Wiring offroad lights to high beams and whenever?

[slosurfer]

I have some Lightforce 170 Strikers on the way and I have some questions about wiring them up.

Is there a way to have them where they can be used with and controlled by my high beams, but also switched to where I can turn them on whenever? I know you can hook them up either way, but is there a way to do both?

After traveling home through the middle of nowhere coming back from Death Valley and the Mojave Desert, I could really use the extra lights and would need them to go off when I turn off the highbeams for oncoming traffic, but there could be other times on the trail where I may just want them on whenever. Any ideas?

[Good Times]

interesting thought. Though i've never done this I would think this is possible by using an OR Gate setup.

two ways:

1) Use of two OR Gate Transistors
2) Use of two Diode OR Gate

I would say the second one is an easier setup.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/ietron/dior.gif

Source A would be the switch
Source B would be the high beam trigger

Again, I've never done this but I would this this would be the way to go.

Hopefully someone else would come up with some ideas too or have actual images of the work.

[slosurfer]

Thanks Lance, I will look into that. Basically what I would like would be a three way switch,

Off
On w/highbeams
On

I probably have a week before I even receive the lights, so I am trying to do my homework now.

[Good Times]

Hey Chris, I totally for about the 3 way switch.

by using that you should be totally fine. Just gotta make sure you figure out the wiring.

Let me think this thru and see if I can get some drawings for you.

[slosurfer]

Hey Chris, I totally for about the 3 way switch.

by using that you should be totally fine. Just gotta make sure you figure out the wiring.

Let me think this thru and see if I can get some drawings for you.


Cool, I thought that would work. I am so stoked to be getting some lights, and good ones at that. I also have their wiring harness kit coming as well. Hopefully that will help some in the confusion and I will just need to add a new 3way switch.

[Erich_870]

Slo,

Good question on the wiring. I'm interested to see how that would work too.

Who did you order the lights from? I'm in the market for 170's for this winter.

Erich

[slosurfer]

Erich, I actually got them from Nick-M over at YT for sale ad. (http://www.yotatech.com/f109/feeler-lightforce-striker-170s-w-combo-covers-124190/)

Sierra Expeditions has the 170's on sale right now
Lightforce 170's (http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php/action/item/id/49/prevaction/category/previd/specials/prevstart/0/)

They may even have some kind of free shipping deal, but maybe that was last month, I don't remember. They are great to deal with though. I will probably buy the locking nuts from them.

[Erich_870]

Thanks :thumbup:

I didn't even see that add. That's a great deal.

I'll probably go with Sierra Expeditions.

Erich

[Good Times]

Chris,

Here's the diagram:

http://www.chaosedition.com/photogallery/images/misc/multisource-switch.jpg

The round things on the right are the lights (sorry I forgot to label em).

It's really a simple configuration with or without out the Lightforce wiring looms. Easier if you have em though cuz you'll be using most of that anyway.

Basically you get the switch which will have 2 input sources:

1. 12v constant or accessory
2. high beam trigger

the switch will have a ground and the accessory line which will then go to the relay.

The relay will control the power transfer to the lights and will light up with the trigger from the switch is engaged.

This should work.

I believe the LF wiring loom will include everything. Basically swap out the switch with a the on/off/on switch and you're set. the diagram that the LF uses will be the same. All you have to do is splice the two input signals to the switch and you're set.

good luck!

[slosurfer]

Thank Lance! :thumbup: Now to go in search of a good switch. Then I get to wait around for the lights to come in the mail. :D

[Good Times]

Painless Wiring (http://www.painlesswiring.com)

#80408 - On/Off/On Single Pole - Amber Lights
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=80407

I've used these with great success.

good luck :)

[slosurfer]

Lance, thanks for the links. I ended up getting one from 12voltguy.com since I have been in communication with him for the Pismo Jambo. I think it is a bezel switch dual red illuminated with a black cover :headscratch: It isn't shown on his site. He has some pretty cool stuff on his site and seems like a really nice guy. He has some nice dual battery and winch kits too.

Here's what he is donating for the Pismo Jambo: In-cab Winch Control (http://www.12voltguy.com/incabwinch.htm)

[slosurfer]

I received my switch yesterday from 12voltguy. It is a nice carling rocker switch DPDT double illuminated (http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.com/sealed-rocker-switch__26.asp). I didn't receive a diagram with the switch, so I'm kind of :headscratch: I emailed 12voltguy and I'm sure he will get back to me with help, but I thought I would throw it out for you guys to take a swing at it. The switch has 7 blades on it and an open spot for an 8th blade.

Switch:

8: open 7: blade
1: blade 4: blade
2: blade 5: blade
3: blade 6: blade


My guess right now for this to work and to have my switch lights illuminate when in the on positions.

1: to Highbeams +
2: to relay
3: to accessory or parking lights + (not sure which one I plan on using)
4: open
5: open
6: open
7: to ground (so that the led lights in the switch will work)

Let me know what you think. I'll also post what 12volt says. Should be interesting to see what we come up with.

[slosurfer]

Here's the diagram with my lightforce wiring harness, so you can see what I'm working with:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/img048.jpg

[surf4runner]

you may need to wire the LED(another ground connection?) so that its on, whether ON or ON w/ the HB.

[slosurfer]

you may need to wire the LED(another ground connection?) so that its on, whether ON or ON w/ the HB.


That's what I was wondering. I'll have to wait and see. Hopefully my lights come in today.

[bigwapitijohnny]

Slosurfer,

Your are going to love these lights. I have the same pair, and they are great :thumbup:. There is another source for these lights that you should know about. off-roadlights.com/index.htm (http://off-roadlights.com/index.htm) Dick has helped me quite abit with my project with Armorology. Interestingly, he offers a HID conversion available for the 170s that DOUBLES the candlepower at about half the cost of the ones available from Lightforce...not sure that I 'need' these just yet.

Also, there are some 'security' nuts available at rallylights.com (http://rallylights.com). I looked into the Barri-nut locks, but they were $20/pair...these are real cheap $1.20 each...Check them out and let me know what you think. Hope this helps.

Regards,

BWJ

[slosurfer]

Slosurfer,

Your are going to love these lights. I have the same pair, and they are great :thumbup:. There is another source for these lights that you should know about. off-roadlights.com/index.htm (http://off-roadlights.com/index.htm) Dick has helped me quite abit with my project with Armorology. Interestingly, he offers a HID conversion available for the 170s that DOUBLES the candlepower at about half the cost of the ones available from Lightforce...not sure that I 'need' these just yet.

Also, there are some 'security' nuts available at rallylights.com (http://rallylights.com). I looked into the Barri-nut locks, but they were $20/pair...these are real cheap $1.20 each...Check them out and let me know what you think. Hope this helps.

Regards,

BWJ


BWJ, thanks for the info! Those "security" nuts look like they will work good. Do you have them on yours? I definately want to do something so my expensive lights don't walk off.

[bigwapitijohnny]

Surfer,

I bought 10 pair I believe and I'll sell them to you if you are interested (how about $1 each + shipping?) :hillbill:. It turns out that the lights are 'tight' enough on my bumper to where I will not need them, thieves will have a hard time getting a wrench on these. Let me know. By the way, love your trailer build :thumbup:, been watching that 'slowly'...

Regards,

BWJ

[slosurfer]

I got them all mounted, wired, and the switch is good to go. I've got on w/ highbeams, off, and on with at least parking lights on (I did it this way, so that I would get the warning buzzer if I leave them on with the key off).
I wired my 7 post switch in this way.

7.Ground
1.to parking lights+ 4.None
2.to relay 5.None
3.to highbeams + 6.None

I was hoping that it would turn the lights on the switch only when the switch was on, but the lights come on when there is power to that side of the switch. I.E. Driving during the day with no lights on, the switch has no lights on. When I turn my parking lights on or my lowbeams, the bottom light is lit (which means that if I hit that side of the switch, my lights will come on). If I turn my highbeams on, both lights are lit on the switch, meaning that there is power to both sides of the switch and I have the option of which way to hit it to turn my lights on. Up will turn them on but they will go on and off with the highbeams. Everything works great and I am not going to mess around with it anymore to see if I can make the switch lights only come on when the switch is thrown. I'll try to get some pics up soon. Thanks for everyones help. :bowdown:

[slosurfer]

Pics:

Carling Rocker Switch:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6495.jpg

This is how it lights up when I have my parking lights or low beams on.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6497.jpg

This is how it lights up when my highbeams are on
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6494.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6498.jpg

[slosurfer]

Some light output pics.

Stock low beams :(
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6512.jpg

Stock high beams
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6513.jpg

Just the 170's with clear lenses both on spot light
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6516.jpg

High beams and 170's clear lenses
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6517.jpg

Just the 170's with yellow combo spot/driving lights
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6515.jpg

Highbeams and 170's with yellow combo lenses
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/IMG_6514.jpg

[Good Times]

boy that's gonna look nice for pismo :) good job!

[bigwapitijohnny]

Welcome to the 'Lightforce' family :clap:...just to let you know, the colored filters do NOT dissipate the heat generated on these lights as well as the clear ones do. So be aware of the time that the lights are on with the colored filters...

Regards,

BWJ

[slosurfer]

boy that's gonna look nice for pismo :) good job!


Thanks! I'm still trying to get the adjustments where I like them. Right now they are aimed slightly above my high beams. I definately see how lights are addictive, once you get a set it's easy to think, "hmmmm.... if I had these other ones, I could see all the way over there!"



Welcome to the 'Lightforce' family :clap:...just to let you know, the colored filters do NOT dissipate the heat generated on these lights as well as the clear ones do. So be aware of the time that the lights are on with the colored filters...

Regards,

BWJ


Thanks Jon, I now see what all the hype is about over these lights. Thanks for the heads up on the lenses, I did notice that the lenses were hotter to the touch than the clear. I thought it was my imagination, lol. I'm stilll trying to figure out how to put those security nuts on the adjustment bolt. It's hard to get a crescent wrench in there. I haven't spent a lot of time on it yet though.

[slosurfer]

Just an update: the way the switch is wired has worked great. I used the highbeam/LF combo coming home from Mojave Rd. while on Hwy 166, this was the first time that I really used it for any length of time. Anyways, just an update. :thumbup:

[slosurfer]

I want to add a third light that I will eventually wire independantly of the other two, but until I get another wire harness, I just want to add it to my existing setup. My question is, can I just tap into my lightforce wiring harness? My 170's are 35watt HID and I'll be adding a 100watt halogen(eventually a 50watt HID), so I'll still be under the original 200watts that were originally flowing through the harness. Thoughts/suggestions?
Here's the diagram with my lightforce wiring harness, so you can see what I'm working with:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/img048.jpg

[slosurfer]

After picking Sean's brain in the chatroom, I went ahead and tapped my wire harness for the third light. So far so good! Thanks Sean. :thumbup:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/HID%20conversion/IMG_7032.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/HID%20conversion/IMG_7038.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

heres sometihgn i drew up real quick for someone else on the board, but could be adapted to any of these situations where the desired outcome is lights on with a light controlled via the vehicle, in addition to lights on via a separate switch. i think this is the easiest and most robust way of doing this, and prevents large currents through a switch, which is never a good idea, especially when using smaller switches never intended to handle the current.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/hamiltoncomputers/EPSON001.jpg

[slosurfer]

Sean, is that showing 2 relays?

[slosurfer]

Here is what my wiring diagram looks like now (I suck at photoshop :flipoff:)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/HID%20conversion/img048a.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

yes that is two relays. one provides power when the vehicle lights are on (reverse in this case, it could be any lights) and then another that provides power from a separate switch, independent of the vehicle lights. many people would just imply add a switch to control the lights in place of that relay. the problem with that is when running high draw devices, such as halogen offroad lights, which can exceed 200 watts, most switches are not designed for that current flow. even if they are, i still think its a good idea to wire it this way. for other projects ive used microswitches, tiny toggles, etc to control high draw devices, and this is how i did it. it may be an extra relay, and some extra connectors and wire, but i believe this to be the correct way to do this.


a reason for not putting a switch on the vehicle light side is if you dont want to have the vehicle lights on when you put the aux. lights on. you could use a diode, but again, im not sure how that would stand up to a large current.

this maybe not the most efficent way of doing it, but its the way that has always worked flawlessly for me, given me the most control over my circuits, and if something does go bad (relay, switch) i have spares, (unlike a diode, which i dont carry around)

[4runnerchevy]

Current is Watts divided by volts = Amps. In your case 200 watts is 16.6666 amps. Too much for a common switch. The proper way, like previously stated, is using a relay (at least 20A rated). 16 amps is 12g wire to be safe (both hot and ground). The hot side of the coil (in the relay) can just be a simple 18g wire (since this usually draws .2 watts) as well as the coil ground. Don't forget fuses for both the coil hot and the lighting hot wires.

[slosurfer]

^^^^yep, I don't think anyone here is saying to not use a relay, but it is good to add that in there to clarify for others who are searching here. Which is why I just tapped into my LF harness for my third light, I will eventually get a relay and another switch so I can control my center spot seperately.

[4runnerchevy]

Nice :thumbup: