Jackpot ??

[ttora4runner]

Well, today I went to a local salvage yard to try and find some misc. parts for my 4runner. They only had one gen 3 4runner in their yard. Heck, I think it's the only one in yuma. To my surpise it had the opinion that I wished I had a rear locking diff. the axle/third member/wiring where all there . The only thing I could see is that the axle needs to be clean up and repainted no big deal. From the looks of it the car was hit on the front passenger door/fender area. Now I have a few questions:

1. This 4runner is a 5 spd. manual (transmission is still there) and mine is an automatic. Would there be any problems wiring it up.

2. Is there anyway to tell if it's in good condition without tearing the whole thing apart.

3. I asked about the price and the guy would have to sell me the whole axle and not just the third member. He quoted me at $450. Does that sound like a good deal?

4. Would you guys buy the axle and third member from a salvage yard? I would've taken pictures but I had no batteries in my camera but it looks fine from the looks of it.

I wasn't meaning to come across this and was planning to get a locker in the future but this might pull me the other way. I could always buy it and build the axle up and install it at a different time (just an idea).
__________________

[ecchamberlin]

1. No idea on this. Would help to know what year Runner you have though. It will make a big diff in how you want it wired. Factory or InchWorm style.

2. Not sure.

3. 450 drum to drum is a good deal. I was looking earlier and that sounds pretty good. A lot easier mod to do if you just swap entire rear axles. However.... The gear ratios front and rear need to be the same. If it is a diff ratio in your favor then you may want to do front and rear diffs.

4. That depends on question 2 really.

Somebody here has more info on this than I can give you.

Bump for some insight on this guys!

[garrett]

AFAIK there is no difference between the wiring for 5spd and automatic... none that i've ever read about.

and 450 for the entire axle is a good deal granted that it's in good condition.

remember that it might be a different gear ratio so you might have to swap the front diffs too.

[Bob98SR5]

Well, today I went to a local salvage yard to try and find some misc. parts for my 4runner. They only had one gen 3 4runner in their yard. Heck, I think it's the only one in yuma. To my surpise it had the opinion that I wished I had a rear locking diff. the axle/third member/wiring where all there . The only thing I could see is that the axle needs to be clean up and repainted no big deal. From the looks of it the car was hit on the front passenger door/fender area. Now I have a few questions:

1. This 4runner is a 5 spd. manual (transmission is still there) and mine is an automatic. Would there be any problems wiring it up.

2. Is there anyway to tell if it's in good condition without tearing the whole thing apart.

3. I asked about the price and the guy would have to sell me the whole axle and not just the third member. He quoted me at $450. Does that sound like a good deal?

4. Would you guys buy the axle and third member from a salvage yard? I would've taken pictures but I had no batteries in my camera but it looks fine from the looks of it.

I wasn't meaning to come across this and was planning to get a locker in the future but this might pull me the other way. I could always buy it and build the axle up and install it at a different time (just an idea).
__________________



ive done this conversion the harder way. you should be so lucky you found the complete axle + elocker

1. no, i am 99% sure the answer is no. why? because the propeller shaft still turns the differential the same way as on an auto and a manual. the locker is activated independently of any kind of transmission shifting. it is actuated electrically via a switch. i have that factory toyota elocker switch for sale, but you should take it off this 4urnner as well as the module that controls it. make sure that if you buy this, that the price includes the switch and the control module

2. let the seller show that it works and/or get some kind of return guarantee. and make sure it is of sufficient time to allow for the install.

3. $450 is a great deal. ive seen these whole axle + elocker sell for usually $600 to $700. if the axle tube is true and straight and the locker works, buy it. but alos make sure it has the ABS harnesses (if you have ABS, that is)

4. of course, thats where most of us get used elockers from. the alternative is the dealer$$$$$$$hip.

i am assuming you hvae read a lot of elocker writeups. i have been dragging my arse on mine which shoudl be the end all of end all writeups on the elocker conversion. however, steve of sonoransteel.com archived one of the better ones by an OG named Phong on his website. look for it and read up there.

bob

[ttora4runner]

I've been talking with steve from sonoran steel. According to him the 5 spds. have the 4.10 gear ratio the same that is in my 4runner so no work has to be done to the front. The axle looks to be pretty straight it needs to be cleaned up though and repainted. Installation time wise might be a bit I've spent a little much at the present time and need to save up some more $$. I'm going to be going back and pull the plug to check the fluid and make sure that there are no metal shavings in it.

Thanks guys.

[ttora4runner]

Got the axle with the e-locker today and the wiring that comes from the locker up to the body. I was only able to get the switch the rest of the wiring was a little messed up. I plan on cleaning it up and replacing the fluid. What would be a good fluid to use?
Pictures:
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t257/wormholegamma/Locker/Picture001.jpghttp://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t257/wormholegamma/Locker/Picture002.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t257/wormholegamma/Locker/Picture005.jpghttp://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t257/wormholegamma/Locker/Picture009.jpg

Total price for axle and wiring less than $500 :D :clap:

[ecchamberlin]

I think you made out well! The pics show that the condition seems normal as far as the rust you had talked about earlier. I would just wire wheel it a bit and rattle can it.

[MTL_4runner]

Wow, you made out well and the rust on that isn't bad at all.
Seeing as you're in AZ, I'd just wire brush off the loose stuff and rattle can it in semi-gloss black rustoleum.

[BruceTS]

only thing I see missing it the e-locker control box. it's a black box aprox 3" x 3" x 1".......

[ttora4runner]

"only thing I see missing it the e-locker control box. it's a black box aprox 3" x 3" x 1"......."

Looks like I'll be heading back to the junk yard. :chair:
Is it located on the firewall or drivers side kick panel?

Thanks.

[BruceTS]

drivers side kick panel, remember it's a black box, not sliver...

[Bob98SR5]

dude, you made out well. $500 is a great price for the whole shebang! and install will be a breeze.

re ecu: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1177481652047738234TsTylo.

as for what fluid to put in, put in cheap stuff. run it for a thousand miles and then drain. given that you don't know exactly what the condition is, you dont want to be putting in the good stuff just yet.

here are other things you should consider checking out:

- rear axle seal (outer). VERY easy to replace.
- buying an e-locker motor guard. schaefer directed me to skymanufacturing.com. they sell a very nice one. i got one. worth the extra money to protect that oh-so fragile motor!

bob

[ttora4runner]

drivers side kick panel, remember it's a black box, not sliver...


If I use the inchworm harness will I need that black box still?

[BruceTS]

stock black box works the best, I'll be making up a harness for a friend. Last weekend I removed all the wiring and components, so I'll be splicing it together this week.

[ttora4runner]

stock black box works the best, I'll be making up a harness for a friend. Last weekend I removed all the wiring and components, so I'll be splicing it together this week.


I can probable get the black box but the rest of the wiring from that box up to the switch and the dash is going to be pain to get if at all. I have the wiring from the locker to the body (which I'm assuming attaches to the black box)and was planing to get the inhcworm harness and another relay to run the stock switch.
If I understand you correctly getting the rest of the harness/wires will make it easier. I guess I need to give inchworm a call and talk with them as well to see what they say.

[Bob98SR5]

ttora,

read the writeup on schaeffer's site---the wiring chart is all there. if you have the switch and the black box, then you can buy generic wire and buy the harnesses and wire it up yourself. cheaper than the inchworm stuff.

bob

[BruceTS]

I only took out enough wire to make it easier to construct a harness, I'll probably add after market lights to indicate the locker is active since the vehicle it's going into doesn't have them. There have been plenty of wiring diagrams posted and it's quite easy to set-up.

[ttora4runner]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm getting a better grip of this.
I've talked with jim over at inchworm from what I gather the harness that I have (locker to body)
will get spliced in with their control kit (including a relay for the factory switch)and I'd be able to hook up the rear diff lock light on my dash if I wanted.
He said that the black box would not be needed. What exactly does that black box do anyways?
Granted I could make up my own harness or have steve make one up when he installs the axle (like Bob_98SR5 mentioned), but I'm the type of person that wants something done right the first time. Instead of having to go back and redo it again (been there done that).
The wiring and installation probable won't happen for a month or two. I have to save up some money and pay off a few bills first.

Again thanks for the help guys and if I have any more questions I'll ask.

[BruceTS]

the black box has the relays to control the locker

[ttora4runner]

How hard is it to change the rear axle seals and the same goes for the 3rd member gasket? Is there a good place to get these at besides the dealer? Whether online or autoparts store. I need to pull the 3rd to check it and I'm just wondering where I would get that at (gasket). What do the bolts need to be torqued down to? I've never done this before so it will be an experience. Might wait on the axle seals until it gets installed.

[Bob98SR5]

ttora,

rear axles are simple. just go rent the seal puller from your local parts store and pull them out. we used a very unconventional way of pulling it out (read = screwdriver with tip covered) so as to not scratch the surface. as far as putting it back in, we cut a piece of 2x4 to the inner diameter of the tube and gently tapped in the seal. oh, we smeared it w/ a little oil on the seal. but if you rent the tool, it will probably come w/ the part to push the seal in

3rd member gasket: do NOT use the toyota gasket. i repeat, do not use the toyota gasket! i learned the hard way. scrape the old gasket off and use grey RTV sealant.

torque down to? hehe, i dont know, but i torqued it down pretty good :)

sigh---i really need to finish the writeup. it would cover all yoru questions quite thoroughly as robinhood and good times helped me with my install. boy, i learned a ton because i made many mistakes!

bob

[blknblu]

Referencing a 93 diff, 18 ft/lb on the diff nuts, 14 ft/lb on the ABS speed sensor if you have one, 54 ft/lb on the drive shaft (propeller) flange.

Those figures come from this on pg 18-19
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/suspensionandaxle/35differen.pdf

And that link is a section of this, which is handy to keep bookmarked if you don't already have it.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Good luck!

[Stevo3]

Dang dude nice find. Ive been looking for one for a while now. And im in AZ too. But i had no intensions on looking through the junkyards in Yuma. Its a tad outta my my :D.

I did find "1" 4runner in "a" junkyard, and i went to like 10 of them. And it wasnt a locked 4runner :(

I will continue my search and eventually find one. But if you come across another deal like that say something man, I will be willing to drive up there for $500 locked rear end and the wiring.


Your 4Runner does have a spot for the locker light. Youll just have to go buy a bulb from the stealership or where ever you can find one. Just gotta pull your gauges out and put the bulb in and your good to go. I was looking at it when in installed the FTC behind the dash cluster.

[ttora4runner]

Dang dude nice find. Ive been looking for one for a while now. And im in AZ too. But i had no intensions on looking through the junkyards in Yuma. Its a tad outta my my :D.

I did find "1" 4runner in "a" junkyard, and i went to like 10 of them. And it wasnt a locked 4runner :(

I will continue my search and eventually find one. But if you come across another deal like that say something man, I will be willing to drive up there for $500 locked rear end and the wiring.


Your 4Runner does have a spot for the locker light. Youll just have to go buy a bulb from the stealership or where ever you can find one. Just gotta pull your gauges out and put the bulb in and your good to go. I was looking at it when in installed the FTC behind the dash cluster.


Well, I stumbled upon this one. I wasn't really looking at the time because I new what they were going for. I checked/call all of the junk yards in Yuma and called a few over in phoenix a few weeks back. Most of them didn't have any 4runners (good ol'toyota).
I was just looking for a few misc. parts and came upon the salvage yard. They had two 4runners a 95 and the 97. When I saw that it had the locker I jumped on it. I just hope it works.

[ttora4runner]

Here's an update since my last post.
Here is what it looks like after 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint. :confused:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t257/wormholegamma/IMG_0633.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t257/wormholegamma/IMG_0635.jpg

I didn't paint the 3rd member it would've been more work than what I wanted and the drums are getting swap out with the ones on my truck due to the guys at the salvage yard goofing them up a bit.
Hopefully, by the end of this month / beinging of next month it will get installed. Time and money permitting. :D

[ttora4runner]

Got another question for you guys. Currently, the diff has no fluid in it since I drained it (plus it cut some of the weight down). Is it okay to let it sit with no fluid in it? Haven't installed it yet due to other things popping up (need to fix my mtn. bike, new computer and the lastest hernia surgery). Will I need any special tools when I refill it and what type of fluid?

I'm going to have the axle seals replaced at the same time as installation. Should I just get those from the dealer or is there a good place to order them online or should I see if I can order them from autozone?

Some one on another board mentioned checking the carrier bearings but I don't know that much but that subject. Some one enlighten me please. :headscratch:

FYI: I've also thought about selling it as well but then I might be a little crazy. :confused: :screwy: