new to 3rd gen, need some directions

[2ndGen]

well, got the 99 SR5 over the weekend, now the planning starts, i need some advise from you seasoned 3rd gen owners.

first, i'm not into rock crawling, level 2 is the most i'd consider. right now, it's bone stock, with new clutch and new A/T tires. i'm planning on getting the following:

1. front bumper: i like the look of TJM-17 but too much money and too heavy. tube bumper in the front at least for now, keep the weight low.
2. rear bumper: box type rear bumper, so far, i like the one BruceTS made THE most, without the tire carrier.
3. sliders: i have a brand new in box Trail Gear sliders, just need to be welded
4. lift: oh, boy!! with all the options out there, i think the SS1.2 would be the best, expensive yet proven to be solid in and out.
5. skid: downey
6. fluids: ordered RedLine GL-5 for the diff's, and MT-90 for TC and Trans, i had them in my 94, couldn't be happier with the Redline's. they are going in next week.
7. lighting: having astigmatism makes me a sucker of bright lights. i'd love to do an HID conversion, but i have zero idea on how.

any comments? specially, which is the right order on those projects i should follow.

thanks.

[BruceTS]

first, i'm not into rock crawling, level 5 is the most i'd consider.

1. front bumper: i like the look of TJM-17 but too much money and too heavy. tube bumper in the front at least for now, keep the weight low.

2. rear bumper: box type rear bumper, so far, i like the one BruceTS made THE most, without the tire carrier.

3. sliders: i have a brand new in box Trail Gear sliders, just need to be welded




You do realize the rating system used on offroad trails is 1 to 5. 1 being easiest and 5 being hardest....

Actually the TJM-17 is your best bet for a light bumper, they appear to be heavy, but are made with 11 guage steel......

As for rear bumper, I got your PM, but haven't had a chance to respond.....

The sliders you got.... what is the overall length? ....60" is too short, you need 66"

[2ndGen]

Bruce,

i edited the skill levels, i thought they were ranging from 1 to 10.

i've been a fan of TJM-17 for a long time, i even had Steve at SS quoted me last week shipped. i have a jeep pre-runner bumper i bought for cheap laying at my garage, i think i'll try cut some 1.5" .120 wall tubing see if i can weld them together, if it turns out ok, i'll keep it, if not, then TJM, baby!!

i'll check on the length of the sliders later.

thanks.

[neliconcept]

first, i'm not into rock crawling, level 5 is the most i'd consider.

1. front bumper: i like the look of TJM-17 but too much money and too heavy. tube bumper in the front at least for now, keep the weight low.

2. rear bumper: box type rear bumper, so far, i like the one BruceTS made THE most, without the tire carrier.

3. sliders: i have a brand new in box Trail Gear sliders, just need to be welded




You do realize the rating system used on offroad trails is 1 to 5. 1 being easiest and 5 being hardest....

Actually the TJM-17 is your best bet for a light bumper, they appear to be heavy, but are made with 11 guage steel......

As for rear bumper, I got your PM, but haven't had a chance to respond.....

The sliders you got.... what is the overall length? ....60" is too short, you need 66"


true for the west, but in colorado its 1-10

some parks east they use ski slope signs like black, blue, green, double black diamond... blah blah

pretty much ranges wherever.. damnit cant type with broke hand

[BruceTS]

true for the west, but in colorado its 1-10

some parks east they use ski slope signs like black, blue, green, double black diamond... blah blah

pretty much ranges wherever..



Sorry but the offroad trail rating system has always been on a scale of 1 to 5

0.0 - Paved Roads
* These are paved roads suitable for everyday traffic.

0.5- Back Roads
* These are paved roads that may have filled or unfilled potholes. Typical paved county roads.

1.0- Maintained Dirt Road
* These roads are graded or maintained year round. Typical non-paved county roads.

1.5- Semi Maintained Dirt Roads
* These roads are occasionally graded or maintained. They may cross sandy washes and sections may be rough (washboards).

2.0 - Easy 2WD/4WD
* Features trails with obstacles that are easy to navigate. In optimum weather conditions, these trails may not require the continual use of four-wheel drive (4WD).

2.5 - Easy 4WD
* Moderately demanding trails on which 4WD will be required. You may encounter a wide variety of challenges (Potholes, minor washouts, medium size rocks, and mud holes) on these trails. Higher ground clearance and Off-Road tires are recommended.

3.0 - Standard 4WD
* Standard 4WD trail: Demanding trails on which 4WD is required. You will encounter a variety of more difficult challenges (loose rocks, large potholes, steep inclines, and large rocks) on these trails. Possible with stock 4WD vehicle, however, recommend traction device (limited slip) in rear differential, aggressive tread and low air pressure. Higher than stock ground clearance is advisable. Low range gears used often. Moderate experience and driving skill advised. Likely paint damage, possible rocker-panel damage.

3.5 - Challenging 4WD
* Challenging trails on which low range 4WD is required. You will encounter a variety of more difficult challenges (loose rocks, large potholes, steep inclines, and large rocks) on these trails. Not recommended with stock 4WD vehicle. Traction device (limited slip) in rear differential, aggressive tread and low air pressure highly recommended. Higher than stock ground clearance is advisable. Moderate experience and driving skill advised. Likely paint damage, possible rocker-panel damage.

4.0 - Difficult
* These trails traverse very rugged terrain; low-range 4WD is required. Higher than stock ground clearance is required. Aggressive tread and low air pressure are required. Traction Devices (Lockers or limited-slip) in the differentials (front and rear), lift, and larger tires are highly recommended. These trails require above average Off-Road driving skills. High-Lift jacks and winches would also be helpful. There will likely be paint damage and possible vehicle body and/or mechanical damage.

4.5 - Extreme
* These trails cross extremely rugged terrain with very steep inclines, large boulders, and potentially dangerous situations. These trails require modified vehicles, including lift, lockers, and over-sized tires. A High level of Off-Road driving skill is required. There will likely be paint damage, possible vehicle body and/or mechanical damage. There are possibilities of rollovers. Winches are recommended.

5.0 - Impassable
* These trails are for the extreme four-wheeler only. These trails require highly modified vehicles, including lift, excellent articulation, lockers front and rear, large tires with aggressive tread, winches, high lift jacks. A High level of Off-Road driving skill is required. Paint damage is virtually guaranteed, body and/or mechanical damage is very likely. Rollovers will be more common on these trails and a winch will be used on at least one obstacle.



more links

http://www.expeditionswest.com/resources/expedition_handbook/trail_rating.htm
http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images/trailrating/trailrating.html


even the symbol system is on a scale of 1 to 5
http://www.imba.com/resources/trail_building/itn_17_4_trail_difficulty.html

[20005spd]

trail gear sliders for 4runners are 60" long. they should be longer but ive been on some decent rock trails with my lil 32" tires and never had the length be an issue.

[Seanz0rz]

the 60 inch will be ok, its what i have, and most others who bought theirs prior to about nov 07 when i noticed that they could be longer.

as for skid plates, i dont really like anything downey makes, take a look at budbuilt. never heard ANY complaints other than the bolts

as for driving lights, maybe a pair of hella 4000 with a hid conversion,

[4Runner202020]

true for the west, but in colorado its 1-10

some parks east they use ski slope signs like black, blue, green, double black diamond... blah blah

pretty much ranges wherever..



Sorry but the offroad trail rating system has always been on a scale of 1 to 5



i always thought colorado was a scale of 1-10
look here.

http://www.traildamage.com/trails/index.php

[YotaFun]

true for the west, but in colorado its 1-10

some parks east they use ski slope signs like black, blue, green, double black diamond... blah blah

pretty much ranges wherever..



Sorry but the offroad trail rating system has always been on a scale of 1 to 5



i always thought colorado was a scale of 1-10
look here.

http://www.traildamage.com/trails/index.php


Here in PA We have the color scale.
Green is easy
Dark Green is Moderate
Blue is Advanced
Red is "You better have a locker and 35+ tires"
Black is "Damage will occur! Need Winch, 40+ tires double locked"

[YotaFun]

1) Bumpers I have no input on, I am a fan of the shockworks, I thought that was light?
2) Rear bumper, Bruce is your man.
3) Sliders: Everyone has given there input on it, I just measured and yeah 66 looks to be a better alternative.
4) Lift: Sean is currently Running the lift equivalent to the one your looking into, I still have it waiting to go on (going to get it powder coated to stand out :D )
5) Skids, Budbuilt and Skid Row, both look very strong, and like Sean I just don't really like anything Downey
6) Fluids you seem pretty set on so no need for input there.
7) What state are you in? Cause Lights could be a very fun issue (Ask Me How I Know.......:rollseyes:) The 500 are decent for jsut some little extra umph, but the 4000 with the HID conversion like Sean said can be fun, I believe it was Bruce that did this, and there is a thread somewhere on it, Correct me ladies and gents if I am wrong.

As for anything else to consider, depending on where you are, the Diff breather mod would be nice if you come in contact with water and mud.
IF you want a little more upmh from your engine and want to make is sound pretty cool in the process, there is the Deckplate mod, assited with the ISR mod <----this one can =go either way, some like and some don't

As for the order to do it all, the jury is still out on there.
A lot of guys will say do the lift first, others would say do the armor first.
Me, I am kind of all doing it at once, but before all of that I will be getting a locker, if you don't have something to look into, cause a stock right with a locker will get farther then a lifted truck with and open diff (Again ask me how I know :D )

[2ndGen]

should i do the lift first? or does it metter. for my understanding amoung all these projects i'm planning, the lift would be costing the most. i just paid cash for the vehicle, lift has to wait a bit. my fear is if i did the other stuff first then come back doing the lift, the bumpers, skid won't fit any more.

[YotaFun]

The bumpers should have no issue with the lift unless you plan on doing a body lift as well.
The skids on the other hand could be a different story, since the SS list involves a diff drop, you would have to order skids in the long run that fit there with a diff drop.
I have no skids at the moment (decided to just up and fall off my last little outing) and probably wont get replaced till I get the mounts fixed and the lift on.

I honestly can not tell you which one you should do first.
I am doing the lift first but thats only because I will be stopping after I get my locker and sliders and 33" tires.

What size tire do you plan on running eventually?

[2ndGen]

i wanna take advantage of the clear headlight lenses, coverting the current H4/9003 headlights to HID. as for the off-road lights, i have my kick-ass roof rack equipped with 2 PIAA 130W 9" wide halo's and other too 100W round lights.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w38/tonniechengca/RUNNER/P1000530.jpg

rear diff breather is on the menue, has anyone done the front, too?

No locker in the near furture, too much money and too little use(for me).

extending the slider by 6" is not a difficult thing to do with a mig and some tubing. just another reason i need to buy a chop saw. lol...


tires? 32" for now.

[garrett]

heres a good reference site for converting to HIDs:

http://wecool.net/home/Lights/4RunnerRetro.htm

I've read that porsche projectors look best in our 4Runner light housings because they are bigger than most (3" diameter)

[YotaFun]

i wanna take advantage of the clear headlight lenses, coverting the current H4/9003 headlights to HID. as for the off-road lights, i have my kick-ass roof rack equipped with 2 PIAA 130W 9" wide halo's and other too 100W round lights.

rear diff breather is on the menue, has anyone done the front, too?

No locker in the near furture, too much money and too little use(for me).

extending the slider by 6" is not a difficult thing to do with a mig and some tubing. just another reason i need to buy a chop saw. lol...


tires? 32" for now.


The HID are cool yes, but can be illegal.
But that never stopped anyone, including myself, since when I eventually change headlamps I will be doing the converstion.

Sweet set up on the lights, you should be all good there.

IIRC the 3rd gen already have a front ext. diff breather, and I think even the 99+ have a transfer case breather.
The following image shows the front diff breather:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/DSCN0390.jpg
Located on the left side of the engine bay near the wheel well.

There is one there cause I have a 97, but I know on my stepdads 02' he has 2 breathers there.

Word on the locker, I actually need it here for the trails so.

Ah, cool that you have the skills to extend the sliders :D

You should be good with your current susupension set up for the 32s.
IIRC Andy (bamachem) on of the Staff here on the site is running 32s on his current 99 4Runner with no lift, I could be wrong so someone please correct me if I am.



heres a good reference site for converting to HIDs:

http://wecool.net/home/Lights/4RunnerRetro.htm

I've read that porsche projectors look best in our 4Runner light housings because they are bigger than most (3" diameter)


Great Link Garrett!

[4Runner202020]

i wanna take advantage of the clear headlight lenses, coverting the current H4/9003 headlights to HID. as for the off-road lights, i have my kick-ass roof rack equipped with 2 PIAA 130W 9" wide halo's and other too 100W round lights.

rear diff breather is on the menue, has anyone done the front, too?

No locker in the near furture, too much money and too little use(for me).

extending the slider by 6" is not a difficult thing to do with a mig and some tubing. just another reason i need to buy a chop saw. lol...


tires? 32" for now.


The HID are cool yes, but can be illegal.
But that never stopped anyone, including myself, since when I eventually change headlamps I will be doing the converstion.

Sweet set up on the lights, you should be all good there.

IIRC the 3rd gen already have a front ext. diff breather, and I think even the 99+ have a transfer case breather.
The following image shows the front diff breather:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/DSCN0390.jpg
Located on the left side of the engine bay near the wheel well.

There is one there cause I have a 97, but I know on my stepdads 02' he has 2 breathers there.

Word on the locker, I actually need it here for the trails so.

Ah, cool that you have the skills to extend the sliders :D

You should be good with your current susupension set up for the 32s.
IIRC Andy (bamachem) on of the Staff here on the site is running 32s on his current 99 4Runner with no lift, I could be wrong so someone please correct me if I am.



heres a good reference site for converting to HIDs:

http://wecool.net/home/Lights/4RunnerRetro.htm

I've read that porsche projectors look best in our 4Runner light housings because they are bigger than most (3" diameter)


Great Link Garrett!


you are right on the 32's and a stock set up. 265 75 16's are considered 32's.

[20005spd]

i ran my 265/75/16 on stock setup. fits perfectly. but now that i have lift and could use a larger tire on the trail it kinda sucks. i should have listened to everyone who gave their input to me, if your going to wheel it more than just an occasional dirt road then get at least 33" either 285/75 or 33x12.5

[2ndGen]

ok, folks, here are some really newbie questions:

1.) where is the fog lamp switch? according to the owner's manual, there should be a switch new the headlight switch, but, no, there isn't one.

2.) which manual trans i have? i've trying to order shifter bushing and socket from Marlin, but their phone lines have been dead for 2 days, my calls went directly to a recording. WTH..

thanks.

[BruceTS]

ok, folks, here are some really newbie questions:

1.) where is the fog lamp switch? according to the owner's manual, there should be a switch new the headlight switch, but, no, there isn't one.

2.) which manual trans i have? i've trying to order shifter bushing and socket from Marlin, but their phone lines have been dead for 2 days, my calls went directly to a recording. WTH..

thanks.



If it didn't come with fog lights from factory then you need to install the whole switch assembly....

Marlins and crew are out of the shop til next week, he's at the jamboree in Johnson's Valley right now...

[2ndGen]

bruce,

i'm talking about this:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w38/tonniechengca/IMG00097.jpg

as for Marlin, i just saw the event you mentioned on their website, i'll call them next week.

thanks.

[YotaFun]

bruce,

i'm talking about this:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w38/tonniechengca/IMG00097.jpg

as for Marlin, i just saw the event you mentioned on their website, i'll call them next week.

thanks.


That is your turn signal dude...

The circular cut out next to it is where the factory fog lights would have gone.

[2ndGen]

ok, it's gotta be friday.


:(

[YotaFun]

ok, it's gotta be friday.


:(


I know exactly where your coming from dude...

[2ndGen]

i didn't sleep much last night, the slow economy has kept me grounded for a long while. i was used to be out fishing twice a month, but i haven't be out for the last 10 months. i'll head out to Long Beach in just couple hours for a 2-day trip. last night i had a big cup of "are we there, yet?".

[BruceTS]

bruce,

i'm talking about this:
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w38/tonniechengca/IMG00097.jpg

as for Marlin, i just saw the event you mentioned on their website, i'll call them next week.

thanks.


to the left in that picture is a round plug, you remove that to install a fog light.....

[2ndGen]

couple more questions:
how much would cost me for a Toyota e-locker with harness
anyone can tell what gear i have from looking at the data plate?

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w38/tonniechengca/P1000919.jpg

[YotaFun]

Here is a link I found when I googled Finding Gear ratio.
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=274535

Hope that helps

[2ndGen]

yeah, i've read that page few times, also this:

http://www.toysport.com/technical%20information/Toyota%20Differentials%20Identifications.htm

but still, it's so confusing. which code is axle code?

[Seanz0rz]

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Toyota_axle_codes.html

the one that starts with vzn is your axle code.

btw, for my code, there are three possible choices, making figuring it out by code essentially useless...

raise one wheel off the ground, mark the tire and the dshaft, and rotate and count, if you have 4.10:1, every one turn of the tire should rotate the dshaft 4.1 turns, turn the tire 10 times. count the number of full dshaft revolutions, and then take that number, and divide by 10. thats your ratio. you will likely have 4.10

[2ndGen]

bumer!! i found a guy selling a toy 4.30 e-locker.

[Seanz0rz]

you could still buy it and regear the front. the 4.30 would be a better match (still not necessarily correct, but a good compromise) to 285/75r16 tires. and would suit your current 32's nicely (bringing it closer to stock final drive ratio (265/70r16 with 4.10))

[2ndGen]

hell, with it. i'm gonna go check it out, but 140 miles round trip is a bitch!. if the gears are different than ones i have, i think i need to get both front and rear 3rd's. what else i need to take? switches? harness? circuit boards?

ok, here is a kicker, ANYBODY LOOKING FOR A TRD SUPERCHARGER???!!! sorry for the yelling, i wish i have the cash, but he's asking $1800 for it.

[4runfun]

i would love to put a supercharger in my truck, but after reading the wiki on the upgrades and installs it sounds like you need deep pockets for that. is he including all the upgrades like the 7th injector and all the other gadgets needed to not blow your truck up.

[BruceTS]

with the rising cost of fuel I wouldn't even think of adding one, since you'd be required to run premium fuel afterwards..