Got any tips for separating ball joint from A-arm?

[RobT2K]

I don't have stock A-arms, I have the ATS/Inland trucks A-arms. They are mostly tube steel with a small section near the ball joint that is somewhat flat. So using the gear puller method is difficult, because there is nowhere for the jaws to grip onto.

The last time I tried to use the gear puller, I was able to get it to grip one time and ended up squishing/mushrooming the spindle stud slightly from the screw on the gear puller pressing down on it.

They've been on for about 3 years, so I don't think the hammer method will work too good without damaging the arms.

I was also wondering if it is even neccessary to do this, I'm just trying to replace the bushings in my A-arms. Would I be able to just pull the long screw out of the A-arms and just replace the bushings with the ball joint still attached?

Thanks

[BruceTS]

I see no problem just replacing the bushings while the arms are still attached to the spindles. It'll just be a bit more difficult that's all... As for a puller I use the pitman arm type, they work great.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92882

[ecchamberlin]

Rob
Marc told me you had bushing issues. Did you get the new ones from Total Chaos already? Do you still have your stock arms? Worst case senario it those go back on.

Call if you need help.

[RobT2K]

Thanks Bruce that's good to know, but what would be the difficult part? Would it be hard to get the arms back into place to put the long bolt back in? Also with the puller you linked, I had problems with the spindle stud collapsing when I cranked the puller. It looked like the hole for the cotter pin was starting to get egg shaped.
Any way to avoid this?

Eric- I did get the bushings from TC, hopefully they work for me. It just sucks that to get them swapped out may cause more problems.
I do have the stock arms, but other than the bushings the ATS arms are fine. If these bushings don't fit, I probably will have to go to the stock ones.

[BruceTS]

just loosen the nut, back it off a few turns, use the the "c" type puller. Tighten it down and use a hammer to smack the top to pop the joint free.

[RobT2K]

Thanks Bruce, that method worked fine. :thumbup:

I think the key is only loosening the castle nut a few turns, because it gives the threaded stud some support while you crank away on the pitman arm puller.

The first time I did this, I didn't do that and I ended up damaging the stud on the top of the spindle that goes into the upper A-arm. So now my drivers side castle nut won't come all the way off, because of the damaged threads. I got the ball joint separated, but it just spins around instead of coming off all the way.

Can I just replace the drivers side spindle with a junkyard replacement? Will I need to find the same exact model as mine ('99 4x4 Limited w/ADD, also has the push button all wheel drive on the transfer case shifter.) or can I just find one off of a 4x4?

Also are there any other tips I need to know to make this swap easy?
Thanks guys

Oh yeah, the Total chaos bushings didn't fit. They were too big. Anyone need them?

[BruceTS]

You just need to replace the ball joint assy, not the whole spindle.....

If you had a thread file you could fix the one that's on there....

To remove the nut try using a c-clamp to hold the tapered shank from spinning, clamp the upper a-arm to the spindle.

[RobT2K]

Thanks for the info Bruce, now should I get that from the dealer or the junkyard? I'm thinking that is something that I should get from the dealer right?

Anyone have any online discounted factory parts links?

I'll also try and post a pic up tomorrow of the bushings and what they are doing. Maybe you have some ideas to keep this from happening again. Because even if I did have the right size bushings, there is no washer on the inner sides of the A-arm to keep them captured inside the sleeve. There are just washers on the outsides of the arm where the nuts tighten down. I think the TC arms have washers on both sides of the bushing to keep it in place.

[Seanz0rz]

toyota of northridge has 25% off parts and free shipping. the link is in the rotating banner on the site here. just refresh a bunch till you get it.

[RobT2K]

Wow. I just looked up how to remove/replace the ball joint, more involved than I thought. The chiltons says you have to remove the spindle, and to do that you have to disconnect the tie rod. Looks like I'll have to wait a few days before I dive into this.
Bring on any more tips, I'll take 'em.

[nomadpsd]

Here are the tools I made for replacing the upper ball joint. Should be able to do it without removing the spindle. Just detach from a-arm, I know you have an issue there, but if you are going to replace it anyway, just cut the top off. Once detached, then remove the boot and snap ring from the ball joint. This is where the tools I made come in, I used the smaller one (piece of 1-1/2" x .120"wall tubing 2.5" long welded to a piece of 1/4" plate) to go over the stud of the ball joint and push on the body of the ball joint. I used a 2-jaw gear puller. Hook the jaws on the spindle and push it out. I then used the larger tool (piece of 2" x .120"wall tubing 3" long welded to a piece of 1/4" plate) to install the new ball joint. Insert the new ball joint in the hole, place the tool over the top where the stud is coming through, but this time you grab the ball joint with the puller, and pull it into place. Install the new snap ring and boot, then reinsert into a-arm.

[RobT2K]

Hey Nomad, looks like you're pretty close to me, think I could borrow those tools you made? I'm looking to do this next week, as long as I get the parts in time.

If I can change out the ball joint without removing the spindle, that would be great. I wasn't looking forward to all of that.

[nomadpsd]

Hey Nomad, looks like you're pretty close to me, think I could borrow those tools you made? I'm looking to do this next week, as long as I get the parts in time.

If I can change out the ball joint without removing the spindle, that would be great. I wasn't looking forward to all of that.


PM'd you.

[RobT2K]

Thanks Phil!
I'll be in touch, parts are ordered and should just be a few days.

[RobT2K]

Just an update:
I got the ball joint changed out,Thanks for the tools Phil!
I switched back to the stock A-arms, and pulled the ATS/Inland trucks arms off.

I thought it was just an issue with the 315's, but do 285's on stock rims rub the stock A-arms at full droop? When I was putting the truck back together, they seemed to be hitting the arms while the truck was on jackstands.

[Seanz0rz]

yes your 285's will rub. you can get shaved a-arms from steve at sonoran steel

[ecchamberlin]

Rob
there is a guy selling a set of the same a-arms you just took off your rig for $180 I think on TTORA. Seem used but okay.

[BruceTS]

Rob
there is a guy selling a set of the same a-arms you just took off your rig for $180 I think on TTORA. Seem used but okay.


That's probably one of Robs aliases......

Rob try going over to Kartek and see if they can match up some bushings to fit, if not I know Matt over at Total Chaos can make you some......