Writeup: Retrofitting a Toyota e-locker

[Bob98SR5]

http://4runners.org/image/elocker/mod/notches.jpg

Retrofitting a Toyota e-locker
(http://4runners.org/writeups/elocker/)
Finally got around to finishing this one up!

[Ric]

sweet write-up as always :thumbup:

[paddlenbike]

Nice write up Bob! Good enough that I have an overwhelming sense of deja vu! ;)

When are we going to go use it?

[Seanz0rz]

this should keep me busy around x-mas time!

[Bob98SR5]

ken,

so you still are alive! :D

most definitely when the weather cools down. i am still working on the veggie benz though which is sapping all my mod and trip money away. but yeah, its still not broken in yet!

sean: pending my schedule in a few months, call on me and i'll help ya out as much as i can. the thing that consumed most of our time was having to retap the holes and enlarging the diff holes to accomodate my crappy drilling and tapping

bob

[Robinhood4x4]

Just to add for the future wiki...my method for aligning the holes for the studs. No need for a drill press. I also don't recommend using the gasket as a template. The gasket could move and the holes are too big to accurately find the center. Then you have to set up a drill press to ensure the drill bit is perpendicular to the axle housing. You can't assume the stage is perpendicular to the bit.

Bolt up the third member to the axle housing using several of the studs and nuts (the more the better). Make sure the nuts are tight so the diff can't move around.

Use a drill bit that is as close to the stud hole size in the third member as possible. Note that this bit is bigger than the bit needed for the tap. A standard length bit should barely be long enough to reach the axle housing. Drill a small dimple into the housing. Don't drill too deep because remember that the drill bit is too big for the tap.

The dimple will help center the real bit used for the tap. Ideally, a transfer punch should be used and essentially does the same thing but more precisely. Once the dimple is there, start drilling the hole with the correct size bit trying to keep the bit centered in the third member hole.

The long stud is the easiest because the third member helps align the bit while drilling.

[Seanz0rz]

here is my addition to your write up, concerning wiring and non functioning LOCKED indicator:



To test if you locker works in your driveway: chock the front wheels, release the parking brake and put the transmission into neutral. Lift one tire off of the ground by putting a floor jack under one side of the axle. Engage the locker. Rotate the lifted tire in the air until it locks. It may already have locked without rotation. IF your “LOCKED” indicator does not illuminate, there is a simple fix. With one wheel up in the air, and the switch in the locked position, remove the actuator from the 3rd member. With the actuator set aside, look into the differential, you will see teeth laid out horizontally. Reach in the hole and push the teeth towards the center of the differential. Your “LOCKED” indicator should come on. If it does not, try moving the tire back and fourth to get it to lock. If you are confident the teeth are all the way towards the center of the differential, but the LOCKED indicator is not lit, remove the locked position switch, the nut with the smaller electrical connector in the center with a 27mm wrench. Test continuity in the switch by depressing the ball bearing side into the housing. If continuity does not exist even when the switch is closed, replace the switch. If the switch checks out ok, then double check your wiring. Ensure the light is not burned out or connected incorrectly.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Test the locker several times, making sure the locker fully engages and disengages each time. Finally, disengage the locker, lower the rear wheel and apply the parking brake, remove the wheel chocks and you are ready to go!

[Kryptoroxx]

Just to add for the future wiki...my method for aligning the holes for the studs. No need for a drill press. I also don't recommend using the gasket as a template. The gasket could move and the holes are too big to accurately find the center. Then you have to set up a drill press to ensure the drill bit is perpendicular to the axle housing. You can't assume the stage is perpendicular to the bit.

Bolt up the third member to the axle housing using several of the studs and nuts (the more the better). Make sure the nuts are tight so the diff can't move around.

Use a drill bit that is as close to the stud hole size in the third member as possible. Note that this bit is bigger than the bit needed for the tap. A standard length bit should barely be long enough to reach the axle housing. Drill a small dimple into the housing. Don't drill too deep because remember that the drill bit is too big for the tap.

The dimple will help center the real bit used for the tap. Ideally, a transfer punch should be used and essentially does the same thing but more precisely. Once the dimple is there, start drilling the hole with the correct size bit trying to keep the bit centered in the third member hole.

The long stud is the easiest because the third member helps align the bit while drilling.

I like this idea! I am going to use it for sure. I have access to a drill press but I was concerned myself on how I was going to actually center the holes. I will also take lots of pics for this write-up. I am hoping to dive in next weekend on this project and get it over with. I've done a lot to my truck and I want to go out and use it lol.

[Robinhood4x4]

It definitely works. I've done it twice now without having to redo any of the holes.

[4x4mike]

I'm sure I read this post before my install but never posted in it. I used a transfer punch and a cordless Dewalt to drill my holes.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pcxwQrHpS5Q/T0wCq9hU12I/AAAAAAABAIE/F6wcE-ZqRKE/s800/DSC07737.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1mhk1IXEJBQ/T0wCq-FNsMI/AAAAAAABAH0/u0N_4VOUBKI/s800/DSC07736.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TnA1umXXmE4/T0wCrEiDhdI/AAAAAAABAIA/QSG2tIpGhwk/s800/DSC07738.jpg

[Kryptoroxx]

I did both actually. I liked the transfer punch but since the hobby shop didn't have a guide I had to start it with the big bit and then drop to the 17/64 for the actual hole. I think everything came out rather well. I wanted to take more pictures but I was filthy. I also did not have a torch so I had to do it with a cut off wheel and then finish it with filing. Crude method and it took me 2.5 hours but the end result came out fairly well. I ran out of time tonight so I didn't finish but I have everything tapped and ready for clean-up and re-installation.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/745/MvygUp.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/kpMvygUpj)
Used a paint marker to make my first cuts with

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/ynrwKE.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p9ynrwKEj)
This did not fit so I dragged out a hand file to finish it up with.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/FHff2d.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0FHff2dj)
This fit fairly well and was easy to install and remove the diff with.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/hqj5vm.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/iphqj5vmj)
Took the actuator off to center punch and begin the holes. Using that big bit to start the holes allowed me to easily start the stud hole that is kinda off the machined surface so that was really nice.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/71hlQ2.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f071hlQ2j)
The holes look crooked in the pic but they really are straight.

I am sure cleaning up and re-assembly will take me a little while plus I will be attempting to get the front diff done tomorrow as long as the wife lets me. I was a little disappointed I didn't get it done tonight but I am pleased with the outcome. This was kind of a nail biting mod where slow and steady wins the race. No one wants to need to buy a housing.

[slomatt]

Looks like you got everything drilled and tapped, congrats! Are you going to do anything to increase the sealing area next to where you notched the diff?

I cheated and used a drill press to drill the holes.
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/albums/t4r_elocker_swap/IMG_4098.jpg

- Matt

[Kryptoroxx]

Looks like you got everything drilled and tapped, congrats! Are you going to do anything to increase the sealing area next to where you notched the diff?

I cheated and used a drill press to drill the holes.
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/albums/t4r_elocker_swap/IMG_4098.jpg

- Matt

And that's what I wished I had. The drill press at the hobby shop was too tall to accomplish a setup like that and what looked to be a drill press in the machine shop was a vertical mill. That was my own mistake for assuming it was a drill and not asking. Excellent work slomatt.

Adding material to the lip is something I will consider but given how much contact there is already I will probably black seal it behind the paper seal and call it a day. That stuff expands a small amount

The only way I could add material to the lip would be to mig a bead around the edge of it and honestly my welding skills are not quite....eh....well they aren't confidence inspiring.

My rollbar mod (in progress)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/674/9guVmw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/iq9guVmwj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/FdigXj.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paFdigXjj)

[4x4mike]

Well done Matt. I guess I never saw the details in your install. I remember mailing some tools but after the 6 pack of Turbo Dog I don't remember much more. That was tasty and still hardly see it unless I go to Bev Mo.

Kryptoroxx, I'd look into adding some sealing area. I'm not sure I've seen any that didn't do it. All you need is some non porous boogers that you grind flat. With out it you may end up back under there. Since you have the housing out its easiest to do it now.

One other point is to not use the paper gasket and sealant. Go with just sealant. I've known some that used both and had to go and take it out later.

Matt, how is yours holding the seal? Did my weld work well enough? I've kind of always wondered.

[Kryptoroxx]

It's all torqued down and back under the truck. I left an oil pan under it and it was about 3 hours before I added oil. I used black rtv and the paper gasket. Everything torqued down well and it wasn't seeping when I left.

We shall see. The reason I didn't add any material is because all of the sealing area is inside the bolt....not the outside. Now if it hadn't torqued properly I might have to add material so the stud would have better grip. I will find out at 1000 today whether she leaks or not.

I'm going to check torque on the suspension and get all the connections finished up. I'm adding the elocker vent into the diff breather (up by the gas cap) and adding the electrical to the line keeper I designed for the diff breather.

[Kryptoroxx]

Well done Matt. I guess I never saw the details in your install. I remember mailing some tools but after the 6 pack of Turbo Dog I don't remember much more. That was tasty and still hardly see it unless I go to Bev Mo.

Kryptoroxx, I'd look into adding some sealing area. I'm not sure I've seen any that didn't do it. All you need is some non porous boogers that you grind flat. With out it you may end up back under there. Since you have the housing out its easiest to do it now.

One other point is to not use the paper gasket and sealant. Go with just sealant. I've known some that used both and had to go and take it out later.

Matt, how is yours holding the seal? Did my weld work well enough? I've kind of always wondered.

Drove the truck around a bit today seeing if a leak would develop but so far so good. It's been my practice to do a very very thin layer of seal on each side of the paper gasket and then to let it dry for a couple of hours before putting the seal to the test.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/631/VqBJzU.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hjVqBJzUj)


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/540/sGiY0H.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/f0sGiY0Hj)


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/m6w1EH.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/idm6w1EHj)

This is showing off the pigtails of my own design so that slack and pressure is relieved off of connections on the axle and have lots of slack...but no getting wrapped up in the driveshaft. I ended up routing the elocker vent up to where my diff vent is by the gas filling door. There was only a slight spring extension at full droop so I am happy with the results.

[slomatt]

Matt, how is yours holding the seal? Did my weld work well enough? I've kind of always wondered.

Hi Mike,

Everything worked out great. I used RTV without a gasket and have not had any leaks in the 2+ years I've had the elocker installed. Thanks again for the axle housing.

- Matt

[slomatt]

Full set of pictures are here: http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/t4r_elocker_swap

Mike's welds.
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/albums/t4r_elocker_swap/IMG_4031.jpg

Cut and tapped.
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/albums/t4r_elocker_swap/IMG_4102.jpg

- Matt

[4x4mike]

Hi Mike,

Everything worked out great. I used RTV without a gasket and have not had any leaks in the 2+ years I've had the elocker installed. Thanks again for the axle housing.

- Matt

Good to see it's still trucking along.