Seafoam Injector and Intake Cleaner - GOOD STUFF!

[bamachem]

DIRECTIONS:

GREAT ADVICE from MTL_4runner:

I put this in another thread but seems like it would be good to post it here too because there seems to be some issue when an engine hasn't been cleaned in some time and loose carbon can come off abruptly and foul sensors and spark plugs or clog catalytic converters. Here's what you want to do to prevent this....

You want to run the Seafoam fairly concentrated for the duration of the tank, so put at least 2 cans in (you can add as many as 4 on a full tank.....too many at once and you'll kill your gas milage for the tank so save the heavy doseage for later when you put it though the PCV hose), then fill the tank with the highest grade of gas you can get (ie 91+ octane or better, make sure it's a brand name like Chevron, Shell, etc) and run it until it is as close to empty as you feel comfortable (ie do your best to get somewhere between 1/8 tank and E without running out of gas). Try and resist the urge to top off the tank during that time even if the price of premium goes back down to $1 per gallon.

After your done the first part, then you can be pretty safe about running the next can straight in the engine (via the PCV or some other vacuum hose that goes directly into the intake). You can do 1/3 to 1/2 of a can each time for best results, but be patient after! Always remember to pour SLOWLY when your dumping it into the engine itself and then shut the engine off right after you finish adding the last drop. Leave it for at least 1 full hour and then restart and take it for a drive on the highway.

You may not notice a huge difference if your engine was pretty clean to begin with but I'd bet you'll see a decent improvement in gas mileage after with an engine that was in need. It is also suggested to clean the MAF when doing this for maximum effect (use the red extension tubes with the aerosol can to get the cleaner right down to the wires, but DO NOT TOUCH THEM.....after shake as much out as you can and air dry). I've switched over to using brake cleaner to clean the MAF because it does a much better job than electrical contact cleaner (with electrical cleaner the wires look better, but with brake cleaner they really look like new). Just be sure to let it thoroughly dry before starting the engine and pull the negative battery terminal to reset the ECU to relearn the new MAF readings.

For you guys in Canada, Seafoam is available at any NAPA store for just under $10 CDN per can.




PICS (courtesy of RunnerUp) of the PCV on a 3.4L 5VZ-FE Toyota Engine:

PCV with hose removed_____________________________________PCV hose removed, shown in relation to the throttlebody

http://4rnr.net/images/seafoam1.jpg http://4rnr.net/images/seafoam2.jpg




Original post from 6/21/2004:

Over the last few months, my gas mileage has been dropping off horribly. Last monday when I filled up I got 13.8 around town (I've been getting 15 in town and 16.5 on the highway). That was the last straw - I had to do SOMETHING. I picked up a can of seafoam along with some TB cleaner and did a little late spring cleaning. I poured the seafoam into the PCV hose with the engine running like on the directions. On the first application, I poured it very slow (1/3 can), then shut off the engine (again, like the directions said). Five minutes later when I started it up, it blew more smoke than the batmobile. After all the smoke subsided, I gave it another treatment, but poured a little faster so that it was almost stalling out. (again, 1/3 can). After starting up, it BILLOWED smoke for several minutes, but the engine just PURRED after it was finished. It was the smoothest running toyota engine I've ever seen. While I was at it, I gave the MAF a good bath along with the air filter and the TB.

Well, that got me back up to 17.2 on the highway on our trip to the beach (still not satisfied).

While I was down there, I picked up another two cans of seafoam and put both into my tank at 1/2 full (4X stronger than in the directions). I ran this for about 20 miles or so, then filled up at a cheapie station ($1.69 when everywhere else was $1.86) and got back on the interstate to drive home. I filled back up here in Birmingham, and I ended up getting 18.1 on the ride home. Not too bad. I can't wait to see if it goes up even more with Shell in the tank...

Now on startup, instead of having to hold the key for a sec for the engine to fire, it starts right up with ZERO hesitation. The injectors and intake must have been pretty bad (106k and counting)...

If you do the seafoam treatment, I'd recommend SEVERAL cans so you can give the intake a good cleaning along with the injectors.

[MTL_4runner]

They also carry Seafoam at Carquest too up here. I found it for $8. 99 over there.

*Edit* Jerks over at Carquest raised their price, now it's $10.99 so NAPA is cheaper!

[bamachem]

OUCH. it's about $5-$6 here. i guess that may be about right for those cannuky dollars, though! :D

[oly884]

Just a word of advice, don't suck the whole bottle down like some other brands say, good things don't follow.

[MTL_4runner]

OUCH. it's about $5-$6 here. i guess that may be about right for those cannuky dollars, though! :D


Hahaha....yeah and add to that a 15% sales tax and everything should come packaged with some KY.

That's why I load up on it every time I head to the US for vacation.

[jrallan26]

Using that much Seafoam be brutal on the valves? I have heard stories of people burning up valves using a lot of fuel additives....

[MTL_4runner]

Using that much Seafoam be brutal on the valves? I have heard stories of people burning up valves using a lot of fuel additives....


Not really. The biggest problem by far is fouling of downstream components (like O2 sensors and catalytic converters). If you got a large piece of carbon dislodged and it got stuck in an exhaust valve you may have an issue but again that is why you should ALWAYS run it in the gastank first and then use the treatment straight in the motor after. It costs more that way, but will save you major headache later.

[jrallan26]

Okay I see. Normally I just put the seafoam in the tank and not in the motor. I never wanted to tempt fate by hydrolocking the motor.

[MTL_4runner]

Another alternative to Seafoam is GM Top End Cleaner (There are 2 versions of the aerosol spray and liquid in a can). Here's some more good info which outlines how to use each when using them straight in the motor. Obviously similar to seafoam, you want to use it in the gastank first if you suspect that you have heavy carbon deposits. I'm not sure who makes it for GM (it's obviously a rebrand) but I've heard several people allude to the fact it may be made by the same company that makes the BG products (like BG44K). If anyone has any info on this by all means, please post it up.

Spray / Aerosol:

The aerosol cans of Top End Cleaner may be difficult to find/get so it may require a few calls to track some down. The can initially leads you to believe its for use as a carb cleaner leaving you somewhat clueless on where to spray it. The solution is to remove any small vacuum hose near the throttle body which gets full manifold vacuum (just use a finger to check, you should feel suction) and spray the cleaner directly into the vacuum tube. With the engine running, and your hand on the throttle lever, start spraying into the tube leading to the intake. The cleaner will cause harsh idle, and you will certainly want to give it a little gas by rotating the throttle lever slightly as it tries to die. Continue feeding the truck the entire can. When your almost out, go ahead and try to stall it out (ie keep the can on full blast and let off the throttle), if you don't succeed then just shut off the truck. You want it to sit, allowing the cleaner to break down the carbon for a decent amount of time. The can says 10-20 minutes, you should wait longer (more like 1-2 hours).


Liquid in a can:

It is available at most GM dealerships. At a GM dealer you'll pay about $6+ a can and the P/N is 1050002 but they'll usually have some right at the counter if you just ask for it by name. You will need a small tube (use a red tube like what comes with a can of WD40) and a 12" piece of vacuum hose small enough to fit in side the PCV hose). Now take that red tube and shove it in the end of the vacuum hose and then put the other end of the vacuum hose into the PCV vacuum hose (if needed, use some duct tape on the hose to create a tight seal between everything). The tube will basically act as a metering device so you can't suck in too much at once and hydrolock the motor while doing it (seems to be a common fear). This setup is what you will use to draw the Top End Cleaner out of the can. You will want to have opened the can of top engine cleaner to puncture the metal cap so when you are ready to begin, it is just a matter of unscrewing the cap. The idea here is to draw very slowly, with the plastic tube end. It will make the engine stall if you just submerge it, so use one hand to keep the RPMs on the motor up while you dip the tube in the cleaner with the other hand. Once you get down to about 1/4 of a can left take the PCV hose setup off, set it aside and reconnect the PCV valve. With the engine running, remove the brake booster vacuum line. Once you take that off, put a funnel in the end of the hose (it's best you figure out what funnel will fit that before you start all this). Holding the funnel in one hand take the remaining top engine cleaner and dump it in the funnel. You will want to stall the engine out. So dump it fast. Then you can hook up the brake booster, and get it put back together. Let it sit as mentioned above.

[Seanz0rz]

i did my honda this weekend, really seemed to help, but the entire can was probably a bit too much in hindsight.

[bigwapitijohnny]

Did the Seafoam treatment a couple of days ago, and WOW what a difference. I used a turkey baster and let the vacuum suck the stuff (1/3 bottle) in with plenty of air behind it, then put the rest in the gas tank. Smoked like a barfly during happy hour! neighbors got worried that my runner was going up in flames:D. Anyway, I am currently tracking my mileage since the treatment, good results so far.

regards,

BWJ

[91ToyTrck]

I have gone out and picked up some Seafoam for my truck. I'm in the process of trying to bring the 'ol girl back to 100% or as close as I can w/out upgrading to a newer engine. I'm doing some basic tune-ups and this is going to be added to the mix.

thanks again for another great post with some awsome information

[MTL_4runner]

Did the Seafoam treatment a couple of days ago, and WOW what a difference. I used a turkey baster and let the vacuum suck the stuff (1/3 bottle) in with plenty of air behind it, then put the rest in the gas tank. Smoked like a barfly during happy hour! neighbors got worried that my runner was going up in flames:D. Anyway, I am currently tracking my mileage since the treatment, good results so far.

regards,

BWJ


BWJ, great idea with the turkey baster. I think if you took the bulb off the top and just inserted the bottom of the turkey baster into the PCV vacuum tube that you could basically use it like a funnel (the opening at the bottom might still be too big to just pour the can in there so you'd probably still need to meter the amount you pour at once). I might have to try that next time and see how it works.

[Seanz0rz]

i used a small kitchen funnel that is now garage only.

i plan on doing this to the 4runner on sunday, i will let you know how it turns out!

[BennyTRD]

They also carry Seafoam at Carquest too up here. I found it for $8. 99 over there.

*Edit* Jerks over at Carquest raised their price, now it's $10.99 so NAPA is cheaper!


I wish!!! Just paid $29 for 2 cans at my local NAPA!!

[jrallan26]

Ouch!

[Elton]

so what does it do if you add it to your oil ?

[MTL_4runner]

I wish!!! Just paid $29 for 2 cans at my local NAPA!!


Holy heck man, you should be able to order it cheaper.

[BennyTRD]

They actually wanted $15/can!!! But I know the Manager and he cut em a deal. Well, sorta I guess. But still not as cheap as you guys can get it. Hope this stuff works good.

[MTL_4runner]

They actually wanted $15/can!!! But I know the Manager and he cut em a deal. Well, sorta I guess. But still not as cheap as you guys can get it. Hope this stuff works good.


I thought I was way overpaying at $9.99 CDN per can. :(

Seafoam is great stuff, but if you're paying that much you might also see if you can find some BG44K (ebay usually has a bunch for sale). The reason whay Seafoam caught on so much was the bang for the buck but at $15 per can you're getting near prices for profession quality injection system cleaners (which is what I'd consider BG44K).

[Texas Jim]

I have added Seafoam to the gas tank and got fair results. I just added one can and filled up the first time. I also keep topping off tank before it was through. I did it again after I noticed my MPG's going back down, and this time I just added one can 5to tank and drove it to 1/4 tank then filled up. I got back to the higher MPG's this time but I read this thread and I have dumped two cans this time and filled up I will let this tank go all the way to the low fuel light. I think 3 gal. left. Then I will try dumping into engine like your photo's show and give a foillow up report. Seafoam here is $5.99 a can. Not too bad compaired to what I have seen. TJ :tongueout:

[YotaJunky]

I recently used 3 cans of GM CLEENS (about $6/can) and it did make a noticeable difference in reducing pinging. FYI, the "old" bottles of GM CLEEN are being replaced by a 2 step product which apparently, is supposed to be easier on the enviroment. This is what I was told by one GM parts dealer. The new 2 step product was almost $20.

I also ran water through the TB purge line, but just a little at a time. I plan to do another GM CLEENS treatment soon, and let it sit for about 4 hours before blowing it out. Hopefully, the pinging will be resolved with a few more treatments.

[Osiris]

just picked up two cans for $11. The 16 oz. cans. I am running 87 octane in her right now and it is a full tank. Can I go ahead and put in the two cans or do I have to wait and run this tank out and fill up with high grade? Is there a significant difference?

[Seanz0rz]

im going to do mine this weekend.

Osiris, follow the directions on the can, i think it says one can for 8-xx gallons, so do a full strength. if you have a full tank, thats 18 gallons, that would be 2 cans. read for sure though, i might be wrong.

i wouldnt worry about the grade of gas. you might get some pinging, but i wouldnt worry, if you are, wait till the next tank.

[MTL_4runner]

just picked up two cans for $11. The 16 oz. cans. I am running 87 octane in her right now and it is a full tank. Can I go ahead and put in the two cans or do I have to wait and run this tank out and fill up with high grade? Is there a significant difference?


You can always pu the cans in at any time but the more concentrated it is the better it will clean the motor's internals. That's why I usually wait until the tank is down below halfway and then add the Seafoam and drive it until the "empty" light comes on. The higher grade of gas is not necessary either.

[YotaJunky]

Just bought 3 cans of seafoam from NAPA in Vancouver, BC for $10 a can. I should have picked up a few cans in the US while I was there over the weekend. I plan to run the seafoam through my gas tank this time. The AC Delco CLEENS helped significantly with pinging. I'm sure it's the same stuff that's called GM Top End Cleaer that sells in the US.

Troy

[Osiris]

im going to do mine this weekend.

Osiris, follow the directions on the can, i think it says one can for 8-xx gallons, so do a full strength. if you have a full tank, thats 18 gallons, that would be 2 cans. read for sure though, i might be wrong.

i wouldnt worry about the grade of gas. you might get some pinging, but i wouldnt worry, if you are, wait till the next tank.


Pinging? I hope not. I'll dump both cans in now and pick up a third to dump straight in the intake. The tank will prob run out by this weekend or next.

[swerks]

Any one using the BG 44k ????

[MTL_4runner]

Any one using the BG 44k ????


I have used it quite a bit in the past, it works very well too.
Alot of garages use that as their FI cleaning service.

[Fingerman]

I've been considering doing it to my 3RZ since I have 80K on it now, but I'm afraid I might mess up my motor. I'm gonna try it in a couple of weeks, though.

I've heard more than one person say that they locked up their motor when they ran it through the brake booster line. But I think they "flooded" the motor with it to the point that it died. Then, they said it wouldn't (and never did again) start.

[mkgarrison5]

i did 2 cans to 4 gallons in my truck and ran it till very empty and 1 can in the pcv valve and it worked great

i also did it to my gf's 05 corolla with 80k miles on it and it really helped her idleing, pinging and slight hesitation at starts. i left the seafoam soak for about 4 hours at half a can and it blew smoke for over 3-4 miles haha. bad too. my truck wasnt quite that bad

[SLC Punk]

I used a total of 4 cans on my 89 Yota. It has 169K miles and the intake was extremely dirty. I used 1 can in the PCV, 1/2 can in the oil, and 2 1/2 cans in approx 14 gallons of gas. It runs a lot better!

[YotaJunky]

Another update. I've been running water (small jet stream) into the hose from the brake booster and from another vacuum line near the TB and have noticed improvement with reduced pinging. I think the steam cleaning must be helping.

Troy

[MTL_4runner]

Another update. I've been running water (small jet stream) into the hose from the brake booster and from another vacuum line near the TB and have noticed improvement with reduced pinging. I think the steam cleaning must be helping.


Yes, it will work quite well too as does tranny fluid (which I don't recommend for other reasons). Water won't remove the varnish but it will clean the heavier carbon buildup which causes pinging. The engine must be at full operating temp for it to work though.

[YotaJunky]

Yes, it will work quite well too as does tranny fluid (which I don't recommend for other reasons). Water won't remove the varnish but it will clean the heavier carbon buildup which causes pinging. The engine must be at full operating temp for it to work though.


Tranny fluid? Do you introduce it into the intake in much the same way as you would seafoam?

[MTL_4runner]

Tranny fluid? Do you introduce it into the intake in much the same way as you would seafoam?

That is an old trick and yes, you used to pour it right into the intake (it would smoke for days after, but man it worked well). If you have an O2 sensor or a catalytic converter on your truck (BTW you have both) I wouldn't ever try that. Stick to Seafoam, it works great and you won't hurt anything if you use it properly.

[austintaco]

Did the Seafoam treatment a couple of days ago, and WOW what a difference. I used a turkey baster and let the vacuum suck the stuff (1/3 bottle) in with plenty of air behind it, then put the rest in the gas tank. Smoked like a barfly during happy hour! neighbors got worried that my runner was going up in flames:D. Anyway, I am currently tracking my mileage since the treatment, good results so far.

regards,

BWJ


I have been following the seafoam threads on several sites and after running it through the gas tanks in varying concentrations in both my Taco and my 89 V6, I decided to put it into the engine via the brake booster. Being a bit cautious, and after just doing a tune up and having my 89 running as good or better than when I bought her, I didn't want to mess anything up. However, I recently didn't pass emissions, and this was while I had a concentrated amount of SF in the gas tank.
I ran that through, and then checked the EGR modulator filter and it was completely clogged. I bought some filter material, replaced that and then cleaned the modulator with carb cleaner.
Ahhhh. It barely passed emissions, but I think the seafoam must have had something to do with it not passing earlier(that and the clogged egr filter). The reason I say this is that in January, with the engine running OK, it passed easily. However, after I did a tune up, and it was running like a champ, I did the seafoam in the tank it didn't pass.

Anyway, I just did almost a 1/2 can through the brakebooster very slowly. It never stalled, but came close. I did get a good amount of white smoke, but not as much as i expected. I shut it down and let it sit for about 20 minutes. When I started it up, I got some more white smoke, but not enough to really cause that much alarm. I am contributing this to the several gas treatments prior to the treatment in the engine.

I will let the board know if I see a drop or increase in mileage and if it smokes more when I take it out on the road.


Update: It did smoke a bit more when I went out on the highway, but it subsided quickly. I think I will do another 1/2 can, let it run through, and then check and/or change the spark plugs again.

[Seanz0rz]

has anyone tried the seafoam transmission treatment?

[reggie 00]

The 90 has some overdrive issues. I ran the treatment and it seemed to help a little, as in it hit overdrive a time or two. Still need to drop the pan and check the solenoids.

On something that is possibly not as hammered it would no doubt have been pretty good to do.

[mkgarrison5]

i wish there were before and after pics of what a good treatment of seafoam can do.. that would be cool. i know it works but just how good?

[MTL_4runner]

i wish there were before and after pics of what a good treatment of seafoam can do.. that would be cool. i know it works but just how good?


If I get my new borescope (provision PV2636-21), I'll try and hook it up to my digital camera and take pics for everyone.

[mkgarrison5]

that would be cool mtl.. can you make it a sticky with whatever you find so all of us will have a chance to see? oh btw on a side note i switched to durablend 10w30 for the summer and my motor is quieter but i can tell the the throttle response is slightly lower but its smooth and when i am on the interstate and passing someone it drops into lower gear quicker. when i had m1 syn 5w30 it would take longer to drop to a lower gear.. what does that mean?

[MTL_4runner]

that would be cool mtl.. can you make it a sticky with whatever you find so all of us will have a chance to see? oh btw on a side note i switched to durablend 10w30 for the summer and my motor is quieter but i can tell the the throttle response is slightly lower but its smooth and when i am on the interstate and passing someone it drops into lower gear quicker. when i had m1 syn 5w30 it would take longer to drop to a lower gear.. what does that mean?


Could have had something to do with the vacuum pressure the motor develops but I'm not entirely sure. Since switching to the Valvoline synthetic I have noticed a dramatic difference in how the engine performs too (better passing power, fuel economy, quieter, etc). I also switched my Honda Civic over and the incessant CEL has not come on since (I think it's still a bit early to know if the two were tied together, but if so that would be very intriguing to say the least).

[mkgarrison5]

well i am not displeased with durablend. would i use it in the future? hell why not, cant hurt. after this oil is used up around 5k miles ill go to a syn (not mobil) to see what kind of difference it will make. its hard to find valv syn here, penzoil platinum is easy to find, same as syntec...... i do like the fact that i saved roughly 10$ or more on the oil change though.. around the US they are lowering the price of M1 regular syn. so we will see. i am glad you like the syn. i could tell when i switched to M1 regular syn over a year ago too. but then came the motor chatter lol

[mkgarrison5]

btw my idle is smoother now.. i am curious if the mobile was a little too thin or maybe its the additives or something i dunno

[MTL_4runner]

btw my idle is smoother now.. i am curious if the mobile was a little too thin or maybe its the additives or something i dunno


I think Mobil 1 might be too thin in the lower viscosity ratings....I've heard others complain similarly of valve noise after switching to it. It's too expensive up here anyway so I won't bother trying it myself.

[mkgarrison5]

yeah its thin. almost to a 20wt spec... i wonder what valvoline syn's specs are for 5-30 and 10-30? whoops we are hijacking haha..

[MTL_4runner]

If I get my new borescope (provision PV2636-21), I'll try and hook it up to my digital camera and take pics for everyone.


I finally got that borescope on ebay (it took a while, but I got it for about $195 shipped :thumbup: ) and I'll try and get the camera adapter soon so I can take pics too. I can't wait to see how well this thing works. It should allow me to see alot of stuff that would be impossible otherwise (like blocked radiators, bad water pump impellers, leaks in the timing belt area, combustion chamber deposits....the list is almost endless and that's just for automotive uses). I'll post up when I get pics.

Here's what I got:
http://www.provision100.com/pv2_scope.html

[mkgarrison5]

SWEET MTL!! please post all the pics you want!! seriously..... i would love to see how the valvoline synpower looks in the motor.....

[towyota1]

seafoam is the best ive used. i useit in my trucks,boat,tractor,lawn mower,4 wheeler,and my weedeater. i talked the advanced auto parts store into ordering some,now all there local stores in this area carry it.