Changing Front CV Axles

[MTL_4runner]

Just did mine and I tried to take alot of photos for people so I could do a semi-decent writeup for people trying to do this too (since as these 3rd gens get older, the likelyhood of needing to do them will go up significantly too). I'll finish the writeup after dinner because it's hot out and I am starved! :D

Just a placeholder for now.....

[Good Times]

wiki man wiki ;)

[neliconcept]

Im gonna need one for manual hubs soon :) i get them in the mail this weekend yay!!

cant wait to see this writeup

[MTL_4runner]

I know I should put it in Wiki but I'll throw it in here for now.

You can find the part number and price for the CV axles in this thread:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=1729.0

The 35mm impact socket I got at Pepboys in the US for about $13

I was thinking about just putting on new boots, but I am so glad I just got new axles (they're only $80 each from Advanced Auto, which is dirt cheap) because putting on new boots is a horribly messy process and most people should steer clear unless you have a parts washer handy to help manage some of the grease removal, you don't value your time much (the disassembly/reassembly can be quite time consuming as well) and your old CVs are still in great shape (ie you haven't had a cut boot or anything where water might get in and ruin a CV joint).

Overall, putting in a new CV axle is really pretty simple, but it's made quite a bit easier if you have air tools. If you're advanced enough to be reading this thread then I trust you don't need instruction on how to take your tire off so we'll start the process after that.

I used a prybar and a hammer to slightly deform the cap enough so the prybar slid under an edge and allowed me to pry the cap off. Don't worry about damaging the cap, you can always hammer the edges back out enough to get it to hold tightly when you put in back on after the entire procedure is done.

[MTL_4runner]

First thing you need to do is to remove the dust cap:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles001Large.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

The next step is to remove the cotter pin and castle lock. Once you've done that you can use a 35mm socket to remove the axle nut (here's when an impact gun really helps, but it's not on there all that tight so someone on the brake pedal while you crank with a breaker bar should work fine).

[MTL_4runner]

Then remove the axle nut:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles002Large.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

Now you'll need to remove a bunch of items. I removed the brake line bracket on the steering knuckle, the (2) 17mm brake caliper bolts, the brake rotor and the (4) 14mm ball joint bolts (which you can see if you look up from under the lower A-arm). Then tie the brake caliper out of the way so you won't damage anything. Finally use a hammer to knock the axle shaft free from the steering knuckle. Basically you want to pull the bottom of the steering kuckle away from the truck while using the hammer to pound the axle shaft through the wheel bearing. This should not require very much force so try not to damage the wheel bearing in the process.

[MTL_4runner]

Axle shaft free from the steering knuckle:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles003Large.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

Here comes the fun part.....make sure to have a pan ready under the inner part of the axle because when it comes out the dif will lets loose quite a bit of gear oil. Using 2 prybars (one on either side of the axle), use equal force on both sides to pop out the inner CV joint from the front dif. I don't really have a pic of this because I don't have 3 hands but when you do it, you'll see what I mean (ie don't just use a prybar on one side or it won't pop out nearly as easily since it tries to come out cockeyed). Once you get the inner CV shaft to move about 1/2" out of the dif, you can put down the prybars and pull the rest out by hand.

[MTL_4runner]

Axle out and side-by-side with new one (you can see the giant boot tear on the old one):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles004Large.jpg

Almost looks like the CV boots are reversed on the old and new ones doesn't it?!

[MTL_4runner]

Next you'll be putting in the new CV axle so now you'll want to use a towel or rag to clean the rubber seals both on the dif and on the steering knuckle (clean them very well because dirt/sand will damage the seals quickly under opration). Now, take the new axle out of the packaging and on the inner CV side (the side with the locking clip) use gear oil from the dif to lube the locking clip, splines and seal surfaces (both on the axle and the seals themselves....be very liberal with the lubing here). Once that is done, you want to line up the locking clip so the gap points upward and then slide the inner CV shaft into the dif. You may need to rotate it slightly to get the splines to begin to engage. Now comes the tricky part. Hold the axle out as straight as you can (supporting the inside portion too so it slides into the dif straight), hit the other end of the shaft with a hammer or deadblow mallet to force the locking clip to engage. It may take a few tries to get it right but you'll know when you got it right. Having the locking clip's gap facing up is key though! Also be very careful with the outer CV's threads because they can be tough to repair if you mushroom them too badly but I'll tell you how to fix that at the end (I had it happen to me doing mine too). When this step is done right, you can't pull the inner CV back out by hand so make sure the locking clip has fully engaged when you're done.

[MTL_4runner]

Locking clip's gap must be facing up during the install:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles007Large.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

Once you got the inner CV in, you can breathe a sign of relief because the hard part is done (unless you mushroomed the outer CV threads....more on that later). Next you'll want to clean the grease/dust seals on the steering knuckle well. Then add liberal amounts of wheel bearing grease to the seal and the seal surfaces on the CV outer shaft. Once done, slide the outer CV shaft through the wheel bearing and hand tighten the 35mm axle nut. Now retorque the axle nut (I just used my weak impact gun), reinstall the castle lock and cotter pin.

[MTL_4runner]

Add wheel bearing grease to the seals:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles009Large.jpg

and to the out CV sealing surfaces:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles008Large.jpg

Finally it should be looking like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles005Large.jpg

[BruceTS]

FYI, you don't have to remove the caliper.... Simply remove the 35mm nut and the 4 14mm bolts.....

[MTL_4runner]

Now reinstall the brake line bracket on the steering knuckle, the (2) 17mm brake caliper bolts (needs loctite blue), the brake rotor and the (4) 14mm ball joint bolts (needs loctite blue) you had removed earlier. Reinstall the dust cap and you should be ready to put the wheel back on.

[MTL_4runner]

It should be looking like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles006Large.jpg

Final assembly:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles013Large.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

If you do end up buggering the threads like I did, then the best thing to do is to use an air grinder or dremel tool to grind down the outer threads to about the cotter pin hole. If you have a thread file, then you may be able to fix the damaged area, but I had to grind and use the thread file to feather out the good threads. If the axle nut doesn't go on easy, DON'T FORCE IT!!! Grind the area down and feather the threads as best you can. The thread pitch is a 1.50 metric in case you have a thread file handy.

Here's what a threadfile looks like:
http://www.parktool.com/images_inc/repair_help/threadfile.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

CV axle threaded portion fix (ground down outer area and blended with a thread file):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/CV%20Axles/4runnerCVAxles010Large.jpg

[MTL_4runner]

FYI, you don't have to remove the caliper.... Simply remove the 35mm nut and the 4 14mm bolts.....


You're right, but it gives you alot more room to work if you do move it out of the way.

[BruceTS]

You're right, but it gives you alot more room to work if you do move it out of the way.


Just use a bungee cord and pull it out of the way.... it usually takes me 15 minutes to do a axle swap....

[MTL_4runner]

Just use a bungee cord and pull it out of the way.... it usually takes me 15 minutes to do a axle swap....


That's about what it used to take me.....now I'm a bit rusty. :D

[ecchamberlin]

Good write up. I have not needed to do this in a year now so I imagine it will be needed before too long now. Thanks.

[glenyoshida]

In case you have a Budbuilt skid this easy mod will save you a lot of time on the trail. Better to spend 15 minutes doing this now rather than the PITA it will be to remove and replace the skid in the hot sun/cold snow. I drilled a 1.125" (1-1/8") hole 2-3/8" in from the edge of the skid.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_OP4kwZtQ1Ew/Sbk6rYQjCnI/AAAAAAAADsA/Vv4cLW--Eok/s720/IMG_6800%20copy.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_OP4kwZtQ1Ew/Sbk5MtcKYaI/AAAAAAAADro/fYzb9SMBAv8/s720/IMG_6796.JPG

[glenyoshida]

I just got an e-mail back from Bud. I sent him the pics suggesting the change if it's cost effective and it turns out that they already started doing that on the skids last fall.

Gotta love that Bud!