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aowRS
04-01-2007, 01:23 PM
Greetings. My first post here, but a long-yime YotaTech & 4x4Wire member.
I intend to replace my original rack (123,000 miles) this week and wanted to see if there were any pointers beyond the obvious. I've already replaced the rack bushings with poly versions, so I was most of the way there at that point.

Is there a specific type of balljoint puller that works better than others?
When refilling the power steering fluid, are there any warnings to heed with respect to bleeding?

I have the shop manual but thought a few of you may have done this already. My reason for replacing the rack is a distinct dead spot in the center of the steering travel that has grown more noticable. I've ruled out the tie rods.

Andreas

bamachem
04-01-2007, 02:25 PM
sorry, but i haven't replaced the rack on mine yet (160k and it's still good!). i'm in the same boat as you as far as changing the poly bushings. it didn't appear to be too terribly bad to go ahead and pull it all the way off when i was doing the bushings, but i could be wrong about that.

i'll see what i can dig up for ya!

Piett
04-01-2007, 02:42 PM
Before you refill the PS reservoir first place the front end on jack stands so that you can turn the wheels lock-to-lock freely, this makes "burping" the air out the system faster. Also take you time filling the reservoir. Add only to the bottom of the indicator then burp out the air., then go and check the level again. At this point to can add more so it is just above the low level and burp again. If you try and too much it tends to overfill the reservoir with foam and makes a mess and you might have to remove excess fluid.

In my experience ball joint pullers despite the different designs are about the same. There isn't really one that is the right fit until you try it out and see how it works in that circumstance. Try and use penetrating oil on the surfaces beforehand.

cheers
Geoff

Lee
04-01-2007, 03:01 PM
im getting a spare rack from a friend who's sas-ing for $75.

please report back on what you find and how it goes for whenever my rack lets go :)

aowRS
04-01-2007, 06:59 PM
Good info - thanks for the replies.

Andreas

BruceTS
04-07-2007, 09:14 AM
Harbor freight has a ball joint puller that fits perfect on our rigs, without damaging the boot. They have two different sizes, use the smaller one....

Albuquerque Jim
04-07-2007, 12:07 PM
Harbor freight has a ball joint puller that fits perfect on our rigs, without damaging the boot. They have two different sizes, use the smaller one....


Can you post a pic of the one you found Bruce?

aowRS
04-07-2007, 06:39 PM
Bruce,
I actually did the work today - took me from 10 am until almost 9 tonight. What a TFPITA! A little bit of rust on things like the steering coupler splines made for some frustrating work.

I did get everything back together properly and believe the alignment is actually pretty close to where it was. I take it in Tuesday for a proper alignment.

Rather than gear pullers or ball joint pullers, I used a Lisle pickle fork set and was able to pop the outers loose with a few determined swings of the 5 lb hammer.

Result? The steering actually feels completely different. Where before every road irregularity would come through to the steering wheel, it actually feels solid and quiet now. The thumps and looseness of before are gone. I did install another set of poly rack mounts while everything was apart. Anyway, I'me very pleased with the outcome, as I had visions of this DIY turning into a disaster! For reference, I installed a new, complete Toyota rack (rack & outer tie rods).

Andreas

MTL_4runner
04-08-2007, 07:16 AM
Andreas, glad all turn out well for you. :thumbup:

Elton
04-09-2007, 02:44 AM
i need to have mine done sometime

Intrepidyota
04-09-2007, 04:46 AM
I did mine in my '98 tacoma a while back and it took a whole day, it was a complete PITA. An impact gun makes it go faster, the only other thing I ran across that made life a LITTLE easier was to disconnect the lines at the pump (and the tie downs on the fender) and just pull them through with the rack, then remove them from the rack once it is out, rather than try to remove them while you are under the truck.

As for burping the air from the system, I had read somewhere, and it worked well for me, that you fill the reservoir, leave the cap off , have the truck on jackstands in the front, and have the engine running, then just slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth, it will run loudly for a bit and there will be bubbles in the fluid, keep filling the reservoir as it drains down, and keep turning until the pump is quiet and there are no more air bubbles.

MTL_4runner
04-09-2007, 05:30 AM
As for burping the air from the system, I had read somewhere, and it worked well for me, that you fill the reservoir, leave the cap off , have the truck on jackstands in the front, and have the engine running, then just slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth, it will run loudly for a bit and there will be bubbles in the fluid, keep filling the reservoir as it drains down, and keep turning until the pump is quiet and there are no more air bubbles.


This was how I used to burp the air out of the system when I worked as a mechanic (turning the steering wheel lock to lock slowly and keeping the steering reservoir full is key in this process). Every vehicle is different and I haven't done a 3rd gen yet (just changed bushings) so I can't help you on the full R&R beyond that.

BruceTS
04-14-2007, 06:12 PM
Harbor freight has a ball joint puller that fits perfect on our rigs, without damaging the boot. They have two different sizes, use the smaller one....


Can you post a pic of the one you found Bruce?


I tried to find it on their website, but couldn't locate it, next time I'm at Harbor Freight, I'll get the part #. It looks like a "U" shape clamp with a threaded bolt.




Bruce,
I actually did the work today - took me from 10 am until almost 9 tonight. What a TFPITA! A little bit of rust on things like the steering coupler splines made for some frustrating work.

I did get everything back together properly and believe the alignment is actually pretty close to where it was. I take it in Tuesday for a proper alignment.

Rather than gear pullers or ball joint pullers, I used a Lisle pickle fork set and was able to pop the outers loose with a few determined swings of the 5 lb hammer.

Result? The steering actually feels completely different. Where before every road irregularity would come through to the steering wheel, it actually feels solid and quiet now. The thumps and looseness of before are gone. I did install another set of poly rack mounts while everything was apart. Anyway, I'me very pleased with the outcome, as I had visions of this DIY turning into a disaster! For reference, I installed a new, complete Toyota rack (rack & outer tie rods).

Andreas


Wow! that took you a while..... I'll be replacing mine tomorrow. Should only take a few hours max... But I guess living on thedry westcoast, things don't rust up as much. I don't like using the pickle fork, it tears the rubber boot, unless you plan to replace them. For me I'll just detach them at the rack.....

BruceTS
04-15-2007, 02:53 PM
Ok I replaced my steering rack today, total time was just under a hour. The way I did it was to jack up the front getting the weight off the front wheels. Took off my skid plates,then I removed the 4 main mounting bolts. Remove both steering shaft bolts, then slide it up out of the way. Unbolted the steering arms at the rack, then pull the rack out aproximately 1 - 2", this gives you the room to unbolt the two lines. Simply pull it out afterwards. I then had to swap the poly bushing to the new rack and then install it reversing the procedures. Since my rig has Long travel, with the heim steering kit, my alignment didn't change, otherwise it would have taken another 20 minutes. refill with ATF and burp the air out.

bflooks
04-27-2007, 03:30 PM
lee, i can help you with yours. it's not hard at all.

Jrun
04-30-2007, 04:21 AM
aowRS may I ask how much you paid for the new rack and where you purchased it?


Thanks.
~J

aowRS
04-30-2007, 04:28 AM
I purchased it from Texas Toyota of Grapevine. I think it was $720 or so and included outer tie rods as well. My contact there is Jim Ubinger.

Andreas

Jrun
04-30-2007, 04:44 AM
I have a leak coming from the green x area do you think I need to replace the whole rack?

http://i19.tinypic.com/4crrjva.jpghttp://http://i19.tinypic.com/4crrjva.jpg

GSGALLANT
04-30-2007, 05:21 AM
There is an oil seal in there that you can replace. It requires removal and disassembly of the rack to do it. Don't buy a new rack!

Jrun
04-30-2007, 11:53 AM
Any idea where to get this seal? I went to Toyota today and the parts guy told me I have to replace the whole rack.

I am getting frustrated. I would love to ust take out the rack and look at whats wrong but who knows what then. My local Dealer never has anything in stock and i would have to order.

GSGALLANT
04-30-2007, 11:57 AM
Let me check my parts list tonight to see if I can get a part number for you. The Toyota guy may be right... maybe they don't supply individual seals. Sort of like they don't supply every bushing for the steering rack. Let me see what I find out tonight.

Jrun
04-30-2007, 12:04 PM
I appreciate it.

GSGALLANT
04-30-2007, 12:56 PM
I appreciate it.

I'm showing an individual part number for that seal on my rack (2002 4Runner). I need more specifics to get a part number for you, though. Post back with the info for your vehicle please (year and model, auto or standard, 4x2 or 4x4, engine size). Better yet, you should create a signature with that info in it so that it's displayed in all your posts automatically.

GSGALLANT
04-30-2007, 06:08 PM
OK. This will be the last time I check for any new posts on here tonight, so here is what I know at this point. Since you posted in this section, I assume you either have a 95-04 Tacoma, or a 96 to 02 4R. I have checked the part number for the steering rack seal for 95-03 Tacomas and 96-02 4R. (My program doesn't go up to 04, so I couldn't confirm that 04 Tacomas had the same part number, but I assume they would.)

The part number for that seal is 90311-19002 if you have a 4x4. If you have a 4x2, it's either that same part number or certain 4x2 trucks have part number 90080-31016 instead. When the parts guy looks it up, it will be part identifier number 44201F on the parts catalog illustration. See image here. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/10599256@N04/923198134/in/set-72157601049000677/) Seal is circled in red. Print the picture and bring it in to the guy at the parts desk. Tell him that you've decided not to buy the $600 steering rack he wants to sell you, but that you will order the $8 seal that you need to fix your rack. (that's my favorite part) :P :clap:

If you wanted to dig deeper into your steering rack and replace all the seals (which is a considerably bigger job), there is also a kit that you can buy. Post back if you need any more info.

Jrun
05-01-2007, 03:13 PM
Thats a huge help. Now I have 180,000 miles so maybe a complete rebuild should happen. Whatch ya think? But it is probably to big of a job for myself.
Are there places that rebuild steering racks?

MTL_4runner
05-01-2007, 04:37 PM
Thats a huge help. Now I have 180,000 miles so maybe a complete rebuild should happen. Whatch ya think? But it is probably to big of a job for myself.
Are there places that rebuild steering racks?


I'm sure there are but unless you did it yourself I'd bet you'd spend almost the same in labor/parts on rebuilding the one you have than if you just bought a remanned rack. Do the simple stuff and if you need to go the full monte, then replace the rack completely (unless you're going to DIY).

GSGALLANT
05-01-2007, 08:40 PM
I'm sure there are but unless you did it yourself I'd bet you'd spend almost the same in labor/parts on rebuilding the one you have than if you just bought a remanned rack. Do the simple stuff and if you need to go the full monte, then replace the rack completely (unless you're going to DIY).

I agree with Jamie. If you're unsure about your capabilities, dismantling the whole rack may be a bit much, and it will cost you more to get yours rebuilt (properly) than to buy another one. Pull the rack out, replace that leaking seal, then re-install the rack. That's simple enough, and you never know... you may get another 100,000 miles from it. Toyota components will sometimes surprise you.

And Jrun, I see you've added a signature... good work. So with a '97 4x4 4R, you're looking for part number 90311-19002.

Jrun
05-02-2007, 04:51 AM
Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it :angel:. I am also going to order the wheelers steering rack bushing kit and do it at the same time.

Hopefully I wont get stuck, cause then I will be asking for your phone number ;)