Strange locker indicator behavior. non-stock wiring - FIXED

[Seanz0rz]

so this problem has been fixed! see post 9 for details!



ok so i just finished up the wiring on my elocker, everything works great, finally! 51'st time is a charm apparently!

so on to my problem: when i hit the lock switch, it locks, the indicator for the "locking" action comes on, then goes off once its locked, at which point the light for "LOCKED" should come on, but does not. this light uses the locked switch in the differential (two pin connector) as its switch. i have removed the switch, tested it, and it works fine. i have tested the LED, it works fine, it is on one side, connected to the hot wire, and this switch is a switch on the ground, when it is closed (when the diff is in the locked position) it should close the circuit and cause the light to illuminate, but it does not.

when in the locked position, i get no continuity in the switch. is there some piece in the differential that could be broken, causing this to not be sensing the locking fork in the locked position?


for future reference, i am using a modified version of this circuit: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/elec_locker_wiring.GIF
however, the modification does not involve the switch or LED in any way.

all help is greatly appreciated! once this is figured out, i'll have a beautifully working electric locker!!!

[paddlenbike]

If the LED works and there is continuinity when the diff lock detection switch closes, then there is a problem in the wiring somewhere. I would retrace the wiring or at least check the wire colors at the switch and relay box and then the associated connections at the factory harness that goes to the rear diff.

[Seanz0rz]

there is no continuity in the switch when the diff is locked, but when removed it has continuity when tested as per the fsm, (or common sense). i know it is locked because the relays stop at the end of the travel of the actuator, as per the locking fork position sensor.

i checked the wiring, it most definately checks out fine. the problem is either the contacts on the switch are too far into the travel of the switch, or the locking fork is not engaging the switch, because something is either missing or broken or has been modified out of factory spec.

ive looked through the fsm, and its kind of vague on those parts (im assuming if those parts go bad, you end up getting a whole new 3rd.

[paddlenbike]

Sorry, thought I missed the "no" continuity part.

Are you able to confirm that the locking collar is freely moving through its entire range of travel?

When I did my first e-locker swap 8 years ago, I could not get my rear diff to completely lock. (Similar problem, it acted locked, but I wasn't getting the confirmation light.) I removed the two bolts that hold the actuator assembly to the diff and physically moved the locking collar back and forth. As it turns out, the locking collar was unable to travel the last few millimeters to completely lock, presumeably because the diff had sat around for a while at the wrecking yard. I wonder if your's is doing the same thing. I never had another problem with it after I got it to lock for the first time.

[Seanz0rz]

nah i had to move mine by hand when i installed it, as i bought it in the open position. i pulled the motor and pushed it with my finger to lock it to install it, once in the axle i had to unlock it so i could drive with out wiring. i am absolutely positive it locks. with one rear wheel up in the air, and the trans in neutral, i can turn the tire in the unlocked diff position, but not in the locked position.

it would also seem to me that it is in its full lock state because the limit switch stops power to the relay when locking.


heres a question: how does the position sensor/switch work? does it determine the position of the locking fork, or does it rely on the motor? maybe i need to go move the position of the gear on the motor if it counts revolutions or something similar, as maybe it is moving the locking collar half way in, not enough to engage the "locked" switch, but enough to prevent the tires from moving independantly?

[paddlenbike]

The last paragraph is sort-of what I was saying. My rear diff would lock and unlock, but when it locked, it wasn't enough to trigger the diff lock detection switch. The locking collar was coming a millimeter or two short of the completely locked position. Remove the solenoid and move the collar to the locked state by hand. I bet you get your locked confirmation light then. If so, shift the alignment between the splines on the locking collar and the gear on the solenoid by one tooth.

[Seanz0rz]

ok ill try that tomorrow, thanks man!!!

(its ken right?) really appreciate it!

[paddlenbike]

(its ken right?) really appreciate it!


yes. Remember me from Pismo?

[Seanz0rz]

indeed i do, looking foward to next year.

im going to go out in a minute and try the necessary adjustments, see if that works.

[Seanz0rz]

so i will purpose this as an addendum to bob's writeup, as i feel it could be an easy thing for people to have trouble with.

thanks to paddlenbike (ken) for his help! would have taken me much longer to figure out!

so on to the fix:

To test if you locker works in your driveway: chock the front wheels, release the parking brake and put the transmission into neutral. Lift one tire off of the ground by putting a floor jack under one side of the axle. Engage the locker. Rotate the lifted tire in the air until it locks. It may already have locked without rotation. IF your “LOCKED” indicator does not illuminate, there is a simple fix. With one wheel up in the air, and the switch in the locked position, remove the actuator from the 3rd member. With the actuator set aside, look into the differential, you will see teeth laid out horizontally. Reach in the hole and push the teeth towards the center of the differential. Your “LOCKED” indicator should come on. If it does not, try moving the tire back and fourth to get it to lock. If you are confident the teeth are all the way towards the center of the differential, but the LOCKED indicator is not lit, remove the locked position switch, the nut with the smaller electrical connector in the center with a 27mm wrench. Test continuity in the switch by depressing the ball bearing side into the housing. If continuity does not exist even when the switch is closed, replace the switch. If the switch checks out ok, then double check your wiring. Ensure the light is not burned out or connected incorrectly.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Test the locker several times, making sure the locker fully engages and disengages each time. Finally, disengage the locker, lower the rear wheel and apply the parking brake, remove the wheel chocks and you are ready to go!

[paddlenbike]

No problem, glad it's fixed. :thumbup: