Running 285s with stock wheels and 4.375 bs, the ins and outs

[neliconcept]

Since I just traded up wheels with Ric and gave him my trd ivan stewarts, im back at the stock wheels and the a arm control issue.

The thing is, if you have long ome shocks like I do and your upper arms touch the coil when fully dropped a 1/4 spacer is still going to have the side lugs hitting the arm even at full droop. Did some minor shaving and they barely touch but it still happens. Mud terrains will give this issue more problems then lets say a nitto or bfg all terrain as their side lugs are a bit smaller and dont stick out such as bfg, firestone, and gy mtrs do.

if you have stock wheels I would definitely not suggest a 1/2 inch spacer as it will give you hardly any thread on the lugs to work with. Either some 1 inch wheel adapters, minorly shaved arms and 1/4 spacer, or full shaved arms from Steve or Ric with no spacer to help out with this issue.

Brian (wabfab) also has some 1 inch and up wheel adapters which will end up being my plan to eleviate this annoying vibration I have with these 1/4 spacers I have.

I hope the mods think that this info is of somewhat help to some. if not then feel free to delete it.

Thought I could help

Blake (neliconcept

[ADH8796]

No Blake good info I'm sure this will be helpful to someone wanting to run OEM wheels with a new lift and tires.

[Ric]

Blake, i never had any vibrations when i ran them wonder whats causing that ? Steve sells the shaved arms, look into that also, or do the wabfab spacers, either one will woek, and work for ever, lol

[neliconcept]

I think im gonna go with 1 inch adapters since it should put the wheels out to where the trds were.

[Seanz0rz]

yea i had to go with 16x8 with 4.5 inch backspace to clear mine, and it appears that when i fully air down they rub a tiny bit on occasion, nothing to worry about though.

[d0ubledown]

oem BS is ~4.75...not 4.375. go with 1" spacer...no need to go wider than necessary.

[neliconcept]

from the parts its 4.375, where did you get 4.75 from?

[d0ubledown]

i measured it! ;) where did you get 4.375 from?

if 4.375 were the backspace...then it would fit no problems. remember..the higher the backspace, the less the wheel will stick out.

i think ric had slightly shaved stock arms with 1/4" spacers..? at least thats what i gathered from before...

[neliconcept]

remember that oem wheels are 16x7 and not 16x8, You measured the wrong thing, I got my info from three different parts areas at three different dealerships.

[Cheese]

The only person who sells truly SHAVED arms is Sonoran Steel. There is a large bit a metal strategically removed to run 35's. There is cutting, removal and reconstruction.

Wheel spacers are a pain on the front when they are of appreciable size. You are introducing another failure point, moving the wheel away from the bearings and adding scrub radius to an otherwise fine truck.

If you are going to run stock wheels and 285s, get shaved arms, the right wheels or a new plan.

[neliconcept]

so wheel spacers will do what? Im just confused now. Ive heard of a lot of ppl running 1 inch adapters front and rear. I wouldnt go bigger then an inch and the inch put me where my trds would be plus those trds never did rub inless fully stuffed and then it barely rubbed.

I just need a starter plan, because now Ive already figured out im long traveling the runner anyways. then their wont be an issue.

[YotaFun]

I would like to know a little more on this topic as well.

I will be doing a
Toytec 3" OME Coil Lift
&
4Crawler 2" BL

And I wanted to run the 285s on my stock wheels.
But after reading some of this thread I am confused.
Should I be saving for a rim with a different backspacing so I can clear the A-Arm?

[d0ubledown]

remember that oem wheels are 16x7 and not 16x8, You measured the wrong thing, I got my info from three different parts areas at three different dealerships.


i measured from my stock spare steelie, which is the same measurements as the oem wheel on my 98 split 3 spoke...16X7. there was another thread on the other site regarding this. have a look at this post (http://www.yotatech.com/showpost.php?p=50468667&postcount=8) specifically the edit...or even the whole thread.

since you've got an alloy spare...take the measurement and report back. dont listen to what people say on the net..and at part stores. only way to find out is to check yourself...thats what i did.

[Cheese]

The problem is backspacing and arm clearance.

A 13" 4Crawler bodylift with OME 888's will not clear with 285's on stock wheels with stock arms.

Spacers move the mounting surface away from the intended surface, obviously. They add to the lever on the bearings.

They also introduce a chance for vibrations. These years should be hubcentric. I know of two places that make hub centric spacers. They are not cheap, quick and dirty.

[neliconcept]

Sonny: I just measured and I got 4.4, maybe the 3 split spokes are different but i dont have the split spokes I have the 5 stars

[neliconcept]

oh yeah this will delete a lot of rubbing up front

http://www.glassworksunlimited.com/shop/image.php?productid=57

will be the first mod of my LT kit as I piece it together

and right now the tires only rub at full droop, and it droops too far as the upper hits the coil which shouldnt happen.

[YotaFun]

oh yeah this will delete a lot of rubbing up front

http://www.glassworksunlimited.com/shop/image.php?productid=57

will be the first mod of my LT kit as I piece it together

and right now the tires only rub at full droop, and it droops too far as the upper hits the coil which shouldnt happen.



That looks sooooo nice...

[Cheese]

I would like to partially nip this in the bud.

A picture of a purple truck will not help clearance issues.

Either we turn back to having technical merit in this post or I start deleting things, OK?

Why will that pic help?
What options are there?
How are you dealing with this?

[YotaFun]

I would like to partially nip this in the bud.

A picture of a purple truck will not help clearance issues.

Either we turn back to having technical merit in this post or I start deleting things, OK?

Why will that pic help?
What options are there?
How are you dealing with this?


Maybe he was trying to get at how a long travel suspension set up, don't have the rubbing issues associated with a stock set up.

May actual pictures of how a long travel suspension does not have rubbing issues like the stock IFS does, and how this possible set up is a option to keeping the stock rims?

Just i guess thats just ideas I got from the picture...?

[Cheese]

I know the answer here.

It is just not worth tech space to say well, my tires rub something significant, I wish I could fix it, but here is something cool, oops I'm done.

[neliconcept]

talking about the fenders. sorry i didnt make that clear

[neliconcept]

and maybe i should just quit this forum if i dont have any technical merit to offer. seems like im not welcome

[Cheese]

You are welcome.

I have met you.

You know I am not a jerk in real life.

Those fenders will not give you more clearance between the arm and the wheel.

You started on the right track and I am helping you stay focused.

[Cebby]

Are you measuring the backspacing properly? It's from the mounting surface of the wheel to the furthest part out on the outer lip of the wheel (no the flat where the wheel weights are)

http://resources.coker.com/wheel-tech/wheel-installation/how-do-i-measure-my-wheels-backspace.html

[neliconcept]

Are you measuring the backspacing properly? It's from the mounting surface of the wheel to the furthest part out on the outer lip of the wheel (no the flat where the wheel weights are)

http://resources.coker.com/wheel-tech/wheel-installation/how-do-i-measure-my-wheels-backspace.html


ill measure again tomorrow but I did just that and got 4.38 something close to 4.4 which is why they say 4.375. though it being 16x7 put its closer in then a 16x8 wheel with 4.5

I know Adrian. Just feel like im getting things from all different directions. right now the wheel with the 1/4 spacers is fine. When it rubs, it shouldnt rub, its due to the shocks overextending the arms which is why I guess I should change shocks out to the green tokicos, I remember Andy saying this before when he grenaded some CVs due to the fact.

I thought a 1 inch wheel adapter however wouldnt put too much stress on the front inless made bigger. that would give me the needed clearance and would keep me from rubbing the fenders as when I had the trd wheels.

However I still do have my front sway on and it limits up travel I think.

Upper arms are the answer but 100 from Ric is the cheapest you will see them and as you stated they are only for running stock wheels and 285s, not running 315s.

Its a confusion, I want to run the TC or camburg setup sooner then later and I just want something to eleviate the issue for only a set amount of time.

[localmotion]

what exactly do you want to do with your truck? Is it a street queen? Do you want to LT it? Is it a daily driver used for some light to moderate wheeling???

you had a solution by getting the 16x8 with 4.5 but you decided to get rid of the wheels to buy 16x7 w/4.375 which in my opinion was a stupid choice....unless you are going to widen them and bead lock them just like charles did.

Now with taht being said, yes you can get new shocks and not have them overexted, or you can buy limiting straps.

I thought sway bars help with articulation and not limit up travel? If anything I would think it limits down travel, but I may be wrong.

[Cheese]

The arms Ric sells are not the same as the arms Sonoran Steel sells.

The amount of steel that needs to be removed is significant.

Sonoran Steel has a proven product for solving this problem if you wheel the truck.

Even a standard upper arm from Inland Trucks or Total Chaos, not the full LT kit, could help clearance.

You are welcome here and are making a cont, lets make it all the way to contribution!

[neliconcept]

Matt. My runner was and never will be a street queen, yes its a 2wd but I think im one of those few guys that wheels a 2wd but to the limits and knows the set limit and doesnt break whatever

Adrian yeah I have been thinking about some aftermarket

Camburg
ATS
Inland
Donahoe
Total Chaos
All Pro

good arms

I didnt tell this to anybody before, I did have my truck in a rally race 3 months ago up in Clemson SC, their were some truggies and buggies and crap in the class that I was in. I was running 8th but I destroyed spindle. My bro also entered in our 1997 subaru impreza that we built up and he won his class.

I like driving fast and Id like to do some offroad racing. I also want to be able to get places for my expeditions and traveling. (which is why Id need 4wd with LT)

as far as contributions, I dont think I have really made any to this thread

[Bighead]

FYI...ATS went out of business a couple of years ago. Inland Trucks was still selling their design last I saw. The ATS-type arms would help with the clearance issue but they did create a new problem with the upper balljoint. I had the original ATS arms but now have the Sonoran Steel shaved arms. Since the swap I have had zero problems.

[neliconcept]

FYI...ATS went out of business a couple of years ago. Inland Trucks was still selling their design last I saw. The ATS-type arms would help with the clearance issue but they did create a new problem with the upper balljoint. I had the original ATS arms but now have the Sonoran Steel shaved arms. Since the swap I have had zero problems.


I didnt know that, thanks for the info. I gotta figure out why Im vibrating at 50mph though. its kinda annoying. I think I need to put the front wheels on again and star the lugs slowely (spacers)

[Bighead]

FYI...ATS went out of business a couple of years ago. Inland Trucks was still selling their design last I saw. The ATS-type arms would help with the clearance issue but they did create a new problem with the upper balljoint. I had the original ATS arms but now have the Sonoran Steel shaved arms. Since the swap I have had zero problems.


I didnt know that, thanks for the info. I gotta figure out why Im vibrating at 50mph though. its kinda annoying. I think I need to put the front wheels on again and star the lugs slowely (spacers)

When was the last time they were balanced?

[localmotion]

you put your 4runner in a rally race? Wow.

[neliconcept]

FYI...ATS went out of business a couple of years ago. Inland Trucks was still selling their design last I saw. The ATS-type arms would help with the clearance issue but they did create a new problem with the upper balljoint. I had the original ATS arms but now have the Sonoran Steel shaved arms. Since the swap I have had zero problems.


I didnt know that, thanks for the info. I gotta figure out why Im vibrating at 50mph though. its kinda annoying. I think I need to put the front wheels on again and star the lugs slowely (spacers)

When was the last time they were balanced?


me and Ric traded wheels at tires plus in Colorado and im assuming that they had them balanced when we had them swapped

[neliconcept]

you put your 4runner in a rally race? Wow.


thats why i didnt tell anyone because of comments like that

[oly884]

you put your 4runner in a rally race? Wow.


thats why i didnt tell anyone because of comments like that


I think it's cool that you did it, don't get me wrong, but you're going to be needing a lot more along the suspension lines than just some new upper's. You have larger huevos than I do for that type of racing, but I think what is trying to be said is that if you're going to play, it's 100x better to do it with the right equipment.

