elocker and axle stuff [Archive] - UltimateYota.com Forums

slosurfer

09-16-2008, 11:44 AM

Edit: This started as a parts request but it has gotten somewhat "techy" so it was moved to a more appropriate section. I'm going to change this up a little bit, to include some things that may or may not be missing from all the great writeups. This is not going to be a writeup by any means, just a little added tech for those searching to do this.

I am putting an elocker in my '93 4runner:

Parts I needed:

elocker diff gasket (thanks MarcP)
2 111mm axle studs
2 8mm lock washers
2 8mm nuts (I got these at Marlin Elocker Parts (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm).) You can also get them from NTP, I just went with Marlin due to already getting some other stuff from them.)
2 rear axle seals (I got the Special Rear Axle Seals from Marlin Crawler (http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=31311.0), so we'll see how they do. They were only a few cents more over the regulars.)

Drill and tap set? Need to find out exactly what size tap. I know it is 8mm but need to find out for sure the thread pitch.

Already, I have seen something that isn't covered in the writeups, and that is for those that have the ABS sensor in the top of the third member. You will lose ABS. We will see what works to make sure that the ABS light does not come on. Paddlenbike has promised to help me figure this one out once I get it all buttoned back up. The reason for this not being covered, is that most writeups are on 3rd gen 4runners which have ABS sensors at each wheel or are on older axles that don't have ABS.

4x4mike

09-16-2008, 12:39 PM

Looks right when you compare it to Bob's wriet up
http://www.4runners.org/writeups/elocker/

Toyota does update part numbers so they may change. One source I use to check prices and part numbers is toyotapartsales.com

Seanz0rz

09-16-2008, 12:40 PM

also make sure you get INNER axle seals...

Bob98SR5

09-16-2008, 02:44 PM

use the sealant, not the gasket. use the paper gasket for template purposes.

slosurfer

09-16-2008, 04:30 PM

Looks right when you compare it to Bob's wriet up

:laugh: I copied and pasted those right from his writeup.

use the sealant, not the gasket. use the paper gasket for template purposes.

:thumbup: That's what I was planning.

also make sure you get INNER axle seals...

Do I need inner and outers? :headscratch:

Seanz0rz

09-16-2008, 04:36 PM

the inner seal goes in the axle tube, the outer is involved with the axle bearings and is only replaced if you are doing bearings. i think all you want to do is the inner seals(the ones the axles slide into on the housing).

slosurfer

09-16-2008, 04:41 PM

Thanks Sean, after looking at it, I see what you are talking about.

slosurfer

10-17-2008, 10:56 AM

bump...

Seanz0rz

10-17-2008, 10:59 AM

what are you doing about a wiring harness/control switch? most of the options are pretty pricey.

for a small fee ill make one for you!

slosurfer

10-17-2008, 11:12 AM

hmmm... I've got the little harness that connects to the motor. So I could....

go with the inchworm kit $55

or 12voltguy and get a one piece harness with a cool panel (match the one I just got at Pismo for a winch) $150

or ORS $150

or check out what you have :)

PM me what your setup is, I'm interested. :)

corax

10-17-2008, 06:07 PM

I thought there was also a cable shift alternative if you are interested . . .

slosurfer

10-17-2008, 06:24 PM

Yes, Downey makes a cable shift. Hard to find reviews on it.

Looks like Sean and Bob, got me covered on the wiring. Thanks guys!!!! :thumbup:

Just need a few parts from NTP and I'm good to go. Pulling my thirds this weekend. :D

Marc P

10-17-2008, 07:40 PM

slosurfer

10-21-2008, 07:11 PM

Bump for my parts request!!!!!!!

Also, since my third that I just pulled has the ABS sensor in the top of the third member and the elocker third does not have a spot for it, what have you all done with your ABS sensor? :headscratch: I think this mainly applies to 2nd gens as the 3rd gens seem to have the sensor in the axle housing near the backing plates. I've read a ton of "writeups" and they all seem to leave this detail out.

