Unintentional downside of replacing water pump...

[nrgetic99]

... truck is so darn quiet now I am obsessing over every little noise that I never heard before :D

I have 141k on my 98 Ltd and the water pump got loud in a hurry. While I was there, I replaced thermostat, #1 idler and tensioner and the timing belt itself. I ended making a very handy dandy crankshaft pulley holding tool out of piece of 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" steel angle that sits on the frame rail... makes getting the 184 lbs ft on the retaining nut a breeze.

The #1 idler was well worn as was the water pump and it is truly amazing how quiet the engine is now... I spent 30 mins adjusting the belt tensions as now I can clearly hear if the squeal even a hair.

So, this weekend, upper intake Seafoam treatment and an oil change plus some new OEM front brake pads and we should be set for the winter.

I don;t care how good a mechanic you are, starting the truck for the first time after a timing belt change really gets your attention :P

[MTL_4runner]

I ended making a very handy dandy crankshaft pulley holding tool out of piece of 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" steel angle that sits on the frame rail... makes getting the 184 lbs ft on the retaining nut a breeze.


Mayday! Mayday!

Get that torqued to something above 217 ft-lbs ASAP or you're quiet life could end rather abruptly.

[nrgetic99]

Hmmmm.

The database I have clearly says 184 lbft.

Where did you get this from ??

Thanks

David

[nrgetic99]

K,

Just picked up a 36" torque wrench at work that runs to 500 lbs ft and is calibrated at 225 lbs ft.

We should be fine now.

I really need to run to ground where the torque spec was changed...I cannot find a TSB.

David

[MTL_4runner]

Hmmmm.

The database I have clearly says 184 lbft.

Where did you get this from ??

Thanks

David


That is the old spec on the bolt.
Toyota changed it from 184 to 217 ft-lbs for all 5VZ-FE motors.

Here's the spec right out of the FSM (see attached).

[nrgetic99]

Thanks.

I am just PO'd that alldatpro is not up to date.

I took care of it tonight but it was a PITA as I had to remove the fan, lower fan shround, loosen upper fan shroud, battery and a few other bits and pieces to get my holding tool in place.

Then to add to the fun, I used my holding tool to break the bolt free so I could remove it for RED locktite and tool prevented pulley bolt coming all the way out...

The Torque wrench I used must have weighed 40 lbs :roll:

Anyway, holding tool works great, 217 lbft and red locktite in place.

I seriously doubt it will come off now.

David

[MTL_4runner]

I seriously doubt it will come off now.


.....and that's how you want it. :thumbup:

[GSGALLANT]

Yep. Lots less hassle to re-do it now than to deal with a pulley that has come loose and trashed your crank. Red loctite will make it a bit hard to remove in the future... how much did you put on? I usually use blue loctite on the crank bolt.

I did, however, use red loctite, 200 ft-lbs, and a stake on the nut on my rear diff pinion nut when I rebuilt the 3rd and installed the solid spacer. I'm not looking forward to getting back in there if I have to.

[Seanz0rz]

a butane torch (available at radio shack or home depot with the soldering stuff) is perfect for the required 500*F removal temperature on red locktite.

[MTL_4runner]

Red loctite isn't nearly as strong as you guys are giving it credit for. You can dissolve it with heat but most of the time it's pretty easy to just break the bolt loose again using an impact gun or even brute force. I've never snapped a bolt when loosening it with red loctite on it.

[Deltron]

This is what these forums are for. Nrgetic does a great job and follows his maintenance specs, and MTL drops some new specs that probably saved some $$$. Props to ya Nrgetic for being able to do this very costly maintenance yourself.

[surf4runner]

I don;t care how good a mechanic you are, starting the truck for the first time after a timing belt change really gets your attention :P

yeah, but after 10 quiet seconds... :booya:

[GSGALLANT]

Red loctite isn't nearly as strong as you guys are giving it credit for. You can dissolve it with heat but most of the time it's pretty easy to just break the bolt loose again using an impact gun or even brute force. I've never snapped a bolt when loosening it with red loctite on it.

Agreed. I've never snapped a bolt with red loctite on it either (and I typically don't use heat)... but only because I usually only use red loctite on bolts larger than 16 or 18mm. That being said, removing a large diameter bolt that has had a significant amount of red loctite applied on clean threads during installation, requires the use of several different funny faces and a few different sounding grunts, while pulling on the breaker bar.

[20005spd]

nrgetic 99, alldatapro sucks. i use it at work all the time but alot of the stuff is wrong or not up to date. that being said it is better than nothing at all. and im with you on starting the engine after a timing belt job or any big job for that matter, its like an adrenaline rush for me its either going to sound great and run good or go BOOM :D