Robinhood4x4
08-06-2008, 07:21 PM
I saw this over on another forum. (http://www.arizonashooting.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=51755&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a)
1984 Toyota 4x4 pickup, it was my daily driver up until last week.
It’s powered by a 2rzfe 2.4 liter DOHC engine out of a 2wd Toyota Tacoma, it generates about 50 horsepower and 40 lbs of torque more than the stock 22r mill. It also has fuel injection, and gets about 20-22 mpg versus the 15 or 16 that the stocker would get. The engine has about 70,000 miles on it, the chassis is at 280k, none of the drivetrain components are original, they have been rebuilt or replaced with lower mileage units.
Engine management is megasquirt v. 3.0 with the megasquirt extra firmware upgrade. This allows you to not deal with OBD-II issues, and gives you a nearly limitless upgrade path. You can program it using any computer with a USB port(I’ll include the cable and USB adapter), the software is open source and there is plenty of support if you get lost. Want to turbo it? No problem, as long as you keep the boost under 14 psi it’s fine, if you upgrade the MAP sensor(5 solder joints and ad a few minutes of time) and you can run as much as you want depending on which you go with. Want to have a separate file to pass emissions with flying colors, and another for better drivability and fuel economy? That’s what I did; it takes about 20 seconds to swap between them with a laptop.
The issue it has is that I goofed up and fried the ignition driver transistor on the megasquirt board(which I’ve replaced, the megasquirt box runs perfectly) and that somehow goofed up something down the line, probably the coil, but I’m not sure and I don’t want to screw with it. It starts, and idles rough, but it revs just fine.
This would make a great rock crawler and dedicated trail rig. Slap some propane on it, an MSD box, and a good cage, and you’d be good to go without a lot of effort(and no screwing around with laptops either.)
The good:
5.29 gears
Detroit locker in the rear
Detroit true trac in the front
Lifted with some stiff as hell springs that should probably be replaced, the rears are now unevenly settled.
High steer, all pro arms with trail gear everything else, the power steering works great
6k ramsey winch, it's ugly, slow, and noisy, but it works and has new wire on it
2rzfe swap from a 1996 tacoma, way more power, fuel injected, ~20-22 mpg only about 70,000 miles on the engine
Clutch has about 10k on it
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc all new 10k ago
Nearly new 35" goodyear wrangler all terrains on the front
Megasquirt v3.0 with MS-extra firmware running the engine
Ford van 22 gallon fuel tank, lots of range with good clearance
The interior is in pretty nice shape overall with bucket seats from who knows what.
Clear AZ title
Nice cross bed tool box, husky brand I believe.
Comes with a spare set of factory birfs, and some misc. parts that I've got laying around.
The A/C system was just gone through, everything was flushed, all o-rings are 134A compliant. It was only after I got everything together that I found out that I was sold the wrong compressor. It currently has a 10PA17C from a camry instead of the 10PA15C that it should have. The 17C sits too far forward for the belt to align. A good used taco compressor is only $60 or so, and requires six bolts to install. Obviously, an evac and recharge would be required, but the system is currently charged and not leaking at all.
The bad:
The ignition driver on the megasquirt box fried due to me inverting the signal accidentally, this fried the coil in the dizzy. It starts, and it barely idles, but it misses. I replaced the ignition driver in the megasquirt box, but the rest of the ignition system needs to be inspected.
To be honest, ditching megasquirt and going propane would probably be the best bet. It could be as simple as a $50 coil, or an $8 ignition driver, I haven't messed with it just yet.
At some point in the past this truck was rolled and got a salvage title in Nevada(the AZ one is clear), apparently the roof was replaced on the cab and the job was done poorly, so there are some cracks in the bondo that was used on the A-pillars.
Needs a new tranny mount, a perfect excuse for an aftermarket crossmember setup.
It's got a bit of rust through the bed under the bed liner.
The exhaust really needs to be redone, it works but you have to put an extension on it for the emissions guys to check it.
The rear tires(35x12.5r15 BFG AT) have decent tread, but are dry and should be replaced.
It's an excellent base to do a trail rig off of, I've just grown tired of dealing with it and am passing the torch. I just need to buy something I don't have to worry about and focus more on more important stuff.
Priced to move at $2300, pretty firm but could entertain trade offers.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v171/deathray187/yoter.jpg
If you want it propane ready and without megasquirt and wideband, I’ll take $2k.
1984 Toyota 4x4 pickup, it was my daily driver up until last week.
It’s powered by a 2rzfe 2.4 liter DOHC engine out of a 2wd Toyota Tacoma, it generates about 50 horsepower and 40 lbs of torque more than the stock 22r mill. It also has fuel injection, and gets about 20-22 mpg versus the 15 or 16 that the stocker would get. The engine has about 70,000 miles on it, the chassis is at 280k, none of the drivetrain components are original, they have been rebuilt or replaced with lower mileage units.
Engine management is megasquirt v. 3.0 with the megasquirt extra firmware upgrade. This allows you to not deal with OBD-II issues, and gives you a nearly limitless upgrade path. You can program it using any computer with a USB port(I’ll include the cable and USB adapter), the software is open source and there is plenty of support if you get lost. Want to turbo it? No problem, as long as you keep the boost under 14 psi it’s fine, if you upgrade the MAP sensor(5 solder joints and ad a few minutes of time) and you can run as much as you want depending on which you go with. Want to have a separate file to pass emissions with flying colors, and another for better drivability and fuel economy? That’s what I did; it takes about 20 seconds to swap between them with a laptop.
The issue it has is that I goofed up and fried the ignition driver transistor on the megasquirt board(which I’ve replaced, the megasquirt box runs perfectly) and that somehow goofed up something down the line, probably the coil, but I’m not sure and I don’t want to screw with it. It starts, and idles rough, but it revs just fine.
This would make a great rock crawler and dedicated trail rig. Slap some propane on it, an MSD box, and a good cage, and you’d be good to go without a lot of effort(and no screwing around with laptops either.)
The good:
5.29 gears
Detroit locker in the rear
Detroit true trac in the front
Lifted with some stiff as hell springs that should probably be replaced, the rears are now unevenly settled.
High steer, all pro arms with trail gear everything else, the power steering works great
6k ramsey winch, it's ugly, slow, and noisy, but it works and has new wire on it
2rzfe swap from a 1996 tacoma, way more power, fuel injected, ~20-22 mpg only about 70,000 miles on the engine
Clutch has about 10k on it
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc all new 10k ago
Nearly new 35" goodyear wrangler all terrains on the front
Megasquirt v3.0 with MS-extra firmware running the engine
Ford van 22 gallon fuel tank, lots of range with good clearance
The interior is in pretty nice shape overall with bucket seats from who knows what.
Clear AZ title
Nice cross bed tool box, husky brand I believe.
Comes with a spare set of factory birfs, and some misc. parts that I've got laying around.
The A/C system was just gone through, everything was flushed, all o-rings are 134A compliant. It was only after I got everything together that I found out that I was sold the wrong compressor. It currently has a 10PA17C from a camry instead of the 10PA15C that it should have. The 17C sits too far forward for the belt to align. A good used taco compressor is only $60 or so, and requires six bolts to install. Obviously, an evac and recharge would be required, but the system is currently charged and not leaking at all.
The bad:
The ignition driver on the megasquirt box fried due to me inverting the signal accidentally, this fried the coil in the dizzy. It starts, and it barely idles, but it misses. I replaced the ignition driver in the megasquirt box, but the rest of the ignition system needs to be inspected.
To be honest, ditching megasquirt and going propane would probably be the best bet. It could be as simple as a $50 coil, or an $8 ignition driver, I haven't messed with it just yet.
At some point in the past this truck was rolled and got a salvage title in Nevada(the AZ one is clear), apparently the roof was replaced on the cab and the job was done poorly, so there are some cracks in the bondo that was used on the A-pillars.
Needs a new tranny mount, a perfect excuse for an aftermarket crossmember setup.
It's got a bit of rust through the bed under the bed liner.
The exhaust really needs to be redone, it works but you have to put an extension on it for the emissions guys to check it.
The rear tires(35x12.5r15 BFG AT) have decent tread, but are dry and should be replaced.
It's an excellent base to do a trail rig off of, I've just grown tired of dealing with it and am passing the torch. I just need to buy something I don't have to worry about and focus more on more important stuff.
Priced to move at $2300, pretty firm but could entertain trade offers.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v171/deathray187/yoter.jpg
If you want it propane ready and without megasquirt and wideband, I’ll take $2k.