Cost of DIY E-Locker Swap

[EWAYota]

Just curious to know what everyone's paying for an E-Locker swap, cost of E-locker and any/all wiring needed.

I've noticed quite a few getting harnesses made or making they're own. Why not just use all the stock wiring?

Enlighten me E-Locker Guru's :tongueout:

[04 Rocko Taco]

check inchworms site for elocker's and harness and ecu controls. If you use the toy harness, you have to have an ECU for the locker itself. A lot of guys just run a couple of relays to lock and unlock. Talk to Seanz0rz about it, or Marc P, they both just finished a swap.

[Seanz0rz]

my third member cost me 600 or 650. i know they can be found cheaper, but this thing was MINT. studs and gasket cost me 20 i think, wiring was 20-40 (i had some parts lying around)

i did all my own labor, so that saved me about a grand right there! total cost for me: right around 700. if you really shop around and drive a hard bargain, you can find the elocker for as little as 300, you may have to rebuild it though. i have a grinder and welder, if you dont have a welder, a shop should be able to do that work for most definately under 100, and it should be around 25-50 (some people like to charge alot of money for nothing

going the stock route for me was just not an option, the ecu is 100 or more, and i would have to tap into switches and sensors, as i was not wired for the elocker at all.

ARB air lockers start at 700 just for the locker, not counting air compressor and professional install.

[Elvota]

Just curious if anyone knows of a method that would allow a E-Locker to be set up without any wiring. I know Downey makes a cable activated "switch", but I am looking for seomthing even less complicated.

What I'd like to know is if there is a way to build a lever or maybe install a bolt that could be turned by hand to lock the rear diff. Just reach under there and do it when you lock the front hubs for the trail.

So, on the trail always locked. On the road, always open.

I've got a E-Locker diff minus the actuator. My plan would be to install it on a vehicle designed for 90% trail use. I figure if originally a motor turns the gear that activates the locker, something manual at the diff could be devised.

A bit off topic for this thread... but if it could be done and someone really wanted to save some coin, might be an option.

[Robinhood4x4]

I got my high pinion locker from Marlin for my solid axle so that was normal cost.

People don't use the factory computer because it's expensive. You can wire up your own for about $10. I spent a little more just because I got a really nice switch. Inchworm uses about $10 in material.

If you follow the wiring diagrams on the net (thanks Ken!) it's pretty easy to build.

Elvota, the only problem I see is if the splines don't match up and you have to drive a little so that they start to mesh. The motor will tend to push the sleeve into the splines until they line up. You'd probably have to come up with a mechanism that, when engaged, will continuously push the sleeve. A spring would work. If you have access to a milling machine you could come up with something pretty easily. Otherwise you just have to be creative about using a welder and grinder.

[Bob98SR5]

DJ,

Hmm..lemme see if i can remember...

e-locker = about $300 after shipping costs
gasket for use as a template = around $5?
switch = robinhood made one for me for about $10 (which he refused to accept)
wiring = hmm...maybe $12 in wiring?
all the studs = $15
sky mfg elocker guard = $50 w/ shipping. optional but worth it to protect that actuator and motor

then there's the misc supplies like brake fluid and if you are near the rear axle seal change interval, whatever that costs. it was cheap.

all in all, i think i spent $500. i bought someone's rear axle for ~$100 shipped. so it couldve been closer to $400. i still have my original CA axle. wanna buy? Its from california! :)

bob

[EWAYota]

Bob,

Thanks for the info. Sounds very doable. Gonna have to start networking to find a E-locker now. Then I'll just have to decide which size tires I want to run so I can regear it properly.

You can keep your axle, btw, though I'll be sourcing another rear to minimize downtime with the truck.

[Bob98SR5]

DJ,

Yeah, the biggest expense will be the e-locker. Hard to bargain b/c they are hard to come by, but good luck!

Bob

[EWAYota]

I've got a couple of connections who might be able to score a deal for me. Gonna have to catch up with them here soon. Got a few other details I will need to decide on and then I'll press forward.

Thanks again for the info.

[ecchamberlin]

I am sure you have thought of this but if the locker you score has different gears than you have now and will still have in the front unless you regear that also, it may be another cost you will want to figure in.

ie. if you find one that is $100 cheaper but you will have to do gears also then you may want to get one that is a bit more expensive but doesn't need to be regeared.

Just thought I'd mention that.

[EWAYota]

Oh yeah, I know. Lowest I guess they come is 4.30's (unless I'm wrong) and I'll be going 4.88's or 5.29's.

