Swapping out roof rack rails...?

[cros]

Id like to swap out the OEM rails on my Runner but not sure how to do it..

i saw this pic over on yotatech that describes what Im talking about:

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e352/BearJake/November07FalknerCanyonRun071.jpg

is it as simple as taking out the old ones and putting in the new ones? anyone done it before? TIA.

[Rock Slide]

Id like to swap out the OEM rails on my Runner but not sure how to do it..

is it as simple as taking out the old ones and putting in the new ones?

Meaning, you just want to remove the 2 load bars and install a Yakima rack like Jake has done? If so then, YES....it's as easy as removing the old ones and installing the new ones.

Just unbolt the caps at either end of the 2 roof rails running from front to back of the roof, loosen your load bars and everything will just slide out. The caps are held in place by star head type bolts. Everything else can be removed by hand.

[4x4mike]

Go to Yakima's website and look at what they offer for your year of 4runner. For me the newest and greatest "foot" isn't the only one that works on the rail. I ended up getting the non locking railrider because they can be found for cheap and they have a lower profile than the newer models. They are secured to the rail with torx screws and metal inserts that slide in the factory roof rails.

[cros]

thanks. i talked to some guys over at REI today and was able to price out a Thule setup

[4x4mike]

What are you going to use the rack for? If you are going to accessorize it with Yakima or Thule components check them out. You can use one on another, in most cases, but in my opinion Yakima is better. I worked at REI for 9 years and I had more problems and complaints with Thule over Yakima. The Thules are nice for newer VW's and Volvos but that's as far as I'd go. I personally like the Yakima ski and bike mounts over any brand.

The Thules use square bars that have a tendency to bend. I see a lot of bent bars around town. Go to craigslist and find some "rail rider 1's"- you won't find those at REI as they have not been made for at least 5 years, some bars and accessories. If you're buying a rack new for full price you're paying too much.

[cros]

What are you going to use the rack for? If you are going to accessorize it with Yakima or Thule components check them out. You can use one on another, in most cases, but in my opinion Yakima is better. I worked at REI for 9 years and I had more problems and complaints with Thule over Yakima. The Thules are nice for newer VW's and Volvos but that's as far as I'd go. I personally like the Yakima ski and bike mounts over any brand.

The Thules use square bars that have a tendency to bend. I see a lot of bent bars around town. Go to craigslist and find some "rail rider 1's"- you won't find those at REI as they have not been made for at least 5 years, some bars and accessories. If you're buying a rack new for full price you're paying too much.




im planning on carrying a large kayak and a cargo basket.

ill check out the railrider today. also, what size crossbars do you recommend?

[4x4mike]

Thule uses their bars, kind of like a rectangle, and Yakima uses theirs, round. If you buy a Thule foot you have to use a Thule bar and vise versa.

[cros]

ok, it turns out that i already had half of the pieces needed (bars and fairing) from my last car...so i went ahead a bought the rest tonight. planning on putting everything on tomorrow :)

[4x4mike]

Cool, it sounds like you didn't have to spend that much.

[Bob98SR5]

cros,

i cant tell if you're going with thule or yakima, but i'll give you advice on other stuff:

removing the end caps to slide in your new "feet". Unbolt the first 2 or 3 Torx screws with a #24 or #25. I can't remember which, its been too long. Watch carefully: unbolt it but watch the end cap carefully. The tab of the end cap slides into the rail. if you unbolt it about 1/2 way, you can slide it out very easily. If you unbolt ti all the way, it might snap. i've read that it has happened. Do the same for the other end cap.

After you've removed the rail, clean the area and wax it. Also, it would not hurt to dab a little silicone sealer around the holes. I've read that some owners have had water seep through these holes and into the cabin's A-pillar and onto the floor. Just do it, trust me, i've read this problem one too many times.

At this point, you can slide the feet through the rail channel. Screw down the torxs about 1/2 way, slide on both end caps and then screw down the rest of the way.

Thule vs Yakima: I've had my Thule bars since 1990. Same ones! There's been a lot of stuff on it and no issues. They are 48" long. Any longer is great if you have wide stuff

[cros]

thanks for the tip, bob. i guess ill be holding off on installing them for today. im planning on installing my lift in the next couple weeks at my brothers shop. i guess ill install the bars then.

i went with thule just because i already had half of the parts needed from my previous car. plus i got 20% off what i bought last night from REI :clap:

[Bob98SR5]

which feet did you go with? the old style 416's are my favorite b/c they are 1 piece
a sooo much more cheaper if you can find them on ebay

[cros]

i went ahead with the 430 Tracker II and TK1 setup. Wasn't too bad with the discount i got from REI.

BTW, can you explain alittle more the best way to apply the silicone? Do I apply it around the screw after screwing the tab back down, or someway else?