Corax's '88 Runner [Archive] - UltimateYota.com Forums

corax

03-09-2008, 04:31 PM

Home fab front bumper - 2" OD tube ~.120" thick (just under 1/8") - I'm going to run 3 driving lights on the front & I may try to retro fit a winch tray on there yet - under the front bumper mounts I also have the Front Range Offroad front crossmember reinforcement welded on, it's 1/4" plate that'll prevent the crossmember from bending if hit and also prevent the bumper mount nuts from pulling through the factory sheet metal if

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3857/1000024ym1.jpg

mounted with 3 bolts from the front on both sides + the 2 tow hook bolts under the front frame, all mounting plates are 1/4" - the verticles off the front bracket needed to be "squeezed" a bit then cut flat to fit between the 2 lower bolts, the front mount plate extends up and covers the body cross member (in a frontal collision the mount plate will hit the crossmember) - the bottom brackets are bent and the tubes welded on from the side to fit in the body mount pocket

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8310/1000277jx4.jpg
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/7369/1000274qn8.jpg

Home fab rear bumper - 2" OD tube ~.120" thick (just under 1/8"), 1/4" mount plates (same as most receivers) - mounted with 3 bolts from the side & 1 underneath on both sides - future plans might include side guards and dual swing outs (one for fuel/water cans & one for an extra spare) - originally I copied the pattern for the mount plates from a tow receiver and just extended it to "capture" the main tube, after a 1" body lift to accomodate the radiator for the 7MGE I needed to raise it to get rid of the bumper gap - thats why the side plates are in 2 pieces now, when I get time I plan on welding some bar to bridge the 2 and prevent the whole thing from rotating downward when I tow

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/6162/1000026ej3.jpg
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4484/1000275ro5.jpg

edit 5-25-08 - Got a bit of work done to the rear bumper to finish it off.
Added side hoops
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0512.jpg
linked both side plates with some small square tube
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0513.jpg
previously I had a 90* bracket bolted onto the side plates that bolted onto the bottom of the frame rail - now it's welded 1/4" with gussets at each end
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0514.jpg
finished product
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0515.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0516.jpg

corax

04-21-2008, 09:40 AM

I know Total Chaos sells one, but I wanted it flat on the bottom so I could bolt a skid on later (and link to a Budd Built cross member, which is another future mod). I know Sonoran Steel makes one, but it looks like major overkill (and I'm trying to limit how much weight I add). I had one from Front Range Offroad on a previous project, but they don't make them anymore & I didn't like the way it bolted on. I didn't want a weld on truss because I'd like the option of unbolting it to make dropping the front diff easier.

This is what I came up with, design is based on the Front Range truss, but with weld on mounts. Fab time + install was only ~4 hrs using 2" x 1/2" channel and 2" 1/8" flat bar.
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/7999/1000015ac8.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/9292/1000017oo9.jpg
installed and painted - everything was assembled & both mounts drilled & bolted with it off the vehicle. I tapped it into place between the lower arm perches & welded up the mounts. that way I know there is no slop in the mounts and everything is a nice tight fit. It's strong enough I can jack up the front of the truck with no visible deflection on the truss
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/6048/1000021tz2.jpg

Since I spent so much time on the radiator and fan getting them to fit, a bit of pretection was in order. I built and installed an expanded steel grill to keep the rocks out of my radiator. used 1/4" square rod on the sides to keep it from bending as easily, it's the gloss black bit under the factory grill

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4729/grill2nd7.jpg

Roof rack was swiped off an Isuzu Rodeo, the cross bars were shortened so it would fit between the rear windows. It's mounted with 8 6mm stainless bolts through the shell with brake line cut to length to prevent the walls of the shell from distorting when everything was tightened down. In addition to the factory rubber gasket under the side rails I used just a touch of RTV to prevent and water leaks, so far I've had none.

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/3096/1000028gc8.jpg

corax

04-27-2008, 06:20 PM

a bit more work on cooling for the 7MGE - I'm starting to suspect that I may have sized the radiator a bit small, but then again I wasn't really figuring on being in the South West and having to deal with that much heat. The issue now is on long steep grades at highway speed it'll start to get a bit too warm. the radiator fan doesn't come into play at highway speed, so maybe this is my problem . . .

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2104/1000282nq2.jpg

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4654/1000284lx9.jpg

*edit* 6-14-2008
- installed a 160 degree thermostat - no one sells one that low for Toyota (52mm thermostat), but I found a 54mm thermostat rated to 160. I just had to dremel ~1 mm off the O.D. and it fit perfect
- installed a 210 degree 3/8" NPT fan switch that I got off Ebay, but it doesn't seem to work - Shooting the mounting boss with my temp gun it reads 220 degrees but the fan still isn't turning on (and the temp gauge in the dash is uncomfortably high), I can ground the wire going to the switch and the fan turns on - I think I want to find a 185 degree switch anyway now

corax

05-16-2008, 12:27 PM

Another trip to the CA Smog Referee Station

1st visit on 2/08 - passed visual and functional - failed tailpipe
%CO %O2 HC CO% NOx (PPM)
test rpm meas meas max meas max meas max meas
15mph 1723 13.6 1.3 121 144 0.70 0.59 1006 3078 GROSS POLLUTER
25mph 2787 14.6 0.2 101 62 0.90 0.17 866 1450 FAIL

-Moved Cat Converter closed to engine so it lights off sooner
-Ditched the 12" elec pusher fan, fabbed new radiator mounts to fit a 14" elec
pusher fan
2nd visit on 5/08 - passed visual and functional - failed tailpipe again, but improved
%CO %O2 HC CO% NOx (PPM)
test rpm meas meas max meas max meas max meas
15mph 1670 13.8 1.0 121 133 0.70 0.38 1006 1687 FAIL
25mph 2751 14.5 0.2 101 40 0.90 0.07 866 1101 FAIL

I'm thinking I need a bigger catalytic converter with more internal surface area to clean the exhaust - the one I have now is kinda small

corax

05-22-2008, 06:20 PM

Another project presented itself when I found a Northwest Metal Products auxiliary gas tank on ebay for $170. These retail for $600 + shipping when new, so this was too good of a deal to pass up. It mounts above the spare tire and adds another 14 gallons of gas to the truck. Incidently the spare tire will sit ~ 4inches lower than stock, so until I plan and build a swing out tire carrier I'll have to be careful not to drop the rear end off a ledge

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0448.jpg
CARB legal, but not California legal (?!?) - so install will have to wait till I pass at the Smog Referee Station

The exterior of it was completely rusted, however the interior looked nice and clean (the only rust inside was where the side mounts were welded and the galvanizing was burned off). I was too excited to get started to take a before pic, but this is after I was done prepping the outside.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0450.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0449.jpg

I got all the rust off first with a wire cup brush mounted onto my 4" grinder. When it was clean enough I painted the outside with POR-15, which is my favorite rust killer. After letting it bake in the rear of my truck with the windows closed for a week (90+ degrees outside), I layed on 3 coats of spray truck bed coating and put it in the back again to "cure" for a week in the So Cal heat.

This is supposed to be a gravity feed system supplying the main tank through a fitting screwed into the main tank drain plug. However, I don't like the idea of having a fitting on the bottom of the main tank - the main tank is already low enough & I don't want to worry about hitting a rock and draining both tanks. So my plan is to use a cheap gas pump to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank through the filler neck vent hose. The only downside to this set-up will be that I have to remember to turn off the pump when the aux tank is empty or I risk burning up the transfer pump which is not designed to run dry.

corax

06-14-2008, 07:16 PM

Had a good junkyard find a couple weeks ago - I was looking for a cylinder head to P&P, but instead found an '82 Celica Supra with an F303 axle code, which means it had a 7.5" LSD differential which would fit nicely on the front of my '88 (F=7.5" differential, the 3 at the end designates it as a 2 pinion LSD). This thread has all the pertinent info, except it fails to mention that you need to grind 1/4" off both stub axles before sliding them into the differential (if you don't, the passenger side won't seal and the driver side will push the bearing in the halfshaft tube out 1/4") - The *official* 7.5" Supra LSD into a IFS diff thread. (http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=850240&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=14&fpart=7&vc=1)

out of the Celica Supra housing - I ended up reusing the original Celica bearings, even though they had 205k miles on them they still looked good
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0667.jpg

Disassembled - I ended up shimming the LSD springs ~ .075" to add just a little bit more bite. Not shown, but the side gear clutch material still looked really good for the mileage on this unit
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0668.jpg

To me, this looks like it should have steel plates splined to the side gear for better torque biasing.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0671.jpg

I didn't take any pics of the install and set up as that is covered in the link. I was able to get the same exact backlash as what it had using a combination of the Celica Supra shims and the shims that were in the 4runner housing. One word of caution, when I called a Toyota dealer to order a shim, they told me that the part number was good but has been discontinued.

I still need to test it out (maybe Hungry Valley this weekend as it's right up the road) and after I put a few miles on it change the oil.

edit: here's the LSD rebuild/upgrade kit: http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html

corax

06-16-2008, 03:52 PM

After swapping engines I’ve had cooling problems pulling my trailer on long grades. The cooling system works fine the rest of the time in stop/go traffic or at highway speeds, I just needed a bit of extra cooling on long steep grades or in the desert. This could also work to help wash off the radiator for those who like to play in the mud (the washer motor I got really is that strong).

Hayden has a product called Rapid Cool Radiator Mist System, but it usually retails for ~$ 80 (click me-> Radiator Mist System (http://www.haydenauto.com/new-products/radiator-mist-system.htm)). I built my system for $10 plus a few spare bits I already had collecting dust. It’s a pretty simple system and only took a few hours for a nice clean install. Now I won’t have to worry about desert temps or cross my fingers that the head gasket will last pulling a grade.