[Seanz0rz]

mine is 4.10. i kept stock gearing because my next set of tires may be 32 instead of 33,

[BruceTS]

I just swapped out an e-locker third yesterday. The rear end locked up, so I thought she blew the ring and pinion. Turned out to be one of the spider gears shear off at the spline end of the axle. Really weird break, once I get time I plan to tear it down and see if anything else may have caused the failure, if not I'll rebuild it and keep it for a spare. Now I have 2 extra one's..... a 4.10 and a 4.30.......

[EWAYota]

Now I have 2 extra one's..... a 4.10 and a 4.30.......


So if I can't find any, I know who's got them all :clap:

[BruceTS]

BTW it wasn't my rig that blew the third, but a friend. This is the first time I have ever seen a spider gear break in this way, all the teeth are fine, it simply twised off at the axle....

[slosurfer]

Bumping this thread because I have an elocker on the way to me and I've got a couple questions

1. I have heard that you don't have to add the extra weld metal and can get away without it, is this true?

2. Who wants to help me get it installed before pismo? :laugh:

[Robinhood4x4]

I'll help you, come on out. I'll even do all the welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. :tongueout:

[20005spd]

i welded a little, i dont think you can get away without it

[Seanz0rz]

likewise. i really think you need to weld. im positive there should be someone up there willing to help you out on that.

[YotaFun]

Bumping this thread because I have an elocker on the way to me and I've got a couple questions

1. I have heard that you don't have to add the extra weld metal and can get away without it, is this true?

2. Who wants to help me get it installed before pismo? :laugh:


For the love of god install your sliders!
Congrats on your purchase, I am presuming you got them from Mark here in PA?

[YotaFun]

An i should be reading up on this myself, i mean i do have an e-locker on the way myself....

RIGHT WAB!!!

[Marc P]

I wasn't going to add the welds to my housing, but once I had the notch cut and cleaned I changed my mind. Had a local guy throw a bead on the edge for $25.00.

In this pic you can see how thin it gets, and where I had the welding done on the outside of the long studs...Keep in mind that mine is the front housing...the rear may be slightly different

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b251/MarcP1971/e-lock008.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b251/MarcP1971/e-lock005.jpg

[slosurfer]

I'll help you, come on out. I'll even do all the welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. :tongueout:


Thanks Steve, I just called him and changed the shipping address to your house. I'll be over this weekend. YOu can build me a front bumper too while we're there. :flipoff:


Avy, :flipoff: I'll get the sliders on eventually. My rockers are pretty safe out there at the dunes. Buy your freakin plain ticket before gas skyrockets again! Yes, I did buy that one from Mark in PA. Couldn't pass up the price for it with a brand new set of 5.29's!


Marc, thanks for the pic, that helped a bunch. Looks like I'll definately add the extra metal. I know a guy who will do it for me. :thumbup:

[paddlenbike]

I would not recommend doing it without adding the weld to increase the sealing surface.

Keep in mind you can sell your existing non-elocked V6 third for $150+ to the rock crawling guys. The V6 third is an upgrade over the 4 cylinder one.

[slosurfer]

Thanks Ken, I agree, after looking at Marc's pic, I can definately see why it is needed.

I think I already have a buyer for my rear third and front diff already. Helps that I have factory 4.88's. :D

[Seanz0rz]

only thing i would have done different on mine, the clearances for the ring gear, i would have made bigger, its nearly impossible to get mine out and requires one to lift and one to turn the flange to get the gear in the perfect alignment to get it out...

[slosurfer]

Sean, did you just clearance them to the size of the gasket and wish you had made them slightly bigger?

[Seanz0rz]

yea, i tried my best to get them as big as needed with out taking out too much metal, but in hindsight i should have taken out more. it doesnt need to be "taller" (as the axle sits on the vehicle, the slots need to be wider.

[waskillywabbit]

An i should be reading up on this myself, i mean i do have an e-locker on the way myself....

RIGHT WAB!!!


No, I threw them away. Sorry.

:guitar:

[YotaFun]

An i should be reading up on this myself, i mean i do have an e-locker on the way myself....

RIGHT WAB!!!


No, I threw them away. Sorry.

:guitar:


:big dramatic: NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooo...o.o.o...o.o.o.o......o.......

I have a weak heart went it come to my Tess (and the $$ I spend on her) so don't play too much lol!

[waskillywabbit]

I'll have it all out this week and get it cleaned up this weekend, ready to ship and go out Sept 22...or at least that is my target date to take it to UPS to get your shipping quote. :D

:guitar: