7MGE swap notes and pics

[corax]

Recently I’ve been asked some questions on my 7MGE Supra engine swap. So I thought I’d put up some information. Originally my rig had a 22-RE, so the information I’m giving is geared to a 22RE-7MGE swap, the 3.0 V6 is a bit different. Also, I swapped in a naturally aspirated engine, the turbo can also be bolted in but uses a different harness, AFM and ECU, plus there is intercooler plumbing to find room for. The biggest difficulty in this swap is finding room in front of the engine since it is an inline 6, but some creative trimming goes a long way. The 7MGE is built typical Toyota rock solid, but many have had problems with headgasket leakage - the problem with the headgasket was insufficient factory torque (52 ft/lbs) and is remedied by increasing the torque to 72 ft/lbs. A completely bullet-proof fix would include an MLS (multi-layer steel) headgasket and ARP head bolts or studs.

Here are some engine numbers for comparison
20R, 2.2L, 90 HP@4800, 122 Ft-Lbs@2400
22R, 2.4L, 96 HP@4800, 129 Ft-Lbs@2800
22RE, 2.4L, 112 HP@4600, 142 Ft-Lbs@3400
22RTE, 2.4L, 135 HP@4800, 173 Ft-Lbs@2800, 6psi
20R/22R Hybrid, Estimated 135-155 HP depending on build
2RZFE, 2.4L, 142 HP@5000, 160 Ft-Lbs@4000
3RZFE, 2.7L, 150 HP@4800, 177 Ft-Lbs@4000
3VZ-E, 3.0L, 150 HP@4800, 180 Ft-Lbs@3400
5VZ-FE,3.4L, 190 HP@4800, 220 Ft-Lbs@3600
5M-GE, 2.7L, 143 HP@5200, 154 Ft-Lbs@4400
7M-GE, 3.0L, 199 HP@6000, 188 Ft-Lbs@3600
7M-GTE,3.0L, 232 HP@5600, 254 Ft-Lbs@3200, 5psi

Since everyone is considering fuel economy these days, I'll also say that my 22RE before the swap got 20mpg and I recently got 19.5 mpg highway cruising 80mph with the 7MGE (15mpg on the trails in Big Bear).

I spent ~ 3 months researching this swap during down time at work and several more months searching for parts in Junkyards. This swap could also be done by buying a running Supra. The engine I got from a JDM importer for $375 off ebay (I picked it up in person to avoid shipping). Total cost for the entire project was less than $1k (can’t beat junkyard prices). The entire swap took me about 2 -3 days once I had all the parts together, however I’ve since tweaked and changed a few things here and there after driving it awhile. The biggest obstacle is fitting a large enough radiator that will still allow for an electric fan, a lesser problem is exhaust routing since it needs to cross over form the passenger side to join the rest of the exhaust on the driver side.

The majority of my research came from SupraCharged.com and the write-up that I liked best came from Andrew Hulse’s 1st gen 4runner swap.
1G 4runner swap pg 1 (http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=186544)
1G 4runner swap pg 2 (http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=274611)
1G 4runner swap pg 3 (http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=274612)

Here’s the thread 4RnrRick had when he swapped in a 7M 4RnrRick’s swap thread (http://www.supracharged.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=298&start=0), though he concluded he would have been happier with a 3.4 swap


The write-ups above go through the actual install fairly well, so I’ll try to avoid repeating too much. What you’ll need to get the 7MGE bolted in:
- Supra bellhousing, clutch fork & throwout bearing retaining spring, clutch slave cylinder & hose - Supra’s used a “W” series transmission which uses the same bellhousing-trans bolt pattern as the “W” series truck trans – you will use your stock “W” series trans and transfer case – use a pre ’89 bellhousing, after this Toyota changed the clutch and pressure plate design, pre ’89 is the standard “fork and throwout” style
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/clutchslave.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/clutchlines.jpg
- 5MGE motor mount brackets – bolt on one position further back on the 7MGE block and allow you to use the stock 22RE rubber engine mounts
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/motormountbracket.jpg
- 7MGE Cressida oil pan and oil pump – the Cressida used a front sump oil pan (vs Supra mid sump which interfered with the IFS front diff) which clears the front tie rod perfectly though you do need to remove the steering damper - also the Supra used a mid sump oil pan, so the dipstick needs to be relocated is using a Supra block, there is already a boss to drill through and it's no big deal using a hand held drill, just make sure you use a drill bit the same size as the dipstick tube, brace the tube to a nearby bolt and seal it up with black RTV
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/oilpan.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/dipstick.jpg

[corax]

- wire harness – I junkyarded mine for $30 and made sure to be careful pulling it out – don’t break connectors pulling them off, don’t pull on wires and when you get to the big connectors that connect the engine harness to the rest of the vehicle (behind dash) leave yourself ~1’ of wire and take both sides of the connector (male and female side – it makes wiring everything together easier)
- ECU – I was able to mount everything in the stock location down in the passenger side kick panel using the 22RE ECU brackets - it's a tight fit, but works nice if you keep wire length to manageable lengths and tuck them up and behind the ECU
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/kickpanel.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/ECU.jpg
- Vane Airflow Meter to match your engine (smog will want everything to be the same year or newer as your vehicle, but they really have no visual way of checking)
- igniter and ignition coil - I moved the ignition coil to the passenger side so I could use a shorter coil wire
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/coilandignitor.jpg
- Injector Resistor (leave this connected to the harness when you get it at the junkyard)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/injresistor.jpg
- use the factory throttle cable and fab a simple cable holder –or- use the factory Supra cables, setup and linkages
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/throttlelinkage.jpg
- factory 22RE fuel pump works fine, no upgrade needed, fuel filter will be factory mounted to the 7MGE block on driver side – need to bend fuel lines to run gas from the passenger side to driver side
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/fuellines.jpg
- the 7M mechanical fan can not be used, so an electric fan is in order. I looked for a thin electric fan and found that you can get one with decent CFM under 3" thick. I wired an electric thermo switch and an extra sensor to warn of possible overheating (220* puts the gauge about 3/4 of the way to the red) - the threads are 3/8" NPT - the 3 hole t-stat housing was sourced from a 7MGTE (turbo) and had the 220* sensor already in it
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/t-stathousing.jpg
- I was able to reuse the 22RE P/S pump by moving the reservoir down on the inner fender a bit and having the 7M pulley center bore machined to .710" and hand filing a keyway (7M uses a ribbed belt) - further the 7M A/C bracket needs to be cut up a bit and a simple bracket fabbed up to adapt the pump to the A/C bracket, I also made a nother bracket to brace the pump in an attempt to reduce vibration and bracket flex under belt tension
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/psreservoir.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/pspumpbracket.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/pspumpbracket2.jpg

[corax]

- for the exhaust I bought 2 tight radius u-bent pieces from Jegs and cut off bits of angle as I needed them to route the exhaust under the Cressida oil pan (with heat shields on top of the pipe to keep heat away from the oil pan) – also try to keep the catalytic converter as close to the engine as possible so it can get hot enough to pass emissions – another option would be to run the exhaust down the passenger side and cross it over under the t-case, there is just enough room to fish the pipe through a hole between the t-case / crossmember / frame rail, this setup would also allow you to mount the cat converter just after the exhaust manifold (while this routing would be easier, I didn’t like it for a couple reasons)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/exhman.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/exhaust.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/catconv.jpg
- firewall will need to be clearanced slightly for the EGR valve on the driver side and for the 90* coolant hose on the passenger side (hose barely touches metal if not clearanced)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/EGRclearance.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/coolanthose.jpg
- relocated battery from passenger to driver side, I used the factory alternator wire to get power from the new battery location to the original fuse box (I later ran an additional 10 ga wire and added a 120 amp manual reset circuit breaker for accident safety)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/battery.jpg
- the actual wiring of everything is in this link - 7M Wiring (http://www.supracharged.com/tech/wiring/index.shtml) - if you are comfortable with a soldering iron and 12V electrical, there’s nothing to it.

[corax]

*edit* additional pics and content added

[4runnerchevy]

Nice job, did you ever get smog problems worked out ? (maybe you already told us) I would love to see it smogged. When I did my buddies we were able to get rid of all the EGR stuff. It gave us a lttle more room to play. We also used the existing 86.5 radiator/+ 2 10" electric fans. Have had no heating problems yet. He doesn't have smog issues cause his trucks an 1985 deisel rig.

Yours looks as clean as it gets :thumbup:

[corax]

Nice job, did you ever get smog problems worked out ? (maybe you already told us) I would love to see it smogged. When I did my buddies we were able to get rid of all the EGR stuff. It gave us a lttle more room to play. We also used the existing 86.5 radiator/+ 2 10" electric fans. Have had no heating problems yet. He doesn't have smog issues cause his trucks an 1985 deisel rig.

Yours looks as clean as it gets :thumbup:


Thanks for the :thumbup:

I had an appointment for the smog ref on the 1st before I was going to head up to Big Bear, but I got a phone call from BAR that morning saying that the college had a power outage and they weren't doing inspections. So I called a few days later to reschedule and got a message that said "due to the current budget crisis, this office will be closed until further notice" . . . I just can't win. It's passed all the smog ref visual and functional and runs like a champ. The numbers were much better last time after moving the cat closer so it would get to temp and light off quicker, so I took out my worn MagnaFlow high flow cat (I ran it with a heavy misfire a couple times after washing down the engine, likely damaged it that way) and re-did my entire exhaust with an Ebay cat that has more surface area and a bigger body (better scrubbing). I also redid cat back pipe and tailpipe. The exhaust smells much better now and I'm sure it'll pass once I can get it in again. I had to install the EGR after the engine was already installed - took me nearly 12 hours over two days. I'll be sure to post the numbers when I get them.

I was thinking of trying a factory V6 radiator, but when I installed the Griffin I trimmed sheet metal and the mounting holes off to move it forward to make room for a puller fan. So now I'm kinda stuck unless I get the urge to weld in new sheet metal. I also think this has a bit to do with why I'm overheating
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/coolantleak.jpg
that crusty trail leads right up to the headgasket and gets damp after I've been running it awhile (no fluid mixing). I think the damage got done by a cheap fan would intermittently quit while towing 3,500 lbs cross country. Luckily I have a used head that I just got done polishing the intake and exhaust on. Gotta get ARP studs yet, have the exhaust seats touched up (pitting) and surface the head, I'll probably skip the MLS headgasket.

[4runnerchevy]

Believe me I know about smog woes. I hope our local ref is not closed cause we have a date in September.

Good Luck

[Seanz0rz]

one of the cleanest swaps ive ever seen! especially with a more complex modern Japanese engine.

hope you get your emission stuff dealt with soon. look forward to seeing you again before you leave cali.

[mYnAmEiSmUdD]

Thank you!!! Very nice work. :clap:

[fustercluck]

Man, Corax...that is exactly what I want to do to my runner. Lately, I haven't had the time though. If I promise not to talk politics while you do it, will you come and swap one in for me? :hillbill:

[DHC6twinotter]

I got a chance to ride in this truck back at the Yosemite trip. Super nice 4Runner, and very well done. :thumbup:

[4runnerchevy]

Saw the corax beast today, on his way through Santa Cruz, nice job and nice people.

[corax]

Thank you!!! Very nice work. :clap:


any questions, let me know . . .



If I promise not to talk politics while you do it, will you come and swap one in for me? :hillbill:


What fun would that be without some good conversation? The real fun is in the debate, I've often had long drawn out conversations (with ex's mostly) arguing a position I didn't believe in just for fun :stir:.

If we were coming anywhere near Utah on our cross-country trip I'd make sure to drop by, but it's not in the cards this time



Saw the corax beast today, on his way through Santa Cruz, nice job and nice people.


thanks much man :D it was too bad your beast was getting reconstructive surgery . . . I'm sure it'll be bigger and badder when it's done

[strykersd]

Hey Keith, I've been considering doing the swap in my 4runner and I had a few questions I wanted to ask you. Do you run air conditioning with your swap? And have you found a way to install the steering stabilizer? Thanks

[corax]

Hey Keith, I've been considering doing the swap in my 4runner and I had a few questions I wanted to ask you. Do you run air conditioning with your swap? And have you found a way to install the steering stabilizer? Thanks


No air conditioning yet, though I have had it in mind to go junkyarding for a Honda A/C compressor (correct pulley, correct outlet direction) - but then again, there's not much room in front of the radiator for an A/C condensor anyway. Supposedly a few have been able to, but it would be a real tight fit.

No steering stabilizer either, though I can't tell the difference. If you did want to run a stabilizer it would be easy to get a Rancho or similar universal mount (the type that uses u-bolts to mount on the linkage) and just weld two tabs to the frame to mount the other end.

[corax]

Thought I'd update this thread with my final solution for cooling this swap, it is a bit overkill but hasn't given me any problems to date -

A few months back I found a double row, dual pass Ron Davis radiator at a flea market for $25 (too good of a deal to pass up). Though I wasn't sure if I could use it, a few weeks of staring at it got me going on how to fit it into an already tight engine bay.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4014.jpg
(2 of the fins were previously repaired, but they look solid)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4015.jpg

Here's how it works. A dual-pass horizontal-flow radiator moves coolant across the top half of the radiator on the first pass, then directs the coolant across the lower portion of the radiator face for a second pass. One reason this works is because the velocity of the coolant roughly doubles when the coolant is forced to travel across half as many tubes per pass. This creates turbulence in the tubes, exposing more coolant to the radiator tube walls and improving heat transfer. It also provides a bit of a restriction to coolant flow, reducing the overall flow rate of the cooling system and allowing the coolant to spend more time in the radiator. I think one of my problems with the single core Griffin was that it flowed too fast with this engine - the coolant didn't have enough time to really cool as it passed through the radiator (but that's just speculation).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/dualpassdia.jpg

I enlarged the radiator opening a bit so I could move the radiator as far forward as possible.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4229.jpg
Here it is all mocked up in its final position. I already had the lower brackets made (just a "J-hook" to cradle the bottom of the radiator), so I just needed to bend and fit the brackets to their final position.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4230.jpg

The top hose/inlet is a simple 1.5" neck that the hose slides on to. The lower hose/outlet though is a 3/4" NPT bung . . . so I got a copper 3/4" NPT fitting, trimmed the overall length down and soldered a "street elbow" on to it. I also tapped the bung a bit deeper so that the copper fitting would thread all the way in (no threads showing). The outlet on my fitting is now 1.25" - the stock lower radiator hose is 1.375" - so there sohould be no real restriction that I need to worry about.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4233.jpg
top view of it mounted with the plumbing all connected - I found a formed hose that I could cut/splice onto the stock lower radiator hose and used a universal flex hose for the top
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4303.jpg
Home Depot pipe hanger to hold the long lower radiator hose away from anything it might rub against
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4302.jpg

Previously I was using a 14" fan on my single core Griffin radiator. I could fit one 12" or 2 9" fans with the new setup (not enough room between the radiator and the front cross member for the 14"). I did some math on how much coverage the fans would give on the radiator:
1x14" fan = 153 sq.in.
1x12" fan = 113 sq.in.
2x9" fans = 127 sq.in
So 2x9" fans it is then - combined they pull 22 amps when they first start spinning, but settle down to 10 amps at full speed. Even though I'm stepping down in fan size I should be golden since the overall cooling capacity is increasing - won't find out till I have to pull the trailer again, but I can say that with this radiator the fans don't cycle on nearly as much.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/cooling/100_4340.jpg