Here's the major components. A junkyard windshield washer motor that I swiped from a Mercedes, a “large” size universal radiator reservoir, 4’ 7/64” rubber tube, 20” 5/16” brake line - you'll also need a momentary switch and some wiring to run run the pump along with an anti-siphon valve to prevent the system from leaking down.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/partsneeded.jpg

I had to modify the reservoir a bit to mount nicely where I wanted. Using a heat gun I heated the bottle where I wanted it to change until the white plastic turned translucent. Then I pushed in on the corner with a block of wood and held it until the plastic cooled and hardened (cools much quicker if you run water over it).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/25qtbottle.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/reservoirlocation.jpg

The spray bar needs to have a directed spray pattern so it doesn’t just shoot one solid stream at one part of the radiator. Using my mighty Dremel and a thin cut off wheel, I made 4 verticle slices in the brake line – 2 offset above centerline and 2 below centerline for more even water distribution across the radiator - if you use the heavy duty (thicker) cut off wheels, the spray may be weaker and use more water, the thin wheels keep the pressure in the spray bar up
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cuttingspraybar.jpg

Close up shot of the slots in the spray bar - I used a pair of vice-grips to pinch the brake line closed and just for kicks soldered the end on top of that
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/sprayslots.jpg

I mounted the spray bar in the grill behind one of the thicker horizontal sections by cutting 2 half circles and recessing it back in, this will help keep it from shifting around. I decided to use plastic zip ties to hold it in place, although a more permanent solution would be JB Weld (once you're happy with the spray pattern)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/spraybaringrille-1.jpg

When I run the water without the fan on, you can actually see it coming out the backside of the radiator. The pusher fan whips the water around fairly well and completely saturates the radiator. Although it shouldn't be an issue, I made sure the water didn't spray directly onto the fan motor. I timed about 40 seconds of continuous use with the 2.5qt reservoir, but figure I’ll only need to use this for 1 or 2 seconds at a time, so it should last.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/waterspray.jpg

Washer pumps are not self priming, so they must be located slightly below or even with the bottom of the reservoir. Because they’re mounted below the water level, you’ll need an anti-siphon check valve to prevent all the water from just leaking out constantly. These can be found on most rear washer hoses near the actual rear washer spray nozzle. Locate it as close to the spray bar as possible to prevent having to refill the entire water hose every time.
- water flow needs to go in the direction of the arrow -
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/antisiphon.jpg

For wiring I’m running a push button momentary switch that supplies 12V to the pump. The pump ground goes to chassis. This little washer motor draws ~ 5 amps! but the biggest momentary switch I could find was 3A, as long as I'm only pressing it for a few seconds at a time there should be no issue.

That’s pretty much it. When I see the temps start to climb, I push the button for a couple seconds, wait half a minute and push the button again until the temps start to drop.

edit 6-19-2008 finished the install

finished mounting the washer motor - welded a bracket together and secured the motor to it with a hose clamp
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0782.jpg
bent a piece of lexan to mount the momentary switch to and wired it up
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0785.jpg

corax

06-29-2008, 05:56 PM

In my compulsive drive for new projects to accomplish every weekend I though I'd slap on some MSD lovin'. I already had 2 MSD 6A's, but needed the 8910EIS adapter (small red box) to make it work with Toyota's coil igniter. I got one off ebay for $20 and set out to mount everything . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0595-1.jpg

I already had the MSD Blaster 2 coil installed previously (another $3 junkyard find), but thought I'd mount it on the passenger side since everything else was getting upgraded.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0596.jpg

corax

07-26-2008, 04:43 PM

a little bit of exhaust work this weekend in preparation for the smog ref - It's 2.5" all the way back with the pipes slid together and 3" wide band clamps sealing everything (antiseize on the pipes where they slide in so I can take them back apart and band clamps because I like them better than u-bolt clamps)

old exhaust and tiny MagnaFlow cat - it has so many flanges because originaly the cat was further back, but everything got moved around after the first smog visit to get the cat closer to the engine
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0090.jpg

old tailpipe
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0091.jpg

new cat - looks much bigger, so hopefully the increased capacity and surface area will scrub the last remaining bit of bad exhaust gas
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0092.jpg

new pipe from the cat back to my FlowMaster Delta 50
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0093.jpg

new tailpipe - I made the tailpipe before throwing the 32" spare underneath and before the new cat and pipe was installed, now I have to move the tailpipe a bit further away from the spare . . . who knows, I might have to redo the tailpipe when I put my aux tank on.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/100_0094.jpg

corax

08-19-2008, 04:53 PM

a little bit of cylinder head work this weekend to correct a coolant leak between cyl 1 & 2 on the exhaust side, there wasn't any fluid mixing and I didn't find any signs of cylinder leakage on the gasket when I got it apart
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/cyl1-2coolantleakexhside.jpg

but before the actual work there is much prep. I sourced a Pick-A-Part 7MGE cyl head to prep so the whole job would be just swapping parts

after a thorough cleaning this is what I was left with on the intake side
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/oldintake.jpg
originally I just wanted to smooth out the air flow a bit (take out some of the sharp edges by the valve seats, ect)but it turned into this with the help of my trusty Dremel
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/newintake.jpg
exhaust before
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/oldexhaust.jpg
and after - the exhaust side was a PAIN because it's so much tighter
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/newexhaust.jpg
combustion chamber
valves all cleaned up and organized so they go back into the same holes
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/valves.jpg
most of the power you can get out of an engine will come from the cylinder head, and being who I am, I pay attention to the details. after getting a cylinder head surfaced it will have these ridges or burrs along any opening . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/millridge.jpg
which need to be cleaned, or it could lead to preignition from glowing hot metal fragments. I used 200 grit sandpaper. to give a nice round edge. the combustion chamber has "squish" all around the circumference, so I wasn't worried about undercutting the headgasket. I also cleaned all the head bolt holes and coolant passages
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/millridgeremoved.jpg
all back together and ready to go, the exhaust valve seats were touched up at the machine shop to remove some minor pitting but the valves were all perfect so I left them alone
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/headassembled.jpg

this is kinda neat. the 7MGE cams and sprockets each have 3 holes and a removable dowell pin. when you get the head machined the distance from the crank sprocket to the cam sprocket is reduced, so if there is no cam adjustment the intake and exhaust timing actually become retarded. these holes are spaced slightly different from cam to sprocket and allow you to advance or retard the cam timing as needed. I didn't mess with it at this point because I lost my degree wheel . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/camend.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/camsprocket.jpg
I also found my vacuum leak, which I am pretty sure led to high NOx readings and my failed smog (likely did that one myself when I installed the EGR last year)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/Injectoro-ring.jpg
any repair is an excuse to upgrade, right? the 7MGe weakness is low head bolt torque (58 ft/lbs) with the ARP studs it is recommended to torque to 80ft/lbs using ARP lube or 120 ft/lbs using 10w-30 oil
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cyl%20head/ARPstuds.jpg
the biggest pain of the whole job was valve adjustment. I had shims from 3 different engines to choose from and was able to get everything in spec except 1 exhaust valve (.001" too tight, all other exhaust valves are on the tight side). I'll need to go back through valve adjust again once everything settles in

I did have a problem starting it once everything was together, and I spent 1-2 hours going through distributor set-up, ignition, and everything else . . . until I saw the vise grips on my rubber fuel line that I had put there to prevent gas from siphoning out of the tank while I worked. After that though it started right up. a wide open throttle test drive up the I-5 Grapevine will have to wait till this weekend

corax

11-17-2008, 01:15 PM

Everyone's seen those cheap utility lights mounted to the side of a semi or on a tractor, doing a bit of research I found out how to make one of these into a decently bright driving light just by swapping in a new sealed beam. This will provide a cheap, light weight and vibration resistant light to help me avoid all the deer just waiting to jump in front of me when I'm bombing down country roads at night.

The heart of this is this sealed beam, NAPA p/n LMP 4509 (~$15). It's listed as an aircraft spotlight beam, and is rated for 100W at 13V producing 110,000 candlepower - if you can get a full 14V down to them expect a bit more
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2652.jpg

The rear of the 4509 bulb has screws to secure the wiring
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2661.jpg

Here's the utility light I'll be using for this (Harbor Freight <$10)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2663.jpg

Start by getting the old light out of the rubber housing. Be careful not to chip the light when you pry it out by sliding a screwdriver as far behind it as possible. After you pop one out, you begin to realize that these lights will NOT fall out on their own going down the road.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2664.jpg

Here's the light taken apart (note that this one isn't a sealed beam, but uses a regular H3 bulb).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2665.jpg

Snip off the black ground wire going to the rivet on the inside, it doesn't provide a good ground and will eventually will fail causing the light to go out.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2666.jpg

Here's the new bulb wired and ready to be popped back into the housing. I used 14 gauge wire to connect to my pre-existing light harness which uses 12 gauge from a 40 amp relay. The black ground wire goes to the mounting bolt into the 'runner's frame
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2667.jpg

It even says "AIRCRAFT" on the back of the bulb
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2669.jpg

Mounted up with a simple 90 degree bracket to the bolt hole on top of the frame just inside of the body mounts
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2672.jpg

All finished
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2674.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_2675.jpg

from these you can see that the headlights don't even compare to the spotlights . . . in fact, I could hardly tell when the headlights were on except the headlights have a wider beam and filled in the sides a bit

low beam headlights
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_26801.jpg

spot lights only (ignore the poor aiming on the right side, I need to modify my mount a bit to get it up a bit)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_26811.jpg

low beams + spots
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_26821.jpg

high beams + spots
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cheap%20driving%20lights/100_26831.jpg

corax

11-17-2008, 01:17 PM

I made a junkyard run the other day, and for lack of anything better decided to snag a new pair of bucket seats. The 'runner already has buckets, but, being the American I am, I wanted something a bit sportier with more bling and adjustments.

Here are the old seats
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_2684.jpg

and the new seats, neither has any tears and are pretty mint for being nearly 20 years old. The passenger seat has the pretty standard recline & slide and also headrest height/tilt, but the driver side also has electric lateral and lumbar adjust along with seat bottom angle adjustments. The car I got them out of rhymes with 1st gen Cellica AllTrac Turbo (I felt so bad for that car . . . it was in good shape and I hated to tear it apart, but it looked like someone already took a ball-peen to the turbo)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_2687.jpg

In order for the seat to slide forward far enough for anyone to get in the back I had to match the rear seat mounts. The Cellica sliders are longer than the 4runner's, which meant I had to pull off the front mounts (make them semi-custom mounts) and also remove 2 bracket that were hitting the floor pan (just the bracket that held the spring which pulls the seat forward). I also removed the seat mounted belt buckle, preferring to use the factory belt buckle mounts on the body of the truck.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_2688.jpg

The seat itself sits just a hair lower, but that's OK to me. I took the seat back off and unbolted the seat bottom to make lining everything up much easier - it won't slide right unless the rails are parallel. If I decide later to raise it, the front mounts will get custom mounts (2 diagonal verticles and mount tabs bolted on) and the rear mounts will just need a spacer
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_2689.jpg

Here's how I did the front mounts - I basically removed the mount, flipped it 180 degrees and drilled a new hole in the verticle section (the hole was originally in the 45* angle part). When I drilled out the rivet and spot weld that held them on I was left with (2) 6mm holes on each side, so I just used these holes with 2 grade 8 bolts
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_2691.jpg

I reused the outside rear seat mount, but the inside rear mount didn't line up at all. I didn't really feel like welding a bracket on to use the original hole (not mention I would then have to worry about making the seat side-to-side level)so I drilled the floor and used a nice wide washer on the outside of the floorboard to prevent the nut from ever pulling through the sheet metal.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_2692.jpg

Both done. I didn't really have to worry so much about the driver side being able to slide all the way forward so install was a bit quicker. These do provide alot better lateral support and are very comfy, but I'm gonna hold off on my final impressions till I get some seat time on the driver side.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_2700.jpg
*edit* much better for distance driving and better support for the fast stuff

Here's the power lumbar and side wing adjust switch in its new home
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/seats/100_3341.jpg

corax

12-04-2008, 03:43 PM

time to make a stronger CB antenna mount. the old one worked fine, but after the fiberglass whip got bent over and shoved into the rear window to give enough clearance to drive into a parking garage (not me) it was too broken to fix. I did try removing the old mount and filling the backside with JB Weld, but the cracks would still open up whenever the antenna moved (with winter coming, I could just imagine water getting in there and breaking it up more)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cb%20mount/100_2727.jpg
this is what I came up with. it's 2" x 1/8" flatstock with a small piece of 90* angle for the actual mount. I snagged the antenna mounting stud and plastic insulator from an extra "trucker" style mirror mount that I had laying around. from the point where it mounts to the truck it has a zig in it for extra tailgate clearance, and all the corners have been rounded to prevent any scratches or snags from happening. I bent the 90* angle to a bit tighter of an angle to better follow the rear sheet metal and give an evenly spaced look
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cb%20mount/100_2730.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cb%20mount/100_2733.jpg
finished and mounted with (4) 6mm bolts & washers on the backside to distribute and minimize any bending force the factory sheet metal might get - you can also see where I ran the antenna feedline, a small notch in the sheet metal behind the taillight and some plastic trimming with my dremmel on the taillight housing did the job perfect
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cb%20mount/100_2736.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cb%20mount/100_2737.jpg
I filled the holes from the old mount with JB Weld and used some touch-up paint to make it look semi-pretty again
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cb%20mount/100_2738.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cb%20mount/100_2740.jpg

corax

12-27-2008, 02:25 PM

update on some minor projects I've been working on lately

Rear window switch to be able to lower or raise the window when I'm in the back. It's wired into the tailgate key switch wires, so the key doesn't have to be on
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_2762.jpg

Added a slight tint to the tail lights, but not on the reverse light part and not enough to make the local cops worry about it. VHT is self leveling, but I switched the spray nozel so it would come out in a spray and not a stream. I lightly sanded the lenses with 1000 grit, wiped them down with rubbing alcohol, taped off the clear lens and back side, hit it with the VHT, wiped it off and spread it even with a paper towel and clear coated it after it was dry.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_2748.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_2749.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_2764.jpg

My home made idler gusset, you can probably guess where I got the design idea from, but like usual I had to change it a bit. I also tapped the idler body (6mm x 1.0) and added a grease zerk on the front of it (the gusset doesn't travel far enough to hit the zerk)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_2760.jpg
note the wrap-around part does not hit the steering stop and limit the turning radius
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_2759.jpg
(just have to add a 1/4" u-bolt to snug it all down, though there is no side-to-side slop anyway)

corax

02-01-2009, 10:01 AM

time to upgrade the Master Cylinder in preparation for my T100 caliper swap - the bigger pistons on the T100 calipers need a slightly bigger MC bore. The '90s T100 1 tons have a 1-1/16" MC bore vs the popular 1" bore found in many mid 90's 4runners and LandCruisers - bigger isn't necessarily better when it comes to the MC bore. A bigger bore moves more fluid, but produces less hydraulic pressure with the same amount of force on the pedal. In this case, I wanted to match what was available on the T100.

here's my $50 ebay master cylinder, brand new - note the 1-1/16" cast on the side
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/mastercylinder.jpg
out with the old 7/8" bore MC
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_2807.jpg
in with the new (and the aluminum looks much prettier than rust :D)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_2808.jpg

it was a simple bolt on swap, no drama. The front brake line needed to be bent a bit to match up with the T100 MC port. I didn't bother to bench bleed it, prefering to do it on the vehicle with a rag under the lines. Initial driving impressions are good with pressure building and the pedal firm very near the top of it's travel, though when I get the T100 calipers on it should soften up a bit. I would not recommend this size MC with the stock 1st gen calipers as it could get tiring to drive with the extra firm pedal. On a 2nd gen with the "S12W" calipers though, it might be a nice upgrade that would give a better pedal feel.

I cannot personally vouch for this cross reference:

Brake Master Cylinder for the following 1 TON Models:
1994 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC
1994 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-2958 3.0L SOHC
1995 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1995 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1996 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1996 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1997 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1997 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1998 Toyota T100 Pickup : 4-2694 2.7L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS
1998 Toyota T100 Pickup : V6-3378 3.4L DOHC - Notes: w/o ABS

corax

02-21-2009, 04:56 AM

before
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_2831.jpg
rear suspension height (rim to wheel well)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_2833.jpg
the old and the Old Man Emu - the original spring pack was 3 mains + 1 overload - the OME pack is 4 mains + 2 overloads (main leaves are about the same thickness as the originals)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_2839.jpg
Energy Suspension bumpstops, Marlin U-Bolt flip (note the excess trimmed off the top of the u-bolts)- this pic was with the weight of the axle pulling on the springs, I need to get a longer rear brake hose yet (just a slight pull on the hose like this, but add the weight of tires though and it'll probably get pulled on too much) I'm also not sure how I like the bumpstop placement, I think it might get destroyed by the u-bolt nuts. I may end up welding a shallow platform on top of the u-bolt plate for the bumpstop to bolt to and let it contact the factory strike plate. I'm also not ecstatic about how the e-brake cable is being pulled on (maybe a transfer case e-brkae in the future?)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_2848.jpg
shock mount welded on, while doing the install I measured and mounted everything for 11.5" stroke Bilstein 5150's.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_2851.jpg
after
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_3031.jpg
new height - I guess my old springs were really sagging, the OME springs should have only given me 2" (+ my shackles from the old springs give another 1.25") - I got about 5.5" total
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_2852.jpg

Well, this is more height than I wanted, it looks downright goofy like this. I don't have the shocks on the back yet either, the dumpy Rancho's will bolt up to the mounts, but I'll have 0 down travel. Once I get the Bilsteins on, the back end will come up a bit more too (gas pressure). So I'm thinking I need to put some stock length shackles back in to drop the height a bit and hope the springs settle.

made a new set of shackles - 4" eye to eye out this "muscle car" shackle kit ($15)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_2995.jpg
took the bottom overload leaf out - it didn't look like it would do anything anyway, just acted like a spacer or 3/8" lift block - I left the top overload leaf in to help control axle wrap. You can't really tell it, but I also added an extra gusset to the lower shock mount to get more surface area on the axle tube (probably wraps just under 1/2 way around now)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_3002.jpg
moved the Energy Suspension bumpstop down to the bottom by welding a perch onto the u-bolt plate (left over 1/4" flat from shortening the shackles)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_3004.jpg
and lost about 2" . . . which means I gained 3.5" from the OME's
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_3010.jpg
This I can live with, a little bit of rake and it doesn't look nearly as goofy anymore
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_3014.jpg
11" travel 5150 Bilsteins with the "soft" valving
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_3216.jpg
installed and done :D
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_3220.jpg

corax

04-04-2009, 04:07 PM

Got my T-100 calipers on today. I already changed out the master cylinder, so I don't know how the brake pedal would feel with the bigger calipers and stock master cylinder. Here's the rundown:

Here are the original calipers, note the S12+8 casting mark in the second pic. Toyota uses standard calipers on several different models, the cast mark identifies which ones are identical (no difference in the cast mark to indicate left or right side though)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3555.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3554.jpg

Here's what happens if you try to use the T-100 (S13WB cast mark) calipers with the stock rotors.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3556.jpg
BTW, when I was getting parts I told the parts guy it was a '95 T-100 4wd.

So I got a pair of T-100 rotors to go with the new calipers and pads - the only thing that needs to change for the rotors is to push the bottom of the backing plate away from the rotors about 1/8" to keep it from rubbing - otherwise everything just bolts on
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3563.jpg

Here are the '88 4runner rotor specs:
# of Bolt Holes:6
Bolt Circle Diameter:5"
Diameter:11.375"
Height:2.535"
Maximum Lateral Runout:.004"
Thickness When New:.79"
Discard Thickness:.709"
Vented / Solid:Vented
Center Hole Diameter:3.942"

here are the T-100 rotor specs:
# of Bolt Holes:6
Bolt Circle Diameter:5"
Diameter:11.41"
Height:2.59"
Maximum Lateral Runout:.004"
Thickness When New:.985"
Discard Thickness:.905"
Vented / Solid:Vented
Center Hole Diameter:3.942"

So the only real difference is thickness and overall diameter - if you saw the "height" is also different, that's only because the rotor is thicker and the height needed to change to keep the rotor centered in the caliper.

The calipers are a simple bolt on affair, the only thing necessary is little bit of trimming to the backing plate
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3561.jpg

Finished product (kinda finished, I didn't have the rotors on yet in these pics)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3557.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3559.jpg

for some other caliper options look here (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=6351.msg64036)
Here's the thread (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=6175.0) where I did the master cylinder upgrade

*edit*
Got it rolling this afternoon and burnished the pads/rotors nicely on some back roads . . . it's an improvement, but I think I need to go after the rear brakes now. The pedal feel with the bigger calipers is better, before with the stock S12+8 calipers and the 1 1/16" MC the pedal was rock solid. It's just not stopping the way I want it to and I have my doubts about the rear LSPV (I did move the rod up when I did my lift). I may have to spend $30 on a manual proportioning valve and ditch the LSPV in the near future - here's why: I got back from my hell ride breaking in the new pads, the fronts were definately toasty with some very slight discoloration on the fringes of the rotor (i.e. not in the swept area of the rotor) and the rear drums were only luke-warm, my coffee from this morning was still hotter than the rear drums. I know the rear drums don't get smokin' hot, but they should have been a bit warmer than that.

corax

05-03-2009, 02:43 PM

Wilwood manual brake proportioning valve - the shiny fittings are SAE standard for 3/16" brake line, the only metric (Toyota) fittings are the rusted ones that I re-used on the master cylinder, the Toyota fittings worked perfectly with the 3/16" line and mixing them on the line made it easy to adapt
(note: all brake lines where bent with a tool, brake line doesn't bend very nicely by hand - it has a tendency to kink)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3882.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3881.jpg

Took the LSPV off. The line that needs to get bent down to the flexible brake line is the one at the top of the LSPV - there is an -> next to the brake line on the LSPV. The line with an "F" next to it ties into the front brake line and can just be bent back or cut off . . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3884.jpg

. . . . once you plug the front "T" I just took a fiting and put a big puddle of weld in the middle of it to make my own plug.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Brake%20upgrade/100_3885.jpg

Speedway Motors has manual valves for $33 here (http://"http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Proportioning-Valves,23498.html"). Summit Racing or Jegs also carries them and you can probably find them in any respectable hotrod or racing equipment store. Just look for the knob style like I have in the link - they're all the same and brand name doesn't matter much with a simple part like this.

You might be able to get a plug, but I don't know where. I think the plug threads are 10mm - 1.0. Or you can forget about messing with the "T" and try to find a 90 degree brake line adapter from the same location on another toyota truck, like the one on the left in the pic below
http://www.wabfab.org/projects/1985/brakes/rdc/reardisc10.jpg

Another option to get rid of the front "T" if you can flare a brake line:
- cut the original Toyota ends off at the "T"
- slide new 3/16" SAE sized nuts over the bare ends
- flare the line and use a male-male adapter like I had to do in on vertical part next to the brake booster to adapt the proportioning valve to the stock lines (but do this at the "T" in the pass. wheel well)

corax

05-15-2009, 09:36 PM

Since I got my 1" body lift years ago I've been embarassed by the gap between the gas tank and the body. Actually no, but I was bored today so I raised the tank 1" to match the body lift. Originally I had 17" from the ground to the bottom of the tank skid plate and the tank hung ~4.5" below the frame rails. So I dropped the tank and spent way too long cutting off the front mount. This is what it looked like originally
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_3768.jpg
then after much effort, mostly with my Dremel because that was the only thing I had that could get in there to cut the metal next to the welds - it is of course welded to the top sides and bottom (before I painted it)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_3145.jpg
the rear mount was much easier. I cut it on an angle to get more weld between the 2 halves. I also used a 90* square to mark the 1" I was cutting out to make sure I didn't change the mounting angle
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_3147.jpg
I still need to cut and remount the tank skid plate, but here's where the tank is now
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_3153.jpg
giving me a bit more ground clearance (should be 18" by the time I get the skid back on)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_3151.jpg

corax

07-05-2009, 04:00 PM

So I decided to bomb through some water at way too fast speeds and got about an inch of water covering the spark plugs. On the 7mge, the spark plugs sit between the two valve covers with no where for water to go so I developed a massive misfire (took ~10 minutes for the water to leak past the plug wires though). Massive misfire dumped gas into the exhaust and cat, cat got hot. Actually the entire exhaust system was glowing bright orange from the cat back (including the entire muffler).

this crappy cell phone pic was taken ~ 5 minutes after I shut the engine off :yikes: I'm lucky the cat didn't completely melt down and clog the exaust
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/05-10-09_2012.jpg

Since I can't make a drain for the "valley" and the original cover worked just as well and not having anything, I thought I'd seal off the engine bay from the wheel wells a bit better.

I started with an old racing slick my roommate had from his racecar and cut the sidewalls off with a utility knife (pattern already cut out in this pic)- I also thought about using a truck tire innertube, but the one I found had too much "memory" in the rubber and wanted to curl up too bad to use + the rubber is too thin and flexible
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/fenderliner3.jpg

just over 3/16" of nylon belted high speed soft compound rubber (should suit my driving style)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/fenderliner2.jpg

since I have a 1" body lift I left the original fender rubber in place and marked the distance from each edge I wanted to extend the new rubber guard. I took off the original, traced it to the slick, extended the edges where I wanted to and cut it out with a utility knife. I also used the original to mark and punch the hole ("hammer" type hole punch set from HF for <$10)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/fenderliner1.jpg

A few weeks ago I got a "Riv Nut" set from HF also. I used the 10-24 thread Riv Nuts in the original holes in the inner fender, they fit perfect and let me use stainless machine screws w/ fender washers to attach the rubber guard - I plan on tucking the the front in on top of the frame rail in front of the idler arm and using an empty bolt hole to secure it
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/fenderliner4.jpg

corax

07-18-2009, 07:03 AM

Finally got around to REALLY upgrading the cooling system. A few months back I found a double row, dual pass Ron Davis radiator at a flea market for $25 (too good of a deal to pass up). Though I wasn't sure if I could use it, a few weeks of staring at it got me going on how to fit it into an already tight engine bay.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4014.jpg
(2 of the fins were previously repaired, but they look solid)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4015.jpg

Here's how it works. A dual-pass horizontal-flow radiator moves coolant across the top half of the radiator on the first pass, then directs the coolant across the lower portion of the radiator face for a second pass. One reason this works is because the velocity of the coolant roughly doubles when the coolant is forced to travel across half as many tubes per pass. This creates turbulence in the tubes, exposing more coolant to the radiator tube walls and improving heat transfer. It also provides a bit of a restriction to coolant flow, reducing the overall flow rate of the cooling system and allowing the coolant to spend more time in the radiator. I think one of my problems with the single core Griffin was that it flowed too fast with this engine - the coolant didn't have enough time to really cool as it passed through the radiator (but that's just speculation).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/dualpassdia.jpg

I enlarged the radiator opening a bit so I could move the radiator as far forward as possible.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4229.jpg
Here it is all mocked up in its final position. I already had the lower brackets made (just a "J-hook" to cradle the bottom of the radiator), so I just needed to bend and fit the brackets to their final position.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4230.jpg

The top hose/inlet is a simple 1.5" neck that the hose slides on to. The lower hose/outlet though is a 3/4" NPT bung . . . so I got a copper 3/4" NPT fitting, trimmed the overall length down and soldered a "street elbow" on to it. I also tapped the bung a bit deeper so that the copper fitting would thread all the way in (no threads showing). The outlet on my fitting is now 1.25" - the stock lower radiator hose is 1.375" - so there sohould be no real restriction that I need to worry about.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4233.jpg
top view of it mounted with the plumbing all connected - I found a formed hose that I could cut/splice onto the stock lower radiator hose and used a universal flex hose for the top
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4303.jpg
Home Depot pipe hanger to hold the long lower radiator hose away from anything it might rub against
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4302.jpg

** started to fill the radiator with water to flush everything out of it and noticed water puring out of the bottom/front core tube . . . I don't know how I didn't see it split and spread 1/8" open. I tried to silver solder it but couldn't get it to stick, so I filled it with as much JB weld as I could push in and then squeezed the core closed. I pressure tested it to 20psi and it's held, so I'll consider this a permanent repair.

Previously I was using a 14" fan on my single core Griffin radiator. I could fit one 12" or 2 9" fans with the new setup (not enough room between the radiator and the front cross member for the 14"). I did some math on how much coverage the fans would give on the radiator:
1x14" fan = 153 sq.in.
1x12" fan = 113 sq.in.
2x9" fans = 127 sq.in
So 2x9" fans it is then - combined they pull 22 amps when they first start spinning, but settle down to 10 amps at full speed. Even though I'm stepping down in fan size I should be golden since the overall cooling capacity is increasing (won't find out till I have to pull the trailer again).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4340.jpg

corax

07-25-2009, 01:31 PM

I've been lugging around a NWMP fuel tank for the last 14 months and I finally got tired of moving it around to different locations, so I decided to finally install it today. It's supposed to be a gravity feed system with a hose running into a fitting where the main tank drain plug is on the bottom. Problem with this is I don't like the idea of having something hang even lower off the main tank, especially a brass fitting that could drain all my fuel if it gets hit hard enough.

So I thought of putting a shut valve on it (elec or manual) and have the aux tank drain into the filler neck vent tube for the main tank, but the filler neck is too high and I don't want to put a hole lower than that in the side of the main tank because I'm afraid it'll leak.

My final option is an electric fuel pump, but fuel pumps can get damaged when they run dry from heat build up and I would have no way of knowing when to shut off the extra pump. I can't find anything saying they are safe for short periods of dry running and likewise nothing about how they work except that they do not use a diaphragm.

This is what I came up with, though it may be a bit over engineered it should save the pump from running dry, and if the rest of the system wiring fails a jumper wire across the load side of the relay will still turn on the fuel pump (actually changed it a bit from the first idea, now I have the switches working on the ground side with the relay at the passenger side rear of the engine bay)

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/auxtanktransfer-rev.jpg

Red: fuel lines
Dk Blue: wiring
Parts: low pressure nitrous fuel safety switch (adjustable 2-5psi), fuel pump, momentary & toggle switches, relay, slight fuel line restriction (small crimp in steel fuel line to main tank)

- the toggle switch turns on the system, but the relay won't turn on the fuel pump until there is ~3psi at the low pressure switch
- press the momentary switch to bypass the pressure switch and turn on the relay and fuel pump
- pressure builds behind the restriction and makes the pressure switch close, the momentary switch can be let go now as the relay will stay on
- when the aux tank runs dry the pressure switch opens deactivating the relay and fuel pump

if I really want to get fancy, I was thinking I could run a wire from the + side of the fuel pump back up to the switch panel through an LED and on to ground as a "fuel pump on" indicator light

Installing the tank is easy, so I'll leave out the bits about drilling holes and bolting it up. It's the details that'll make it trouble free in the long run . . . like an exhaust heat shield so the gas doesn't get too hot (excessive vapor/boiling)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4346.jpg

view from the wheel well - before I fill it for the first time I'd like to replace the rubber hose with steel braided to help deter thieves from thinking it would be easy to cut the rubber hose and steal my gas - I was also thinking a steel hard line would work, but I'd have to find another fitting first
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4350.jpg

transfer pump (universal, for a carb'd car) - I used 1/4 riv-nuts to attach it to the frame rail (still need to put a fuel filter inline to pretect the pump)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4351.jpg

a bit of protection to keep the hoses from chaffing against the frame rail, it also keeps them tied together nicely so they don't move around much
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4352.jpg

a few months ago I had to repair the main tank fuel pump bracket because the metal line on the outside finally rusted through, while I was at it I added an extra line to dump the fuel from the aux tank into the main tank, I had actually extended that fitting down to the bottom of the tank in the hopes that it would work like a siphon once fuel starts flowing (in case the pump fails/doesn't work out I could still use the aux tank w/ pump removed)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4353.jpg

I tossed my spare tire back under there and noticed that the tank didn't affect my departure angle at all, though if I drop off an obstacle the spare will definately take the hit. If I know I'm hitting any rough trails I'll just take the spare off and toss it in the back. I am planning on making some kind of spare carrier for the rear bumper - I always liked the idea of being able to carry 2 spare tires for longer trips.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4355.jpg
rear view
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4356.jpg
Switches installed - turn the toggle on, press the momentary switch till there's enough pressure to trigger the pressure switch, let go of the momentary and the pump runs till the toggle is switched off or the pressure in the line drops (aux tank empty) - the blue LED is wired to the transfer pump V+ wire so it is on any time the pump is running
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/aux%20tank/100_4374.jpg

With the extra fuel on board I should be able to get a range just shy of 600 miles normal driving
(17 gal factory tank + 14 gal aux tank) x 19mpg = 589 miles

corax

09-13-2009, 06:19 AM

With the aux fuel tank I lost a bit of ground clearance in the rear, so time to relocate the spare. I also like the idea of being able to carry 2 spares on longer road trips, this will let me do that. Wet weather stopped me from working on the property in Wild and Wonderful (WV), so a perfect opportunity to change up the rear bumper a bit and get it ready for a spare tire carrier.

this was what I had when I started
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/100_4683.jpg
trim the wings off . . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/100_4684.jpg
1/4" plate steel upright + piece the wings back together
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/100_4685.jpg
all done
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/100_4699.jpg
here's the hinge brackets for the spare tire carrier - I got the idea of having the spare swing up and to the side from Scotty at Addicted Offroad
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/100_4696.jpg
Here's the delrin hinge I plan on using, now I just need to get some steel to make the arm . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/100_4701.jpg

corax

10-12-2009, 04:20 PM

new shoes - 33x10.5x15 BFG KM2's on 8" wide black steelies with 4.5" backspacing + took off the dumpy looking JCWhitney universal rubber flares since the tires are inside the wheel wells again. I still don't have any lift on the front and don't plan on any, I do have a 1" body lift - I might have to tap the body seam at the rear of the front wheel wells a bit, but it doesn't have to get hammered flat. The rears fit fine after I bent the mudflap brackets a bit to angle them rearward.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5024.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5023.jpg

initial driving impressions on road:
- I can break the rear loose exiting a tight corner once again in 1st or 2nd (2nd gear only does it if I'm in the power band).
- definately a bit "looser" mid-turn through the twisties than my well worn 32x11.5 BFG A/T's w/ 3.5" backspacing, but I kinda expected that. I'm hoping they'll stick just a tad better once the new tire smell is gone and they get scuffed in
- I'm pleasantly surprised with the level of road noise - I can only hear them if I'm off the throttle, and even then it's minimal

corax

11-22-2009, 09:33 AM

I don't want to lift the front of my 'runner any more than it already is, but last trip out I found that I kept bashing the front crossmember and it got dented up fairly well.. I consider skid plates to be "consumables" when offroad, so I'm not worried that the front skid also got a bit thrashed.
So this is the shape of my reinforcement. You can see the score lines where I was going to bent it to wrap around and under
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5267.jpg
I cut the top off so it would conform better to the front crossmember
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5268.jpg
all done :D 1/4" steel to help guard my front crossmember
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5270.jpg
the next part of this will be a skid extending from the front crossmember to the one I made tying the lower-rear control arms together. This way, any hits I take to the front will be spread out a bit - I try not to slam around that hard anyway

corax

11-28-2009, 08:23 AM

Part of my engine swap had me remove the steering stabilizer since it would interfere with the oil pan. I recently picked one up at a junkyard in the hopes that it'll cure a slight vibration/wobble that I have when turning at higher speeds. A few days thinking about it and I figured out what I needed to do.

Here's my bracket for the frame side attachment using 2 driver side front cross member bolts
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/100_5320.jpg
I borrowed this idea from the universal fit steering stabilizers - 1" exhuast clamps from NAPA work perfect with a piece of 1/8" flat stock between them
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/100_5323.jpg
ready for install - this stabilizer doesn't have any brand names on it, but I'm pretty sure it's not OEM. I liked how wide the body of it is (compared to the thin OEM ones), so I plucked it out of a mid 90's Limited 4runner
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/100_5322.jpg
installed and ready for testing on some high speed fireroads - the stock bolts were long enough once I ditched the washers that were on them
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/100_5326.jpg

corax

01-31-2010, 10:45 AM

Finally warm enough to get some minor work done - pair of used 25mm SwayAWay Torsions, painted blue because some of the red had been sand blasted off (from AZ) and blue was the only spray paint I had nearby

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_5616.jpg

the guy I bought them from had left the adjuster arms on, but the adjuster arms on my '88 were a bit narrower so they wouldn't work. I fought getting the adjuster arms off for 1.5 hrs, the ones on my OEM torsions slid right off - good lesson on why the factory used little dust boots to seal the splines up (I added a healthy dose of grease to make sure future disassembly goes smoothly)

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/suspension/100_5613.jpg

also removed the driver rear grab handle and mounted my 3D Maglight there
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5125.jpg

corax

02-21-2010, 05:50 PM

I found these overpriced LED strips from Autozone and decided to upgrade the interior lighting in the rear since the “Deck Light” is all but useless. These cost $15, but 1/2 the price is probably due to the “TRY ME” switch and battery on the package. The same type LED strip lights can be found online for about $12/foot and can be cut into 4” sections – then it’s just a matter of soldering 2 wires onto each separate section. Measured current draw on both is 20-30mA and best of all it’s an easy connection as these run straight off 12V (no need for a LED regulator).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5670.jpg
Mounted them in the rear corners & drilled a 1/8” hole for the wires to pass through. These have 3M tape already on them, so just clean the shell and stick ‘em on (if you’ve never used 3M tape before, make sure the lights are where you want them because they won’t move once the tape makes contact).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5676.jpg
The upper rear section of the shell is hollow and connects to the “d” pillar, but I still had to use a stiff piece of wire to run my LED wires into the pillar. Here’s the wiring at the base of the “d” pillar – I used a spare 2 pin Toyota connector that I had lying around to connect the shell to the body.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5674.jpg
All that’s left is to run two wires straight to the Deck Light itself – connect the LED wires to the wires going to the bulb and you’re done. I tried taking some night-time photos, but anyone who’s tried that before knows that night pics don’t work very well. Suffice it to say that now there’s plenty of light in the back, but not so bright as to be blinding (I could comfortably read a book by this light, even up by the front seats).

Here's 4crawler’s Deck Light Mod (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#DeckLightMod) for some more info

corax

04-02-2010, 04:37 PM

Got my E-Locker in today :D

I prepped for awhile before the actual install.
made a tap and drill jig so everything is done on a 90* angle
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/tapanddrilljigs.jpg

made an actuator guard
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4639.jpg

Made a "cut-out" template
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/difftemplate.jpg

and finally got my 4.88 gears set up by a semi-local Toyota tech Mark / 86 Toy (on TTORA) (http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/member.php?u=4089) - price was right and I like the pattern, professional all the way. Here's the drive side (coast and pinion also dead on, only .001" variance on ring gear backlash measures at 4 spots)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/_00_6027.jpg

I'm not going into detail as this has been done many times before - except I did mine without removing the axle (because I'm a masochist like that)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/Diffbeginwork.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/Diffinstall1.jpg

forgot to get the MIG from my roomie before he left, so flux core to the rescue
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/diffinstall2.jpg

here's the tap jig in action - I used a cutting wheel for the piece that needs to be cut out, less sparks that way
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/tapanddrilljigsinuse.jpg

the hardest part of the install was drilling the holes, but got everything together in a reasonable amount of time. I'll wire it at some point in the near future
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/diffinstall4.jpg

I just pushed all my mess into the garage for tonight, I'll clean it up tomorrow.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/mymess.jpg

I took the 'runner for a gentle 15 minute drive around town to start the gear break-in process, plenty of gentle accel and long downhill coasting. I'll repeat a few more times this weekend and probably change the diff fluid in 100 miles (cheap gear oil) and again at 500 (synthetic) just to be on the safe side

corax

05-02-2010, 12:03 PM

For the wiring part, I decided to keep it relativel simple, I used this wiring from http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/ - easy to wire, 2 relays, uses a momentary switch that gets pushed in one direction to lock & the other to unlock. Instead of a momentary on-off-on toggle, I picked up a regular single pole double throw toggle - it doesn't have a middle "off" position, will let me use a toggle guard, and unless I'm missing something in the diagram, should work just as well as the momentary (once the limit switch goes open, the relay turns off and everything stops anyway)

soldered, assembled and bench tested with a test light instead of the locker actuator as load - just enough wire to pull both relay boards out of the box
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_6162.jpg

ready to go - just have to JBWeld the connector to the box once I'm sure there are no glitches - I used my trusty dremel to scribe the connector pin-out onto the lid for future reference
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_6164.jpg

the rear harness mounted up nicely using pre-existing holes in the tank bracket
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/06diffharness.jpg

I used the step drill to make a huge hole for the e-locker connector to go through and used a spare grommet I had to seal it all up
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/07bodygrommet.jpg

wiring run and the controller just about ready to be mounted
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/08controlconnector.jpg

The only problem I ran into is that the rear diff locked but now it won't unlock electrically - the voltage is switching the way it's supposed to, so I'm thinking the actuator is either jammed or stuck on a "dead spot"

*edit* took the actuator off and found out the 3 "fingers" for the lock and unlock limit switches weren't making contact well enough, bent them out a bit and everything works perfect :D

corax

05-02-2010, 12:25 PM

I hate rust. About 4 years ago, before moving to AZ and So Cal, I fixed both wheel wells - grind, primer, bondo, primer, paint. This is just from this recent winter:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/RRbefore.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/LRbefore.jpg

So I fixed some of that again, all rust spots were wire wheeled and primered before having some bondo thrown in. There are more big holes than I remember under that paint - I really just need to bite the bullet and get Toyota Fiberglass fenders, but shipping from the far side of Canada costs as much as the fenders themselves :(.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/RRafter.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/LRafter.jpg

also got started on another project - time for better filtration. During a recent junkyard safari, I figured out a Subaru Forester airbox would work with a bit of tweaking.
here's the adapter I used so I can mount the VAFM to it (cut up a bit and redrilled)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_5458.jpg
all adapted, JBWelded and ready to go
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_5462.jpg

ditched the cheese cone filter and installed and plumbed up the Subie box - I used 2 nutserts going into the stock battery tray to hold the bottom of the filter box in place
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_6397.jpg

now, what to do with the 3" diameter hole facing the inner fender . . . .

corax

06-03-2010, 03:29 PM

Time to work on the Comms a bit. I finally got around to installing the NMO mount on my roof for my 2M Ham 1/4 wave whip antenna. Here it is with the NMO cover on it
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_6615.jpg

and the 1/4 wave 2M antenna, just small enough that I don't think it'll be bothered by low branches. Now I just need to find a center console to stuff the 2M Yaesu into.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_6612.jpg

Last winter during one of the snow storms I figured out that my CB squelch was messed up - it'd only open up if I pressed on the dial. I tried taking it apart, but everything is solid state and resistant to component replacement. So I got rid of the 10M/import CB and picked up a slightly used Cobra 18ST WX. There are no power mods for these radios, but they do have WeatherBand and are one of the only ones with a forward facing speaker. I started by modding the radio bracket with a fender washer to mount the CB (I hate welding sheet)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/CBbracket.jpg

simple enough install
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/CBinstall.jpg

corax

06-19-2010, 01:35 PM

Last year I got a front diff with 4.88 gears courtesy of cash-for-clunkers. I finally got around to swapping the the LSD over to the new (to me) 4.88 gears so now I have matching gears and can use 4wd again (just in time for EC4RJ, if I could actually go)

When I got the 4.88 front diff, I took the front lower crossmember that was attached and modded it up a bit with 1/4" plate so it won't get dented anymore (overkill - I should've used 1/8" but I literally have over 1/4 ton of 1/4" plate laying around)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_5270.jpg

(before I put the front skid back on)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/frontcrossmember.jpg

corax

08-01-2010, 11:51 AM

finished up one minor project today that started with a new airbox

gettting ready for the first cut
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_7098.jpg

Subaru Forester airbox bottom back in again. the airbox has a 3" opening with a rubber lip seal from factory and that is what makes the seal
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_7099.jpg

I used 3" thin wall PVC septic pipe & learned that it doesn't heat bend very well without kinking so I ended up using premade bends - here's the front
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_7102.jpg

the rear, note the inlet is angled up a bit
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_7104.jpg

I did heat bend the inlet to help deflect any water from the cowl a bit better
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_7103.jpg

almost done
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_7108.jpg

add fender and call it a day - everything fit perfect with my fiberglass fenders, not sure if 3" would work with stock fenders but it might
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Air%20filter/100_7112.jpg

corax

08-04-2010, 09:35 AM

I found my windshield is leaking from the passenger side lower corner. I knew it was leaking because there was a puddle on the pass. floor for the last few months whenever it rained, but I didn't know from where until the truck didn't start. Quick diag found it didn't have spark and I followed it back to the ECM, took the ECM apart and found a couple drops of water in it (windshield dripped right on it, water got in one of the empty mounting holes). That was an easy fix as earlier electronics are pretty robust - I took both sides off the ECM case, doused the internals with rubbing alcohol, swished it around a bit and after using a hair drier on it the engine started right up.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_7109.jpg

Since I can't fix the windshield right away, I sealed up the ECM a bit better. Every mounting hole and the side seams got taped. This might also help with quick dunks since the it's the top and sides that got sealed and the connectors point downwards - push an empty glass upside down into water, if the air can't go anywhere the water won't rise . . .

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_7111.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_7110.jpg

------------------------------------------

yeah, yeah, no worries, I already went through the "ricer" phase and realize that there is absolutely no reason to put a spoiler on the back of a 1st gen. Not like it's gonna improve my handling at 100mph. What it does do is keep the exhaust from coming in the partially open rear window at highway speeds - I was hoping for better than that, but I'll settle for a bit of bling and minor improvements (it'll help in a few months when I swap coasts again ;)). There's not much improvement with the window all the way open, but there is under 50mph with it cracked 3"-4". I couldn't smell any exhaust coming from the back over 50mph.

Here's what I started with - $40 ebay 2nd gen JDM rear spoiler with peeling clear coat
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/rear%20spoiler%20-%20deflector/35778_4.jpg

I sanded a bit, but not too much - we don't need it looking too good - primered and painted it what I hoped would match the shell. Measured, marked, re-measured and drilled 4 mounting holes. Since the shell is double wall I continued the drill straight through to the interior and enlarged the inside holes so I could get the nuts onto the spoiler studs (the nuts are about 1" long and work well).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/rear%20spoiler%20-%20deflector/100_7139.jpg

the rear mounts don't match the angle of a 1st gen exactly, so I'll probably use some fuel tank epoxy to fill in the gap (the type of epoxy that gets "kneaded" into a putty not mixed with a toothpick)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/rear%20spoiler%20-%20deflector/100_7140.jpg

finished job, though I may yet take the heat gun to it and make it fit the shell shape a bit better in the future
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/rear%20spoiler%20-%20deflector/100_7141.jpg

here you can see the scoops that grab some of the overhead air and directs it into the back window (the orange thing in the left scoop is the connector for the 3rd brake light which I haven't wired yet)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/rear%20spoiler%20-%20deflector/100_7143.jpg

(gratuitous poser pic after conquering the back yard grass)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/rear%20spoiler%20-%20deflector/100_7144.jpg

corax

08-28-2010, 11:46 AM

since the front lower crossmember has been beefed up it's time for a front belly skid. It's a bit thicker than I would have liked, but the 1/4" metal plate was free. Because it only bridges a small span I'm not too worried about it doing any damage to the truck if I take a hard hit to it (a skid should bend before it affects the parts it's bolted to). The rectangle section was cut out to give the front diff drain a bit of space otherwise it would be completely flat.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_7453.jpg

The rear of my skid bolted to the lower brace I made awhile back - note the angled piece which should help me from getting hung up in reverse (this was the cut out piece from between the front legs)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_7446.jpg
Another plus is that now all 4 control arm horns are solidly tied together so force to one is spread out to the others.

BTW, if you see this in your engine, a head gasket retorque probably won't help much (I found that out today)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/uhoh.jpg
I'm hoping it was just something that was brewing since the last time I towed with the small radiator . . . project for next weekend

corax

10-17-2010, 08:44 AM

update on some minor projects. I'm considering the rear storage box (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=9266.0) finished for now - if I decide to later, I might add a hinged sleeping platform to the front of it.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/sleeping%20platform/18viewwtailgateopen.jpg

I made a junkyard run this weekend and picked up 2 additional crossbars for the roof rack. I pilfered these from an Isuzu Rodeo, though Jeep Cherokee cross bars mount on the same style rail (the Jeep rails are much longer but could be cut to length, the cross bars are easy to cut to width). I like this design since the weight is spread out over a greater distance on the fiberglass cap - I wouldn't want to hard mount a basket with legs since it would localize the weight to a few small areas. The eventual plan is to run several 1" wide x 1/8" thick aluminum strips front to back and bolted to each cross bar to make, essentially, a roof basket without the sides or resultant mpg drop.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_7760.jpg

I also picked up a new coolant reservoir from an 80's something BMW 3 series. It's about the same size as the cheapy universal reservoir I had but mounts much nicer. In the BMW this reservoir was under pressure when in use and had a 3/4" i.d. nipple on the bottom for a hose as well as a smaller hose running to the top of the radiator for an air purge, the cap on the reservoir works the same as a radiator cap and only vents at a certain pressure. I JBWelded some brass in the lower nipple for the small hose to the radiator filler neck and used the original radiator hose nipple for the overflow (so it doesn't build any pressure). I also had to make a new coil mount, which worked out well since this coil is supposed to be mounted vertically anyway (was on a 45 degree before).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_7767.jpg

corax

11-10-2010, 01:50 PM

I've always wanted cup holders in the 'runner, it's the one thing that's bugged me about the 1st gens. It bugs my wife too, and since she'll be the one driving it 2300 miles I thought I'd remedy that before we left. Materials needed for the cup holder: 4" length of 3" diameter drain pipe, a 3" drain pipe coupler, a 3" drain pipe end cap and 2 carriage bolts to attach it. For the mount I just bent up some 1.25" wide flat stock that I had laying around and bolted it to the seat track

the cup holder itself it pretty simple - slide the end cap and coupler over the piece of drain pipe. I ended up adding a rib to the metal arm to stiffen it up and reduce vibration while driving
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_3567.jpg

in 4th gear - it only gets in the way going into reverse and I can still get to the rear window switch underneath it
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_3568.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_3562.jpg

corax

12-18-2010, 10:51 AM

I like driving fast on dirt roads. The occasional gasp from my wife when I kick the rear end loose is like music to my ears. But with the fiberglass fenders (and no fender liner) I get tired of hearing all the rocks dinging off my doors and rocker panels (this old steel doesn't need help with chips and rust). Since I started winter driving this truck again, I also got tired pretty quickly of slush freezing my door seals. So after 5 years of fiberglass fenders it was time to finally make some front mudflaps that extend into the wheel well to protect the door seals and rockers.

After I made a pattern with some cardboard, I picked up a single huge $15 mudflap from a truck stop. This thing nearly extended from one side in the cargo area to the other and is big enough for both guards with plenty to spare.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/front%20mudflaps/01truckmudflap.jpg

I traced out the pattern and made sure it fit properly. Then I flipped the pattern and repeated for the other side, keeping the thicker edge towards the outside. Note how it will extend pretty far up into the wheel well to protect the door from anything coming off the tires.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/front%20mudflaps/02patterntraced.jpg

There's a flat surface in the fender well, that if you laid a straight edge on, lines up nicely with the edge of the fender (so without bending, the mudflap will "snug up" to the fender edge). I traced this area out as well as where I wanted the bottom 2 bolts attached, and used my trusty Harbor Freight hole punch to make some screw holes.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/front%20mudflaps/03cutandholepunched.jpg

Then I pushed the mudflap into place and traced the holes to be drilled for my NutSerts ($15 tool from HF). Here are the nutserts installed after drilling the appropriate sized holes. I painted the edges before install and put a tiny dab of black RTV to seal things up before expanding the nutsert. These install like a pop-rivet, but allow me to use machine screws to bolt the mudflaps in place.
*NOTE* if you use nutserts be sure the nutsert fits snugly into the hole before expanding it, don't drill the hole bigger than you have to
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/front%20mudflaps/04nutsertsinstalled.jpg
another view - in this one you can barely see the inner bottom nutsert on the other side of the body seam, this was a factory hole and fit a 1/4" nutsert perfectly
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/front%20mudflaps/05nutsertsinstalled.jpg

a few stainless steel machine screws later and I'm done. With any luck, no more frozen doors and cleaner rocker panels are in my future. I still have to put a small screw eye in the bottom to pull it back and away from the tire a bit (think rally-style), but that's for another day.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/front%20mudflaps/06alldone.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/front%20mudflaps/07alldone.jpg

corax

02-22-2011, 09:04 AM

I finally got tired or putting grease on the front steering stops every other month and picked up a set of these steering stop caps (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-95-TOYOTA-Pickup-4-Runner-T100-Steering-Stops-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aToyotaQQhashZitem33 641c3bb0QQitemZ220722903984QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories) off of ebay.
Total was ~$25 with shipping, but now I can forget about ever having to worry about that damn noise from the front with the wheel at full lock.

This is what I got a few days after placing my order:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/steeringstops1.jpghttp://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/steeringstops2.jpg

It even had instructions on the inside of the flap
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/steeringstops3.jpg

install took ~5 minutes with a few gentle taps of a hammer, these are NOT going to come off on their own
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/steering/steeringstops4.jpg

*note* the kit says it's for '89-95, but all IFS 4WD Toyotas from '86-'95 should be able to use these, mine is an '88

If you own a 1989 through 1995 Toyota 4x4 pickup (...and maybe even a 2-wheel drive, please check picture above to confirm you have the same style of suspension) or ‘89-95 Toyota 4Runner, or any model of T-100 pickup, you probably have heard the metal on metal creeking noise when you have turned the wheel all the way to one side to the other. This is probably because the cheap plastic bushings on the steering stops are weak flimsy plastic and have worn or broken off and now you have metal on metal rubbing (the metal on metal grinding sound is god-awful).... So I bought four stock new ones from the Toyota dealership (at the time they were ~$4 each for a total of $16... Now they are $7.64 each at the Pueblo Dealership) only to have them break off/wear through within less than a month! So I decided to make my own…I have had a set on my pickup for about 3-4 years now and no more creaking!

To install:

1) I recommend that you grind down or smooth out any rough edges on the curved metal surface (car side) that the steering stop bolt (wheel side) comes in contact with (this will help prolong the life of any plastic steering stop). If it is smooth, don't worry about this step. Remove any or all of the old plastic bushing on the steering stop bolt.

2) Secondly, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and install the stop on the Front-Left and Rear-Right bolt. Use more medium hammer strokes rather than fewer heavy strokes. The stops have a recessed area (unlike OEM parts) to lock the stop in place. Then turn the wheel all the way to the right and install the stop on the Front-Right and Rear-Left bolt

NOTE: Because these stops are slightly larger than stock they might increase the turning radius slightly... but not too much. OEM is about 1/16" thick, these are about 1/4" thick. Compare this to the gap distance between the stop and metal plate...it is negligiable.

Also NOTE: If you do happen to wear through the stop, simply take some pliers and rotate the stop to a new, non-worn area, on all four bolts.

corax

03-21-2011, 06:05 PM

Awhile ago I did the 4crawler Deck Light mod (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#DeckLightMod) so that the rear cargo lights can be used without the parking lights being on. I also previously used 2 single sections of flexible LED ribbon to light up the cargo area as the original light which never was very useful.

So now I wanted to consolidate the controls and add a rear "patio" light to illuminate the area immediately behind the 4runner. I didn't want a huge bright light since I like to stay as dim and low key as possible while camping, and a dimmer light won't kill my night vision as much. Besides, if I want to light up a big area I can just turn on the reverse lights. I also wanted the switches up higher, out of sight and easy to find in the dark so I don't have to fumble around as much to find them if I'm sleeping in the back.

Here's one of the Deck Lights that I installed awhile ago
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/decklight01.jpg

I was using the factory deck light switch in the rear for awhile, but things tend to get piled up and block its access. This is how I'm going to wire it using a SPDT switch
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/Decklight02.jpg

I build a switch panel using some spare aluminum sheet that I had laying around. After measuring and drilling the panel I traced it onto the rear fiberglass shell so I knew what I had to cut. I made sure there was a decent size lip for the panel to sit against.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/switchpanel02.jpg

The panel with switches installed - the switch guards are just $.75 double nutted J-hooks that I found at some big box home improvement store.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/switchpanel01.jpg

I fished all the wiring I needed up through the "D" pillar along with 3 extra 14 gauge wires for future use. Since I don't need the illumination for the PW switch, the connector had 2 extra spots in it that I was able to use for the deck lights. Every wire is running through a connector so the shell can be taken off later without having to figure how to hook up a bunch of single unmarked wires. Here's the PW connector before I connected the wires:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/switchpanel03.jpg

The toggle switches I got use a screw through an eyelet on the end of the wire so nothing should ever come disconnected. I ran power for the patio light from the "common" pole of the SPDT switch through another toggle - the patio light can never be on just by itself, the deck lights have to be on. Here you can see the cheap riced out LED driving light that I decided to use, it should light up the tailgate area perfectly and is mounted up in the rear spoiler.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/reararealight01.jpg

switch panel installed
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/switchpanel04.jpg
and the layout
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/Deck%20Light/SwitchPanel06.jpg

corax

03-30-2011, 05:08 PM

I don't claim to have figured this one out on my own, I heard about from a guy that did this on his lifted, long travel early 80's Celica. I haven't, however, seen anyone else write it up so it's worth a few minutes to spread the word about a $20 polyurethane engine mount. It's an Energy Suspension GM transmission mount, part number 3.1108 (R or G for red or black). Before I ordered one I measured the stock 22RE engine mount and found it nearly identical. While I don't have a 22RE in my truck anymore I did reuse the 22RE mounts, so this will work on any 22R or 22RE. This might also work for other applications, so hear are the measurements so you can see if it will fit.
http://www.energysuspension.com/assets/images/products/GMtrandiagram.jpg

Note the interlock that will prevent the mount from pulling completely apart if the polyurethane fails. Only the center hole is needed and the supplied bolt is just about the same size as the stud on the factory rubber mount.
http://www.ftpp.net/images/EnergySuspension/GMTrannyMountRed.jpeg

Installation is pretty simple, here's the package I got in the mail. It should be noted that there's a flat piece of anodized metal with 2 holes that comes with it, this needs to go under the mount to line everything up a bit better and provides some kind of preload to the bushing.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/mount1.jpg

I only replaced the driver side mount since this is the one that's under tension, and most likely to tear, when driving forward. 2 bolts (14mm wrench) to the mount pad and 1 nut (17mm) on the engine bracket is all that's holding the old one in. Of course, the engine has to be jacked up a bit to get the old one out, but the new one goes in much easier since there's no stud that has to go through the engine bracket. Also, I heard that the corners of the mount ears might have to be filed down to sit on the factory pad, but I didn't have to file anything to get all the holes to line up. The bolt for the center hole of the engine bracket comes with the Energy Suspension piece along with the appropriate lock and flat washer. If you want, you can use the stock metal cover over top of the mount, but polyurethane is oil and gas resistant so it's not necessary.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/mount2.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/mount3.jpg

I took if for a drive and didn't notice any engine vibrations from the stiffer mount, but then again my inline 6 is a pretty smooth running engine.

corax

04-21-2011, 03:56 PM

I was bored and reading build threads the other day when I stumbled across these (http://www.yotatech.com/f198/dunnarunners-1985-4runner-build-up-thread-195276/index5.html#post51550942) pics of a bar across the rear side windows. I sent the truck's owner a PM asking about them and this was his reply:

The bar is actually a Toyota part, it was mainly in the Surf's of that time, they are held in place with a screw at each end, and where your hook inside between the rear window and the sliding window, remove that hook, and that is the forward mount, and where the screw goes into the rear section the is a small hole already in the canopy. That is the rear mount for this bar. It is a very sturdy mount believe it or not. Where Toyota have put the screws it is very strong, I have used it for carrying ropes and hanging clothes on trips and even used it to hang camping lights. The heaviest thing that has been tied to them is a 25ltr jerry can for drinking water. I tied the handles of the jerry can to the rails to stop them from falling over when we went camping a few times, and they have never pulled out yet.

So cool, I can make something like that and gain a little bit of utility in the process. Take off the front coat hanger thing, whatever this is . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar1.jpg
. . . and pull the tiny little plug out for the rear screw with a flat blade screwdriver (I never even noticed this before)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar2.jpg

I bought some 1/2" conduit, cut two 31" lengths and hammered the ends flat on a piece of concrete with my ball peen hammer. 3/4" conduit will be too wide to fit between the raised lip in the front mount, so stick with 1/2."
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar3.jpg
Make sure the flat sections at the end are on the same plane, not that one flat is twisted a bit from the other or they won't sit flush against the mounting surface - a pair of channel lock pliers can twist them back into alignment if needed. I also had to mark and clearance the tube a little bit for the front of the window frame (behind the roll bar).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar4.jpg

The mounting holes on my 4runner are 30.25" apart, so holes were drilled in the appropriate spots. A bit of Rustoleum Hammered paint and they were mounted. The front screw is #10 x 1/2" long, I used the screw that was originally up front in the rear hole.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar5.jpg
I added another bar to the top of both rear side windows using (2) #10x1/2" screws at each end. They're surprisingly sturdy and I don't expect 'em to ever pull out - I can rock the truck on its suspension by pushing/pulling on these without any movement from them.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar7.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar6.jpg

The reason for the top bar is so I can mount a piece wire closet shelf between the two to attach MOLLE/PALS bags. As long as the wires are 1" center-to-center these bags will attach easily and securely.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar8.jpg

Finished product with the thick vertical wires bent over for mounting. I temporarily mounted it with wire ties, but it seems secure enough as is. If it comes loose, hose clamps would be the simple solution.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/windowbar9.jpg

I may try to find some wire shelf with thicker horizontal wires or more verticals. The wires on the long span bend a bit easily, although the MOLLE/PALS gear, when properly strung up, will distribute the weight to each wire its attached to. The other problem has to do with stringing up the MOLLE/PALS gear with the wire shelf install on the shell - there's not really enough room to work. I think if I can find thicker gauge shelf, I might break out the welder and make the piece bolt on so the gear bags can be strung up and then the panel bolted on.

corax

05-16-2011, 06:21 PM

Got a few more minor projects finished lately. I installed dual power outlets in the back - these are fed by 10 gauge wire from the battery and are "constant hot"
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/rearpower.jpg

I also moved the grab handle from the driver rear to the driver front and put my Mag-Lite where the grab handle used to be (another 4Crawler inspired mod (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/GrabHandle.shtml)). One of the original grab handle screw holes were used on each clip with a hole drilled for the 2nd hole - I've hit bumps at speed that put my spine through the top of my head and the light stayed in place so I'm not worried about it coming loose very easily.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/maglite1.jpg

While I was back there I finally mounted my extinguisher to the roll bar. 2" u-bolts kept me from having to drill through the bar and will keep the extinguisher from ever coming loose on its own.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/fireextinguisher.jpg

When I replaced the transmission a few weeks ago I broke both sway-bar end links. I can tell the difference in cornering and without them there's a lot more tire squeal. Since this is my DD and I like to drive fast whenever I can, Energy Suspension 9.8118 end links are the same size and work perfectly.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/100_4569.jpg

I realized at the Oregon Trail Rally that it'd be nice to have my comm's speaker up high instead of in front of the center console. A short length of 1" aluminum angle and a few minutes with my Dremel gave me the solution. I'll probably end up buying another speaker and having one side for the CB and one side for the Ham radio - the sound is much better with them up there.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/CBspeaker1.jpg
The piece of angle is just sandwiched between the rearview and the roof
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/CBspeaker2.jpg

corax

12-25-2012, 04:43 PM

I'm not a "big stereo" person and see no need for the people next to me to hear what I'm listening to, but with the rear storage box and everything crammed in on the sides, the rear speakers were getting pretty muffled. I was just about to start in on building a thin plywood speaker box to sandwich the rear roll bar and move the speakers higher when I decided to (gasp) SEARCH, and found a thread on another forum (http://www.yotatech.com/f96/1st-gen-4runner-rollbar-pod-speakers-210463/) that gave me some ideas. So instead of the plywood, I decided to hit up my favorite big box store for some plumbing supplies. This is what I'm going to build off of - it's a 6" floor drain grate. The inner diameter is 5 3/8" and the outer flange diameter is 6 3/4" so a 6.5" speaker should fit perfect.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/016inchdraingrill.jpg
grill cut out and ready for a speaker
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/02grillcutout.jpg

All of the mounts are some form of 90 degree bracket. The rear and front bottom use one side of a 2" u-bolt to attach to the roll bar. The upper front uses the back side of the upper shoulder belt attachment. The speaker magnet is flush with the end of the 6" drain grate. Because there's not much room behind that and the trim, I'm leaving it as a "free air" speaker. The marine speakers I picked up have 2 sets of mounting holes, 1 set is on a smaller diameter than the other and this set matched the pipe wall itself. So I carefully predrilled the mounting holes and ran the 1.5" screws down the pipe wall (no sharp screw tips sticking out).

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/03speakerpod.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/04speakerpod.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/05.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/06.jpg
there's less than 1/8" between the hi-lift and the speaker grill, but it fits
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/random%20projects/07.jpg

The rear's sound better but not quite as loud as before since they're just running off the head unit. So now I'm wondering if I should have pulled the mini-amplifiers off of the original speakers and connected them to the new speakers. BTW, the head unit is pushing 52W max to these speakers (speakers rated @ 30W nominal, 160W max)

corax

12-25-2012, 04:46 PM

I figure it was time for a new project and with some of the organizations I'm trying to get involved with a winch bumper is in order. I modeled the base of it off Robinhood4x4's bumper build (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=177.0) - I really dig his multi-mount functionality. That takes care of the center part / winch mount, I still had to decide on what I want to do with the wings. Excuse the poor google Sketch Up renderings, but this is what I started with in my mind. I could have easily built another tube bumper, something like this
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/tube1alt1.jpg
and mocked up to a 2nd gen pickup since I couldn't find a pre-made 4runner model (ignore the factory bumper)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/tubealtmockup.jpg

Or I was thinking of making a tube bumper and then fiberglassing between the tubes to make front storage compartments. The finished product would look something like this, the lateral lines off the center section would be tube - the 2 lowest tubes being 1.5" and the 2 upper ones just 1"
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/plate1.jpg
I couldn't get the planes to fill in on the bumper quite right, but hopefully this'll give some kind of idea what it'd look like covered
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/platemockup.jpg

I decided against the front storage idea partly because I started to realize the compartments would be small and difficult to seal - I could see the PNW turning them into a mold & mildew experiment.

This is where I started. I picked up a 1/4 plate remnant and made the center part of the bumper. Here it is all laid out and ready to get cut
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/01winchmountlaidout.jpg

After a few hours with the Sawzall, grinder and HF Welder (just to tack it together). I took it to work and use their welder to burn the final welds in - every gusset and plate is welded on both sides. I also added the center gussets once the receiver box was fully welded in. I'll also add mounting bolts in the center of the crossmember (which is already reinforced with Front Range Offroad's 1/4" plate frame brace (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=63)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/03winchmount.jpg)

Here's the center section all finished up. I decided to angle the inner gussets to help with any side loads I might generate. Luckily, the receiver cradle only tightened up about 1/32" after I was done welding so there was minimal grinding needed to get the receiver tube to slide in again.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/06winchmount.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/07winchmount.jpg

A little bit more progress. The main bars were bent and tacked into place well enough to transport it into work so I can finish weld them (and heat bend the far passenger side about 1" up to match the other side).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/10firsttubesbent.jpg

BTW, I also figured out a simple solution for the "dimples" that my HF bender leaves in pipe. Here's an example from my old bumper - see the dimple just above the turn signal?
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/08pipedimples.jpg

The fix was simple - I got a threaded pipe nipple big enough to fit over the 1.5" sch 40, cut in in half length wise and placed between the pipe and rollers. Now when I'm bending, the pressure isn't localized and there are no more dimples :D
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/09fixforpipedimples.jpg

One more project down and mostly finished - I still want to bend up some headlight guards out of 1" pipe, but that can wait awhile. The white paint is Rustoleum oil based white metal primer, after it dries for a few days it'll get a healthy coat of black oil based paint. And yes, I need to make a stop by Fastenal for some 12mm x 1.25 bolts to fill the other mounting holes.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/13finished.jpg

As with any project, it evolved and changed a bit while it was being put together. For example, once I get a winch, removal will have to be from the front - I don't think there's enough space between the top hoop and the grill to lift it straight up, so I had to change the top hoop a bit to make sure there was enough room to slide the winch forward.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/12finished.jpg

I also decided to attach the top hoop to the lower lateral tube instead of the main tube. This allowed me to lean it forward a bit more than if it was welded to the main tube.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/14finished.jpg

I didn't primer the lower half of the lateral tube because I need to heat it up to get the bolt holes at the bottom to line up again (welding the hoop onto the lower tube caused it to shift a little. BTW, like the parking light? That was just radiant heat from the tube when I heated it up to fine tune the bend. By the time I saw what was happening it was already too late.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/15finished.jpg

After a few months, I finally got around to bending up the headlight guards.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/headlightguard01.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/bumper/headlightguard02.jpg

corax

12-25-2012, 04:49 PM

I finished it (more-or-less) about 10 months ago, which is why I'm just quoting the posts that I made elsewhere.

I've been thinking about this project for a little while now. I just don't have anywhere to mount my Yaesu FT2800 2M Ham and I don't use 70cm enough to justify buying a new radio with a remote mount head yet - my eventual plan is to upgrade to an FT8900 or FT8800 which is slightly smaller and should fit the frame I'm building now. A few months ago I found this console on Dept of the Interior (http://www.consoles.com.au/) and that got the gears turning (BTW, their application list is HUGE - don't know if they export though)
http://www.consoles.com.au/Images/Roof/Forerunner%20_low_2.jpg

This is my starting point, wall shelf track cut and tacked to the profile of my headliner (excuse the poor stitch job on the panoramic). It's a structural shape and will be fine supporting the minimal loads I plan to use it for.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4821.jpg

The front mount is getting sandwiched between the rear view and the roof. The rear is where I had a problem. Pulling the interior light out and feeling around, I realized there is a metal channel at the back of the roof nearly 2.5" wide. This would suffice with the help of some RivNuts. So I measured and drilled holes . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4818.jpg

. . . before popping in a few 1/4" RivNuts. The ones I got from the local Grainger are Stainless and were a lot harder to put in place than the cheapie aluminum ones - I have no doubt they will not pull out of the sheet metal
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4822.jpg

BTW, for cheap 2" wide x 1/8" thick (12ga) flat stock, check out the lumber tie straps at the big box home improvement stores - I got this 36" piece for less than $10
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4825.jpg

I got it bolted up, but far from finished, today.
Front sandwiched between the rearview and the roof:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4827.jpg

Rear needs some slight "fine-tuning" to get the rest of the bolts in + I'm going to run 2 scraps of channel back onto the plate for reinforcement:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4828.jpg

Overall, for now:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4829.jpg

I got the radio brackets made and welded on today. Amazingly enough, all the holes were in the correct spots and the radio bolted right up after it was tacked onto the frame (out of vehicle, NOT using my radio as a jig while welding). My head is still fairly far away from the radio, I would really have to try to smack my head against it. In an accident, as long as the seat belt locks like it should, I'll have plenty of room.

I also drilled a bunch of other holes in the mounting bracket to adjust the angle of the radio. I plan on getting thumb screw type bolts so I just have to remove one from each side and move the radio to the angle I want - probably face it down a bit more if I'm expecting more use.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4832.jpg

For the trim so far I'm thinking of leaving the side of the radio completely exposed so I can get to the adjustment - just running an acute triangle from the very front of the frame to the above the radio face.

I'm also not sure what else I want to mount up there, so suggestions are welcome. Probably a small "project box" with my lightbar switches. I'm thinking 2 low amp 12V power outlets piggybacked off the radio power circuit would be useful. I'd also like some map lights that I can aim (preferably something I can find at the Pick N Pull for cheap), maybe something like this
http://www.mecatruckchrome.com/prodimg/CCI3336.JPG

or this from the older Fords
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2-3l-talk/55257d1226600361-map-light-rarity-question-maplightfront.jpg

I found a bit more inspiration on which direction I might take next, but I can't find any info on the company that built these. I kinda dig the fold-down compartment in the last pic.

http://www.cruiserheadstore.com/cruiserheads/products_pictures/tec4x4_lightraveller_big.jpg

http://www.cruiserheadstore.com/carro/products_pictures/tec4x4_extreme_big.jpg

http://www.cruiserheadstore.com/carro/products_pictures/tec4x4_big.jpg

The frame is done, so the next step is to bridge the spaces with MDF and then fiberglass over it all. The big flat bits on the left are the radio mounts the short diagonal parts near there are the switch panel mounts. The trapezoid thing on the right is for light/soft/small object storage - it's getting MDF on the front, rear, and bottom with a bungee mesh on both sides.

When it's upside down, it kinda looks like a big remote control car or mini rat-rod frame
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4835.jpg

Using 1/8" MDF, I "sewed" panels onto the frame. Screws would have shown through the 'glass and I figured nylon thread will soak up the resin and not show on the final product. Since the switch panel comes right to the top of the radio face, I decided not to have the power outlets (for plug in gooseneck map lights, etc) in the panel itself - anything I plugged in would get in the way of the 2M radio. So I welded on 2 more small panels to side mount the power outlets.

I still need to drill the holes for the shock cord mesh that will keep things in the small storage area and make a hole to recess my remote CB speaker, but otherwise I think it's finally ready for 'glass. From the switch panel forward (to the left in the pic) will probably just stay as painted metal while the rest will get covered in 'glass cloth - maybe just 3-4 layers and following the contour of the frame to give me recessed areas for future mounting options. So far, my total cost is less than $20 - I expect it might hit $30 after I buy some fiberglass cloth & resin

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_48381.jpg

I think my problem was that I was trying to use pieces of cloth that were too big - if you've ever played with fiberglass cloth you know how easily small piece fray and come apart. That, and years ago I got some sage advice from a trusted body guy, "At some point you gotta stop *%&#ing with it or you'll just make it worse." So I used a razor to cut off the parts that didn't stick to the frame and laid down strips of cloth over the bare parts. The cloth and resin stuck to the MDF boards just fine. It still wasn't adhering to the metal quite how I wanted, so I put a piece of tissue over the cloth and set a piece of wood on top to hold it down. The tissue will soak up some of the resin, but should be easy enough to tear or lightly sand off once dry. A friend also told me that doing this outside (~50 degrees, no work shop) probably didn't help much.

Anyway, I got the frame all covered and somewhat finished - I'm going to live with it for a few weeks before I string up the shock cord. This isn't going to be the final color - it's just some cheap paint I threw on to see how wavy the fiberglass really is - final color is going to be a flat or matte grey like my dash. If I had it to do over, it would be much easier to fiberglass, and the results would be prettier, with mdf on both sides of the metal frame.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4840.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4841.jpg

So here's "good enough for now" - eventually I'll drill the holes to zig zag some shock cord across the small storage area. The plate above my Yaesu still needs to be drilled for the lightbar switches, and you can see the power outlets that I might use for goose-neck map lights on either side.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4843.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4848.jpg

I also have this in mind to keep the mic cord from swinging around. I already tested it out just haven't mounted it, when I pull on the mic the cord falls right out of the holder. If you need to know where I got this little plastic gem . . . it's a piece that has to be removed from an ES300 window regulator before install (holds a wire spool in place).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4850.jpg

finished and mounted the switch plate. The red LED toggle powers the light bar switches - that way I have some kind of visual letting me know I may have flashing lights on my roof. The 2 top toggles are the white take-down and alley lights. Yellow cap is the amber rotators, red is amber/red front and rear flashers and the green cap is for the stage closing green rotators.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4855.jpg