Robinhood4x4

10-21-2008, 09:50 PM

Mine is zip tied to the frame rail somewhere. I need to figure out the abs light now, it's kinda annoying.

slosurfer

10-21-2008, 10:02 PM

paddlenbike, said he'd figure it out for us
:thumbup:

Seanz0rz

10-21-2008, 10:02 PM

Having the e-locker will make your life much easier. I thought about the Downey deal for about 5 seconds.....if the motor was bad on the locker it may be a good idea, but otherwise I think its a bad idea.

for me, if the motor ever died on the trail, i could go in and remove the actuator motor, slide the collar over with a screw driver and reinstall the motor (to keep the dirt out). not ideal but a good thing to know if you really really needed the locker and the motor went out.

slosurfer

10-24-2008, 08:51 PM

Lance, thanks for moving this thread. :thumbup:

Since this was getting techy and due to the ABS issue, I changed the first post and this is now for tech.

What tap size do I need to get? I know it is 8mm but what is the thread pitch?

Seanz0rz

10-24-2008, 09:00 PM

M8-1.25

slosurfer

10-24-2008, 09:04 PM

M8-1.25

Thanks! :thumbup: Did you get your package yet?

Seanz0rz

10-24-2008, 09:10 PM

yes i did, thank you very much. hope to have it sent back to you by the end of the week.

slosurfer

10-24-2008, 09:16 PM

sweet :D I've got some :wrenchin: to do.

slosurfer

10-28-2008, 04:45 PM

Okay, got the welding done, and installed my marlin rear inner seals. The marlin seals are pretty cool and idiot proof, I'll get pics up in a little bit.

I now need to drill and tap the two long studs. I would like to drill them with the third installed to insure I get them in the correct spot. My drill bit is a little short and I heard you can remove the actuator. I removed the bolts that look like they hold it on and it doesn't budge. Am I missing something or do I just need to tap it with a hammer? I think I removed 3 12mm bolts (one of those actually just holds the little cover on), am I missing something?

Edit: searched around some more and it looks like I just need to pry on it a little bit from a few sides. I just really did not want to force it without knowing for sure.

slosurfer

10-28-2008, 07:06 PM

Here are the Marlin rear axle seals. They have a lip on them, so that you won't drive them in too far and fits perfectly in the groove so that all is flush on the housing. They also have the built in spring to help hold the seals shape, unlike the seals that I removed.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_8356.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_8355.jpg

and the OEM one for comparison:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_8358.jpg

Robinhood4x4

10-28-2008, 09:41 PM

Well, are you done yet??? :flipoff:

Maybe you've already read my method for locating the holes, but here it is again.

With the third member on, use a drill bit that's as close to the size of the holes in the 3rd member as possible. The less slop between the bit and the hole, the better. Drill just enough to put a dimple into the housing, about 1/4" in diameter. This will help the final drill bit stay centered when you drill. This method does the same thing as using a transfer punch.

slosurfer

10-28-2008, 10:02 PM

:flipoff: :laugh:

Yeah, I'm either going to use that method or the transfer punch. I just need to remove the actuator so that I can fit my drill and bit in there.

This all goes at a painfully slow pace when I'm doing it all myself (for the first time) and in my free time. :flipoff: Plus after I finish this, I get to try my hand at the aussie locker install in the front diff. :shake: It's supposed to rain this weekend, so it's not looking so good for getting this done before Surf n Turf. :( Either that, or I'll be breaking in my new gears by driving up and down the beach. :laugh:

Marc P

10-28-2008, 10:07 PM

I was able to keep the motor on, and just drill enough to get it started. I then removed the 3rd and finished the holes.

Seanz0rz

10-28-2008, 10:17 PM

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/hamiltoncomputers/Picture.jpg

nearly done...

slosurfer

10-28-2008, 10:26 PM

Dude! You rock!!!! I owe you a giant case of Diet Dr. Pepper :D

Seanz0rz

10-28-2008, 10:56 PM

HAHAHA, yea i think in every picture i have there is a can somewhere...

and nah, you dont owe me anything. just put on an awesome pismo next year... haha.

Robinhood4x4

10-29-2008, 06:45 AM

Either that, or I'll be breaking in my new gears by driving up and down the beach. :laugh:

That's what I did. Brand new gears front and rear. Half my break in was the drive down from the bay area. Needless to say, I took it easy that year.

4x4mike

10-29-2008, 09:04 AM

Here are the Marlin rear axle seals. They have a lip on them, so that you won't drive them in too far and fits perfectly in the groove so that all is flush on the housing. They also have the built in spring to help hold the seals shape, unlike the seals that I removed.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_8355.jpg

Looks just like the GM rear output seal (color, spring, seal and all) from my old truck. Actually given the sizes it probably is.

slosurfer

10-29-2008, 10:05 PM

Mike, you're probably right.

Sean, my switch arrived today! Here are pics so you can know what I got. The toggle has a blue led built into the tip.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_4772.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_4775.jpg

Jack, thought this was awesome! (Which is exactly why this switch will be placed to the left of the steering wheel, where there is no chance of him playing with it while we are on the move. :D ) April even said that she would like a switch like that for her truck. :laugh:

4x4mike

10-29-2008, 10:29 PM

Mike, you're probably right.

Output shaft seal
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/ry3D400.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/2.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/3.jpg
The old one after I got it out
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4.jpg
It was a Timken part
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/5.jpg

Seanz0rz

10-29-2008, 11:13 PM

nice switch! should work perfect with my harness which is nearly done. might get to test it tomorrow, finishing touches on it fri/sat, and ill mail it out monday.

just a confirmation on the switch: there are 3 connectors. one should be marked hot or power, another marked load, and a third marked ground. is this correct?

Marc P

10-30-2008, 05:54 AM

Hmmmm...that switch looks familiar and so does the sticker

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b251/MarcP1971/e-lock025.jpg

Get er done Chris!!

slosurfer

10-30-2008, 07:01 AM

Sean, you are correct, there are 3 connectors labeled power, acc, and ground.

Marc, yeah, I chose not to go the panel route this time. Mainly because of $$ but also to save a little space. Once I'm done adding stuff (winch, lights, etc...), I'd like to have him build me a single panel.

slosurfer

11-02-2008, 05:34 PM

Cruiser coils are a bitch to get in!!! :laugh: They are so dang long. Got one in by myself and had to call my friend Brian over to help me get the other one in. Had to undo the upper control arm of the side we were working on in order to get it in (had to do the same on the other side I did by myself).

Still need to hook up the brake lines, install the axles (wish I had the $$ to pick up some of the Poly Performance ones), figure out the ABS issue, blead the brakes, fill with gear oil, make sure everything is torqued correctly, and run the wiring.

Then to the front!!! :laugh: Install aussie locker, swap out cv axles, and reinstall the diff.

Going to be close getting it done for Surf n Turf.

slosurfer

11-03-2008, 08:29 AM

Okay, one more thing I didn't know. :laugh: Apparently, 2nd gen 4runners can not reinstall their rear swaybar due to the elocker actuator being in the way.

How about you 3rd gens, were you able to reinstall your swaybar? Does anyone have a pic of a 3rd gen swaybar (rear)? If anyone has one sitting around, I may try to get some measurements from you.

Seanz0rz

11-03-2008, 08:37 AM

i never bothered to put mine back on, was thinking about doing it this weekend, ill see if it fits.

slosurfer

11-03-2008, 08:42 AM

my swaybar hugs the diff so tight, that you actually have to remove it just to pull the 3rd, maybe the 3rd gen's take into account that some had the elocker and made room for it.

If you could take a pic of your bar that would be sweet.

Seanz0rz

11-03-2008, 08:52 AM

haha yea i remember mine being pretty tight, il have to find it, i have NO clue where it is.

slosurfer

11-03-2008, 09:23 AM

I found a couple pics online, I just need to snap a pic of mine now. April broke my camera!!! :shake:

Seanz0rz

11-03-2008, 05:08 PM

April broke my camera!!! :shake:

sure you didnt just turn it sideways!!!!!!!!

slosurfer

11-03-2008, 05:25 PM

she spiked it like she just scored the winning touchdown :laugh:

Seanz0rz

11-03-2008, 07:13 PM

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/hamiltoncomputers/elockerharness.jpg

i love you very much chris...

pending testing, its ready to go!

slosurfer

11-03-2008, 08:09 PM

:clap: Sean, you rock!!! :thumbup:

Bob98SR5

11-04-2008, 09:59 PM

slosurfer

11-05-2008, 01:12 AM

Bob, thanks for the offer. I think I'll hold off on it though. I need to look better at mine, I may even be able to use a spacer on mine. I also need to find a 3rd gen to crawl under to see what the differences are as far as mounting, etc...

slosurfer

11-05-2008, 06:54 AM

I don't have a pic of mine yet, but here is a pic of a 3rd gen:

Top is the OEM and the bottom is an Addco:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/sbrear.jpg

The center on mine is shaped like a bell curve instead of going up, flat, then going back down. That's where it runs into a problem, since it doesn't leave room for the actuator.

Sean (or anyone else for that matter), when you find yours, could you measure across from end to end where the links will attach (top on the pic) and across the bottom before it bends up to where the links attach (bottom on the pic from 90* bend to 90* bend).

I'll try to get pics of mine with April's camera.

slosurfer

11-22-2008, 06:52 AM

Mine is zip tied to the frame rail somewhere. I need to figure out the abs light now, it's kinda annoying.

Just a thought, the way you have it, do you have the magnetic sensor part up against metal. I put mine up and made sure that the magnet was touching metal. So far, just turning the 4runner on in the driveway, my ABS isn't staying on. I wonder if yours is on because it isn't getting a "signal" since the magnet isn't close to metal.

slosurfer

11-23-2008, 03:34 PM

She's alive!!! I took it for a drive today and broke in the new rear gears (front was a used 5.29 diff, so those didn't need to be broken in). Tested out the front locker a little bit, turning tight circles in a dirt lot. Mainly wanted to get the gear oil running through it and to insure it was locking and unlocking. It's been awhile since I've driven it so it's hard to tell what difference the 5.29's have made and I was just driving through town anyways. The elocker will get tested once I get the harness installed this next week, but at least it's mobile now.

Observations:

Need to figure out a rear swaybar. The 2nd gen 4runner swaybar will definately not fit. I don't like it without it on there. It was really bad when I first took off because I forgot to adjust my Rancho adjustables and they were still on #1 which is uber soft. Not as bad now that I have them cranked to #9, but I want to get a swaybar on there. Need to find someone with a third gen and see if I can measure theirs.

ABS light did not come on, so it is fine ziptied up to the frame. That was nice that it turned into a non-issue. Later, I may experiment with just how much of that I can remove. Would be nice to not have it up there at all.

Dumb question alert: Do I need to have the motor running when I bleed the brakes since it has the vaccuum assist? I think I need to rebleed them but it's hard to tell. I'm not sure how good April was doing at pumping them. :laugh: I was sure thankful though that she helped me. :)

corax

11-23-2008, 03:49 PM

Need to find someone with a third gen and see if I can measure theirs.

just find one in the local mall parking lot - for how long it will take you to measure, no one should notice and raise heck

Dumb question alert: Do I need to have the motor running when I bleed the brakes since it has the vaccuum assist?

Shouldn't matter at all. The lazy way of bleeding brakes (which has worked fine for me in the past) is to "gravity bleed" them -- on level ground with the reservoir cap off, crack open the bleeders one at a time in the correct order with a drain pan to catch the fluid - gravity will make the fluid drain out and since the lines and hoses are small enough (and fluid viscosity thick enough) any bubbles will just go along for the ride and out into the drain pan

slosurfer

11-23-2008, 04:00 PM

Gravity bleeding sounds like my cup o' tea. :)

So, you basically do it just like normal, minus the bored looking wife in the driverseat?

slosurfer

11-23-2008, 04:04 PM

Here are some comparison shots of swaybars.

3rd gen OEM on top, ADDCO on bottom
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/sbrear.jpg

Mine (2nd gen OEM)
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_8042.jpg

You can see how the "bell" part on mine is much smaller and won't clear the elocker actuator.

Scuba

11-23-2008, 05:38 PM

Congrats you got everything buttoned up....

Why not just leave the sway bar off...You aren't going to be pulling any high speed james bond manuvers are you ?

slosurfer

11-23-2008, 05:48 PM

Just driving around here, I could tell a huge difference even with just how it reacted to a crosswind. I'd hate to drive mountain rodes with it leaning like that. Also, I tow a M416 trailer, and the swaybar helps keep the 4runner steady if the trailer starts whipping. The other reason is that, it is small enough and the 4runner heavy enough,that it isn't noticeable when on the trail flexing. It doesn't limit my flex like the front did.

Oh and yes, I do James Bond moves out at the dunes and desert. :flipoff: High speed stuff will be scary with no rear swaybar.

Robinhood4x4

11-23-2008, 07:17 PM

Good idea about putting the sensor up against metal. That didn't occur to me because I wanted my ABS computer to think there was something wrong and go into default mode which is to deactivate the ABS. I didn't know what would happen if it thought the gears were staying still but the speedo said it was moving. Maybe it would activate the abs and I wouldn't be able to stop, but it sounds like it still works.

Regarding feeling the difference in the 5.29s...try going into 4 low and you'll feel it pulls harder at idle. You have to press the brakes a tad more to keep it from rolling.

If you think it's squirrelly now, try jacking it up 6 more inches with super soft leaf springs and driving to mammoth a couple times. You get used to it.

corax

11-24-2008, 06:06 AM

Gravity bleeding sounds like my cup o' tea. :)

So, you basically do it just like normal, minus the bored looking wife in the driverseat?

Exactly :D Once you get started, you'll see how it works - hell, you can even walk away or work on something else (like that beer in the fridge) while it's doing it's thing - just make sure to look at the reservoir every few minutes to make sure it's not low

slosurfer

11-24-2008, 07:21 AM

Keith, just so I get this straight, are you bleeding all the bleeder valves at once or opening(bleeding) the valves in the regular order (i.e. only one open at a time)?

Nevermind, just googled it. One at a time. :D

slosurfer

11-29-2008, 09:47 AM

Keith, the gravity bleeding worked great. It didn't take long either, since we got most the air out when we used the pump method before. I could see how it would take forever if we hadn't done that before. Thanks, I don't think I could have got April back out there. She complained about her leg being sore the next day from pumping so much. :laugh:

Thanks to Sean and Bob, for hooking me up with the elocker harness. :thumbup: Sean did a great job on it and other than a little mess up on my part, it worked flawlessy. Can't wait to give it a good test run. Thanks guys!

slosurfer

11-29-2008, 01:26 PM

Switch :D

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_8052.jpg

Blue Led that lets me know the locker is engaged and will stand out from the red lights on the other switch.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/elocker/IMG_8063.jpg

Marc P

11-30-2008, 05:46 PM

That is sweet Chris....I turned mine on this weekend just for the cool factor....didnt need it, just made climbing the rock hills at Coyote Canyon super easy.

slosurfer

11-30-2008, 07:29 PM

I played with it some today. I went up to Prewitt Ridge up the coast and looped back down to Hwy 1 via North Coast Ridge Rd. It was nothing tough, just NF roads with awesome views of the Big Sur Coast. I did a bunch of it in 2wd with the locker on just because I could. :laugh:

I did a bunch in 4wd Hi and Lo to get a feel for the Aussie Locker. It was smoother than I thought it would be. Definately have to drive slightly different, but after a couple minutes I had it down. It would unlock just fine on the tight switchbacks. Only bummer is, the front diff started to leak from the passenger side short shaft. I knew I should have replaced that oil seal, it didn't look all that great when I had the diff apart. :chair: Looks like I'll be pulling that cv again and get that short shaft out. I think I can do it all with the diff still installed. (errr... I hope :) )