POR-15

[Ric]

anyone use this ? http://www.por15.com/ if so, what are your thoughts ? would yo do it again ? where did you use it ? on what part(s) ? how much did you get ?

I was thinking about trying the "starter kit" http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SSK&dept=1

[Bob98SR5]

Ric,

man, you definitely didn't read my Mercedes blog! www.biodieselbob.blogspot.com. if you want to see how to do rust repair, please read my blog. by the way, what are you treating?

POR15 vs Rust Bullet: i did my homework big time and i concluded that rustbullet.com is a better product than POR15. here's a test that showed rust bullet did better than POR15.

that is not to say POR15 sucks. it just shows RB did better. personally speaking, there might not be a drastic differnce, but only a marginal one. but i was convinced nonetheless

on the page your referenced, i looked at it. here's my thoughts:


Step 1: all that is phosphoric acid. save your money and go to lowes or HD and buy it there. it might have metal etch in it (which is a paint prep additive), but thats fine too. phosphoric acid does a great job at cleaning off rust off bolt threads and nuts. 10 minutes max.

Step 2: Step 2 is just plain ol' metal etch. Just buy the all in one phosphoric acid with metal etch. the brand i used (just cked in the garage) is made by kleen strip and called "phosphoric acid with etch". to me, step 2's product is to get you to spend more money

Step 3: thats correct. nothing different here, regardless of what you choose

Step 4: Chassis black is really a needless step here, esp for a battery tray of all things! all that is is a protective underbody coating. personally, id just put another layer of por15 or rustbullet and then later spray paint it black if you are so inclined to paint your battery tray. i wouldnt

From all my reading, they are missing a crucial step: cut out as much rust as structurally possible. if not possible, take a wire brush to loosen off all the big flakes and then take a drill with a wire cup brush or wheel brush and machine scrape all the rust off. Then you can do:

1) brush or wipe off the rust dust
2) apply phosphoric acid/metal etch. let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes. you may need to dilute it, depending on what you buy. read the instructions
3) spray down with water and wipe down. its an extra step, but it definitely gets off the PA that may have rust residue
4) apply your RB or POR15
5) RB says a 2nd coat is necessary. i think its a good idea and i like the philosophy behind it
6) if underbody, spray a good quality 3M underbody protectant

write me back for more tips, but again, read my blog :)

bob

[Ric]

Bob,
thankx you soo much, and Im sorry, I havent read the blog yet, (but will :D)
I was thinking about just doing the frame and possibly the axle, This is really for Glen, he recently got a 2001 and the axle is rusty, not bad now, but could use something.
Again, thank you :thumbup:

[Bob98SR5]

ric,

first off, would you get glen yoshida posting here already?!?! that guy is cool.

and no apologies needed re blog. its a totally differnt type of rust repair for you. if you are derusting an axle, that'll be much easier. having worked with a bare axle for my e-locker retrofit, if you can get the brake lines, etc out of the way, then using a cup brush will allow you to mechanically remove most of the rust from it. the top part you will have to get creative with a wire brush and some sandpaper if you really want to be anal. do NOT get it on your bolt threads or bolt holes. do what you must to protect them all. this stuff dries harder than nails. i've had quite a nice time trying to get that stuff off using a mini butane pen torch and alot of elbow grease. spray paint it flat black. you may see some bubbles (fish eyes), but hey, its a freakin' axle!

i would recommend that you also change at least the rear axle seal, depending on mileage and/or do them both (inner and outer). removing the tires out of the way will make working on the axle much easier.

what i've learned is that rust loves seams. and it spreads like cancer underneath seam sealer. nothing you really can do about that. but on axle and exhaust seams that are not coated with seam sealant, i'd put 2 coats on the seams. if you read my blog, you will see where the exhaust cracked at the welding seam and how i had to patch it. i kept cutting at the exhaust seam welds and i was surprised (well not really) at how far it travelled and how much i had to cut out.

frame: that'll be easy. just sand down and use RB or POR

bob


edit: its ironic how a californian is giving rust repair advice, no? :confused: but hey, thats the pennace i have to pay for being a complete idiot and buying a rusted (misrepresented) car! :hillbill:

[Ric]

Yea, Ive tried to get Glen posting here, or more so becoming an active member here, he has some killer ideas, Im sure he will soon.

i would recommend that you also change at least the rear axle seal,very good thinking, thankx for the heads up.

edit: its ironic how a californian is giving rust repair advice, no? :rofl: that was great :thumbup: