Urgent Spark plug and wire replacement help needed!!

[Erich_870]

Here's the deal: I ordered NGK Iridium IX plugs and the NGK wire set from Sparkplugs.com.

Followed Bob's Tech article for replacing spark plugs and now it sounds like I'm not firing on all cylinders :tapedshut:

How can I trouble shoot this issue?! I replaced each wire separately as I did the spark plugs, so I'm positive they go to the right connections (not to mention their lengths would prohibit the crossing of said wires)

I've pulled the air intake back out to check for loose wire or plugs and I have found none.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Erich

[oly884]

Are there problems with the old wires, or just upgrading? If you still have the old wires and they work, just swap those till you can diagnose the new wires. A multimeter will help you out there.

[BruceTS]

did you check the plug gap before installing them?

[YotaFun]

did you check the plug gap before installing them?


X2

[Erich_870]

The new wires were just "might as well" upgrades. I still have the old ones.

I didn't gap the spark plugs... I could have sworn I read some where that they were gaped from the factory and you'd break them if you tried. Maybe I've mixed up my info with another spark plug?? :dunno:

Any other thoughts?

I really appreciate the help so far :)

Erich

[YotaFun]

Plugs from the stealer come pre-gapped from the factory,
its other plugs that you have to gap properly.
IIRC

Do you still have you old plugs?
IF so Check the gap and compare it to your new plugs.

Just a thought.

[Erich_870]

I can't find where I read the "no gaping" thing now, so I'm starting to think I'm crazy. :hillbill:

I have the old plugs. They are dual electrode Denso's. The center pole is visibly eroded so the gap is now 0.051". :spank:

I guess I'll have to pull out the easiest one and just see what I have.

Erich

[Erich_870]

Ok, So I just went out and gaped each plug. They were all at 0.040 and I made them 0.044. I also made sure the boots on cylinders 1,3,5 are all the way seated. I don't know if they were since they needed a little force to get that final "pop" all the way down.

I started up the rig again and it was stillshuddering. :chair:

Is there anything I could have disconnected that I've missed that could cause these problems? Maybe its not the spark plugs or wires at all :headscratch:

Added: The number 3 spark plug was black/sooty when I pulled it out.

Erich

[YotaFun]

Hmm, I am stumped...
Maybe Bruce will chime in again.

Double checked all hoses to make sure they were connected?

[slosurfer]

I seem to remember that you don't gap the iridium plugs. Are you getting the intake all the way back on, or any vaccuum hoses unplugged?

[Erich_870]

I seem to remember that you don't gap the iridium plugs. Are you getting the intake all the way back on, or any vaccuum hoses unplugged?


I'M NOT CRAZY, I'M NOT CRAZY!!! :bowdown: :clap: Too late now though. They were all 0.040" though, so who knows.

Any idea why the CEL would be flashing? That seems like a dead give away of something... Beats me what that "something" could be :headscratch:

I disconnected/reconnected the two vacuum hoses on the air intake resonator and the hose that connects to the plenum (?) above the #3 spark plug on the drivers side. I've not reinstalled the testing connector or those two brackets above the drivers side plugs.

Added: I have the air intake completly on each time I start the rig.

Erich

[Bob98SR5]

gawd, i havent had anyone have these kinds of issues after using my writeup. man, i feel bad, eric!

looking at my writeup, did you check/make sure:

1) step 2: that the harnesses are properly seated into the the coil packs?
2) step 4: there's a few things that you should check there. hose, OBDII sensor bolt

thats all that sticks out in the writeup


slosurfer: dude, thats heeelarious! avatar looks just like you :)

[Erich_870]

gawd, i havent had anyone have these kinds of issues after using my writeup. man, i feel bad, eric!

looking at my writeup, did you check/make sure:

1) step 2: that the harnesses are properly seated into the the coil packs?
2) step 4: there's a few things that you should check there. hose, OBDII sensor bolt

that's all that sticks out in the writeup


slosurfer: dude, thats heeelarious! avatar looks just like you :)



Lol, not to worry Bob, I'm sure I screwed up some where, I just need some help finding it :screwy:

Step 2: I've double checked, all of the harnesses are nice and snug.
Step 4: It is unbolted at the moment. I dropped the bolt and need to get it from the skid plate. Do you think this is the problem? Do I need to have electrical continuity or something?

Erich

[GSGALLANT]

Why spend hours trying to troubleshoot something yourself without using the tools that Toyota installed in your truck for you? You said your CEL is flashing... go get the codes read and post up your results. If it's a misfire... you'll have a misfire code recorded... it will even tell you which cylinder.