If you are into the rally race scene, take a look at total chaos. Ditch the tire carrier, get some coilovers for the rear, roof rack should be gone... see where I'm going? Not trying to rip on you at all, but if you're going to do that stuff, I'd really suggest doing it proper. This is the reason I don't do much, if I can avoid it, rock crawling with my truck. I have no lift, I have no lockers, and me attempting to do so will most likely result in me breaking things.

[neliconcept]

David yeah thats the plan, most ppl have suggested uppers but im going full TC or Camburg LT.

However Im not sure if im gonna cage the inner or not and throw a linked rear with coilovers through the bed. Carrier will go but I will get some way to put a tire mount on a new bumper.

kinda like Lance and bruces setup except with 33s.

and to all im sorry for getting a little snappy. just not my weekend due to issues with my classes and a printing press screwing up a print for my class i did not have on time.

[oly884]

No problem dude, I understand.

I understand where you want to go with the truck, but as you found out, speed + off road = expensive. And there's 2 ways it can be expensive.

1 is by repairs

2 is by buying the right equipment

I can tell you what I'd rather spend the money on, but I don't think it needs explaining. The other thing to consider is weight. Weight is not friendly if one chooses to race, so keep that in mind when looking for a rear bumper.

[neliconcept]

I could always build some rack for the cargo area and take the tailgate off when I race like the donahoe FJ lol

[localmotion]

Blake,

It seems that you have been flip-flopping from one idea to another. My advice is for you to decide what you want your t4r (haha bob) to do and figure out which is most financially feasible.

I suggest you read, read some more, do some calculations, read some more, and read more then make your decision. Until then, dont go doing crazy things your 4runner cant handle and be safe.

[neliconcept]

LT is the final decision. Im still going to design a roof rack but am i going to build one? no will I end up getting a trailer? yes. Im looking to build a big happy medium for this thing. LT + trailer + maybe 4wd conversion is what Im going for. What Id like to do is SAS, is it nearly impossible on my vsced runner? what I have been told by those of whom know what they are talking about and I dont even know how to wheel an SAS anyways so that would be pointless.

I like to drive fast, that bmw pretty much instilled it in me. I want to be able to handle some 40 50mph speeds in the dezert. but be able to handle fireroads with a trailer to do overland safaris.

thats my goal, hope it kinda clears things up

[Cheese]

Now that we have gone way afield...

It sounds like what would be best for what you want to do now is get a 2k Runner with 4wd.

When Casey did his 4wd conversion, it was bolt and go. You have a million dragons to slay.

When Schaefer did an axle swap, it was foreign ground, but his truck is not a Christmas tree.

Doing what you want with what you have is going to result in such a basket case truck or something that is so obscenely expensive, any potential gain will be entirely negated.

Despite the depth of modification on my truck, the only thing that does not work is ABS and that is because of a mistake I made when I broke something, not because of compromises.

[bamachem]

stock toyota 4runner, tacoma, and tundra 16" ALLOY wheels are 16"x7" with 4.375" of backspacing.

wait, you want to do an SAS to a truck that you want to go fast in the desert in? seriously man, you're out in left field on that one. this is left field for the original topic, but this needs some clarification...

MUD = IFS or SAS, but you want lightest weight possible and the most horsepower and tons of ground clearance, but not much suspension travel is needed. lockers are a plus.

SAND = fast running means IFS (high-speed stability), light weight and tons of horsepower, and tons of suspension travel (soak up the bumps), but ground clearance isn't as much of a requirement as long as you have the wheels in the sand and the power to make them turn. lockers are a plus, but not a requirement until you get stuck.

CRAWLING (rocks, roots, trails, etc) = IFS is OK, but SAS is better. that is due to the additional travel, weight distribution characteristics, and most importantly, the durability of a SAS vs IFS. lockers are more of a must than anything else, then you want ground clearance, then finally you want travel, in that order. you also need to keep the center of gravity as low as possible to keep from rolling. to do that, you use big tires w/ a minimal lift and the strongest drivetrain (w/ the lowest horsepower/torque) possible. that's the best for crawling.


also, to do ANYTHING for a 4WD conversion, do yourself a favor and sell the 2WD and buy a 1996-1998 SR5 4WD and start with that - if you go LT IFS or SAS, that will be easier all the way around.

[neliconcept]

Andy I said that was an option but not for racing. an option to the truck

I know how SAS works in dezert compared to LT IFS

IF i sell this im loosing a looot of money, more money then it would for me to do anything else. That is highly not an option.

back on topic

If one was to have limited down travel and the upper arm did not hit the coil, then a 1/4 spacer gives a little leway of no rubbing the tire on stock wheels. Thats what I have noticed and thats what Im stickin with for now.

[garrett]

Andy I said that was an option but not for racing. an option to the truck

I know how SAS works in dezert compared to LT IFS

IF i sell this im loosing a looot of money, more money then it would for me to do anything else. That is highly not an option.

back on topic

If one was to have limited down travel and the upper arm did not hit the coil, then a 1/4 spacer gives a little leway of no rubbing the tire on stock wheels. Thats what I have noticed and thats what Im stickin with for now.


why do you think you would lose so much money selling it? take it back to stock and transfer all your mods to a 4wd.... you'll probably make money if anything...

[Cheese]

You have a pretty stock truck, as odd as that is to say.

All the stuff you have bolted on, you can bolt off.

The next level of modification marries you to that truck, it will never be sellable.

This is why I used the Casey example. His truck is a mutant, but it gained value and is not a basketcase.

[neliconcept]

Andy I said that was an option but not for racing. an option to the truck

I know how SAS works in dezert compared to LT IFS

IF i sell this im loosing a looot of money, more money then it would for me to do anything else. That is highly not an option.

back on topic

If one was to have limited down travel and the upper arm did not hit the coil, then a 1/4 spacer gives a little leway of no rubbing the tire on stock wheels. Thats what I have noticed and thats what Im stickin with for now.


why do you think you would lose so much money selling it? take it back to stock and transfer all your mods to a 4wd.... you'll probably make money if anything...


I know why you think id be better off selling, but y'all dont realize, me trading in or selling mine outright takes a loot of time, then I have to find one of the year that I think appropriate aka 2000, near the same miles, id have to find new tires to go back to stock so I can keep the 285s I have now. Id loose a truck that I have had maintained perfectly, and buy one that I dont know how it was treated properlly.

You all dont realize its not as easy as you all think.

however... Adrian if you were willing to help me find such a truck out in Colorado and we be able to transfer all my mods over to that one. Then I would consider it and its still in the back of my mind,

Hell I tried to go to this dealer for a 99 elocked sport edition runner and the guy didnt want to help with the trade plus it got sold the next day.

I'll keep it in mind and if anyone would help me out I may consider, its just a lot of work for me to try and i think id be making a mistake.

[garrett]

You all dont realize its not as easy as you all think.

I do realize. I've done it. It is as easy as I think.

Started with a 99 Ltd 2WD, bought 98 SR5 4WD, swapped mods, sold 2WD, spent excess money on more mods.

What is your rush?

[localmotion]

only fools rush in

[neliconcept]

only fools rush in


uhhhh what?

Garrett, how long and what did you end up getting to get the 98, i dont have resources to just get another loan to get a 99 or 2k and then wait to sell the 01

[localmotion]

ok, do the LT and do the 4wd conversion. When you have tons of problems and spend a lot more than you have to, come back here and read this thread.

It seems like you have made up your mind as to what you want to do. Good luck. Hope you get your wheel problem fixed.

[neliconcept]

alright, tell me how im going to turn it back to stock, sell my 4runner by putting in another 600 dollars for stock tires, cut off my sliders, pull my rear diff out and return the locked rear to stock open, pull out body lift, tjm, all the suspension, the interior speakers and find stock speakers, lets see what else, not to mention my entire exhaust setup, engine mods, and so much more,,, oh yeah and find a new set of wheels because I like the wheels im on.

Im not against this idea, if it was easy id be all over it, however yall think its easy but it isnt.

[calrockx]

figure out how to properly SAS an 01/02 so if my time for that comes years from now all the bugs will be worked out :thumbup:


you'll need a good amount of patience if you're gonna sell the 2wd for a 4wd. keep an eye out for deals, do as much of the work as you can on your own, and in a year or so you might just be driving a 4wd 4runner.

[neliconcept]

well im looking now, and most likely ill look out in colorado when I do. They seem to have taken everybodys elocked runner and sold them in colorado.

[neliconcept]

gonna go check this one out

going more off topic

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=218901374&dealer_id=85323&car_year=2000&search_type=both&num_records=25&make=TOYOTA&keywordsfyc=&transmission=&distance=200&model=4RUN&address=24060&make2=&advanced=&default_sort=priceDESC&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=&sort_type=priceDESC&min_price=&first_record=26&body_code=0&end_year=2000&color=&keywordsrep=&start_year=1996&drive=&pager.offset=25&engine=&doors=&style_flag=1&fuel=&cardist=196

[oly884]

Well, how much more time do you have in school?

How much time do you think it'd take to do a 4wd conversion on your runner, and how much of that time would the vehicle be in a state where you could not drive it?

Would you do the conversion yourself, or would you have a shop do it? If a shop, what's the hourly rate do you think they'd be charging (From what I've seen, it's at the min. $50/hr)

Would selling the truck as-is be out of the question? Starting over would seem to be the better or decisions at this point, but I'm not you. You've done a lot to the truck, but if you're wanting a 4wd, you will, without a doubt, loose more time/money or both trying to convert a 2wd 4runner into a 4wd 4runner.

My suggestion would be to take the easy stuff off, and sell it, then buy a 4wd and start over. You're young, you have plenty of time to do things to a vehicle, not to mention you're still in school, why not wait to go "all out" till you have a well paying job as well as a steady income?

Why am I saying this? Because I went through all this crap before as well, looking back, there are some things that I'm glad I did, but there are some things that I'm not so glad I did. However, I didn't do 99% of the things I said I was going to do because of money and time. Now that I'll be done with school in a month, I'll be able to have more time to do these things that I've talked about. Money is still an issue though.

Sit down, go through the cost of what every thing you're wanting to do is going to cost you. Converting to 4wd, I don't even want to guess. If you're going to have a shop do it, there is no way you will save money by doing that instead of buying a 4wd. If you're going to do it yourself, figure out how long it'd take you, and factor in friends driving you around or renting a car.

As the saying goes patience is a virtue.

[neliconcept]

as far as being out of commission, like selling my 4runner first then looking for another one, I might be able to do so when I head to Colorado State, I'll be living on campus and I could ride my bike to a place or something, or if some of the CO guys were willing, i could hitch a ride a few times.

[garrett]

IMO the CHEAPEST option is to buy a 4WD, swap mods, then sell your 2WD.

the FASTEST option would be to sell yours as is, buy a 4WD.

it's almost summer, you will have more free time, no?

i'm not sure what you were asking me in your previous post... how long and what did i get... huh?

[neliconcept]

how long did it take to sell yours and what did you do, sell it first or buy the 4wd first,

my only option may be an education loan but id have to figure out how to sell the 2wd in a month

[garrett]

bought the 4WD first.

probably took about 2 months to sell, and i think a big part of that was that the tires were so low. everyone likes nice new tires with their new car...

[mastacox]

Hmm, this thread has some interesting arguments going on, here's my take:

1) Yes, it will probably be better to find a 4wd and then swap your crap over to the 4wd and sell the 2wd; but I definitely see where you're coming from with the no money to buy a second vehicle option. Problem is, saving up enough to buy an entire long travel kit is ALMOST as much as buying another 4runner anyway, so I would say plan on saving and buying the 4wd when you've got the money. IMO you could probably leave the e-locker on the 2wd if the 4x4 comes with one, or you could swap it between vehicles if it doesn't. EDIT: Oops, forgot it's a lockrite not an e-locker. Still, it's easier to sell a rig without the lunchbox I think...

2) For the tire thing, it's no problem, because the 4wd will COME with tires that will bolt straight on to your current 4Runner. So just swap your off-road mods (including tires) to the 4wd, and swap the tires off of the 4wd to the 2wd.

So basically, you could save up enough for a long travel or a little more, but then use that money to buy a 4wd, take a few weeks to x-fer stuff over, and then sell the 2wd and you have your lt money back (depending on how much the 2wd goes for). Overall, I think having a truck that came with 4wd will be a better (read: more reliable) setup than one that had it swapped in, but hey I could be wrong on that.

[mastacox]

Now, as for LONG TRAVEL!!!

I too am going to go long travel on my 4Runner (let's trade ideas about some time when you're chillin' in CO), but I'm already 4x4. Keeping 4x4 is a must for me, because I am aiming for a desert-bomber/trail ride rig (actually, I think I'm aiming for almost exactly what you are, how convenient). Here are some issues I've been thinking long and hard about:

1) Air Bumps, yay or nay? I'm thinking I want them, because the fiance's going to want to be able to jump the rig. Happily, the Camburg kit can have them integrated into the setup, and adding them in the rear should be cake compared to the front... I just need to make sure the Camburg can retain 4WD with extended shafts.

2) How to help the rear suspension geometry keep up with the front? This is actually a very big problem that I've been rolling around in my mind. One thing I don't like with the stock setup is the panhard bar, because as the axle droops/stuffs it moves to one side or another. I get the feeling this will be a problem if you're stuffing or drooping very quickly, like when jumping, and I would be much happier if the axle was able to puerely move up and down. For the solution I'm thinking custom 3-link wishbone. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not too concerned with doing the design work myself; problem is the wishbone would necessitate relocation of the gas tank (I think) so I may try putting a fuel cell in the stock spare location. This would also have the added benefit of helping front-rear weight distribution.

3) Rear Shock mounts. For a real desert bomber, the shocks need to be as effective as possible, which means they will need to be as straight up and down as as outboard as possible (I need to make a Wiki on shock geometry). Because the rear suspension is going to need at least 13" of travel to keep up with the front, I'm thinking I'll be stabbing them through the rear cargo area and attaching them to a custom frame-mounted roll-bar in the bed. Yes, it will take some cargo space but I think if done carefully I'll be able to minimize that issue. Obviously, there's isn't much going back once you go this far, so better be damn sure you're keeping the rig for a very long time (I will be). There might be other options but there are none as performance oriented as this.

4) Weight savings! Youre going to want your rig to be as light (relatively) as possible. In my opinion that means no sliders, no heavy rear bumper, etc... I'll be going minimalist tube bumpers front and rear, NO sliders, and wherever I need heavy-duty skids I'll be aiming for aluminum. This kind of thing comes at a price, but go-fast rigs don't need the ridiculous heavy armor that a rock crawling rig would. I hope to stay under 4300 curb weight with everything, maybe as low as 4000. I'll also be looking long and hard at the possibilty of alumuinum bumpers rather than steel, it's relatively easy to take a steel bumper design and make one that is just as strong using aluminum, so I might just do it. The only weight I'll be adding that isn't really "needed" for a desert racer is an 8-9000lb front winch, tucked as close to the radiator as possible.

5) LOW C.O.G.!!! My 4Runner is already lifted with a 3" suspension lift and a 1" body and I'm thinking that will be too high. I'll be aiming for 1.5-2" lift over stock suspension and 1" body with the LT setup. The lower your COG the less your body roll and acceleration/braking tilt will be. Since the LT gets rid of your front swaybar, this will mean a lot in terms of high speed stability. I'm definitely going to want the low and wide stance.

[bamachem]

You all dont realize its not as easy as you all think.


yeah, and i've done it too. i started w/ a 99 Limited 2WD, then bought a 99 Limited 4WD, but it didn't have a sunroof. i then got my current 99 Limite 4WD... yes, this is my THIRD 99 Limited. that was all in a 3-year timeframe too for all those purchases.

[neliconcept]

workin on that now, however this one doesnt have a sunroof but neither does my 01 so whatever, as longas I get 4wd and the rear window works.

[neliconcept]

Andy and Garrett, did yall have any mods to transfer over. do remember I have a loooot of crap I want to swap on to the new runner.

Looking at a black 2000 sport right now

only big problem I forsee is the slider scab plates, hendering taking the bodylift off since my bro stupidly flipped them upside down and hung them over the frame rails.

[neliconcept]

though since this is quite off topic

started new thread http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=854.new#new

do give me your opinions and whatever help yall can give me :)

thanks

[bamachem]

I didn't have many "mods" on the white 2WD, so it wasn't a biggie. The black one was stock. I bought it over the 'net and didn't know that it didn't have a sunroof until after I had already flown to Houston, TX to pick it up. I didn't realize that sunroofs were options on limiteds until then.

if you can - and this is what i did - buy another 4runner, then sell yours. you'll have a month or two of double payments if you finance, but it's worth it to have both of them there to swap stuff over. also, then you wouldn't have to buy anything. take the stock bumper, have it painted, and then swap it w/ the TJM. swap the lift and tires w/ the stock 4WD, then the other stuff. hell, even swap the interior pieces/parts if you like one better than the other. get ONE 4WD 4Runner just the way you want it, then sell the 2WD.

sliders? $200. no bigge. leave them and buy more. tires/lift? still just bolt on stuff. roof rack? c'mon, that takes 10 minutes to remove. what else do you have besides the rear locker? (and that only takes about 3 hours if you have both trucks sitting side-by-side to make the swap.)

[neliconcept]

bolt on stuff is no biggie, its the sliders, as if I was to sell this to my moms friend, i would have an issue with the scab plates

since they are over the frame rails, thats at least an 1/8th of an inch.

got any ideas how i could fix that, they are welded to the s### on the frame, i dont think they are coming out.

[bamachem]

cut the sliders from the scabs, hit the scabs w/ a sanding wheel and some rattle can, then cut some new scabs to use on the relocated sliders.

[neliconcept]

ill get a picture to show you what im talkin about, but the scabs are L shaped, the L is on upside down to where it sits on the top of the frame rail between the top of the frame and the body.

dunno if a sanding wheel is gonna do anything.

[bamachem]

my point is that you can't really do anything and shouldn't worry about it.

cut the sliders off, smooth out the area as much as possible, then put on a thick coat of rubberized undercoating and they'll never be seen.

[neliconcept]

not worried about them being seen, im worried about the body not touching the body mounts due to the top having like 1/8th inch over top of the frame mount. im guessing maybe a 1/8th body pucks that maybe Roger Brown could make.

i dunno

[bamachem]

i don't think the body is all that tight to the frame on a stock truck. i think it's about 1/2" clearance there or more IIRC.

[neliconcept]

thats good news, because these damn scab plates got me worried.

I may cut sliders off first, take body lift off, and put stock bumper on and run with suspension lift for a little bit, i shouldnt rub if im pavement pounding for a while

[emptypockets]

Hey everyone! Good to see so many familiar names on this forum! Wasn't this thread supposed to be about fitting 285's on stock wheels? I got all excited when I saw the title, but kept reading about this long travel stuff. Good luck with your quest neli!

BTW: IIRC, the backspacing on stock 5 spoke 16x7" JJ wheels is ~4.75".