Rust, Bent Metal, & Gear Oil = A Fine Rig.... Issues That Need Addressing

[YotaFun]

As many of you may know, I have had the Sonoran Steel System 1.51 sitting in my bedroom.
Reasons why:
1) I got broadsided a week after I got the lift
2) Finances became an issue
3) I want to get the lift powder coated

So now that I have the truck back, and money is coming in slowly again.
This memorial day weekend I will be getting the lift powder coated and assembled.

So, today, while I was cleaning out the garage I thought I would look over the truck a little.
So I decided to start up front and work my way back.
So first I pulled of the front tire like so:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03780.jpg

As you can see, Rust and Dirt. No surprise for a North East Off-Roader.
Anyway.
I was looking over some of the components that I would be replacing or reusing.
First I looked at the top of the frot assembly where the shock and coils are attached:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03783.jpg

As you can see the wonderful north east salt road have gotten the better of the nuts and studs.
So I have come to the conclusion that I will replace the nuts. (at least for the coil since the shock already came with a nut)
I will also be getting new top plate and rubber isolator so I can get the front pre-assembled before I put it on.
I was alos thinking of getting new cushion and retainers for the front shocks.
I might replace the bottom bolt that attaches the shock to the lower a-arm. The nut looks fine but the bolt head looks a little ristued and like it might strip when getting removed.

Does this sound like overkill?
I just want to not be digging into this and then get caught up because some bolt or nut stripped or broke.
(story of my life with this truck)

So anyway I moved down to the a-arms, since I will be replacing these as well with shaved a-arms:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03781.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03782.jpg

The Nute and cotter pin are crusted with mud, so I will replace those.
The diagram I have does not show the part right under the a-arm,
Can anyone tell me what it is?
and
If I should or shouldn't replace it while I am in there?

Also while I am here, should I replace the bushings in the a-arms?

With that issue out of the way I decided to continue further under the truck.
As some of you may or may not know, I lost the stock skid plate on my last little outing to the C&D Canal.
Well the reason I lost it is because, like another great wheeler out west that I know, I ZIP Tied the skid on.
The reason I did this is because when I first got the truck, I was young and stupid (which is still up for debate)
and went mudding without really looking at where I was going and got stuck in this pit:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/First%20Time%20Wheelin/0321473-R1-044-20A.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/First%20Time%20Wheelin/0321473-R1-052-24A.jpg

Well, when a full sized Chevy came to pull me out, he pulled me out backwards, cause mud to get shoved between the skid and the truck, causing it to break the blots on the rear of the skid and bending it to give me a temporary shovel under my truck.
Anyway, like I said I was young and stupid and had a good mechanic friend of mine remove the rest of the skid, and since the truck was muddy we didn't really notice anything.
Then, when I bought a used stock skid from localmotion (Matt), and went to put it on I noticed this issue, First is the right side, second is the left:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03785.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03784.jpg

As you can see the left side is broke and bent from its original location.
So my questions are:
1) Should I just heat it bend it back and weld it back in the stock location?
or
2) Should I just cut both and make new mounts that are a little more stout?

I will be getting a BudBuilt eventually which iirc utilizes the stock mounting location of the stock skids so I would like to get this fixed and get another stock skid on for the time being.

Upon taking those pictures today I noticed another issue the you can see in the picture of the bad skid mount, which is some sort of fluid.
Upon further inspection I have found that it is coming from the location where the rod goes into the steering rack:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03786.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03787.jpg

Since I will be replacing the bushings for the rack with ones from energy suspension thanks to
xonetruthcrewx (Colin) (Thanks again man! :thumbup:) I have a few questions:
Should I just replace the rack? (It has 128+K with off road miles mixed in there)
or
Is there an easy way to repair that leak?

The funny thing is I am not loosing any fluid (at least so the reservoir says) or having any steering issues.

Then when looking at the tire rod ends, I noticed the angle on the left seems a bit wierd:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03788.jpg

I do not have a picture of the right side (I took one but the camera must have deleted it) but the angle def looked less severe.
I also noticed if I was to replace the rack I would have to get a new nut and cotter pin as well:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03789.jpg

So what is everyones thoughts on the tire rod ends?
Am I just out of my mind?
or
Did I bend something there too?

Anyway, Now that the front has been picked over I went to the back.
the back seems pretty much fine accept for one issue:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03790.jpg

Thats the right side that covered in what I believe is gear oil.
Now some of you that came over from TOF may know I had to replace both of these back when they blew at 100K
after this trip of me getting my new tires:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Third%20Time%20Wheelin/DSC01967.jpg
(sitting on blocks cause not only did I not have rear brakes due to the issue, I also had no more front brakes, that made for an interesting trip to the shop and lost of metal to metal pain...)

Anyway, back when I was in my accident in October, the old axle had to be replaced.

So my question to everyone is, should I go back to the shop and tell them this is there responsibility and have them fix it on there dime?
or
Should I not waste my time and just get it fixed on my own?

I have already had to have this job done once, and I have had the truck back an have driven maybe 8K since I have got it back in my hands.
The dif breather mod is done and working so something tells me that this is an axle with a lot of miles on it, and the old axle had 20K after the first seal replacement without issue.
I already put 700 in for the first time (both sides had to be done, both inner and outer seal and bearing) I did it and honestly don't want to have to do that again.

Anyway thanks in advance for all your help.
I am just trying to get myself set to get the truck rolling right.

Avy

[Seanz0rz]

alot of those bolts im not sure why you are replacing. i would just clean them very well with brake cleaner and a wire brush

also, dont take it back to the shop, as much hell as they have caused you, save yourself some trouble, shell out the cost yourself.

[YotaFun]

In my past experience with any bolt or nut on this truck is it will either crumple up upon any pressure applied. Or the head will strip. Or the threads will get messed up (happen with on of the screws for my tow hook). And I just don't want to have to deal with it.

Hell I am eve affraid to touch me rear brake line after trying to help my friend do his.

As for the shop, I know they gave me hell but I just don't have 350 to cough up to get it fixed by the mech I want (that dosen't include the tank of gas to get there) and I am not about to take it to the mechanic who 1) lost my keys and 2) thought my power steering pump needed to be fixed when in actuality it was the idler pulley on the same damn system that he had just worked on!

So yeah, sorry for the rant, at work right now and my day got a little crappy after my original post.

[rocktown]

spray it all down with pb blaster like everyday for a week before you do the lift

[YotaFun]

I wish pb was the answer.
Didn't work on the gas tank.

[Cebby]

PB is the answer in all cases :D - you just need to plan far enough in advance with it. Soaking rusty fasteners in PB a week in advance has been my MO for getting things apart, I'm talking 5-7 days of application - and my 4Runner is much older than yours and in worse condition rust-wise.

Helps to have an impact wrench though...or a long ass breaker bar. I use a 4' long pipe sometimes.













OK, not always. A propane torch is also your friend (not around the gas tank though...:))

[YotaFun]

The breaker bar I have.
It helped me break the head off three bolts for the gas tank skid.

Maybe if my truck wasn't a DD the PB blaster will work.

But there are some nuts that are going to be replace, one being the ones that are holding my front o2 sensor on. I have sprayed PB enough to go swimming in it.
And every timw I take any tool to it it just starts to crumble or melt.

Heck, the brand new nuts and bolt that the mech put on when he installed my TRD are already rusted solid.

[Bob98SR5]

rusty nuts:

pb blaster as the guys have said, but also do this: if the nuts are in an area that is not located near flammable material, easy to get to, not near fuel lines, etc, buy one of those benzomatic torches and heat the nuts up a little, let it cool a little and spray w/ pb blaster. since metal expands with heat, it will allow the pb to penetrate into nut caused by the expansion. keep doing this about 2-3 times over the course of a few days.

when backing out the nut, do NOT try to remove the nut as you normally would. in fact, tighten it a little, spray some more pb, then back the nut out a little. what you are trying to do is to break the bond taht the rust has formed with the threads of the nut. that is your goal. the side benefit, of course, is that the nut will come off.

the other thing you might try is to cup brush off the rust off the nut. alot of times, the rust is bonded to the bolt, thereby preventing you from getting a solid grip on the nut.

sounds like a lot of work, but better than to round off the nut! your last two options are to buy one of those grabber-type sockets (i have a set from sears, works well) or using a (get your laughs in now, haha) nut breaker. its a device that goes around the nut and there's a pointed bolt that you twist that splits the nut in half.

bob

[YotaFun]

Wow.
Thank you bob for that long how too.
I will try that on the muffler bolts for the o2 sensor firt and then work around.

Still thinking me driving it around dosen't help the PB blaster (really need to get a commuter car)

So as far as the rust goes, I got plenty answers from everyone which I greatly appreciate.

But


What about my other issues :D

[Bob98SR5]

bent bolts = replace

[YotaFun]

bent bolts = replace


But of course.
I still need to figure out what I am also going to do for my fuel filter.
I tired to get it changed but the mech told me it couldn't be done cause the threads crossed and molded into a new position, fun fun!

[all_terrain17]

You're not the only one with bent control arm brackets. Mine make cool popping noises when the arm moves. Take off the arm and bend the bracket back in place with a crow bar.

[YotaFun]

Well I decided to check things out under the hood today while refueling and noticed this...
First right, then left:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03791.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03792.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03793.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03795.jpg

Look like I have a valve cover leak...
Is this a job I can do myself or am I looking to pay a mechanic?

The left side is good till you look around the oil fill area.
The right is is pretty much all down the side so....

Did I mention how much I love my truck!

[YotaFun]

Bump...
I took the truck back to the body shop.
They hooked me up with this till they fix the rear axle seal:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/The%20Rental/DSC03833.jpg

As for another update, I just got an alternator for the truck, but I think I got one that may not fit.
It is off a 99 Runner, it says its 80 amp...
Will this fit right on or will some modifications need to be done?
Reason I got one is that my current alt is whining and the bat light come on intermittently...

Hopefully got a line on a starter for and steering rack.
Just trying to get her back to somewhat normal..

[YotaFun]

Bump.
still curious if the 99 alt will fit in my 97 just fine.
I remember someone on TOF had a link that helped list computable parts through the year when i asked about the gauge cluster.

[YotaFun]

Well I have the truck back from the shop, buffed cleaned, new axle seal, and they finally got the interior door trim they lost before on!

So hopefully I am done with them for good...

Got a starter on the way now as well as a 1.5" BL (yeah I know that wasn't on the list but I couldn't resist :P)

Still have a few other items to get soon so.

[Seanz0rz]

id do the body lift before the starter, should make it a bit easier to get that starter out!

i noticed some gear oil on the hub piece on the rear axle. looks like its time to replace my seals as well.

[YotaFun]

Yeah.
It should be here sometime tomorrow.
So maybe some time next week.
(better start PB blasting now...)

[YotaFun]

Oh god does she sound precious now...
No more alt whine, I can actually listen to my intake and exhaust without a whine.
I don't have to blare my stereo as loud as before.
My likes when things sound just right.
And for the first time ever the job actually took all of 10 min to do.
First time ever that nothing went wrong with removing and reinstalling...
I hope that becomes a trend...

[YotaFun]

Well an new issue has come about at at time I really don't need it (usually the case).
I don't have a picture at the moment since I am on my phone stuck in traffic limping home.

If anyone who has recently lifted there 3rd gen has the old stock left shock, I NEED it.

You will see why later, but I can tell you right now, I HATE RUST!!!!

[2ndGen]

i have the whole set, you can have them all. i don't know what shipping cost would be, thou.

it's a california vehicle, so no rust, plus, it's a 99.

just let me know what you need.

[YotaFun]

I will take both rear shocks!
That's all that I need!
You rule sir!
If you could PM me that would be great!
(Still stuck in traffic)

[2ndGen]

pm me your address i'll send them out on monday.

[YotaFun]

Remember when I had that squeak issue and I thought it was suspension related but then chopped it up to being a lower valance being loose.
Well I think it still was a suspension component.

Did I mention I HATE RUST!

This is why I need shocks in the back.
This is the right side of the truck (the way it should be...)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00654.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00666.jpg

This is the left side of the truck....
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00655.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00656.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00657.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00638.jpg

The shock stud completely rusted and rubbed itself off...
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00667.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00668.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00669.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00670.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/IMG00671.jpg

Now until I get the shocks from 2ndGen (asked for both since I think the second one might be on it way too...) I am, running the truck without that shock in place.
I took it for a test drive and have decided if I can stick to main roads and keep the truck under 55 I will be okay till the shocks get here....

Though it might go sooner since the right side is working double time now...

I HATE RUST!!!!

[2ndGen]

if i ship thme out on monday via UPS ground, you will receive them on friday.

[YotaFun]

Thats fine.
I have no where to go except to and from school and work, and work is 5 miles away, school a little more, but maybe I will take the bus or carpool with mom, her car actually passed inspection...

[4runnerchevy]

Hey Avy I think you should spend sometime killing rust and cleaning under your truck. You need to clean it, put some rust converter on it, then paint. That way you will only get rust where the converter isn't. :thumbup: I work with exposed machinery, outside, at the beach, so I fight rust every day and I feel for you.

Good luck with that hating rust thing

[YotaFun]

Hey Avy I think you should spend sometime killing rust and cleaning under your truck. You need to clean it, put some rust converter on it, then paint. That way you will only get rust where the converter isn't. :thumbup: I work with exposed machinery, outside, at the beach, so I fight rust every day and I feel for you.

Good luck with that hating rust thing


I will be doing just that, starting in the back of the truck and working my way forward.
I will be getting a pressure washer hopefully by the end of the week, and then in my next couple of pay checks get teh kits for the POR-15 and start from my way back and work forward.

[4runnerchevy]

That should do it ! :thumbup: Hope you kill it for good :thumbup:

[YotaFun]

Might be time to do my BL while I am at it, Make it a little easier to do the frame...
God only knows how rusted those bolts will be...

[YotaFun]

Okay rust guru's I am back with my latest problem.
More RUST!
I need to replace my front o2 sensor.
I think that is the culprit for my now barely 15mpg both city and highway.

I got a code for the sensor way back before I got hit and so I went and bought a new one but when I first tried had of course the rust issue...
so, I just cleared the code and it never came back again.

But since my mileage is suffering I figure I better replace it.
Any Ideas? One Bolt is already pretty much Stripped and as you can see I have been soaking it in PB (along with the rest of the underside of the trunk......)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03853.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03852.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Cuase%20For%20Concern/DSC03850.jpg

[4runnerchevy]

If it were me I would put some good heat on the nuts (your replacing the o2 sensor anyway) and work em back and forth till they gave (either the nut will come loose, stud will come out, or it will break). If it broke then I would weld a new bung on or extract the stud and go.


Oh yeah with your type of exhaust you will never get rid of rust on the exhaust.

[YotaFun]

Sounds like a plan.
You think it would be easier to work on if I actually took the entire cat section out
(it is all bolt on anyway :D)

I just am done with this stuff.
Who's bright idea was it to salt our roads, or not have our trucks coated propperly for them?

Sorry I need to vent a little there...

[4runnerchevy]

Sounds like a plan.
You think it would be easier to work on if I actually took the entire cat section out
(it is all bolt on anyway :D)


Yes it does make it easier.

[YotaFun]

I will try this Saturday while I work on my moms car too...

[YotaFun]

Well a little update.
I can't get that section of exhaust out without cutting it out...
So I will just wait till I have the $$$ to get to it and replace that section and put a highflow cat on.

So here are a little updates:
I got my first Trail carnage at NE Takeover:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/NE%20Takeover%2008/IMG01267.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/NE%20Takeover%2008/IMG01268.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/NE%20Takeover%2008/IMG01269.jpg

Fender flares are back on but no pics as of yet.
Can I tell you putting them on was a PITA!
and I found out that the body shop decided to have fun with some bondo:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/IMG01276.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/IMG01277.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/IMG01278.jpg

Those are the pictures of the holes I drilled since the old one had been what I thought replaced, but seemed to be patched with bondo..

Also while I was getting my budbuilt skid installed I noticed this...
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/IMG01288.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/IMG01283.jpg

It seems that there is gear oil leaking between the transmission and transfer case, as well as on the front output of the transfer case...
I don't know what to do about this.
I am thinking of hitting up the local U-Pull to get a t-case and a new rear drive shaft...

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/IMG01295.jpg

I guess I knocked the grease fitting off at NE Takeover...

Also while getting the budbuilt put on, I was looking over the engine bay and came across this:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/NE%20Takeover%2008/DSC03946.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/NE%20Takeover%2008/DSC03947.jpg

What does it go too?

So I have been thinking lately about Tess.
I have been having some issues with her.
When installing the budbuilt, my friend and I noticed that that it just wasn't aligning right.
We had to make some adjustments to the budbuilt to make it fit right.
Also, when I was putting the fender flares on with the new mudflaps I noticed nothing was lining up right either, and not just on the side that the truck got hit back in October, but on the other side as well.
And I think I mentioned that I found evidence that Tess might have been involved in a front end accident.

So with further thought, and still thinking, I may just keep building Tess as my trail rig, and find a dependable pickup as a parts hauler and DD.
I figure for now I will beat the snot out of the IFS, and when I am ready and have the parts slowly collected I will SAS.
Again this will be a LONG time for now.
For now I will just get her protected and locked, and a proper tire :D

Thats all i have for now,
I had more but I am just too tired and hungry to really think of what else I have to say..

[Seanz0rz]

that zerc fitting on my dshaft was missing when i purchased the vehicle.

that dent isnt too bad.

[YotaFun]

Well the fitting was there before I went on the trip since I did lube the shafts :-)

And I know the dent isn't that bad, but then again consider that it was just replaced last October...

[YotaFun]

Bump for a question.
I know someone selling fabtec adjustable coilovers
They are from a 97' Taco with the 2.7l
Do you think those would fit on the runner?
or preform properly?

[YotaFun]

Also for the guys with same year and auto trans,
Is there a breather for the t-case?
Is so WHERE IS IT!?!?
LOL!

Thanks again!

[iceman601]

Its on the top left of the t-case shifter :D

[thook]

Avy, when using penetrant you also need to tap the fasteners with a hammer. Don't know how much room you have to work with, but a socket over the nut will do. Tap it a bunch...don't wail on it..just tap. You need to break the surface tension of the metal. If you can't get it at that way, tap on the sensor flange and it will set up sympathetic vibration....travel to the studs...and work the penetrant into the threads.

As for the stripped nut, Erwin makes a bolt grip kit sold at O'Reilly. Damn straight they work for rounded off nuts.