SAS thought process

[mYnAmEiSmUdD]

Instead of starting a new thread i figured id post my shopping lists here. Most prices are for brand new parts and from trail-gear.com. (I will like buy most of what i can from waskilly... He, as well as you all, are helping my noob ass out... =D I find trail-gears site handy because i <i>need</i> colorfully pictures to which i can clicky. I also enjoy long rides on horizontally challenged busses!)

So much for what i said about rushing into this earlier... lol

I guess my moto for my build is going to have to be go big or go home. (AKA, do it right the first time.)


Parts
IFS Eliminator 3" or 4"
Rear Lift 5"
HP front 3rd w/ arb
4 cyl 3rd w/ arb
Long Fields front
Rear Axle shafts
Knuckle service w/BRG's
Aisin Hubs
Crawl Box
X member
M & S clutch cyl.
1" brake master CYL.
Rotors
v6 Calipers
Extended brake lines
Diff armor/upper gusset
Knuckle Ball Kit
Axle Breather Kit x2

GRAND EFFING TOTAL! (YIKES!) ~7090 Mr. Washingtons. w00t!

A few questions
Lift: A friend of mine has advised me to go 3" up front and 5" in the rear to keep the truck from
sqautting too bad. Is 1" sufficient with the fiberglass on top or should i go 2"? Note:
i do not plan on running tires bigger than 36" and plan on running 4.88's)

Hubs: I have been reading that Chromoly hubs are the way to go? Can i use my IFS hubs on my SFA?

3rd's: Will i need a high pinion up front w/ 3-4" of lift?? Should i be using v6 thirds? Do i
need ARB's compressor to run their lockers? (i plan on converting my a/c down the road)




Things i believe that i am forgetting
-Rear axle service "kit"?
-Rear Disk "Kit"?
-(ARB?) compressor
-Front DRiveline
-Tires/Rims

Thank you all again for allowing me to pick your brains!!!
Cheers

[Robinhood4x4]

Instead of starting a new thread i figured id post my shopping lists here.


Nah, this deserves it's own post in the fab section.

[waskillywabbit]

A few questions
Lift: A friend of mine has advised me to go 3" up front and 5" in the rear to keep the truck from
sqautting too bad. Is 1" sufficient with the fiberglass on top or should i go 2"? Note:
i do not plan on running tires bigger than 36" and plan on running 4.88's)

Hubs: I have been reading that Chromoly hubs are the way to go? Can i use my IFS hubs on my SFA?

3rd's: Will i need a high pinion up front w/ 3-4" of lift?? Should i be using v6 thirds? Do i
need ARB's compressor to run their lockers? (i plan on converting my a/c down the road)


Lift: No more than a 1" difference IMO unless you are going to go crazy loading out the back.

Hubs: Longfield makes a chromoly hub gear so you can use your IFS hubs work on your SFA.

3rds: HPs are overrated IMO and not necessary and 4 cyl 3rds are plenty strong. The install and setup of gears/lockers is the key.

:guitar:

[Robinhood4x4]

Hubs... no you can't use IFS manual locking hubs on a SA.

High pinion 3rd...it depends. What kind of drive shaft will you be running? If it's a CV probably not. If it's a U-joint then no, you don't need it. This assumes you will be running dual transfer cases. If only running a single transfer case then you will definitely need a HP if you go with a CV drive shaft and you will probably need one even with U-joints.

Now, whether you're running a CV shaft or not depends on how fast you want to drive in 4wd. If you want to drive fast, like getting up to the slopes for skiing, then you'll probably want a CV. If it's only for low speed stuff, then a normal U joint will be fine.

You don't necessarily need the ARB compressor to power the lockers, but you will need some kind of air pressure source. You can piece together you own 12V compressor, like my caddy compressors, but you will also need to source the parts like a pressure switch, fittings, etc. The ARB kit comes with everything you need.

There's a few things on your list you can cut if you want to save money. If you're easy on things and go slow then you don't need chromoly rear axle shafts. Make your own axle breather extenders. You don't need rear disk brakes. Never heard of a rear axle rebuild kit, but maybe you need it for the chromo axles? Brake lines come with the kits. Front rotors come with the sas kit.

[Robinhood4x4]

Hubs: Longfield makes a chromoly hub gear so you can use your IFS hubs work on your SFA.


Good to know.

[RobG]

If I had it to do over again I would go with E-lockers over ARB's.
- No Compressor to Worry about
- No Leaks to Worry about
- As Durable or more so
- Can be had cheaper than ARB's

Just my opinion, have run ARB's for over 4 years no E-locker experience.

What everyone else said is good advice.

[4runnerchevy]

Ambitious ! :thumbup:

[Seanz0rz]

elockers will need housing modifications to fit, bob's writeup http://www.4runners.org/writeups/elocker/

not horribly difficult. if you are a competent mechanic and fabricator, this should be NO problem. 4x4wire has a better write up for you, but i dont feel like searching for it. they explain the needed massaging of the back of the housing.

[20005spd]

elockers are the only way to go i think. ive had a lockright, a welded 4cyl, and now an elocker. i modified my rear housing for the elocker, and used ors' wiring kit. i also helped install a marlin hi pinion elocker into an 85 front housing. elockers are cheaper than arbs all said and done and you already have electricity on board so why screw with air yet.

here is my friends front housing for his sas which is almost done.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t107/20005spd/DSC00144.jpg
ifs hub gears from long, 5.29 hi pinion solid spacer elocker from marlin, 30 spline longs yada yada yada. we also swapped the 3.0v6 out for a supercharged 3.4 :D

[4runnerchevy]

As far as a compressor is concerned i plan on utilizing my a/c compressor to run on board air. Just need to find a economically sized tank that will hold 150 psi.
Cheers!
[/quote]


Ac Compressor, if you need info. Done

As far as Bud built then, I think you need a little help ! :flipoff:

[Robinhood4x4]

I thought i read somewhere that you had to make housing modifications to fit e-lockers in a factory 8"...?


Maybe I'm not reading this right but it sounds like you think the elocker mechanism is retrofitted into the 8" diff (third member). The whole elocker third member is retrofitted into the axle housing. There are some housing modifications but if you're doing a SAS then you can do the mods.

[Marc P]

I installed a TRD e-locker in my front diff a few months ago. As long as you are careful and measure correctly, the mods to the housing are not too hard.

Here is my write-up....

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=3235.0

[BruceTS]

Is this the tool i am looking for? http://www.4x4xplor.com/images/JKS-QD/jks03.jpg


That's the tool I use to separate them... Harbor Freight sells it as well

To use tighten it down, but if it don't pop apart, take a hammer and give it a good smack, that'll usually break it free.

[Intrepidyota]

Thoughts on my initial build: ("do it right the first time" seems infeasible)

Crawl box is out of the question. Read Marlin Crawlers write up and that is WAY over my head.


It really isn't that bad to be honest. The directions on marlins site are 100% accurate, if you have the tools in question (you can get away without a press) then you can do it even with no experience, just take it slow, compare every picture, and don't be afraid to call Marlin or post up if you have a question. :thumbup:

[Seanz0rz]

go to a harbor freight or home depot and get yourself a flat furniature dolly (or build your own) that works pretty well.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93888

or use a wagon. i used our garden wagon (1000 pound load limit, not your childhood radioflyer) to move mine around. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94908 (though they were ALOT cheaper at lowes..)

[4runnerchevy]

Leaf springs ? :smokin:

I am curious if one has to move the rear spring hanger? I have seen it done on coiled rears and when swaping chevy springs.


Which rear spring hanger front or rear ? I run chevies in the rear, and my rear hangers, are in the stock location, just longer. My front springs are rear toyota's and I moved the front mounts forward 1" and the backs I moved to the best angle 2-3" with a longer shackle.

[Lee]

just take the 3rd out, rotors off, knuckles off.

its not too tough to break down with air tools an the housing itself is relatively light

just be careful not to make a mess carrying it... tons of disgusting old oil in it :laugh: took me quite a while to clean mine up

[Lee]

Once i get the axle torn down and get me a gallon of POR-15, do you apply it with a brush?
cover your skin!!!

my friend used por and got some on his face, neck and arms and it took days to come out, he looked like he had a skin disorder :laugh:

[X-Tool Pimp]

I would go with a "kit" from AllPro or Marlin. From the sounds of it leafs will be just fine. With a leaf set up you wont get the body roll feeling as bad as a linked rig will. just my .02
Heres my buddys runner with a SAS kit, and yes it works very well on and off road.......
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc245/tonytoolpimp/funinthedesert011.jpg

[Robinhood4x4]

Will your run of the mill engine degreaser suffice?

Correct me if i am wrong but a leaf sprung suspension will be more durable than a coil overed 4-link?

Hell i may even grab my camera from seattle and take some pictures. Although it wont be much you cant see at 4X4wire or 4crawler's site.



Degreaser to clean and rebuild your axle? Yeah, anything will work. I think I wiped everything down as well as possible with a ton of paper towels and then used simple green.

Strength wise, leaf spring Vs coils will be the same, but it all depends on how beefy you build things. I can't imagine that either are inherently stronger than the other.

The problem with coils and links is that you need to get the geometry right or else it won't be comfortable on the street. If this is going to be a daily driver then comfort and safe handling will be more important than a trail only truck.

The more write ups the better so take lots of pics!

By the way, a guy named Triage over on Pirate wrote that link calculator.

[Lee]

no of course you have to remove the inners...

sorry that list was out of order :laugh:

rotors, inners, knuckles, 3rd.

[Lee]

as for cleaning out the slop in an axle, i disassembled mine, then bunched up a few shop towels, and pushed them through to the pumpkin with a long broom stick a few times per side... this got A LOT of it out. then i just took towels and wiped the tube down on each side by hand... then i cleaned out the pumpkin... brake clean helps.

in the end it just takes time and attention to detail.

[Robinhood4x4]

Just be glad your oil doesn't look like my oil did when I tore into it.

http://www.robinhood4x4.com/misc/diff%20oil.JPG

[Lee]

hahah looks like it took a dump :laugh:

[X-Tool Pimp]

:lol: :lol: :lol: