.robinhood4x4.com/misc/Defeated%20Safe.jpg

The liberty centurion uses 12 gauge steel for the body which pretty common for most gun safes out there. 12 gauge is 0.1046". It doesn't say how thick the steel is used on the door, but it could be the same 12 gauge wrapped around sheetrock to make it look thicker than it really is.

[CJM]

A e-friend of mine just recently had a fire that destroyed nearly everything he had. His browning safe survived but the carpet inside got on the guns..

It was 2200F inside his house! Browning safes use much thicker metal.

Oh and a sawzall and or a portable chop saw could open alot of them easy.

[Robinhood4x4]

Not too much thicker. The top of the line Browning Platinum uses 3/16" for the body. That's 0.1875".

Their bottom of the line Sterling series uses 12 gauge steel too.

After reading some threads, I'd like to find a non-fireproof safe but with much thicker walls...like 1/4". It seems like the normal consumer fire proof safes don't help much in a house fire.

[CJM]

Not too much thicker. The top of the line Browning Platinum uses 3/16" for the body. That's 0.1875".

Their bottom of the line Sterling series uses 12 gauge steel too.

After reading some threads, I'd like to find a non-fireproof safe but with much thicker walls...like 1/4". It seems like the normal consumer fire proof safes don't help much in a house fire.


Could weld better panels on, I dont know of any maker that really will uphold to well unless you spend big bucks.

[bigwapitijohnny]

I remember looking into gun safes awhile ago, and I remember that a Fort Knox safe was the one to get. It was the combination of the materials, workmanship and a warranty that set them apart. I look at it this way, a safe is just a means of slowing a thief down. If a thief has enough time, he will be able to get into anything.

Regards,

BWJ

[Robinhood4x4]

I do hear that fort knox is one of the better safes to get, but like all the others, their bottom of the line Maverick safes only use 3/16" for the door and 12 gauge for the body. The top of the line Yeager uses 3/16" for the body and an additional 10 gauge stainless steel liner. That would be the one to get but it also probably costs a fortune.

A determined professional can get into any safe, but 5 minutes for some dumb criminal with an ax doesn't exactly instill confidence.

Welding on additional panels did cross my mind but I doubt I'll do it.

In the end I'll probably end up getting a normal safe, but it's just surprising that these safes aren't that safe.

[bamachem]

The "safes" on the market are more to keep kids out and to slow down a criminal enough so that they won't bother with trying to get inside. Most that I have seen are just 10ga or 12ga, but they add enough weight so that a thief can't just pick up the safe and cart if off. BTW, I will be in the market soon, so make sure to post up what you finally decide to go with and why.

[CJM]

When I get my own place its gonna have a basement, a garage is ok but basement better.

Then I get good cinderblock and brick and build me a little 12x12 room maybe, just for this kinda stuff and reinforce the whole thing. Then get a big ole vault door for it.

[gilby4runner]

i am building right now and i have an area in my basement 5x15 that is blocked and i am putting a steel door for the entry. I am still going to look for a safe. Robin
Hood please post up what you find and what you get.

[Texas Jim]

I hate to add this but you might want to consider a steel dolly. The safe can be very awkward to move. I know that you may feel it is only helping the burglar, but most dollies I have seen can be chained and locked into position then released with a key you keep inside.

For those of you building remember that unless you put in concrete reinforcement your block wall is nothing better than a standard safe. Also remember to have concrete reinforced over the top of this room, to help keep it fire proof.

One other simple piece of advice go to an auction and find a old safe from a business or bank small enough to keep important papers in. The burn rate will be higher and it will be in a fire proof room. :hillbill: TJ

[xcmountain80]

I have been in the market for a safe for some time, I've found a few deals but not exactly what I wanted. Good ones will be heavy! I found one safe that was 3'X3'X3 and weighed in at 600lbs. Youch, the other option I considered was by a middle of the road safe and add concrete paver tiles to the floor to add weight in order to make the safe more awkward to carry of transport.

Aaron

[hillbilly]

A year or two ago I bought one similar to the G5251-T (http://www.sentrysafe.com/products/productDetail.aspx?s=206) at my local Lowe's:
http://www.sentrysafe.com/images/Products/E5251-T.jpg

It's not a 'fire proof' model, but is more similar to the G5243 with 5 locking bolts, chrome hardware as opposed to brass, and weighing in at just over 300lbs empty. Its probably 425+lbs loaded with all my junk, plus it fits in the second floor walk-in closet. Lowe's was in the proces of moving to a bigger store they had recently built and wanted to move a little as possible from the old store, so they clearance a ton. I got it for $200 after taxes. :thumbup: Not top of the line, but certainly meets my needs.

Be carefully putting gun safes in basements as any moisture/dampness can be a real problem (gun rust). I've also heard in the event of a severe house fire (i.e. collapse), most safes in the basement will likely not survive the inferno of burning ambers. Hopefully I'll never find out...