selecting sliders, and options in installing them.

[Seanz0rz]

I figure I know a bit, but putting all of this information in one location might be very useful to newbies, and maybe it will become a wiki one day. Plus, I want opinions on what I should be looking for in sliders.

It’s time for sliders. What are your recommendations on them?

I like the look of square tube better, but I’m having a hard time finding them pre-built on line to order. Does square tube have any disadvantages to round?
Whom should I order from? Any bad experiences with a particular company?
I’m just learning to weld, should I even attempt at welding my own, and then having someone weld to the frame, or should I settle on pre-built?
What are the purposes of scab plates and gussets?
Do they make a good step?
How should they be installed to make a good step? (I.e. angle, distance from body, total distance from frame, etc.

I have settled on welding them on the frame, but I will also include more information on bolt on’s later to complete this as a wiki in the future.

thanks for the info! anything that is useful will be put into wiki form later, and then you can add more. just want a basis of slider tech.

[AxleIke]

Get what you like.

Square will hang a little easier than round, but its really a wash.

I welded my own as a final welding class project. Wish i hadn't.

Scab plates keep the slider from dimpling or tearing the frame. Gussets keep the slider from flexing into the body.

Step is relative. Can you stand on them to get in? Sure. But usually they are only a couple inches below the door sill anyway, and end up being a hassle. Some use skateboard grip tape to keep from killing themselves while in the rain.

[xonetruthcrewx]

http://www.stubbswelding.com/

Thats what i have, the Standard style. He has a lot of options. As for as welding them on yourself, if you feel confident in doing it, go for it. If it dosent turn out good, someone can always fix it. Get the experience. I welded mine on with a 110v Mig Welder. No problems, picked the truck up with the Hi-Lift under the slider and no problems.

[all_terrain17]

Definitely go for some gusseting of some sort. My PS slider has bent up into the rocker because of lack of welds and gusseting.

[BruceTS]

Just go over to Demello Offroad and have him install a set of his.......

[Robinhood4x4]

Strength-wise, Square Vs Round doesn't matter much, practically speaking. Round looks better and more professional, but if you're building it yourself square is easier to make.

Bolt on Vs Weld on also doesn't matter much if done right. For bolt on sliders you need to reinforce the frame by welding in sleeves for the bolts. You also need to use thick plates to help spread out the clamping force from the bolts. The exception is 4crawlers sliders which are just bolted to one face of the frame and use the pinch weld to help support the force. The advantage of bolt on is that you can obviously remove them easier than weld on. The advantage of weld on is that their easier to install.

A third option is clamp on like the way I made mine. http://robinhood4x4.com/rocksliders.htm
The advantage is no modifications to the frame needs to be done and they can be removed easily. The problem is they are very labor intensive to make because of the close tolerances needed.

Sliders are a good project for a beginner as they're unlikely to fall off on the freeway like a tire carrier can.

4crawler has square sliders for sale and they make great steps.

[Seanz0rz]

i really like your idea steve. i am going to look into doing this for myself. how many clamps per side? 3 or 4?

[BruceTS]

I used 3 per side and they are a Hybrid design using 2" square with 1 1/2" tube hoops

[Robinhood4x4]

The math says 2 will work, but I'd go with 3 if you're not going to use the pinch weld as a load bearing member. The clamp style is a pain in the butt to make and I'm going with weld on next time.

[waskillywabbit]

Weld them on...SO much easier to install and remove.

:guitar:

[ecchamberlin]

Got to agree that welding them is the way to go. Lots of back and forth points on this but welding is plenty strong for what you will probably ever do with that Runner.

Call up Brian or one of the other quality fab guys here and get a set you like and put them on that rig! Then come wheelin with us!!!!

I would suggest that you get a set with kick outs in the rear. I wish mine had them and may be modding them so that they do. It sucks when you are trying to pivot on a rock and slide into the rear tire instead of just pivoting the way you planned.

Just a thought though...

[garrett]

When I make mine, they will be bolt on, a different version of Steves.

I attached a pdf made by Di ck Foster from TTORA. It shows how he made his bolt on sliders.

The main reason that I want to do bolt on is to keep all the welding (other than tacking) away from my truck and I don't really want to weld to the frame. Just something I dont feel comfortable doing. Maybe later when it's older....even though it's already 10 years old......

[waskillywabbit]

Most folks want bolt on for easy removal if they sell the vehicle. The big draw back as I see it to bolt on is that you have to drill all those holes in the frame, preferably slug them if you do it right IMO (which requires welding), but if you ever take the bolt on sliders off to sell the vehicle...what do you do with all those extra holes in the frame...you have to WELD them up. :laugh:

Weld now or weld later...you will be assimilated. :flipoff:

:guitar:

[Mossyrocks]

Ill never have bolt ons, I know that.

[Seanz0rz]

thanks for all your opinions guys!

the reason i like the clamp idea is that it involves neither welding nor drilling into the frame.

although, i will probably go with welded. just need to find a good weld guy who is close by.

[BruceTS]

The problem with clamp on slider for 3rd gens is the location of one of the mounts, you have to drop the tank to install them, especially if your gonna sleeve the frame.

An idea I tossed around that I haven't seen done yet is to have separate plates with nuts welded to the back side, then drill relief holes so the nuts are recessed into the frame. Weld the plates in place, this gives you a solid mounting point for bolt-on sliders. I thought about cutting mine off to do this before I did the recent modifications.

One issue with bolt-on sliders that are used hard is they don't usually fit properly after removal.

[callmej75]

Just buy yourself some nice cheap nerf bars and beat them up and then go buy more...hey...everybody says painting sliders is the cleap alternative to powder coating so why can't I recommend a cheaper way?

[waskillywabbit]

Ne

Just buy yourself some nice cheap nerf bars and beat them up and then go buy more...hey...everybody says painting sliders is the cleap alternative to powder coating so why can't I recommend a cheaper way?


Nerf bars are one use sliders. :flipoff:

:guitar:

[BruceTS]

hmm cheap nerf bars :rofl: they usually cost about the same as a good pair of rock sliders not a decent comparison :chair: to a $6 can of paint vs $100 powder coat job. :flipoff:

[Seanz0rz]

ok stop fighting, its just for information.

ive decided to weld, or rather to have them welded. now i just have to select a "brand" and then get enough money together to buy them and get them welded on, and im good

[callmej75]

How do you know its $100? I believe I charge maybe half of that...vs your rattle can flake job that you pay all that money for steel and can't get it coated to last a life time...sounds smart to me!

[ecchamberlin]

I am sure you do a nice job powder coating but it would get all ground off the bottom of any sliders I have ever had on the first run. No coating can stand up to a rough granite rock. So I just go home and touch up the real bad spots with a grinder and then respray them with a rattle can.

Only part of mine that would stay powder coated would be the tops.

[freejake3]

I like the hybrid style myself and would suggest as many outriggers as possible to prevent the outer tube from flexing. I started out with just the two outriggers but later decided to add the plate. Glad I did as more than once I've had the entire truck weighted on the sliders. I agree with the rear kickout idea as will incorporate this into the set for my '95.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m253/affinis/sliders/PA230084a.jpg

[BruceTS]

I like the Hybrid style the best

http://bruce.calrockx.com/4runner/rear/DSC06046.jpg

[Mossyrocks]

Here are my sliders I made for an ext cab pickup.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/4runner5008b.jpg

and heres a weld with the new welder......... Im kinda pissed about my exo because the wire speed is all fubarred (SP?) on the old one and the welds look like ass. same for the swap. but oh well, Ill get around to fixing it one day.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/4runner5012b.jpg

[ecchamberlin]

If I had it to do again I would have a kickout just on the rear end of the sliders just like that. Nice Mossy.

I am sure that Wabbit or Richard Stubbs or whoever you pick will make them how you want them. All they really need to know is what vehicle to set up the outrigger pattern that goes to the frame. The rest is up to you.

[BruceTS]

If you don't mind driving out to Ventura, this is my buddies shop. Give him a call and see how much for a pair of custom sliders.

http://www.heavymetalfabshop.com/

[zombie]

Anyone know of anyone in Ontario Canada that makes sliders? I would love to get some for my '87 4Runner but cannot afford the shipping and duty incurred from purchasing south of the border.

[Small_words]

I work for a big general contractor and have seen beautiful welds from the guys who drive piles for foundations and also the iron workers that do structural steel in buildings. Most of them also do some welding on the side and are pretty nice guys. So, if you can't find a 4x4 shop you trust, stop by a construction site and ask around. Yes, I'm being serious.

[4x4mike]

I just got my Stubbs sliders welded on. They have the new style scab plate and have 4 attachment points to the frame. I went a route similar to paddlenbike's and welded in plates. I have a dark green 4runner and already had chips from rocks and sand being thrown up so hopefully the plates will reduce any further damage. So far I'm happy. I put the hi-lift on each side and they're solid, no movement. Now coming down on a rock full force might be a different story.