[MTL_4runner]

Why spend hours trying to troubleshoot something yourself without using the tools that Toyota installed in your truck for you? You said your CEL is flashing... go get the codes read and post up your results. If it's a misfire... you'll have a misfire code recorded... it will even tell you which cylinder.


X2

Get the CEL read since it will help greatly in the diagnosis.

[Bob98SR5]

gawd, i havent had anyone have these kinds of issues after using my writeup. man, i feel bad, eric!

looking at my writeup, did you check/make sure:

1) step 2: that the harnesses are properly seated into the the coil packs?
2) step 4: there's a few things that you should check there. hose, OBDII sensor bolt

that's all that sticks out in the writeup


slosurfer: dude, thats heeelarious! avatar looks just like you :)



Lol, not to worry Bob, I'm sure I screwed up some where, I just need some help finding it :screwy:

Step 2: I've double checked, all of the harnesses are nice and snug.
Step 4: It is unbolted at the moment. I dropped the bolt and need to get it from the skid plate. Do you think this is the problem? Do I need to have electrical continuity or something?

Erich



i dont know if thats the problem or not, but i do believe it needs to be grounded in order to pull the CEL that you should post up here so we can help :)

[20005spd]

just to ad a little, if your mil is flashing then dont drive the truck. you must have a misfire, its usually what causes the light to flash since a large enough misfire can destroy the cat convertor. are you certain all the conncetions are clicking together? ive had coils break apart inside while removing them. if you can borrow or buy a generic cheapo code reader you can find which cyl is misfiring, then move that coil to another spot and see if the misfire follows. same goes for the plugs and wires, just switch one thing at a time so you can see what the cause is. good luck :thumbup:

[Erich_870]

A huge thanks to everyone who responded so quickly with tips and suggestions. I must now humbly submit my name for this years "Blind Retard Award" along with the "Over Confident, Unwilling to Double Check for Safety's Sake Award." :shake:

Turns out I had plug wires 1 and 3 swapped :chair: I remember thinking "Self, why does the #1 wire look a little tight and #3 look a little longer than necessary?", "It MUST be an inaccuracy with these aftermarket wires" :king:

I checked my CEL (it was already on due to a reoccurring 420 code) and found nothing else was listed. I couldn't get my reader to work with the laptop last night in the 10 deg temps outside, so I came home at lunch today.

It seems to be running just fine now. I filled up this evening, so we'll see if there is any increase in fuel efficiency.

Thanks again for your help and sorry all the hulabalu was for nothing :spank:

Erich

[20005spd]

unfortunately this is how you learn. i bet youll never do it again, or if you do itll be the first thing that comes to mind :D

[Erich_870]

So an update...

Those new spark plug wires didn't last very long :chair: I was out in the dark last night doing an oil change and noticed that my 3rd cylinder (back-most drivers side) wire was grounding to the intake runner!! There was even a singe mark! Should I go with stock or is there a better brand than the ones from Sparkplug.com?

Erich

[Nick]

Whoops! It happens! I hate to shove it in your face but this is why I always double and triple check stuff. It takes time but eh, it's not like I'm working at the dealership anymore!

I've always used the double ground NGK sparkplugs (from sparkplug.com) and the corresponding wires and I've never had a problem. I just recently put new plugs and wires in after 30k and the old ones still looked alright.

[Erich_870]

So would you say the problems with my NKG wires is probably an isolated incident? Should I just go back to stock wires?

Erich

[Erich_870]

Anyone else have suggestions on where to get spark plug wires?

Erich

[CJM]

I would say NGK wires are fine, probably just your luck you burnt one up.

[corax]

clean the wire, wrap the area that's arcing with a layer or two of electrical tape (or Rescue Tape if you have it) and move the wires so they're not laying against metal.

[MTL_4runner]

Also double check that the wires are all properly seated on their connections because as we all know electricity will follow the path of least resistance and if the wire it not contacting either the coil or the spark plug, you can see arcing occur while the engine is running. You should not need tape or extra insulators on a brand new set of wires so if it continues, exchange them and get another set.

[corax]

You should not need tape or extra insulators on a brand new set of wires so if it continues, exchange them and get another set.


Agreed, just a cheap fix to get him down the road until new wires arrive + if the wire is chaffing against metal, it'll prolong it's life

[Erich_870]

I'm going to have to get a new set. I installed these current ones in Jan 2008, so I don't think I have any warranty to exchange them. I guess I'll just chalk it up to the chaffing being the cause and get another set of NGK's.

Erich